What About Cost?

To build the dream garage I have described and illustrated in other articles, it will probably cost you between $35 and $45 per square foot (Actual Costs as of 1999) if you have a contractor do it for you. If you happen to be handy and can do lots of the work yourself, you might be able to get it done for about half of that.

If you do decide to build the garage yourself, you will need at least 6 people to help you tilt up the walls. The garage door wall should be built without the beam in place. It will be very hard to erect as it will be top heavy. Create the pocket for the beam and slide and fasten it in place after the wall is up and braced.

The beam over the garage door will need to be sized by an engineer. Its size depends on what type of trusses you decide to use. If you go with the attic storage trusses, be prepared for a slightly larger beam.

Exterior Surface?

If your budget starts to get tight, give vinyl siding a serious look. Be sure to look at the ones that are multi-colored. When viewed from a distance of 20 or more feet, they will usually fool most people into thinking you covered your garage with expensive cedar or redwood. Buy a siding that has passed the voluntary standards of the Vinyl Institute!

Companion Articles: Dream Garage Has Lots of Room, Dream Garage Illustrations, Ideal Garage Plans & Tips

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Ideal Garage Plans | Don't forget paint colors when it comes to garage planning ideas! Look at this stunning paint job. Did you see the cupola too? Copyright 2019 Tim Carter

Ideal Garage Plans - Make It Much Bigger

Tips for Creating Perfect Garage Plans

Who among us has not banged a car door into a bicycle or a garbage can once inside a garage? Or, are you guilty of scratching your car with a shovel or rake as you try to navigate the narrow spaces between your car and all of the other clutter inside your existing garage?

Do Most People Want to Enlarge Their Garages?

My guess is that most people - once they have moved into a house - would love to expand or enlarge their garage if given the chance. This column and bulletin set is for those people who have an opportunity to build a detached garage or possibly an attached garage of their dreams.

CLICK or TAP HERE for FREE BIDS from local garage builders.

Does the Perfect Garage Have Space for 3 Cars?

The perfect garage, in my opinion, does not have to be a 3 or 4 car monstrosity. If you have that many cars, well then, I guess you may be a candidate. If you are like most people, you might have two cars and just need some extra room to store things without being cramped.

What are the Perfect Interior Dimensions For a Garage?

Using my existing garage as a model, I have determined that a nearly perfect garage would have interior dimensions of 32 feet by 26 feet. The floor to ceiling height at the back wall of the garage would be a tad over 12 feet. As you approach the garage door from the back wall, the sloping concrete slab would cause this height to increase.

What is the Widest Single Garage Door?

The ideal door for two cars would be 18 feet wide by 8 feet tall. This is a standard sized door if you deal with most national brand garage door companies.

Is It a Good Idea to Install a Man Door?

It is a good idea to install a man door. This is a regular door you walk through when you just need to get yourself into the garage, not a car or truck.

It becomes a personal preference as to whether or not you install a standard-width access door for humans to enter the garage so that you don't have to raise and lower the garage door. Doors take up valuable wall space, but the overall convenience may be worth it. Windows provide lots of light, but they also take up valuable wall space and provide a way for strangers to view your possessions. Natural light can stream into the garage space if you install inexpensive but leakproof skylights. I happen to have had great success with Velux skylights. I have installed hundreds of them and they have never leaked.

CLICK or TAP HERE for FREE BIDS from local garage builders.

Should a Garage Have a Storage Loft?

The dream garage has loft storage within the garage for all of those boxes, seasonal decorations, and other possessions that might get damaged in excessively hot attics or in damp, musty basements. Since the garage slab will be installed over a high-performance vapor barrier, the interior of the garage will have humidity levels consistent with the outside air. Although the inside of the garage can get hot, it should not get as hot as an enclosed attic area.

The 12-foot-high walls allow you to build one or more six-foot high lofts that allow you to get under them and on them without having to bend over excessively.

Should I Use Garage Attic Storage Trusses?

If you have the need for extra storage space for items that can take extremes of heat and cold, then consider trying to fit attic storage trusses into your building budget. These handy trusses have a center area within the truss that does not contain any pesky cross members or webs.

Watch the following video. The trusses you see in the video were placed ON TOP of my daugther's garage creating a massive room.

The net effect once all of the trusses are in place is a cave-like space that is fairly wide open and allows you to easily store objects on the trusses themselves or a plywood floor you install. The bottom chord of the trusses is usually a 2 x 6 or a 2 x 8 so that it can take a considerable amount of weight. Visit a full service lumber yard or truss fabrication plant to see what these look like.

Companion Articles: Dream Garage Has Lots of Room, Dream Garage Illustrations, Garage Plans & Construction Costs

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Sample Sketches of Possible Seat Configurations

Here are a few sketches and details that may help you build a window seat. These are the same type of drawings I used to do while sitting at a prospective client's dining room table. Often, I would have to draw a detail to explain how I might do something. These worked then and I hope they work for you. (You are right - I didn't get an "A" in art class!)

A Simple Window Seat Plan

The following plan should help you visualize just how to build a simple window seat on a wall. The most important perspective, in my opinion, is the side view. This one actually shows you the structure of the window seat. Consider building a very simple small test seat in the place you are going to construct the real one. Make sure you like the height and depth of what you have in mind. To do this, all you need to do is nail a simple cleat on the wall and then sit a piece of plywood cut to the depth your seat will be. Support the front edge of the plywood with two simple 2x4 legs to get it level. The window seat needs to be right and comfortable or you are wasting your time. Building a simple window seat can be done in one day. Use small decorative moldings under the seat lip. Finishing the window seat may take you another 4 to 6 hours. It is a delightful project.

Remember, the width of the seat is a function of where you place it. The window trim often decides what the width will be. There is no standard. Keep in mind that plywood longer than 8 feet is a custom item and very expensive.

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Do you want to create a cozy spot to read a book, ponder the majesty of the autumn colors, watch snow fall, or listen to a rain shower? You often can't find a better place than a comfortable window seat. Window seats are classy, plain and simple.

Surprisingly Simple

If you possess the following basic carpentry tools, you can successfully build a simple window seat. Here are the tools I would gather for this project:

• 2 and 4 foot levels
• Power circular saw
• Tape measure
• Framing square
• Miter box and saw
• Drywall finishing tools
• Hammer
• Screwdrivers
• Painting Tools

These are very basic tools that many people have. The hardest part of the entire project, in my opinion, is cutting and fitting the top. All too often the space where the top fits is not perfectly square. You need to use the framing square to help you determine just how to cut each short edge to make the top fit snuggly in the wall recess.

Storage Access Options

Probably the easiest way to provide access to the area beneath the seat is to use stock kitchen cabinet fronts. I have found that the best size to use is the front face of a 15 inch high kitchen wall cabinet. You can often just order these without the sides, top or bottom of the cabinet. The trick is to find one or a combination of cabinet faces that will work for the width of your window seat. Once you have accomplished this, you simply install a 2x4 on its side at the front bottom of the window seat wall. The cabinet face will sit on top of this blocking. A 4 inch high baseboard will overlap onto the frame of the cabinet front and hide this rough lumber, giving a professional look to your job.

Front access to a window seat eliminates the detail work of building the flip-up seat. This can require a good degree of skill and patience.

Front access means you may have to get on your knees to retrieve items, but they will be clearly visible for the most part. Window seats with flip-up lids often become interior dumpsters. You have to remove all items to get to something on the bottom! There is no right or wrong way to provide access to a window seat storage area. It is a matter of personal preference.

Big Seats!

I think the largest window seat I constructed to date was one that is nearly 9 feet wide. It was a spectacular seat that was on a flat wall - one without a recess in the window area. The architect created the recess by placing the seat in between built-in bookshelves that flanked either side of the large window. A cabinet maker constructed all of the cabinets - an option you might consider - and the window seat came ready to install. The entire job of placing the seat,cabinet and top took about one hour! This method costs more money, but you grant ownership of 90 percent of the construction problems to the cabinet maker.

If you like flip up window seat lids, a cabinet maker will be able to help you locate slick hidden hinges that recess into edges of the flip lid and the seat edge. These hinges work best if you plan to have cushions on the window seat. Traditional hinges stick up above the surface of the seat and can tear cushion material.

Try to build a test window seat in another location of your house before you build the one all of your friends and neighbors will see. Refine your carpentry skills in a child's bedroom or perhaps another room. Good luck!

Click here for a cross section and details to build this window seat!

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Ten Speed Enhancement Tips

Car Design - NASCAR and Indy race teams know all about the importance of aerodynamics. The same principles apply to gravity race cars. If you want to go fast, the car needs minimal air resistance. As crazy as it sounds, a simple wedge shape car solves this problem. Don't forget to slant the back of the car so it doesn't drag when the car hits the bottom of the hill.

Wheels - The wheels provided in the standard kit are excellent. They are usually very round and free of defects. Check for burrs on the outer edges. I always enlarge the axle hole by 1/64th of an inch so that the wheel can rotate freely on the axle.

Axles - Alignment is critical. The car's axles must be parallel and in the same plane. If they are out of alignment, the car will ride on three wheels and/or one or more wheels may be in a bind. This obviously creates friction and friction slows the car.

Grind / Polish Axles - The axles supplied with the kits are simply nails. The underside of the nail head contacts the outer surface of the wheel as it spins on the axle. If you grind the head of the nail so it flares away from the nail shaft, this means there will be less friction where the nail head touches the wheel. Polish the nail shaft with emery cloth to reduce surface friction on the wheel shaft.

Balance - The weight of the car needs to be as balanced as possible. This eliminates concentrated loads on one or more wheels. Unbalanced cars are also unstable on the race track. If they hit a slight bump, an unstable car can jump off the track.

Car Weight - Most gravity cars cannot exceed 5 ounces. The car body, wheels, axles, etc. only weigh a little over 2 ounces. I prefer to add weight by using lead. I create a recessed area on the underside of the car with a router. The recess is usually 1.25 inches wide, 2 inches long and about 5/16ths inch deep. Use a torch to melt stick or roll solder.

To add the correct amount of lead, you need to place the completed car body and all of its parts onto an accurate scale. Begin to add solder until you get to 5 ounces. If the car is deemed overweight at the check-in, you can shave off lead from this area.

Be sure to undercut the recess area slightly so the lead doesn't fall out.

Graphite - Dry powdered graphite is a superb lubricant. I like to puff some in the axles, wheels and even on the sides of the car body. Apply it any place where one moving part touches a stationary object.

Inner Wheel Hubs - The wheels that come with the kit have squared off hub shafts. These rub against the car body when the wheels spin. If you shave these slightly to make them rounded, only a small portion of the hub will actually contact the car body. Less contact = less friction.

Wheel Tilt - When the axles are mounted to the car body, the axles need to be straight. If not, the wheels will be tilted slightly. Use a small diameter carpenter's nail set to lightly drive the axles so they bottom out in the axle groove.

Last Minute Weight - If your car is light at the weigh-in and you add weight, do so on top of the car. Never add weights on the bottom that might allow the weight to drag on the race course track.

Last Minute Lubrication - Be sure to take your tube of powdered graphite with you on race day if you decide to do trial runs down the track. Lubricate all axles before you turn your car in. Spin the wheels while puffing graphite on the axle shafts.

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The thrill of victory - the agony of defeat. Surely, you have heard those words spoken at the open of ABC's Wide World of Sports. If you want to see these emotions first hand, then attend a Girl or Boy Scout Pine Wood Derby! It is not uncommon to see alligator tears when a car doesn't win. Those children whose cars do win, jump and shout with glee!

Speed vs. Looks

This competitive event is as much for the parents as the kids I believe. Young scouts need lots of help to build the cars. As the kids get older, it is actually important for them to build their own. At the very least, the kids should always, always paint and decorate the cars themselves. Remember, it is their race, not the parents. But in some scout packs and troops, the leaders recognize that adults do build the cars. For this reason, they have a special race for cars built exclusively by adults.

Consider building a car for looks and creativity instead of speed. Different awards are often presented for looks.

Check the Rules

Certain race contests have certain rules. Some allow major modifications to the cars. Others allow minimal modifications. Never cheat. It simply is the wrong thing to do. If your child catches you, it sends a horrific message to them about you. Remember, no one wins any money!!! This is a kid's event, not the Daytona 500.

Lasting Memories

Building a car with your child should be a fun event. Don't ruin it by waiting to do it at the last moment. Start at least one week in advance, if possible to reduce stress. This past year both my son and daughter built cars with me. They had the best time coming up with the colors and painting on crude racing stripes. I am convinced that they will not forget the experience. One thing is for sure, they will not forget the loud hissing noise my plumbing torch makes as it melts the lead! It really frightened my son!

Display Stand

If your child stays in Scouts for a period of time, they will amass a collection of Pinewood Derby cars. My son already has four. Consider building some sort of stand to display the cars. Make sure you inscribe on the underside of each car the year they were built. You will be able to gauge progress in building skill and technique.

These derby cars are a fun project. Don't get too serious about it. Strive for fun! Who cares who wins the race. You are looking for an overall experience. The entire process is a great learning opportunity.

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Bookshelves in an Hour

This is a really fun project. How did I get the idea for it? It was a completely spontaneous thought. About five weeks ago, I was in Ft. Worth, Texas doing a television appearance. The public relations (PR) firm that hired me had scheduled a unique opportunity. A morning TV news show wanted me to be on the air for one and one-half hours doing a project. The plan was to introduce me at the top of the show and then cut back to me every 20 minutes or so to check on my progress. The PR guy thought it would be great if I built a window seat. I roared with laughter! That would take about 12 hours with a helper under perfect conditions!

Poplar Bookshelves Can Be Done in an Hour

This discussion took place while we were waiting at the airport luggage carousel. The TV appearance was to happen in less than 24 hours! After I stopped laughing, Jerry, the PR guy said, "Well, what else can we do?" I said, "Let me think about it as we drive to the hotel." I knew the project had to be simple and it had to pertain to what the viewers in Ft. Worth needed. They have no basements there, so space is at a premium. Bingo! A bookcase popped into my mind.

A Bookshelf Plan

Using a scrap piece of paper, I drew up the plan for the bookcase in about five minutes. Several thoughts drove the concept. I knew that the project had to be simple so that I could complete it in the allotted time while on TV. If I didn't finish it, then it would not be as simple as I said and my credibility would be challenged. The project also needed to be modular. This would save time and make it affordable. You probably can see now why I chose it to be 4 feet wide and 4 feet tall! To make a long story short, I completed it with about 6 minutes to spare and the TV hosts were amazed.

DIY Bookshelves in 90 Minutes

The key to success lies in making sure the pieces are cut square and that they are the exact lengths I prescribe. A 12 inch diameter power miter box is a perfect tool for this project.

Once all of the pieces are cut, start by attaching the top to the side legs. The top overlaps the legs. Use 4 nails at each end for this. Pre-drill the holes with a bit slightly smaller than the diameter of a nail. This will prevent splitting the top of the bookcase. Do not drill into the end grain of the side pieces.

The next step is to install the bottom shelf. It fits in between the two legs. It must be held up from the bottom edges of the legs so the toe kick board can fit below it. The bottom of the toe kick board MUST be flush with the sides. Failure to do this will cause major appearance problems!

Use Plywood to Make it Square

I like to square the bookcase up at this point. The easiest way to do this is by nailing on the plywood backing. Notice that one half inch is cut off the bottom of the plywood. This is done so that the legs support all of the bookcase weight. It also makes the bookcase more stable. Be sure you cut off the bottom of the plywood and not a side! Keep in mind that the backing looks best when the grain of the plywood is oriented up and down, not sideways. Once cut, place a factory edge of the plywood flush with the top of the bookcase. This task is simple if you lay the bookcase down on the floor. Place the best edges of the case facing down. Pay attention to what is at the top. The plywood should be flush with the sides or in just a tad. Sometimes, the plywood comes from the factory a hair over 48 inches. This is why the bookcase is actually 48 1/8 inches wide. Start nailing the top edge. Once this is complete, align one side so that the plywood is even or parallel with that side. Nail this side. I space the brass nails about 8 inches apart on the back. With one side and the top nailed, the bookcase will be squared automatically by the plywood. Nail the remaining edges at this time.

The top apron and toe kick boards are now put in place. Use two nails at each end to secure these boards. You are nearly complete!

The Finishing Touches

Cut the decorative molding to fit. The miter angles are simple 45 degrees. If you have 4d finish nails, use these to attach the molding. The 6d nails are a little too big for this.

The final step is to cut the shelf standards and then attach them. These can be easily cut with a hacksaw. Hold the standards in about 1 inch from the front and back edge. Pay attention when you cut them! Always cut from the same end or they will not work. Pay attention to the numbers on the standards to see what I mean.

This is all it takes, seriously. Once all of the wood is cut, the entire bookcase can be assembled by you in 1 hour or less. Be sure to use a nail set to countersink the nails. Sand it well before finishing it!

If you want the plans to build this wonderful bookcase simply click on Tim's Deluxe Bookcase.

I built this in one hour using simple tools.

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