Stained Glass Shops

Stained Glass Shops / Fabricators

Here is a partial list of stained glass shops that will assist in the design of a panel(s) for your door. Many, if not all, of these shops will build and ship the panels to you. This can be a problem if you don't measure accurately or if you misrepresent the conditions somehow.

You can protect yourself by making a template that fits the opening, and/or taking excellent close up photographs of the door profile so that you clearly communicate what you have. These shops know how to get the right information, you just want to make sure all of the bases are covered.

Don't hesitate to open your own Yellow Pages to see if there is a "Glass-Stained" heading. If so, visit the shops and see if they can build a custom panel for you.

  • Glass by Design
  • Custom Glass Doors
  • Alpine Stained Glass
  • Beveled Glass Designs
  • Wayne Cain Architectural Art Glass
  • Art Glass Works
  • Kessler Studios
  • Shadetree Studios Inc.
  • Stained Glass Overlay
  • Williams Stained Glass

Column B336

Exterior Door Design: Decorative Glass Doors

Exterior Door

There has been a significant shift in exterior door design over the past five years. When I go to the huge International Builders Show each year, the door manufacturers all have their new door designs on display. More and more all you see is decorative glass in the doors. There are several reasons for this. First, they simply look splendid. Second, they allow more light to enter what can often be a dark space. Finally, I believe that the door designers are borrowing from the past. It was common to have glass in doors 100 years ago.

My First Two Houses

The first two homes my wife and I owned both had glass in the entryway. The first house was built in the 1920s and actually had a full lite door. This is a door that has one enormous glass panel approximately 28 inches wide by 6 feet tall! It was plain glass but I suspect it was leaded or decorative glass at one time.

Our second house, built in the early 1900s, had a large front entrance hall outfitted with a large door flanked by glass sidelights on either side of the door. The funny thing was that the door looked out of place. It was a newer wood six panel door. The sidelights had been covered over with wood as well. The previous owner had modified the door for security purposes.

All you had to do was go to the house next door to see what it had looked like originally. The house next door was of similar size and nearly the same design. It had a breathtaking front entrance door. The top half of the front door was leaded glass with full height leaded glass sidelights. The finishing touch was a leaded glass transom window that capped the top of the entire door system.


Have you found the perfect exterior door? Make sure you install it perfectly using my Exterior Door Replacement Checklist. I offer a 100% Money Back Guarantee.


It Disappeared

One night all of the leaded glass disappeared. Thieves stole the glass while the homeowner was gone. This happened in the early 1980s amid a huge housing boom in Colorado and California. The homebuyers out there building the fancy houses had an unquenchable thirst for old decorative glass. This thirst was satisfied by thieves who came East and targeted older houses in cities like Cincinnati, St. Louis and Pittsburgh. My neighbor was heartbroken as you can imagine. You can still see his glass. All you have to do is visit someone's house out West.

Turning New Into Old

My current house is just 15 years old, although it looks like a 100 year old house. My wife Kathy designed it and I started building it in 1986. It is a Queen Anne Victorian home. We wanted two windows in our family room to look authentic. These windows are just above the television and stereo cabinets. It was very common in Victorian homes to have wide but short transom windows that were about 5 feet off the floor. My guess is that furniture was placed under them just as we placed our entertainment cabinets. I used standard fixed glass windows with insulated glass, but we had special custom stained and beveled glass inserts made that fit over the factory made glass. The look, as you might imagine, is stunning. Anyone looking at the windows would think that they were indeed 100 years old. The cool thing is that I get the old look but have high performance modern glass to save money on my utility bills!

Artists in Your Town

To get stained or beveled glass made for your home, you might not have to look too far. Open your favorite search engine, and see if you can't find stained glass shops. You might be surprised with your search results. Most places will gladly work on custom designs.

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Wood Door with Insulated Glass

Wood Door Modification with Insulated Glass

Every time I watch a TV show where a doctor is cutting into a patient, I cringe. I think of the times I have cut myself with a knife or a razor knife tool. It makes me cringe. There is no doubt that the average person might feel the same way as they are about to drop a spinning circular blade down into the face of a perfectly good wood door!

Look at the X-ray!

The illustration below is a cross section of the average wood exterior door. The portion of the door on the left side of the image is either a stile or a rail. These are the thickest parts of the door and act as frames for the raised panels. The thinner piece of wood in the image is the actual raised panel that you will be removing.

Courtesy of Byrcon Wood Products, Inc.

Courtesy of Byrcon Wood Products, Inc.

This image is courtesy of Byrcon Wood Products, an awesome Canadian door manufacturer. They make regular and custom wood doors. I have some in my own home that they made for me.

Note in the image how a shaping machine cut a mirror image profiled edge on the stile or rail. In addition, the machine cut a groove that is centered between the mirrored images that accept the edge of the raised panel.

Your task, in order to prepare the door for glass, is to carefully cut away the interior facing profiled edge of the door. If you use a small 5.5 inch diameter circular saw with an ultra thin kerfed blade, you might be able to salvage the profiled edge you cut to reuse to hold your glass in place. Remember to cut on the interior side of the door. You do not want thieves to be able to easily remove the glass by simply taking off the thin trim piece you will apply at the conclusion of the job.

Cut Just to the Corner

When you are making the cuts to remove a raised panel go slowly and carefully. You do not want to cut into the door rail or stile. Be sure that the blade depth is set no deeper than 5/8 to 3/4 of an inch. Any deeper and you will start cutting into the other side of the profiled edge!

Stop the saw blade where a rail meets a stile. You will need to finish the cut into the corner with a razor knife and or a very sharp wood chisel. You may be able to salvage the piece of wood you are cutting away but don't fret if you ruin it. You will be able to find a similar screen molding at an old fashioned lumber yard.

Ready for Glass

Look at the illustration again. Imagine if the top profiled edge was cut away and the raised panel was no longer in the picture. See the remaining ledge created by the lower profiled edge? This is the outside edge and acts as the stop for the insulated glass panel. Be sure to seal this interior surface with paint or urethane to prevent damage from rain that may run down the glass.

When you order insulated glass from a glass shop be sure to ask for the minimum thickness possible. This is regulated by the glass thickness and the spacer between the panes. You will also need to ask for safety glass. It is a code requirement for glass used in doors. Do not overlook this important point! The glass should not fit tight in the opening. You should leave a 1/8 inch space around the glass. Keep this in mind when ordering the glass!

Glaze the Glass

The glass company will recommend a glazing compound to use to set the insulated glass. Practice with it so you don't make a mess. I would layer the stained glass over the insulated glass after the door is rebuilt and in place.

Read Georganne's question on replacement insulated glass in her front door. CLICK HERE for the Insulate Glass Replacement column.

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Fiberglass Paint Stripper

Safe Strippers for Most Fiberglass Doors

Paint and varnish strippers come in all shapes and sizes so to speak. They range in strength from very powerful and toxic to mild and somewhat toxic. The fastest acting strippers often contain a chemical called methylene chloride. The vapors from this have been shown to cause cancer and if you get this stuff on your skin it will burn (the voice of experience). The second group of strippers slightly down the power scale are those that contain sodium hydroxide or sodium metasilicate. The mildest strippers are those that often contain NMP or d-Limonene.

The best way to strip an existing fiberglass door is to get re-finishing instructions from the manufacturer. Look on the hinge edge of the door or the top of the door for a manufacturer's name. You may also find it on the hinges in some instances. If you can't find a name, then I would start with the least powerful stripper.

Here is what can go wrong. Fiberglass doors tend to have specialized factory applied paint-like primers on certain surfaces. If you strip these off, then you are toast. Your mission is to just remove the degraded clear top coat. You can do this with methylene chloride strippers if you work in small areas and work quickly. Apply the stripper in a small area and use a timer to make sure it sits no longer than 2 to 3 minutes. Follow the stripper instructions for best results, but watch the clock!

The following strippers are safe to use on fiberglass doors made by the Therma Tru Corporation. There is a good chance they may be safe for other doors, but check yourself to make sure!

  • Bix Stripper
  • Bix Tough
  • Dad's Easy Strip
  • Savogran Super Stripper
  • 3-M Safest Strip

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Staining Fiberglass Doors

Three - Five Years They Say

Many fiberglass door companies maintain that the clear coatings that protect the stained finish on their doors only lasts for 3 - 5 years. I feel that is a very fair statement. In fact, under certain conditions, they may be generous. I can think of locations where after 2 years you could be re-coating a clear finish. Heavy industrialized areas, west facing doors in the Southwest, fiberglass doors within 1/2 mile of ocean salt spray, etc. are examples.

The problem with many exterior items - including fiberglass doors - is that there is really no such thing as maintenance free. That is a sell line used by far too many salespeople when you look at things like vinyl siding, aluminum gutters and fiberglass doors. The truth is that all of these things require periodic cleanings and possible touch-up work to keep them looking superb.

Keep Up With It

The clear finishes that are applied to fiberglass doors are not much different than any off the shelf urethane. They are applied in thin coats and thus the amount of material left exposed to the elements is minimal. If you let the finish wear down to the stain, then you often have to strip the door and start over. Periodic thin maintenance coats of the clear finish every two years can save you tons of work. All you need to do is to make sure the door is squeaky clean before you apply each maintenance coat. Weather conditions should also be favorable.

The 50 - 90 F Rule

The largest manufacturer of fiberglass doors is a company called Therma-Tru Corporation. Their finishing instructions are very clear about temperature ranges for applying the stain and clear coats. They want the air temperature to be no less than 50 degrees and no more than 90 degrees when you work with their finishing system. Ideal conditions in my opinion would be 70 degrees with no wind and overcast skies.

Wind and direct sunlight can be your enemies when trying to get perfect results. These weather conditions can cause the clear finishes to dry too quickly. This can cause you to pull out your hair when you are working on the door. Wind can also blow dust and debris into a wet finish. Do whatever it takes to try to work in ideal conditions or create an artificial environment where you can work on the door immune from unfavorable temperatures, sunlight or wind.

The Stain Sample

If you are buying a new fiberglass door or a house with one, make sure you get the sample fiberglass skin or sample that comes in the finishing kit. This sample is supposed to be stained and finished just like the door and with the same ingredients. The sample is used to judge the level of clear coat degradation each year. You keep the sample inside in a dark location and free from heat and water. Each spring you pull it out and hold it against the exterior of your door. If you see that the gloss of the clear coat has begun to dull, it is time to re-coat the door.

No Mixing & Matching

When it comes time to re-coat your door, don't just use any clear coat. It is important to use a clear coat that is compatible with your existing finish. Keep good records or store the left over clear coat for your next application.

Keep in mind that many clear coats have a limited shelf life. Some state a three year life span once opened. I would not use one that is over two years old. Why take a chance? Remember, these clear coats are simply a hybrid glue. If you want them to stick well, then use fresh materials. I wouldn't take a chance with old material unless I had to.

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Washable Flat Interior Paint – Manufacturers

Manufacturers of Washable Interior Flat Paint

Following is a partial list of manufacturers of washable flat interior wall paint. Some paint companies in the USA are regional in nature. They simply do not distribute their products across the nation. As such, it is very possible that a high quality west coast, east coast or southern paint company exists that is not mentioned in this list. They may make a great paint! Remember to look for labeling that indicates that the paint is 100 percent acrylic. You can also shop by pricing. The 100 percent acrylic paints are almost always the most expensive.


Have you picked out the paint color but don't have the time to paint? Find the professional painters by using my Interior Painting & Staining Checklist. I offer a 100% Money Back Guarantee.


Washable Flat Wall Paints

  • Benjamin Moore & Co. - Regal Matte Finish
  • Devoe - Wonder-Tones
  • Dutch Boy - Dirt Fighter
  • Fuller O'Brien Paints - Liquid Velvet
  • Glidden - Spred Satin
  • MAB Paints - Wal-Shield
  • Pratt & Lambert - Accolade
  • Sherwin Williams - Everclean
  • Valspar - Integrity

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Washable Flat Interior Paint

Washable Flat Interior Wall Paint

Fingerprints, smudges, food, crayon marks, etc. They all seem to make an appearance on our painted walls at some point. If you happen to live in my house, it is a daily occurrence. My two daughters and son see to that. I've often thought that I should have installed floor drains in every room as well as plastic walls. This way, I could just hose the rooms down each night. But, like you, I like the look of flat wall paint, hardwood and carpeting. My wife also dislikes the looks of chrome plated floor drains.

Reflections

Did you suffer when your brand new car received its first ding from another car door or shopping cart? It seems like the smallest little depression or bump in a car finish is very noticeable. Have you ever wondered why?

Cars are painted with high gloss paints. These paints, of course, are very shiny. They are also easy to clean. Very few of us would pay top dollar for a car that had a finish like that of Detective Colombo's.

Light rays bounce very uniformly from shiny surfaces. If the surface develops a bump or depression, the light rays are reflected in a different direction away from the bump or depression. The bump or the dimple stands out like a sore thumb.


Have you picked out the paint color but don't have the time to paint? Find the professional painters by using my Interior Painting & Staining Checklist. I offer a 100% Money Back Guarantee.


This same thing can happen in your house. Have you ever painted a wall or ceiling with semi-gloss or high gloss paint? Did you notice those nail pops just a little more? Or did you see those roller or paint brush marks that never seemed to be there when using a flat paint? Now you know why.

Flat Finishes = Grand Canyon

Older flat wall paints are different than gloss paints. Under a microscope a flat paint looks something like a bunch of Grand Canyons side by side. There are lots of places for light rays to be captured instead of reflected. Sure every now and then a little mesa (flat spot) will be there to bounce light directly back, but this is the exception, not the rule. Flat wall paints do a great job of hiding minor imperfections in wall finishes. Bumps and tiny holes seem to disappear. This is why painters, builders and homeowners tend to prefer these finishes.

These miniature Grand Canyons also make great places for dirt, food, etc. to fall into. The problem is, it's tough to get these same things back out of the canyons.

In fact, older flat wall paints simply could not be cleaned. When you would wash them, sometimes the pigments would come off on your wash rag and after the cleaned spot dried, it would be shiny. Numerous complaints to paint companies by consumers like you prompted them to develop the new washable flat wall paints.

Washability

We already know how easy it is to clean a car. But what gives a car or interior gloss paint this property? These paints contain massive amounts of resin. Resin is a key ingredient in paint. It is the glue which allows paint to stick to a surface. It is also the protective film which surrounds and protects any pigments which may color the paint. Clear paints - yes, there are such things - are simply the urethanes or varnishes you use on wood furniture and cabinetry. Auto manufacturers could coat your car with a clear paint as well, but who wants to see the metal!

Two Types of Resin

The interior paints of choice for many homeowners are water-based paints. These paints can be applied quite easily and clean up with soap and water. Water, and sometimes small amounts of hydrocarbon solvents, are a key ingredient of these paints. The water and solvents allow you to spread the product on the wall. As such, it is often called the vehicle. You use the water/solvents to transport the paint from the can to the wall. Hey, don't blame me. I'm not responsible for the name. Call the paint companies!

Anyway, there are two primary types of resins used by paint manufacturers in water-based paints: acrylic and vinyl (polyvinyl acetate.) There are big differences between the two.

Vinyl resins cost less than acrylic resins. These resins don't foam or bubble as much as acrylic when applied. They resist water damage adequately. Vinyl resins clean out of brushes and rollers quite easily.

Acrylic resins cost twice as much vinyl resins. They maintain high flexibility for long periods of time. They are extremely durable. For this reason, all good exterior house paints are usually exclusively 100 percent acrylic. Acrylic water-based paints often smell a little like ammonia. They foam and bubble more than vinyl resins.

The bottom line is this: paints that contain 100 percent acrylic resins will usually perform much better than vinyl paints. The resin is tougher. This means that it just might be more washable. Remember, you will pay for this quality, but, as the old saying goes, "you get what you pay for."

Magical Paints

We have a slight problem. We know that resins are shiny and that we need resins to provide the washability. So how do the paints appear flat? Well, for the most part, that is a trade secret. The closest that I could get to this answer was a combination of two things: shape of pigments (color ingredients) and quantity of resin.

It seems that these new washable flat wall paints contain new pigments that are shaped like snowflakes. Older pigments used to be shaped like balls or rocks. Thus, when completely coated with resin (washability) you still have the capability to scatter light rays like the old fashioned flat wall paints.

The trick is simple. The manufacturers have to include enough resin to coat the pigments, but not too much so as to flood the spaces between the pigments. I'm glad that's not my job! Good luck on your painting project.

Column B81

Painting Tips – Metal and Rusted Metal

Tips for Painting Metal and Rusted Metal

Do you remember your last painting job? OK, what did you do? You scraped the surface, brushed away the dust, shook the paint can, opened the lid, and started painting. Is that fairly close? What? You didn't take 5 minutes and read the entire label? Are you kidding me.........? Well, the next job is going to be different, isn't it! My first tip is to remind you to read the label on both the primer AND the top coat. Make sure the two paints are compatible. Look to see the drying time. Only prime as much metal as you can recoat the next day or so. A primer needs to be recoated as soon as possible. This helps the finish coat bond!

Surface Preparation

This is the absolute most important part of the paint job. Nearly 80% of all paint failures can be traced back to surfaces which were not given proper cleaning or attention.

Surface preparation is the process of eliminating surface contamination from the surface to be painted. Contamination such as loose paint, dust, moisture (sometimes), oil, grease, plant oils, etc. all interfere with the bonding of the paint to the surface. Remember, paint is simply liquid glue!

Sanding, Blasting, or otherwise Roughening it up!

Do you want your primer to really grip the metal? Then roughen it up. The more you roughen a surface, the more surface area you expose which can grab onto the paint. You don't believe me? Why not take a piece of 8.5 x 11 paper. Fold it like an accordion. Lay it next to a flat piece of paper. Both have the same surface area exposed, but the folded paper is in a smaller area. If you scratch up or sandblast a piece of metal, you create these minor 'folds'. This principle holds true with just about any thing that you must paint.

Painting Rusted Metal

Years ago, I used to think that you had to remove every piece of rust to successfully paint steel. This is imply not true! I have had fantastic luck painting moderately rusted steel. I scraped the loose rust scale off, then wire brushed or rubbed the steel with steel wool. After removing the rust dust, I would use a zinc chromate primer. These primers are often a dull red color when dry. This primer has served me well for the past 10 years. I recommend that you try it or any other top quality rust inhibitive primer for your rusted steel.

Surface Preparation Booklet

Would you like a REALLY wonderful booklet about surface preparation? I thought so! Check the RUST-OLEUM Corporation. Look or ask for:

  • SURFACE PREPARATION
    It is a booklet with a person wearing a sandblasting mask on the cover. It is 10 pages long and is a MUST HAVE!

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Paint and Primer for Steel

Chances are you tend to stick with one brand of paint. Most people do. There is a good chance that the paint you currently use has a good oil based rust inhibitive primer for steel. If so, great! If not, the paints listed below will provide you with exceptional protection. The Rust-oleum Corporation, as you might gather from their name, makes a wide variety of primers and finish paints specifically formulated for steel. One of their top chemists provided me with key information regarding rust inhibitive primers. Usually you can find Rust-oleum products in major hardware or home center stores.

When looking for a metal primer, the label MUST say rust inhibitive. If it doesn't say this in the title, look in the one paragraph description on the back side of the label. BEWARE - there are metal primers that do NOT contain rust inhibitive pigments! Without these pigments you are wasting your money. These are the ingredients that sacrifice themselves to the electrolytic solutions that try to corrode the steel. Take your time and find the right product. It will add years to your paint job. I wish you luck on your painting project!

  • Coronado Paint Company

    Primer - Rust Scat Alkyd Metal Primer
    35-111 35-147 35-153
    This primer has excellent 'wetting' properties that provide great penetration into the steel or rusted areas. Can act as a top coat in certain instances, however, a real top coat is better.

    Top Coat - Rust Scat Polyurethane High Gloss Enamel
    31 Line
    This is a wonderful top coat paint. It contains great resins which provide a strong bond to freshly applied primers.

  • Fuller - O'Brien Paints & Coatings

    Primer - Blox Rust Alkyd Metal Primer
    Fuller O'Brien makes several primers for different metals. Be sure to check the label for the metal you might be painting (steel/iron, aluminum, or galvanized steel)!

    Top Coat - Versaflex Heavy Duty Alkyd Gloss Enamel
    This top coat works on just about every surface except for two areas - wood house exterior trim and auto body paint.

  • Kurfees Coatings

    Primer - 433 RustPlate Rust Inhibitive Primer
    This paint dries flat for an excellent prep surface for the top coat. It contains barium metaborate - a rust inhibitive pigment.

    Top Coat - 428 WaterBorne Acrylic Gloss Enamel
    Here is a waterbased paint that is compatible with the oil based primer!

  • M A B Paint Company

    Primer - Rust-O-Lastic Zinc Chromate Primer
    Now here is a paint! I have had superior results with zinc chromate metal primers. See what you think!

    Top Coat - Rust-O-Lastic Finish Coating
    This is an oil based high gloss finish paint.

  • RUST-OLEUM

    Primer - 7769 Rusty Metal Primer
    7780 Clean Metal Primer
    8781 Aluminum Primer
    These three primers should be self-explanatory. The rusty metal primer is just for that - RUST. Don't use it on clean metal!

    Top Coat - RUST-OLEUM makes a full line of topcoats for virtually any item - exterior wood, metal, high temperature grills, appliances, chain link fences, etc.

  • Sherwin Williams

    Primer - Rust Tough

    Top Coat - Super Paint or A-100

Column B140

Paint and Primer as Rust Inhibitor

Rust Inhibitive Paints and Primers

Corrosion is a killer. It does it to steel, aluminum, zinc, magnesium, lead, and tin in cold blood. Often there are two accessories to the crime - contaminated water and air. You have witnessed this process no doubt. A shiny penny becomes dull brown and eventually green. Bright aluminum turns dull. Fresh, bare steel can be coated with a fine haze of rust in a matter of hours. I know, I've seen it happen in front of my own eyes.

States of Energy

When you look at any metal product, did you ever think that the metal is unstable? Probably not. I didn't think about it until I wrote this column. When metals like steel, copper, aluminum, etc. are refined, they are taken from a stable state (ores in the ground or rock) into an unnatural state. Think. You just don't dig into the ground and pull out I-beams......

Thus, once the metal is refined, it tries to go back to its original stable state. Different metals go back quicker than others. The ones that require the most energy to refine, go back faster to their natural states. In other words they corrode more readily.

Which metals corrode faster than others? It's easy. Here is a list that goes from the most likely to the least likely to corrode in sea water. The top of the list corrodes the fastest:

  • Magnesium
  • Zinc
  • Aluminum
  • Mild Steel
  • Lead
  • Tin
  • Nickel
  • Brass

______________________

  • Copper
  • Nickel
  • 410 Stainless Steel
  • Titanium
  • 304 Stainless Steel
  • Silver
  • Gold
  • Platinum

The line separates active metals (above the line) from the metals which are passive. As you know, you see on TV specials gold objects pulled from the ocean that look as brilliant as when the ship sank. Does that make it easier to understand?

The Corrosion Process

Steel rusts or corrodes because the steel is actually being eaten alive. The steel rusts, flakes off and disappears. Water which contains impurities (most water does, including rain water!), contacts the steel and creates a battery much like the one in your car.

The water contains ions which create a small electric current. The electric current pulls the iron atoms right from the steel. Furthermore, the steel reacts with air and oxidizes. This is the rust you see. Corrosion can be stopped. Simply do not allow the steel or other metal to come into contact with water and air. This is not as hard as it seems. Think of your car. Many of the body parts are steel which doesn't readily rust if left protected.

The Key is in Chemistry

Paint manufacturers all have chemists who work for them. They know that you can inhibit corrosion by controlling the chemistry at the surface of the metal. In other words, you can treat the steel with a coating which chemically alters the surface of the steel to make it less likely to give up the iron atoms. Rust inhibitive pigments in paint do this.

Some excellent rust inhibitive pigments are metals which are active. Zinc, chromate, lead, barium metaborate, etc. all make great chemical coatings which can protect steel. However, we all know lead is very poisonous. As such, it is tough to get paints that contain lead. Navy ships for years had paints which contained vast quantities of lead. It really protected the steel hulls from rust.

Check the Label on the Can!

Priming steel can't be done with just any paint. Look at the label and make sure you have a primer that contains rust inhibitive pigments. If the paint has them, it WILL say so on the label. If it doesn't, keep looking!

Be sure the primer you use is oil based. Oil based paints can simply coat the steel better. They flow better into the microscopic surfaces of the steel. This provides much better holding power. Not only that, oil paints are great vapor barriers. Water vapor and air itself simply can't pass through. This is vitally important if you want to stop the corrosion process. Good luck on your painting project!

Column B140