Patio Designs

Five Must-Have Patio Design Tips

1. Size is Everything
No matter how many plants you have, fountains, etc., your patio will be a failure if it is too small. You MUST take the time and design it to accommodate the furniture and people that will occupy it.

2. Multi-Level
If your property has a slight slope to it, there is no reason why the patio can't be on one or more levels! This design feature is very appealing if each level is the right size.

3. Low Voltage Lighting
After dark you can stay outside if your patio is illuminated with soft low voltage lights. You can even get lights that look like boulders!

4. Water
NOTHING enhances the feel of a patio like a fountain or small pond. Water - especially the sound of it - will make your patio come to life.

5. Soft Curves
Tough to install but the look is it!


These rounded steps compliment the rounded edges of the patio.
The top step has a 3 x 3 foot landing area to meet code requirements.


There is plenty of room on this patio. I should know, it is mine. The table and chairs at the top corner have plenty of room. The patio is over 700 square feet.


This center planting island is a great idea if you have the room. The tree is about 10 feet tall. It is a paper bark maple. The pots will soon be full of flowers.


Here is a smaller side patio with enough room for four chairs. It looks out onto another part of the yard. The brick steps leading to it are gorgeous.

Quality Starts in Your Contract

Quality Starts in Contract

To ensure that quality construction will happen on your job, you must mention it in your contract. Simply saying that work will be done to "...industry standards or in a workmanlike manner" is NOT good enough! Spelling out how things will be done in written specifications that are part of the contract is the best way. Provide the actual instructions as to how things go together. These are readily available from the manufacturers and/or trade associations. You can also include simple language in the contract that says something similar to, "...all materials will be installed as specified by the manufacturer and/or trade association that is closely allied to this material group."

When to Inspect

Inspecting for quality needs to be done on a routine basis. In some instances it will be daily, in others it might be weekly. You need to show up at the jobsite to make sure that your interests are protected.

Keep in mind that things are not always perfect at the end of each day. The carpenters may not finish plumbing an interior wall before they leave. You may see it that night and have a hissy fit. Relax. The next morning it probably was going to get fixed by the workers. The time to react quickly with respect to obvious mistakes is when the work is in danger of being covered up or altered by the next sub-contractor. Don't wait for weeks to mention defects. Use some judgment and ask questions. Don't automatically assume a mistake has been made. Bring up defects softly. No one likes confrontations!

Finding a Professional

If you find a professional contractor, you can often significantly lower your anxiety level with regards to quality. Professional contractors want the job done right. They usually have a good quality team of subcontractors. Mistakes can and do happen, but they are few and far between.

The way to find a pro is to look. You need to ask questions, lots of them. I can tell you that people rarely asked me lots of questions during an interview. I assume they based their decision on a gut feeling or hope. That can be dangerous!

Quality Assurance

Caulking defects and paint splatters are obvious and simple construction defects to spot. But what about the more technical aspects of construction? What is a defect and what is not? The answer is not always clear. To a great degree, there are subjective limitations to levels of quality. It is not like a math problem where the answer is either right or wrong!

Want Protection? - Read!

If you want to make sure that the quality on your upcoming job is the absolute highest, you have to take a pro-active position in the job. What does this mean? It means you need to get educated. Often this is as simple as reading certain sections of the building code. Yes, the building code is a set of minimum quality standards, but some aspects are very important. Another great place to start is to look towards trade associations. There are hundreds of them.

The trade associations have enormous amounts of information about how their products should be installed. For example, the Portland Cement Association has hundreds of publications that tell you how concrete should be ordered and finished. Many are easy to read and cover the most important aspects of the job. The California Redwood Association has fantastic publications that outline exactly how wood siding should be installed so that it lasts for hundreds of years. I could go on and on.

National Building Costs Price Guidelines

Cost Breakdown Guidelines

If you remember your high school chemistry, you probably recall that you can break down chemical compounds into small pieces. These parts all have a relative value with respect to the original compound. Construction projects are no different. You can break the cost of a new home down to thousands of parts if you have enough time and energy. A more reasonable breakdown would be somewhere in the range of 100 to 200 cost components.

Virtually everyone who builds needs to borrow money. Banks and savings & loans for years have had to place values on new construction in progress. Builders and remodelers who struggle to develop crisp estimates for jobs also need to have a handle on what certain things cost. Over the years some reasonable standards have been developed that allow one to estimate - with a reasonable degree of accuracy - what a particular aspect of construction might cost.

The following values are estimates of what things might cost in your part of the nation. The figures can vary depending upon the region and the total cost of the house. Custom housing figures can vary wildly. For example, a custom home might contain extravagant bathrooms and kitchens that may consume 15 percent of the total construction budget. You need to keep this in mind as you develop costs for your project. The pricing guideline books can help you get closer to an accurate number if you are doing a custom project.

 

Site Survey - Layout
 
0.15%
Lot Clearing - Excavation
 
1.5
Sewer Work - Septic Fields
 
3
Footings
 
2
Foundation
 
11
Drain Tile
 
1
Foundation Waterproofing
 
1
1st floor Subfloor system
 
3
2nd Floor Subfloor system
 
3
Exterior Wall Framing
 
2
Exterior Sheathing
 
1.85
Exterior Air & Water Barrier
 
0.15
Roof Trusses
 
2
Roof Sheathing
 
1
Roof Shingles
 
2
Windows
 
2.65
Exterior Doors
 
0.35
Exterior Siding/Brick
 
4
Interior Wall Partitions
 
3
Rough Plumbing
 
4.5
Water Service
 
0.5
Rough Electric
 
2
Finish Electric-Install Outlets/Fixtures
 
1
Heating Rough-in
 
3
Heating/AC Completion
 
2
Insulation
 
1
Drywall
 
1.75
Basement Slab
 
2
Hardwood Flooring (Average %)
 
1
Ceramic Wall Tile
 
1
Interior Trim/Woodwork
 
3
Interior Doors
 
1.5
Interior Hardware
 
0.5
Kitchen Cabinets
 
3.25
Kitchen Counter Tops
 
0.50
Appliances
 
1
Floor Tile/Sheet Vinyl
 
3
Interior Painting
 
2
Wallpaper
 
1
Finish Plumbing & Fixtures
 
4
Lighting Fixtures
 
1
Carpeting
 
1
Garage (complete structure)
 
1
Exterior Gutters/Downspouts
 
1
Exterior Painting
 
1
Driveway
 
2
Sidewalks/Small Patio
 
1
Final Grading
 
0.5
Lawn Seeding
 
0.25
Landscaping
.
0.5

 

Fine Tuning

You can take the above numbers and continue to break them down. For example, do a breakdown of all plumbing fixtures by room. Do the same with light fixtures.

Different regions have varying building practices. In the Midwest, basements are common. They are rare in the South. As such, the above foundation number would be wrong for a simple slab foundation. Use your common sense.

Residential Construction Price Guides

Residential Cost Guide Publications

Did you know that you can go to most major libraries and get some very cool books that allow you to calculate the cost of different building and remodeling projects? These manuals have been around for years for the commercial construction industry. They were used heavily - and still are - by architects and commercial builders. The manuals break projects down very cleanly into their separate parts. A unit measure cost - usually square foot - is then assigned to each task. The manuals cite labor costs and frequently material costs for a typical task.

The best part is that there are regional and city adjustment multipliers. These numerical adjustment tools allow you to zoom in on the cost for your area. The cost manuals are updated annually so that inflation, supply/demand factors, etc. are all calculated into the final number you look at.

The publishers below have books and cost guides for the residential market. The Means Residential Square Foot Costs: Contractor's Pricing Guide 2004 is a good one that I have used with a reasonable degree of accuracy. The other publishers have fine cost guides as well. I suggest you contact all three of the below companies and ask for a catalogue of their products. The Craftsman Book Company has some fantastic books about residential construction. I own a swell book of theirs called Roof Framing. It is a very technical book about old fashioned roof framing techniques, math, etc. They also publish great books about plumbing, electric wiring and carpentry.

Whatever you do, DON'T bet the ranch on numbers you get from the price guide manuals. They are to be used to get you close to a number, not a drop-dead actual estimate. Do that by getting old fashioned bids!

  • R.S. Means Company, Inc.
    P.O. Box 800
    63 Smiths Lane
    Kingston, MA 02364-0800
    800-334-3509
  • Craftsman Book Company
    6058 Corte Del Cedro
    Carlsbad, CA
    760-438-7828
  • National Association of Home Builders
    1201 15th Street, NW
    Washington, DC 20005
    202-266-8200

Contain Building Costs

Allowances

Allowances are for people who are in a rush. These common items in a bid, a set of plans or a contract have caused more misery for people who are building or remodeling than just about any other aspect of construction. Why? Allowances are often unrealistic. The allowance amount listed may not be enough money to purchase the item or level of quality you desire.

You can check the accuracy of allowance items fairly quickly by going to a product showroom. Make a quick list of all the plumbing fixtures you like. Add up the total cost and see where you stand. I think you will find - in most cases - that the allowance is a little stingy.

Take Your Time

A better way to develop accurate costs for a project is to pre-select everything you are going to use or need. This solves two problems: 1. You know the cost of the items. 2. The contractor and sub-contractors can calculate the exact amount of time it takes to install the item(s).

Why is this important? I'll give you a great example. About eight years ago I was awarded a contract for a room addition project. The plans for the job didn't spell out any special notes about door hardware. Well, the customers had lots of money and the wife had exquisite tastes. She went to the door hardware store and came back with a mortise lockset! Yikes! These things take 6 to 8 hours to install vs. the standard 20 minutes for a predrilled tubular lockset you install in most doors.

The bad thing is that the customers didn't feel the need to pay me extra for all the time spent to install the fancy lockset. You could argue both sides of the extra payment issue fairly easily - since the contract said I had to install a lock. I learned my lesson and they got a good deal.

To avoid situations like this in your project, just take the time to pre-select what your are going to buy. You have to do it sooner or later, so take your time up front and save hassles for all involved. You will be able to enjoy your project much, much more if you eliminate the stress of selecting items on a tight deadline schedule.

Avoiding Building Costs Surprise

Surprises

One way to sour a construction project is a surprise or hidden cost. You can take the sting out of surprises several ways. One thing you should do is create a contingency fund for this purpose. Don't tell anyone about this hidden money. It exists only for emergencies.

Another method of avoiding surprises is developing a highly detailed list of job costs. If you are building a new home, you or your builder knows many things must happen. If you list each task and then place a realistic number behind each job, you will virtually eliminate a surprise or cost overrun.

My New Home Construction Checklist is an excellent example of such a list. I have broken down the construction of a new home into a 150+ item list. You can really get a grasp of what is necessary to build a home using this list! This Checklist is available electronically from my website. Just go there and visit the Online Store.

Calculating Building Costs

Construction and building costs often are tough to pin down. Contractors can struggle to get accurate numbers. There are many estimating software packages that claim they will help develop crisp numbers, but garbage in equals garbage out. In other words, to get crisp, solid numbers, the estimator needs to know exactly how long it takes to do something under given conditions. This may work well in tract building where one house is just like another, or in manufactured housing situations, but custom building and remodeling cost estimates can be baffling.

Worst Case

It was not uncommon for me to make mistakes during the bidding process. I was the eternal optimist. It always seemed to turn out that I could work faster on paper than in the field. Mud, cold temperatures and other delays can eat into productivity.

One method of calculating costs is to figure a worst case scenario. The problem with this method lies in the fact that the final number may burst a construction budget.

High quality construction companies keep good records. They know how much time - on average - it takes to pour a room addition footer. Or a company knows how many feet of custom exterior wall it can frame in a day. A tile setter knows that he can install more square feet of 8x8 tile than slate in 8 hours.

If you find contractors who keep records like this, they can usually produce solid numbers that allow them to make a fair profit and gives you good value at the same time.

Deicing Facts

Different Salts

Those of us who live in the snow-belt are fairly familiar with rock salt. Large trucks distribute it on roadways to keep traffic flowing. I would curse the salt producers and the drivers of these trucks, not because of damage to roadways, but to my cars. Salts of just about any type are quite corrosive to metal. The chloride ion aggressively attacks poor quality steel. Many cars built in the '70s used poor quality steel, which made rusting body panels a nightmare. Cars built today seem to use better steel and steel that has corrosion resistant coatings that minimize salt damage. It is still a good idea to rinse off your car as soon as possible once it is coated with salt spray. Always rinse up under each fender and as much of the undercarriage as well.

A Safer Salt

Within the past few years a new deicing salt has been introduced to the USA. It is magnesium chloride. It joined the ranks of the other popular deicing salts: sodium chloride, calcium chloride and potassium chloride.

Magnesium chloride is attractive for several reasons. Testing conducted by the National Research Council's Strategic Highway Research Program showed that calcium chloride and sodium chloride caused lots more damage to concrete than did magnesium chloride. The sodium chloride - common rock salt - actually caused 63 times more damage than the magnesium chloride. This is a huge difference. The calcium chloride eroded 26 times more cement than the magnesium chloride. That is also a significant amount.

Stop - Purchase Deicing Salt eGuide NowGet a 24-page guide right now that answers all your questions about Deicing Salts. Will it RUIN your concrete? Did you know that salt can SERIOUSLY harm you? What about your expensive landscaping? You can have all these answers and more in less than a minute. Buy it NOW.

Magnesium chloride is also less corrosive to metal such as tin, steel and aluminum (see Author's Note at the end of this column). The reason lies in the fact that it has less chlorides available than calcium chloride and sodium chloride. Remember, it is the chloride ion that attacks metals.

If you use significant amounts of salt or plan to, you need to paint all steel that is in contact with the concrete. This means that the steel bars or mesh used in concrete need to be primed with a rust inhibitive paint. Steel railing posts or aluminum posts need to be treated as well before they are cemented into place in a hole in a sidewalk or in a set of steps. Take this extra time and the corrosion will be minimal.

Plants, Animals & Carpets

Magnesium chloride is friendly to plants, streams, rivers and lakes. The primary reason for this is its lower chloride content. Magnesium itself is often found in many fertilizers.

Traditional deicing salts, like sodium and calcium chloride, leave white powder residue on carpets once they dry. Magnesium chloride doesn't do this.

Your pets should prefer magnesium chloride as well. It is not nearly as toxic as the other available deicing salts.

A Window of Vulnerability

Fresh concrete can be hurt by deicing salts if it is poured too late/early in the season. Concrete needs to be moist cured at or above 50 degrees F for a minimum of 7 days after it is poured. This curing controls and minimizes the release of water within the concrete.

Once cured, the concrete needs to dry for a minimum of 30 days before it is exposed to freeze-thaw conditions and deicing salts. Keep this in mind if you are pouring concrete early or late in the season!


Salt Toxicity

If you are not concerned with the environment, you should be. Each day there are more people on the planet. We need to adopt a sense of stewardship for future generations. You can do that by using products that are kind to the environment. Magnesium chloride is a deicing salt that is very non-toxic. In fact, it is the least toxic deicing salt - yet it is one of the most effective.

Look at the chart below to see how magnesium chloride - referred to as MAG - compares to other salts and some common household products you use and consume. Whatever you do, don't consume the top two items in the chart - cyanide and strychnine! The chart is courtesy of the Dead Sea Works.

Author's Note: In 2001, the USDA published an article entitled "Magnesium Chloride as a De-Icing Agent" that stated magnesium chloride led to "corrosion of steel and aluminum poles and pole hardware." Although used as an effective deicer, updated evidence after the publishing of this article on AsktheBuilder.com shows it can lead to harm of electric utilities. The article can be read here.

Also, a February 2003 Board of Montana Flathead County Commissioners minutes document called "Magnesium Chloride on Roads" on Corrosion-Doctors.org attests to magnesium chloride's corrosiveness on aluminum and steel. In a corrosion comparison done by Colorado D.O.T. and the University of Colorado, it was found that "road salt is more corrosive to the metals than mag chloride on a one time exposure." However, magnesium chloride corrodes over longer periods of time and Greg Fulton, president of the Colorado Motor Carriers Association, said it corroded aluminum on his vehicles as well as led to wiring failure. This document can be read here.

Related Articles:  Guidelines for Strong ConcreteDeicing Salt and ConcreteMagnesium Chloride & Deicing Salt Companies

Magnesium Chloride & Deicing Salt Companies

The Yellow Pages

The image just to the right is a clipping from my own Yellow Pages directory. It is published by Cincinnati Bell Directory, Inc. - a great company that provides me with a dial tone all the time! A larger ad quickly tells you that Cinti Wholesale Supply, and Koehl, Ed Inc. both carry deicing salts. They might carry magnesium chloride, but surprise - they don't! A smaller company with a minor listing - Ewers, Harry & Sons, Inc. - is the only company in Cincinnati, Ohio, that carries the newer deicing salt. You probably would have passed over them when trying to call around for magnesium chloride.

Open your Yellow Pages and start calling. It may require some patience on your part but you just may find that 'diamond in the rough' company like Harry Ewers & Sons, Inc. in your city or town.

Sources of Magnesium Chloride

To the best of my knowledge, magnesium chloride is only produced offshore. The primary source is the Dead Sea located in the Middle East. Those of you who remember your world geography should recognize this location - the lowest dry land below sea level. This giant drainage basin collects water and concentrates the mineral content within the sea as the surface water evaporates. The Dead Sea is rich in minerals - one of them being magnesium chloride. A company there - the Dead Sea Works - diverts water to evaporation basins and lets Mother Nature produce the raw salt. The company refines the magnesium chloride and then ships it to the United States and other countries that want to use this friendly deicing salt.

Stop - Purchase Deicing Salt eGuide NowGet a 24-page guide right now that answers all your questions about Deicing Salts. Will it RUIN your concrete? Did you know that salt can SERIOUSLY harm you? What about your expensive landscaping? You can have all these answers and more in less than a minute. Buy it NOW.

Another company selling magnesium chloride is the Potash Import & Chemical Corporation. Go to their web site for a list of their warehouse locations, or to order their product.

Another magnesium chloride product is made by Interstate Products, Inc. You can order directly from their web site.

Related Articles:  Deicing FactsGuidelines for Strong ConcreteDeicing Salt and Concrete