Residential Construction Price Guides

Residential Cost Guide Publications

Did you know that you can go to most major libraries and get some very cool books that allow you to calculate the cost of different building and remodeling projects? These manuals have been around for years for the commercial construction industry. They were used heavily - and still are - by architects and commercial builders. The manuals break projects down very cleanly into their separate parts. A unit measure cost - usually square foot - is then assigned to each task. The manuals cite labor costs and frequently material costs for a typical task.

The best part is that there are regional and city adjustment multipliers. These numerical adjustment tools allow you to zoom in on the cost for your area. The cost manuals are updated annually so that inflation, supply/demand factors, etc. are all calculated into the final number you look at.

The publishers below have books and cost guides for the residential market. The Means Residential Square Foot Costs: Contractor's Pricing Guide 2004 is a good one that I have used with a reasonable degree of accuracy. The other publishers have fine cost guides as well. I suggest you contact all three of the below companies and ask for a catalogue of their products. The Craftsman Book Company has some fantastic books about residential construction. I own a swell book of theirs called Roof Framing. It is a very technical book about old fashioned roof framing techniques, math, etc. They also publish great books about plumbing, electric wiring and carpentry.

Whatever you do, DON'T bet the ranch on numbers you get from the price guide manuals. They are to be used to get you close to a number, not a drop-dead actual estimate. Do that by getting old fashioned bids!

  • R.S. Means Company, Inc.
    P.O. Box 800
    63 Smiths Lane
    Kingston, MA 02364-0800
    800-334-3509
  • Craftsman Book Company
    6058 Corte Del Cedro
    Carlsbad, CA
    760-438-7828
  • National Association of Home Builders
    1201 15th Street, NW
    Washington, DC 20005
    202-266-8200

Contain Building Costs

Allowances

Allowances are for people who are in a rush. These common items in a bid, a set of plans or a contract have caused more misery for people who are building or remodeling than just about any other aspect of construction. Why? Allowances are often unrealistic. The allowance amount listed may not be enough money to purchase the item or level of quality you desire.

You can check the accuracy of allowance items fairly quickly by going to a product showroom. Make a quick list of all the plumbing fixtures you like. Add up the total cost and see where you stand. I think you will find - in most cases - that the allowance is a little stingy.

Take Your Time

A better way to develop accurate costs for a project is to pre-select everything you are going to use or need. This solves two problems: 1. You know the cost of the items. 2. The contractor and sub-contractors can calculate the exact amount of time it takes to install the item(s).

Why is this important? I'll give you a great example. About eight years ago I was awarded a contract for a room addition project. The plans for the job didn't spell out any special notes about door hardware. Well, the customers had lots of money and the wife had exquisite tastes. She went to the door hardware store and came back with a mortise lockset! Yikes! These things take 6 to 8 hours to install vs. the standard 20 minutes for a predrilled tubular lockset you install in most doors.

The bad thing is that the customers didn't feel the need to pay me extra for all the time spent to install the fancy lockset. You could argue both sides of the extra payment issue fairly easily - since the contract said I had to install a lock. I learned my lesson and they got a good deal.

To avoid situations like this in your project, just take the time to pre-select what your are going to buy. You have to do it sooner or later, so take your time up front and save hassles for all involved. You will be able to enjoy your project much, much more if you eliminate the stress of selecting items on a tight deadline schedule.

Avoiding Building Costs Surprise

Surprises

One way to sour a construction project is a surprise or hidden cost. You can take the sting out of surprises several ways. One thing you should do is create a contingency fund for this purpose. Don't tell anyone about this hidden money. It exists only for emergencies.

Another method of avoiding surprises is developing a highly detailed list of job costs. If you are building a new home, you or your builder knows many things must happen. If you list each task and then place a realistic number behind each job, you will virtually eliminate a surprise or cost overrun.

My New Home Construction Checklist is an excellent example of such a list. I have broken down the construction of a new home into a 150+ item list. You can really get a grasp of what is necessary to build a home using this list! This Checklist is available electronically from my website. Just go there and visit the Online Store.

Calculating Building Costs

Construction and building costs often are tough to pin down. Contractors can struggle to get accurate numbers. There are many estimating software packages that claim they will help develop crisp numbers, but garbage in equals garbage out. In other words, to get crisp, solid numbers, the estimator needs to know exactly how long it takes to do something under given conditions. This may work well in tract building where one house is just like another, or in manufactured housing situations, but custom building and remodeling cost estimates can be baffling.

Worst Case

It was not uncommon for me to make mistakes during the bidding process. I was the eternal optimist. It always seemed to turn out that I could work faster on paper than in the field. Mud, cold temperatures and other delays can eat into productivity.

One method of calculating costs is to figure a worst case scenario. The problem with this method lies in the fact that the final number may burst a construction budget.

High quality construction companies keep good records. They know how much time - on average - it takes to pour a room addition footer. Or a company knows how many feet of custom exterior wall it can frame in a day. A tile setter knows that he can install more square feet of 8x8 tile than slate in 8 hours.

If you find contractors who keep records like this, they can usually produce solid numbers that allow them to make a fair profit and gives you good value at the same time.

Deicing Facts

Different Salts

Those of us who live in the snow-belt are fairly familiar with rock salt. Large trucks distribute it on roadways to keep traffic flowing. I would curse the salt producers and the drivers of these trucks, not because of damage to roadways, but to my cars. Salts of just about any type are quite corrosive to metal. The chloride ion aggressively attacks poor quality steel. Many cars built in the '70s used poor quality steel, which made rusting body panels a nightmare. Cars built today seem to use better steel and steel that has corrosion resistant coatings that minimize salt damage. It is still a good idea to rinse off your car as soon as possible once it is coated with salt spray. Always rinse up under each fender and as much of the undercarriage as well.

A Safer Salt

Within the past few years a new deicing salt has been introduced to the USA. It is magnesium chloride. It joined the ranks of the other popular deicing salts: sodium chloride, calcium chloride and potassium chloride.

Magnesium chloride is attractive for several reasons. Testing conducted by the National Research Council's Strategic Highway Research Program showed that calcium chloride and sodium chloride caused lots more damage to concrete than did magnesium chloride. The sodium chloride - common rock salt - actually caused 63 times more damage than the magnesium chloride. This is a huge difference. The calcium chloride eroded 26 times more cement than the magnesium chloride. That is also a significant amount.

Stop - Purchase Deicing Salt eGuide NowGet a 24-page guide right now that answers all your questions about Deicing Salts. Will it RUIN your concrete? Did you know that salt can SERIOUSLY harm you? What about your expensive landscaping? You can have all these answers and more in less than a minute. Buy it NOW.

Magnesium chloride is also less corrosive to metal such as tin, steel and aluminum (see Author's Note at the end of this column). The reason lies in the fact that it has less chlorides available than calcium chloride and sodium chloride. Remember, it is the chloride ion that attacks metals.

If you use significant amounts of salt or plan to, you need to paint all steel that is in contact with the concrete. This means that the steel bars or mesh used in concrete need to be primed with a rust inhibitive paint. Steel railing posts or aluminum posts need to be treated as well before they are cemented into place in a hole in a sidewalk or in a set of steps. Take this extra time and the corrosion will be minimal.

Plants, Animals & Carpets

Magnesium chloride is friendly to plants, streams, rivers and lakes. The primary reason for this is its lower chloride content. Magnesium itself is often found in many fertilizers.

Traditional deicing salts, like sodium and calcium chloride, leave white powder residue on carpets once they dry. Magnesium chloride doesn't do this.

Your pets should prefer magnesium chloride as well. It is not nearly as toxic as the other available deicing salts.

A Window of Vulnerability

Fresh concrete can be hurt by deicing salts if it is poured too late/early in the season. Concrete needs to be moist cured at or above 50 degrees F for a minimum of 7 days after it is poured. This curing controls and minimizes the release of water within the concrete.

Once cured, the concrete needs to dry for a minimum of 30 days before it is exposed to freeze-thaw conditions and deicing salts. Keep this in mind if you are pouring concrete early or late in the season!


Salt Toxicity

If you are not concerned with the environment, you should be. Each day there are more people on the planet. We need to adopt a sense of stewardship for future generations. You can do that by using products that are kind to the environment. Magnesium chloride is a deicing salt that is very non-toxic. In fact, it is the least toxic deicing salt - yet it is one of the most effective.

Look at the chart below to see how magnesium chloride - referred to as MAG - compares to other salts and some common household products you use and consume. Whatever you do, don't consume the top two items in the chart - cyanide and strychnine! The chart is courtesy of the Dead Sea Works.

Author's Note: In 2001, the USDA published an article entitled "Magnesium Chloride as a De-Icing Agent" that stated magnesium chloride led to "corrosion of steel and aluminum poles and pole hardware." Although used as an effective deicer, updated evidence after the publishing of this article on AsktheBuilder.com shows it can lead to harm of electric utilities. The article can be read here.

Also, a February 2003 Board of Montana Flathead County Commissioners minutes document called "Magnesium Chloride on Roads" on Corrosion-Doctors.org attests to magnesium chloride's corrosiveness on aluminum and steel. In a corrosion comparison done by Colorado D.O.T. and the University of Colorado, it was found that "road salt is more corrosive to the metals than mag chloride on a one time exposure." However, magnesium chloride corrodes over longer periods of time and Greg Fulton, president of the Colorado Motor Carriers Association, said it corroded aluminum on his vehicles as well as led to wiring failure. This document can be read here.

Related Articles:  Guidelines for Strong ConcreteDeicing Salt and ConcreteMagnesium Chloride & Deicing Salt Companies

Magnesium Chloride & Deicing Salt Companies

The Yellow Pages

The image just to the right is a clipping from my own Yellow Pages directory. It is published by Cincinnati Bell Directory, Inc. - a great company that provides me with a dial tone all the time! A larger ad quickly tells you that Cinti Wholesale Supply, and Koehl, Ed Inc. both carry deicing salts. They might carry magnesium chloride, but surprise - they don't! A smaller company with a minor listing - Ewers, Harry & Sons, Inc. - is the only company in Cincinnati, Ohio, that carries the newer deicing salt. You probably would have passed over them when trying to call around for magnesium chloride.

Open your Yellow Pages and start calling. It may require some patience on your part but you just may find that 'diamond in the rough' company like Harry Ewers & Sons, Inc. in your city or town.

Sources of Magnesium Chloride

To the best of my knowledge, magnesium chloride is only produced offshore. The primary source is the Dead Sea located in the Middle East. Those of you who remember your world geography should recognize this location - the lowest dry land below sea level. This giant drainage basin collects water and concentrates the mineral content within the sea as the surface water evaporates. The Dead Sea is rich in minerals - one of them being magnesium chloride. A company there - the Dead Sea Works - diverts water to evaporation basins and lets Mother Nature produce the raw salt. The company refines the magnesium chloride and then ships it to the United States and other countries that want to use this friendly deicing salt.

Stop - Purchase Deicing Salt eGuide NowGet a 24-page guide right now that answers all your questions about Deicing Salts. Will it RUIN your concrete? Did you know that salt can SERIOUSLY harm you? What about your expensive landscaping? You can have all these answers and more in less than a minute. Buy it NOW.

Another company selling magnesium chloride is the Potash Import & Chemical Corporation. Go to their web site for a list of their warehouse locations, or to order their product.

Another magnesium chloride product is made by Interstate Products, Inc. You can order directly from their web site.

Related Articles:  Deicing FactsGuidelines for Strong ConcreteDeicing Salt and Concrete

Guidelines for Strong Concrete

Seriously, there are two associations that promote concrete and its correct use. They are progressive and their recommendations are backed up with tens of thousands of hours of scientific investigation and testing. The two groups are the Portland Cement Association (PCA) (www.cement.org) and the American Concrete Institute (ACI)(www.concrete.org). Here are some guidelines they suggest you follow, if you want trouble-free concrete in cold climates:

Low Water to Cement Ratio

The cement in concrete is the glue that holds everything together. The more water you add when you mix, the weaker the concrete will be for a given amount of cement. Think of cement as sugar in iced tea. If you add just a little sugar the sweetness level is weak. Add lots of sugar and you get some sweet stuff!

A Four Inch Slump - The MAXIMUM Allowed

Slump refers to the stiffness of the mix. The lower the number the stiffer concrete is. You can actually mix and pour concrete with a 1 or 2 inch slump! Have you seen highway median work where the crash barrier is done with a forming machine? The concrete is so stiff that it can stand four feet tall moments after it is poured - yet it attains a high strength once cured and dried. You don't need lots of water to make concrete strong. The addition of water to a 5 inch or higher slump just makes it easier to pour.

Six Bag or 4,000 PSI Mix

You must have enough cement in each cubic yard to make sure it is strong. For concrete exposed to freezing temperatures you want a minimum of six bags (564 lbs.) of cement per cubic yard or a design strength of 4,000 pounds per square inch.


Want perfect concrete work? Find a pro by using my Concrete Work (Sidewalks, Driveways, Patios & Steps) Checklist. I offer a 100% Money Back Guarantee.


Air Bubbles

Special chemicals can be added to concrete as it is mixed. These chemicals create micro-air bubbles within concrete. The air spaces become shock absorbers as water freezes within concrete. Make sure your concrete is ordered with air - often called air entrained concrete.

Proper Finishing

Just as you can't add extra water to mixed concrete, you can't add water during the finishing process. This added water dilutes the cement paste in that localized area.

Slope

Concrete slabs need to have good drainage. This means that they need a slope of 1/8 inch per lineal foot minimum to shed water. Pooled water that freezes on the surface is bad....bad.......!

Adequate Curing

As concrete dries, it needs water to complete the chemical transition called hydration. If you let too much water escape from the slab before the chemical reaction is complete, it simply doesn't become as strong as it should be. You can cure concrete by covering it with plastic, wet burlap that stays wet or by spraying it with a liquid curing compound. Don't forget this important step!

No Silicone!

If you feel the need to seal your concrete, do not use silicone sealers. These are film formers. You need a breathable sealant or water repellent. Top performers are those that contain silanes and siloxanes. These are chemicals that are similar to silicone.

Related Articles:  Deicing FactsDeicing Salt and ConcreteMagnesium Chloride & Deicing Salt Companies

Fifty Cost Cutting Do’s and Don’ts

Fifty Do and Do Not Cost Cutting Items

1. Specifications and Plans - DO NOT cut corners here! Get the best and most detailed plans.

2. Survey - Better make sure your house is in the right place!

3. Foundation - Possibly the most important structural part of your home. Use extra steel. If it is a slab, use EXTRA steel and pour it 6 inches thick!

4. Foundation Waterproofing - Absolutely spend money here! An asphalt coating is NOT waterproofing!

5. Termite Control - If you are in termite prone areas, pre-treat soil now. It is cheaper than doing it down the road.

6. Structural Steel - You could save money by not priming and painting it, but it would be a mistake, especially any exterior brick lintels. Those must be primed and painted on all sides and edges before they are installed.

7. Sewer Line / Septic - Do you like to rod out sewer lines? Who does? Get the best installed here.

8. Electric Service - You could get an economy panel but you may have a hard time getting breakers in the future. Go with name brand stuff here.

9. Roof Trusses - Get standard trusses if you want to save money. Need extra storage space or a future room? Then get attic trusses!

10. Roofing - You can get by with regular 3 tab shingles. The steeper the roof pitch the longer they last. This is really an aesthetic issue. What will look good on your home?

11. Roof Ventilation - More is better.

12. Air and Water Infiltration Barrier - DO NOT skip this. Water does leak through brick, siding and stucco. You must protect the wood structure.

13. Windows - These are the most important energy items in your home. Buy cheap windows trying to economize and you will regret it.

14. Exterior Doors - This is an important mechanical and energy item. DO NOT waste money here. Think how much it will cost to replace one!

15. Furnace / AC - These two items control and maintain your indoor comfort! Buy the best. BEWARE - This is one area where most builders try to save money.

16. Ductwork - This system moves air around your home. DO NOT save here!

17. Water Heater - You can save here if you want. Buy one with a 5 year warranty. Water heaters - if installed correctly with di-electric unions - can be replaced in several hours.

18. Gas Lines - Put in what you need for now but have the plumber install tees with nipples and caps if you think you want additional lines run in the future to a fireplace or a gas grill.

19. Telephone Wiring - It is important to have a single cable run to each place where a phone will be. DO NOT loop one cable through the house.

20. CAT 5 Wiring - This is the wire standard of the near future. Phones, computers and all sorts of devices can be networked if you install this wire.

21. Central Vacuum - You don't need one, but they are nice to have.

22. Plaster - It is better than drywall, but drywall will work.

23. Soundproofing - Here is one place to spend some extra cash. Once you move in it is too late to remediate.

24. Siding - You can save with vinyl siding. Some are very realistic looking.

25. Brick - In the long run - if installed correctly - brick saves you money. It also adds value.

26. Gutters - You can save here. These are easy to upgrade later.

27. Exterior Paint - Buy the best paint possible. The new urethane acrylic blends are the best! Backprime all wood before it is installed.

28. Exterior Sidewalks - Pour these 5 inches thick.

29. Driveway - If you can find a tar and chip installer it is the least expensive but best driveway.

30. Garage Door - The largest mechanical device in your home. Do not try to save here.

31. Disappearing Stairs - If you cut corners here you could break a leg.

32. Mailbox - These can be replaced in an hour.

33. Fencing - This is a luxury you possibly can put off till another day.

34. Retaining Walls - The new mortarless technology stackable walls are very affordable and they work!

35. Landscaping - Do as little as possible. Be sure to consider how big things get!

36. Interior Doors - You can replace these later. It is not too hard.

37. Interior Door Hardware - These also can be replaced with little effort. Get by for now with cheaper ones.

38. Kitchen Cabinets - These are tough to replace. Buy good ones.

39. Countertops - Plastic Laminate is affordable and better looking than ever before!

40. Kitchen Sink Faucet - A serious DIY'r can replace a sink faucet in about two hours. Upgrade later.

41. Built-in Appliances - Buy good ones.

42. Refrigerator - Get a new one that uses little electricity. They will save you money down the road.

43. Dishwasher - If you like to talk in your kitchen you better get a quiet one!

44. Disposal - These can also be changed out in less than an hour. Buy a cheap one for now.

45. Laundry Room Cabinets - A great place to economize.

46. Interior Light Fixtures - For important ones, I would buy high quality. Hallways and other secondary rooms - economize for now!

47. Tub and Shower Valves - Buy the best! These are hard to change out.

48. Lavatory Faucets - Get cheap ones. You can change these in an hour or less.

49. Toilets - Economize. A toilet can be changed in as little as two hours.

50. Carpeting - Economize!

Concrete and Cold Weather

Did you know that the performance of many building and remodeling materials is deeply rooted in basic chemistry and physics? Now hold on there, this isn't going to be a reenactment of your boring high school chemistry class. Give me a chance here. OK, take roof shingles and flashings. Many people look at me funny when I tell them that the only reason they work is because of gravity. If rain water goes backwards up a roof, you will have a leak!

In my opinion, concrete is probably one of most fascinating building materials. While it appears to be a very basic material, nothing could be further from the truth. High quality concrete doesn't happen by accident. It is a highly sophisticated chemical compound.

Think Jello®

Have you ever made instant gelatin or pudding? Well, you take a powdered mixture, mix it with water, stir it up, and before you know it, you have a semi-solid compound. You are an amateur chemist and you didn't even realize it!

There is a difference, however, between concrete and Jello®. The cold temperatures in your refrigerator speed up the transition of the liquid mixture into a semi-solid material. With concrete, cold temperatures slow this transition. In the case of concrete, it can be disastrous.

Concrete is a strong material because of its chemistry. When you mix water with the cement powder, you start an irreversible chemical reaction. Tiny crystals begin to grow. These crystals attach to one another, the sand and the gravel in the mixture. When everything goes right, you basically have created a compound hard as a rock!

Ice Crystal Pressures

Speaking of crystals, let's digress and talk about ice crystals. When water freezes it turns into ice crystals. This transition would be no problem except for one thing. As the ice forms, the volume of the water grows by nine percent! The ice tends to push or break things that get in its way. The force can be enormous.

In the case of freshly poured concrete, ice can destroy your slab. Enough cement crystals must be allowed to grow within the concrete to withstand the forces of growing ice crystals. It can be a race against time. Most concrete chemists and engineers agree that if the concrete can attain a minimum strength of 500 pounds per square inch (PSI), it can resist ice damage.

Did you know that some chemical reactions require heat to complete, while other reactions create heat? Guess what? The chemical reaction of concrete formation creates heat! It is called the heat of hydration. This heat can be trapped and used to fight off the threat of ice. All you or your concrete contractor has to do is to cover the fresh concrete with insulated blankets. Nothing to it!

Common Surface Defects

Concrete which has been damaged by cold weather commonly has surface defects. The most common defect is spalling. Spalling is simply the peeling or loss of the top finished layer of the concrete. It usually happens because the upper surface of the concrete froze before enough crystals grew to give this layer a strength of 500 PSI.

Popouts are another common surface defect. A popout is created when a piece of aggregate (rock) in the upper surface of the concrete explodes as a result of freezing. Some pieces of aggregate have a tendency to absorb water. This water freezes, expands and BOOM! Gravel companies go to great lengths to try to remove this type of rock from the gravel. However, they don't always catch every piece.

Deicing salt damage is another common surface defect related to cold weather. Scaling of your concrete can happen even if everything was done correctly. As concrete is exposed to air, it gets harder. This process is called carbonation. The carbon dioxide in the air reacts with the concrete and creates limestone (calcium carbonate). Some forms of limestone are very hard!

This carbonation process, however, usually takes one year to produce any substantial differences in strength. So, if you use deicing salts or they drip from the under side of your car onto your new slab, you may have a problem.

Stop - Purchase Deicing Salt eGuide NowGet a 24-page guide right now that answers all your questions about Deicing Salts. Will it RUIN your concrete? Did you know that salt can SERIOUSLY harm you? What about your expensive landscaping? You can have all these answers and more in less than a minute. Buy it NOW.

Other Cold Problems

Let's say you do everything right. You order heated concrete (either the mix water is heated and/or the sand and gravel is heated by the supplier), you even put extra cement in the mix, you finish the concrete correctly, and you insulate it for three to five days. You still can have problems!

The cold temperatures slooooow down the crystal formation in concrete that gives it its strength. Sure, you hit the 500 PSI mark okay, but your slab or foundation wall may need higher strengths to resist cracking.

So, in colder weather, you must try to keep your concrete protected from loading as long as possible. Avoid backfilling foundations. Don't allow heavy trucks to drive across sidewalks or driveways. Protect your investment!

Cold Weather Concrete Tips

Tips on Pouring Concrete in Cold Weather

I have poured many a concrete slab in cold weather. It is always a challenge. The cold temperatures make working that much more miserable. If you get wet, you really become miserable. No doubt this type of activity is not for the faint hearted! What's worse, once the pour begins, there is no turning back. That concrete coming down the chute is like liquid gold! A mistake or goof can cost thousands of dollars.

Frozen Ground or Snow

Don't pour concrete on frozen ground. Not only can the ground freeze the concrete from the bottom up, you can have catastrophic cracking when the ground thaws. There will no doubt be hollow spots beneath the concrete. Driving over the hollow spots will create tension, which in turn creates cracks.

Pouring concrete over snow simply adds unnecessary water to the concrete. We have already discussed why this is not a good idea.


Want perfect concrete work? Find a pro by using my Concrete Work (Sidewalks, Driveways, Patios & Steps) Checklist. I offer a 100% Money Back Guarantee.


Foundation Walls and Cold Weather

Is your house going to be built in cold weather? Watch out for pouring foundations in cold weather! Remember a foundation wall is simply a vertical slab. However, they have a disadvantage. They are exposed on three sides once the forms are pulled! Foundation forms should be well insulated and left on for three to five days if at all possible.

If your foundation contractor removes the forms too quickly, the concrete will have absolutely no protection! If they must remove the forms, absolutely install the insulation blankets immediately. If you have extended cold weather don't allow the foundation to be backfilled. Temperatures below 14 degrees F completely stop the hydration (crystal growing) process. Once temperatures rise above that, the chemical reaction resumes, but very slowly. It could take a long time for your foundation walls to gain enough strength to resist the pressure of backfill dirt.

 

Low Slump + Lots of Help = Success

Low slump concrete is hard to work with. It's backbreaking work. But in cold weather is can mean the difference between success and failure. Think of it, why not hire (or have your contractor hire) two to three additional people for the one to two hours it will take to place the stiff concrete. Once in place, screeded and bull floated, those guys can take off. What did it cost? $100 - 150? Is that worth it to insure that you will not have bleed water problems? Low slump concrete will allow you to finish the slab quicker. That will allow you to get blankets on the slab quicker. It's a good idea!