Concrete Installation Guidelines

Posted on by Tim Carter
shovel mixing concrete

Here’s some concrete in a wheel barrow that’s been mixed by hand and it nearly perfect in consistency. Photo Credit: Tim Carter

Concrete installation is not easy. The material is heavy and you only have a limited amount of time to finish it to get great results. Adding water to it at any time after it's mixed increases the chances of failure.

Revised February 2018

Concrete Is A Magical Material

Concrete is a remarkable material. It's important to realize it's man-made artificial rock.

Think about how this material that once mixed has a plastic consistency like pancake batter and hours later it's hard. A month later it's so hard it can support a skyscraper!

Concrete technology is, in fact, a science. There are scientists who devote their entire life to working with this material. These people research methods to improve it and its use.

My guess is that just about everyone has seen concrete being poured. Concrete begins its life as four basic ingredients:

  • sand
  • gravel
  • Portland cement
  • water

These are blended in precise quantities so it has the consistency of pancake batter. It's a plastic material at this stage.

Related Links

Secret Recipe for Long-Lasting Concrete

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This concrete mix transforms into a solid material usually within a matter of hours. The length of time depends primarily on the temperature of the mix, the outdoor air temperature, and the amount of direct sunlight striking the concrete.

I must tell you that each and every time I work with concrete I marvel at this transformation.

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Crystals Grow During Concrete Installation

If you know how and why concrete transforms from the liquid to the solid state, you'll more easily understand why concrete fails or experiences surface defects.

The Portland cement powder is the glue that holds the sand and gravel together. An irreversible chemical reaction called hydration starts to happen when water is added to the dry powder.

This reaction causes tiny crystals to begin to grow. The crystals act like Velcro® and lock together the tiny grains of sand to the pieces of gravel. This reaction continues for months after the concrete is initially mixed.

The needles of the crystals begin to interlock with one another and begin to penetrate microscopic holes and cracks in the sand and gravel. The crystals cement everything together. No pun intended!

Concrete Stiffens Within Hours

The growth of the crystals can be monitored. If you have ever had the pleasure of working with and finishing concrete you can feel the crystals growing. As each minute or hour passes after the concrete truck has left the job site, the concrete becomes progressively stiffer. It soon gets to a point where it will support the weight of a person using an automatic finishing machine. The growth of the crystals allows this to happen.

Things can go wrong if the crystals grow too fast. For example, you may not be able to achieve the desired finish because the concrete gets too hard to fast to put on a desirable top finish. Hot weather is the most common reason the crystals grow faster than you or the finisher would want to have happened.

If you're pouring concrete in hot weather, you have to have plenty of finishers on the job to ensure the concrete doesn't get hard before it's finished.

You can add special chemicals to the mix to slow down the hydration reaction.

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Concrete Surface Defects - Some Common Causes

Concrete surface defects are often caused as the crystals begin to grow. One of the biggest reasons for surface defects is the addition of extra water to the mix and/or the use of water on the surface of the concrete as a part of the finishing process.

Both of these practices are frowned upon by concrete scientists. The reasons are numerous, however, they all have to do with those silly cement paste crystals.

Water is the Friend and Foe of Concrete

Water is frequently added to concrete after it arrives at a job site. Concrete finishers often will look at the batch as it begins to discharge from the concrete truck.

They may think that it is too stiff. The addition of extra water makes the concrete flow easier. There will be less work. They think they will have more time to finish the concrete.

Concrete was initially mixed at the concrete plant has plenty of water. In fact, as long as accepted work practices are used in placing and finishing the product, the concrete has extra water. Professional installers who use slip-form equipment to pour barrier walls and concrete curbs in new subdivisions use concrete that's got so little water in it, there's no need for wood forms to hold its final shape.

Watch these two videos to see proof of this. Regular concrete finishers could never work with this material by hand because it's far too stiff.

Water Is Lightest Of The Four Ingredients

You can actually observe this fact if you pour concrete on top of a plastic vapor barrier. Frequently, after the finishers have bull-floated the concrete to smooth it initially, water migrates to the surface of the slab. This is called bleed water. It comes to the surface because it is actually the lightest component of the entire batch!

The addition of extra water at the job site alters the chemistry of the crystal reaction. The cement paste is severely diluted. The cement particles are farther apart from one another and not as many crystal needles interlock.

The concrete will be weaker if you add extra water. The addition of extra water during the finishing process produces the same results, however, just the top layer of concrete is usually affected.

Water is often added by finishers because the concrete is getting too hard to finish. The growing hydration crystals will be broken apart if you add water to the top surface at this time. The addition of water allows the finisher to more easily work the surface of the concrete.

It's a mistake to allow this to happen. You prevent this by having enough workers finishing the concrete so no water has to be added.

Another key point is the entire batch of concrete is mixed at the same time. This means the hydration crystals are growing at the same rate throughout the mix.

Remember, if you are finishing a large slab alone, the crystals are growing everywhere across the slab!

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local concrete contractors.

Concrete Curing & Sealing Tips

Posted on by Tim Carter

Curing Concrete - Critical!

Curing is the process of maintaining an optimum environment (temperature & humidity) around the fresh concrete for a specific period of time so that the concrete can achieve its designed strength and durability characteristics.

The chemical reaction that occurs when you mix water and cement is called hydration. This hydration is a two stage process. The initial stage happens quickly. This is the transformation from the liquid to the solid state. It can happen in less than four hours. After this, the reaction slows down. The reaction can continue for months and sometimes years! Crystals continue to grow and the concrete keeps getting stronger and stronger.

However, for this reaction to continue the concrete needs water! If the freshly poured concrete is left open to the atmosphere the relative humidity of the concrete will rapidly drop below 100 percent. The water is evaporating into the atmosphere. If the humidity level drops below 80 percent, the hydration reaction can actually stop. If this happens early in the life of the concrete, the concrete may only achieve half of its design strength!

Stopping the Evaporation

There are several ways to stop the water from leaving freshly poured concrete. You can cover it with burlap or other cloth and keep it wet; it can be covered tightly with plastic; or you can spray a liquid curing compound onto the concrete.

Liquid curing compounds are easy to work with. These products are basically liquid 'plastic'. They form a watertight barrier that prevents water from evaporating from the concrete. The use of water and burlap can waste huge volumes of water. Sheet plastic must be installed so that absolutely no air can get under the plastic. Wind can be a big problem. Curing compounds are the only way to go.

Get your Deicing Saltquestions answered in the AsktheBuilder Deicing Salt eGuide. Packed with Questions and Answers regarding the use of rock salt on its affect on concrete. Available now at the AsktheBuilder Store as an Immediate Download.

The key to using curing compounds is their immediate application once you have lifted your trowel from the concrete for the last time. Do not hesitate to apply these compounds! On sunny windy days, the water is leaving the concrete at an incredible pace. It is not uncommon to experience plastic shrinkage cracks in concrete under these conditions. The trick is to finish the concrete as quickly as possible and spray the curing compound right away. On large jobs, a separate person should be following behind the finisher and applying the curing compound as the finisher is working just ahead. Believe me, it is that critical.

Concrete Sealants

Earlier, we discussed the crystals that create concrete. If you could look through a powerful microscope at concrete, you would be amazed. It is far from a solid compound. It would look similar to a giant metal jungle gym that you often see in city parks, the steel bars being the needles of the crystals. Just like in the jungle gyms, there is free space between the needles of the crystals.

Water is easily absorbed into concrete that has a wood float or magnesium trowel finish. This is the type of finish that is most common on residential sidewalks, patios and driveways. These finishes are slightly rough for skid and slip resistance.

When water freezes, it expands. In fact, the volume increase is approximately 9 percent. Since water, in liquid form, is not compressible, this means that as it begins to freeze it pushes things out of its way. In concrete, the water and ice begin to push against the needles of the crystals. These needles break and fracture. Once enough needles are broken, the concrete begins to fall apart. The manifestation of this phenomena is spalling and pitting of the surface.

Deicing salts create the same problem. When the salts melt snow and ice, they create a saltwater brine which is absorbed into the concrete. Weird osmotic pressures build up inside the concrete as the salt brine solution becomes more concentrated. These pressures break the needles of the crystals as well.

What to do?

The best defense against freeze/thaw damage and salt brines is to minimize the absorption of these liquids into the concrete. There are wonderful sealants available that do just that. However, not all sealants can be used in all climates.

Certain sealants are comprised of a liquid in which millions of tiny solid particles are suspended.These sealants penetrate into the concrete surface. After the liquid evaporates, the tiny solid particles are left behind. These particles fill many, but not all, of the spaces between the needles of the crystals. Enough spaces are blocked so that water and other liquids can't squeeze into the concrete. However, water vapor that is in the concrete can escape from the remaining openings.

This is very important if your concrete is subjected to freezing temperatures. Water vapor which is trapped in concrete can build up, freeze, and break needles! Be sure to purchase a breathable sealant if you live in such a climate.

Certain common concrete sealants are not breathable! Beware!

Concrete Publications

Posted on by Tim Carter

Concrete Installation Publications & Literature

There are hundreds of books which have been written concerning concrete and the installation of this building material. Some are basic in nature, while others are extremely technical. Professional papers abound in the literature as well.

However, for homeowners who wish to obtain a better understanding of the subject, a centralized source exists for a wide range of literature. Some of it is basic, while some is technical. You can pick the level you are comfortable with and advance your knowledge level if you wish.

There are two primary sources for authoritative concrete publications and literature:

The Portland Cement Association has a magnificent catalog filled with books, pamphlets,videos, etc. They have some great FREE articles on their web site and a Bookstore with a complete catalogue of their fine publications. An investment in several of their books and pamphlets will provide you with vast amounts of valuable information. This information will allow you to make sure that your next concrete job will not end in failure!

Want perfect concrete work? Find a pro by using my Concrete Work (Sidewalks, Driveways, Patios & Steps) Checklist. I offer a 100% Money Back Guarantee.

One section of their catalog deals with residential concrete construction. Two books come to mind, which I would highly recommend: The Homeowner's Guide to Building with Concrete, Brick & Stone, and Design and Control of Concrete Mixtures.

The first book is an excellent overview of mixing, placing and finishing concrete. The second book is more technical. However, if you really want to learn about concrete, purchase this book. You will be on your way to becoming an amateur concrete scientist!

Manufacturers of Concrete Curing Compounds and Concrete Sealants

  • Chemprobe Technologies, Inc.

  • Degussa
  • Symons
  • Tamms Industries, Inc.
  • Thompson's WaterSeal

Residential Concrete Manuals

Posted on by Tim Carter

Residential Concrete Installation Manuals

Many people are unaware of the fact that concrete is a sophisticated and technical building product. I feel this is partly because three of the four basic ingredients of concrete are so common: sand, gravel and water. The fourth ingredient, cement, is where the science and technology come into play. This key ingredient allows concrete to go from a liquid or plastic state to a solid compound in just hours time. It is a wonderful transformation that, when done properly, can yield a product which is extremely durable.

However, homeowners and trades people often fail to properly install concrete. I think that this is due, in large part, to the vast amount of misinformation which has been passed along concerning concrete. Fortunately, there is an enormous amount of clearly written information dealing with concrete. Much of it is available at public libraries. However, probably the most concentrated source of high quality concrete information is available from The Portland Cement Association (PCA - http://www.cement.org).

The PCA is "an organization of cement manufacturers whose mission is to improve and extend the uses of Portland cement and concrete through market development, engineering, research, education, and public affairs work". They have been around for years and are considered by many to be one of the most authoritative sources of concrete information in the USA.

Want perfect concrete work? Find a pro by using my Concrete Work (Sidewalks, Driveways, Patios & Steps) Checklist. I offer a 100% Money Back Guarantee.

The Portland Cement Association has an online catalog listing all of their publications. Many of them are written so that a layman can understand them. You will be amazed at the number of publications available. Some are small five to ten page pamphlets, and are available for free download in PDF format. Others are full blown books. The photos and illustrations are excellent. Following is a partial listing of publications which would be of great use to homeowners. I've listed the item number and its title.

08/2008

Concrete and Steel Tips

Posted on by Tim Carter

Concrete Strength

Not all concrete is the same. The design strength of concrete is a function of the quantity of cement used when it is mixed. The more cement that is used, the higher the strength of the finished product, as long as you place, finish, reinforce and cure the concrete properly. Thus, the final strength of the concrete really depends upon what is done after the concrete is unloaded from the truck! Many people are unaware of this responsibility. However, certain applications require different minimum strengths. For example,exterior slabs (driveways, patios, sidewalks, steps, etc.) should be a minimum 4,000 PSI strength. The PSI refers to pounds per square inch, or its compression strength. As the number gets larger the concrete becomes stronger.

Thickness

The performance of a slab is directly related to its thickness. The thicker you pour a slab the stronger it will be. In fact, increasing the thickness of a slab from four to five inches increases the strength dramatically.Thicker slabs can handle more weight and are better able to bridge depressions which may form due to soil settlement. A thicker driveway slab will possibly be able to handle that once a year heavy delivery truck. When you consider the long term benefits, the slight extra cost to increase the thickness is well worth it.

Cracking

Most homeowners are shocked when I tell them that concrete is supposed to crack. In fact, I guarantee that it will crack in a majority of instances. The reasons are really very simple. Concrete cracks can usually be blamed on one or more of the following: cracks caused by shrinkage related to the curing or drying process, cracks related to expansion and contraction induced by temperature changes, cracks related to concentrated heavy loads, cracks related to poor, uncompacted sub-grade conditions, cracks due to rapid water loss prior to the final finishing stage. These all might sound complicated, but in reality they are not.

Want perfect concrete work? Find a pro by using my Concrete Work (Sidewalks, Driveways, Patios & Steps) Checklist. I offer a 100% Money Back Guarantee.

Concrete shrinks when it drys, just like many things. Clothes shrink, wood shrinks, and concrete shrinks. Concrete is similar to wood with regards to shrinkage. As a piece of wood dries, it shrinks. The wood fibers pull closer to one another in response to the loss of water. Eventually a weakness develops between a 'row' of fibers, and a crack or a split develops. This is exactly what happens to concrete. The crystals of concrete are actually pulling away from one another. This pulling or tensile force is enormous and will crack the slab. The rate of shrinkage is very close to 1/16" per ten feet. So, if you poured a 100 foot long slab it will shrink nearly 5/8"! That's a lot! The trick is to anticipate this shrinkage and attempt to force the concrete to crack where it will look the least noticeable.

The installation of control joints every 10 feet in large slabs will generally account for this shrinkage. A control joint is an induced crack point. You may notice them as tooled lines that occur on a regular basis in sidewalks and driveways. These tooled lines should be deep enough (1/4 of the thickness of the slab) so as to create a natural weak spot in the slab. Isolation joints are points where concrete meets up against something that for all intents and purposes will not move. These joints are made of a material that will react to the expansion and contraction of the slab. These materials are sold under different names such as expansion paper, homasote, fiberboard, etc. It should be installed in strips the same thickness as the slab which is being poured.

Reinforcing Steel

Steel is an inexpensive and user friendly material. Concrete and steel work very well together. The addition of steel to concrete increases concrete's strength enormously. Concrete has very little tensile strength - that is, it can be pulled apart easily. Steel, on the other hand, has tremendous tensile strength. So, if you add enough steel to concrete, it is virtually impossible to pull it apart. Cracks commonly occur in concrete due to its low tensile strength. So, adding steel helps to minimize cracks that might develop as a result of tension. Cracks that do develop often will remain as hairline cracks. If the steel is large enough (1/2"reinforcing rods), frequently there will be no vertical displacement between the two cracked sections.

Steel is very inexpensive. I can purchase 1/2" rods locally for $0.15 a linear foot. Using this number, you can purchase enough steel for a 10 x 20 foot slab for less than $40.00!! I calculated that sum by creating a mat of steel rods, two feet on center both directions, one foot in from each edge. That matrix creates a very strong slab. Would you be willing to pay an additional $40 in materials to significantly increase the strength of your slab? I thought so. An experienced mason with a helper can install this steel in just several hours. It is well worth the price.

You can also install welded wire mesh in slabs. This material is usually available in two sizes, 21# and 42#. The mesh is generally five feet wide and is comprised of squares six inches on a side. The 21# mesh is constructed of steel wire approximately 1/16" thick. The 42# mesh wire is close to 1/8" thick. Mesh is very effective at strengthening slabs. Although I personally prefer steel rods, mesh is a good alternative for those who feel they cannot install the heavier steel rods.

Please take some time and do additional reading concerning concrete. I guarantee that you will be amazed at how much science and technology is involved. This added knowledge will enable you to spot the informed professional that you intend to hire for your next job. Ask him or her some direct, pointed questions. Ask them if they know what the PCA is. See how they respond. Hopefully, you will be able to locate an individual who can answer a large majority of your questions correctly. Good reading and good luck!

Concrete Sealant Manufacturers

Posted on by Tim Carter

Remember to check to see if the sealant will discolor your existing concrete. Most of them will not. Some of the acrylic sealants look milky colored when applied, but will dry completely clear. However, be sure to verify this with the manufacturer before applying to your concrete!

Manufacturers of Concrete Sealants

  • Saver Systems
  • W.R. Meadows, Inc.
  • Abatron, Inc.
  • Metalcrete Industries, Inc.
  • Sika Chemical Corp.
  • Chemprobe Corp.
  • Thompson's Water Seal
  • Conproco Corp.

Are you one of the manufacturers listed above? Do you want your company name to be a link to your website? Click here.

Related Articles:  Deicing Salts And Concrete, Concrete Sealants, Concrete Life Maximized

08/2008

Concrete Life Maximized

Posted on by Tim Carter

Reinforcing Steel

Concrete has very little "tensile" strength. Concrete, which has not been reinforced, will crack when subjected to tension. This can be illustrated quite easily. Pour a piece of concrete 8 feet long, 1 foot wide and 4 inches thick. Let it dry for 28 days. Put two concrete blocks on end and lift the piece of concrete onto the blocks so as to make a table or bridge. Begin to stack concrete blocks in the middle of your "bridge." Before long, the concrete will crack and your bridge will collapse. Watch out for your feet and hands, if you really decide to do this! By adding the concrete blocks to the "bridge," you caused it to bend or 'stretch' in the middle. This is tension.

Concrete reinforcing steel is designed specifically for strengthening concrete. It comes in different diameters. Usually, 1/2" and 5/8" is used in residential construction. The use of this type of steel in your concrete drives, sidewalks, patios, etc. will significantly lengthen the life of your concrete. The steel will minimize cracking. It actually holds the concrete together when you subject it to tension. You subject concrete to tension when you do the following things: drive across it, push against it, subject it to freeze/thaw cycles, concentrate loads on it, etc.

In the event a slab develops a crack, the presence of steel reinforcing rods will keep the concrete from spreading apart or offsetting. Offsetting is where one portion of a slab is higher than the other portion after it cracks. This steel is not very expensive in relation to the cost of having to replace the concrete. A good spacing for these bars is 2 foot on center both directions. While this may seem like an excessive amount, it really will go a long way in strengthening your slabs. Be sure that the steel ends up close to the middle of the concrete slab. The concrete must surround the steel to be effective. If it is too close to the bottom or top of the slab it will be a waste of time and money.

Want perfect concrete work? Find a pro by using my Concrete Work (Sidewalks, Driveways, Patios & Steps) Checklist. I offer a 100% Money Back Guarantee.

Pouring Conditions

Most people think that the best time to pour and finish concrete is on a sunny, breezy, hot day. Wrong! The best results can be achieved if you pour concrete on an overcast, damp day with an air temperature around 55 F. If the temperature were to stay at 55 F for three to four days, it would be ideal. Temperature extremes (hot or cold) are bad for concrete. Windy days can cause too much water to evaporate from the surface too rapidly. Plastic shrinkage cracks will develop. These can severely diminish the quality of the surface of the slab. If you must pour on a hot sunny day, try somehow to erect a temporary tent or screen to keep the sun from beating down on the slab. It does not need the extra heat from the sun!

If you must pour in cold weather, be sure to cover the slab as soon as it is finished with insulating blankets, straw and plastic, or some other insulating material. Keep this cover on for at least 72 hours. As the concrete hardens, a chemical reaction is taking place (exothermic) which actually generates heat. You must store this heat so that the fresh concrete will not freeze.

Curing Compounds

Immediately after you put the final finish on concrete, you should apply a curing compound. This is EXTREMELY important. The water which was added to mix the concrete must not be allowed to evaporate from the slab!

The process of concrete drying is called hydration. This is a two step process. The first step occurs in the first few hours after you mix the concrete. This is why you are able to put a finish on the concrete. Each minute that passes after you add water to the sand, gravel, and cement mixture, calcium carbonate crystals begin to grow. After so many minutes enough crystals have grown to allow the concrete to become "stiff." The crystals MUST have water in order to grow.

These crystals continue to grow for weeks and weeks after you first mixed the concrete. If you allow water to evaporate from the slab, the crystals will stop growing and you will have severely weakened concrete. It's that simple! Only a fool would go to all the trouble and expense of pouring a slab and then not apply curing compound.

If you cannot afford curing compound you have several other alternatives. You can cover the slab completely with plastic. You must seal the edges with dirt so that air or wind does not get between the plastic and the slab. This could cause water to evaporate. Another method is to keep the slab wet with damp burlap or other rags. This is very labor intensive and a great waste of water. You must continually monitor the burlap to be sure that it is constantly wet. You must also figure out a way to keep the burlap from blowing away in windy conditions.

Concrete Sealants

Posted on by Tim Carter

Sealant Varieties: Solvent or Acrylic Based

There are many varieties of sealants currently on the market. Some are solvent based (petroleum based), while others are acrylic based (water based). Some are clear, while others are colored. You have many to choose from.

Some sealants penetrate into the concrete, while others merely create a film on the surface. The penetrating sealers generally perform much better. Try to use a penetrating sealant, if at all possible.

Non-Breathable Sealants

Some sealants have compounds in them which virtually prohibits water from being absorbed by the concrete. In certain instances, these sealants also inhibit the passage of water vapor from the slab to the air above the slab. These sealants are often referred to as non-breathable. This property can be detrimental depending upon the climate. Sealants containing compounds which do not breathe should be avoided in climates where temperatures drop below freezing (32 F) for extended periods.

The reason for this is quite simple. Concrete slabs can absorb water from two directions. They can absorb water from rainfall or surface runoff on top of the surface, or they can absorb water from the soil beneath the slab. The water from beneath the slab is actually drawn to the surface as water vapor. Without a sealant, this water can evaporate from the surface.

However, if you seal the concrete with a non-breathable sealant, a barrier is created which the water vapor cannot easily penetrate. During cold weather, this water vapor can freeze and cause the surface of the concrete to flake. There are sealants which contain compounds which allow them to breathe. Often these sealants are clearly labeled as to whether or not they do, in fact, breathe. Consider using these if you live in a cold climate.

Before Using a Sealant

When using sealants, it is EXTREMELY IMPORTANT to follow the manufacturer's directions and instructions. I can't emphasize this enough. Read the directions carefully before opening the product. Pay attention to the air temperature. When the manufacturer says the concrete should be clean and dry, they mean it. If in doubt, clean the concrete with soap and water using a stiff push broom. Thoroughly rinse the surface to remove dirt, soap, etc. Let the slab dry, possibly for a day or two, to ensure that it is totally dry. Generally, the best time to do this type of work is during the summer months. This way you can let the hot sun dry the slab quickly and thoroughly.

Also, WEAR PROTECTIVE CLOTHING and/or EYE WEAR when dealing with these sealants. They can harm your skin and eyes. Avoid using petroleum based sealants indoors, due to the possibility of fire or explosion hazards. These products generate flammable and/or explosive fumes as they dry. BE CAREFUL!

Fair Contractor Payment Schedule

Posted on by Tim Carter

125 Plus Item Cost Breakdown List

The following list will absolutely provide you with a way to zero in on the actual cost of your planned home. One of the biggest nightmares with new home construction is failing to identify a cost item. I once goofed up on a bid (I was in a rush) because I was using a hand held calculator with no tape instead of my own list! The mistake cost me $8,000! Ouch!

To obtain an accurate total price, you must have two things: 1. Each major and many minor items listed. 2. Accurate prices for each item - not guesses or allowances! I haven't listed every single nut and bolt item, however, I'll bet that you will be surprised at the detail of the list. If you have a specialized job and know of an item I could include, please contact me. I have provided extra blank spaces at the end of the list in case you need to add items.

The list below works best with the questions and extra documentation I provide for in my New Home Construction Checklist. If you REALLY want a package to help you build that new home check out the New House Specifications offering at my website.

 

Disappearing Contractors

Posted on by Tim Carter

Payment Problems

Do you know someone who has had a contractor disappear and not come back to finish a job? Do you think that would happen if the contractor was owed a significant amount of money? In most instances, the contractor has actually walked away with extra money!

Homeowners routinely advance more money to contractors than they should. The result is that you, the homeowner, have now become a lending institution. You have now LENT money to the contractor and you're now HOPING  the contractor will PAY BACK the money in the form of work. What a mistake! Don't get into the lending business.

Usually this problem starts at the beginning of the job when a customer has little leverage. You, the customer, want the contractor to hurry and start the job. You can't wait. In a trance, you will do whatever the contractor says. Your judgment is clouded, not quite unlike what happens the moment you walk into a new car showroom.

The contractor asks for money upfront - a deposit - a good faith statement - or some other hogwash. You offer it up. You are now playing the game of catch-up baseball.

Think.

Do you give money to the store manager at the grocery and THEN go pick your stuff off the shelves? Do you pay the restaurant in advance for your steak dinner? Do you pay in advance for your dry-cleaning?

The point is simple. This is the policy you should follow with contractors.

Here's more.

Do you think the contractor pays his employees in advance?

Do you think he pays his subcontractors IN ADVANCE for their work?

Does he pay his suppliers IN ADVANCE for the materials for your job?

The answer to those question is:

NO!

So WHY should you pay the contractor in advance?

You shouldn't.

The only time it's REASONABLE for you to pay some money in advance, or forward a deposit, is for special order or custom goods.

Some contractors use your money to pay the bills from the jobs they finished months ago. If you end up at the end of this string (and mind you this happens every week somewhere), you will become very friendly with your attorney.

The Solution

I urge you to find a financially stable, trustworthy, knowledgeable contractor. They are out there. Usually these individuals will agree to a fair, timely payment schedule. They will discuss with you progress payments.

They are entitled to a portion of their profit and overhead with each payment. It is unfair for you to hold this over their heads until the conclusion of the job. Click on the following to use as a basis for a fair payment schedule for your job.