Concrete Life Maximized

Posted on by Tim Carter

Reinforcing Steel

Concrete has very little "tensile" strength. Concrete, which has not been reinforced, will crack when subjected to tension. This can be illustrated quite easily. Pour a piece of concrete 8 feet long, 1 foot wide and 4 inches thick. Let it dry for 28 days. Put two concrete blocks on end and lift the piece of concrete onto the blocks so as to make a table or bridge. Begin to stack concrete blocks in the middle of your "bridge." Before long, the concrete will crack and your bridge will collapse. Watch out for your feet and hands, if you really decide to do this! By adding the concrete blocks to the "bridge," you caused it to bend or 'stretch' in the middle. This is tension.

Concrete reinforcing steel is designed specifically for strengthening concrete. It comes in different diameters. Usually, 1/2" and 5/8" is used in residential construction. The use of this type of steel in your concrete drives, sidewalks, patios, etc. will significantly lengthen the life of your concrete. The steel will minimize cracking. It actually holds the concrete together when you subject it to tension. You subject concrete to tension when you do the following things: drive across it, push against it, subject it to freeze/thaw cycles, concentrate loads on it, etc.

In the event a slab develops a crack, the presence of steel reinforcing rods will keep the concrete from spreading apart or offsetting. Offsetting is where one portion of a slab is higher than the other portion after it cracks. This steel is not very expensive in relation to the cost of having to replace the concrete. A good spacing for these bars is 2 foot on center both directions. While this may seem like an excessive amount, it really will go a long way in strengthening your slabs. Be sure that the steel ends up close to the middle of the concrete slab. The concrete must surround the steel to be effective. If it is too close to the bottom or top of the slab it will be a waste of time and money.

Want perfect concrete work? Find a pro by using my Concrete Work (Sidewalks, Driveways, Patios & Steps) Checklist. I offer a 100% Money Back Guarantee.

Pouring Conditions

Most people think that the best time to pour and finish concrete is on a sunny, breezy, hot day. Wrong! The best results can be achieved if you pour concrete on an overcast, damp day with an air temperature around 55 F. If the temperature were to stay at 55 F for three to four days, it would be ideal. Temperature extremes (hot or cold) are bad for concrete. Windy days can cause too much water to evaporate from the surface too rapidly. Plastic shrinkage cracks will develop. These can severely diminish the quality of the surface of the slab. If you must pour on a hot sunny day, try somehow to erect a temporary tent or screen to keep the sun from beating down on the slab. It does not need the extra heat from the sun!

If you must pour in cold weather, be sure to cover the slab as soon as it is finished with insulating blankets, straw and plastic, or some other insulating material. Keep this cover on for at least 72 hours. As the concrete hardens, a chemical reaction is taking place (exothermic) which actually generates heat. You must store this heat so that the fresh concrete will not freeze.

Curing Compounds

Immediately after you put the final finish on concrete, you should apply a curing compound. This is EXTREMELY important. The water which was added to mix the concrete must not be allowed to evaporate from the slab!

The process of concrete drying is called hydration. This is a two step process. The first step occurs in the first few hours after you mix the concrete. This is why you are able to put a finish on the concrete. Each minute that passes after you add water to the sand, gravel, and cement mixture, calcium carbonate crystals begin to grow. After so many minutes enough crystals have grown to allow the concrete to become "stiff." The crystals MUST have water in order to grow.

These crystals continue to grow for weeks and weeks after you first mixed the concrete. If you allow water to evaporate from the slab, the crystals will stop growing and you will have severely weakened concrete. It's that simple! Only a fool would go to all the trouble and expense of pouring a slab and then not apply curing compound.

If you cannot afford curing compound you have several other alternatives. You can cover the slab completely with plastic. You must seal the edges with dirt so that air or wind does not get between the plastic and the slab. This could cause water to evaporate. Another method is to keep the slab wet with damp burlap or other rags. This is very labor intensive and a great waste of water. You must continually monitor the burlap to be sure that it is constantly wet. You must also figure out a way to keep the burlap from blowing away in windy conditions.

Concrete Sealants

Posted on by Tim Carter

Sealant Varieties: Solvent or Acrylic Based

There are many varieties of sealants currently on the market. Some are solvent based (petroleum based), while others are acrylic based (water based). Some are clear, while others are colored. You have many to choose from.

Some sealants penetrate into the concrete, while others merely create a film on the surface. The penetrating sealers generally perform much better. Try to use a penetrating sealant, if at all possible.

Non-Breathable Sealants

Some sealants have compounds in them which virtually prohibits water from being absorbed by the concrete. In certain instances, these sealants also inhibit the passage of water vapor from the slab to the air above the slab. These sealants are often referred to as non-breathable. This property can be detrimental depending upon the climate. Sealants containing compounds which do not breathe should be avoided in climates where temperatures drop below freezing (32 F) for extended periods.

The reason for this is quite simple. Concrete slabs can absorb water from two directions. They can absorb water from rainfall or surface runoff on top of the surface, or they can absorb water from the soil beneath the slab. The water from beneath the slab is actually drawn to the surface as water vapor. Without a sealant, this water can evaporate from the surface.

However, if you seal the concrete with a non-breathable sealant, a barrier is created which the water vapor cannot easily penetrate. During cold weather, this water vapor can freeze and cause the surface of the concrete to flake. There are sealants which contain compounds which allow them to breathe. Often these sealants are clearly labeled as to whether or not they do, in fact, breathe. Consider using these if you live in a cold climate.

Before Using a Sealant

When using sealants, it is EXTREMELY IMPORTANT to follow the manufacturer's directions and instructions. I can't emphasize this enough. Read the directions carefully before opening the product. Pay attention to the air temperature. When the manufacturer says the concrete should be clean and dry, they mean it. If in doubt, clean the concrete with soap and water using a stiff push broom. Thoroughly rinse the surface to remove dirt, soap, etc. Let the slab dry, possibly for a day or two, to ensure that it is totally dry. Generally, the best time to do this type of work is during the summer months. This way you can let the hot sun dry the slab quickly and thoroughly.

Also, WEAR PROTECTIVE CLOTHING and/or EYE WEAR when dealing with these sealants. They can harm your skin and eyes. Avoid using petroleum based sealants indoors, due to the possibility of fire or explosion hazards. These products generate flammable and/or explosive fumes as they dry. BE CAREFUL!

Fair Contractor Payment Schedule

Posted on by Tim Carter

125 Plus Item Cost Breakdown List

The following list will absolutely provide you with a way to zero in on the actual cost of your planned home. One of the biggest nightmares with new home construction is failing to identify a cost item. I once goofed up on a bid (I was in a rush) because I was using a hand held calculator with no tape instead of my own list! The mistake cost me $8,000! Ouch!

To obtain an accurate total price, you must have two things: 1. Each major and many minor items listed. 2. Accurate prices for each item - not guesses or allowances! I haven't listed every single nut and bolt item, however, I'll bet that you will be surprised at the detail of the list. If you have a specialized job and know of an item I could include, please contact me. I have provided extra blank spaces at the end of the list in case you need to add items.

The list below works best with the questions and extra documentation I provide for in my New Home Construction Checklist. If you REALLY want a package to help you build that new home check out the New House Specifications offering at my website.

 

Disappearing Contractors

Posted on by Tim Carter

Payment Problems

Do you know someone who has had a contractor disappear and not come back to finish a job? Do you think that would happen if the contractor was owed a significant amount of money? In most instances, the contractor has actually walked away with extra money!

Homeowners routinely advance more money to contractors than they should. The result is that you, the homeowner, have now become a lending institution. You have now LENT money to the contractor and you're now HOPING  the contractor will PAY BACK the money in the form of work. What a mistake! Don't get into the lending business.

Usually this problem starts at the beginning of the job when a customer has little leverage. You, the customer, want the contractor to hurry and start the job. You can't wait. In a trance, you will do whatever the contractor says. Your judgment is clouded, not quite unlike what happens the moment you walk into a new car showroom.

The contractor asks for money upfront - a deposit - a good faith statement - or some other hogwash. You offer it up. You are now playing the game of catch-up baseball.

Think.

Do you give money to the store manager at the grocery and THEN go pick your stuff off the shelves? Do you pay the restaurant in advance for your steak dinner? Do you pay in advance for your dry-cleaning?

The point is simple. This is the policy you should follow with contractors.

Here's more.

Do you think the contractor pays his employees in advance?

Do you think he pays his subcontractors IN ADVANCE for their work?

Does he pay his suppliers IN ADVANCE for the materials for your job?

The answer to those question is:

NO!

So WHY should you pay the contractor in advance?

You shouldn't.

The only time it's REASONABLE for you to pay some money in advance, or forward a deposit, is for special order or custom goods.

Some contractors use your money to pay the bills from the jobs they finished months ago. If you end up at the end of this string (and mind you this happens every week somewhere), you will become very friendly with your attorney.

The Solution

I urge you to find a financially stable, trustworthy, knowledgeable contractor. They are out there. Usually these individuals will agree to a fair, timely payment schedule. They will discuss with you progress payments.

They are entitled to a portion of their profit and overhead with each payment. It is unfair for you to hold this over their heads until the conclusion of the job. Click on the following to use as a basis for a fair payment schedule for your job.

Finding Qualified Contractors

Posted on by Tim Carter

Anxiety is a very common emotion felt by people who are about to begin a massive building or remodeling project. Huge sums of money are often in the balance. Fifteen or 20 year mortgages are signed. It is serious business. It is no wonder that people get nervous or anxious. Unfortunately, not everyone invests the proper amount of time in selecting the right contractor for the job. A homeowner may select a real bottom feeder. Believe me, there is one in every 'sea'.

Boilerplate Laundry List

Every year I see an article in the paper about how to choose a contractor. I see the same old checklist each time. You know, the one that says to call the Better Business Bureau, ask for references, visit completed jobs, etc. Only a small percentage of people ever do these things. Guess what? You can do those things, get good reports, and still end up with an unqualified contractor. The process of finding a good contractor is involved, takes effort on your part and sometimes is a function of pure luck.

The Root of the Problem

There are probably several basic reasons why you have such a hard time finding a reputable, reliable, trustworthy contractor. The one that I feel is foremost is the fact the industry, as a whole, does not require a formal education. In other words, you and your neighbor can go into business tomorrow hanging drywall or finishing concrete. Not only have you probably never read a technical manual on all the aspects of these tasks, there is a better than 50/50 chance the contractor you do intend to hire has not read anything. The industry is loaded to the gills with people who 'think' they know how to do things right. Very few contractors have a solid background based upon written facts developed by manufacturers, associations and the industry as a whole. This means you need to get educated about the work you plan to do. Armed with this education you will be able to ask pointed questions to contractors. By default you will find the one who has the best understanding of what to do.

Hot Water Heater Venting

Posted on by Tim Carter

Old Chimneys

Millions of old homes years ago used to heat with coal. Based upon years of experience, heating contractors and masons knew what size chimneys worked for what size furnaces. Engineers also had developed formulas for large industrial chimneys and smokestacks.

When coal was pushed aside by natural gas the chimneys still functioned quite well. The temperature of the exhaust leaving the furnace was slightly reduced, but the draft was not adversely affected. Coal burns hotter than natural gas in the first place. The old furnaces were not nearly as efficient as today's. In fact, old coal furnaces possibly only delivered into the living space 50 to 55 percent of the heat they created. The rest went up the chimney.

This wasted heat kept the chimney warm, almost hot, between times of peak firing. Older gas furnaces did the same, but chimney temperatures dropped slightly. Why? Well, the furnace people determined how to extract more heat from the combustion process.

The Orphaning Process

High efficiency furnaces - those that deliver 90 percent or more of the combustion heat - are great for your checkbook (fuel savings) but this saved money and more is often being spent by many homeowners on chimney, plaster and repainting costs.

It is not uncommon for your gas hot water heater and furnace to vent into the same chimney. The chimney was originally sized for the furnace (probably coal) AND your hot water heater.

The new high efficiency furnaces often are required to vent to the exterior through PVC pipe. They often do not even use the chimney. This leaves the hot water heater by itself.

A Rain Forest Waterfall ... But Not in the Chimney!

An orphaned water heater in an oversized chimney creates a huge moisture problem. Cold winter air is heavy and is constantly trying to sneak into your house by slipping down the chimney.

When the old furnaces and hot water heaters were in the same vent, they produced ample heat and draft to combat the heavy, cold air.

Orphaned water heaters vent into colder chimneys. The exhaust from the combustion of natural gas contains massive amounts of water vapor. Because of the cold conditions inside the oversized chimney, the water vapor condenses inside the chimney. Soon it is "raining" inside your chimney. This water soaks into the brick and begins to make its appearance known by bubbles in paint, efflorescence on plaster and stains. The only solution is to install a metal liner that reduces the inner diameter of the chimney, or to create a reduced flue size by some other approved means.

Hot Water Heater Venting

Different associations are currently working hard to modify/change existing code requirements for fuel burning appliances. It is a tough assignment. Lots of tests have to be successfully completed and officials convinced of their accuracy before venting requirements will change. Until the changes are made, here is what you should do with your hot water heater:

  • The inside cross sectional area of the flue should be no greater than seven times the cross sectional area of the flue pipe that leaves the heater.
  • Never reduce the size of the vent pipe that leaves the heater.
  • Try to get as much vertical rise AT THE TOP of the heater as possible. This allows the exhaust gas to build speed before hitting an obstacle. A 90 degree bend on top of the heater is an obstacle! Make sure the mason roughs in the thimble as high as code will permit.

Author's Note: We've received other questions about the similar problems. Here's one from Roger Beauman of New Athens, IL:

"I have an old 2 1/2 story frame home build 1896. I recently replaced the furnace with a high efficiency unit. I have a gas water heater now the sole use of the chimney. During the summer, I get high levels of CO - carbon monoxide in the house if the temp is sustained at 98 or above. No issues at night, just in the heat of the day. We currently keep several CO - carbon monoxide detectors going and turn the water heater off during the day when we see elevated CO - carbon monoxide levels. Is there a fix for this?"

Hot Water Heater Tips

Posted on by Tim Carter

Performance Levels

Are you dissatisfied with the performance of your heater? Does it run out of water too soon? Does it take too long to heat up again? Did you know that the SAME gallon capacity heater can heat water at different rates? This is a well-kept secret many people are unaware of.

The burner at the base of the heater comes in different sizes. The bigger the burner, the faster it can heat water. Often the burner size is related to the warranty. I believe this is a decision the stocking distributor makes. In other words, here in Cincinnati, if you want the powerful large burner, you have to buy a heater with a 10 year warranty. It is worth it! Be sure to investigate this when you purchase your next water heater.

What is the Right Size?

Choosing the correct sized hot water heater depends upon the fuel source. Gas (natural or LP/propane) produces hot water faster than electricity. If your family has five or more people and you use lots of hot water, you should have a 75 gallon gas hot water heater. If you want the ultimate in performance and can afford it, get a commercial hot water heater. These have very large burners and can really heat water quickly. A family with three or four members can usually get by with a 50 gallon heater.

Remember, you can extract more hot water from your tank if you raise the temperature setting. Because you temper the hot water with cold water to make 'lukewarm' water, you will use less volume of hot water from your heater when you wash dishes and take a shower. This means that the 50 gallons of heated water will go a lot farther. DANGER! Be aware that doing this creates a burn hazard. If you raise the temperature too high in the heater (anything over 125 F) you can cause a child, an elderly friend or yourself to get burned!

If you use electric to heat your water, a high demand family of five or more will require a 120 gallon heater. The average family can get by with an 80 gallon tank.

Insulating Heater Tanks

You can purchase hot water heater covers to help insulate the tanks. Don't install one of these unless you are certain the manufacturer permits it. There is always the possibility that adding a kit like this could void the warranty.

Burping & Bubbling

Does your heater groan, bubble, burp, etc. as it heats water? If so, this is a sign of sediment buildup at the base of the tank. The sediment is expanding and popping as it heats. Sediment is bad because it creates a barrier for the burner heat to pass through on its way to the water. Drain one gallon of water from the heater each month.

Shut Off & Temperature/Pressure Valves

If you install a new heater on your own, DO NOT install a shut off valve on the hot water outlet water line. Only install a valve on the cold water side. If a valve is on both lines, and some idiot turns them off while the heater is on, AND the Temperature / Pressure valve fails......BOOM! It has happened before, I have seen a heater go from a basement through two floors and a roof and end up 150 feet away. NEVER re-use a Temperature / Pressure valve from your old water heater. Always buy a new one.

Chimney Liners & Stainless Steel Alloys

Posted on by Tim Carter

How many older homes do you think are standing in the U.S. that have unlined brick chimneys or have a single flue that currently services two or more fuel burning appliances? Five, 10, 20 million? I don't know the answer, but I would say it is very close to 20 million. One thing is for sure, there are millions of houses that currently have lower efficiency gas furnaces that vent into a chimney. These furnaces will probably be replaced within the next 10 to 15 years with high efficiency units that do not vent into a chimney. If your house is one of these, you will need to deal with an older masonry chimney that very likely will be too large for the orphaned appliances in your house.

Stainless Steel Alloys

This is where the stainless steel alloy chimney liners come in. These products allow you to create ideal drafting conditions using an oversized masonry chimney. A flexible metal pipe is snaked into the chimney extending from the top of the chimney to the thimble area where the vent pipe attaches to the chimney. As you might expect they come in various sizes and materials.

One might think that the ideal material for these liners would be high grade 304 stainless steel. Well, the flexible pipe manufacturers tried this and the chlorides in the exhaust vapor of natural gas caused corrosion. So, look for stainless steel alloy liners that carry this labeling: AL 29 - 4C. This is your assurance that you are getting a top quality metal flue liner.

Pipe Companies

Also pay attention to the warranties offered by the different pipe companies. They are not the same! It is also a great idea to ask for installation literature. You should always read this literature, even if you don't plan to install the pipe yourself. Knowing how to install the pipe allows you to ask pointed questions of the contractors you interview. If the contractor can't answer the questions, you know you have a rookie! Don't try to install these pipes if you have the slightest fear of working on roofs. It is dangerous work!

The companies listed below are wholesale distributors. All of them make flexible pipe but some make rigid pipe as well. Be sure to pay attention to sizing! Don't get a liner that is too small or too big.

  • Copperfield Chimney Supply
  • Bernard Dalsin Company
  • Sand Hill Wholesale

Author's Note: We've received other questions about the similar problems. Here's one from Roger Beauman of New Athens, IL:

"I have an old 2 1/2 story frame home build 1896. I recently replaced the furnace with a high efficiency unit. I have a gas water heater now the sole use of the chimney. During the summer, I get high levels of CO - carbon monoxide in the house if the temp is sustained at 98 or above. No issues at night, just in the heat of the day. We currently keep several CO - carbon monoxide detectors going and turn the water heater off during the day when we see elevated CO - carbon monoxide levels. Is there a fix for this?"

Fireplace Design & Installation

Posted on by Tim Carter

One of the most aggravating things in a home is a smoking fireplace. Smoke billows into the air, the smoke detector is blaring and you may have a window or door open that is chilling the room. I think I would rather get poked in the eye with a sharp stick than have a smoking fireplace!

Fireplace Design Relationships

The process of exhausting smoke and toxic gases from a fire is a complex process. Out in the open, a fire burns in any fashion it desires. The smoke rises and reacts to wind changes. In your house things are quite different. You burn the fire in a controlled space. The smoke is supposed to go up. The maximum amount of heat is supposed to radiate back into the room. These things are possible so long as you understand fireplace design relationships.

The combustion process of a fire is complex. The flames of a fire go willy nilly. Smoke rolls around in the firebox. Add to that the battle of the hot air and smoke trying to get up the chimney while the cold outside air wants to fall down the chimney. If everything isn't just right, you will get smoke in your house.

Smoke-Free Fireplaces

Smoke-free fireplaces must conform to specific firebox height, width and depth, flue size and chimney height requirements. Make a mistake in any one of these areas and you can be in a smoke-filled room!

The first element of fireplace design lies in sizing the fireplace for a room. You wouldn't put a small three foot wide fireplace in an auditorium. It simply couldn't keep the room warm. A room with a square footage of say 150 square feet can be heated with a fireplace with a 24 to 30 inch width. A large room (15 feet x 28 feet) may require a fireplace with a 4 foot or larger opening.

The point is this. You must first determine the width of your fireplace opening. Once you have this width, all other dimensions can be computed.

Low Chimneys

About six weeks ago, I was hired by some people for a consultation. They had a new home with a number of problems. One of the problems involved a prefabricated fireplace that smoked. Prefabricated fireplaces are almost always designed properly. The height, width and depth of the firebox are correct. The smoke chamber and throat of the firebox are also in proportion. The only possibility for mistake lies in the flue size and chimney height.

In this case, the fireplace was located in a first floor family room. The family room was adjacent to the two story house. The chimney was due southeast of the main part of the house. Our prevailing winds here in Cincinnati are from the northwest during the winter months.

I determined that this fireplace smoked because of a chimney that was too low. The winter winds blow over the two story portion of the house and dive down toward the family room roof. On any given day, there was enough wind pressure to offset the hot air and smoke which was trying to get out of the chimney. Yes, hot air rises, but it only has so much energy.

In this case, the chimney needed to be extended to offset the diving winds.

Chimneys that are not influenced by tall surrounding structures actually benefit from wind. The wind actually creates a partial vacuum as it blows across the top of the chimney. This vacuum helps lift the smoke and gases from the firebox.

Sound Construction

If you are building a new fireplace, you need to pay particular attention to the building code and the types of materials you are using. Fireplaces are very dangerous. Houses burn down every year from defective fireplaces or chimneys. If you don't know what you are doing, you had better consult your building inspector or an experienced, qualified mason.

There are many excellent publications that go into great detail concerning fireplace construction. I could write thousands of words about proper fireplace and chimney construction. However, there is no need to reinvent the wheel. You or your bricklayer simply need to search the existing literature citations.

Fixing an Existing Problem

I know, I know, you're wondering what to do about your existing smoking fireplace. Well, the answer may not be simple. The first place to start is to make a drawing of your fireplace. Add dimensions to your drawing. Compare your drawing to the sizes given in the table shown in Fireplace Design & Dimensions column.

If your firebox dimensions and shape are OK, then maybe the problem lies in your flue size or chimney height. The easiest thing to fix is the height of your chimney. Although often expensive, it is the easiest. If you discover that your firebox, smoke chamber and/or flue size are incorrect, there is no simple solution. The only way to solve the problem may be to start over. Ouch!

Are you building a new home? If so, you must study the following table and read the literature sources I have cited. This small investment in time will allow you peace of mind and a smoke-free home.

By the way, if you have gas available, absolutely pipe a gas supply to that new fireplace. The day may come when you dislike messing with wood. The gas line with a gas valve in place will allow you the flexibility to install gas logs at some future time. In the meantime, the gas line can be connected to a nifty gas lighter kit! No more kindling wood!

Combustion and Makeup Air

Sometimes fireplaces smoke because of another problem. They are suffocating! What do I mean by that, you ask? A roaring fire consumes massive amounts of air. If you have a new air tight house, where does this air come from? Believe it or not, the fireplace may suck the required air straight down the chimney!

Model building codes have required combustion air sources on all residential fireplaces. However, if you forget to open it or it is partially closed, the fireplace may not get enough air. Old houses are susceptible as well. In our pursuit of energy conservation, we purchase new windows and doors, caulk cracks, etc. These were the places the fireplace was getting its air supply. Check to make sure your fireplace combustion air inlet is open. If you don't have one, think about installing a source of air to offset what is going up the chimney.

Chimney Construction Resources

Posted on by Tim Carter

Chimney Construction Literature

The Brick Industry Association (http://www.bia.org) has published some wonderful technical information concerning the construction, design and maintenance of chimneys. I recommend that you go to the Technical Notes section of their web site and read the following articles:

  • Technical Notes on Brick Construction 19A
    Residential Fireplaces Details and Construction

  • Technical Notes on Brick Construction 19B
    Residential Chimneys Design and Construction

Cement Stable Chimney Caulks

Believe it or not, there is a huge difference between silicone caulks. The word silicone, when used with caulk covers a broad range of different ingredients. Some of these ingredients actually begin to break down in the presence of alkaline substances. Guess what concrete and brick mortar have in high abundance? You're right! Alkalines!

Well, there are silicone caulks that are not harmed by alkaline substances. These are the silicone caulks that contain a high amount of silanes. Silanes are a member of the silicone family. As you might imagine, you will never see the word silane on the side of a caulk tube. So how do you know? Well, the silane silicone caulks usually are the ones with the longest and best warranty.That is one way to shop for them.

Also, quite a few manufacturers actually identify their cement stable silicone caulks as concrete caulk or mortar patch caulk. The major brand name manufacturers almost all have a line of these masonry repair caulks and clearly label them for this purpose.

Filling Large, Deep Voids

The space around a chimney crown might be very deep. One could use three, four or maybe five tubes of very expensive caulk. The professionals, who caulk cracks like this, use a caulk backing material. This is simply a foam product which fills the void to within 3/4 inch of the surface. The remaining gap is then filled with the caulking material.

The following manufacturers make cement stable silicone caulks. Look for their products at your local home center.

  • DAP
  • Dow Corning
  • Franklin International Titebond
  • GE Silicones

Are you one of the manufacturers listed above? Do you want your company name to be a link to your website? Click here.

Repairing an Existing Damaged Crown

OK, after reading this bulletin you decide to get up and look at your chimney crown. After the inspection you determine that it needs some attention. Yes, I know there is no overhang with a drip kerf. Also, the bricklayer went and poured the cap right against the flue liner. What a goofus! Should you get the sledge hammer out and start over? Maybe not.

I am aware of a repair method that may allow you to install a waterproof system right over the top of your existing chimney crown. It is ChimneySaver's CrownSeal.

Evidently, this system is installed by chimney sweeps and chimney repair specialists all across the nation. It is not a DIY project. The system works by applying a special waterproof flashing material directly on top of your existing crown. A flexible expansion material is placed beneath this flashing against the edge of the flue liner. A special waterproof coating is then applied on top of the flashing to finish off the job. The completed repair looks just about the same as your crown before the repair was started.

Would you like names of individuals close to your home who can install it? If so, go to the ChimneySaver web site and type in your zip code!