Chimney Inspection Costs 2021

There are several advantages of having a chimney in your home, but if you don't take the proper precautions and measures to keep it safely up and running, you can cause more harm than good to you and your home. Cozy fires are great on winter nights, but a house fire will always be a strong possibility if your chimney isn't inspected regularly.

In fact, chimney fires happen as often as more than 25,000 a year in our country. Simply put, it's just not worth the few bucks you save by ignoring basic responsibilities that prevent significant disasters.

If you're wondering where to start, you're at the right place. Being informed and prepared for chimney inspections and their costs ensure you know what you're getting into and how much you'll need to get the job done.

Here are some FAQs you'll get accurate answers to:

• What Is The Average Cost Of A Chimney Inspection?
• What Is The Cost Of A Chimney Inspection By Level?
• What Is The Average Cost For Chimney Camera Inspection? 
• What Are The Signs You Need A Chimney Inspection? 
• How Often Should You Get Your Chimney Inspected?
• What Are The Additional Costs And Considerations for Chimney Inspection?
• How To Avoid Chimney Inspection Scams?
• How To Save Money On Chimney Inspection?

What Is The Average Cost Of A Chimney Inspection?

For a chimney inspection, the national average is $450, with the range between $300 and $600. You can also expect maximum costs to hit as high as $5,000, with minimum costs going as low as $85 in some cases.

To be clear, this is just the national average. It is no real estimation of what you will pay because there are so many contributing factors that go into final costs, including roof accessibility and the type of chimney. 

What Is The Cost Of A Chimney Inspection By Level?

The inspection level you need plays a significant role in the amount of money you will have to pay professionals. From lowest to highest, pricing increases with your chimney's threat level and the amount of time, work, and resources that need to go into ensuring your chimney is safe and running properly. 

Level 1

Level 1 covers a fundamental visual inspection with very little in-depth examining of your chimney. It is the least costly and most regularly requested inspection but only needed if you want the yearly examination but suspect no real issues. This inspection can also lead to level 2 or 3 if bigger problems are suspected and the chimney inspector suggests a more in-depth investigation.

Chimney Safety Institute of America (CSIA) explains that level 1 is when the technician checks areas that are "readily accessible," with special attention to "basic soundness of the chimney structure and flue as well as the basic appliance installation and connections.” It continues, “The technician will also verify the chimney is free of obstruction and combustible deposits."

Cost: $79 to $200

Level 2

Level 2 inspections include level 1 and special attention to changes made in your chimney system like your chimney liner (or chimney flue) and fuel change, also, after an external event or a major malfunction. In many cases, this inspection can include camera inspections to investigate flues further. However, nothing is popped open for a closer look unless you need level 3.

This level sometimes even includes checking your crawl space and basement for chimney safety.

CSIA also says that level 2 inspections are "required upon the sale or transfer of a property."

Cost: $100 to $500

Level 3

Level 3 inspections are the most thorough inspections you can get. These are often reserved for the more serious problems that require the removal of specific components to investigate the entire chimney wall and other parts of the chimney for structural damage, combustion exposure (carbon monoxide), and more. 

It includes level 1 and 2 inspections and is usually only requested when the issue seems significant or hazardous.

Cost: $1,000 to $5,000

What Is The Average Cost For Chimney Camera Inspection?

In some cases, chimney camera inspections can be included in your basic inspection, but you can always find a company that doesn't use them and charges less. However, camera inspections allow technicians to get a better visual look into parts of your chimney that they may not otherwise be able to see clearly. 

With that being said, you can expect to pay on average about $200 to $600. This number doesn't represent local quotes directly since your location and other factors can move the needle in either direction. For instance, adding a chimney sweep to your inspection can be an additional cost. 

Always shop around for affordable quotes to find the best offer in town. 

What Are The Signs You Need A Chimney Inspection?

It's smart to keep up with annual inspections but even smarter to pay attention to signs all year round to avoid any further problems that can be prevented.

Here are 6 signs to keep an eye out for:

1. Water on the floor of your firebox can be an indication of leaks or damages to your chimney cap. 
2. Weird odors could be a sign of creosote buildup in the flue. 
3. Smoke coming back into the house could be due to your flues and should be addressed immediately since it contains carbon monoxide. 
4. Cracking or crumbling of the exterior masonry can lead to bigger problems and higher costs.
5. Clicking sounds from the firebox warrant an immediate inspection because it can be a sign of a chimney fire.
6. Chimney discoloration can be minor or severe, depending on the source of the discoloration. Having an inspector look into the problem will prevent any significant problems down the road.

How Often Should You Get Your Chimney Inspected?

The National Fire Protection Association Standard 211 says, "Chimneys, fireplaces, and vents shall be inspected at least once a year for soundness, freedom from deposits, and correct clearances.”

Besides annual inspections, you should request an inspection based on any suspicions of damage or hazards and after any major events that could've caused problems. 

What Are The Additional Costs And Considerations for Chimney Inspection?

While considering your options for getting an inspection, there are other cost factors to keep in mind, as well. A lot of times, the inspection can lead to costly repairs or vary depending on location and accessibility. 

Here a few additional costs to think about when considering your budget.

Accessibility 

You may not know this, but professionals charge extra if you have multiple levels or a steep roof and they need to access your chimney cap. This is because it puts them in a hazardous situation and costs more for them to take the risk. Chimney type can even play a role in final costs, depending on how difficult it is to work with. 

Location

The location should always be factored into costs when getting any inspections, repairs, renovations, and improvements because it differs from state-to-state. For instance, cities like New York will have higher service costs than the lower-cost of giving locations like El Paso, Texas. 

Chimney Sweep (Chimney Cleaning)

The decision to add chimney sweeping to your inspection can also increase costs. However, it is still highly recommended because a good chimney sweep every year reduces blockages, creosote buildup and cleans out your damper (or venting) for better airflow. 

Chimney sweeps are a major part of your annual chimney maintenance, so we suggest always adding it to your chimney services to ensure that no other problems lead to bigger repairs (like flue liner replacements). 

Wood burning chimneys really need cleaning services to remove the build-up of creosote that coats the chimney walls. However, gas fireplaces need to be factored into cleaning costs, too, because even though they don't create creosote, chimney cleaning can remove objects like a bird's nest, animals, and more.

Chimney Repairs 

The video below will help you stay organized with your chimney repair checklist.

Fireplace cleanings aren't the only additions that can be added to your inspection costs. The reason you're getting the inspection is to check for damages, hazards, and potential repairs, so it's only smart that you consider the potential for extra costs after inspections. 

Depending on the severity of the problem, this could mean big bucks, but that's not always the case. Nonetheless, it's always better to be safe than sorry by being prepared but not worrying too much until your results come in.

Water Damage

If water gets into your chimney, this can cause many more problems for you to factor in. If it isn’t caught in time, you could be looking at damper and firebox rust or even liner deterioration. Be sure to mention any possibilities of moisture damage to your chimney inspector to ensure that everything is checked thoroughly. 

How To Avoid Chimney Inspection Scams?

As much as you want to save money when you can, the best way to avoid chimney inspection scams is to be informed on at least the basics of what you need and to pay close attention to the company you decide to hire.

Don't be afraid to do your research. Check other customer experiences and results, BBB ratings, and ask around for recommendations. Also, vet professionals with a reputable history. 

Most importantly, never go with the cheapest company for the sake of saving money. Remember, you get what you pay for! If you cut corners with a cheap company, you're likely to get cheap service from a technician who can miss many signs and problems that need to be attended to. 

How To Save Money On Chimney Inspection?

You should always look into anything and everything that you can save money on without putting you or your home in danger. Home repairs, renovations, inspections, and installations can sometimes become a financial burden, but they come with the contract of being a responsible homeowner. 

Fortunately, there are a few ways to save:

• Warranty - Look into what your warranty covers and make sure to take advantage of it when you can. It's there for a reason!
• Explore your options - Choosing the first company you meet is a big mistake because it may be twice as expensive as others with the same qualifications and expertise. Shopping around ensures that you get the best bang for your buck.
• Be involved and ask questions - It's also important that you stay involved in the inspection and ask questions about methods and recommendations. This helps reduce the likelihood that you will be duped into extra expenses you don't need.

Homeowners insurance - This is an option if you find your problem's source is closely related to a hazard covered in your insurance but does not often cover inspections specifically. It's always better to discuss this with an agent for confirmation.

Chimney Flashing Repair Costs 2021

Chimney flashing is a critical barrier between your home's interior and the outdoors. While flashing can last for many years in harsh environmental conditions, gaps, holes, and worn areas can appear over time. It is therefore important to perform annual inspections, maintenance, and repairs on your chimney and flashing to ensure that it is in good condition. 

Left unchecked, damaged chimney flashing can allow moisture, debris, and pests into your home and harm your roofing, attic, and interior. Buildup of combustible material can create blockages in your chimney, compromise your chimney's venting processes, disrupting airflow and allowing carbon monoxide and smoke to enter your home. Left unchecked, these blockages can even result in chimney fires.

If you are looking for pricing and advice on how to repair your chimney flashing, you are in the right place! In this guide, we will answer the following FAQ:

• What is chimney flashing?
• What are the signs that you need to repair your chimney flashing?
• What is the average cost to have your chimney flashing repaired?
• Can you DIY chimney repair?
• What are the additional costs of chimney repair?
• How can you save money on chimney repair?

For more information about annual chimney maintenance and a repair checklist, watch the video below.

What Is Chimney Flashing?

Chimney flashing is a critical aspect of your roofing and chimney construction for wood burning and gas fireplaces and wood stoves. It provides a much-needed layer of protection against water infiltration around the chimney where the chimney construction creates a break or penetration in the solid surface of the roof. Flashing incorporates several layers of material, secured with specialized nails and caulking to create a tight, weatherproof seal.

Typically, chimney flashing is composed of two separate layers: step flashing and counter flashing. Step flashing is an L-shaped metal sheet designed to be placed along your chimney, underneath the roof shingles. Counter flashing is an L-shaped piece of metal placed over the step flashing in a pre-cut groove in the chimney. The layers are attached to the roofing and chimney using flashing nails and sealed with caulking to create an impermeable layer that protects your home from water intrusion.

Materials used for chimney flashing vary widely depending on the roofing material and design, chimney type, and local climate. According to the U.S. General Services Administration (GSA), the most common materials are copper, galvanized sheet metal, and terne-coated stainless steel. It is important to ensure that your flashing material is compatible with the roofing system, and that the nails used to attach the flashing are of the same material. Mixing metals can cause corrosion. For example, rainwater reacts with copper flashing in a way that will corrode both galvanized sheet metal and stainless steel.

What Are The Signs That You Need To Repair Your Chimney Flashing?

When it has been installed properly, your chimney flashing can last as long as 30 years, but the service life of your flashing depends largely on the flashing material, chimney size and shape, and local climate. If you aren't sure whether the flashing on your home needs replacement, a good starting point is knowing the age of your house, which should tell you when your chimney was constructed. 

In addition to knowing the age of your home, you should conduct a thorough inspection of your roof, chimney, and flashing to catch any leaks or problems before they become larger issues. With a visual inspection, you can detect the following signs that it's time to repair or replace your chimney flashing: 

• Water leaks inside or outside the chimney
• Puddled water inside the chimney 
• Sedimentation, creosote buildup, and discoloration, on your chimney's bricks
• Rust stains inside and outside the chimney, in the chimney flue, or on the chimney liner
• Water stains inside your home on walls or ceilings around the chimney
• Holes or gaps in the flashing or caulking around the chimney

Since water leaks are one of the primary signs of chimney flashing failure, it is no surprise that chimney owners are more likely to notice flashing problems during the Spring, often the wettest time of year. Melting snow coupled with spring rains introduces more moisture that can leak into your home through cracks and gaps in your flashing. Keep in mind that water damage can occur for a long time before it becomes apparent inside your home, so regular maintenance and inspections are critical. It is equally important to ensure that you repair your chimney flashing as soon as you notice a problem as moisture intrusion problems will only grow worse with time and become more expensive to repair.

What Is The Average Cost To Have Chimney Flashing Repaired?

Every chimney and roof has different needs, and the cost of repairing or replacing flashing can vary widely depending on the flashing, type of chimney, roofing materials, roofing configuration, chimney size, and the amount of damage.

Chimney Flashing Repair and Resealing

If your flashing problem involves a small amount of caulking damage and minimal leakage, you may simply be able to remove the old caulking and reseal your flashing for an amount between $150 and $425. The larger the chimney, the more expensive the sealing cost will be. You can also expect to pay more if your chimney or roof has unusual angles, geometry, or configuration.

Chimney Flashing Replacement

If, on the other hand, the flashing is damaged, rusted, or abraded, you will likely have to replace the chimney flashing altogether. Costs for full replacement of your chimney flashing typically range from $275 to $1450. Similar to repair costs, you can expect chimney flashing replacement to be more expensive for larger chimneys or those with unusual shapes or configurations. The cost will also vary depending on the material you choose for your flashing. Copper flashing tends to be the most expensive, followed by stainless and galvanized steel, and aluminum. Each material offers unique benefits, depending on your local climate. 

Can You DIY Chimney Flashing Repair?

Although fixing or replacing your chimney flashing may seem like a more cost-effective option, it requires skill, dexterity, and experience. Repairs and flashing replacement will typically be conducted on the roof, at a height of 30 feet or greater. For DIY repairs, you will also need to be able to accurately measure the angles between your roof and chimney and know how to adequately nail, caulk, and seal your flashing. In addition, you should be sure to assess the surrounding area, including the chimney, roofing, attic, and interior walls. Damage from leaking flashing may not be immediately apparent, but it is important to ensure that any damage is remediated as soon as possible. Standing water and wet building materials caused by your flashing leak can result in dangerous microbial growth, including mold, mildew, and bacteria, causing health issues for residents and potential structural damage. 

Overall, even though you can DIY chimney flashing repair, it is safer and more cost effective in the long run to have a professional chimney sweep complete an assessment and all repairs. An expert will know how to quickly and efficiently repair your chimney flashing, roofing, chimney flue, and surrounding areas with the right equipment and techniques. They will also know whether a simple repair is sufficient or if a full replacement is needed. What's more, they can help ensure that any damage caused by the leak is repaired in order to prevent any additional problems. 

What Are The Additional Costs Of Chimney Flashing Repair?

In addition to the cost of your chimney flashing, you will need to budget for your chimney inspection costs, cleaning costs, and other chimney services. Damaged flashing can allow unwanted buildup and debris in various parts of the chimney, including the flue liner, chimney walls, and smoke chamber. Your chimney inspector will be able to use the crawl space to investigate the area surrounding your chimney and advise other repair or cleaning services that may be necessary. 

Although chimney flashing repairs can be as simple as resealing the area around the chimney, the damage caused by leaky flashing can inflate repair costs significantly. Moisture can be insidious and result in a significant amount of damage to the brick, mortar, flue, firebox, damper, and other parts of your chimney. Over time, moisture will corrode and break down parts of your roof and chimney, and encourage microbial growth in your roofing material, insulation, attic, and home interior. For these reasons, it is absolutely critical to complete repairs in full when you find that your chimney flashing is damaged or deteriorated. The cost of flashing replacement can be as high as $1450 but can increase significantly if you have to remediate moisture damage to your chimney and home structure. 

How To Save Money On Chimney Flashing Repair?

The most important thing you can do to save yourself money on chimney flashing repair is to conduct regular inspections and maintenance on your roof, chimney, and associated components. Regular attention will allow you to keep your flashing in good condition, and it will help you catch problems before they spread and become more expensive.

Regular Inspections

Have a chimney sweep certified by the Chimney Safety Institute of America (CSIA) perform a level 2 inspection each year and keep an eye out for signs of rust, creosote buildup, or corrosion on your chimney and flashing. Be sure to replace any flashing as soon as it shows signs of deterioration. Quick replacement keeps those corroded areas from becoming holes that allow water to seep into your home.

Caulking and Sealing

Check the caulking and have it touched up or reapplied regularly. This will help to keep a weatherproof barrier between your home and the outdoors. Caulking is one of the first things to go around chimney flashing, but is also the easiest to repair if the damage is caught early.

Roof, Fireplace, and Chimney Maintenance

Since chimney flashing is part of your roofing and chimney systems, fireplace cleaning, chimney sweeping, roof maintenance, and chimney inspections are important to ensuring that your home and chimney are safe. Moisture, corrosive substances, broken tiles and bricks, and other issues can cause damage to your flashing and compromise its effectiveness. Lower your repair and replacement costs by keeping up with your roofing maintenance, chimney cleaning, and repairs. 

Don't Delay Repairs

To cut costs on chimney flashing repairs, be sure to take care of the problem as soon as possible. Waiting only allows water, pests, and other contaminants to intrude further into your home, causing additional damage that is more expensive to repair. Although it may be tempting to put it off until you have more cash on hand, it is more cost-effective to take care of the problem immediately. 

Obtain Financing

If you find that your chimney flashing and home repairs are too much for your current budget, don't worry! There are a host of useful financing options for homeowners that can help you get the repairs you need in a timely fashion and save you money in the long run. Some chimney and roof repair companies will offer financing through their company, but be sure to check into other financing options so you can get the best interest rates. You may be eligible for an FHA Title I Property Improvement Loan through the U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development (HUD). 

By taking care of your chimney flashing issues and keeping a regular maintenance schedule, you can ensure that your home is protected from moisture, debris, pests, and other outdoor intrusions. Correctly installed, repaired, and maintained chimney flashing will keep your home in excellent condition for decades to come!

How Much Does It Cost To Reline A Chimney?

Your home is your safe haven, so it's important to take all the proper precautions to preserve its structure and ensure you and your family's safety. If you have a chimney, this starts with regular maintenance, regular relining checks, and replacements when necessary. 

By not doing so, you risk much more than it's worth - structural damage, injury, or in worst-case scenarios, death. It isn't a job that should ever be put off or not taken seriously. In fact, the dangers are so real that more than 25,000 house fires occur every year and often sustain as much as $125+ million in damages.

However, before considering your options, it's important to get all the facts to make an informed decision. The following guide will give you accurate cost information for chimney relining with special attention to these FAQs:

• What is chimney relining?
• What is the average cost to install a chimney liner?
• What are the different types of chimney liners and their cost?
• When should you reline your chimney?
• Should you hire a pro to help with chimney relining or can you do it yourself?
• How to save money on chimney relining?

What Is Chimney Relining?

Once upon a time (a very long time ago), chimney lining wasn't required for every chimney. In fact, some older homes may not have one, so it's important to check and make sure yours does. However, in the last century, unlined chimneys have been studied and deemed so unsafe that researchers called having an unlined chimney a "little less than criminal."

Now, when you reline a chimney, you install a new flue liner. This installation is necessary to protect your chimney from heat and corrosion. 

According to The Chimney Safety Institute of America (CSIA), chimney liners serve three main functions:

• Protecting the house from heat transfer to combustibles like carbon monoxide
• Protecting the masonry from the byproducts that can cause your chimney to corrode of combustion
• Providing a correctly sized chimney flue for optimum efficiency of appliances

What Is The Average Cost To Install A Chimney Liner?

Chimney installation costs can get pretty steep, but the cost is worth the guarantee and peace-of-mind that you and your family are safe.

The final cost of a chimney liner installation varies by the liner that you choose and your specific chimney needs, but on average, you can expect to pay between $2,500 and $7,000. The national average is $2,500, with your absolute minimum being as low as $625 and a maximum of $7,000. 

What Are The Different Types Of Chimney Liners And Their Cost?

To better understand what liner costs to expect when getting a new chimney liner, you first need to get familiar with the different types of liners you can use and the costs involved with each.

Stainless Steel 

If you're considering stainless steel chimney liner, the price can be on the higher side. It is, however, highly recommended because it is a more compatible material with any appliance. Depending on your chimney's shape, you also have the option to get a rigid or flexible liner with this material. 

As far as cost, you can expect to pay anywhere between $20 to $90 per foot for just the material.

Clay/Terra-Cotta

Clay/Terra-Cotta is your least expensive option when it comes to replacing your liner. Clay tile liners often range from $6 to $15 per foot for the material. If you plan on hiring a professional, consider the extra costs of installing this material since it is more labor-intensive due to pulling old clay tiles off one-by-one. Labor cost is averaged to cost an additional $2,000 to $3,500.

Aluminum

Depending on what type of aluminum chimney liner you choose as a replacement or upgrade, you can expect to pay as little as $5 per foot of material and as much as $30 per foot. The problem with choosing this material is that although it is relatively budget-friendly, it is also quick to rust, so its lifespan can be as little as 5 years.

Cast-In-Place

Cast-in-place liners are a permanent solution that involves concrete-like material inserted into your chimney to seal any and all voids. For this reason, the price can get pretty steep if you choose this material. Average cost ranges from $40 to $120 per foot for the material alone.

This option is often used in old chimneys that don't have a liner or for chimney repairs. 

Thermocrete

Thermocrete flue liner is good for minor chimney repairs and involves lining your existing chimney with a layer of ceramic to seal off cracks, holes, and other openings in your chimney walls. However, this material is also a labor-intensive job, so pricing can be as low as $50 and as high as $200 per foot.

This option is safe for both gas fireplaces and wood-burning fireplaces.  

What Is The Average Cost To Repair A Chimney Liner?

Repairing your chimney lining can vary in costs depending on the problem at hand. However, minor issues like cracks can be repaired for an average of $200 to $400. To replace it completely, you could be looking at as much as $10,000. 

For more about a chimney repair checklist, check out the video below:

Some additional costs that can accrue that you may not have factored in:

• You have a multi-level home.
• If the job is particularly hazardous when trying to reach your chimney cap. 
• If the flue is more difficult to work with.

When Should You Reline Your Chimney?

The national safety standard is to have your chimney inspected at least once a year for soundness, freedom from deposits, and correct clearances. 

With that being said, the CSIA also recommends replacing your liner when "there's 1/8" of sooty or creosote buildup [or] sooner if there is any glaze present in the system."

It is also wise to get a chimney inspection after a chimney fire, including checking the condition of your liner. The Chimney of Safety Institute of America also says to look out for these 9 signs that may mean you've had a chimney fire: 

1. "Puffy" or "honeycombed" creosote
2. Warped metal of the damper, metal smoke chamber connector pipe, or factory-built metal chimney
3. Cracked or collapsed flue tiles or tiles with large chunks missing
4. Discolored and/or distorted rain cap
5. Heat-damaged TV antenna attached to the chimney
6. If you've found creosote flakes and pieces
7. Roofing material damaged from hot creosote
8. Cracks in exterior masonry
9. Any signs that smoke escaped through mortar joints of masonry or tile liners

What Are The Cost Factors When Relining Your Chimney?

Additional costs you need to consider are inspection and cleaning, materials, labor, and installation.

Inspection and Cleaning

On average, you can expect to pay between $150 and $300 for a chimney sweep and inspection. The price of the inspection also depends on the level your chimney needs. 

There are also three levels of inspections CSIA says you should be familiar with:

1. Level 1 inspections are a minimum requirement and often involve your technician examining areas that are readily available. This includes checking for obstructions and combustible deposits.  No specialty tools are necessary to get this job done.
2. Level 2 is necessary for chimneys that have had any changes made to them like fuel type, material, and more. It is also required if you sell or buy a new home. No specialty tools are necessary to get this job done either, but rather uses video tools or similar. Situations that warrant this inspection are after a chimney fire, weather events, building fire, or seismic events.
3. Level 3 inspections are recommended if a hidden hazard is suspected, and special tools are needed to consider the problem more deeply. This level also includes the same inspections involved in levels 1 and 2 and includes the removal of components like the chimney crown or interior chimney wall to get a better look at the potential problems.

Materials 

Aside from the liner material, if you're choosing to do the job yourself, you could be looking at additional costs like hand tools (hammer, drills, etc.), protective gear (eyeglasses, work gloves, etc.), a ladder or two, liner kit, and chimney cleaning kits. 

Labor

Labor can be a significant portion of your costs. The job varies dramatically depending on the difficulty of the job, but the average is said to be around $60 an hour.

Insulation

Insulation costs can vary depending on whether you choose to use single-wall or double-wall. If you use a single-wall, you will likely pay $20 to $40. If you use a double-wall, you'll likely pay $40 - $90. 

Should You Hire A Pro To Help With Chimney Relining Or Can You Do It Yourself?

Although you can DIY your chimney lining, it is often recommended that you have a chimney professional take care of the job to ensure that everything is installed and working properly. A significant amount of lives are lost a year due to masonry chimney fires, so it is vital that there are no mistakes made when it comes to a major component of your home.

Not to mention the job itself is a fire hazard and can lead to unimaginable damages.

If you are up for the job and have enough knowledge to do so, you can do the job yourself. There are chimney liner kits that are fairly inexpensive and typically have a step-by-step guide and tips on how to use them correctly. We recommend at least consulting a professional for guidance.

How To Save Money On Chimney Relining?

Like many other expensive home improvements, homeowners must consider their financial options before and during the projects. Whether you choose to work with a chimney professional or do it yourself, there are ways to save money without sacrificing quality.

You can save some money by paying attention to the following things:

• Warranty - When considering your options, pay close attention to warranties and other important paperwork involved with a big and important job like this. For instance, does it cover chimney fires?
• Ask questions - Be involved with the solution to your chimney problems. The more you know about what's going on, the quicker you can step in to question any upsells that may not be necessary for the job at hand.
• Shop around - There isn't only one local installer, so make sure you do your due diligence when comparing costs, experiences, and other values.

Home Improvement insurance - It is always a great go-to for expensive jobs necessary for your home to run properly and safely.

Foundation Cracks - Signs, Causes, and Types

Although our houses are built to withstand the test of time, it's not uncommon for them to wear down after a while. 

Just like we show signs of old-age through wrinkles, our houses show it through cracks and imperfections. With the weight of the house bearing down on it, flaws of wayward construction, and the surrounding pressure, the foundation of your house takes it all. 

Not only do cracks in your foundation look bad, but they can also result in the gradual loss of structural integrity, which can mean costly repairs. The sooner you fix foundation cracks, the easier and cheaper repairs will be.

Are you looking for accurate cost information related to foundation cracks? Perfect, you're in the right place. In this guide, you'll learn:

• When to worry about foundation cracks
• The various types of foundation cracks
• What causes a foundation to crack
• The warning signs for a crack in your foundation
• How to prevent a foundation from cracking
• When to repair a crack in your foundation
• How to save money if you have cracks in your foundation

Here's everything you need to know about foundation cracks.

When Are Foundation Cracks Serious?

The seriousness of a crack depends on the size, location, and whether the house has other signs of structural damage. A huge number of homes have cracks in their foundation, and the older a house gets, the higher the likelihood of imperfections/cracks appearing.

We'll get into the details below, but generally speaking, horizontal and stair-step cracks are the most dangerous and are always a cause for worry.

Other types of cracks can result from typical foundation settling, but any crack that goes beyond 1/8" wide at any one time is a serious problem and should be addressed right away. What's more, cracks that are broader on the top than the bottom should be a cause for worry.

What Are The Types Of Foundation Cracks?

1. Vertical Cracks

This foundation crack is quite common and can often occur within a few months of new construction. It looks just like you'd expect it to. This can be a spider web of vertical features crumbling apart or just one slowly widening crack. 

The nature of a vertical crack will depend on how soil is shifting under your house. However, vertical cracks often occur when one half of your house moves horizontally away from the other or when a section of the home is pushed up away from the rest, thus creating a fissure. 

Vertical cracks likely won't result in serious structural problems in a home, but they definitely can allow water to seep into your basement. The best course of action is to have this type of crack sealed with epoxy by a professional. Professional epoxy injections typically start at $500, but if you're banking on your own repair skills, you can get a DIY kit for as low as $75.

2. Horizontal Cracks

These types of cracks appear on your foundation walls, and they move horizontally without spanning concrete walls vertically. Cracks of this form are an indicator of severe foundation damage, and leaving them without repair could lead to the eventual collapse of your house.

Horizontal cracks occur due to a different type of soil movement. Suppose that your foundation is buried in several different layers of soil. One layer shifting or expanding more than others can cause stress to shear or hit your foundation horizontally. The effect will gradually show on your foundation walls.

These cracks shouldn't be ignored as they can result in significant loss of your foundation's structural integrity, particularly if they traverse corners of your crawl space or foundation. The best way to remedy horizontal cracks is to have them inspected immediately by a structural engineer. The good news is that horizontal cracks aren't that costly to repair and can even be repaired with lifetime guarantees and transferable warranties if you end up selling your house later on. 

3. Diagonal Cracks

These cracks are very similar to vertical cracks, but they run at an angle less than 75 degrees and greater than 30 degrees (mostly 45 degrees). 

Diagonal cracks could be signs of bigger problems and should be inspected by a foundation specialist or a structural engineer, especially if they span corners of your crawlspace or foundation. The remedy might be just to seal them with epoxy crack injections. Repair costs for these cracks range from $75 for DIY kits to $500 and for expert crack repair.

4. Stair-Step Cracks

Much like horizontal cracks, stair-step cracks are severe and often indicate major foundation movement. They form a stair-step pattern as they span horizontally between concrete blocks, then vertically, then horizontally, and so forth. 

For older houses with leaky basements, stair-step cracks are often the culprit. While the issue can be rectified with help from professionals/contractors, wear and tear in an older home is simply a fact of life. That said, it's wise not to apply a polyurethane sealant to stair-step cracks as it is a total waste of money.

5. Basement Hairline Cracks

These are often small cracks and form on your concrete floor. Hairline cracks often pop up within one year of construction and are mostly caused by the drying and settling of the new foundation.

The good news is that if you are a DIY homeowner, you can repair these cracks cosmetically for just $60-$200. But if you'd rather have a professional inspect and repair them, you'd have to spend $400-$600.

Pro Tip: If you acquired a new house and discover basement hairline cracks, be sure to get in touch with your home builder. Your warranty may cover any hairline crack repair costs.

What Causes a Foundation to Crack?

1. Earthquakes

When an earthquake occurs, it causes the ground beneath to shake, which in turn shakes your house around. Thankfully, most parts of the US are not susceptible to earthquakes.

However, it's important to note that even the tiniest of quivers can lead to cracks, especially if your foundation isn't stable or well-supported.

2. Soil Composition

Your house is a heavy structure. Suppose the earth beneath the foundation is of different densities (soil in one area and stones in another, for example). In that case, the foundation can settle unevenly (what is called differential settlement) and eventually crack. 

If you've noticed the doors and windows sticking, floors creaking, or you notice water seepage in your basement, it's highly likely that you've had a differential settlement. 

3. Hydrostatic Pressure

This occurs when excess water builds up around the exterior of your foundation. Cracks due to hydrostatic pressure are often found in areas that experience heavy rain or prone to floods.

4. Plumbing Leaks

Plumbing leaks in your home can spell doom. If your house lacks poured concrete foundations or basement waterproofing, the excess water will add to the earth, causing it to expand and push against your home's foundation.

5. Drought

Soil shrinkage occurs when soil is deprived of moisture. In our case, shrinkage happens when the earth below your foundation loses moisture, say during a drought. This causes soil to gradually pull away, creating a gap for the foundation to move. If your home's foundation isn't well supported, it can shift around, and fissures will start to appear. This is often the case when your foundation is laid on clay soil.

What Are The Warning Signs For Cracks in Your Foundation?

1. Windows or Doors That Don't Fit

When windows or doors begin to fit loosely or too tight, it can be a sign of foundation problems. There might be an issue if you can't fit a window or door to its hinge snugly. These issues can affect vents, garage doors, and other wall fittings.

2. Crumbling, Cracked, or Compromised Foundations

Begin by checking the foundation itself. Walk the outside and inside walls of your property and check for signs of:

• Gaps
• Sagging walls or floors
• Cracks or fractures
• Moisture or pools of water
• Flaking or crumbling concrete

3. Uneven Floors

You should be worried if the floor gradient is more than one or two inches every 15 feet.

4. Window Frame/Door Frame Separating From Brick

A door or window frame that's pulling away from the mortar wall should be a clear indicator that your home's foundation is in trouble.

5. Gaps on the Foundation or in the Walls

Keep an eye out for gaps/fissures in places where the floor, walls, or ceiling should meet flush. 

6. Warped Ceilings or Drooping Floors

Although some settling is normal, excessive drooping of the ceiling, walls, or floors can signify foundation issues.

How to Prevent a Foundation From Cracking?

1. Drain Water Away from the House

Don't allow water to pool around your house. The soil (especially clay soil) can expand dramatically and push against your foundation walls. Redirect any stagnant waters to areas far from your home. Do this using in-ground drains. As for roof and rain runoff, downspouts can help move the water elsewhere.

2. Plant Shrubs and Trees Away from Your Home

When drought strikes, shrub and tree roots tend to compete with soil for moisture. This can cause your foundation to settle unevenly and develop fissures. It's always prudent to plant trees several feet away from your property.

3. Water at Least Twice a Week

Water your foundation every day in the morning and before night for 30 minutes. Set a timer on your sprinkler for this task. This is particularly helpful in the first year of new construction.

4. Implement Proper Landscaping

Water typically runs downhill, and because you're trying to carefully control the amount of water around your house, the last thing you want is for all the rainwater to pool right under your roof. 

To avoid this, make sure that you grade the landscape about 6 inches in 10 feet of soil away from your house.

When Should You Repair a Crack in Your Foundation?

• If you find basement hairline cracks, don't sweat it. As long the cracks are hairline in width (within 1/8"), there's nothing to worry about.
• If a narrow crack is new, monitor it for expansion. Keep a close eye on the crack at least monthly for a few months and contact a professional if the crack expands.
• If the crack is wider than 1/8”, it should be sealed immediately. 
• If a horizontal crack pops up where the foundation meets the basement floor, it's not necessarily a structural issue, but the crack could use a sealant.
• If water is seeping through a crack, seal the crack and redirect the water.
• If a wall crack is wider than 1/2”, have a professional take a look right away.
• If a huge crack accompanies a bulge in a concrete wall, it shows a deeply-etched structural problem. Consult a professional immediately.
• If a crack is horizontal, it presents more of a risk than a diagonal or vertical crack. Consult a foundation expert before things get out of hand.

How to Save Money If You Have Cracks on Your Foundation

One of the best ways to save money on crack repairs down the road is to waterproof your foundation as soon as you move in. Admittedly, it is much harder to waterproof pre-existing/old houses than it is to waterproof new houses. Even so, there are solutions available to you that'll cost less to install than to repair your concrete foundation once the damage persists.

Carbon fiber foundation repair is one of those solutions. This method is gaining popularity in the construction industry mainly because the carbon fiber strips are quite affordable—a single strap goes for as low as $420. 

Alternatively, be on the lookout for free estimates and inspections from contractors or structural engineers in your area. Often, contractors/engineers will be able to offer you a free quote after a structural inspection. By comparing these quotes, you can better understand how much your foundation repair is likely to cost. Then you can negotiate with your engineer or contractor of choice to get the best bang for your buck.

Foundation repair contractors typically run their own small firms and are freer to negotiate than their corporate counterparts (like structural engineers) might be. If everything else hits a brick wall, don't be afraid to inquire if your preferred contractor has a payment plan available.

Handling foundation repairs can be a daunting prospect, particularly for new homeowners. Don't let your budget concern keep you from seeking out the foundation repairs you need, though. One rule of thumb always holds true: the longer you wait to fix a problem with your foundation, the costlier the eventual fix will become.

Can a foundation be made out of brick? Read my How to Prevent Brick Foundation Problems column.

Foundation Installation Costs 2021 (Installation, Replacement, Pricing)

Becoming a homeowner is one of the biggest successes one can enjoy in life. Other than offering families a private space, a house is a great long-term investment. This is why millions of Americans buy homes each year.

Alternatively, if you want to have more control over your house's design, you can choose to build a new home. However, this approach comes with additional work as you need to get cost estimates for your design, secure a building permit, and monitor the construction process. This is important as it helps ensure the total cost of construction does not exceed the budget. 

With construction, the most important thing is for the building to be strong and stable to ensure the residents' safety. This is why the foundation is arguably the most critical part of a building. Other than supporting the building, a well-laid foundation serves as insulation. It also prevents moisture from underground water seeping in, reducing the need for further waterproofing. 

One of the major concerns about a house foundation during construction is the overall cost. This is because there's a lot of work that goes into laying the foundation. And, depending on the soil conditions, the amount of work may vary. With more work comes additional labor costs and other associated expenses. A place with loose soil will need more excavating and foundation walls to guarantee safety and adhere to local building codes. 

If you're looking for information about foundation costs for new construction, you are in the right place. In this article, you will learn about:

• The average cost of a new foundation
• Types of foundations
• The best foundation for a house
• The best foundation for a mobile home
• How to save money with foundation installation

How Much Does Foundation Installation Cost?

Being one of the most important features of a building, it is crucial that the foundation is constructed well. However, you should also have accurate cost guides to ensure it does not blow your budget. When it comes to foundation costs, there are two key factors to consider: the type of foundation and the square footage.

Most people spend between $4,166 and $13,280 when building a foundation, bringing the average cost to $8,473. However, your costs may be even higher depending on the particular needs of your site and location. 

What Are the Types of Foundations?

When building a house, the type of foundation to use is one of the most important decisions you'll have to make. Factors that local contractors and structural engineers consider when determining the best choice for your project include:

• Location and climate
• Soil condition
• Humidity
• Budget

By taking into account all of these factors, you may find one of the following options suits you best.

1. Concrete Slab Foundation

With this foundation, a flat concrete slab will be laid on the ground in one concrete block. Concrete slab foundations are also known as mono slab foundations or monolithic. Two key benefits of concrete are that it's less expensive as you only need to be keen on the cost of concrete and it is easy to construct. 

The installation process is also hassle free. A beam embedded with concrete that runs two feet deep around the foundation walls, steel reinforcing bars, and wire mesh are embedded in the concrete to strengthen the block foundation. These add to the strength and stability of a concrete slab foundation. 

With concrete slab foundations, repair costs are not a major concern. This is because concrete slab is not prone to crumbling over time, necessitating foundation repair. Also, with this type of foundation, the building will not have a crawl space, which also presents maintenance issues. 

Check out the video below for more information on different types of concrete slab foundations.

Concrete foundations are not suitable for areas with cold climates. When temperatures drop and the ground begins to freeze and thaw, the slab will begin cracking and can shift. Another limiting factor with this foundation is that sewer and drainage system pipes are installed before concrete is poured. As such, you will have to cut through the slab to fix sewage and plumbing issues.

2. Pier and Beam

If you live in an area where the soil is constantly shifting, eroding, or flooding, the best way to anchor your home is to use a pier beam foundation. Also known as "piers and pile" or "pier and post" foundations, they're common in coastal regions and areas prone to hurricane conditions and major flooding. Along with offering support, they also need to protect the house from water damage. 

During installation, piers that can exceed 15 yards long are fixed on the ground to reach the soil's deep layers and stone. This approach is also suitable when constructing heavier homes to prevent sinking as the weight is distributed over a large area. 

With this type of foundation, you'll need to bring in a structural engineer to perform a soil analysis to ensure the conditions are suitable for construction. Costs are also relatively high as you will need heavy machinery to drive the concrete piers into the ground.

3. Full Basement Foundation

Full basement foundations have an underground living space that matches the home's ground level floor space. Construction begins by digging a hole for the basement that's at least eight feet deep. Along the edges, structural foundation walls on concrete footings will be placed. These footings should be placed at least 12 inches below the frost line and 12 inches below previously undisturbed soil. 

From there, beams will be placed, concrete walls erected, and cement slab poured inside the walls. With this type of foundation, you will enjoy more living space which can double your home's square footage. More importantly, basement foundations are strong, durable, and resistant to extreme weather and fire.

Basement foundations are more common in cold climate areas where freeze and thaw cycles can cause a home to shift. The foundation must be placed below the frost line in such areas, thus making a basement foundation the perfect option. 

Basements offer a wide range of applications for homeowners. For instance, if you live on a hillside, you can construct a walkout basement, offering additional functionality. However, you must be prepared to spend as this is the most expensive type of foundation. 

4. Crawl Space Foundation

Instead of a full basement, you can opt for a crawl space foundation. This is a space below the house in which a person can crawl that's slightly elevated. Though it does not add living space to your home, it provides additional storage space suitable for a furnace and other equipment. It also provides easy access to mechanical systems, plumbing, and wiring. Foundations with crawl spaces are made of stem walls, which are short foundation walls on concrete footings.

Since houses with crawl spaces are elevated, they have a unique aesthetic appeal. However, the primary benefit of crawl spaces is the protection they offer from environmental hazards such as flooding and earthquakes. The elevation also makes such houses more resistant to termites. However, the same cannot be said for mold and mildew. 

Compared to a full basement home foundation, crawl spaces are less expensive. However, they require more maintenance. Fortunately, most of the work is DIY. All you need to do is check the below-ground walls for cracks, install vapor barriers, and check for leaks from pipes. This should be done regularly to ensure that the crawlspace is dry at all times and remains structurally sound.

How Much for Concrete Foundation Installation?

While choosing a foundation style, it is essential to have a cost guide to help develop accurate estimations based on your preferred style and square footage. Along with the price per square foot, you should also know the factors that can affect the estimates. 

1. Monolithic

With a monolithic concrete slab, you should expect the costs to be around $4 per square foot. The cost can go higher if there is a need to add radiant heat, bump-outs, and sealers with a water vapor barrier. 

2. Stem Wall

At $ 5 per square foot, a stem wall is more expensive than a concrete slab. Similarly, the costs can be higher if sealers, radiant heat, and bump-outs are needed.

What Is the Best Foundation for A House?

Approximately half of the houses built in the US use slab foundation. However, this does not necessarily mean it is the best option for your house. In conjunction with your contractor, you must determine which type of foundation to use. It is ideal for warm and dry areas where you do not have to worry about frost depth. Slab foundations are also suitable for regions where basements cannot be used due to water tables. 

If you are building in a sloped area, basements and crawl spaces are a suitable option. For areas with loose soil or  that experience extreme weather conditions, go for a pier and beam foundation. The key to determining the best choice is assessing your area's conditions to know which options will offer the greatest support.

What Is the Best Foundation for a Mobile Home?

Over the years, designs for mobile homes have improved significantly, making them an increasingly popular option. If you're thinking about investing in a mobile home, you need to choose an ideal foundation. As with fixed homes, your options include basements, crawlspaces, slabs, and piers. 

Each comes with unique properties that are appealing to home builders. If you want an option that's cost effective but still durable and functional, a slab-on-grade foundation will do just fine. With this option, there will be a concrete base as large as the house with a crawl space beneath. The house is anchored to the concrete for support.

Another popular option due to its ease of setup is the use of piers. Cylindrical piers made of cement are inserted into the ground well below the frost line. Spacing for the piers should be around 8 feet. To reduce foundation costs, you can combine piers with beams.

As unrealistic as it sounds, mobile homes can also have a basement foundation. For maximum stability, the basement walls should be thick enough to support the weight of the house. If the pricing of a basement foundation seems too high, a crawlspace is a suitable alternative. This option is suitable for regions prone to termite infestations or high levels of humidity.

How to Save Money with Foundation Installation

When building a house, especially at the foundation level, the biggest mistake you can make is cutting corners to save money. Doing so not only compromises the integrity of the structure but will translate to significant repair costs later on. Nonetheless, it is still important to make the process as economical as possible to avoid going beyond the budget.

If you're using a concrete slab, you can save up to a dollar per square foot by choosing a monolithic slab instead of a stem wall. You can also save up to $ 1,000 if you do not add a vapor barrier. This should only be done if you live in a relatively dry area.

With pier and beam foundations, costs depend on the number of piers you use. To bring the cost down, ensure the design is rectangular as it will not require a lot of piers. However, when it comes to cost reduction, basement foundations have the most pressing need but the most challenging. Instead of a finished basement, leave it half-done. This will save you thousands of dollars.

Get It Right the First Time

Any mistakes during construction often translate to higher costs. This is why it is important to start your project with all the necessary information. Ask The Builder is a platform dedicated to helping you complete your construction without any issues. Do you need help? Ask Tim all your construction related questions to avoid unnecessary pitfalls. 

Chimney Repointing Costs 2021 (Installation, Replacement, Pricing)

Are you looking for accurate cost information for repointing a chimney? You're in the right place! 

As a homeowner, you need to remain vigilant of any structural damage to your home. It's your biggest investment, and almost certainly your largest asset. Don't let it go to waste. Sure. Routine maintenance and repair jobs on your chimney probably aren't at the top of your life list. But they're an important component of homeownership. After all, you probably wanted a chimney; that's why you bought a house with one. You should keep that chimney in tip-top shape. But how much is that going to cost you?

In this guide, you'll learn the answer to questions like:

• What is chimney repointing?
• What is the average cost to repoint a chimney?
• Are there any additional factors that go into chimney repointing costs?
• How do you know if your chimney needs repointing?
• What's the difference between repointing and tuckpointing?
• How often should you repoint your chimney?
• Can you repoint a chimney yourself?
• How can you save some cash on your chimney repointing job?

Let's talk repointing!

What Is Chimney Repointing?

Your chimney is the single most exposed part of your home. It stands tall above your roof and takes the brunt of those heavy winds, hail, rain, and snow. So, it shouldn't be too surprising that your chimney is one of the first parts of your home to need repairs. Here's the secret: you don't want to wait until your chimney stack is in disarray to get it repaired. You should check your chimney occasionally for damage. I even have a "chimney checklist" to help you figure out exactly what to check and when to check it. Check it out below:

One of the most common (and least talked about) components of chimney repair is repointing. Over time, your chimney joints (i.e., the space between your bricks that are filled with grout or mortar) get cracked and damaged. In fact, I bet you could walk around your neighborhood and see plenty of chimneys with cracked joints and weathering. That's not good. Trust me; cracked old mortar joints are a recipe for disaster. One strong wind can send your chimney tumbling. Worse yet, cracked joints always get worse, leading to more expensive repairs and further damage. Of course, there are plenty of scary things that can happen when your chimney joints start to crack. A brick could fall into your chimney flue liner and block carbon monoxide from escaping your home. Or your chimney cap could fall off and destroy part of your roof.

Repointing is the process of going in and getting those mortar joints replaced and repaired. Typically, this involves cutting out the old mortar and filling your chimney in with new mortar. But there could be additional steps if there's underlying brick or crown damage.

What Is The Average Cost To Repoint A Chimney?

On average, chimney reporting costs between $750 and $2,500. Where you live, the type of brick, and the overall damage all factor into this price. According to the Bureau of Labor Statistics, states like Alaska, Illinois, and New York have the highest-paid masonry workers and tradespeople. So, it's safe to assume that you'll pay more to get your chimney repointed in those areas.

The size of your chimney also plays a role. Smaller chimneys typically cost less than larger chimneys due to the amount of grout. However, small chimneys with smaller bricks may cost the same (or even more) than larger chimneys since smaller joints can be more difficult to grind out and repair. Overall, chimney repointing is significantly less expensive than a new chimney installation, which will cost you an average of $7,500.

What Are The Additional Factors That Affect Chimney Repointing Costs?

Location

In order to repoint your chimney, your mason has to climb onto your roof and use power tools on your chimney. So, chimneys on five-floor mansions will cost more to repoint simply because they're less accessible. Falls injure thousands of workers each year, and there are over 800 fatalities associated with falls each year. So, there's a good reason that higher chimneys are more expensive. They have to take additional safety precautions, and it will take them more time, money, and energy to repoint your chimney.

Access to Chimney

If your chimney rests upon a very small area of your roof, your mason will have to expend more resources to fix it. Again, this is a safety and time issue. Less accessible chimneys are simply more time-consuming and resource-intensive to repair. Your chimney contractor will have to climb to the top of the chimney to do a repointing, so safety is absolutely a concern.

Type of Chimney

The size of the chimney and the type of masonry you used to build it also factor into your cost. Obviously, taller chimneys with more mason joints will cost more, but the size and type of joint also play a role.

Labor Costs

The labor costs of your chimney job will depend on a variety of factors. Remember, labor costs also vary wildly by area, so take that into consideration. Also included in this cost bucket are any additional requirements. As an example, you may need a repointing due to a big storm. That storm may have also damaged your flue. Repairing your flue along with a repointing will be more costly, since your contractor will expend more hours.

How To Tell Your Chimney Needs Repointing?

Are there cracks or gaps in the mortar joints between your bricks? You probably need a repointing. Of course, chimneys are tricky. Brickwork likes to hide damage on the back-end. So you could be dealing with a problem with your crown or some interior brick issues. I recommend contacting a local mason or chimney expert and asking for an estimate. They'll be able to diagnose any significant issues you have.

Don't let chimney cracks fester. Water can seep into these cracks and cause significant damage to your chimney. The sooner you repoint, the less overall damage your chimney will endure.

Note: Repointing is only for chimneys with issues at mortar joints. If your chimney is cracking across the bricks themselves, you probably need a total chimney replacement. Chances are, the damage is greater than you think as bricks are really sneaky at concealing damage. Get a quote for a full chimney replacement below.

What Is The Difference Between Repointing And Tuckpointing?

A ton of people (including experienced masons) use the terms repointing, tuckpointing, and pointing interchangeably. But they all refer to completely different processes.

Repointing is the process of repairing damaged mortar joints. Tuckpointing involves going in and mixing existing mortar with new mortar that more closely aligns to the brick color — which results in a superficially "tight" looking joint. And pointing refers to the initial job of filling in mortar grout on new bricks. Each of these are completely different processes. Of course, all of them are related as they all deal with mortar joints. But tuckpointing is superficial while repointing and pointing are critical to the structural integrity of your chimney.

How Often Should You Repoint Your Chimney?

Done well, repointing should last around 25 - 50 years. However, acute weather events or physical damage can call for an immediate repointing. So, that date isn't set-in-stone. You can look at a chimney and determine if it needs a repointing pretty quickly. Any cracks or gaps in the mortar call for a repointing job. It's best to not go by a set date with repairs. Do them when they need to be done. You may need to repoint five years after your new chimney is built, or you may not have to repoint your chimney for a century. It depends on a variety of factors. Luckily, mortar damage is easily visible to the naked eye.

Can You Repoint A Chimney Yourself?

Can you DIY this project? Yes. Should you? Probably not. I'm a big fan of DIY, and I put tons of DIY guides on my YouTube channel. But this is one DIY that I'm going to heavily recommend against. Any time you deal with structural components like mortar joints, it's best to leave it to the pros. Unless you have vast experience with masonry, don't take this job on.

If you're still insistent, I highly recommend using a hydrated lime and sand mortar mixture. Don't fall for overpriced and over-packaged mortar. Again, this is only for those who know what they're doing and have some experience with chimneys or masonry.

This leads to a small problem. You don't know what you don't know. How do you know if your chimney repointing quote is fair? Better yet, how do you know how good the roofer is? Again, I highly recommend using my chimney checklist. You can hand it to your contractor and have them check off each item on the list. Always look for a contractor with 20 plus years of experience and only do chimney repairs in favorable weather conditions (60 - 75 degree range).

Back in 2012, I wrote an article for the Washington Post responding to a lady who wanted to know why contractors were all giving her different quotes and solutions to her chimney problem. I still feel the same way as I did back then. You need to open your contract up to bidding. If you hire contractors, one-by-one, you'll get the fairest price. After all, they can see that they're competing on your project, so they're going to be trying to give you everything you want in order to win your bid.

How To Save Money On Repointing A Brick Chimney?

While I recommend against DIY repointing, there are still plenty of ways to save cash on your chimney costs. For starters, try posting your bid online instead of contacting a local mason directly. Having local companies compete to secure your job can help you score a better deal. You can also discuss any deals, packages, or discounts with your mason. There's a good chance they'll throw in some extra cleaning or a free inspection on your chimney crown.

Here's the thing: repointing a chimney already saves you money. It prevents you from having to do an entire chimney repair. So, you're already coming out at a net positive. You could technically save cash with DIY. But, again, that's only for those of you with tons of masonry experience. I recently talked about this in an article with the Columbus Dispatch. Chimney repairs are one of the very few projects where I actively recommend against DIY. To put it simply, it's dangerous up there. I don't want any of you getting hurt. Let your wallet take a small beating, not your body.

 

Foundation Waterproofing Cost Guide 2021

It's hard to pick any one part of your house as the most important.

Floors and walls? Definitely important.

Roof? Of course.

Doors and windows? Yes and yes.

A home is like an industrial production line where all parts work together to provide shelter, comfort, and warmth, so no individual pieces of the system can function without the others. However, an argument can easily be made that the foundation is the basis of it all, and without it, the rest of the house would be deprived of a strong standing base that supports the entire structure.

Most homeowners would never ignore a broken window, leaking roof, or a sunken floor, but many will ignore a basement leak until it wreaks havoc on the home's foundation. 

Whether you decide to renovate or build your dream home, it's always prudent to waterproof your foundation. Avoid foundation leaks, mold growth, and musty basements by ensuring the waterproofing of your foundation walls.

Are you looking for accurate cost information related to foundation waterproofing? Perfect, you're in the right spot. In this guide, you'll learn:

• What it means to waterproof a foundation
• How to waterproof a foundation
• How to save money when waterproofing your foundation

Let's dive right in!

What Does it Mean To "Waterproof" Your Foundation?

Concrete block foundations are typically strong and sturdy. Even so, eventually, soil and hydrostatic pressure can overwhelm the mortar, causing it to erode. The breakdown may allow groundwater to seep into hollows and joints, making its way into your basement. In severe cases, the foundation walls can begin to cave in. Due to the porous nature of concrete blocks and crawl spaces, they are particularly susceptible to mold. To avoid issues in the long run, experts always recommend waterproofing your foundation.

Basically, foundation waterproofing is the process of preventing water from seeping into a basement from the outside. It typically involves putting in place a system that can prevent water ingress into the structure and effectively control hydrostatic pressure. 

The question is not so much about stopping water from entering your basement, but rather what approach you should use to prevent it. The extent of the damage, the level of disruption the waterproofing solution causes, and the financial costs are all factors to consider when weighing your options.

Below are four major types of foundation waterproofing solutions available:

1. Dampproofing

The first solution is dampproofing. This entails applying tar, solvent based acrylic sealer, or acrylic-modified cement to the outer surface of a wall. This entire process's main goal is to stop the transference or wicking of water vapor through your concrete walls by creating a strong waterproofing membrane.

It's worth noting that dampproofing is not intended to keep all the moisture and liquid water out. It's a process that only works by blocking out moisture for a while. However, with the absence of hydrostatic pressure to drive water seepage and correctly installed foundation drains at the footing, dampproofing can offer long-lasting protection for your basement and crawl spaces.

Your dampproofing cost can vary from as little as $200 per wall to upwards of $2,000 per wall. To be sure of the cost, have a waterproofing contractor assess your foundation first.

2. Waterproofing Paints and Primers

If your home is under construction or renovation, waterproofing paints and primers might be your best bet. This solution involves applying a sealant (which in our case is a waterproofing paint/primer) to any problem areas where mold grows or where cracks allow water to seep in. Interior sealants will not only prevent condensation from forming but also protect your foundation walls against water that originates from melting ice and snow.

Waterproofing primers go for as low as $30, while elastomeric coatings can range between $1.30 to $1.80 per square foot. So if you are confident in your DIY abilities, it shouldn't cost you an arm and a leg to waterproof your home's foundation.

3. Exterior Drainage Systems 

Unlike the other two strategies, an exterior drainage system seeks to move water out of the ground instead of simply blocking it. Even if you're a do-it-yourself kind of person, it's prudent to leave the installation of drainage pipes in the hands of professionals. This arrangement is quite costly, with French drains, for example, going for $20 to $30 per linear foot—more on this solution below.

4. Interior Drainage Systems

An interior foundation drainage system looks a lot like an exterior French drain, only that it is made of perforated pipe littered with stones to prevent it from blocking/clogging. It works by collecting water from the water table and runoff that might infiltrate the basement. The system then drains this water into a sump pump, which channels it out of the basement. This ensures your foundation remains super dry.

Here are the costs for the different sections of an internal drainage system:

• Sump pump: $500-$1,000
• Crawl space interior drain: $800-$300
• Basement interior perimeter drain: $4,000-$12,000

Want to learn more about how to install an internal drainage system? Check out this series of YouTube videos from AskBuilder: 

How To Waterproof a Foundation

Step 1- Dampproofing

First off, it's important to note that proper waterproofing always starts with the home's exterior. We're looking to answer: What can be done to help keep away water from the home's foundation from the outside?

Often, this can be achieved with dampproofing. It all starts with excavation. Here, all soil will be dug away from your home's foundation up to a depth of 7-8 feet. The team will then dig a trench around the concrete foundation and fill it with gravel and drain material. 

What follows is the actual process of dampproofing. Depending on your home's exact issue, the crew will apply a waterproofing membrane and/or chemical sealant to the exterior foundation walls. 

Step 2- Installing an Interior or Exterior Drainage System

Next up, the team will line the trench with a drainage mat that has molded dimples. Ideally, the mat should be cut out to the exact depth of the foundation. 

Now it's time to complete the weeping tile or French drain. The pipe (mostly 4") will be installed at the footing weeping the water table below the basement floor. To complete the French drain installation process, the crew will backfill the trench with gravel. 

As for interior drainage systems, you can have a drain tile system and sump pump installed. Or, if you are a DIY enthusiast, you can jackhammer the floor, install the entire system, and replace the floor in a matter of days. However, it's best to leave the job to foundation specialists as they have a better grasp of where to install the system. Often, drain tile systems in pre-existing homes are installed under the concrete slab.

Step 3: Grading 

Grading plays a vital role in where the water ends up on your property. It's one thing to dampproof and install drainage systems, but without proper grading, you're staring down at more foundation leaks in the future.

When looking at the grading, you should be looking at all the areas around your house, including the gardens, paved areas, the lawn, and the landscaping directly surrounding the perimeter.

All water that falls within 10 feet of your house (rain or snowmelt) without pooling (water only runs downhill). Generally speaking, the ground should drop 1 inch for every 1 foot that you move away from the house for the first 5 - to - 10 feet around your property.

To improve or fix the grading, add soil next to the foundation such that it slopes away from the house. However, you should have at least 4" of your foundation (stone, block, or concrete) showing above the soil. This ensures that water continues to flow away from the house instead of pooling.

Keep in mind that improper grading can be just as bad as not grading at all. If you're a little skeptical about your grading skills, it's best to leave the task to a professional. 

Your landscaping specialist will be able to ascertain whether the ground is uneven and whether it's contributing to poor basement drainage. Then, they'll eliminate the topsoil to shape the ground below it so that there'll be enough drop in the grading as you move away from the house.

Step 4: Applying Waterproofing Paint or Primer

As we said, a waterproofing primer or paint creates a barrier between the actual wall of the house and moisture. While waterproof paint is best applied on basement walls or inside the house, it can also be applied on the exterior of the house on the foundation. Here's how to properly apply it:

• Remove excess mortar - Use a stiff brush to brush away any chunks of mortar that appear loose or crumbling. 
• Patching - Fill any gaps with fresh mortar. Remove excess mortar with the trowel and allow the mortar to properly cure.
• Nix the moisture - Set up the dehumidifier and run it for days prior to painting or priming.
• Painting/Priming - Use a paint sprayer when working on the exterior walls of your home. You can also use a paint sprayer on the inside of the house for vast areas, but a paint roller will help you access even the tightest of spaces.

Step 5: Install Gutters & Downspouts

Another important step in waterproofing your foundation involves installing downspouts and/or gutters.

These two systems are unsung heroes, so it pays to get it right from the word go. Below, we tell you how to install gutters and downspouts correctly:

• Cover the basics of the project - Ensure you have all the tools you need for the job, including step/extension ladder, work gloves, power drill, 25-foot tape measure, screws, gutter brackets, gutter sealant, caulking gun, and tin snips.
• Prep your fascia and soffits - Perform a thorough inspection of the flat boars underneath your roof (fascia) as well as the area between gutters and the wall (soffits). Replace any soffits or fascia that are rotten, damaged, or otherwise missing.
• Get a helping hand - Request a friend or family member to give you a hand holding gutters/downspouts in place for drilling.
• Direct your drainage - It's prudent to install all gutters with a slight angle for water to drain towards the downspouts and out to the yard. For gutter runs shorter than 40 feet, select one direction for the water to drain, and pitch the "high" end of the gutter run on the opposite side of the run from the downspout. As for the runs that are 40 feet or longer, pitch your gutter such that its highest position is in the middle of the run. Then slope it downward in the direction of the downspouts positioned at both ends of the run.
• Measure carefully - Hang your gutters based on the manufacturer's instructions. Always measure twice before cutting.
• Attach the downspouts - Our assumption is that you've already marked the location of the downspout on the low end of the gutter. If so, go ahead and secure the downspout outlet to the gutter with pop rivets or screws. 

Step 6: Installing an Interior Drainage System

This process is very similar to installing an external drainage system.

Start by laying out an internal French drain along walls that meet on the corner where the sump pump is situated. If your basement floor is sloped towards opposing corners, it's best to install two French drain pipes, each directed towards the low-lying corners. This goes a long way in improving drainage. 

Use an electric jackhammer to dig up a runoff trench that extends 10-12 inches below the base of the concrete floor slab. Install a waterproofing membrane (such as tar paper, acrylic polymer, and so on) around the basement walls from where it extends to the runoff trench to the top of the wall. Pour at least 2 inches of gravel into the base of the runoff trench. Follow it up with fitting a French drain inside the runoff trench. Make sure the French drain is well centered. Then attach a PVC elbow to the end of the French drain that is on the opposite end of the runoff trench from the sump pump. 

Lay the French drain inside the trench, making sure it's well-positioned. Then fill the trench with more gravel until it's on par with the base of the concrete slab. Ideally, the French drain and trench should span the entire length of the walls, with the PVC elbow on the opposite side as the sump pump. Again, this job is best left to professionals.

How To Save Money When Waterproofing Your Foundation?

There's no reason why homeowners with the skills (and the waterproofing products and tools) can't install a French drain or pitch a gutter. It's important, though, that you know your limitations and don't take on a foundation repair project you can't handle. If you take on a foundation waterproofing project only to abandon it midway, you've wasted whatever you spent on waterproofing materials and tools, not to mention your time. You'd have been better off to have called in a professional from the word go.

Talking about professionals, don't call the handyman, general contractor, or plumber to fix your wet basement. They might be good at what they do, but that doesn't mean they know the ins and outs of basement waterproofing. A foundation specialist is your best bet in this regard.

What's more, you need to be picky when selecting a waterproofing company. There's no such thing as "one-size-fits-all" solutions. If you hire a basement waterproofing company that provides a full range of services, you'll get what you are looking for, not what they sell.

Again, desist from spending on what you don't need. The most common source of foundation seepage in your area might be wall cracks, which can be swiftly and permanently fixed by injecting polyurethane into and through the cracks. This repair might only cost you a couple of hundred dollars. Don't spend thousands of dollars for a French drain or some other waterproofing system when you don't need it.

On the other hand, if your foundation is almost sinking or you notice other signs of water seepage in your foundation, don't slap a cheap "bandage" repair on a severe problem. Call in a pro right away. They can possibly fix the issue much more economically now than later when it gets worse.

Foundation Crack Repair Costs 2021

Being a homeowner is a job in itself, but it’s one that pays off in the long run if you keep up with maintenance, repairs, and replacements. Most importantly, you need to take special care of your home's foundation because it plays a big part in your home’s structural integrity. In the United States, approximately 60% of homes are built on soils with some clay content. Of these, more than half of the homes will experience damage.

If your home is part of the 'more than half,' you want to be properly prepared to take care of any small damages to prevent any bigger ones from arising. Likewise, you'll want to apply additional preventative measures even if there hasn't been any damage yet. 

If you're looking for accurate information related to foundation repair, this guide will be a good place of reference. You will learn:

• When Should You Be Worried About Foundation Cracks
• The Types of Foundation Cracks
• How to Repair Foundation Cracks
• If The Cost of Fixing a Crack in the Foundation is Covered by Insurance
• How to Save Money With Foundation Crack Repair

When Should You Be Worried About Foundation Cracks?

When it comes to the seriousness of foundation cracks, it's important to put into consideration their size and location, as well as how many cracks there are. As homes age, they're eventually going to accumulate cracks in their foundation. It's up to you to keep an eye out to measure how serious the damage is.

Serious signs to look out for:

• Large cracks 
• Multiple cracks
• Operational problems with doors and windows sticking
• Walls bowed inward 
• Cracks or damages to your floor like buckling and waving
• Leaking or musty smell from the basement wall or crawl space 

Now that you're more familiar with signs to look out for, understanding what causes structural cracks can help locate the issue, find appropriate solutions, and implement preventative measures to stop any further damage.

Some common causes: 

• Settlement - Settlements are like hairline cracks. Creaking homes and mild uneasiness aren't often something to worry about on your foundation wall unless it expands and shows signs of 'shifting.'
• Expansive soils - Heaving and lifting pressures are a common cause if your soil is high in clay content. 
• Drainage issues - One of the most common causes of foundation cracks is poor drainage near your home.
• Plumbing leaks - Water lines or sewer lines leak, and if the water gets around or under the foundation, there can be problems. Problems can get significantly worse if the issue isn't addressed promptly.
• Rotation of foundation - Leans slightly inward or outward.
• Poor soil compaction - If the soil doesn't support the weight of the house and foundation. 
• Structural Engineer errors - If they're not properly engineered, cracks and additional damage can become an issue.
• Adding a second story - Sometimes, structural problems can happen if you add a second story to a home that isn't built for it.
• Frost uplift or heaving - Cold climates can cause ice to get into the soil and make it move inward or outward, impacting the foundation. 
• Geotechnical issues - Homes affected by earthquakes, landslides, and similar are vulnerable to structural problems as well. 

Likewise, it is also important to understand and apply preventative measures to expand your foundation's lifespan and durability. As a homeowner, it's your responsibility to keep up with the proper maintenance to avoid decreasing your home value and keep everyone in your home safe. 

Preventative measures:

• Keep the soil moist, not soaking wet.
• A downspout downer moves excess water to the streets to avoid water damages.
• Plant deep-rooted trees and shrubs away from the house so that they don't compete with your soil for water and dry it out.
• Sprinklers on a timer for 30 minutes (morning and night) can be a good fix for dry soil, but be sure not to overwater. 

Check out the video below for more information about keeping your soil moist. 

What Are The Types of Foundation Cracks?

Knowing the different types of foundation cracks will help you pinpoint your exact problem, its seriousness, and where to go from here. While many homes will eventually fall victim to cracks and damage, they're unlikely to have the same exact problems. 

First, there are block foundations that don't go vertical or diagonal. Instead, they take on the shape of 'stair steps.' This type of foundation crack is found in a concrete block foundation, often along mortar joints between blocks. 

The three concrete wall types of cracks to get familiar with are vertical, diagonal, and horizontal.

Vertical Foundation Crack

Vertical cracks are common and not considered to be as dangerous as the other types of foundation cracks. In fact, concrete cracks can happen in new homes when tension and pressure are resulting from rainwater. 

When you have more than one crack, you should consider it a more serious problem. With one, it could just be concrete shrinkage as the wall cured. 

This problem is often taken care of quickly and easily, as long as you take care of the foundation problem right away.

Diagonal Foundation Crack

Often, diagonal cracks result from differential concrete settlements, which means that your foundation is settled unevenly. It can lead to more serious problems but isn't dangerous initially. 

Diagonal problems are not as easy to take care of because you have to pinpoint the exact location of the problem to prevent more damage, but they are significantly easier than horizontal cracks.  

Horizontal Foundation Crack

Horizontal cracks are the nightmare you need to look out for when determining the type of crack you have in your home. They are the number one sign of a severe structural problem. Some common causes can be forced strain from the ground that causes bowing, excessive backfilling, and frost heave.

How to Repair Vertical or Diagonal Foundation Cracks?

Vertical and diagonal concrete foundation wall cracks can be fairly easy to fix. In many cases, for small cracks, all you have to do is apply a sealant like caulk or flexible filler with a putty knife. This solution is great for patching. 

If you have a bigger crack in your foundation, you can use a putty knife to fill the crack in with hydraulic cement. 

Make sure you get deep into the crack, rather than just covering the cracks superficially, and wipe off any excess. 

Can Vertical Cracks Be Fixed With a Crack Injection?

Yes, it's common for a concrete maintenance specialist or homeowner to fix vertical cracks with an epoxy or polyurethane crack injection. In fact, it's believed that more than 99% of the time, the crack injection will fix the problem.

Polyurethane foams are used as a sealer and waterproofing (not structural repair). 

On the other hand, epoxy injections are for structural repair and come from ultra-thin viscosities to more of a paste. The option you choose is dependent on the crack in question. You'll want to fill in the entire crack, so base your choice off of that.

How to Repair Horizontal Foundation Cracks?

Horizontal cracks aren't something you want to mess with and do it yourself to save money. Cracks like this require a detailed inspection from a foundation repair contractor. With that said, this is how it would be done.

Plate anchors are a good solution to correct problems regarding a horizontal foundation crack. They're installed by digging holes into the soil away from the foundation. Rods go into the basement wall's small holes and connect to exterior anchors installed in the soil. 

Then a wall plate is set up inside and secured to the rod. A professional then uses a torque to pull it back into place. With major repairs like this one, you can expect to pay an average of $10,000 or more.

Can Horizontal Cracks Be Fixed With a Crack Injection?

By no means should you quickly DIY a horizontal crack with crack injection. For more serious cases, you'll want to bring in a structural engineer to work on your foundation to ensure the safety of you, your family, and your home. 

When is A Cracked Foundation Beyond Repair?

Fortunately, a cracked foundation being beyond repair is not very common. However, it does occasionally happen. 

Some of the most serious signs of structural problems are:

• Foundation cracks are changing direction.
• Your floors are sloping.
• The pressure is causing your wall to bulge.
• The crack opening is big enough to fit a dime in it.
• Vertical cracks are wider on the top than the bottom.

According to the U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development Office of Policy Development and Research, in rehab work, permanent wood foundations can replace a large section of an existing foundation that is damaged beyond repair or needs to be replaced. 

Is the Cost of Fixing A Crack in The Foundation Covered by Insurance?

Yes and no. The cost of fixing a crack in the foundation is covered by insurance if you have the 'Dwelling Coverage' component and the repair isn't due to normal wear and tear or leaks. Chances are that you do have the coverage, but it never hurts to check and make sure. 

Dwelling coverage is a component of your homeowners’ insurance that protects your home's structure. This includes the foundation, frame, wall, and roof.

According to Bankrate, your dwelling coverage covers your foundation if it is damaged by:

• Fire
• A vehicle or aircraft colliding with your home
• Vandalism
• Falling objects
• Water damage that results from an overflow in your A/C, heating, or plumbing system
• Windstorms
• Explosions

Likewise, Policy Genius reports most companies will not cover your foundation repairs if it was caused by:

• Earthquakes
• Flooding
• War
• Mudslides
• Sinkholes
• Wear and tear and neglect
• Government action
• Pests
• Slowly accumulated water damage
• Water or any other substance that overflows from a sump pump or other system designed for the removal of subsurface water
• Tree root damage

How To Save Money With Foundation Crack Repair?

Being a homeowner is hard work and often more expensive than you can imagine. Fortunately, there are ways to cut costs without sacrificing quality. 

Before you jump into such a big home project, consider these options for saving money with foundation crack repair:

• Warranty - Warranties don't always cover small cracks (like hairline cracks), but it's always worth trying to see if any local companies around you do. On the other hand, most (if not all) offer warranties for the bigger jobs that need structural work.
• Homeowners Insurance - Insurance can make your financial state much less strained when unexpected covered home improvements are needed. 
• Understand your problem and solution - Don't let a professional talk you into any extra jobs that aren't necessary. Know what your problem is and how it should be fixed to avoid upselling tactics. 
• Compare quotes - Don't be fooled into thinking you have to spend a lot of money to get high-quality professional help. Some companies are overpriced. Instead, shop around and compare costs to make sure that you're getting a good deal.

Roof Installation Costs 2021

As a homeowner, you know that you’ll eventually need to replace your roof. Whether you have shingles or a metal roof, it won’t last forever. 

How long your roof lasts before it requires replacing will depend on the material it’s made of. However, you can expect that a roof replacement will be necessary within the space of 30 to 50 years. This can put a strain on your finances, as you’ll need to pay for roofing materials and a roofing contractor. 

If you’re looking for accurate cost information for roof installation, you're in the right spot. In this guide, you'll learn:

• The signs that you need a new roofing system
• The average cost of a new roof, including its installation
• The steps it takes to install a roofing system
• The reasons for hiring a roofing contractor
• Whether or not your roof may be under warranty or covered on your homeowner's insurance
• Ways to extend the life of your old roof
• Tips for saving money on a roofing installation

What Are The Signs You Need To Install A New Roof?

Whether you need to repair your roof or replace the entire thing, you’ll need to know what a roofing project will entail. 

Whatever you decide, you’ll want to make sure that a strong wind won't take your roof with it. Re-roofing is a large home improvement project and is expensive, so you need to be sure a replacement is needed and that you don't just need a roof repair. Here are some signs that it's time to hire an installer and replace the entire roof:

• Dark streaks from airborne algae
• Loose shingles and debris close to the chimney and edge of the roof
• Buckling or curling shingles
• Large spots without any shingles
• Age
• Bits of shingles or granules in your gutters or gutter drains
• Roofing nails in your gutters, drains, or around the outside of the house
• Soft or spongy spots in the roof's interior
• Damage to the flashing
• Loose or damaged decking
• Clogged gutters that allow water to accumulate on the roof for long periods of time

Like many of us, you probably only see the shingles on your roof — other parts and pieces, such as ridge cap shingles and metal flashing, may not be so noticeable. 

However, a roofing contractor can confirm when a replacement is needed, rather than a repair. There are ways to help extend the lifespan of your roof and cut down on re-roofing expenses. 

Here’s a quick video that covers how to cut cap shingles: 

What Is The Average Cost Of Installing A New Roof?

Square foot matters when it comes to replacing an entire roof. Another big determinant in the cost is the type of roof, whether it’s asphalt shingles, tab shingles, or a metal roof. 

You can expect to pay between $4,700 to $10,460 for an average home with a gently sloped roof and between 1,700 and 2,100 square feet of space inside. Of course, this is an estimate for an asphalt shingle roof. You may have to pay more for other types of roofing materials. 

How Do You Install A New Roof?

There are many parts to a roof system. When a roof repair is no longer sufficient, you need a roof installed that meets all the local building codes. This involves more than nailing down a few shingles. Here are the steps for installing a new roof:

1. Remove Old Roofing

This step is exactly what it sounds like. The roofing material is removed, from shingles to roofing nails. When you tear off all these items, you’ll need to have a place to deposit the debris (which will be considerable).

2. Evaluate The Roof

Once the roofing material is gone, the roofing contractor inspects the interior of the roof. The structure is usually made up of wood. The contractor must ensure that this isn't decaying or rotting. If it is, you may need to replace the substructure of your roof. 

3. Protect Against Ice

Ice may damage your roof and warp the wood underneath it. To protect against ice, the roofing contractor may add a sealant to the underside of your roof. This helps to minimize the damage from melting ice. 

4. Put On Drip Edge

Shaped like an L, the drip edge is the metal flashing that fits the edge of the roof. This essential structure funnels water away from the fascia and off the edge of the roof. 

5. Install Underlayment

Using a chalk line as a guide, felt paper is placed over the sheathing and roof deck with roofing nails and other fasteners. On the section of the roof that overhangs the eaves, it's a good idea to place waterproof shingles to protect against ice dams. 

6. Install New Roof

With a starter strip and starter shingles, the roofer lays down all the shingles, using roofing nails to affix them to the building. 

7. Seal Roof Vents and Pipes

The final step involves sealing the roof vents and pipes. Caulking and roof membranes will be affixed to roof vents and pipes to act as a sealant. 

After all of this, you must clean up the mess. Most professional roof installation companies will carry away all the old materials. If you're going from a shingle roof to metal roofing, it’s possible to place the new metal roofing over the old shingles and skip the first step. 

Installing a new roof is a major home improvement job, so you need to make sure the roofing contractor has an impeccable reputation. You’ll also need to choose materials that are top-rated for durability. 

Should You Hire A Roofer?

Yes, it's always beneficial to hire a roofing company. Working on a roof and replacing the roofing material can be dangerous work. Safety is just one of the benefits of hiring a roofer. Other benefits include:

• Saving money: Yes, you do pay high prices to a roofing contractor, but if you're re-roofing on your own, you'll need to buy special tools and equipment. This can include ladders to roofing nails. Also, you'll need to lease a trash receptacle and have it hauled away when you're done. These expenses add up. 
• Saving time and hassle: Completing a roof installation is hard work. It takes a lot of time to remove and replace the felt paper, drip edges, and roofing tiles. You probably can’t tackle a home improvement re-roofing project in a day or even a long weekend. But, depending on the size of your roof, a roofing contractor and its team can complete it in a day or two. 
• Avoid injuries: From a fall from the roof to an injury caused by roofing tools, re-roofing your home comes with inherent dangers. You don't want to lose any money you may save by running up hospital bills or missing work. 

Is Your Roof Covered Under Warranty Or Insurance?

There are some occasions when replacing your entire roof may be covered under your homeowner's insurance policy or a warranty. However, it's more likely that these protections will only cover roof repairs. 

Your homeowner's insurance will cover some things, however, such as damage from hail, a fallen tree limb, or a tornado. 

In some cases, your insurance may not cover what it considers to be "acts of God." You need to carefully review your insurance policy to find out when and if a new roof or roof repairs may be covered. 

While your roof is under warranty, the roofing company will come out and assess any damages and make any necessary repairs. Without a warranty, the roofing company or manufacturer may only cover a portion of the repairs, depending on the age of your current roof. 

Some people have home warranties that they purchase. Very rarely will a home warranty cover the replacement of an entire roof, but they will probably cover roof repairs. 

If you notice a leak and think that you may need some roofing work done, it's a good idea to note the date and time that you found the leak and contact the warranty company immediately. 

How To Extend The Life Of Your Roof?

Due to the expenses involved in re-roofing your home, you want to ensure that it lasts as long as possible. There are some things that you can do to extend the life of your roof. These things include:

• Keeping your gutters cleaned: Water can be one of the most damaging elements to the inside and outside of your home. If your gutters fill up with leaves and other debris, water will accumulate on your roof. Standing water can weaken and rot a roof. 
• Trimming trees and branches: You may think the reason to do this is to keep branches and limbs from falling on your roof, and it does. However, leaves that land on your roof and stay there will begin to decay, and this can weaken the integrity of your roof and create the need to repair or replace it. 
• Routine inspections: Whether you inspect it yourself or hire a professional, you need to inspect your roof once a year or so. Any needed repairs need to be completed as soon as possible so the damage doesn't spread. 

Regular maintenance on your roof can save you money and go a long way towards ensuring its longevity. 

How To Save Money On a Roof Installation

Re-roofing your home is an expensive home improvement project and one that you don't need to complete but every few decades. 

When the time comes to hire a roofing contractor and replace your asphalt shingle roof or metal one, you want to save as much money as you can. Here are a few tips for saving money on your roof installation:

1. Get multiple quotes: While you may know someone in the roofing business, they may not provide the best value. Get quotes from several roofing contractors. It may save you a few hundred dollars that you can use on something else. 
2. Replace your roof in the off-season: Like any other professional contractor, roofing companies have a busy season, usually late summer through the fall. If you opt to have your entire roof replaced in the winter or early spring, you may be able to get a better deal. 
3. Opt for an overlay: An overlay is an option where the roofing contractor places new shingles over the old ones. In this situation, the old shingles and underlayment stay in place. You need to seriously consider this option before moving forward. An overlay can void any warranties you may have and make it more expensive to replace the roof in the future. 

Replacing the roof on your home is a large home improvement project. Understanding the process of roof installations helps you make better decisions.

 

Standing Seam Metal Roof Costs 2021 (Installation, Replacement, Pricing)

Are you looking to install a standing seam metal roof? You're in luck. I've built hundreds of roofs over my lifetime, and I'm ready to help you navigate the wild and wonderful world of roofing. From fair pricing to DIY instructions, this is everything a homeowner would ever need to know about installing a metal roof.

In this guide, I'll teach you:

• The average cost of a metal roof
• Why metal roofs are more expensive than other roofing materials
• What preparation is necessary for a metal roofing installation
• How to DIY a standing seam metal roof or fastener metal roof
• The tools you need to approach a metal roofing installation project
• What types of materials you'll need to install a metal roof
• How to save some cash on your metal roofing installation

Let's dive in!

What Is The Average Cost Of Standing Seam Metal Roof Installation?

The average cost of a standing seam metal roof — including installation — is anywhere from $15,000 to $25,000. You can expect to pay roughly $8 - $15 per square foot, but the type of metal, style, slope, and pitch of your roof all influence the overall cost. As an example, steel roofs and zinc roofs will generally cost less than high-grade aluminum or copper roofs. There are also some "hidden" costs that can sneak up on you. These include things like coloring, replacing the roof deck, warranties, or replacing the underlays.

Expect to pay around $2 extra per sq. ft to replace the decking and another potential $1 per sq. ft to replace the underlay if it isn't bundled into your contractor costs. I generally recommend lighter-colored metal roofs, since they reflect heat better. In fact, a darker roof can run over 50-degrees hotter in the dead of summer, so take that into consideration.

Now, if you already have a metal roof and you're looking to get it repaired, you'll pay less than a full installation. A metal roof repair (depending on the damage) will run you anywhere from $500 to $5,000. But most repairs cost around $1,200. I generally recommend having routine maintenance done to your roof around every two-year mark. But your roofing contractor will give you a more accurate estimate based on your material, gauge thickness, and overall roof construction.

Why Are Metal Roofs More Expensive Than Asphalt or Shingles?

Installing an asphalt roof will run you around $1.50 to $4 per square foot. Shingle roofs will cost a little more at around $2 to $5.50 per square foot. So, metal is significantly more expensive than other roofing systems. I go into this in a little more detail in my metal roofing post, but I want to touch on it here. Metal roofing requires more labor, skill, and time to install, and it's also a more costly material all-around. But it's usually worth it. Metal roofs made out of zinc or copper can last for over a century, and even aluminum roofs last for around 50 years on average. These roofs are resistant to high winds and they have an unparalleled lifespan.

So, if you're planning on staying in the same home for the next couple of decades, the upfront cost of metal is often worth it. It prevents you from having to install a few roofs over the lifetime of your home. Of course, properly maintained asphalt can last a long time. The problem is, most people don't properly maintain their asphalt. Check out my project guide on asphalt shingle repairs if you're looking to replace your asphalt with metal. It may help you fix your problem without having to splurge on a new roof. Metal roofing requires less maintenance and care, so it generally lasts longer.

What Preparation Is Needed for Installing Standing Seam or Exposed Fastener Metal Roofing?

As always, I'm a huge fan of DIY projects. Now, I want to give a clear warning: installing roofing is not for everyone. It's dangerous on your roof, and you need to take the proper safety precautions and have a good handle on power tools. But, if you want to save a little cash, DIY can help you cut costs.

To prepare for a metal roofing installation, you'll need the following:

• You absolutely need a full-body harness with a fall protection system. This includes the harness, roof anchors, a shock-absorption lanyard, and a lifeline. You can see how this works via these OSHA guidelines.
• Before you purchase materials, you need an accurate and detailed measurement of your roof. To get this, you'll need to measure every single nook and cranny of your roof (e.g., flanges, gables, ridge caps, etc.). Then, you'll measure the slope of your roof (you'll need a carpenter's level). Multiply the total area measured by the slope. That's your square footage. Purchase around 10% more than you need, and make sure the roof panels are around 2 inches longer than you need — since they get bent and will also protrude a little.
• You'll also need a hammer and some roofing insulation. When you rip off your shingles, you may need to repair some damage or pound in some nails. If your damage is extensive, you may even have to go in and completely replace the decking.
• Finally, you'll likely have to invest in an underlay. I highly recommend a waterproof underlay. Personally, I prefer Grace Ice and Water Shield. It's extra peace-of-mind.

Check out the video below where I cover more information on the Grace Ice and Water Shield:

These three steps are required for both types of metal roofing (i.e., exposed fastener and seamless). However, the rest of the project after these three steps is a little different depending now on which type of roofing you're installing. Let's look at how you install each type. For the following guides below, I've assumed that you have measured your roof, repaired any decking damage, and laid down your underlay. I'm also going to post videos from some of my favorite builders. I think most builders are visual learners, so I'm hoping these videos will help.

How Do You Install Exposed Fastener Roofing?

1. Square Your Roof

Before you lay a single panel down, you need to square your roof. Every vertical line of your panels should run square to your eave. I recommend leaving a gap at the peak of the roof. That way, you can make any adjustments you need during the roofing process. When you walk over the metal sheets or drill them down, they often fan-out/fan-in. If you don't square your roof, you may find it difficult to put all your panels in the right spot. The easiest way to "start square" is to use chalk or a carpenter's pencil to draw squares across your inlay.

Cut Panel to Length and Add Eave Trim

Time to bust out your panels. You'll want to add roughly 1.5 to 2 inches to the end of each panel. So, if your roof calls for a 25-inch panel, you'll want to cut it to 27 inches. You want to leave some room to overhang the eave, which you'll also want to start cutting at this point. 

I recommend cutting the eaves first, putting them in place, and then measuring the metal roof panels flush to the eave. Next, add two inches to the total panel length, and cut the panels. To do this, you can draw a line on the bottom of the panel, and use a square or tape measure to draw a perfect line across the entire panel. Finally, take a circular saw to your eave panels. Here’s a handy video to break down the process to get you ready to apply sealant tape: 

Apply Sealant Tape

You should apply your sealant tape to adhere the panel to the eave. You want your tape across the entire eave. This should secure your panel to the eave. This will help it stay in place for the actual panel installation process.

Install with Exposed Fasteners

The last step is to install your panel using your fasteners. Always make sure that your panels are flush to the eave before you start drilling. I recommend drilling into the fastener strip first, which will keep the panel straight as you drill fasteners directly into the face. Try to keep your drill as vertical as possible. You want clean drills. I will say this: don't install your fasteners too tightly. You left that extra inch of space, but if you install too many tight fasteners, your metal panels will fan, which can make the entire process a pain. 

How Do Your Install Hidden Fastener (Standing Seam) Roofing?

1. Install Offset Cleat

I love standing seam metal roofing. The clean look of a flush metal roof is (in my opinion) ideal for residential homes. It looks beautiful, and it has excellent durability. Better yet, standing seam roofs don't rely on little neoprene washers to prevent leakage. Exposed fasteners are a liability. If the little washers on those fasteners fail, water has a direct entry path into your underlying structure — which is a recipe for damage and corrosion. Since standing seam roofs clip into an offset cleat instead of hanging over an eave, they're far less likely to leak.

It all begins and ends with the offset cleat (some people use the term drip edge interchangeable with offset cleat). Instead of having your panel jut out an inch past the eave — like you would on an exposed fastener roof — offset cleats keep your roof flush by fastening the panel directly into the cleat. 

2. Bend the Panel Edge

To get your metal roofing panels clipped to the offset cleat, you need to cut along the spine on both sides of the panel, bend the standing seam panel under the offset cleat, and then close the rib. 

3. Install with Hidden Fasteners

Finally, you simply need to fasten the roof along the fastener line. It's really that simple. You can take a hammer to the cleat bend if it's not straight. But you only need to do this if you bent the fastener manually.

What Are The Tools Needed to Install Metal Roofing?

Let's quickly look at some of the tools you'll need to DIY a metal roofing installation.

• Roofing hatchet or nail gun
• Pencil (preferably a carpenter's pencil)
• Tape measure (make sure you know how to properly read it)
• Sheet metal snips
• A tool belt
• Full body safety harness
• Roof anchors
• Shock-absorbent lanyard
• Lifeline
• Sheet metal hand seamer
• Sawzall (for decking repairs)
• Drill (preferably cordless)
• Caulk
• Nails

Remember, tools are only one part of the puzzle. You need to know how to use them correctly. Believe it or not, something as simple as drilling a hole can actually get a little complicated. If you're new to any of this, check out some guides on my YouTube channel. Don't go into this blind. I have plenty of free advice in those videos, and I give you some insights into my decades of building experience.

What Additional Materials Will You Need For Metal Roofing Installation?

Before you start measuring, buckling up your harness, or busting out your handy tape measure, you need a few must-have materials. The biggest one is underlayment. You absolutely must put down new underlayment before you put down your metal roof. Failing to lay down underlayment is like driving a new Porsche on bald tires. It doesn't make any sense.

I also strongly suggest a good pair of work boots. KEEN boots seem to be the best fit for my foot, but everyone is different. So, you should try some on at your local store if possible. Also, grab a pair of work gloves and some safety sunglasses. Laying down roofing is tedious and can rip up your palms. Plus, you don't want any sparks or debris flying into your eyeballs. In general, try to dress safely. Don't underestimate the danger and roughness of roofing.

How To Save Money On Standing Seam Metal Roof Installation?

There are two ways to save money on metal roof installations.

1. DIY your installation
2. Get installers to compete on your project

The guide above should help you with DIY. Remember, DIY isn't always cheaper. If you have no existing tools, it may cost you more to complete this project solo. However, you get to keep the tools, so that's always a win. For those of you who want to have a roofing professional install your roof, I highly recommend posting your job online and having them bid for it. Contacting your local roofer is great. But how do you know if they're giving you a fair price? When you make roofers compete, they'll often give you a better overall deal.