Lot Selection – 25 Tips- Part II

survey revised plot plan

See " Part I - Lot Selection- 25 Tips"

Here are 8 more tips and hints to keep you on the right track when making decisions about which of various residential lots you want to buy. Here is Part II of "The Smart Way to Select Your Lot - 25 Tips".

Zoning

Zoning laws tell you what is permitted to be built on a lot. This ranges from your house to playsets, to fences and even shrubs! These laws can be loose or highly restrictive. Corner lots can be severely penalized as they face two streets. You must research what the zoning laws permit you to do or not do on your lot. It may take you hours to read through them, so be prepared.

Wind

In my county we have a giant landfill. Every now and then there is an article in the paper about nearby homeowners who complain about odors. Don't buy a lot downwind from a landfill, a factory, sewage disposal plant, animal farm, or any other odor-producing operation. Check with the local U.S. Weather Office for prevailing wind directions and times of year! For example, if the winds shifts seasonally and blows towards your lot in the winter when windows are closed, it might not be a big deal.

Flooding

Flash floods and ordinary river or tidal flooding should be considered. This is especially true if your lot may be in the lower reaches of a drainage basin. Development farther up in the drainage basin may concentrate and cause overflow of streams and creeks that historically have not flooded. Talk to existing property owners about past flood levels.

standing water in back yard

This ponding of rainwater is not normal. The next door neighbor blocked the natural swale with a new swimming pool. Photo credit: Tim Carter

Septic Systems

If your lot has, or you will be required to use, a septic system, be sure the soil can handle it. Not all soils will test positively. You may be required to install a modified leach field that can cost thousands of extra dollars. For advice contact the local Health Department which conducts the testing.

Future Area Development

Fifteen years ago a woman who worked with my wife moved into a house in the country. It was on a state route which ran parallel to an Interstate highway. The house and the state road were about one mile or so from the interchange. Well, guess what? It isn't the country anymore! Their house was swallowed by huge commercial development. You must be aware of growth trends and what might/will happen to your land and that which surrounds it. Land that is attractive to commercial developers can transform from farmland to blacktop parking lots with a simple zoning change. Remember, money talks ...... and commercial developers have a lot of it.

Geology

You need to be aware of the geology of your region. Are there faults? Are you in an earthquake zone? What about landslides or periodic mud slides? Buying in the Southwest? Did you know that raging flash floods pour out of the mountains every fall and winter? Maybe they will engulf you and your new home?

Toxic Waste

You read about it all the time in the paper. There are many places where toxic waste has been dumped illegally. Odds are you will never know. However, does your new lot have an old road or driveway? Is it remote? Are there areas where vegetation is dead or growth is stunted? Look for clues...

Fill Dirt Sites

If you are buying a lot in a new subdivision, stay away from lots near storm sewer pipes or culverts. Stay away from lots on the edge of hills or in unnaturally 'flat' areas. These areas are prime suspects for fill dirt. Even as I write this Bulletin, I am an expert witness in a lawsuit where a house was built on fill dirt. The lot was a creek bed before development. A pipe was installed and dirt dumped along side the pipe to 'create' a buildable site. BEWARE!

Read on for Part III and the final few tips to buying your land or lot the smart way.

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Buying A Building Lot Tips

cleared building lot

Buying a building lot - This is a cleared building lot. It's time to stake out the foundation so the foundation hole can be dug. Copyright 2018 Tim Carter

Buying a Building Lot Tips - Mistakes Can Be Costly

Three-Part Series - Part One of Three

The following is the first of a three-part series of what I think are some of the most important things you should look for when buying a building lot. Tim featured this first part of the series in his October 20, 2018 AsktheBuilder Newsletter.

Download the three parts of the series to use as a checklist when you decide to look at building lots.

Many of these are important whether the lot is vacant or has an existing home built upon it. Remember, the land is a real asset. Buildings are temporary. The land is the basis of long-term value.

What is the Best Size for a Lot?

Is the lot the right size for what you intend to build? Is there space for games/recreation? How about an outdoor pool or storage building? What about future expansion - will the lot support a room addition of reasonable size?

Be aware of the setback lines that are part of just about every lot. The part of the lot between a setback line and the actual property line is OFF LIMITS. This means you can't put any part of the structure in this zone. The setback lines can consume up to 40% of the actual lot in some cases! BEWARE of setback lines and discover where they are when buying a building lot.

survey map

This is a typical plot plan survey document. You can see the property lines, the pins at all the corners and bends as well as the distances along the property lines. Don't even look at a lot unless you have this in your hands and you can read all the print on the document. Copyright 2018 Tim Carter

Is Slope Important in a Building Lot?

Most people are fooled by level ground. What appears level may actually be a significant slope. If the ground is vacant, roughly stake out the house and driveway.

Hire a builder/remodeler with a transit level or rent one. Take elevations.

If your house has a basement and the lot falls more than 7 feet across the footprint of the house on the land, you WILL have problems! If it's a slab house, it should have no more than 18 inches of fall across the footprint.


What About Available Utilities Serving the Lot?

Are utilities available? Natural gas, electric (overhead or underground?), city/county water or well, public sewers, telephone, etc. Without utilities, you enter a time warp and go back 100 years or more.

Do you have to pay extra to tap into utilities OR has it been paid by the developer? Watch out, these tap-in fees can be astronomical if the developer tries to pass them on to you. Is the existing sewer REALLY public? You would be surprised how many miles of sanitary sewer are private!

Septic systems can be shared. My neighbor here in New Hampshire shares a leach field with four other homes. If just one home fails to maintain their septic tank by getting it pumped every three years, then the leach field can go bad. You may have to pay for part of a failed leach field that's not your fault.

Should I Consider Fire Protection?

Did you ever look at your homeowner's policy? A huge portion of your bill is based on fire coverage. Your lot location is rated: distance to closest hydrant, size of water main feeding hydrant, certification level of the local fire department, etc. The lower your rating in these areas, the higher your premium! You better get a quote from your insurance salesperson before signing a sales contract to buy the lot.

How Do I Determine City/County Services?

What kind, if any, of services, are provided to you or your road frontage? Is the road plowed? How is garbage collected? Do you pay extra for garbage removal? Are there special property assessments for past or planned improvements?

Is Compass Direction Important?

Are you building a passive solar house? Do you want to orient your deck a certain way? Do you want to bake under the hot afternoon sun on your deck? What about your swimming pool? Will your lot be shaded in the afternoon or early evening?

hiking compass

This is a great compass to have while looking at lots. As of 2018, it was priced at $9.99. CLICK THE PHOTO now to have it delivered to your home.

Are you on the north face of a hill in the Northern Hemisphere? If so, your ground surface may not see direct sunlight for two or more months! It will be frozen and damp all winter! Buy a $10 compass and keep it in your glove compartment.

What about Water Drainage?

Surface and subsoil drainage is one of the most important things you must consider. Vast amounts of water can move downslope through the soil.

Linear French Drain Streaming Video

Do your own DIY install of a Linear French Drain with Tim Carter's time-tested methods and materials! CLICK IMAGE TO ORDER NOW!

If you plan a basement, the walls may act like dams. Heavy rainfall can cause water to run overland towards your lot. Is your lot on a moderate rise where water will flow around it?

Is your new lot in a valley or a swale? Will this valley or swale have 5 or 8 feet of water flowing through it when the 100-year flood hits four years from now? This exact thing happened to a friend of mine in what appears to be a typical ordinary suburban neighborhood!

How Significant is the Soil When Buying a Building Lot?

Another key point is the soil. Don't overlook the significance of soil when buying a building lot. There are countless different types, all with different strength, drainage, fertility, etc. characteristics. Some clay soils shrink and swell in response to moisture content.

During droughts, the soil may fall beneath your foundation or slab and cause severe cracks! You can get free soil maps from your county agricultural extension office. It may take a few phone calls, but it will be well worth it.

CLICK HERE for Part Two of the Buying a Lot Series and 8 more tips for help in buying the land or lot you will call home!

Also featured in the February 11, 2016 AsktheBuilder Newsletter.

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Part III – How to Build a Screen Porch – Roof, Paint, and Electrical Requirements

hodges bay antigua

You're looking at Hodges Bay through the screened porch where I spent lots of time working and sleeping! It was so glorious to be right next to the water. Photo credit: sleepy Tim Carter

See Part I "How to Build a Screen Porch - Frame and Square the Floor"

See Part II "How to Build a Screen Porch - From Foundation & Deck, to Walls and Support"

The Roof

The shape and pitch of your screened porch roof can add much to the overall look. Try to match the pitch or slope of your house roof. If your house has a hip roof, mimic it. A hip roof is very strong and helps to lock the walls together. Make sure that you produce an adequate overhang such as 14 to 16 inches.

Roof framing can indeed be a challenge. Cutting and fitting rafters will probably be the hardest part of the job. There are several books available on the topic:

  • Framing Roofs (For Pros by Pros Series). Fine Homebuilding Magazine. 2003.
  • Roof Framing. Marshall Gross. Craftsman Book Co. 1989.
  • Roof Framer's Bible: The Complete Pocket Reference to Roof Framing. Barry D. Mussell. Craftsman Book Co. 2003.

Electric Requirements

Be sure that you plan for electric in your porch. You may need outlets for radios, table lamps or TV's. How about an overhead light or paddle fan? You need to design your screen panels or small walls below the panels to accept receptacles and wires. Also, if your porch floor is low to the ground, guess what? You had better run your wires BEFORE you install the porch floor. I told you that you would have to think ahead!

Painting / Staining

This is one of the most important parts of the project. Wooden screened porches can require huge amounts of ongoing maintenance. You need to minimize this work. You can do it by pre-painting every piece of redwood or cedar before it is installed. Remember, these porches will get wet! Water will find its way to unpainted wood, soak in, and then cause the paint finish to peel. Take the time to prime and paint all wood on all edges before it is installed. Remember to paint any cut edges after they are trimmed. Paint the screen panels BEFORE the screens are installed. Heck, you can even paint the roof rafters and underside of the roof plywood before they are installed! I hate when paint drips onto my face!

Too much work for you? CLICK or TAP HERE to get FREE QUOTES from local companies that will do your screened porch for you!

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Part II – How to Build a Screen Porch – From Foundation & Deck, to Walls and Support

See "Part I - How to Build a Screen Porch"

The Foundation

Nothing bothers me more than deck posts that are not centered on piers. Builders and homeowners go to great lengths to try to figure out where to dig piers. They can spend hours! Then you go to build the deck and find out that you were off by 6 inches. That is why we just built the deck outline FIRST. Now that the corners of the porch have already been established you can easily drop a plumb bob and find the center of your piers. Since you haven't placed any other floor joists, it will be easy to dig the holes with a post hole digger standing both inside and outside the box.

I prefer to dig to the frost level in my area and pour an 8 inch thick layer of concrete in the bottom of the hole. Then the next day, I insert the treated lumber post which is attached or notched to accept the joists. I fill around the post with rounded gravel to within 6 inches of grade level. The final 6 inches are filled with another layer or doughnut of concrete. By doing it this way, it is easy to replace the post should it become necessary.

The Deck

Construct the deck or floor of the porch after you install the remainder of the floor joists. Use treated lumber for all of this. Do not put any spacing between your decking boards. They will shrink slightly over time creating a slight gap. Before you start nailing, you may want to consider pre-finishing the deck boards with a sealer, especially the underside and the edges that will not be exposed after you nail them down. Also, how about getting your electrical feed wires installed and possibly a gas line for your grill. You better think about how these things are going to get from the house to the porch!

The Walls

The walls of the screened porch are simply screened panels that fit between posts that support the roof structure. The types of panels are up to you. To minimize posts, you will need to create large panels. The width of the panels is a function of the width of screening material that is available. Do not build your panels and then try to find screening! Plus, building the right size will minimize waste of screening. Local lumber companies will be able to hook you up with someone who makes screen panels. If you want to make your own, or use prefab panels, go for it. You can always buy extra wide and tall screen doors and just use those. By the way, you don't put these panels up until the last day!

Corner/Support Posts

All of the wood that is below roof level must be treated lumber or a naturally decay resistant lumber such as cedar or redwood. I have had great success using redwood for my screened porch projects. Many people do not realize that there are various grades of redwood available. The lower grades often have very acceptable tight knots. It is very economical. I would give this serious consideration. Do not use treated lumber corner posts that you wrap with redwood. Invariably the treated posts will twist as they dry out. This will cause problems. Your design and plans should call for corner and intermediate support posts that beams rest upon. The beams span over the posts and are connected with special post and beam galvanized hardware. The Simpson Strong-Tie Company makes a full line of galvanized steel framing connectors.

Part III of "How to Build a Screen Porch " awaits! The final stages of your construction project will soon have you enjoying your splendid outdoor room!

CLICK or TAP HERE to get FREE QUOTES from local companies that can do this work for you.

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Part I – How To Build a Screen Porch – Frame and Square the Floor

hodges bay antigua

You're looking at Hodges Bay through the screened porch where I spent lots of time working and sleeping! It was so glorious to be right next to the water. Photo credit: sleepy Tim Carter

Let's Go! It's Time to Work!

So - you made it through the building department maze. I know you are tired and your enthusiasm has been dampened, but let's get going. Now, before you get too far ahead, you need to realize that some things are going to be done out of order. In other words, you really have to think ahead. For example: we are going to partially frame the porch floor BEFORE we dig the foundation piers. We are going to possibly run some electric wiring BEFORE we even install the porch floor. We are definitely going to paint many pieces of wood an all sides and edges BEFORE we install them. I know this may slow down your momentum, but you will actually save time and money by doing these things.

A Simple Square or Rectangle

I sure hope you are going to design a screened porch that is somewhat easy to build. Squares and rectangles are the way to go for the DIY'r. Building the screened porch will be so easy if you just get the porch floor level and square. Both are easy to accomplish.

I assume that you are going to build a simple screened porch using a wood flooring assembly resembling a regular deck. This is the best way to go for a DIY'r. The first thing to do is to attach the band board or ledger board to the house. This board will support the floor joists (using joist hangers) as they project away from the house. Your local building code will likely address the attachment method. Here in Cincinnati, we have to use threaded through bolts. These are bolts that have a nut and washer on one end. Lag bolts, which are just giant screws, and simple nails can actually fail. A band board can pull away from the house if the nails loosen or the lag bolts gets over tightened and strips out. Through bolts require more work to put in but they are worth it. Be sure you layout on the band board BEFORE you attach it to the house where your floor joists are going to be! Otherwise, you may have a joist land on top of or next to a bolt head. If you really want to do the job right, determine where the interior floor joists are. Make your floor joist become extensions of the interior joists. This way the bolts can fall in between the centers of the joists on both sides of the wall.

Now, you must attach the two end floor joists to the band board. This will require you to hammer flat one side of a joist hanger. This flattened edge is nailed to the side or end of the band board. Be sure to use the proper joist hanger nails! Do not use roofing nails. Attach your outer rim joist or band board to complete your square or rectangle. To support the box in mid air, simply tack on some 2x4's to the joists. These 2x4's drop to the ground and can be placed on top of some scraps of wood so they do not sink into the soil. Try to get the box as level as possible.

Making it Square

If you want the roof, walls, and everything else to work out just fine, the floor of your porch had better be square. Square to a builder means that each corner is a 90 degree angle.

It is easy to square something. As long as the wood floor joists of your square or rectangle are straight (no bows), it will be easy to square. In addition, the opposing sides of the square or rectangle must be the exact same length. In other words a square box already has equal sides (10 x 10 x 10 x 10 feet). A rectangle would be say 12 feet on two sides and the other two would be 16 feet.

If you have accomplished this, take a tape measure and see what the diagonals measure. In other words, stretch a tape across the box corners to make two triangles. When the two diagonals equal one another, your box or rectangle is perfectly square. Brace the box to keep it square. You can figure out the diagonals mathematically if you choose. Just use the Pythagorean theorem (a2 + b2 = c2). The first way I mentioned works great. That is how we would square up walls we built every day in the field.

Read on to "Part II - How to Build a Screen Porch", where we tackle the "bones" of your structure.

CLICK or TAP HERE to get FREE QUOTES from local companies that can build your porch, if you just want to sit back and relax.

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Velcro Screen Manufacturer

Velcro Screen Manufacturer

As I researched this topic, I struggled to find more than one reliable company that makes the Velcro screens. You may have more luck than I did, and if so, I would love to hear from you. But, I feel very comfortable in telling you about the Canadian Company that ships screens to the USA each and everyday.

They are:

Screen Design
% Weso Products Inc.
14 Victoria Ave.
Smiths Falls, Ontario K7A 2P1
Canada
888-290-8277 or 613-283-1947

These folks have a superb system that allows you to take your own measurements and then install the screens on your own. The old problem of getting screens tight is gone forever with this system. Why? Because you stretch the screens yourself and the Velcro strips hold the screens in place.

The other cool thing is that you can span fairly wide expanses with their product. I believe, you can go up to 8 feet, but ask them to be sure.

The Velcro system allows you to roll the screens up and out of the way should you want to create a temporary open air pavilion. I really like this feature.

In addition, you can also buy clear plastic sheets to enclose the space as the weather gets cold. Install a heat source and perhaps the room can be used nine months out of the year!

I urge you to contact this company and get some information. You will not be disappointed with the product. Their turn around time is very good and you will have a screened in porch in no time. Visit their website and check out all of the photos of completed jobs. Perhaps it will stimulate an idea for your own porch.

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Soil

stumps removed and slash

This is the view looking from the road across the rough driveway cut. On the right side of the photo in the shade is a giant pile of slash - tree branches - that will be removed next week. Copyright 2018 Tim Carter

Geology and Soils

We interact with the Earth everyday. We really don't have much choice since we must move about on the face of this glorious planet. However, most of us pay little attention to the ground we walk or build upon. This can be a big mistake. The soil under your feet can change dramatically in type, quality, strength, fertility in as little as 500 feet.

Bedrock Geology & Soil

Soil in the simplest sense is a combination of small weathered pieces of rock, organic material, water, and air. The small pieces of rock determine, for the most part, the overall makeup of the soil.

For example, here in Cincinnati, we have 3 to 4 primary soil groups. These are directly related to the bedrock rock formations. Two of these formations and some of the glacial rock and soil material cause massive land slippage headaches around town. In fact, Cincinnati has the highest per capita damage per household in America due to landslides! I'll bet you didn't know that!

I was fortunate to learn all about this in college since I was a geology major. The trouble is, 99.95 percent of the home buyers in Cincinnati don't have a clue as to the dangerous soil conditions that face them everywhere.

You can almost always obtain free information about the soil conditions in your area from your county agricultural offices or building departments. Even counties that have lost all of their farmland to development have soil information. You simply have to make one or two phone calls to the county headquarters. Be persistent until you find the soil office.

Once you locate this division of your local government, ask for a county soil map. Usually these are books that are filled to the brim with useful information. The books often contain aerial photos which help you locate your street and often your house! The photos contain lines which create boundaries between the different soil types. The soil in a given zone has a symbol. You use this symbol throughout the book to find out all types of different positive and negative qualities about the soil.

For example, the actual description of the soil type tells you how thick the soil might be (in other words, how deep before you hit solid rock), color, depth to certain features within the soil such as perched watertables, etc. Deeper within the book, you get information pertaining to septic system suitability, strength of the soil for roadways and building, shrink/swell characteristics, and much more.

The best part is that this soil map/book is almost always free! Our tax dollars pay for it to be developed and distributed. Don't buy land without one!

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Lot Selection

NH lot clearedSelecting a New or Existing Building Lot

When my wife and I purchased our first house 22 years ago, I didn't give one ounce of consideration to the lot that it sat upon. I simply walked into the house to see if it was beyond repair. I was oblivious to the 15 steps it took to get to the front door. I didn't know exactly where the property lines were. There was a fence along the two sides and the rear, but I couldn't tell you if it belonged to the house or to the next door neighbors.

My wife and I were young and just out of college. We had no experience in dealing with real estate. Playing Monopoly had been my only previous exposure to deeds, mortgages and utilities! Let me tell you, there is no comparison to the real thing!

Now Tim is helping his daughter start the lot selection for her new home. Click here to read about this adventure.

"Real" Estate

When you own land, you have a real asset. More often than not, land tends to appreciate in value. Improvements upon land such as houses, barns, fences, etc. all tend to lose value immediately after construction due to depreciation. That is, they immediately start to wear out.

Of course, some building lots are worth more than others. They will appreciate faster. Why? Because the lots that grow in value at the fastest rate tend to have the highest number of positive qualities. A lot may have a great view. It may be in a desirable neighborhood. A lot may have mature trees. There are numerous positive qualities. Some of the qualities are subjective. Things that appeal to you may not appeal to me. Most of the qualities are objective. Things like utilities, zoning, flooding, etc. are a concern to just about everyone.

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Drainage

! ! ! See Author's Notes at Bottom of Column ! ! !

Make a Model Of Your Lot

If you take some scrap cardboard and trace the different patterns of a topo map onto the cardboard and then cut out each pattern, you can make a 3D model of a building lot or piece of land. You take the cut out patterns and stack them on top of one another. One of the things that becomes very apparent when you do this is the fact that topographic lines that are spaced closely together indicate a steep hill or a cliff in reality. When you build a model, you will find this out in a hurry! If you have kids and are looking for a neat science project, see if their teacher will let you create a 3D model from a topographic map.

Coastal Lots

If you live or are relocating to a low lying coastal area, you know that the land is usually very flat. Try to see if you can raise up your house 12 or 18 inches from the normal level that everyone else builds. Have some extra dirt brought in and use this to taper the soil away from your foundation out towards your lot lines. The end result will be a very gentle slope that offers you lots of protection if a heavy rain floods all of your neighbors' houses.

 Drainage solution- trench drain.

Drainage solution- trench drain.

Soggy Lots

If you have a swampy or soggy lot now and need relief, then you need to look at this drawing.It is a plan or side view drawing of a linear French drain. These simple drainage devices can dry out wet soil in a big hurry.

Keep in mind that water likes to take the path of least resistance. It will flow through gravel much more quickly than through soil. As water migrates from the soil into these trench drains, the water is wicked from adjacent soil towards the drains. The net effect is that your lot dries up.

The backyard of my lot was a swamp each spring. I installed a single linear French drain on the high side of my lot to intercept all of the water that was coming from the land above me. It worked instantly and continues to keep my lot dry as a bone while my neighbor's lot above me is soggy and wet! I keep telling them to install a linear French drain, but they don't seem interested. What was that saying about leading a horse to water?

Drainage issues are critical and they can cost you huge dollars after you move in. It takes some detective work and some thought to figure out what will happen after you move in. Study the land and look at existing subdivisions to see how land forms and shapes affect drainage.


Author's Notes:

You may wonder if my advice is worth anything. Well, read what Jim Sanders wrote to me when he was at the end of his rope:

"Hi, I just wanted to write to give you the results of my "Trench Drain". I have had a wet crawlspace for 15 years. Water would fill the crawlspace at times, so we actually had to drill weep holes at the base so that it would enter the basement and eventually, the sump pump.

I have tried everything. Several contractors said that the only thing we could do was to bring the water into the house via drainage tile and let it enter the sump pump. That would work, but because I live on a 6' elevation, there is no reason that I should have water problems. It became like clockwork...when it rained, we would rush home from the lake or wherever we were vacationing so that we could be prepared to start the backup generator, in case the power failed. We even had our alarm company put a sump alarm on our system, so they could notify us if we had a power failure. Battery backup was not an option, because sometimes we lose power for days and during any rain, our sump would run every 7 minutes...just like clockwork.

I found your site and read the article on the trench or French drain. At first, it sounded a bit like "holistic healing" to me. I failed to understand why a 2 ft. deep trench, 4 ft. away from the house would do any good. How could this simple thing correct an extreme water problem that has plagued me for years, cracked my foundation, settled my garage floor and ruined almost every vacation?

The Linear French Drain trench running from the house. PHOTO CREDIT: Jim Sanders

The Linear French Drain trench running from the house. PHOTO CREDIT: Jim Sanders

I decided "what the heck". I had to dig by hand using a trenching spade and a pick-ax, because the builder back-filled our property with brick and blacktop. It took quite a bit of time. Because the ground level varies so much on that side of the house, I was not able to achieve exactly 2 ft. deep. It varied from 18" to 30" in spots, but the slope was downhill. The trench is about 80 ft. long. At times, I thought about filling it all in, because I just didn’t believe that it would work.

I stoned it, put tile in, and filled it with #1 round stone. I socked the pipe just for safety measure and I also used geotextile fabric on top, so I could cover with dirt and grass. I also ordered some clay and pitched from the house to the drain.

After a short rain, water is running away from the house. PHOTO CREDIT: Jim Sanders

After a short rain, water is running away from the house. PHOTO CREDIT: Jim Sanders

Result? For the last month, we have had 7 or 8 torrential rains, the worst of which was last night. It rained so hard, that our lawn washed out in spots because of the high clay content. Our sump pump, that normally ran every 7 minutes during and after rain, has not turned on for 4 weeks. The silt at the bottom of the sump well is now dry and cracking. Our crawlspace has not shown a trace of water or even moisture.

Since I couldn’t see correcting the foundation cracks or the garage floor settling and tilting until I corrected the problem's source, I waited to see if the trench drain worked first.

This week, I had a company come in and perform sort of a "mud-jacking" technique on the garage floor, which worked perfectly. Also, during the past few weeks, I parged the cracks in the foundation.

A dry sump pump. PHOTO CREDIT: Jim Sanders

A dry sump pump. PHOTO CREDIT: Jim Sanders

I just wanted you to know how this worked. I stressed for many years over this issue and the solution was nowhere near as difficult as I thought it would be.

As a side note, I went to the end of the drain tile during a hard rain to see what was happening. Water was running out of the drain tile in about the same exact volume that it previously ran out of the weep holes in my crawlspace. This winter will be interesting, because last year, the ground next to the house was so saturated that during a thaw, my sump would run constantly. I'm guessing that the ground between the trench and the house will probably be drier now going into this winter."

- Jim Sanders, Upstate area - New York

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local drainage expert contractors.

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Topographic Maps

topographic map

Learning to understand a topographic map that shows elevations will be worth the investment of time.

Back in the early 1990's we had a huge 24 hour rainstorm in my village. I had a rain gauge set up and it indicated that we received about 5.75 inches of rain in that 24 hour period. We had widespread flooding of many houses in my village. Many people couldn't believe how small creek beds that usually only have a trickle of water in them turned into virtual rivers.

Numerous houses had extensive basement flooding caused by streams that overflowed their banks and crushed garage doors and even basement doors in a matter of moments.

The point of the story is that just about everyone of these people never thought they would have a problem. Their houses and building lots didn't seem to be in a danger zone. After the storm and flooding were over, it was obvious that the damaged houses were in low spots or near the bottom of shallow valleys. It took a 100 year storm to point out the problem. This is why you need to think ahead when you buy a lot.

Bathtub Ring

Have you ever notice rings inside of bathtubs? If the tub drains slowly, you will see a number of rings that stair step down toward the bottom of the tub. Each ring represents the level of the water within the tub at a given moment in time. The ring also represents a perfectly level line as standing water in a tub, bottle, pond or lake is level due to the forces of gravity.

You can use this same principal to help you understand the funny crooked, curved and squiggly lines you see on a topographic map. Each of these lines is like a ring in your bathtub. They represent a layer of land or earth that is the exact same height above sea level.

Topographic maps allow you to get an idea of the three dimensional (3D) configuration of the land while looking at a two dimensional piece of paper. It is that simple.

topo map 100 Swain Road

This is a topo map from Google Maps. You just select the Terrain option from the menu to see it. Note the red arrow pointing to the gray lines that have numbers on them. Any point on that line is the same distance above sea level as the number.

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