Retaining Wall Design

Posted on October 2, 2003 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: I need to construct two retaining walls, one in my garden and one along side my driveway. The height of both walls needs to be about 4 1/2 feet tall. Also, the ground above the garden wall will not be level, it will slope upwards from the wall. I have an ample supply of rocks which I can fashion into a wall without mortar. Will this work? What do I need to be concerned with? T. H.

DEAR T.H.: You need to be concerned with several things. The first of which is to check the yellow pages for a structural or civil engineer in your town. I suggest that you arrange for a consultation.

Retaining walls are not simple. The job they are expected to do, hold back soil, involves several critical factors. These factors can be different in each situation.

Basically, engineers look at four things: the proposed height of the wall - the slope of the ground above the wall - the type of soil behind the wall - additional weight applied on the soil above the wall (cars, trucks, structures, etc.).

The tall concrete pier halfway down the wall is plumb. Note how the segmental retaining wall has a cant or backwards lean to it.

Gravity is a primary force working against retaining walls. The creation of a retaining wall alters the dynamic equilibrium of a hillside. Prior to construction of the wall, everything was just fine. The retaining wall is now put in the position of doing the work of the soil that was taken away.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local masonry contractors who can build your new retaining wall.

Retaining wall height is extremely important. As the height of a wall increases, the forces which want to make the wall tip over or slide are increasing at an exponential rate.

CLICK THE IMAGE to get an essential guide on building retaining walls for whatever situation you may be dealing with.

This means that if you double the height of a retaining wall, the forces pushing against the wall could be 3 or 4 times as great. The forces behind retaining walls higher than 3 feet begin to get very impressive.

Need to build a retaining wall? Build a sturdy, durable wall with my Retaining Walls Checklist. I offer a 100% Money Back Guarantee.

The slope of the soil behind a wall also is important. The wall in your garden not only has to contend with the soil behind the wall but also the soil upslope from it. The weight pressing against this wall quite possibly will be measured in thousands of pounds.

Soil drainage capabilities are also important. A soil which retains water will put additional loads against the wall during rainy seasons. For this reason, retaining walls should be designed with excellent drainage systems within the soil behind the wall.

CLICK THE IMAGE to get a woven geotextile that will keep soil in place.

Install drainage tile, washed gravel backfill, geo-tech fabrics to prevent siltation of the gravel backfill, and weep holes within the wall to allow water to escape from behind the wall.

Often, retaining walls are created for parking lots, driveways, etc. As vehicles pass over the ground above the wall, they add additional weight which engineers call surcharge. In some cases, this weight can be extreme.

For example, imagine a fully loaded concrete truck on your driveway. These trucks can, in some instances, weigh 35 tons. Poorly engineered walls can not resist this type of loading.

Your situation, I feel, calls for a different type of retaining wall. The wall you are proposing is commonly referred to as a gravity wall. It relies on its own weight to resist the tipping and sliding forces working against retaining walls.

CLICK THE IMAGE to view a wide selection of books and guides on how to build, drain, and design retaining walls.

The engineer you call will probably suggest a cantilever wall, counterfort, or buttress wall. All of these can be faced with the stone which you have available.

Many retaining walls require vast amounts of time, labor, and money. Don't gamble if the wall is higher than 3 feet. The services of a qualified engineer will afford you great peace of mind. If you want a user friendly retaining wall system that minimizes labor, then read Stackable & Segmental Retaining Walls.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local masonry contractors who can build your new retaining wall.

Read my column Retaining Wall Basics and Blacktop Cracks for a reader's question on a failing retaining wall.

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Plaster vs. Drywall

Posted on October 2, 2003 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: Help! My husband wants to install drywall in our new room addition project. Drywall seems to dent easily and the finishing process involves tremendous quantities of dust. Is it still possible to use old fashioned plaster? Is it still manufactured, and if so, is it expensive? S. O.

DEAR S. O.: Do I ever have good news for you! Not only is plaster still available, it is, in my opinion, a tremendous value.

Your observation of drywall's tenderness is quite accurate. Drywall is, by and large, a fantastic product. However, the soft (relatively speaking) gypsum core of drywall is simply covered with a thick paper. It doesn't take much force to create a dent in drywall surfaces. Plaster surfaces, on the other hand, are much harder.

Plaster, in many respects, can be compared with concrete. Plaster, like concrete, begins as a mixture of dry compounds. When mixed with water, a chemical reaction begins to occur.

This chemical reaction causes the ingredients to begin a crystallization process. Within several hours,enough crystals have formed to cause the plaster to become solid. These crystals interlock with one another and form a dense, hard surface.

Plastering systems have come a long way in the past 70 years. Many years ago, plaster was applied over thin wood strips called lath boards. The plaster sometimes had horse hair added to make it stronger. Modern advancements have led to veneer plaster systems.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local Contractors who can install your new plaster wall.

These systems incorporate many of the advantages of drywall to make them cost effective. Horse hair is no longer needed for strength. Modern plaster compounds are exceedingly strong.

Learn the secrets to great drywall and plaster techniques in this Drywall / Plaster Installation Checklist. I offer a 100% Money Back Guarantee.

Plaster veneer systems are applied over special gypsum core boards very similar to regular drywall. However, there is a very important distinction between the two. If you intend to plaster, you must use a gypsum board often referred to as blue board.

This board is manufactured using a special paper which has a distinctive blue color. The blue paper can readily accept the large quantity of water from the plaster without causing damage to the inner gypsum core. This paper also helps to insure a good bond between the plaster and the gypsum board.

Veneer plaster work has two other advantages. Once the blue board is fastened to the walls and ceilings, dust can be kept to a minimum. The wet plaster is applied to the blue board and dries to a smooth, hard finish. The plaster requires no sanding after it drys. A professional plasterer can achieve a finish which is as smooth as glass.

CLICK THE IMAGE to get a Durable Taping Knife for Drywall and Plaster projects.

The other advantage is speed. Some veneer plasters are one step operations. The plasterer trowels it on and finishes it in one step. Small jobs can be totally completed in one day. Your job, however, would only take two days. The blue board would be hung the first day and the plasterer would finish it on the second day. A similar drywall job would last five to six days.

Plaster is affordable. Often, a one coat veneer systems only costs 25 percent more than a similar drywall job. A drywall job for an average house in the Midwest costs approximately $4,800. An upgrade to plaster may only add $1,200 to the overall cost of the job.

While that may seem like a substantial amount, consider the fact that you only get one chance to do this. If you decide, after your home or room addition is built, to switch from drywall to plaster, you will have to remove the drywall and start over. Give serious consideration to using plaster on your next project. I'm confident that you will be satisfied.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local Contractors who can install your new plaster wall.

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Vinyl Flooring Alternatives

Posted on October 2, 2003 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: I am considering alternatives for a new kitchen floor. A surface which is virtually maintenance free would be highly desirable. Is such a material available? I am not interested in hardwood or ceramic materials. Can you suggest alternatives? M. H.

DEAR M. H.: You have come to the right source! I would be glad to offer you alternatives. You are the perfect candidate for resilient flooring.

Resilient flooring refers to any vinyl flooring product, such as vinyl tiles and sheet vinyl flooring. Many homeowners still use the term 'linoleum' for resilient sheet vinyl.

Modern resilient flooring has come a long way from the days of linoleum. The vinyl flooring materials available today offer a wide variety of styles, patterns, and colors. Because these materials incorporate modern plastics, they can also be extremely durable.

Modern sheet vinyl flooring is manufactured in layers, much like a layer cake. Colors and patterns are incorporated in the middle layers. Sheet vinyl flooring derives its durability from its upper layer, often called the wearlayer.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local flooring contractors who can install a new or replacement vinyl floor.

This wearlayer, in many cases, is a clear vinyl resin available in different thicknesses. Generally speaking, the thicker the wearlayer the more expensive and longer lasting the product will be. The thickness of wearlayers can range from 0.005 to 0.025 of an inch.

Many of the sheet vinyl floors have a very high gloss. This gloss is often achieved by adding a urethane on top of the clear, vinyl wearlayer. These urethanes often are as durable as the urethanes which are used on hardwood flooring.

Depending upon the size of the room in which you intend to use sheet vinyl flooring, you may be able to install it in one giant piece. Many patterns and styles are available in 12 foot widths. In the event your room is wider than 12 feet, it is not a problem.

Because the flooring is, for the most part, plastic, special glues have been developed to join pieces together. This glue, or seam sealer, actually welds the two pieces of flooring together into one solid piece.

CLICK THE IMAGE to order Vinyl flooring that can simulate slate, marble and other materials.

Many resilient flooring products are just that. They have a bounce or cushioning quality. This is achieved by incorporating a thin layer of foam in the bottom of the product. If you intend to spend a great deal of time standing or walking in your kitchen, your legs and back may not ache as much at the end of the day.

Vinyl tiles are also an alternative. These products are often available in pieces one foot square. They often are available in two thicknesses, 1/16 and 1/8 inch. Vinyl tiles floors can withstand tremendous amounts of abuse.

These floors also have a clear vinyl or urethane finish which makes them easy to clean and care for. Some manufactures of these tiles go to great lengths to precision grind the edges of each tile. This effort produces a floor which has the appearance of a similar one piece sheet vinyl floor.

Maintenance of resilient flooring is quite simple in many instances. Because the upper layers are plastic, these floors are rarely harmed by household spills. Simply wipe up spills with a damp mop or cloth and remove dust and grit on a regular basis. This simple, ordinary work will reward you with a brilliant floor for many years to come.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local flooring contractors who can install a new or replacement vinyl floor.

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Home Construction – Eco-Friendly

Posted on October 2, 2003 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: I am planning to build a new home soon. Protecting our natural resources, energy efficiency, and minimizing damage to the environment are extremely important to me. What can I do to be 'environmentally' responsible as I build? Are there any programs or guidelines available which to follow? E. G.

DEAR E. G.: The eco-friendly or 'green' movement has become very popular in residential construction. There are many environmentally friendly products available. Building practices are also changing to reflect the responsible attitude people, such as yourself, have towards the environment.

Fortunately, within the past year, a program has been developed to help you build your home and satisfy all of your concerns. If you fulfill many of the guidelines outlined in this program, you can reduce the environmental impact of construction by a minimum of 25 percent. The name of this program is "The Good Cents Environmental Home program.

This home construction program is very unique in that it measures the impact on the external environment and helps to improve the interior environment of the house as well. It achieves this goal by examining the following areas: energy efficiency, building materials, construction practices, water efficiency, building design, and ecological living.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local companies who can help make your home more energy efficient.

Individuals who wish to enroll in this program must do so through their builder. Many local utility companies across the nation have information regarding this program. Your plans, materials, house fixtures, construction practices, etc. are graded, much like a test.

In order to have your new home certified as a "Good Cents Environmental Home", you must accumulate a minimum of 700 "EcoScore" points out of a total of 1,300.

Points are scored by answering 'yes' to questions in each of the six categories mentioned above. The questions deal with specific topics such as landscape plants which require little watering, availability of walking or bike paths, disposal of unused paints and sealers, use of organic pesticides and herbicides, etc.

The benefits to the environment are significant. Houses which conform to the guidelines help to conserve electricity over the life span of the structure. Conservation of electricity minimizes the amount of carbon dioxide, sulfur dioxide, and nitrous oxide emissions.

Good Cents Environmental Homes also conserve fresh water. Because of minimal waste and intelligent construction practices, construction debris is kept to a minimum. This helps to extend the life span of our landfills.

The "Good Cents Environmental Home" program is a spin off of the original "Good Cents" energy efficiency program which appeared approximately 18-years-ago. That program was, and still is, licensed by almost 300 utility companies in 29 states.

Many of these same utility companies will, in all likelihood, license this new program as well. Consider contacting your local utility company to see if they are currently participating in the new program.

Environmentally friendly building is not that difficult. As with anything, it requires planning. Almost all manufacturers of building products are doing something to make their products 'green'. You won't have any trouble finding products which will help you achieve your environmental goals.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local companies who can help make your home more energy efficient.

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Solid Surface Countertops

Posted on October 2, 2003 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: I am developing plans for a major kitchen remodeling job. The solid surface countertop materials appeal to me. My husband is skeptical of their long term durability. Are they all the same, or are there distinct differences? Are there other long lasting countertop alternatives? Do you feel that solid surface materials are a good value? T. T.

DEAR T. T.: After installing hundreds of different countertops as a builder, I can see why the solid surface countertops appeal to you. All of my customers who have purchased them have been delighted with the material. Solid surface countertops are both beautiful and easy to care for. I feel that they represent a fantastic value.

Solid surface countertops have been available for over 25 years. They are a product of the plastics industry. Plastics, in one form or another, dominate the kitchen and bath countertop industry.

The vast majority of plastic countertops are made from thin sheets of plastic laminated to wood or wood by-product substrates. Solid surface countertops are simply that, they are solid plastic.

The solid nature of these materials offers distinct advantages. Colors and patterns are solid throughout the material. These solid surface materials have many of the same properties of wood, which allows them to be shaped and molded into countless shapes and figures.

Because the material is plastic, special adhesives allow separate pieces of the material to be welded to one another to make one solid piece. These adhesives actually cause the plastic molecules of one piece to interlock with the molecules of the other piece.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local contractors who can install a new Solid Surface Countertop in your home.

Solid surface countertops do have distinct differences. Different materials are made from different plastics. Some materials are primarily acrylic while others are a blend of acrylic and polyester plastics. Those solid surface materials which have a high content of acrylic plastic seem to have higher performance standards.

Your husband's concerns about durability are, for the most part, groundless. These materials have excellent characteristics. They have great impact resistance. Virtually all of them are nonporous, so they are unaffected by food and liquid stains. These nonporous surfaces also inhibit the growth of bacteria, mold, and germs.

If you've suffered damage to your Solid Surface Countertop CLICK THE IMAGE to get an all inclusive kit to repair the damage.

A unique property of these solid surface materials is their ability to be easily repaired. Scratches can be buffed out by hand. Cigarette burns can be sanded away. Severe damage to the surfaces can also be repaired in virtually all instances. To the best of my knowledge, no other countertop material can make similar claims.

Solid surface countertops do have a slight drawback. Excessive, concentrated heat can damage the surfaces. However, this problem is frequently overcome with the use of decorative trivets made from the scrap material from the sink and cooktop cutouts.

You do have other alternatives, however, no single one seems to have as many advantages as solid surface materials. Natural stone products, such as marble and granite, can be difficult to repair. Solid color laminate plastics offer fewer advantages, yet cost virtually the same as solid surface materials.

Artificial stone products, because of their composition, do not seem to perform as well as the plastics. Remember, as with many other things, you get what you pay for!

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local contractors who can install a new Solid Surface Countertop in your home.

Column 041

Job Pricing -Time & Material Method

Posted on October 2, 2003 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: I just received three bids for a major remodeling / rehabilitation project for my home. I have an excellent set of blueprints and written specifications for the work. Two of the contractors have suggested doing the job "time and material". They indicated that I would save money in the long run. I'm not quite sure I agree. What do you recommend that I should do? L. M.

DEAR L. M.: I recommend that you meet with the two contractors who have suggested this method and ask them a series of hard questions. A time and material job, in your case, could become a financial nightmare.

Based upon the facts which you presented to me, I do not feel that your job is a candidate for the time and material approach. Time and material jobs seem to work out for the best when there are many 'unknowns' about a job. Because your plans and specifications are so complete, there is virtually no speculation attached to your remodeling project.

Job pricing

A major problem associated with time and material projects is one of accountability. It is easy for workers on the job to loose the incentive to be as productive as possible.

Mistakes made by workmen can be buried in the cost of the job. Material waste can become a problem. The temptation for dishonesty is exceedingly great.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local contractors who can finish your new remodeling project.

Time and material jobs, when performed by honest contractors, do permit a homeowner to pay exactly what a job should cost. Certain remodeling jobs may encounter hidden defects.

Planners may make false assumptions regarding the existing structural soundness of an existing home. Water or termite damage may be discovered. Poor soil conditions may exist at the construction site.

However, professional contractors almost always know when these things may be encountered. They can discuss with you these aspects of your job during the bidding stage.

Those areas of the job which may have hidden costs can be approached on a time and material basis. All other aspects should be quoted as fixed costs like a regular bid.

There are certain jobs which do work well in a time and material format. However, I highly recommend that a 'not - to -exceed' figure be called for if you must do business this way.

With such a figure, you, the homeowner, have some form of cost control. A time and material job with no cost control is like a financial time bomb waiting to go off.

I suggest that you ask the following questions to the contractors who wish to work 'time and material': What aspects of the job are unclear? What is prohibiting them from attaching specific time estimates to specific tasks?

Why can't material costs be accurately forecast? If certain tasks remain unclear, or hidden conditions exist, what is the worst case scenario for that aspect of the job? In other words, how much will that aspect cost if everything possible goes wrong.

Finally, if you must do a job 'time and material' let me make the following suggestions. Obtain specific material costs and quantities. Obtain a list of workmen and the labor rate that each will be paid.

Arrange for close monitoring to make sure that each person did, in fact, work the amount for which you are being charged. By all means, insist on a not - to - exceed number. The contractor should be able to predict the worst case scenario.

Always obtain at least 2 - 3 estimates. Different contractors may have a more innovative approach which can possibly save you time and money.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local contractors who can finish your new remodeling project.

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Paint Stucco – or Not?

Posted on October 2, 2003 by Tim Carter

Painting stucco is not necessary. This cement stucco has never been painted. It's decades old and is in great shape. You can extend its life by applying a clear silane-siloxane water repellent. CLICK HERE to have this repellent delivered to your home in days

"Untreated concrete and stucco will readily absorb water. Both will allow water vapor to freely pass through them. You want water to evaporate from concrete and stucco as fast as possible to avoid damage."

Is Painting Stucco Bad? - Well, It's Not What I'd Do!

DEAR TIM: The stucco on my house has been painted many times. There are large areas which are peeling. Concrete, which is virtually maintenance free, seems very similar to stucco. If this is so, does stucco require painting? Are there alternatives to using paint? G. F.

DEAR G. F.: Your observation concerning the similarities of stucco and concrete is right on target. The two materials, for the most part, have very much in common. Concrete usually consists of cement, sand, and varying sizes of aggregate (gravel).

What is Stucco?

Stucco, on the other hand, usually consists of cement, hydrated lime, and sand. When concrete is finished, its surface and that of stucco are virtually the same.

However, there is a big difference. In a majority of residential applications, concrete is applied in contact with the ground. Stucco is applied to the sides of many houses in lieu of brick, stone, siding, or similar weather shielding material.

Does Stucco Absorb Water?

Untreated concrete and stucco will readily absorb water. Both will allow water vapor to freely pass through them. You want water to evaporate from concrete and stucco as fast as possible to avoid damage.

Do you see where I am headed with this one?

Free & Fast Bids

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local painters who can paint or stain your exterior walls.

What Happens If Stucco Stays Wet?

If a concrete sidewalk or driveway gets wet, it's no big deal. However, if stucco gets wet for extended periods of time, this moisture can cause problems. Water may eventually wick through the stucco and begin to rot the wood sheathing or wood framing members. Water vapor may be pulled into the house.

What Happens if Water Leaks Through Stucco?

This may cause the insulation to become wet, drywall or plaster to crumble, and interior paint to peel. Stucco should have a protective coating of some type to prevent interior or structural problems to your home. 50 years ago, the only material available to readily protect the stucco was paint.

Why is Painting Stucco a Bad Idea?

Paint is a coating. Because of its viscosity, it does not readily penetrate things that it covers.

Paint will peel over time. That's why you are experiencing the peeling problems. Water vapor from the inside of your house may be pushing the paint off of the stucco. This is a very common problem on thousands of houses.

Can You Add Color to Stucco?

Yes, you can add dry pigments to cement stucco just like pigment is added to paint. You can tint stucco any color you want.

Can You Spray a Clear Water Repellent on Stucco?

Yes, there are great clear silane-siloxane water repellents for cement stucco. These are the same products recommended for concrete slabs on grade.

This is a magnificent silane-siloxane water repellent that soaks into concrete or stucco. CLICK HERE to have it delivered to your home in days.

Are There Great Products That Don't Peel?

Fortunately, advancements in coatings technology have produced products which will enable you to avoid peeling in the future. If you're able to remove the paint from your stucco completely, or had it never been painted before, you would have two alternatives. The choices available to you are either penetrating masonry stains or clear penetrating finishes.

This is a great penetrating stain that will protect stucco. You can buy it in lots of different colors. It will NOT peel. CLICK HERE or THE IMAGE now to have it delivered to your home.

These products are extremely effective, because they take advantage of the microscopic makeup of concrete and stucco. Stucco and concrete look very much alike under a microscope.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local companies who can remove or strip paint and stains on your walls.

Are There Small Spaces in Stucco?

The space between the aggregate (sand and gravel) is comprised of interlocking crystals. The crystals have void spaces between the interlocking needles of each crystal.

If you were small enough to climb through the spaces you could travel from one side of the stucco to the other without much difficulty.

How Do the Stains and Water Repellents Work?

The penetrating finishes take advantage of these void spaces. The liquid nature of these products allows them to penetrate into the crystalline matrix. After the liquid portion of the product evaporates, the small solid parts are left behind to partially plug up the void spaces.

Some of the products are designed that they will not allow liquid water molecules to pass by, however, water vapor can readily pass through. This is an advantage, in the event water vapor from the inside of your house is trying to get to the outside air.

I recommend that you give serious consideration to these products, as you prepare to recoat your peeling stucco. You will not be disappointed.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local painters who can paint or stain your exterior walls.

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Why Cork Flooring

Posted on October 2, 2003 by Tim Carter

Cork Flooring

DEAR TIM: I was beginning to shop for wood flooring the other day. A visit to a local wood flooring dealer left me perplexed. The salesperson showed me samples of cork flooring. At first, I thought he was joking. Isn't it too soft to use for flooring? Is it really a suitable flooring for heavy traffic areas? A.B.

DEAR A. B.: You should consider yourself extremely fortunate. Should you decide to select it for your home, you will not be disappointed. Cork flooring is one of the most interesting wood floor products that I know of.

If you are an environmentalist, you will love cork flooring. The cork which is used to produce the flooring is harvested from the bark of the cork oak tree. These trees grow primarily in Portugal, Spain, and Tunisia. The cork is harvested approximately every nine years. Amazingly, the cork bark grows back with no harm whatsoever to the tree!

Cork is probably the ultimate resilient flooring. It has excellent shock absorbing and sound deadening properties because of its unique cellular structure. Fifty percent of the volume of the material is comprised of air! These small pockets of air act as natural shock absorbers. Thus, walking or standing on the floor produces little fatigue. Cork also has the ability to absorb sound waves. Rooms with cork flooring are unusually quiet.

Because of its lack of grain, cork flooring offers a unique look. Cork flooring is made by grinding up the bark into small pieces. These pieces are then coated with a non-toxic resin binder. The flooring is produce in sheets of different thickness and often cut into precision 12 inch by 12 inch pieces. When installed, the floor has a very attractive smooth 'pebbled' appearance.

Cork flooring is available in different colors. However, you won't believe how the cork is colored. The cork is placed in ovens and baked. The longer it remains in the ovens, the darker it becomes.It is available in a wide range of colors. The cork can be installed natural (a light tannish brown) or you can request a deep brown similar to dark walnut.

Author's Note: If you want a cork floor of your own and want to see how easy it is to install, you should consider buying my Cork Flooring eBook. It has wonderful step-by-step color photos and easy to follow directions. I guarantee your satisfaction!

Adhesives are used to install cork flooring. The material is also easily cut with a razor knife. Cork flooring can be purchased prefinished, however, finishing the material on site makes for a virtually seamless floor. The best results are achieved by performing a light sanding before applying urethane. Due to its porosity, the cork may require 4 - 5 coats of urethane. Urethane coated cork is extremely durable. Remember, when you walk on a finished floor you wear away the finish, not the flooring.

Your concerns about cork's softness are legitimate. There are some simple precautions you must take with cork flooring. Because it is resilient, heavy furniture can permanently dent it. It is suggested that you use high quality furniture pads beneath table or furniture legs. Also, as with any wood floor, water, in excessive amounts can damage the flooring. Cork flooring should not be installed in basements which may be subject to seepage or flooding.

The maintenance of cork flooring is similar to any standard wood flooring. Simple periodic vacuuming of dust and grit will prevent scratches. Spills should be wiped up with a damp sponge or cloth. Cleaning should be done with mild detergent and a damp mop. Avoid waxing the floor if you have applied urethane finish. The wax may cause problems at a later date, should you decide to brighten the floor with an additional coat of urethane.

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Hot Water Heater Failure

Posted on October 2, 2003 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: I have just replaced my hot water heater. It was installed just 4-years-ago. This is the second time this has happened. Why is the tank corroding so quickly? Also, the plumber installed a funny looking small tank on the cold water line this time. Will this help extend the life of my new hot water heater? T. Q.

DEAR T. Q.: You are not alone in your misery. For a variety of reasons, many homeowners suffer from reduced water heater lives. There are some steps you can take to possibly extend the life of your hot water heater.

Hot water heater tanks are made from steel. We all know that when exposed to moisture and oxygen, steel will rapidly corrode. Water heater manufacturers, during the 1950's, began to apply a thin glass coating on the inside of water heaters. This coating isolates the steel from the water and dissolved oxygen within the tank. However, certain parts of the tank (inlet / outlet nipples, tank fittings, etc.) can not be easily coated with glass. These can and will corrode.

Water acidity, electrical conductivity, dissolved oxygen, and temperature contribute to water heater corrosion. The first three items are present in varying quantities depending upon the source of your water supply. The water temperature within the tank can also vary, depending upon how high you set the thermostat. As water temperature rises, so does the rate of corrosion.

All water supply systems have dissolved minerals within the water. These dissolved minerals enable the water to conduct electricity. Those people who have well water, or municipalities that draw water from deep wells can have high amounts of dissolved minerals within the water. As the mineral content of water rises, so does its ability to conduct electricity. This flow of electricity within the tank begins to attack the parts which do not have a glass lining.

To offset this corrosion process, manufacturers install a magnesium anode rod within each tank. This rod serves as a miniature lightning rod. The electrical current present in the water is attracted to this rod. The magnesium corrodes easier than the other parts. If your water conditions cause high electrical conductivity, this anode rod can be corroded in a short period of time. Once it is gone, the electricity begins to corrode the other tank parts. Fortunately, anode rods can be replaced. Have a qualified service technician check yours every year.

The little tank that the plumber installed will extend the life of your water heater, but for an entirely different reason. Water expands when it is heated. This expanded water used to simply push the water in your cold water line back into the city water main. However, many public water systems are requiring backflow prevention devices to be installed on residential water systems. These devices prevent water from your house being drawn back into the public water supply. Broken water mains, fire trucks, etc. can actually siphon water from your water pipes.

These backflow devices block the expanding water. The little tank is an expansion tank which acts as a temporary storage site for the expanded water. Without this tank, your hot water heater may fail because of the high internal pressures created by the expanding water. Some water heaters burn natural gas or propane. The internal flues which exhaust the combustion gases can collapse because of high internal pressures. A collapsed flue could cause carbon monoxide to concentrate within your house. Expansion tanks are good ideas. Consider installing one with your next hot water heater.

Poured Concrete Walls vs. Concrete Block

Posted on October 2, 2003 by Tim Carter

Here are some great cast concrete, formal term for poured walls, foundation walls that were formed and poured in ONE DAY just down the street from where I live. You'd NEVER build block walls that fast. (C) Copyright 2016 Tim Carter

Poured Concrete vs Block Wall TIPS Just Below

FAST TIPS for Poured vs Block Walls:

Block walls can be as strong or stronger than poured walls
Block and concrete are strong in compression, but weak in tension
Reinforcing steel needs to be in block walls - both vertical and horizontal
Block cores must be filled with pea-gravel concrete
Poured, or cast, walls must have horizontal steel top and bottom

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS for foundations walls for your new home.

DEAR TIM: I am getting ready to construct a new home with a full basement. I am convinced that poured concrete walls are stronger than concrete block walls. However, a friend of mine has told me that there is no difference. My contractor has indicated that there are many factors that control overall strength in each type of wall. Can you shed any light on the subject? J. D.

DEAR J. D.: First of all, I can tell you that your contractor is quite right in his statement. There are many variables which control overall strength of masonry or poured concrete basement foundation walls. Design strength of the concrete, concrete blocks, and mortar are very important. The thickness of the wall with regard to its height is also extremely important.

For the most part, each type of wall has two categories, reinforced and non-reinforced. A reinforced wall, either poured concrete or concrete block, always contains some form of reinforcing steel. The presence of reinforcing steel dramatically increases the overall strength characteristics of masonry or concrete.

However, let's compare two 8 inch thick walls. One will be poured concrete, while the other one will be standard 8 inch hollow core block. There are two forces which act primarily upon foundation walls. The one force is a downward force (gravity load) created by the load placed upon the wall. The other force is a sideways or lateral force caused by the backfill or earth which is placed against the wall.

The strength of concrete is often measured in pounds per square inch. This is a measure of the weight that it will support before fracturing. You can apply these same standards to concrete blocks and mortar. Let's assume that each of the test walls have the same strength. The strength of each wall is directly proportional to its cross sectional area. In our example, a standard concrete block wall may only be half as strong as the poured concrete wall when a gravity load is applied to it. This is due to the hollow voids within the wall.

When you apply a lateral load to these two walls, you will achieve similar results. The poured concrete wall has more mass or interlocking cement paste crystals to resist the cracking force. The hollow block wall is depending solely on the strength of the thin mortar bed between each concrete block.

The addition of reinforcing steel to either wall system complicates the issue. For example, you can make a concrete block wall stronger than a poured concrete wall, by simply adding some reinforcing steel and additional mortar to the block wall. The trick is to insert vertical steel rods from top to bottom in the hollow cores and fill those hollow cores to the top with mortar. The addition of thin wire truss reinforcing steel in between the layers of block will add even more strength. This block wall would be far stronger than a similar non-reinforced concrete wall.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS for foundations walls for your new home.

Your best bet, in my opinion, is to install a steel reinforced poured concrete wall. Have your foundation contractor install two 5/8 inch horizontal reinforcing bars about 16 inches from the bottom and top of the wall. These bars will minimize cracking if your soil beneath the footer rises or falls.

Consider installing singular vertical bars approximately two inches away from the inside face of the foundation wall every two feet on center. These bars will help withstand the bending force caused by the backfill dirt.

Remember, you only get one chance to install reinforcing steel. Spend the extra money and your foundation will not let you down.

GET THIS BOOK NOW. CLICK THE IMAGE TO BUY IT.

If you want to learn lots about how concrete should be installed, you must buy a copy of a neat paperback book published by the Portland Cement Association. It is titled Design and Control of Concrete Mixtures. This book is a little technical, but it has many very important facts and guidelines that will help you order and place concrete under all sorts of site and weather conditions.

The Portland Cement Association has another book called The Homeowners Guide to Working With Concrete, Brick and Stone. This swell book contains some great photos, illustrations and numerous tables. It educates you about how to order and work with concrete. The book also shows you how to install brick and stone. It is a must have! To buy it now, just click it.

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