Patriotism is Never Out of Style

Posted on July 30, 2003 by Tim Carter

Flag Poles | The good news is that you can create a home built flagpole that will be durable and maintenance free for many years.

DEAR TIM: Prior to the terrorist attack on the World Trade Center I was a ho-hum patriot. The vicious act has galvanized me into action. I want an in-ground flagpole and I want one now. How can I make a sturdy flagpole that will stand 15 to 20 feet tall so I can proudly fly Old Glory each and every day? What do I need to know? Do you think the average homeowner can do this inexpensively? Bill B., Sea Girt, NJ

DEAR BILL: You are a great American my friend! I think it is a splendid idea to build a flagpole. The day after the attack I took out my large 5 foot by 8 foot Old Glory and hung it from the hooks on my front porch. Prior to the attack I just displayed the flag on national holidays. But my wife and I now feel that was a mistake. We should have been flying the flag each and every day. Until such time as you complete your flagpole, figure out a way to respectfully fly your flag.

The good news is that you can create a home built flagpole that will be durable and maintenance free for many years. The supplies to build the flagpole cost just a tad over $100.00. This flagpole will work just as well as a factory made one.

Call a local plumbing supply house and see if they stock two inch inner diameter galvanized iron pipe. If so, you are in luck. These normally come in 21 foot lengths. You will need them to deliver it unless you have a truck with ladder racks. The pipe will be a little heavy and very gangly. While you are at the plumbing supply house, purchase two stainless steel band clamps that will fit around this pipe with plenty of slack. You will need these clamps to attach the rope cleat to the pole. The rope cleat is the bent hook device that captures and holds the halyard or flagpole rope.

The most important part to obtain is the truck that sits at the top of the pole. This is the pipe capping device that contains the pulley wheel. You can buy a simple pulley if you wish and creatively attach it to the top of the pole but a truck assembly is made to fit perfectly on top of the pipe. Factory built flagpoles often have sophisticated single and double truck assemblies so that two flags can be flown from the same pole. The deluxe models have trucks that rotate freely so the flag doesn't wrap around the pole as the wind direction changes.

Since your pole will be relatively short, you need not be too concerned about wind problems. High winds create enormous amounts of drag on flags and a flag that is too large on a tall flag pole can actually cause the pole to bend or snap. Your 2 inch galvanized iron pipe will easily support a 5 foot by 8 foot flag in a high wind.

It is very important to install the base of the pipe in a solid foundation. The two inch iron pipe needs to slide into a pipe sleeve that has an inner diameter slightly larger than the outer diameter of the flagpole. You can often find this pipe at a welding shop. I would purchase a 3 foot length of this pipe and have the welder tack a 6 inch by 6 inch flat steel plate on the bottom. Do not weld the plate solidly to the bottom of the sleeve pipe. Water needs to be able to drain out of this pipe as it collects during rain storms.

This top of this sleeve needs to be flush with the ground level and should be surrounded with concrete. Place at least 6 inches of concrete under the sleeve and 12 inches around the sides of the sleeve. It is best to pour the concrete in two separate pours. Pour the 6 inch footer first and let it harden. Then place the sleeve in the ground and use a level to plumb it. Slowly pour stiff concrete mix into the hole around the sleeve. As you pour the concrete take periodic readings to make sure the sleeve is indeed perfectly plumb. Let the concrete cure for at least a week before you insert the galvanized pipe into the sleeve. Be sure you attach the truck to the top of the pole before you do this. Prior to erecting the pipe check for overhead high voltage wires. Electrocution is a real danger if the pipe contacts an energized conductor.

Factory made flagpoles are installed in the same manner. Many of them have fancy hardware and gorgeous metal finishes. The least expensive pole may cost you $275 or more. What's more, the recent surge in patriotism may create a demand that will outstrip the current supply. Old Glory will not be offended in the least if you fly her from a simple yet effective galvanized flagpole.

Column 381

Masking Tapes

Posted on July 30, 2003 by Tim Carter

Masking Tape - The old standard is right there in the middle - the beige rubber - based masking tape. But look at all of the fascinating tape products that surround it!

DEAR TIM: I gave up on using traditional beige masking tape years ago. It destroyed several finishes, stuck to my glass windows and hardwood floors and basically was more trouble than it was worth. Now I see different colored masking tapes at the hardware store. Is this just a clever trick to repackage a product that has disappointed me far too many times? Are there masking tapes that indeed work? Tara C., Yakima, WA

DEAR TARA: Ouch! I definitely feel your pain. You and I and most likely millions of other contractors and homeowners have ruined painted finishes, floors, furniture and wallpaper by trusting traditional masking tape. Traditional beige masking tape, to the best of my knowledge, has never come with instructions. All the tape manufacturers needed to tell us was that you can not leave it in place for much longer than 4 to 24 hours on most surfaces and to never use it on other delicate surfaces. The good news is that there are a multitude of ouchless, user friendly, high performance masking tapes available today.

The beige masking tape that you see in many paint stores and hardware stores was developed nearly 80 years ago. The adhesive on many of them is rubber based. When you apply the tape to a surface the solvents in the adhesive often soak into that porous surface. The mechanical bond of the tape to the object increases as more of this solvent leaves the adhesive. Heat and ultraviolet (UV) light can rapidly increase the setting time to such a degree that in some cases the tape can't be easily removed in just four hours! If you leave traditional masking tape on for days or weeks at a time, it can become a nightmare to remove.

About 15 years ago, the masking tape industry responded. New tapes were developed that use an acrylic based adhesive that is much more forgiving. In fact many of the acrylic adhesives are so highly refined and UV resistant that certain tapes can be left in place for longer periods of time with little risk of damaging the surface you are trying to protect from paint or stain brush strokes or over-spray.

The tape manufacturers also came to realize that no one masking tape could do all things for all people. This is another reason why there has been an explosion of different tapes in just the past five years. You can purchase a masking tape that will safely protect delicate wall paper or a 6 hour old faux paint finish. If you need to apply masking tape to a coarse surface like concrete block or rough wood siding you can now buy a tape that will do the job and release cleanly. No matter what the job, there is very likely a specific tape that will yield magical results

Masking tapes fail or harm surfaces when they are left on a surface too long. Many of the new tapes are labeled in such a way that they clearly indicate the maximum time you should leave them in place. Some manufacturers have even gone so far as to print use instructions and guidelines on the inner core of the roll so you have a built-in users guide with you at all times. This is indeed a handy feature.

One of the coolest safe release tapes I have seen is a yellow one that looks like you glued a tape measure to a wall. The tape has highly accurate inch markings - from 1 to 96 - split up into16ths of an inch that repeat every eight feet. This is a handy tape to use if you are faux painting and need to create perfectly aligned strips on a wall or ceiling. Use your imagination for other uses of this neat tape.

You can still have problems with certain new masking tapes. If you are trying to create crisp lines or pin stripes and are painting with latex paint, you should apply the tape to the surface and use significant pressure on the paint edge line. This will prevent paint from seeping below the taped edge. Immediately after you apply the paint, remove the tape. As you pull the tape off the surface, keep it at a 90 degree angle from the surface to get the most crisp line. If you wait for hours or days to pull the tape, you can have a real mess.

Column 382

The Next Generation of Vinyl Siding – Solid Core

Posted on July 30, 2003 by Tim Carter

Read Author's Notes at the End of This Column

Vinyl Siding - Solid Core

DEAR TIM: Lately energy costs are quite unstable. Add to that the rising cost of about everything. I need to save money. I love the look of painted wood siding but don't want to break out a paint brush every five to seven years. Is there a vinyl siding product that really looks like wood and offers superior energy efficiency? When I add the siding to my home, what can I do to stop or minimize outside noise from getting into my home? Randy T., Dublin, OH

DEAR RANDY: Anyone who thinks energy prices are going to go down and stay down in the near future needs to wake up. Much of the energy we use to heat and cool our homes comes from natural resources that can not be replenished as fast as we use them. As the population grows and the resources dwindle, energy prices will most certainly rise. It is very wise for you to think about reducing energy costs with each and every building material you choose.

Vinyl siding was first introduced in 1957. Believe it or not, the product has not changed radically until this year. One of its claims to fame has always been the no maintenance attribute. Once you install vinyl, it rarely requires care. But the stumbling block for many years has always been its appearance. For years, manufacturers have tried all sorts of things to make vinyl siding mimic wood. Countless different profile sizes, wood grained embossing, and even multi-colored extruded siding have all fallen short of the mark in my opinion.

Perhaps the biggest problem vinyl siding manufacturers have faced has been the lack of rigidity of the product. If you touch typical vinyl siding on a home, it simply is not solid. What's more, the exterior walls on most wood frame houses are not perfectly flat. Thin vinyl siding and even thicker fiber cement and some wood sidings have a tendency to follow each and every bump and dip. Add to this problem, the fact that most of the vinyl siding products that resemble wood siding have a curl in each lap. This unsightly curl is a dead giveaway that the siding is not wood.

All of these problems and more have been solved by a revolutionary no maintenance vinyl siding that has just hit the marketplace. This product has a solid foam core that allows the siding to lay incredibly flat on a humpy exterior wall. The siding has an R-value of 4.0. Traditional vinyl siding, most wood sidings, and fiber cement sidings typically have an R-value of less than 1.0. R-value is a measurement of resistance to heat loss or heat gain. The higher the value the more energy you save. This new siding is so energy efficient that it carries the prestigious Energy Star label. You will search long and hard for other siding products that bear this label.

The foam core that is laminated to the back of the siding interlocks as it is installed. This creates a solid foam barrier around all of the exterior walls of your home. This is important because the wall studs and the top and bottom wall plates used to construct the exterior walls create breaks in the wall insulation systems. The foam core also slows air infiltration. Outside noise travels through air gaps in the side walls of your home. This new siding is an excellent sound deadening material.

Traditional vinyl siding has typically been vulnerable to impact damage from hail, baseballs, golf balls, etc. The foam core in this new siding increases impact resistance by 300 percent. This feature is very important as your home ages with time. It is not easy to find replacement siding that matches perfectly 10 - 15 years after it has been installed. If you use this new foam core siding, you should not have to worry about this maintenance issue.

Be sure to ask about the trim pieces that are needed to install the siding. This new vinyl siding comes with foam filled outside corners that resemble the trim on my Queen Anne Victorian home. They are very attractive. Wide profile foam filled window and door trim is also available. The curb appeal of a home covered with this new siding is unparalleled. Trust me, any vinyl siding manufacturer that wants to be a player will be forced to make solid core siding. If they don't, they will have to employ the absolute best sales people on the planet.

Installing vinyl siding on your house? Find the best professionals by using my Vinyl Siding Checklist. I offer a 100% Money Back Guarantee.

Author's Notes:
December, 2004

My prediction came true. When I wrote this column, I was certain that other vinyl siding manufacturers would follow the lead of the first company that introduced solid foam-core vinyl siding. As of today, it is a commodity item. Virtually every vinyl siding company offers foam-backed siding or a foam filler option. Which one is the best? Well, price is always a good barometer of quality. Start there first. If you run into trouble, email me.

Rag Painting

Posted on July 30, 2003 by Tim Carter

The rag painting process creates a look similar to that of rich leather on wall surfaces. Up close the wall looks like a child tried to paint it.

DEAR TIM: I saw a segment on television that showed how one could create a unique look on interior walls using colored glaze and rags. Is this method really as attractive as it looks? Is there an easy way to do the job? Rolling a rag down a wall looks like hard work to me. Are there any trade secrets you are willing to share about the process? Amy G., Lexington, KY

DEAR AMY: The rag faux painting look on walls is absolutely spectacular. I can assure you that it will take the breath away from all of your friends and neighbors who come by to see the completed job. They will beg you for the name of the painter that did it. You will be astounded at how simple it is to create this look.

The rag painting process creates a look similar to that of rich leather on wall surfaces. Up close the wall looks like a child tried to paint it. The overall wall color looks mottled and uneven. But when you stand back eight or ten feet, the surface looks rich and tantalizing. The effect is achieved when translucent glaze is applied over regular wall paint. Glazes can be applied clear for different effects but look best when they are tinted with color.

The key is to pick the correct background color and a complimentary glaze color. Certain paint stores have color combinations that have already been selected by decorating professionals. You can do your own custom colors if you like so that you can match furniture or curtain fabrics. That is what I recently did in my own basement. My glaze color matches a certain highlight color in my couch fabric.

Before you rag roll, you must paint the walls a base color. This is typically a light color that is in the same color family as the glaze. For example, the base color of my walls is an extremely light green color. It is basically an off-white. The glaze I used is a medium green that looks very close to the color of a lime rind. The base color is almost always a flat paint and must dry at least 24 hours before applying the glaze.

Using rags to create the effect is a tough job in my opinion. I found a unique rag roller cover that fits onto a standard paint roller frame. This rag roller has a twisted fabric that fits over a plastic tube that slides onto the roller frame. The roller is dipped into the glaze just as you would dip a standard roller cover into paint. The twisted fabric creates random high and low spots on the roller. As you roll the glaze onto the wall it applies the glaze unevenly. This is precisely the effect you want. The trick is to roll the rag roller around to spread the glaze so that it is a very thin film. Do not roll as you would ordinary paint. The more random and wild the roller strokes the better.

The glaze is a little tricky to work with. It can flash dry in as little as 90 to 120 seconds. If this happens you will have ugly overlap areas where you overlap the glaze as you proceed sideways or up and down a wall. The trick is to keep a wet edge on the glaze so this does not happen. Use a special glaze extender product that you mix with the glaze to slow down the drying time. The extenders look like a milky liquid but will not alter the color of the glaze. They will usually give you an extra 10 minutes of working time but certainly no more. You must move quickly and do an entire wall at once.

The glaze must not be allowed to get on wall surfaces that have yet to be rolled or have previously been rolled. Wet glaze applied over dried glaze looks horrible since it appears so much darker than a single coat. Inside wall corners need to be taped with special masking tape that has low tack adhesive that will not damage the fresh wall paint. The tape prevents glaze from getting onto the wall that has yet to be done. A paint brush dipped in glaze that is dabbed into the corners will help finish wall surfaces that the rag roller can not easily cover.

One of the benefits of the rag roll glaze technique is the washability of the wall surface. The glaze dries with a slightly glossy appearance. If you get dirt or spills on the wall, they are quite easy to clean off. If the wall gets scratched or dented you can repair it if you work carefully. The trick is to touch up the scratch or gouge only. Do not let any base coat paint or glaze get on the undamaged wall surfaces.

Column 384

Window Glass Replacement

Posted on July 30, 2003 by Tim Carter

This is double pane glass, but the sash is designed to hide the spacer strip between the two pieces of glass.

Window Glass Replacement

DEAR TIM: I have several cracked panes of glass in the drafty windows of my 70 year old home. I was thinking of changing out the single pane glass to insulated glass.

Is this even possible? Is it cost effective and will it solve my draft problems? What would be the best way to preserve the look and maximize my energy savings? Todd S., Ogunquit, ME

DEAR TODD: The time to act is now since Old Man Winter is lurking right around the corner.

Windows = Weakest Link!

Windows in the average home are by and large the weakest link in the energy chain. They typically have the lowest resistance to the transfer of heat and cold. Furthermore the weatherstripping, or lack thereof, can allow vast amounts of heating and cooling dollars to leak out into the atmosphere.

Free & Fast BIDS

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local glass companies who can repair cracked and missing glass.

The idea of switching out your old single pane glass with newer double pane insulated glass is very good in theory. But in reality it can be almost impossible to do. Window sashes are built with a ledge or mortise that accepts the pane of glass. This part of your existing window was made to fit a pane of glass that is only 1/8 inch thick or so. If you put insulated glass that is typically about one half inch thick in this grooved space, there will be little or no space left to add your glazing compound.

You might consider making your existing mortise deeper to accommodate the insulated glass panel. This is not only very difficult to do without specialized tools, it will very likely ruin the interior profile of the window sash where the wood touches the glass. You will indeed remove some of this molded profile as you cut away wood.

The cost issue is also a factor. Clear insulated glass often costs about $10.00 per square foot. If you want higher performance glass that has the Low-E glass on it, expect to pay $14.00 or more per square foot. The Low-E glass is a very good choice because it helps save you money. This glass is covered with an ultra-thin coating of metal that allows the glass to repel radiated heat back to its source. This means heat stays inside your home in the winter but stays outside in the summer.

The average window in your home may have approximately 10 square feet of glass. You could easily spend $140.00 or more just for the glass. This will solve your glass problems but you haven't even begun to deal with the draft deficiency. Adding attractive permanent weatherstripping can be a huge challenge.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local glass companies who can repair cracked and missing glass.

I think you are a perfect candidate for the wood window replacement kits. These items allow you to get all of the benefits of a new window with less work than installing completely new windows or retrofitting your existing windows. The interior and exterior trim of your existing windows remains intact and a typical window can be completely redone in about 1.5 hours.

The window replacement kits solve the draft problems instantly. The modern form fitted jamb liners you see on new windows are included with the kits. These are cut to fit perfectly into the side jambs of your existing window frames. Not only do these jamb liners stop air infiltration into your home they also stop noise. I have installed hundreds of these kits. All of the homeowners have told me that exterior road noise has been significantly reduced.

Certain window companies that make these kits offer all sorts of fine options. If you have very old windows that have decorative horns you can often get these replicated. Certain companies offer discreet retractable screens that roll up out of the way. This is a very nice feature that simplifies insect screen storage. Decorative glass is often an option.

If you decide to tackle this project yourself, be sure to buy just one or two window kits. Do a smaller window on the side or back of your home. If you get the hang of the job and feel confident about doing the larger windows, then place the order for the additional windows. If you find that the job is simply too hard, ask the window supplier for a labor and material quote.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local glass companies who can repair cracked and missing glass.

Column 385

Home Alone – Winterizing Your Home

Posted on July 30, 2003 by Tim Carter

Here is my main water shutoff valve. It is the lowest valve in the photo. Above it is a tee fitting with a boiler drain. I can attach a garden hose to this valve and all of the water in my house supply lines can be emptied into a nearby floor drain.

DEAR TIM: I own two homes and live about six months per year in each one. One house is up north where the winter winds howl and the other house is in the sunny south. What is the best way to close up these houses when I leave? With the rising utility costs is it possible to completely shut off all heat in my northern home? Can I close up my southern home and turn the air conditioning off? Dyke S., Peoria, IL

DEAR DYKE: Any number of people own two or more homes and do exactly what you do. Many more people like me don't own two houses but may leave their own home for an extended amount of time. Leaving a home alone can become an expensive proposition if things go wrong in your absence. And more often than not, things do go wrong. You can turn off your furnace and air conditioner to save money but certain things need to be done to protect your home and the interior furnishings. Your home down south requires the least amount of attention.

Water, both in the liquid and vapor state, is your biggest enemy. The water in regular household plumbing supply lines is under significant pressure. If a pipe or washing machine supply hose bursts, thousands of gallons of water can begin to flood the home. Imagine the nightmare if you happen to live in a condominium and the water lines above your unit burst? It has happened and the damage loss is unbelievable. You must turn off your main water shutoff valve whenever you leave either home.

The water that is in your northern home's water lines needs to be drained. Water that freezes in supply lines or traps in drainage lines can cause them to crack. Go to the lowest fixture in the house that has hot and cold water. Open those valves. Go to every plumbing fixture in the home and open all valves and flush all toilets. This will allow gravity to pull the water down through the system. Closed valves create vacuums that prevent water from draining.

Open all outdoor hose bibs as well. Lift up any flexible spray hoses in sinks and showers and allow the trapped water in these hoses to drain. Keep all valves at all fixtures partially open. Drain the hot water tank and water softener. Pour non-toxic antifreeze into all toilet bowls, sinks, tubs, showers, washing machine drains, and floor drains. This antifreeze can often be purchased at recreational vehicle or marine supply houses. A plumber should be called in to shut off the water outside you home. It is entirely possible for the plumbing line on the street side of your main shut off to freeze and burst if it gets cold enough inside the home during your absence. The water does not need to be drained from anything in your southern home.

If your northern home is a modern one that is fairly air tight, the water vapor in the air inside your home may cause all sorts of problems. Once you leave the temperature of interior surfaces begins to drop and the water vapor in the air can and will condense on many surfaces. Because millions of mold and mildew spores are on all of the surfaces and furniture, the condensed water provides them with the necessary water they need to begin to grow.

Open windows slightly to allow air to readily circulate through your home. Have a trusted friend or neighbor enter the house to check for signs of condensation. Within several weeks the indoor and outdoor humidity should have equalized. At that point the windows can be closed and locked for the remainder of the winter.

It is a wise idea to turn off all non-essential electrical circuit breakers. Only leave on those circuits that control security lighting. Electrical fires can and do happen even though an appliance or fixture is in the off position. Empty all perishable food from your refrigerator. Turn off your natural gas or propane supply valve outside your home if at all possible. Contact your local utility company or fuel supplier for help with this job.

Notify your local police and fire department before you leave. There is a very good chance they will provide you with a list of helpful tips that will prevent your home from becoming a statistic in your absence. Be sure they know how to get in touch with you. Consider storing valuable or sentimental items in a separate secure storage facility or take them with you.

Column 386

Drywall Problems – Blisters and Falling Tape

Posted on July 27, 2003 by Tim Carter

Drywall Blisters - Common Mistake / Easy To Avoid

Drywall blisters are bubbles that form under paper drywall tape. The form because too much joint compound was scraped from under the tape. The joint compound contains glue that holds the paper tape to the drywall surface.

DEAR TIM: My bullheaded husband has been trying to finish some drywall. The taped seams constantly blister when he applies the second coat of compound.

Some of the tape delaminates a day or two later. He says the pre-mixed joint compound is defective. What's the secret?

Just how does one get perfect blister free taped drywall joints? We are running out of time. Thanks. Karla D., Norridge, IL

Drywall Blisters Mean Defective Finisher, Not Joint Compound

The odds that the pre-mixed joint compound in the bucket is defective are very low. If the product was fresh when purchased and has not been frozen, it should be fine.

You can test to see if it is good by simply spreading a 1/8 inch patch of it on some dust free drywall. Let it dry. If it is difficult to remove with a scraping tool, the product is fine.

Leave Mud Under Tape

The most common reason for drywall tape blisters is a lack of joint compound between the tape and the drywall surface. All too often I see rookie weekend warriors make the mistake of removing too much joint compound from underneath the tape.

Some people press the taping knife so hard they snap it in two! The blisters form on the second coat when the tape absorbs moisture from the second application of joint compound.

The paper tape swells and there simply is not adhesive present to hold the paper tape flat. Keep in mind that the pre-mixed joint compounds are simply advanced water-based adhesives mixed with finely ground solids that give them body and mass.

Ideally, one should place one-sixteenth of an inch of joint compound between the tape and the drywall to prevent blister and tape delamination. The tapered edge of drywall is made to accommodate this.

The recessed area created when two pieces abut one another is about one-eighth inch deep. The paper tape should be right in the middle of this area with equal amounts of joint compound above and below it.

You can also switch to a different open mesh tape that actually sticks directly to the drywall. Apply it first and then cover it with joint compound.

The trick to achieving pro results with traditional paper tape is not magic but it does take a considerable amount of hand-eye coordination, joint compound mixed to the right consistency, and the right tools.

Professional drywall finishers add just a small amount of water to pre-mixed joint compound and then stir it by hand or with a paddle attached to a drill.

Watch this video of me showing you how to get the right consistency when you use joint compound:

The compound, once mixed, resembles smooth warm cake icing that will actually slowly flow out of a bowl or pan. Often the joint compound from the factory is moist but far too stiff.

Avoid Drywall Blisters With Correct Knife

My tool of choice is a five inch wide flexible taping knife. I use it to apply a generous amount, up to a one-quarter inch thick, of joint compound to the drywall seam surface.

This is a great knife to tape drywall. Be sure to round off the corners with a metal file to avoid tearing inside corner tape. CLICK THE IMAGE NOW to have this knife delivered to your home.

Step-By-Step Taping Tips

It's important to make several light passes over the compound to smooth it out and remove some of the excess material. It is now time to place the tape.

Be sure it is centered in the seam. I angle the knife blade much like a snow plow and lightly press as I glide the knife over the seam. With each pass, a little more compound oozes out from beneath the tape. I stop when I am confident that the tape is at the desired depth in the recessed seam area.

Use Fan To Speed Drying Time

To speed drying time you can place a regular oscillating fan in the room. This will help speed up the drying time. It is also possible to use a rapid set joint compound.

These products are sold in the dry form and are mixed on site with water. They come in different set times and some set hard in as little as 30 minutes. Using these materials you can tape, second coat and final coat drywall in less than 90 minutes.

Mix Small Amounts of Rapid-Set Joint Compound

If you decide to use these rapid set materials to make up for lost time, you must be careful not to mix up too much at one time.

I made that mistake once and a half bucket of compound turned rock hard in the bucket while I was up on a ladder. Using cold water can retard the set time slightly. If the compound does start to set up before it is used, do not add more water. Simply discard it and make a new batch.

Column 387

Shoe Storage

Posted on July 27, 2003 by Tim Carter

Shoe Storage - Closet Cubby
DEAR TIM: The bottom of my closets are a mess. Shoes, boots and who knows what live down there. I'll bet you provided shoe-storage solutions in the houses you built. How can I solve my messy problem and maximize the floor and wall space under the hanging clothes in my closet? I have seen closet organizers in stores but would prefer a custom solution. Hollis B., Dublin, OH

DEAR HOLLIS: I think many people have the same clutter problem that you are dealing with. In fact, I just solved a similar problem in my own mud-room closet. Using scrap plywood and several hours of time, I made a cool shoe storage bin. I have built many closet organizers over the years for customers and finally did one for my wife. As you might imagine she is happy to see the closet floor once again.

I decided long ago that closet storage problems could be solved using the same methodology that can be found in old fashioned roll top desks. The pigeon hole system found in these pieces of furniture maximize the vertical air space that rises above the back surface of the desktop. Expand the size of the pigeon holes for a closet space and you can store just about every hard or soft clothing item that you own. The trick is to make the organizational slots the right size. The goal is to fill the space between the floor and the clothes with as many slots as possible but make them large enough so they can be accessed without banging your knuckles.

Over the years, I have found that a perfect closet cubby hole for shoes is one that is nine inches wide, six inches high and eleven and one half inches deep. These work for all standard shoes and slippers. Work boots, roller blades and other large footwear need a space that is at least ten inches wide and up to twelve inches high. The eleven and one half inch depth works for these but sometimes part of the larger item may project past the front of the organizer.

These closet cubby organizers should not be too tall. In fact, I always try to have the top of my organizer stop about eight inches below the bottom of the hanging clothes. The top of the cubby organizer acts as a shelf for boxes, helmets, or other miscellaneous items. It also saves on material and assembly time.

You need to think ahead when you build these systems. Because a typical closet has a door opening smaller than the inside width of the actual closet, you can't make one large unit and place it in a typical closet. The organizer needs to be two or more pieces that are mated together once inside the closet. The parts can be equal in size or one can be wider than the other. You simply need to make sure you can get each piece inside the closet.

I prefer to use scrap 3/4 inch plywood for these closet cubby systems. You can purchase fir or yellow pine plywood that has one or more good veneer faces. But even if one side is not so good, you will rarely see the imperfections once the cubby holes are filled with shoes, gloves, hats, etc. I use a thin piece of screen stop molding that is 3/4 inch wide by 1/4 inch thick to hide the coarse plywood edge of each divider. These need to be glued and nailed to the plywood edges.

You can use thinner material to make the closet organizer but it requires lots of skill to fasten the pieces together. If you nail into the side of a divider to secure a horizontal shelf piece, your nail may miss the narrow width target. If you own or rent a router, you can use a standard straight bit to create a handy mortise channel for each shelf to fit into the vertical dividers. This is how I assembled my closet cubby organizer.

The beauty of this system is that you can make different modules and stack them next to one another. If you have lots of smaller items to store perhaps one size slot will work for all items. Keep in mind that you must keep the space in front of the organizer free of items for this system to work. The purpose of the closet cubby is to allow you to see what you have and to allow quick and easy access to the items. If you start stacking things in front of the organizer, you will be no better off than you are now.

Column 388

Entertainment Centers

Posted on July 27, 2003 by Tim Carter

This photo doesn't do my center justice. The camera makes the center look like hobbit furniture. The center is nearly 15 feet wide! That is a cool custom coffee table with two working model trains under the glass top.

DEAR TIM: My television, VCR, stereo receiver and DVD player are a jumbled mess. Add to this my collection of tapes and you can see I need some organizational help. Is it possible to arrange all of these things in a set of beautiful cabinetry without going to the poorhouse? Where does one start? What should I include in this entertainment center? Eric M., Boston, MA

DEAR ERIC: Talk about being at the right place at the right time. I have seen the design emphasis shift to different parts of a home on a fairly regular basis. Recently the home office was in the cross hairs of the design professionals . Before that it was the master bedroom bathroom suite. Years ago it was the family room. One of the current hot spots of interior home design happens to be an entertainment room for those that afford this luxury. For those of us that can't, a wonderful affordable alternative has come of age- the entertainment center.

Many of the cabinet companies that have made kitchen and bathroom cabinets for years saw this trend emerging. These companies decided to expand their cabinet line to offer a multitude of specialty cabinets that you can mix and match to create a highly functional entertainment center that will house all of your electronic gear. The look of these centers is stunning. Just last month I installed a set of factory made cabinets that appear as if they were custom made for my basement space.

In a matter of speaking, my cabinets were custom made. My wife and I selected the style, the wood species- we used real cherry wood- and the stain color. A professional designer who worked for the cabinet retailer developed a plan for us after we supplied her with the width and height of our opening. Because our available space was nearly 14 feet wide, the designer was able to include a huge TV cabinet, tall storage cabinets, drawer bases and bookshelves. If your available space is just eight to ten feet wide, you can create a deluxe center.

Your entertainment center TV cabinet must have fold away pocket doors. These doors open and fold back along the inside of the cabinet. Lesser quality cabinets have traditional doors that open and swing back in front of the other cabinetry next to the TV cabinet. If your VCR, DVD player and cable TV box are in cabinets next to the actual TV, these solid wood doors will block the hand held remote control signals. Glass doors are a must if you decide to place your remote controlled equipment in these areas. Keep in mind that electronic equipment produces heat. This heat can damage the sensitive circuit boards and micro-chips within the equipment. Be sure that air can flow naturally up and over the equipment to cool it off.

A close-up view of the left side of my center that was made by putting together standard factory cabinets and trim!

Look for cabinets that are available in different heights and depths. The primary cabinet is almost always the TV cabinet. It can be as tall as 84 inches and as deep as 29 inches. The cabinets next to the massive TV cabinet are slightly shorter- 789 inches- and only 22 inches deep. This multi-layered design creates depth and makes for a highly interesting appearance. To achieve a total custom look, try to include filler strips that have fluted overlay strips of wood or accent blocks where you can attach decorative rosettes. Roping and other thin decorative overlay wood molding pieces also add character. If at all possible try to include open shelving to display books and other decorative items. Don't forget to include decorative crown molding that will really create that custom look.

There are booby traps you need to avoid. Check and double check again your measurements. The best advice is to have the cabinet designer or a professional installer come to your home to take the measurements. Don't try to fit too many different cabinets in a smaller space. Be careful about designing a cabinet(s) for a particular piece of electronic hardware. Technology changes so rapidly that a newer or replacement model simply may not fit well into the space you created.

I encourage you work with a professional designer. Many cabinet showrooms employ such people. They are trained to take advantage of every option should your situation allow for it. You can help them by providing them with photographs or with pages torn from a magazine that show different entertainment center concepts that appeal to you. To insure that the designer is up to your task, ask for photographs or plans of entertainment centers he/she has designed.

Column 389

Removing Grout

Posted on July 27, 2003 by Tim Carter

These four items will help you. The piece of wood with a fairly crisply cut ends will scrape big pieces of grout. The green scouring pad is great on grout film. The gloves and sponge will help as well.

DEAR TIM: Help! As I watched my ceramic tile floor being grouted it looked fantastic. But after the installer left and the floor dried, there was excess grout on many tiles and a haze over all of the tiles. Is the floor ruined? What can I do to make the floor look perfect? What went wrong? Is there a way to avoid this mess? Theresa B., Avon, OH

DEAR THERESA: More often than not the new tile floor can be made to look like new. But there is a chance that the floor may be ruined. Let's hope and pray the installer did not use an epoxy grout. If he did, the floor might be toast as these grouts aren't called epoxy for nothing! Epoxy grouts are fairly easy to identify before they become a problem. The installer has to mix two separate components to activate the aggressive epoxy adhesive. I would think you might have seen this happen.

The most common grout used for ceramic tile is Portland cement based. There are different types and it is not uncommon to see a fortified grout that contains an additional acrylic water activated adhesive. Liquid additives are also available that enhance standard cement grout. These additives increase the bond and wearability of the grout. They also make it a little tougher, but not impossible, to remove excess grout and the haze that are disfiguring your new floor.

The first thing to do is to respond quickly. As the clock continues to tick, the grout and additives gain strength and get harder and harder to remove. Do not attempt to remove any of the grout or film with a metal scrapper or steel wool. You can permanently scar and damage the tile surface with these tools. I prefer to use solid oak sticks that have crisp squared off edges, nylon or synthetic fiber scouring pads found at almost all grocery or ceramic tile stores, tile grout sponges and vast quantities of fresh clean water to remove the excess grout from the tile.

Use the oak sticks to scrape off excess grout from the tile surface and to remove high grout spots within a grout joint. Vacuum the loose grout as you go. If you leave this grit on the tile surface while you scrub during the next step, you run the risk of scratching the tile surface. If the crisp edges of the oak sticks become dull, simply trim the end of the stick to produce a new edge. Wearing gloves will prevent blisters and minimize the risk of getting splinters from the oak sticks.

Once the excess grout is cleaned from the surface it is time to remove the grout haze. This is accomplished by scrubbing the surface of the tile with the synthetic scouring pads. Apply a generous amount of water to the tile surface and begin to scrub. To test the effectiveness of the pad, work on just two or three tiles. The clean water should rapidly turn to the color of the grout as you scrub with the pad. Use the tile grout sponge to remove the colored water from the surface of the tile. Rinse the tile surface with clear water. Use old rags or a few paper towels to immediately dry the tiles. You should see improvement if not perfection. If so, continue cleaning the rest of the floor. There is a very good chance you will need numerous scouring pads to complete the job.

Restore the "clean" to your grout. Just go to STAIN-SOLVER to see the beautiful, quick results.

This mess could have been prevented. A professional tile setter would never have left the job in this state in the first place. Furthermore, he would have identified the type of tile he was working with before he started to grout. Some tiles are not glazed and/or have very porous surfaces. These tiles need to be sealed first or you can choose to apply a grout release agent over the tile before you grout. These grout release agents prevent stains caused by the grouting process and are a very good idea when the grout color is different from the color of the tile.

Tiles or slate that have a rough or textured surface require special precautions. It can be a nightmare to remove grout and haze after the fact. These products must be grouted with the greatest care to prevent problems. In these instances you should grout slowly and cautiously making sure that all excess grout is removed from the face of the tile or slate.

I know this is going to sound crazy, but try it. Take one gallon of warm water and dissolve a cup of sugar into it. Take this sweet solution and pour it onto excess grout on a floor. If you have wall tile with too much grout, then soak paper towels in the solution and place them on the tile.

Keep the tile wet with the sugar water for at least two hours. After this dwell time is complete, use a nylon scrub pad and scrub a small area. You should see instant results. It may take more than one application of sugar water to completely remove the grout film.

Column 390

Read Author's Notes at the End of This Column

Vinyl Siding - Solid Core

Window Glass Replacement

Drywall Blisters - Common Mistake / Easy To Avoid

Drywall Blisters Mean Defective Finisher, Not Joint Compound

Avoid Drywall Blisters With Correct Knife

Step-By-Step Taping Tips

Use Fan To Speed Drying Time

Mix Small Amounts of Rapid-Set Joint Compound

Expert Advice For Your Home