Building a New Home – Get Organized

Posted on by Tim Carter
notebook manufacture directions new home construction

This is a nifty tool that works alongside your blueprints and any written specifications.

Get Organized

DEAR TIM: My husband and I are getting ready to build a new home. I am astonished at all of the details that need to be addressed. Each time we have a meeting with our builder all sorts of decisions need to be made. I am afraid that lots of information is going to fall through the cracks before the final walk through. What is a good way to keep track of all of this information? Julie J., Stillwater, MN

DEAR JULIE: Many people decide not to build a new home for this very reason! They are overwhelmed with the decision and product selection process and simply don't know where to start. Many people are afraid of making the wrong decision. The key is to approach the task in an orderly manner and start making product selections and decisions long before ground is broken.

The building and remodeling playing field is actually a minefield. Making decisions out of order or selecting a product without checking for conflicts with other products can trigger an explosion of extra costs and delays. Once upon a time a client of mine picked two elegant wall light fixtures that hung on each side of a bathroom medicine cabinet. Once they were installed I quickly discovered they prevented the medicine cabinet from opening. Because the homeowner had fallen in love with the fixtures, the problem was solved by relocating the electrical boxes. It was a costly mistake that I paid for.

You can avoid nightmares like mine with a simple job organizational binder. This is a nifty tool that works alongside your blueprints and any written specifications. I have found that the binder works best when it contains a section for each room of the house as well as a separate section for the exterior. Typical things you would find in each section would be photographs or illustrations of fixtures, installation instructions for appliances, fixtures or products, technical information showing supply pipe sizes, wire sizes, and the proper rough-in locations of these utilities.

Each section of the binder should also have a room finish schedule. This is a table that communicates to the builder and his subcontractors exactly what you want on every wall, floor ceiling, trim, door surface in each room. If the data in these schedules is accurate it is entirely possibly for the workers to finish the job with little or no verbal communication.

You will need more than one binder for the job. At the very minimum you need three: one for you, one for the builder and one that is safely stowed in a lock-box at the job site. The subcontractors need the job site binder to refer to as they work each day. Use clear plastic pocket protectors to keep the individual pieces of paper safe from wet job site conditions.

Creating a complete organizational binder means that you need to make product selections before construction begins. This may seem unusual but you might as well resign yourself to it. There are numerous advantages. Pressure decisions are eliminated. Because it is early in the process, you have time to get items that might have to be special ordered. Waiting until the last minute to make selections often eliminates certain items because the job may have to grind to a halt for weeks or months.

Carpenters, plumbers and electricians need to know what they are installing three or four months from now so they get openings, pipes and wires in the correct spots. Every time I have tried to use ESP because I was trying to guess what a customer would want, I guessed wrong. Providing your builder with the correct information simply takes the guesswork out of the process.

If you really want your job to run smoothly you and your builder need to look at all of your selections and insure that there are no conflicts. Imagine your dismay when you discover that the electrical outlet for your night stand is behind your bed. Similar frustration happens when a central vacuum outlet becomes hidden behind a door that is always open. Pesky mistakes like this can be avoided with a little thought and attention to detail.

How would you like me to build your new home? It's probably impossible for me to fit your job into my schedule, but I will gladly share hundreds of my tricks and building secrets with you and your builder. Check out my New House Specifications.

Column 376

Cleaning Wood Siding – Be Gentle – Pressure Causes DAMAGE

Posted on by Tim Carter
natural wood siding

Cleaning Wood Siding This wood siding can be cleaned with certified organic STAIN SOLVER. It's oxygen bleach. Cleaning outdoor wood is not hard to do at all.

Cleaning Wood Siding - Beware Pressure Washers!

DEAR TIM: We live in a shady wooded area. Our house is covered with natural cedar wood siding that constantly develops mildew stains. Every few years we apply an additional coat of oil-based semi-transparent stain to make the house look fresh. What products are best to use to clean the siding and to seal it? How long will a good water repellent last? Do you have cleaning wood siding tips for me? Susan P., Highland Park, IL

DEAR SUSAN: It's no wonder you have mildew problems on the siding. I want to warn you now to never use a pressure washer to clean your siding before you next seal it. Watch this video to see the damage pressure washers cause.

What Causes Mildew on Wood Siding?

Mildew on wood siding is caused by mold spores that float onto the siding. They eat dust and wood sealers and water activates the mold spores creating the mildew

Millions of mold spores are in the air surrounding your house. They land on the siding and once there are delighted to find out that you have provided them with dinner.

Do Oil-Based Stains Contain Natural Oils?

Many oil-based house stains contain natural oils and resins like:

  • linseed oil
  • vegetable oil
  • tung oils
  • animal fat

Are Natural Oils Food For Mildew and Mold?

Yes, the natural oils found in many wood sealers and water repellents are food for mildew and mold.

These water repellents happen to be food that mildew thrives on. The shady conditions slow natural evaporation and help to raise the overall humidity around the siding. These conditions are excellent for mildew growth.

Do the Manufacturers Know the Oils Feed Mildew?

Yes, the manufacturers of many exterior stains know this. They add chemical mildewcides and fungicides to the stains. But ultraviolet (UV) rays from sunlight and rainwater break these chemicals down. Some stains contain very little of these products and within a short amount of time, the mildew can start to grow.

What is the Best Wood Sealer?

In my opinion, the best semi-transparent stain to use is one that contains no natural oils. I prefer to use products that are made with synthetic resins.

cabot australian timber oil

This is the best penetrating wood sealer I know of as of 2021. CLICK on THE IMAGE to have it delivered to your home.

Does Mildew Eat Synthetic Resin?

Mildew will not eat synthetic resin. It's still possible to get a small amount of mildew growth on the siding but the food source usually can be traced to airborne dust or aerosol saps and sugars that rain down from your trees during the active growing season.

How Do You Deep Clean Wood?

You deep clean wood using certified organic STAIN SOLVER. It's an oxygen bleach made in the USA. It will not damage the wood and it's not harmful to vegetation. You use the exact same product for mold removal on vinyl siding.

Stain Solver black background yellow scoop

Stain Solver is MADE in the USA with USA ingredients that are food-grade quality.

Before you apply any water repellent to the siding, you must deep clean it to get the best results. Avoid cleaners that contain chlorine bleach. You can readily identify this by looking at the product label. The chemical name for chlorine bleach is sodium hypochlorite. This chemical can readily bleach the gorgeous natural color from your siding. It is also highly toxic to vegetation and your valuable trees. A neighbor of mine slowly killed one of her trees by using chlorine bleach to clean a patio each spring.

What is a Safe Wood Cleaner?

A safe deep cleaner for wood siding is oxygen bleach. It is a powder that mixes with water. It is non-toxic to vegetation and trees and will not remove any natural color from the siding. You simply keep the wood siding wet with the oxygen bleach solution for 15 minutes. It will remove the mildew and deep clean the siding. Lightly scrub the siding before rinsing with clear water from a garden hose. Avoid the temptation of using a pressure washer. These devices can force water into cracks and seams. This water gets behind the siding and can travel into your home. The intense pressure from these tools can quickly erode and scar soft woods like cedar and redwood.

How Long Can a Wood Sealer Last on Siding?

A top quality wood sealer and water repellent can last up to five to seven years before it needs an additional coat. These same products can be used on wood decks but will not last as long. The orientation of the siding on your home helps extend the life of the water repellent.

Why Do Wood Sealers Last Longer on Vertical Surfaces?

Wood sealers last longer on vertical surfaces because water runs off and the harsh mid-day ultraviolet rays of the sun give the wood a glancing blow, not a direct hit as they do with horizontal wood on decks.

Rainwater runs off the siding. When the sunlight does hit your house the intense mid-day UV rays glance off the siding. Because deck lumber lies flat, water readily soaks into the lumber and the UV rays at high noon blast the wood with a direct hit.

Is Price a Good Barometer When Buying Wood Sealer?

Price is a good barometer for judging water repellent quality. The synthetic resins contain very expensive raw materials. When you are doing comparative shopping, look for the highest priced product. It very likely is made with synthetic resins.

Where Do You Find the Best Wood Sealers?

I'd shop specialty paint stores or buy wood sealers online.

I have had the best success finding these water repellents at specialty paint stores and some log cabin distributors. Oxygen bleach is readily available on the Internet at www.stainsolver.com. Be sure to buy oxygen bleach that has the highest concentration of the active ingredient - oxygen bleach.

BEWARE OF LOW-COST Oxygen Bleach: Many of the well-known oxygen bleach products contain a significant amount of fillers that simply take up space in the container. Furthermore, many of the heavily advertised oxygen bleaches are made in the Far East, not in the USA!

Message from Tim:

Years ago while researching a column about cleaning decks, I discovered the wonders of Oxygen Bleach. It is perhaps the 'greenest' cleaner I know of as it uses oxygen ions to break apart stains, dirt and odor molecules. There are no harsh chemicals, and it works on just about anything that is water washable.

I decided to create my own special blend using ingredients made in the USA. In fact, the raw materials in the active ingredient are food-grade quality registered with the FDA. I call my product Stain Solver. I urge you to use it to help with your wood siding cleaning. You will be amazed at the results!

I'm proud of my product and have no trouble promoting it in my columns because I know it works. I know it's the BEST oxygen bleach you can buy. Not many entrepreneurs can say that about their product.

If you're a customer of mine and have used Stain Solver, please feel free to leave a comment below and tell the world what you think of Stain Solver. I thank you in advance.

Column 378

Cast Iron Drain Lines are Easy and Quiet

Posted on by Tim Carter
Cast iron pipe & fittings

Cast iron drain lines, pipes and fittings are joined together with rubber seals and stainless steel band clamps. These can be assembled just as easily as gluing PVC pipe. This column was SO GOOD that I shared with the 31,000 subscribers who read my January 12, 2019 AsktheBuilder Newsletter.

Cast Iron Drain Lines

DEAR TIM: We are building a new home soon. The house will have a second story and a finished basement. Every time you flush a toilet in my existing home it sounds like a waterfall in the wall. The builder has said that he will insulate the plastic drain piping to prevent noise problems. Will this really work? Is there an alternative material that can be used? I want a noise-free plumbing system. Iris S., Winchester, VA

DEAR IRIS: Thousands of people suffer as you do because of noisy plastic drain piping. Plastic is an attractive building material for many reasons. It is relatively inexpensive, it is easy to assemble, and it will not corrode over time. But it's not a very dense material. As water crashes around inside the piping as it flows towards the sewer or septic system, it creates the annoying and sometimes embarrassing noise you speak of. Insulating plastic pipes will help control noise but only if the job is very well done.

There is a time tested alternative drain pipe you can use. It is cast iron. New cast iron drain piping is very dense and transmits little, if any, noise as water travels through it. Don't confuse new cast iron to the old cast iron pipe you might see in a 100-year-old structure. There is a huge difference in modern cast iron.

Older cast iron was sand cast. This manufacturing method was a little less than perfect. The side wall thickness of the pipe could vary and it was possible for pin holes leaks and rust pimples to develop over time as a result of this deficiency. Modern cast iron piping is spun cast. This method creates a sidewall thickness that is very consistent and is virtually defect free.

The individual pieces of pipe and the cast iron fittings are not joined with molten lead and oakum, oil soaked hemp, as in the old days. Stainless steel clamps wrap around rubber gaskets that fit at the end of each pipe or fitting. Once the stainless steel clamps are tightened with a small ratchet, the joint is leak free. If you need to adjust a fitting to achieve a perfect fit, you simply loosen the clamp. You don't have this luxury with plastic piping. Once the primer and glue is applied and you slide a pipe into a fitting, you only have a few seconds to get the joint orientation right. If you goof up, you have to cut out the crooked joint and start over.

The cast iron drain pipe does not have to be used in the entire plumbing system. Plastic pipe is a great choice for the vent system. Plumbing drainage pipes contain air before water drains down the pipes. As water enters the pipe it displaces the air. The air needs to be replaced. This is accomplished by a network of pipes that extend from the drain pipes up to the atmosphere at roof top level. Since the in-rushing air doesn't create vibrations, the plastic vent pipes will be whisper quiet.

Working with the cast iron drain piping is not much different than plastic. The biggest challenge is cutting the pipe to length. This can be done with several tools. You can rent a cast iron snapper that actually cleanly cracks the pipe to the desired length. An abrasive cut-off saw with a special metal cutting blade can also be used. The least desirable tool in my opinion is a reciprocating saw with a coarse metal blade. If you use this saw, you have to pay attention in order to make a straight cut.

The cost of the cast iron is more than plastic drain piping. The material may cost, on average, about $200.00 more per full bathroom. I feel this is a bargain since you know you will have a quiet plumbing system. Keep in mind that if you choose to use plastic drain pipes, it will cost extra to insulate them.

Don't forget that your water supply lines can also create noise. To minimize water supply line noise be sure that the water lines feeding each fixture group are at least three quarters of an inch in diameter. A one half inch diameter water pipe should never feed two separate fixtures. Small diameter water supply lines cause the speed of the water to increase as it flows towards the fixture. This increased speed creates turbulence and vibration which in turn creates noise.

Column 380

Patriotism is Never Out of Style

Posted on by Tim Carter
flag pole

Flag Poles | The good news is that you can create a home built flagpole that will be durable and maintenance free for many years.

DEAR TIM: Prior to the terrorist attack on the World Trade Center I was a ho-hum patriot. The vicious act has galvanized me into action. I want an in-ground flagpole and I want one now. How can I make a sturdy flagpole that will stand 15 to 20 feet tall so I can proudly fly Old Glory each and every day? What do I need to know? Do you think the average homeowner can do this inexpensively? Bill B., Sea Girt, NJ

DEAR BILL: You are a great American my friend! I think it is a splendid idea to build a flagpole. The day after the attack I took out my large 5 foot by 8 foot Old Glory and hung it from the hooks on my front porch. Prior to the attack I just displayed the flag on national holidays. But my wife and I now feel that was a mistake. We should have been flying the flag each and every day. Until such time as you complete your flagpole, figure out a way to respectfully fly your flag.

The good news is that you can create a home built flagpole that will be durable and maintenance free for many years. The supplies to build the flagpole cost just a tad over $100.00. This flagpole will work just as well as a factory made one.

Call a local plumbing supply house and see if they stock two inch inner diameter galvanized iron pipe. If so, you are in luck. These normally come in 21 foot lengths. You will need them to deliver it unless you have a truck with ladder racks. The pipe will be a little heavy and very gangly. While you are at the plumbing supply house, purchase two stainless steel band clamps that will fit around this pipe with plenty of slack. You will need these clamps to attach the rope cleat to the pole. The rope cleat is the bent hook device that captures and holds the halyard or flagpole rope.

The most important part to obtain is the truck that sits at the top of the pole. This is the pipe capping device that contains the pulley wheel. You can buy a simple pulley if you wish and creatively attach it to the top of the pole but a truck assembly is made to fit perfectly on top of the pipe. Factory built flagpoles often have sophisticated single and double truck assemblies so that two flags can be flown from the same pole. The deluxe models have trucks that rotate freely so the flag doesn't wrap around the pole as the wind direction changes.

Since your pole will be relatively short, you need not be too concerned about wind problems. High winds create enormous amounts of drag on flags and a flag that is too large on a tall flag pole can actually cause the pole to bend or snap. Your 2 inch galvanized iron pipe will easily support a 5 foot by 8 foot flag in a high wind.

It is very important to install the base of the pipe in a solid foundation. The two inch iron pipe needs to slide into a pipe sleeve that has an inner diameter slightly larger than the outer diameter of the flagpole. You can often find this pipe at a welding shop. I would purchase a 3 foot length of this pipe and have the welder tack a 6 inch by 6 inch flat steel plate on the bottom. Do not weld the plate solidly to the bottom of the sleeve pipe. Water needs to be able to drain out of this pipe as it collects during rain storms.

This top of this sleeve needs to be flush with the ground level and should be surrounded with concrete. Place at least 6 inches of concrete under the sleeve and 12 inches around the sides of the sleeve. It is best to pour the concrete in two separate pours. Pour the 6 inch footer first and let it harden. Then place the sleeve in the ground and use a level to plumb it. Slowly pour stiff concrete mix into the hole around the sleeve. As you pour the concrete take periodic readings to make sure the sleeve is indeed perfectly plumb. Let the concrete cure for at least a week before you insert the galvanized pipe into the sleeve. Be sure you attach the truck to the top of the pole before you do this. Prior to erecting the pipe check for overhead high voltage wires. Electrocution is a real danger if the pipe contacts an energized conductor.

Factory made flagpoles are installed in the same manner. Many of them have fancy hardware and gorgeous metal finishes. The least expensive pole may cost you $275 or more. What's more, the recent surge in patriotism may create a demand that will outstrip the current supply. Old Glory will not be offended in the least if you fly her from a simple yet effective galvanized flagpole.

Column 381

Masking Tapes

Posted on by Tim Carter
masking tape

Masking Tape - The old standard is right there in the middle - the beige rubber - based masking tape. But look at all of the fascinating tape products that surround it!

DEAR TIM: I gave up on using traditional beige masking tape years ago. It destroyed several finishes, stuck to my glass windows and hardwood floors and basically was more trouble than it was worth. Now I see different colored masking tapes at the hardware store. Is this just a clever trick to repackage a product that has disappointed me far too many times? Are there masking tapes that indeed work? Tara C., Yakima, WA

DEAR TARA: Ouch! I definitely feel your pain. You and I and most likely millions of other contractors and homeowners have ruined painted finishes, floors, furniture and wallpaper by trusting traditional masking tape. Traditional beige masking tape, to the best of my knowledge, has never come with instructions. All the tape manufacturers needed to tell us was that you can not leave it in place for much longer than 4 to 24 hours on most surfaces and to never use it on other delicate surfaces. The good news is that there are a multitude of ouchless, user friendly, high performance masking tapes available today.

The beige masking tape that you see in many paint stores and hardware stores was developed nearly 80 years ago. The adhesive on many of them is rubber based. When you apply the tape to a surface the solvents in the adhesive often soak into that porous surface. The mechanical bond of the tape to the object increases as more of this solvent leaves the adhesive. Heat and ultraviolet (UV) light can rapidly increase the setting time to such a degree that in some cases the tape can't be easily removed in just four hours! If you leave traditional masking tape on for days or weeks at a time, it can become a nightmare to remove.

About 15 years ago, the masking tape industry responded. New tapes were developed that use an acrylic based adhesive that is much more forgiving. In fact many of the acrylic adhesives are so highly refined and UV resistant that certain tapes can be left in place for longer periods of time with little risk of damaging the surface you are trying to protect from paint or stain brush strokes or over-spray.

The tape manufacturers also came to realize that no one masking tape could do all things for all people. This is another reason why there has been an explosion of different tapes in just the past five years. You can purchase a masking tape that will safely protect delicate wall paper or a 6 hour old faux paint finish. If you need to apply masking tape to a coarse surface like concrete block or rough wood siding you can now buy a tape that will do the job and release cleanly. No matter what the job, there is very likely a specific tape that will yield magical results

Masking tapes fail or harm surfaces when they are left on a surface too long. Many of the new tapes are labeled in such a way that they clearly indicate the maximum time you should leave them in place. Some manufacturers have even gone so far as to print use instructions and guidelines on the inner core of the roll so you have a built-in users guide with you at all times. This is indeed a handy feature.

One of the coolest safe release tapes I have seen is a yellow one that looks like you glued a tape measure to a wall. The tape has highly accurate inch markings - from 1 to 96 - split up into16ths of an inch that repeat every eight feet. This is a handy tape to use if you are faux painting and need to create perfectly aligned strips on a wall or ceiling. Use your imagination for other uses of this neat tape.

You can still have problems with certain new masking tapes. If you are trying to create crisp lines or pin stripes and are painting with latex paint, you should apply the tape to the surface and use significant pressure on the paint edge line. This will prevent paint from seeping below the taped edge. Immediately after you apply the paint, remove the tape. As you pull the tape off the surface, keep it at a 90 degree angle from the surface to get the most crisp line. If you wait for hours or days to pull the tape, you can have a real mess.

Column 382

The Next Generation of Vinyl Siding – Solid Core

Posted on by Tim Carter

Read Author's Notes at the End of This Column

Vinyl Siding - Solid Core

DEAR TIM: Lately energy costs are quite unstable. Add to that the rising cost of about everything. I need to save money. I love the look of painted wood siding but don't want to break out a paint brush every five to seven years. Is there a vinyl siding product that really looks like wood and offers superior energy efficiency? When I add the siding to my home, what can I do to stop or minimize outside noise from getting into my home? Randy T., Dublin, OH

DEAR RANDY: Anyone who thinks energy prices are going to go down and stay down in the near future needs to wake up. Much of the energy we use to heat and cool our homes comes from natural resources that can not be replenished as fast as we use them. As the population grows and the resources dwindle, energy prices will most certainly rise. It is very wise for you to think about reducing energy costs with each and every building material you choose.

Vinyl siding was first introduced in 1957. Believe it or not, the product has not changed radically until this year. One of its claims to fame has always been the no maintenance attribute. Once you install vinyl, it rarely requires care. But the stumbling block for many years has always been its appearance. For years, manufacturers have tried all sorts of things to make vinyl siding mimic wood. Countless different profile sizes, wood grained embossing, and even multi-colored extruded siding have all fallen short of the mark in my opinion.

Perhaps the biggest problem vinyl siding manufacturers have faced has been the lack of rigidity of the product. If you touch typical vinyl siding on a home, it simply is not solid. What's more, the exterior walls on most wood frame houses are not perfectly flat. Thin vinyl siding and even thicker fiber cement and some wood sidings have a tendency to follow each and every bump and dip. Add to this problem, the fact that most of the vinyl siding products that resemble wood siding have a curl in each lap. This unsightly curl is a dead giveaway that the siding is not wood.

All of these problems and more have been solved by a revolutionary no maintenance vinyl siding that has just hit the marketplace. This product has a solid foam core that allows the siding to lay incredibly flat on a humpy exterior wall. The siding has an R-value of 4.0. Traditional vinyl siding, most wood sidings, and fiber cement sidings typically have an R-value of less than 1.0. R-value is a measurement of resistance to heat loss or heat gain. The higher the value the more energy you save. This new siding is so energy efficient that it carries the prestigious Energy Star label. You will search long and hard for other siding products that bear this label.

The foam core that is laminated to the back of the siding interlocks as it is installed. This creates a solid foam barrier around all of the exterior walls of your home. This is important because the wall studs and the top and bottom wall plates used to construct the exterior walls create breaks in the wall insulation systems. The foam core also slows air infiltration. Outside noise travels through air gaps in the side walls of your home. This new siding is an excellent sound deadening material.

Traditional vinyl siding has typically been vulnerable to impact damage from hail, baseballs, golf balls, etc. The foam core in this new siding increases impact resistance by 300 percent. This feature is very important as your home ages with time. It is not easy to find replacement siding that matches perfectly 10 - 15 years after it has been installed. If you use this new foam core siding, you should not have to worry about this maintenance issue.

Be sure to ask about the trim pieces that are needed to install the siding. This new vinyl siding comes with foam filled outside corners that resemble the trim on my Queen Anne Victorian home. They are very attractive. Wide profile foam filled window and door trim is also available. The curb appeal of a home covered with this new siding is unparalleled. Trust me, any vinyl siding manufacturer that wants to be a player will be forced to make solid core siding. If they don't, they will have to employ the absolute best sales people on the planet.

Installing vinyl siding on your house? Find the best professionals by using my Vinyl Siding Checklist. I offer a 100% Money Back Guarantee.

Author's Notes:
December, 2004

My prediction came true. When I wrote this column, I was certain that other vinyl siding manufacturers would follow the lead of the first company that introduced solid foam-core vinyl siding. As of today, it is a commodity item. Virtually every vinyl siding company offers foam-backed siding or a foam filler option. Which one is the best? Well, price is always a good barometer of quality. Start there first. If you run into trouble, email me.

Rag Painting

Posted on by Tim Carter
rag painting

The rag painting process creates a look similar to that of rich leather on wall surfaces. Up close the wall looks like a child tried to paint it.

DEAR TIM: I saw a segment on television that showed how one could create a unique look on interior walls using colored glaze and rags. Is this method really as attractive as it looks? Is there an easy way to do the job? Rolling a rag down a wall looks like hard work to me. Are there any trade secrets you are willing to share about the process? Amy G., Lexington, KY

DEAR AMY: The rag faux painting look on walls is absolutely spectacular. I can assure you that it will take the breath away from all of your friends and neighbors who come by to see the completed job. They will beg you for the name of the painter that did it. You will be astounded at how simple it is to create this look.

The rag painting process creates a look similar to that of rich leather on wall surfaces. Up close the wall looks like a child tried to paint it. The overall wall color looks mottled and uneven. But when you stand back eight or ten feet, the surface looks rich and tantalizing. The effect is achieved when translucent glaze is applied over regular wall paint. Glazes can be applied clear for different effects but look best when they are tinted with color.

The key is to pick the correct background color and a complimentary glaze color. Certain paint stores have color combinations that have already been selected by decorating professionals. You can do your own custom colors if you like so that you can match furniture or curtain fabrics. That is what I recently did in my own basement. My glaze color matches a certain highlight color in my couch fabric.

Before you rag roll, you must paint the walls a base color. This is typically a light color that is in the same color family as the glaze. For example, the base color of my walls is an extremely light green color. It is basically an off-white. The glaze I used is a medium green that looks very close to the color of a lime rind. The base color is almost always a flat paint and must dry at least 24 hours before applying the glaze.

Using rags to create the effect is a tough job in my opinion. I found a unique rag roller cover that fits onto a standard paint roller frame. This rag roller has a twisted fabric that fits over a plastic tube that slides onto the roller frame. The roller is dipped into the glaze just as you would dip a standard roller cover into paint. The twisted fabric creates random high and low spots on the roller. As you roll the glaze onto the wall it applies the glaze unevenly. This is precisely the effect you want. The trick is to roll the rag roller around to spread the glaze so that it is a very thin film. Do not roll as you would ordinary paint. The more random and wild the roller strokes the better.

The glaze is a little tricky to work with. It can flash dry in as little as 90 to 120 seconds. If this happens you will have ugly overlap areas where you overlap the glaze as you proceed sideways or up and down a wall. The trick is to keep a wet edge on the glaze so this does not happen. Use a special glaze extender product that you mix with the glaze to slow down the drying time. The extenders look like a milky liquid but will not alter the color of the glaze. They will usually give you an extra 10 minutes of working time but certainly no more. You must move quickly and do an entire wall at once.

The glaze must not be allowed to get on wall surfaces that have yet to be rolled or have previously been rolled. Wet glaze applied over dried glaze looks horrible since it appears so much darker than a single coat. Inside wall corners need to be taped with special masking tape that has low tack adhesive that will not damage the fresh wall paint. The tape prevents glaze from getting onto the wall that has yet to be done. A paint brush dipped in glaze that is dabbed into the corners will help finish wall surfaces that the rag roller can not easily cover.

One of the benefits of the rag roll glaze technique is the washability of the wall surface. The glaze dries with a slightly glossy appearance. If you get dirt or spills on the wall, they are quite easy to clean off. If the wall gets scratched or dented you can repair it if you work carefully. The trick is to touch up the scratch or gouge only. Do not let any base coat paint or glaze get on the undamaged wall surfaces.

Column 384

Window Glass Replacement

Posted on by Tim Carter
replacement glass

This is double pane glass, but the sash is designed to hide the spacer strip between the two pieces of glass.

Window Glass Replacement

DEAR TIM: I have several cracked panes of glass in the drafty windows of my 70 year old home. I was thinking of changing out the single pane glass to insulated glass.

Is this even possible? Is it cost effective and will it solve my draft problems? What would be the best way to preserve the look and maximize my energy savings? Todd S., Ogunquit, ME

DEAR TODD: The time to act is now since Old Man Winter is lurking right around the corner.

Windows = Weakest Link!

Windows in the average home are by and large the weakest link in the energy chain. They typically have the lowest resistance to the transfer of heat and cold. Furthermore the weatherstripping, or lack thereof, can allow vast amounts of heating and cooling dollars to leak out into the atmosphere.

Free & Fast BIDS

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local glass companies who can repair cracked and missing glass.

The idea of switching out your old single pane glass with newer double pane insulated glass is very good in theory. But in reality it can be almost impossible to do. Window sashes are built with a ledge or mortise that accepts the pane of glass. This part of your existing window was made to fit a pane of glass that is only 1/8 inch thick or so. If you put insulated glass that is typically about one half inch thick in this grooved space, there will be little or no space left to add your glazing compound.

You might consider making your existing mortise deeper to accommodate the insulated glass panel. This is not only very difficult to do without specialized tools, it will very likely ruin the interior profile of the window sash where the wood touches the glass. You will indeed remove some of this molded profile as you cut away wood.

The cost issue is also a factor. Clear insulated glass often costs about $10.00 per square foot. If you want higher performance glass that has the Low-E glass on it, expect to pay $14.00 or more per square foot. The Low-E glass is a very good choice because it helps save you money. This glass is covered with an ultra-thin coating of metal that allows the glass to repel radiated heat back to its source. This means heat stays inside your home in the winter but stays outside in the summer.

The average window in your home may have approximately 10 square feet of glass. You could easily spend $140.00 or more just for the glass. This will solve your glass problems but you haven't even begun to deal with the draft deficiency. Adding attractive permanent weatherstripping can be a huge challenge.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local glass companies who can repair cracked and missing glass.

I think you are a perfect candidate for the wood window replacement kits. These items allow you to get all of the benefits of a new window with less work than installing completely new windows or retrofitting your existing windows. The interior and exterior trim of your existing windows remains intact and a typical window can be completely redone in about 1.5 hours.

The window replacement kits solve the draft problems instantly. The modern form fitted jamb liners you see on new windows are included with the kits. These are cut to fit perfectly into the side jambs of your existing window frames. Not only do these jamb liners stop air infiltration into your home they also stop noise. I have installed hundreds of these kits. All of the homeowners have told me that exterior road noise has been significantly reduced.

Certain window companies that make these kits offer all sorts of fine options. If you have very old windows that have decorative horns you can often get these replicated. Certain companies offer discreet retractable screens that roll up out of the way. This is a very nice feature that simplifies insect screen storage. Decorative glass is often an option.

If you decide to tackle this project yourself, be sure to buy just one or two window kits. Do a smaller window on the side or back of your home. If you get the hang of the job and feel confident about doing the larger windows, then place the order for the additional windows. If you find that the job is simply too hard, ask the window supplier for a labor and material quote.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local glass companies who can repair cracked and missing glass.

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Home Alone – Winterizing Your Home

Posted on by Tim Carter
water line valves

Here is my main water shutoff valve. It is the lowest valve in the photo. Above it is a tee fitting with a boiler drain. I can attach a garden hose to this valve and all of the water in my house supply lines can be emptied into a nearby floor drain.

DEAR TIM: I own two homes and live about six months per year in each one. One house is up north where the winter winds howl and the other house is in the sunny south. What is the best way to close up these houses when I leave? With the rising utility costs is it possible to completely shut off all heat in my northern home? Can I close up my southern home and turn the air conditioning off? Dyke S., Peoria, IL

DEAR DYKE: Any number of people own two or more homes and do exactly what you do. Many more people like me don't own two houses but may leave their own home for an extended amount of time. Leaving a home alone can become an expensive proposition if things go wrong in your absence. And more often than not, things do go wrong. You can turn off your furnace and air conditioner to save money but certain things need to be done to protect your home and the interior furnishings. Your home down south requires the least amount of attention.

Water, both in the liquid and vapor state, is your biggest enemy. The water in regular household plumbing supply lines is under significant pressure. If a pipe or washing machine supply hose bursts, thousands of gallons of water can begin to flood the home. Imagine the nightmare if you happen to live in a condominium and the water lines above your unit burst? It has happened and the damage loss is unbelievable. You must turn off your main water shutoff valve whenever you leave either home.

The water that is in your northern home's water lines needs to be drained. Water that freezes in supply lines or traps in drainage lines can cause them to crack. Go to the lowest fixture in the house that has hot and cold water. Open those valves. Go to every plumbing fixture in the home and open all valves and flush all toilets. This will allow gravity to pull the water down through the system. Closed valves create vacuums that prevent water from draining.

Open all outdoor hose bibs as well. Lift up any flexible spray hoses in sinks and showers and allow the trapped water in these hoses to drain. Keep all valves at all fixtures partially open. Drain the hot water tank and water softener. Pour non-toxic antifreeze into all toilet bowls, sinks, tubs, showers, washing machine drains, and floor drains. This antifreeze can often be purchased at recreational vehicle or marine supply houses. A plumber should be called in to shut off the water outside you home. It is entirely possible for the plumbing line on the street side of your main shut off to freeze and burst if it gets cold enough inside the home during your absence. The water does not need to be drained from anything in your southern home.

If your northern home is a modern one that is fairly air tight, the water vapor in the air inside your home may cause all sorts of problems. Once you leave the temperature of interior surfaces begins to drop and the water vapor in the air can and will condense on many surfaces. Because millions of mold and mildew spores are on all of the surfaces and furniture, the condensed water provides them with the necessary water they need to begin to grow.

Open windows slightly to allow air to readily circulate through your home. Have a trusted friend or neighbor enter the house to check for signs of condensation. Within several weeks the indoor and outdoor humidity should have equalized. At that point the windows can be closed and locked for the remainder of the winter.

It is a wise idea to turn off all non-essential electrical circuit breakers. Only leave on those circuits that control security lighting. Electrical fires can and do happen even though an appliance or fixture is in the off position. Empty all perishable food from your refrigerator. Turn off your natural gas or propane supply valve outside your home if at all possible. Contact your local utility company or fuel supplier for help with this job.

Notify your local police and fire department before you leave. There is a very good chance they will provide you with a list of helpful tips that will prevent your home from becoming a statistic in your absence. Be sure they know how to get in touch with you. Consider storing valuable or sentimental items in a separate secure storage facility or take them with you.

Column 386

Drywall Problems – Blisters and Falling Tape

Posted on by Tim Carter
drywall blisters

Drywall blisters are prevented by ensuring you have at least a 1/16th-inch layer of joint compound UNDER the tape. Do not scrape out all of the mud from under the tape. Copyright 2018 Tim Carter

Drywall Blisters - Common Mistake / Easy To Avoid

Drywall blisters are bubbles that form under paper drywall tape. The form because too much joint compound was scraped from under the tape. The joint compound contains glue that holds the paper tape to the drywall surface.

DEAR TIM: My bullheaded husband has been trying to finish some drywall. The taped seams constantly blister when he applies the second coat of compound.

Some of the tape delaminates a day or two later. He says the pre-mixed joint compound is defective. What's the secret?

Just how does one get perfect blister free taped drywall joints? We are running out of time. Thanks. Karla D., Norridge, IL

Related Links

Top Drywall Finishing Secrets - Sharing Years of Experience

Taping Drywall - Basic Steps in Seconds

DEAR KARLA: Let's not be too tough on your husband. After all, he is giving it the old college try.

Drywall Blisters Mean Defective Finisher, Not Joint Compound

The odds that the pre-mixed joint compound in the bucket is defective are very low. If the product was fresh when purchased and has not been frozen, it should be fine.

You can test to see if it is good by simply spreading a 1/8 inch patch of it on some dust free drywall. Let it dry. If it is difficult to remove with a scraping tool, the product is fine.

Leave Mud Under Tape

The most common reason for drywall tape blisters is a lack of joint compound between the tape and the drywall surface. All too often I see rookie weekend warriors make the mistake of removing too much joint compound from underneath the tape.

Some people press the taping knife so hard they snap it in two! The blisters form on the second coat when the tape absorbs moisture from the second application of joint compound.

The paper tape swells and there simply is not adhesive present to hold the paper tape flat. Keep in mind that the pre-mixed joint compounds are simply advanced water-based adhesives mixed with finely ground solids that give them body and mass.

drywall finishing

This small section of wall has just about every drywall finish challenge in it: flat and tapered seams, inside and outside corners and an archway! Copyright 2018 Tim Carter

Ideally, one should place one-sixteenth of an inch of joint compound between the tape and the drywall to prevent blister and tape delamination. The tapered edge of drywall is made to accommodate this.

The recessed area created when two pieces abut one another is about one-eighth inch deep. The paper tape should be right in the middle of this area with equal amounts of joint compound above and below it.

You can also switch to a different open mesh tape that actually sticks directly to the drywall. Apply it first and then cover it with joint compound.

The trick to achieving pro results with traditional paper tape is not magic but it does take a considerable amount of hand-eye coordination, joint compound mixed to the right consistency, and the right tools.

Professional drywall finishers add just a small amount of water to pre-mixed joint compound and then stir it by hand or with a paddle attached to a drill.

Watch this video of me showing you how to get the right consistency when you use joint compound:

The compound, once mixed, resembles smooth warm cake icing that will actually slowly flow out of a bowl or pan. Often the joint compound from the factory is moist but far too stiff.

Avoid Drywall Blisters With Correct Knife

My tool of choice is a five inch wide flexible taping knife. I use it to apply a generous amount, up to a one-quarter inch thick, of joint compound to the drywall seam surface.

drywall taping knife

This is a great knife to tape drywall. Be sure to round off the corners with a metal file to avoid tearing inside corner tape. CLICK THE IMAGE NOW to have this knife delivered to your home.

Step-By-Step Taping Tips

It's important to make several light passes over the compound to smooth it out and remove some of the excess material. It is now time to place the tape.

Be sure it is centered in the seam. I angle the knife blade much like a snow plow and lightly press as I glide the knife over the seam. With each pass, a little more compound oozes out from beneath the tape. I stop when I am confident that the tape is at the desired depth in the recessed seam area.

Use Fan To Speed Drying Time

To speed drying time you can place a regular oscillating fan in the room. This will help speed up the drying time. It is also possible to use a rapid set joint compound.

These products are sold in the dry form and are mixed on site with water. They come in different set times and some set hard in as little as 30 minutes. Using these materials you can tape, second coat and final coat drywall in less than 90 minutes.

Mix Small Amounts of Rapid-Set Joint Compound

If you decide to use these rapid set materials to make up for lost time, you must be careful not to mix up too much at one time.

I made that mistake once and a half bucket of compound turned rock hard in the bucket while I was up on a ladder. Using cold water can retard the set time slightly. If the compound does start to set up before it is used, do not add more water. Simply discard it and make a new batch.

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