March 12, 2017 AsktheBuilder Newsletter

Posted on by Tim Carter

If you're a new, or newer, subscriber I want to welcome you!

This is going to be a slightly unusual newsletter because I've been absent for about two weeks.

Here's why.

Trip to Cincinnati, OH

Two weeks ago, I was packing and making last-minute preparations to drive to Cincinnati, OH, tugging my enclosed trailer behind my Ford F-250 Super Duty truck.

The trip was multi-purpose with the primary focus helping liquidate my in-laws estate. My truck and trailer was packed to the gills on the return trip bringing back some furniture and other heirloom items that used to belong to my mother and father-in-law.

I was also there on business that's directly related to you.

The Tornado

The first night I arrived, there was a huge cold-weather front passing through the Midwest. It spawned a small tornado as dawn was breaking. The twister churned and skipped across the ground just one-half mile from where I was asleep.

It passed just 500 feet from the brother of the person I was staying with. Many were fortunate and no one was injured.

The weather in Cincinnati went from balmy to bitter. I thought I was in New Hampshire as it was cold, rainy and windy for quite a few days.

The Old Building

I spent quite a bit of time with a close friend Nick Motz and his darling wife Mary Beth Wilker. Kathy and I attended their wedding years ago as I've known Nick since he was in high school.

Nick's an accomplished real estate broker and contractor. He's a key player in the revitalization of the East End along Riverside Drive.

Two days after arriving, he and I went on an adventure to the booming Over the Rhine district north of the core of downtown Cincinnati.

As we were driving around looking at all the progress, I spotted a building.

It wasn't just any old building.

"Nick, turn around. I need to get a photo of that building."

Within minutes, he went around the block and parked. I got out and started shooting with my Canon EOS 50D.

©2017 Tim Carter

You can see where the building next door had caught on fire and scorched the side of this relic.

But I didn't care so much about that. I was keenly interested on the outer covering of this row house.

It was covered with Inselbric and it was in fantastic condition.

When I say fantastic condition, I mean as if it was just installed last month.

But it wasn't installed last month.

There's a very good chance it was installed eight years before the Japanese bombed Pearl Harbor.

Look at the original trademark filing information below. Yes, that's October 15, 1931.


The above photo is a close up of the material.

What does it resemble to you? Can you see the different colored granules?

Did you guess asphalt shingles? Good for you.

Inselbric was made using the same materials as what's probably up on your own roof.

My Roofing Ripoff Book

I've been on a quest for the past year to get my hands on some of this material because it plays a key part in my Roofing Ripoff book that's now just days away from being ready for you.

Twenty-one months ago, my own asphalt shingle roof was falling apart in front of my eyes.

My fifteen-year-old shingles that had a thirty-year warranty looked like they were fifty years old. They were delaminating and bare wood was exposed to the weather.

For the record, I didn't build or install the first roof on the house I live in here in central New Hampshire.

You may be wondering, "Tim, what in the world does Inselbric have to do with your old roof?"

Everything.

How is it that the Inselbric siding can look so good after being exposed to the elements for over eighty years and my asphalt shingles couldn't last ten years before they started to curl and loose granules faster than gravel tumbling from a dump truck?

Cracked the Code

I decided to find out why my asphalt shingles, and those of just about everyone else in the USA, were falling apart at such an alarming rate.

Not only did I expose what's going on in my upcoming book, I did one better.

I was the first person in the world to discover something very very simple you can do to make your asphalt roof last for decades and decades.

It's Just About Ready

Here's the cover for the book. If all goes well, you'll be reading an electronic version in just fourteen days or less.

Have you noticed that your own asphalt shingles are loosing granules?

Are your shingles starting to curl just a few years after they've been installed?

Then you'll want to read this book for sure.

Watch upcoming issues of this newsletter for the announcement when you can purchase a PDF version or one you can read on your Kindle.

I guarantee you'll be shocked at what I discovered.

New Revised Columns For You

While I was in Cincinnati, I was able to revise some of my old columns. I don't think any of the following are repeats that I've shared two weeks ago.

Remember, the columns contain:

  • New content
  • Videos when available
  • Great product links
  • Enlarged photos
  • Links to contractors in your town you can hire

I'd scan all these just to see what's in them:

How to Dissolve PVC Glue

Truss Uplift and Ceiling Cracks

Cracked Treated Wood

Remove Grout From Ceramic Tile

GREAT Outdoor Wood Furniture Sealer

How to CLEAN GROUT

Hardwood Floor Installation

Okay, that's enough for today. I need to put the final touches on the Roofing Ripoff book. I'll be very busy this week.

Tim Carter
Founder - www.AsktheBuilder.com

Do It Right, Not Over!

Dissolve PVC Glue

Posted on by Tim Carter

Dissolve PVC Glue TIPS

Roger Hull is working in a tight spot trying to dissolve some PVC glue. He's in Denham Springs, Louisiana. Here's what he asked me:

"I'm in a tight spot between floor joists. I'm trying to take apart some 4" PVC. Is there anything that will help dissolve the PVC cement?"

It's Permanent

Here's my answer:

Roger, I've been a master plumber since 1980. PVC pipe and fittings was really starting to take off and become widespread about that time.

Tight Joints

The chemistry of PVC primer and the glue or cement is such that it attempts to create both a chemical and mechanical bond between the two pieces of PVC. When you apply primer to the PVC surfaces, it softens the hard plastic at the surface.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local plumbers who can get you out of trouble.

PVC Glue

This is a can of standard PVC primer. It has the consistency of water. PVC cement or glue is like warm maple syrup. CLICK THE IMAGE NOW TO HAVE THIS PVC PRIMER AND GLUE DELIVERED TO YOUR HOME.

As soon as you apply the PVC cement or glue, the softened molecules of the PVC then interlock with one another with the slightly melted PVC on the pipe and fitting.

It's very similar to how two pieces of steel join once they're melted and welded together. But be aware the contact zone where the pipe touches the fitting surface is not as strong as the actual pipe itself.

PVC Videos

Watch these two videos to get an idea of how PVC works and why it's so hard to get the pipe and fittings apart once glued.


No Magic Liquid

I'm not aware of any liquid that will dissolve the cement that makes up a PVC joint. What's more, I can't even imagine how you'd get it into that tight space between the pipe and the fitting.

Not A Real Weld

You'll hear the term that the PVC will weld to each other, but don't confuse that with welding steel where the weld is often stronger than the individual pieces of steel.

In the case of PVC, the bond is pretty strong, but it's able to be defeated with heat, not a liquid. If you cut the piece out, you can sometimes get the male piece of pipe out of the female hub.

Repair Coupling Solution

If you can, it may just be easier to cut out the fitting(s), install new ones and use a repair coupling to make your final connection. The issue is as you increase pipe size up to 4 inches, you have VERY little working time to slide the repair coupling into position.

A repair coupling is one that doesn't have a center ridge inside and you can slide the entire coupling over a piece of pipe.

pvc glue

This is a PVC repair coupling. It doesn't have a center ridge inside. CLICK THE IMAGE NOW TO HAVE THIS DELIVERED TO YOUR HOME.

Heat makes it worse. Higher air temperatures decrease the working time.

I wish you the best of luck.

This column was updated and featured in the March 15, 2015 AsktheBuilder Weekend Newsletter.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local plumbers who can get you out of trouble.

Truss Uplift and Ceiling Cracks

Posted on by Tim Carter

Truss Uplift and Ceiling Crack TIPS

DEAR TIM: Cracks have begun to appear where the walls meet the ceiling in the top floor of my home. These cracks are most prominent along the walls in the center of the house.

I've also noticed that the baseboard has lifted up from the floor in other places. These cracks seem to close up on a seasonal basis.

Sturdy, prefabricated wood trusses were used to build my roof. What's happening? What if anything can be done to prevent the unsightly cracks? Ben - Traverse City, MI

DEAR BEN: There are a multitude of things that can be causing these cracks.

Trusses Move

The first thing that comes to my mind is a phenomenon called "truss uplift". Although truss uplift causes approximately 20 percent of problems like yours, it's something you should consider.

Undersized beams, expansive clay soils, wet floor joist lumber that shrinks, and other structural problems also can cause the cracks you see.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local rough carpenters that can crawl around your attic to fix truss uplift issues.

Flat Bottom Chord Curves

Most simple roof trusses consist of a flat horizontal member called a bottom chord. The sloped portions of the truss that form the roof surface are called the top chords.

However, the bottom chord can develop an upwards curve as the seasons change.

Temperature & Humidity Battle

The bottom chord in your house and many others like yours is probably buried in insulation. Because the truss is touching the warm ceiling drywall below and the temperature of the insulation close to the ceiling is far warmer than the attic air temperature, the wood truss is none too happy. 

Meanwhile, the upper portion of the truss is exposed to cool and drier attic air. Since wood is a hygroscopic material, any of the wood that makes up the truss that's exposed to the air in the attic releases moisture in the winter months.

The bottom chord that's buried in the insulation tends to have a higher moisture content because it thinks it's much warmer in the attic than it actually is.

Bottom Chord Bends

The differences in moisture content cause the truss to bend. The lumber of the truss exposed to the cold, dry air shrinks and pulls up on the flat bottom chord causing it to lift and curve upwards.

The greatest amount of upwards movement is in the center of the truss. As the truss moves upwards, it takes the drywall ceiling with it.

This might explain why your cracks are larger as you get closer to the center of the house.

Up Go The Walls

If, for some reason, the interior walls are nailed more securely to the truss than the floor, the truss will actually lift the entire wall. This will account for gaps you might see at your baseboard trim.

Preventing Truss Uplift

There's a way to prevent this problem. If you're building a new house, don't allow the carpenter to nail the roof trusses directly to any interior walls

Instruct him to use handy metal L-shaped truss clips. These simple, inexpensive devices attach directly to the top of interior walls.

This simple clip is all that's needed to prevent truss uplift. The bottom is nailed to the top wall plates. A nail is driven through the slot into the side of the bottom chord of the truss. Be sure this nail is NOT driven tight. You want the truss to be able to flex up and down without pulling up the wall with it. CLICK THE IMAGE NOW TO HAVE THESE CLIPS DELIVERED TO YOUR HOME WITHIN DAYS.

The long leg of the clip contains a slot. A nail is driven through the slot into the side of the truss. The head of the nail is driven so it is just short of touching the metal clip.

This allows the truss to move up and down independently of the wall.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local rough carpenters that can crawl around your attic to fix truss uplift issues.

Drywall Hanger ALERT!

The drywall hangers must cooperate as well. Don't allow them to nail or screw the drywall directly to the trusses within 16 inches of an interior wall.

They can fasten the drywall to pieces of wood that fit between the trusses or metal clips that attach to the top of the interior walls.

Because the upward truss movement occurs over a period of weeks or months, the drywall will flex at the corners. Cracks should become a thing of the past.

Repair Existing Homes

If you have an existing home that suffers from truss uplift, it can be corrected with some effort. You need to climb into the attic area and get to work before it gets too hot.

Use a cat's paw tool to remove nails which connect trusses to interior walls. Install the L shaped clips in their place.

After the truss clips are in place, nail a board on top of each interior wall which overhangs the wall by at least 1 inch on each edge. This will act as a bumper when the truss attempts to lift the drywall next year.

Fix The Nail Pops

When this occurs, you will probably see nail pops develop near the interior partitions. Take a large nail punch and drive these nails completely through the drywall.

This will release the drywall from the trusses at each partition. Patch these holes with regular joint compound and hope that the problem disappears.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local rough carpenters that can crawl around your attic to fix truss uplift issues.

Column 169

How To Get Started Flipping Houses

Posted on by Tim Carter
flipping houses

Here's an old inner-city house that might be a flipping candidate. It might also be better put into a landfill. ©2017 Tim Carter

How To Flip Houses TIPS

  • Cable TV shows are NOT realistic - don't believe them
  • Hard, dangerous and risky work filled with surprises
  • Plan for cost overruns - at least 50 percent
  • Landslides a real danger in certain areas
  • CLICK HERE to Get Tim's FREE & FUNNY Newsletter!

DEAR TIM: I’ve decided it’s time to take a chance and flip a house that was built in the 1890’s. I’ve watched plenty of shows on cable TV and feel it can’t be that hard.

Have you ever done this type of construction work? What did you experience and would you do it again? Are there unknown dangers and how risky do you feel it is?

It seems like it’s an easy way to make a sizable profit. Paul T., Erlanger, KY

DEAR PAUL: The first few years of my construction career were spent cutting my teeth, fingers, arms and legs rehabbing houses. Back years ago, that was the word used to describe what you’re thinking about doing. I could talk to you for hours about the challenges that lie ahead of you on this quest.

Cable TV Un-Reality Shows

Let’s talk about the cable TV shows since I’ve been doing professional home improvement video work for over twenty years. Most of the shows I’ve seen about flipping homes are produced as entertainment and not a tutorial or investment guide.

The shows are taped and edited so you feel happy after you watch them. The show producer wants you to watch a following episode.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local Construction Managers who can help you flip a house for a profit.

Pandering & Sizzle

There’s an old saying that I feel comes into play here. “A half-truth is a whole lie.” If a cable TV show about flipping houses told you the entire truth and revealed all that really happened from the start until the end of the project, you might end up with a sour taste in your mouth.

But if a show woos you with lots of glamour shots and the exciting aspects of the construction, you might turn off the TV, stretch your arms and get up from the couch feeling empowered and confident. It's my personal opinion after working in the video news business for years that cable TV show producers pander to their audiences.

Hard, Dangerous & Risky

Flipping houses is hard, dirty, dangerous and risky work. It’s not unicorns, rainbows, juice boxes and fruit rollups. You might have better odds making a profit if you roam through the Bellagio casino placing bets every ten minutes at different $100 blackjack tables.

This is especially true if you’ve got no real construction experience and you’ve never put together a detailed cost estimate for a project of this magnitude.

My Experiences

Let’s saunter down memory lane and add in a few things I saw just a few days ago while on a trip to Cincinnati, OH. Doing this will give you a small taste of what may lie ahead in your future.

Toxic Lead Paint 

Old houses, especially those build prior to 1967, contain vast amounts of lead paint in them. This is a given for ancient houses built in the late 1800’s and early 1900’s. Any painted surface you disturb can create lead dust that can poison you or anyone working with the material. I had no idea about lead poisoning decades ago while I tore out plaster, sanded old paint and created clouds of dust wearing cheap fabric breathing masks that were next to useless.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local Construction Managers who can help you flip a house for a profit.

Foundation Issues

I’ll never forget the house I built for Habitat for Humanity. Fortunately my money was not at risk, just eight hours of my time every Saturday for several months. It was the first house built on an old inner city lot in Cincinnati.

When we dug for the new foundation, we discovered a massive sub basement where the original house stood and it took 200 cubic yards of flash fill to provide enough solid support for the new house footers. The budget was blown for this job before we drove the first nail.

Active Termites

I’ll never forget the shock I felt at another old house when I opened up a wall to install a new window. I saw all these tiny white insects about the size of a grain of rice scurrying around. Lo and behold I was interrupting an extended family feast hosted by a giant nest of termites.

Clogged Full-Size Vent Pipe

Oh, and then there was the first old house I flipped for myself. I decided to replace the rotten cast-iron plumbing drain lines with new PVC plastic ones. Once I had the entire system put back together, I couldn’t understand why the toilet didn’t flush right. It turns out eighty years of scale and rust buildup at the bottom of the full-sized cast-iron vent stack was blocking air from getting into the plumbing system.

Landslide Danger!

As I write this column now, I’m less than ten miles from where you live. A few days ago I was touring a very vibrant community called the East End. It’s filled with old houses and small businesses that were built at the same time, or slightly before, the house you’re looking at.

Many of these structures are currently being pushed off their foundations by a massive landslide. The landslides you see on the news in California grab all the attention because they’re violent and come down the mountainsides like an avalanche of snow.

These Cincinnati landslides are not new. I was a geology student at the University of Cincinnati and had the good fortune to study the characteristics of the bedrock geology of the greater Cincinnati area. The hillsides around Cincinnati and the bottom of the hillsides in the river valleys are prone to landslides.

In Cincinnati, the unstable soil created when the weak shale in the Kope formation weathers moves like a sniper in a ghillie suit crawling through the weeds. Because of the slow movement, many in the community are blinded by the fog of complacency. This past week I saw tilted foundation walls, patio stones bulging up as the soil oozes upwards, and entire structures pushed off their foundation walls.

This is a copy of a United States Geologic Survey (USGS) geologic topographic map of the East End of Cincinnati, OH. The downtown area would be just to the left of what you see. The Kope and Lower Fairview formations are the light pink rock just above the magenta alluvium that's north of the Ohio River. (C) Copyright 2017 USGS and every US taxpayer that owns the maps. CLICK THE IMAGE TO BUY GEOLOGIC MAPS FOR YOUR AREA.

Foreclosure Looms?

Can you imagine what it might cost to stop or repair damage like this? If a lender discovers this is happening during construction or afterwards will he call the note requesting you pay in full your 30-year loan amount immediately? Will you be able to get new financing? Will you have to declare bankruptcy through a foreclosure?

Vandalism, thievery of building materials and tools, and tough code restrictions will great you as you jump into this project. Out-of-level floors, ancient sewer and water lines that may have reached the end of their useful lives and other money-sucking surprises await you. Just be sure you can handle delays, cost overruns and lots of stress.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local Construction Managers who can help you flip a house for a profit.

Column 1186

Cracked Treated Wood

Posted on by Tim Carter
Cracked Treated Wood

Can you believe this piece of treated lumber is new? It looks like a 30-year-old fishing pier. Copyright 2017 Tim Carter

Cracked Treated Wood TIPS

  • Treatment chemicals evaporate causing cracks
  • Seal with synthetic-resin sealers - See my test results below
  • WATCH wood epoxy video series below
  • Apply sealer within days of installing treated lumber
  • CLICK HERE to Get Tim's FREE & FUNNY Newsletter!

DEAR TIM: Over the summer, I ripped up the old boards on my deck and replaced them with new pressure treated boards.

Now that they've had time to dry out, I'm about to stain the deck but I've discovered that a handful of boards are already splintering and cracking. This is really disappointing especially since I spent a little extra on the premium boards.

What's your advice on what I should do to remedy this? Would power washing help our just produce the same result?

Or should I replace the problem boards altogether? Should the warranty on pressure treated boards cover this? Adam W., Dallastown, PA

DEAR ADAM: Oh my, what a shame you had this happen.

Answers Abound At AsktheBuilder.com

It's so unfortunate because for years I've had the remedy at my AsktheBuilder.com website in past columns about wood deck maintenance and care.

If you would have visited my website and spent just thirty minutes researching how to care for new lumber, you'd not have this problem.

You Goofed Up

I hate to break this to you, but the entire issue was caused by you. It's very unfortunate the lumber suppliers and the store you purchased it from didn't tell you the best way to protect your investment as you left the store.

I assume they didn't.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local companies that will seal your deck lumber.

Treated Lumber Can Be Very Wet

Here's what's going on. Treated lumber is injected with chemicals that are mixed with water.

Years ago, some of the treated lumber I worked with was so saturated with the water-based chemical brew that when you'd drive a nail into it, this liquid concoction would squirt out alongside the nail shaft as you drove the nail.

Sun & Wind Tear It Apart

As soon as you expose most treated lumber to the sun and wind by nailing it to deck joists, the liquid in the wood begins to exit to the air.

When the sun extracts this moisture out of the lumber, it creates significant tension stress within the wood fibers. Tension is the force that happens when you try to stretch, bend or pull something.

The lumber shrinks as the water leaves the wood leaving the chemicals behind that are intended to prevent the wood from rotting.

Cracks Replace The Water

This shrinkage usually causes tiny checking cracks to form. The cracks that are now filled with water take up the space previously occupied by the water that was in the wood.

These small check cracks are often about the width of a piece of paper and perhaps only an eighth of an inch long. In extreme case you can experience de-lamination along the boundaries of the summer and spring wood.

Summer wood is the dark ring you see in a log and the spring wood is the lighter-colored band.

Giant Splinters

When this de-lamination happens on flat-grained pieces of lumber, you end up with giant protruding splinters like I see in the photo you sent. There's no way to repair these.

Cracks Enlarge

Once you have cracks in the wood, you've got problems unless you stop the water from soaking into the wood. When the water soaks deeper into the wood by entering the cracks, as the sun and wind come back after the rain storm, the wood starts to shrink.

Each time this happens the tension forces usually cause the cracks to get bigger and bigger.

Pressure or Power Washing is BAD

Power washing lumber is the worst thing you can do. The high-pressure concentrated stream of water blasts away the less-dense spring wood.

What's more, it drives water deep into the cracks you already have. This is the last thing you want to happen.

Pressure Washing Video

Watch this video to see more damage caused by pressure washers.

Ground Water Vapor

To make matters worse, if your decking is close to the ground, say about 2 feet or less, water vapor coming up from the soil under the deck can damage the decking.

This water vapor causes the face of the decking on the underside of the deck to expand because water is entering the wood fibers.

On the other side, the sun and any wind is doing the opposite causing moisture to leave the wood. As we discussed, this causes the wood to shrink or get smaller.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local companies that will seal your deck lumber.

Cupped Decking Boards

When this happens, the decking will almost always cup. This means the decking gets higher on the edges and lower in the center much like a valley between two mountains.

Seal Treated Wood Immediately

You could have avoided this costly nightmare by just staining and sealing the wood as soon as it was installed. You want the wood to be dry enough so the sealers soak in, but not so dry as the tiny checking cracks are starting to happen.

Deck Sealer Test Results

A few years ago I did an independent test on name-brand deck sealers. I took extensive before and after photos to show how well each sealer performed on treated lumber and on cedar decking.

wood sealer test

These are four pieces of wood that were part of my extended outdoor wood sealer test. The two pieces on the left are cedar and the two smaller pieces are treated lumber. The dark gray, nearly black, piece was only out in the weather for four months. The piece to the right is what it looked like BEFORE it was put out in the sun and water!!! CLICK THIS IMAGE to get access to the full test results. Copyright 2017 Tim Carter

High-quality sealers stop water from entering treated lumber. You can often see water beading on decking that's been treated with a great sealer. 

CLICK HERE to get access to my independent test of deck sealers. You'll be able to discover who won my test.

Edges & Ends

While it requires much more work and stain / sealer, it's not a bad idea to seal and stain all sides and edges of the decking before it's installed. This means you need to have a place to set out each piece to dry after you've applied the sealer.

It's best to create a drying rack in a carport or inside a garage. The last place you want to place the freshly sealed boards is out in the direct sun where they can twist and warp as they dry.

Salvage & Sand

PC Woody

This is a great wood epoxy that will fill larger cracks in wood decking and outdoor wood. If the wood is starting to rot, get the kit that has the PC Petrifier component. CLICK THE IMAGE NOW TO HAVE THIS PRODUCT DELIVERED TO YOUR HOME.

You may be able to salvage some of the boards that are not too bad. I'd use a belt sander with medium sandpaper to see if you can make them look presentable.

The great sealers and stains will stop water from entering tiny checking cracks so if that's all you see after sanding, I'd keep those boards.

You can use a great waterproof wood epoxy to fill large cracks. It's stainable and while it won't look exactly like the natural wood, you'll stop water from doing more damage once you seal the wood and coat the epoxy.

Any others that have large splinters or delamination will have to be replaced. Don't expect the lumber company to give you free replacements as they know you caused the issue.

You may be able to get a significant discount on your replacement boards if you talk to the lumberyard manager.

Mention that you feel they should have given you a small pamphlet about how to care for the wood. I wish you the best of luck and be sure to follow any and all directions on the labels of the sealer / stain you purchase.

Wood Epoxy Install Videos

Watch this video series to see how to use the magic wood epoxy. It's very easy and you can save lots of money and time using this product in many instances.



 

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local companies that will seal your deck lumber.

Column 1116

Remove Grout from Ceramic Tile

Posted on by Tim Carter

Remove Grout From Ceramic Tile TIPS

Not a month goes by that someone doesn't email me and ask how to remove excess grout from a wall or floor tile job. People have sent me photos that make me cringe.

In the photos one can see massive amounts of excess grout and a heavy grout film on the face of the tile. I've seen huge messes!

Grout Is Concrete

I think many people who work with ceramic tile for the first time are not aware of what grout really is. For the most part it's Portland cement.

Wall grout is almost always 100-percent Portland cement powder. Floor grout is a blend of Portland cement and fine grains of pure silica sand.

Silica sand is extremely durable and is very hard. It's an excellent addition to floor grout and it's needed to make the grout strong once a grout line exceeds 1/8-inch in width.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local tile setters who are experts at cleaning off excess tile grout.

Sanded Grout Video

Watch this video to see what sanded grout looks like when mixed and properly installed.

Concrete Is Hard & Sticky

I can't imagine a person who doesn't respect how hard concrete or cement dries.

What's more, it's sticky. You should see how tenaciously cement sticks to smooth metal shovels and trowels. The microscopic crystals that grow as cement hardens lock onto objects like Velcro®.

Bad Advice

When people contact me about grout removal problems the common denominator is always, "...we were told the grout film would come right off."

Well, a very light haze will come off of glazed tiles with an old bath towel, but heavier deposits can be a nightmare to remove.

The light haze will almost always come off with ease because so much water has been used to strike the grout joints, there's not much Portland cement on the tile once the water evaporates.

Matte-Finish vs Glazed

Not all tile has the same finish. Glazed tile that has a smooth high-gloss surface is indeed the easiest to work with.

But quarry tile and some other tiles have a matte finish that makes them perfect targets for grouting nightmares. The rougher surfaces of these tiles are wonderful places for grout to attach itself.

Slate is no different. The cleft surfaces of natural slate can be a huge challenge when it comes to grouting.

If you look at a piece of slate under a magnifying glass it looks like the valley and ridge province of the Appalachian Mountains.

The grout can get trapped with ease in the tiny valleys and low spots in natural slate.

Secret Sugar Trick

I know this is going to sound crazy, but try it. Take one gallon of warm water and dissolve a cup of sugar into it.

Take this sweet solution and pour it onto excess grout on a floor. If you have wall tile with too much grout, then soak paper towels in the solution and place them on the tile.

Keep the tile wet with the sugar water for at least two hours. After this dwell time is complete, use a new Dobie nylon scrub pad and scrub a small area.

You should see instant results. It may take more than one application of sugar water to completely remove the grout film.

Release Agents

The matte finish tiles, slate, and other delicate ceramic products need to be pre-treated before they are grouted. Years ago different tile manufacturers recommend things like oil soap and other temporary coating products.

But a new industry sprouted as more and more matte finish tiles came to market.

You can buy an assortment of grout release agents. These are very cool liquid products that you wipe or brush onto tile after it has been installed.

grout release agent in bottle

Here's a wonderful grout release product that can save your bacon if you're a rookie DIY tile installer. CLICK THE IMAGE NOW TO BUY THIS GREAT PRODUCT.

The coating temporarily seals the porous tile surface. You then grout and as you remove the grout and film, the grout release agent comes off at the same time. They do a superb job of making grouting jobs virtually trouble free.

Be sure to read the label and match the grout release agent to the material you are working with. Certain tiles and stone products require special grout release agents!

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local tile setters who are experts at cleaning off excess tile grout.

Clean Up Tools

To remove a grout haze from tile you need to be careful. You don't want to damage the tile surface.

I've successfully done this using a generous amount of water that acts as a lubricant and synthetic fiber scouring pads.

Scotch Brite pads

These are common Scotch-Brite pads. But these happen to be HEAVY DUTY and are the best to use for cleaning up excess grout. CLICK THE IMAGE NOW TO HAVE THEM DELIVERED TO YOUR HOME.

I've had good results from the Scotch Brite pads. These are the deep green pads that are about 1/4 inch thick.

The ceramic tile specialty stores often sell a similar pad called a Doodlebug. These cleaning pads are also superb.

Do A Test

When you start to clean up excess grout, start in an out-of-the-way place and do a small 2-foot by 2-foot test area.

You'll hone your skills here.

Keep in mind that you must stop and check your progress from time to time. Rinse the slop water and use paper towels to dry the tile to see if you're making progress.

No Metal

Don't ever use a metal putty knife, or similar tool, to scrape hard grout deposits. The metal can permanently mar the surface of the tile.

It's much better to use a piece of wood that has a nice square cut on it. A paint stirring stick is not a bad tool to try. If you have access to oak cut a piece to use. Oak is the common wood used to make the slats of a shipping pallet.

Avoid Acid

Think hard before using acid to remove grout mistakes. If you do, always get the tile slightly wet before applying the acid solution. Acid can also affect tile color!

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local tile setters who are experts at cleaning off excess tile grout.

Column B390

Outdoor Wood Furniture Sealer

Posted on by Tim Carter
Caring for Outdoor Wood Furniture

This table was cleaned with Stain Solver oxygen bleach. The two end panels are bare wood while the center panel has two coats of a synthetic resin water repellent. CLICK HERE to get access to the BEST outdoor furniture sealer. Copyright 2017 Tim Carter

Outdoor Wood Furniture Sealer TIPS

DEAR TIM: My outdoor wood furniture has weathered to a mottled gray and there is mildew covering it. My wife has informed me that I must make it look like new.

If I do a good enough job, I've been told I can then refinish the kid's play set. What's the best way to get the wood looking like new?

How should I clean it? What's the best sealer to use?

If you were doing this job, what secret tips can you offer to get the best results in the shortest amount of time? Steve P., Mannassas, VA

DEAR STEVE: It's just as important to keep your better half happy as it is to clean and protect outdoor wood furniture.

Marriage Epoxy

I urge you to maintain a positive attitude through this entire project. I've been married since 1974 to the same wonderful woman and have discovered that keeping her happy completing projects is some of the glue that holds our marriage together.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local contractors that clean and seal outdoor wood.

Outdoor Wood All The Same

Cleaning and sealing any outdoor wood is not much different than doing the same thing for a wood deck. Outdoor wood tables, chairs, fencing, wood play sets, arbors, etc. all take the same abuse from Mother Nature.

No Care = Cracks & Rot

If you fail to maintain outdoor wood it will eventually rot and crack to pieces. Chemically treated lumber used to be marketed saying it would resist rot for decades. It turns out this is not true.

treated lumber wood rot

This is a treated lumber post that's been well cared for. I know the homeowner. It's been regularly sealed yet it still rotted out! Copyright 2017 Tim Carter

Natural Preservatives

Some wood like redwood, cedar, teak and other hardwoods contain varying degrees of natural wood preservatives. But water that soaks into all these wood species will cause them to crack and rot over time.

Check Cracks

The cracks start out as tiny checking cracks. Water entering the wood causes it to expand. As it dries, it contracts.

This movement creates the tiny cracks. If water gets into the cracks, it soaks deeper into the wood causing even greater expansion and contraction forces that cause the cracks to get deeper and wider.

Stop Water - Stop Cracks

You can see why it's important to treat all wood with a water repellent on a regular basis to prevent water from getting into the wood. Do this every other year or so and your outdoor furniture and play set will look fantastic instead of resembling a 50-year-old fishing pier.

Clean With Stain Solver

Oxygen Bleach

Stain Solver is MADE in the USA with USA ingredients that are food-grade quality. CLICK THE IMAGE to order some NOW.

I prefer to clean outdoor wood with Stain Solver certified organic oxygen bleach.

Stain Solver is made in the USA with USA ingredients. The active ingredient, sodium percarbonate, is made with food-grade-quality ingredients.

You mix the pure powder with warm water, stir until its dissolved and then brush or spray it onto the outdoor wood. It will begin to bubble and foam as the oxygen ions attack mold, mildew, algae, sun-damage old sealers and dirt.

It's best to work in the shade and keep the wood wet with the solution for 15-30 minutes. After that lightly scrub, rinse with clear water and the wood will look like new.

Don't use oxygen bleach on redwood as it can darken this wood species. Use oxalic acid to clean redwood.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local contractors that clean and seal outdoor wood.

Pressure Washers DESTROY Wood

Do not use a pressure washer to clean outdoor wood. It absolutely will damage the wood. The high-pressure stream of water erodes the softer lighter colored bands of spring wood that are found between the darker bands of summer wood grain.

Sand Raised Grain

Allow the wood to dry well after it's clean. The washing process almost always raises the grain of the wood.

This means you'll have to sand it to get it back to that smooth furniture finish. Don't skip this important step.

Palm Sander

A palm sander works great for this project. This is an affordable power tool that works similar to a vibrating hair trimmer a barber might use to cut your hair.

palm sander

This is a marvelous brand-name palm sander at a great price. It's made to take a 1/4 sheet of ordinary sandpaper so there's no waste. CLICK THE IMAGE NOW TO ORDER IT.

Use a medium aluminum oxide sandpaper. This paper self sharpens itself as it's being used.

sandpaper

Here's an assorted pack of aluminum oxide sandpaper that will do a great job on soft wood. CLICK THE IMAGE TO ORDER IT NOW.

Synthetic Resin Sealer

Once the wood is sanded, you should seal it with a pigmented synthetic resin water repellent. Don't use an oil-based product.

Most oil-based sealers are food for mildew and algae. The manufacturers place mildewcides and algecides in the products to slow down the growth, but water and sun break down these chemicals.

Outdoor Wood Sealer Test Results

I did an extended test on many outdoor wood sealers and water repellents. The results were shocking. CLICK HERE to get the results of the test showing which sealer performed the BEST.

wood sealer test results

These are four pieces of wood that were part of my extended outdoor wood sealer test. All four were coated with the same sealer. The two pieces on the left are cedar and the two smaller pieces are treated lumber. The dark gray, nearly black, piece was only out in the weather for four months. The piece to the right is what it looked like BEFORE it was put out in the sun and water!!! CLICK THE IMAGE above to get access to the full test results. Copyright 2017 Tim Carter

Colored Pigment = Sun Screen

The pigmented, or colored sealers, will keep the furniture looking spectacular. The pigment acts as a sun screen blocking the sun's ultraviolet (UV) light from turning the wood gray. Clear sealers will gray rapidly.

IMPORTANT TIP: I urge you to work in the shade when applying the sealers. Some sealers require you to apply two coats within 15 minutes of each other to get maximum protection.

Shade = Best Results

Working in direct sunlight can shorten this time dramatically leading to ugly spotting and overlaps.

Working in the shade is easier on you, the wood and the sealer. If you can move the furniture inside your garage or other covered work area, do so.

I realize this is impossible for the play set, so choose to work on an overcast day if possible.

Detailed Work

Staining and sealing outdoor furniture is quite different than sealing a deck. It requires a fine touch so your brush strokes are not seen and you don't create any overlap marks.

Wet Edge Is Everything

You have to maintain a wet edge with the sealer. This means you stain each individual piece of wood completely never stopping until you reach the end of that piece of wood or it intersects with another piece of wood.

Failure to do this can result in very unattractive overlaps where the color of the sealer seems darker at the overlap area. If you allow the sealer to dry and then coat over it with a second coat, you get double the color pigment in the overlap area.

Applying Wood Sealers Video

Watch this quick video to see how I applied different wood sealers to start my first independent test years ago. I did a second more detailed test a few years after making this video. I was working in the sun here, but it's okay because I knew I'd have different sealers on the same piece of wood.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local contractors that clean and seal outdoor wood.

Column 937

How to Clean Grout

Posted on by Tim Carter
Dirty grout

Here is some gross tile grout in my own kitchen. My kids constantly spilled iced tea here. The actual grout color is a light gray. Look at the next photo to see the magic of oxygen bleach. ©2017 Tim Carter

How to Clean Grout TIPS

DEAR TIM: I've spent hours looking on the Internet for products to clean my floor tile grout. There seems to be lots of different answers at chat rooms and online forums about using chlorine bleach, baking soda, vinegar, peroxide, etc.

My grout is colored and I don't want to harm it. I also don't want to spend lots of time scrubbing.

Is there an easy way to clean floor tile grout? Is there a product that's non-toxic and doesn't produce fumes? Rose C., Dallas, TX

DEAR ROSE: Every now and then I lurk in some of the Internet home improvement forums and chat rooms to see what type of bad advice is floating to the surface at any given point in time.

Bad Advice Is Everywhere

I'm constantly amazed at how much bad advice is readily available. In fact, some of the advice is downright dangerous, especially when some people talk about blending household chemicals together to make a witch's brew of cleaning solution.

I often wonder if some of the advice posts are malicious in nature. There are people in this world who are pranksters and bullies and get great satisfaction from giving advice that can create mayhem and pain.

Toxic Harsh Chemicals

Some of the chemicals you discovered in your search will work, but not the way you want them to. Fumes can be released that choke you or your loved ones.

Other chemicals simply don't do a great job of cleaning and are a waste of time and money.

Chlorine Bleach = BAD

Chlorine bleach is a powerful oxidizer that can remove stains in floor tile grout. But it can also remove color.

Chlorine bleach can damage nearby fabrics and rugs if it is accidentally applied to them. As you know, the fumes from chlorine bleach are highly irritating to many people and any pets you might have around your home.

Bird-Killing Chemical

These fumes can be deadly to small birds as well. If you have canaries or parakeets in your home chirping away, you may find them motionless on the bottom of the cage if you release chlorine bleach fumes in your home.

Baking Soda + Vinegar = NOTHING

If you've stumbled across advice that tells you to mix baking soda and vinegar into a solution with water, you've found someone who skipped going to their high school chemistry class. Mixing those two together yields nothing. The baking soda neutralizes the weak acid in the vinegar.

Baking Soda = A Joke

I've never had any luck with baking soda. If you mix it with water you just have a solution that's a mild base. It's alkaline like regular soap and it just doesn't do much at all to blast apart stain molecules

Vinegar Is For Hard Water

Vinegar only works well to dissolve hard water deposits that might buildup around sinks and dishwashers. Vinegar is not an effective floor tile grout cleaner.

If you feel compelled to try vinegar, and it's a complete waste of time and money, only use white vinegar as its fumes are far less offensive that apple-cider vinegar.

Liquid Peroxide

The peroxide you mention is probably common liquid hydrogen peroxide. It can be an effective cleaner, but only if you can get the peroxide to release one of its extra oxygen ions. Plus, it's out-of-this-world EXPENSIVE.

IMPORTANT TIP: The 2017 price for a gallon of food-grade hydrogen peroxide was $52! CLICK HERE to check the current price.

This is not always easy to do. Hydrogen peroxide has two atoms of hydrogen and two atoms of oxygen. If you can get it to release one of the oxygen ions, you get a free oxygen ion and regular water.

Stain Solver - The Miracle Grout Cleaner!

Oxygen Bleach

Stain Solver is MADE in the USA with USA ingredients that are food-grade quality. CLICK THE IMAGE to order some NOW.

Stain Solver is a certified organic oxygen bleach powder.  Stain Solver is Made in the USA with USA ingredients.

It's a magic dried form of hydrogen peroxide that's very inexpensive when compared to liquid hydrogen peroxide.

A handy 4.5-pound container of powdered Stain Solver creates 20 gallons of floor-grout cleaning solution.

The current cost of 4.5 pounds of Stain Solver is less than one gallon of liquid hydrogen peroxide!

You spend less money and get over 20 TIMES the amount of cleaning liquid!

How Stain Solver Works

When you mix the Stain Solver powder with water, it releases billions of microscopic oxygen ions into the non-toxic no-odor cleaning solution.

The free oxygen ion is a powerful stain remover as it acts much like a torpedo or a cruise missile to attack and split apart stain molecules. Once a stain molecule is split apart, the stain disappears.

Stain Solver & Floor Grout Video

Watch how easy it is to use Stain Solver to clean dirty floor grout. CAUTION: I guarantee you'll order some immediately after watching the video.

Apply to Dry Grout

It's best to apply the Stain Solver to dry grout. As the solution is applied to the floor, it soaks deeply into the grout and starts to blast apart all of the stain molecules.

The best part is there are no fumes and the oxygen ions will not harm the color in the grout. The solution will not harm any adjacent carpets or fabrics.

Longer Dwell Time = Less Scrubbing

When you work with cleaning solutions, you often get the best results if you allow the chemical to work on its own. This is called dwell time because you want the chemical to linger or soak on the item being cleaned.

When cleaning floor grout, I'd allow the Stain Solver solution to dwell at least fifteen minutes, and maybe longer. The longer you allow the Stain Solver solution to soak into the grout the less you have to scrub. The countless oxygen ions are down in the grout working for you.

Stiff Scrub Brush

When cleaning floor grout, you just need to use a scrub brush that's got stiff bristles and the bristles need to contact the grout.

Some ceramic tile has grout joints that are recessed below the surface of the tile. If you don't press hard enough, the brush never contacts the grout. Don't allow that to happen.

Never Scrub Again!

Once your floor grout is clean, you can do a simple thing so you NEVER AGAIN have to be on your hands and knees scrubbing a floor!

All you have to do is add Stain Solver powder to your mop water each time you clean the floor. Throw away that useless pad cleaner that really doesn't work well.

Get an old fashioned string mop and mop your floor. Get the mop water to saturate the grout and allow it to dwell for about five minutes.

Come back and rinse the floor and the grout should look like new each week.

before & after grout cleaning

Here is a before and after of the same tile. I left some of the grout untouched by the solution of oxygen bleach. Look at the gray grout! It looks new and the entire process took ten minutes. ©2017 Tim Carter

Weak Oxygen Bleach

Not all oxygen bleach powders are the same. The best ones are:

  • certified organic
  • made in the USA with USA ingredients
  • highly concentrated with active ingredient
  • active ingredient is FDA registered food-grade quality
  • contains no fragrances or colored useless crystals

Stain Solver meets all those above specifications. Just about every other powdered oxygen bleach available in the USA contains ingredients that were sourced offshore.

Beware Made in the USA Label

I believe laws have been passed that allow some companies to trick you. You may see a label that says: Made in the USA.

What it really means is that the product may have been assembled or packaged in the USA, but the ingredients come from some other non-USA country.

Remember, Stain Solver is Made in the USA and the two ingredients are made in the USA as well. The active ingredient is made in Houston, TX and the pure, natural soda ash comes from a mine in Wyoming.

Homeowner Testimonial

"WOW, that's all I can say! I purchased your product last week to clean the grout on my 800 sq. ft. of tile, and it looks as clean as the day we moved in eight years ago. I must admit, I was a little skeptical when I ordered the Stain Solver, but after having used it, I know I will always have some on hand and look forward to cleaning my wood deck this spring. This is by far one of the best products I have purchased in many, many years. Thanks Tim!" - Ed, Macomb, Michigan

How Stain Solver Was Born

I discovered oxygen bleach in the mid 1990's. I was doing research for deck cleaners.

One night, I had dinner with Jef Morgan, a chemist of a company that distributed American-made oxygen bleach. We talked about how well it worked to clean wood.

I then asked, "Tell me, can you clean anything else with oxygen bleach?" Well, the flood gates opened.

For the next hour, Jef told me about everything it could clean; clothing, rugs, roof shingles, patio furniture, and tile grout.

CLICK HERE to see actual homeowner Before and After photos of all the things Stain Solver can clean.

Three Friend Testers

I was so intrigued I started to test this product. It did everything Jef said it would and more. I then gave some to three friends and had them try it.

It appeared to be a true miracle product. I was so impressed and felt so good about this wonder material I actually started to sell it under the registered name Stain Solver.

Full Transparency

This column is not meant to be self-serving. The woman who asked the question lives in Dallas and is not a friend or relative. There are other companies that sell very powerful and high-quality oxygen bleach. If you want the best product that indeed is the most powerful, then look for the one that costs the most per pound. These are the ones that have the most amount of active ingredient in them.

Column 531

Hardwood Floor Installation

Posted on by Tim Carter

Hardwood floor installation | It's complex and there are lots of things you need to know. A straight piece of hardwood flooring can be used as a straightedge to find low spots in the sub-flooring. ©2021 Tim Carter

Hardwood Floor Installation TIPS

DEAR TIM: I am thinking about hardwood floor installation. The hardwood flooring I want to use is the traditional tongue and groove 3/4-inch thick hardwood lumber

I own many different power saws and other carpentry tools. Do you think I can achieve nearly professional results as I try to install the hardwood flooring?

What tips can you share to help me get professional results at do-it-yourself prices? Bob K., St. John's, Newfoundland CA

DEAR BOB: Since I don't know the level of your carpentry skills, I am going to say maybe.

Is it Easy To Install Hardwood Flooring?

The truth is it's hard to install traditional strip hardwood flooring. Don't believe for a minute what you see on the false-flag cable or streaming-TV shows. If you want to discover more about hardwood floors, you should really read my other column.

The traditional hardwood floor installation process is not that difficult, but the many different tricks and tips are what separate professional installers from those who aspire to have their years of accumulated knowledge.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local hardwood flooring contractors.

Do you Need Specialized Tools?

Your collection of saws and other carpentry tools will come in handy, but realize that professional hardwood flooring installers come to the job with an arsenal of assorted hand and power tools.

They have special nailing machines, some pneumatically powered, that drive special barbed nails at the precise angle and depth through the tongue of each strip of hardwood flooring.

You can hand nail hardwood flooring, but I'm sure you'll make a mistake or two, and your results will be less than professional. The special nail guns can be rented.

And if you’re interested in learning more about hardwood flooring costs I have an article here.

AsktheBuilder Podcast

CLICK this image and listen to the first call on the podcast. I talked to Jill about how to repair wood kitchen flooring, and possibly installing an inlay border as an option. Copyright 2018 Tim Carter

Can You Reverse the Direction of the Tongues?

Yes, you can reverse the run of the strip flooring. You can butt two groove ends together and interlock them with a special double-sided tongue insert.

You may also need a router equipped with a special bit. It is not uncommon for a professional to rip a piece of hardwood flooring to make it fit against an existing piece. To make the hardwood flooring pieces interlock, a new groove has to be created on the cut edge of hardwood.

Is it Necessary to Acclimate the Hardwood?

Yes, it's absolutely necessary to acclimate the hardwood. Failure to do this will lead to all sorts of severe issues including wide gaps, cracks, and edge-crushing.

The first thing you need to do before you start the job is get the hardwood flooring into your home and let it acclimate to the indoor humidity and temperature. Although this acclimation period can be achieved in three or four days, I recommend you bring the hardwood flooring into your home for a minimum of two weeks for the best results.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local hardwood flooring contractors.

Can You Acclimate Any Time of Year?

Yes, it doesn't matter the time of year. What matters is that the inside of the house where the wood is being acclimated in the actual rooms where it's to be installed is the exact temperature and humidity it will be when you live there.

This means in the winter, you need the house warm and if it's summer, you have to have the air conditioner running if you will be using AC when you live in the house.

Where Do I Acclimate the Hardwood?

Put the wood into the actual room where it will be installed if at all possible. Be sure that room is at the temperature it will be at once the room is finished.

The longer you let the wood acclimate, the tighter the joints will be as it is installed, and, more importantly, after the hardwood is finished. Hardwood flooring is a hygroscopic material, and it changes shape and size with changes in temperature and humidity.

How Smooth Should the Subfloor Be?

The subfloor to which the hardwood flooring is attached should be clean, dust-free and securely attached to the floor joists. Now is the time to attack any pesky floor squeaks.

Most floor squeaks can be traced to loose sub-flooring that moves up and down as it's walked upon. The movement of the wood along the nail shafts creates the squeak.

Screw down the existing subfloor to the floor joists, especially in areas of the floor where you will walk once the hardwood is installed. Those areas covered with furniture may not be as important, but I would suggest you screw down the entire subfloor to the joists.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local hardwood flooring contractors.

Eliminate Floor Squeak Video

Watch this video to see how to eliminate most floor squeaks.

How Do I Locate Humps and Dips in the Subfloor?

Use a long metal straightedge to locate humps and low spots in the floor. The low spots should be filled in with floor leveling compound or better yet, asphalt shingles.

Here's a precision straightedge. Don't get a cheap one. You'll regret it. CLICK HERE TO HAVE IT DELIVERED TO YOUR HOME FAST.

A flashlight really helps here. If you shine the light at a low angle or put the flashlight on the floor aimed at the straightedge you can see where light leaks under the tool.

Do I Need Felt Paper Under the Hardwood?

If the low spots are very subtle, multiple layers of asphalt-saturated felt paper will work well. The entire subfloor should have a minimum of one layer of asphalt-saturated felt paper over it to protect the underside of the new hardwood flooring from water vapor that may try to work its way through the subfloor.

The felt paper also helps keep the new hardwood floor quiet.

This air-powered nailer drives special nails through the tongue of the hardwood flooring. ©2021 Tim Carter

Should the Hardwood Flooring Run Perpendicular to Joists?

Whenever possible, the new hardwood flooring strips should be installed perpendicular to the run of the floor joists.

For a creative look, you can run the new hardwood flooring diagonally across the floor joists. Running the flooring diagonally is more work, and will require slightly more material.

Should the Butt Joints Be Random?

Be sure to install the strips of hardwood flooring in a random manner. Regular hardwood strip flooring has tongue and grooves on all four edges.

This means you don't have to worry about having a seam where two pieces of flooring meet break in the center of a floor joist below.

Don't try to get fancy with respect to how the different pieces look. The bundles of hardwood flooring come mixed with all sorts of long, short and medium lengths. The more random the pieces are installed, the better the finished hardwood floor will look.

How Do You Minimize Waste?

You minimize waste by using the cutoff end piece of one row to start the next new row. Whatever you cut off one piece up against a wall, the leftover piece is used to start the next row. There's usually very little waste wood flooring because of this clever trick.

Is a Rubber Mallet A Must?

A rubber mallet is used by professionals to pound the new strips of flooring into place against the flooring already nailed to the floor. Each strip of new flooring needs to be tight along the long edge and the short edge where it butts against the piece next to it.

This is a standard rubber mallet. Nothing fancy here. CLICK on THE IMAGE NOW TO HAVE IT DELIVERED TO YOUR HOUSE.

You'll notice that the tongue and groove feature of each piece of hardwood flooring not only is along the long edges, but also on the short stubby ends of each strip.

Is it Easy to Reverse Direction?

Yes, it's easy to reverse the direction of hardwood flooring. One of the most secret tips is reversing the direction of the tongues and grooves. Professional installers don't always start laying a floor on one wall and work to the far wall. They may start in the middle of the room for any number of reasons.

When this happens, a special strip of wood that is the thickness of the tongue but twice as wide, is installed into the groove of the flooring.

This strip of wood allows the installer to start laying hardwood flooring going the opposite direction so the tongues of the strips are always exposed. The tongues of each strip of hardwood flooring must be exposed so you can nail the hardwood flooring to the subfloor.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local hardwood flooring contractors.

Column 655

Exhaust Fans for Kitchen and Bath

Posted on by Tim Carter

Kitchen & Bath Exhaust Fan TIPS

Man-Made Indoor Pollution

Indoor air pollution is real! All you have to do is stand in my kitchen on a Sunday morning when I cook breakfast for my family.

There's smoke everywhere. What's worse is in the smoke is vaporized grease that coats everything in the kitchen.

In fact, the EPA has instructed me to install scrubbers on my kitchen exhaust stack. Evidently the people in my neighborhood downwind from me are complaining.

Pesky Problem

Seriously, cooking, bathing and sanitation activities create airborne pollutants that should be exhausted to the exterior of your home. This is especially true if you live in a modern airtight home.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local fan contractors that can install great ventilation fans in your home.

Vegetable Soup

I'm reminded of how things linger in the air every winter when my wife cooks my favorite vegetable soup. When I open the door and walk into the house after being gone all day, I'm hit with a wave of aroma.

The tasty vapors of vegetable goodness are suspended in the air of the house. The furnace, each time it operates, spreads all of the aroma molecules throughout the house.

The aroma lingers in the house for days.

That's OK for vegetable soup, but not so good for the greasy bacon smoke I produce on Sundays!

Minimum Standards

Certain rooms of your home require different ventilation expectations. Kitchens need more ventilation than any room in the house. Bathrooms need about half the ventilation that kitchens require.

It's all about replacing the air inside a room so many times an hour.

15 & 8

The Home Ventilating Institute recommends that the air in your kitchen should be replaced fifteen times per hour. That means every four minutes all the air in the room needs to be replaced by new air.

Bathrooms require a minimum of eight air changes per hour. Other rooms, such as laundry, family room and basements require a minimum of six air changes per hour.

Minimum Standards

Note these recommendations are minimum standards. If you want to ventilate more, feel free to do so. Commercial buildings have much more aggressive standards than a home if you want to really go nuts with new air.

Replacement Air

All too often people install exhaust fan systems without any thought as to replacement air. Replacement or makeup air is the air which must enter your house to replace the air you are exhausting.

If you didn't do this, your house might implode. Just kidding! However, problems can arise, especially if you live in a modern airtight house.

Path Of Least Resistance

If you don't provide for adequate makeup air, your fan will satisfy the pressure difference by sucking air from unwanted locations.

For example, you may turn on that new high-powered exhaust fan and draw furnace or hot water fumes right back down your chimney! This is called backdrafting.

IMPORTANT TIP: This backdrafting can be a serious issue and you should be sure you're not creating a problem at your home. If you draw furnace or water heater exhaust air back down a chimney, you could cause serious carbon monoxide poisoning in your home.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local fan contractors that can install great ventilation fans in your home.

Thanksgiving Ash Storm

Many many years ago, I made a fool of myself one Thanksgiving at my sister's house demonstrating this phenomenon by mistake. For some reason, I decided to turn on her whole house fan.

These are powerful exhaust fans. Since it was cold outside and all the windows were closed, the fan decided to get its makeup air from the path of least resistance. That happened to be the fireplace chimney.

It just so happened that a fire was in progress. Smoke and ashes were sucked into the dining room! What an idiot I was!

Air Duct Hood

You can provide for makeup air in many ways. Some companies make nifty devices that you can install in a side wall to provide for this purpose.

Here's a great example of a simple and affordable fresh-air vent:

fresh air intake

This fresh-air intake vent will do a great job. You may need several to get enough air indoors to satisfy all fuel-burning appliances. Pipe them with solid 4-inch metal pipe. CLICK THE IMAGE TO ORDER THIS VENT NOW.

You can also make your own like I did. I simply cut a slot in the side of my band board (floor rim joist on top of foundation) and covered it with a screened air register cover.

Fresh Air Vent Video

Watch this video to see a unique fresh-air supply vent.

Two Types of Systems

There are two basic types of ventilating systems: point of use and centralized or remote. Most people are familiar with the point-of-use fans. These fans ventilate a specific room or area.

Most kitchen range hoods or bath fans work this way. They have a motor in the fan housing (or it is sometimes in the wall or at the end of the duct run). This fan motor spins and exhausts that area.

Remote Fan

Other systems are available that work like my central vacuum cleaner. In these setups, there's a centralized exhaust motor and fan located in a remote location. When turned on, it sucks the air out of every room that's equipped with a suction duct.

Watch this video about a remote bathroom fan system I had in my last home:

I installed this type of bathroom exhaust fan in the last house I built for my family. One advantage with the remote fan is it's so much quieter.

bath exhaust fan

Here's a typical Fantech bath exhaust fan setup. The odd cone-shaped metal thing is the fan. The two boxes that have the round white covers are place up in the ceiling joists of the bathrooms. All you see are the sleek round white covers. They come with and without lights! I LOVED these in my last house. CLICK THE IMAGE TO BUY the SET NOW.

Exhaust Through Roof
I've found that it's often best to vent fans and dryers through the roof. The only places this doesn't make great sense are places where the snow buildup on roof could block the exhaust coming from the fan.

Roof Exhaust Flashing Video

Watch this video to see how to install a roof exhaust flashing and never have a leak.

Never In The Attic!

In many instances, the air from exhaust fans goes to the wrong place. I've seen both kitchen and bathroom exhaust fans that simply discharge the air into an attic space.

This is a huge mistake.

IMPORTANT TIP: In the case of a kitchen exhaust fan, this practice represents a major fire hazard. If you have a fire develop on your stove while the fan is on, the flames and fire are SUCKED UP into the attic BY THE FAN!

The moving air INCREASES THE INTENSITY of the fire. If the duct and the roof rafters, etc. are greasy the fire will spread quickly. The fan actually begins to operate like a blow torch.

Attic Mold & Mildew

Bathroom and kitchen exhaust fans also can transmit large volumes of moist humid air into the attic or other confined spaces. This can lead to wood rot, mold and mildew.

The trick is to simply exhaust this air from the fans directly to the exterior of your home. Every major fan manufacturer makes special termination "caps" that attach to the final piece of ductwork. These caps can be installed in a roof, sidewall or a soffit.

Correct Duct Size

The fan that you purchase has only so much power. It is often rated as so many cubic feet per minute (CFM) at a given static pressure. Static pressure is a concern.

Static pressure is a measurement of the power of the fan. In other words, if two fans are rated at the same CFM but list different static pressures, the fan with the higher static pressure rating will be more powerful.

Air Isn't Weightless

The concept of static pressure is really quite easy. Think of the fan and duct assembly just before the fan turns on.

Between the fan blades and the exterior of your home (end of the duct) lies a volume of air (the calm air in the exhaust duct). This duct may be short, long or have a number of bends.

The more air that is in this system, the greater the load (static pressure) on the fan. If there's too much air to push, the fan blade will simply sit there and spin.

Follow Instructions!

This is why you must follow the manufacturers instructions regarding duct size, total length of duct, number of bends in the duct pipe, etc.

If you decide to become an amateur mechanical engineer when installing your system and guess at how to install the duct piping, don't complain to me or the manufacturer if your fan doesn't seem to work.

Do It Right, Not Over!

Exhaust fans will help you to maintain a great indoor environment. You just need to select the proper sized fan, install it correctly and provide for some makeup air. Sounds too tough? Not really.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local fan contractors that can install great ventilation fans in your home.

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