Tape Measure Markings

Posted on by Tim Carter

 

various tape measures

Here are several tape measures. You can see the vast difference in markings. Some are easier to read than others! Photo credit: Tim Carter

Tape measure markings are black lines that represent fractions of an inch. The length of the line gives you a clue as to the fraction. Special markings are for different on-center measurements.

Revised February 2018

Tape Measure Markings TIPS

DEAR TIM: I'm just starting to get into building and remodeling as a do-it-yourselfer. Now that I'm using a tape measure, I'm having some difficulty.

Perhaps I should have paid more attention in math class in school. Can you tell me about the markings on tape measures, what they mean and about all the special markings?

Also, every tape measure I have and see in the store seems to be defective. The hook on the end is loose on all the tapes. The manufacturer is not tightening the rivets enough. What other tips do you have about using tape measures? Craig S., Billings, MT

Related Links

Measuring Using a Builders Transit Level - Cool Tool VIDEO!

Laser Level Measures Automagically - One Person Is All You Need - GREAT VIDEO

Free & Fast Bids

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local carpenters if you still can't figure out a tape measure.

DEAR CRAIG: I've got some sobering news for you. As you delve deeper into building and remodeling, you're going to really regret not paying more attention in all your math classes, especially geometry.

Math skills are very important. Fortunately, it's never too late to master mathematics. If you possess the passion to build and remodel, you'll get up on the math learning curve very fast.

Tape Measures Look Alike But Differences

I've been using tape measures for so many years that I've had the great fortune to see some that are worthless and others that are marvelous tools.

The best thing is in the past few years I've seen more improvements in tape measures than I've seen in the previous thirty-five years combined! It's hard to believe you could improve a tape measure, but believe me a few companies have really done an amazing job.

Fractions And Line Length

First, let's discuss the common markings on a tape measure. Most tape measures I use in carpentry and building have black lines at a 90-degree angle to the edge of the tape measure in between each of the inch markings.

These lines are different lengths to help you differentiate between them and to help you understand what they mean.

Tape Measure Close-up

Look closely at the tape at the bottom. See the markings to the left of the 6-inch mark? Those are 32nds of an inch!

The longest of these black lines indicates the halfway point between each inch. It's the half-inch mark. So if you want to cut a board 3 and ½ inches wide, you'd make a crisp pencil mark on the board at the longest line in between the 3 and 4-inch markings on the tape measure.

Tape Measure Markings Video

Watch this video made around the year 2004, that's still relevant today! My voice has changed!!!

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local carpenters if you still can't figure out a tape measure.

1/4-Inch Mark

The next longest lines on the edge are the quarter-inch markings. Since the half-inch mark is longer than these, it overlaps one of these three markings in between each of the primary inch marks.

If you start at the 1-inch mark and count the quarter-inch markings, including the half-inch mark, you'll discover you get to four when you finally get to the 2-inch mark. Thus, these marking divide 1 inch of length into four equal parts, each one-quarter inch long.

klein-tools-tape

This is the great tape measure I have that has the fractions marked on it if you need help. It's VERY EASY on the eyes. CLICK THE IMAGE NOW TO ORDER ONE.

1/8-Inch Mark

The same is true for the next two smaller markings on the tape measure. The next smaller line below the quarter-inch mark is for one-eighth, and the shortest line represents the one-sixteenth-inch mark.

Friendly Tape Measure With Fractions Marked

I realize this may be confusing, but fractions are the standard we use here in the USA. To make this easy for you, some tape measures along one side of the tape measure have the actual measurement called out by each line. I have a tape measuretape measure marks on my desk that has 1/8, 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 5/8, 3/4, and 7/8 fractions right above each line! You may want to invest in this tool.

tape measure markings

If you can't remember fractions, some tapes call them out for you.

Point Of No Return

Some tape measures have markings that divide each inch into 32nds of an inch. You'll discover the markings are so fine and close together that it's tough to determine where you are. Most tapes that have this only do it for the first few inches on the tool.

16-Inch Spacing

As you extend the tape measure, you'll probably see the numbers 16, 32, 48, 64, 80, 96, etc. in red. The red indicates 16-inch-on-center spacing.

This is a common framing spacing for wall studs, floor joists and common roof rafters. If you decide to space framing at 24-inch centers, the red marks will be at every other foot marking on the tape measure.

Tape Measure Markings Mystery Black Diamond  ♦

Many people wonder about the mystical small black diamond markings or black triangles found at 19 and 3/8 intervals on the tape measure. These are handy markings if you want to achieve equal spacing for five framing members per every 8 feet.

If you decide to use 16-inch-on center spacing, you'll end up with six framing members for every 8 feet. If you space things at 24-inch centers, you'll have four framing members for each 8 feet. Some carpenters like to have five framing members per every 8 feet so the sheathing over the framing is less spongy and stiffer.

Hook Slop

The hook end of your tape measure is supposed to wiggle a little bit. That's not a defect. The amount of movement should equal the thickness of the hook end of the tape measure.

This is done so you get an accurate measurement when you're trying to determine the exact measurement in between two fixed objects.

When you get the measurement pushing the tape hard in between the objects and then take the tape and pull it across the board, the movement of the hook will produce the correct measurement. If the hook doesn't move, you'll discover your cut piece will always be too short.

IMPORTANT USE TIPS:

The top tips for tape measures are simple. Keep them clean and free of debris. When retracting a tape measure slow it down so the hook doesn't come to an abrupt stop.

Check the hook end of the tape measure before working to ensure it's at a 90-degree angle to the actual metal tape. If you drop the tape and the hook gets bent, you'll discover you'll be getting inaccurate cuts if someone else is giving you measurements!

What happens if the hook isn't kept clean? Well, errors happen! Read about my issue in the August 9, 2009 Newsletter! Oops!

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local carpenters if you still can't figure out a tape measure.

Column 1065

 
 

The above is an affiliate link. I get a tiny commission if you purchase this item from Amazon.

Featured: January 29, 2017 AsktheBuilder Newsletter.

Mold and Mildew on Lumber

Posted on by Tim Carter
mold and mildew

The horizontal collar tie under the roof rafters is black with mold and mildew. Stain Solver oxygen bleach will remove it with ease. CLICK THE PHOTO now to order Stain Solver. © 2017 Tim Carter

Mold & Mildew on Lumber TIPS

DEAR TIM: I'm having a new room addition built and while inspecting the framing lumber I noticed black mildew and mold on different pieces of wood. One joist is totally black with it. Is the structural integrity of the wood compromised? Should the lumber be replaced? What causes this to happen as some of the lumber looks perfect? What's a sensible course of action at this point? Tracy K., Chicago, IL

DEAR TRACY: You're not alone. Many homeowners experience mold and mildew on their lumber as houses are built or room additions are constructed. The good news is the lumber is going to be fine and there's rarely any damage to the wood. If it's just surface mildew, it will clean off using a certified organic oxygen bleach like Stain Solver.

Wood rot can weaken wood, but it's easy to tell if wood is rotten. What's more, wood will not rot in the short time it takes to build a new home or room addition. It typically takes years for wood rot to advance.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local cleaning companies that can remove mold and mildew.

Any Lumber Anytime

There are many reasons why the black mildew and mold appeared on the lumber. Understand that it can happen to just about any lumber any time.

Lumber that's treated with chemicals that contain copper or borates are less susceptible to mold and mildew growth because these elements and chemical compounds are natural biocides. But mold and mildew can, and does, grow on treated lumber.

Spores Everywhere

The mold and mildew spores are just about everywhere. They're on the wood surfaces or can be transported there by wind and rain. Once in place, all they need is water to start growing and flourishing.

Sugar aerosols broadcast by trees and bushes is food for mildew. Dust is also a food. It's nearly impossible to keep the lumber clean as you build. Some lumber provides plenty of food for the mold and mildew to grow rapidly.

Mildew Within 48 Hours

When you see the black mold cover wide areas of lumber, usually this happens because the wood got wet and stayed wet while it was being stored. If it's warm and humid, the growth of the mold and mildew can be rapid.

Mildew can start to grow in as little as 48 hours if conditions are favorable.

Construction Food & Drink

Spotty outbreaks can sometimes be traced to food or liquids that are food for mildew or mold. For instance, if you shake up a bottle of soda containing sugar or high fructose corn syrup and spray it randomly on the lumber, you'll probably see black spots appear in short order wherever the liquid contacted the lumber and dried.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local cleaning companies that can remove mold and mildew.

Test For Rot

You can test for structural integrity yourself. First make sure the lumber is dry. Once the room addition is under roof, the wood should dry pretty rapidly unless you're in a very long damp spell.

Take an 8-penny nail with a sharp tip and see if you can push it into the wood with just your hand. If you meet immediate resistance, the wood is fine. If the nail, using hand pressure, penetrates deeper than one-quarter inch, then you could have wood rot.

Stain Solver Cleaner

Oxygen Bleach

Stain Solver is MADE in the USA with USA ingredients that are food-grade quality. CLICK THE IMAGE to order some NOW.

Cleaning the mildew and mold from the wood is a good idea. You don't want it covered up. Cleaning can be accomplished in several ways.

I recommend you use Stain Solver certified organic oxygen bleach mixed with a little bit of liquid dish soap

The Stain Solver is a pure powder Made in the USA with USA ingredients. It dissolves in warm or hot tap water with a little bit of stirring.

Once mixed and all the powder is dissolved, just pour the solution into a garden hand-pump sprayer and squirt it on all the lumber that's got mildew and mold on it.

Allow it to soak for about 15 minutes keeping the lumber wet with the solution the entire time.

Don't worry, the water is not going to harm the wood since it's able to dry rapidly.

Toxic Chlorine Bleach

Chlorine bleach is also very effective at cleaning up the mold and mildew. You can mix a 50-50 solution with regular chlorine bleach and water.

Some people don't do well with the fumes, so be careful. Wear old clothes as the chlorine bleach will ruin dyed fabrics. Wear goggles and gloves when using chlorine bleach or any chemical.

The other issue with chlorine bleach is that any solution that gets on, or near, trees, flowers, grass, bushes, etc. will kill it. Chlorine bleach is very toxic.

Don't Cover It

You do not want to cover up this contaminated wood. It needs to be cleaned before any insulation is installed. Never cover this stained wood with drywall or paneling. Anyone with asthma or other respiratory challenges could suffer from the hidden spores.

If you're building during a wet spell and the builder is trying to move the job along, never allow him to cover up the wood if it's still wet. Trapping water and moisture in wood will cause mold and mildew to grow.

Air Dry Is Fast

It doesn't take long for wood to air dry, especially once the roof is on and there are high-performance vapor barriers in place in crawlspaces and under concrete slabs. Don't be fooled by a builder that says the wood will dry out on it's own in the wall.

IMPORTANT TIP:  Don't allow a builder to apply a vapor barrier on wet lumber. This will trap moisture and mold and mildew will become a huge issue. A vapor barrier traps the moisture in the wall cavity.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local cleaning companies that can remove mold and mildew.

Column 947

Bathroom Remodeling Sequence

Posted on by Tim Carter
Bathroom Remodeling

Bathroom remodeling Project © 2017 Tim Carter

Bathroom Remodeling Steps TIPS

DEAR TIM: I'm adding a bathroom in my house. The framing is complete and I am a little confused as to the order of the rest of the tasks. When do I install the plumbing pipes? Do I tile before or after the tub is installed? When are the vanity and the toilet installed? When do I drywall? Mark O., Chicago, IL

DEAR MARK: Adding a bathroom is tough enough, but the job can be even harder if you goof up the sequence of events from start to finish. Not only can you make things more difficult, there is a chance of ruining completed work that is already in place. As you might expect, there is a logical order that professionals follow to maximize profits and minimize the amount of time spent working.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local bathroom remodeling contractors.

Overall Size

One of the first things that should be done is to determine the proper placement of the bathroom walls. This requires precise planning as many model building codes dictate minimum clearance requirements in and around toilets and bathroom sinks. I hope you have your walls in the right place, if not, you may have to start over.

Toilet Space

For example, a toilet must be centered in a space no less than 30 inches wide. The actual space can be larger, but in no instance can another fixture be closer than 15 inches from the centerline of the toilet.

The minimum distance from the front edge of the toilet bowl to the wall you face while resting on the toilet must be 18 inches or 24 inches depending upon your local code. This same minimum distance requirement applies to the front edge of the sink countertop as well.

Bathroom Remodeling

This is the toilet in my own 1/2 bath powder room. There's plenty of room because the distance between the two side walls is 54 inches. That leaves about 19 inches of space from the edge of the toilet bowl to either wall. © 2017 Tim Carter

Always check your local codes as you create your plans. Apply for your building permit as soon as your plans are complete.

Walls Before Plumbing

If the floor to this new bathroom is constructed with wood floors joists and a wood sub-floor, the walls should be constructed before plumbing drain lines are installed. The opposite is true if the bathroom will be located on a concrete floor.

Slabs and Plumbing

In this case, all below-floor-drain lines need to be installed first. Triple check the pipe placement before you pour the new concrete floor.

The best way to ensure the plumbing pipes are installed in the correct location is to stake out the bathroom wall plates and suspend them in the work area with wood stakes. Be sure this frame is in the right location so the actual walls will be right where the bottom plates of your frame are after the slab is poured.

I'd always drill the holes in these temporary wall plates for the plumbing drains and vent lines that would extend up through the slab after the concrete is dry.

This trick was taught to me by an old master plumber named Ralph Vilardo. It allows you to get the drain and vent pipes perfectly centered on the walls. 

The rough carpenters will hug you!

Keep in mind that some states and local governments only allow licensed plumbers to install drain and water supply pipes. Check your building department to see if you are permitted to do your own plumbing work.

Frame the Walls

The day after the concrete is poured, the walls can be framed. Keep in mind the location of the tub and shower faucet. The center line of the tub or shower should be the center of the space between two wall studs on this wall.

This allows you to install the faucet without cutting a wall stud. When all of the walls and ceiling studs are in place, install the remaining above grade plumbing drain lines and vent pipes.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local bathroom remodeling contractors.

Tub and Shower

It's now time to install the tub or shower. After the tub is in place, keep it covered with heavy drop cloths to prevent scratches and nicks. With the tub in place, complete the installation of all of the water supply lines.

Heating Hardest

The next step is to rough in any heating and cooling ducts, heat piping, and ventilation piping for fans. Realize that HVAC ducts are big. This subcontractor has the hardest time making things work out in tight spaces. After he's done, then all the above rough plumbing pipes should be installed.

Electric Rough Last

Once this is complete, install all of the rough electrical wiring. Make sure that wall-mounted light fixtures don't interfere with medicine cabinets, mirrors, or side walls. This is a common mistake.

Wall sconce fixtures hang out beyond the small rough-in boxes. Be sure the final fixture doesn't cause a conflict with a mirror or swinging door.

Magic Floor Heat!

You've got a one-time chance to make your new bathroom floor toasty warm in the winter. Install an electric radiant floor mat on top of the subfloor.

radiant floor mat

This is the electric radiant floor mat that's heating my man cave ham radio shack. It's a great DIY project. CLICK the IMAGE NOW to order your own NuHeat Electric Floor Heat Mat.

I've got one in my man cave ham-radio shack and it heats the entire room. You'll never have cold feet from icy ceramic tile! 

It's easy to install this mat. Please watch the three videos of me installing the mat in my man cave:


Insulation

Insulate all exterior walls for energy savings and consider insulating all interior walls for sound control.

SECRET TIP: It's a great idea to pack insulation around the underside voids of the tub as well. This will keep bath water nice and warm for extended periods of time.

Cement or Waterproof Board

It's now time to install cement board on any walls around the tub that will be covered with ceramic tile. Consider installing moisture-resistant drywall on all walls. If you never want any problems with this drywall failing, then coat it with clear urethane - two coats - before it's finished.

clear water-based urethane

I've had excellent results with this clear water-based urethane. It dries FAST. CLICK THE IMAGE TO ORDER SOME NOW.

Normal Drywall

Regular drywall can be used for the ceiling. Finish and sand the drywall.

Watch this video to see a few drywall finishing tips. I have MANY OTHER drywall videos here at AsktheBuilder.com. Just type: drywall videos into the search engine here on any page to view them.


If you have a wood floor system, it's now time to install cement board on the floor to support the ceramic tile. You can skip this step if you installed the electric floor mat. You covered the floor mat with thinset to create the solid surface for the tile.

Ceramic Tile

The tile in the tub and shower area should be installed and finished first. Follow that with the floor tile. Tile the entire floor in case someone decides to install a pedestal sink.

Finish Carpentry

When the floor tile grout is dry, install the bathroom door and trim.

Paint Now

Consider painting the room at this point. It's easier to paint with no toilet or vanity cabinet and top in the way.

Install Fixtures

After the paint is dry, carefully install the toilet and sink. Cover the floor with drop cloths during this process to avoid hurting the new tile. Complete the job by installing mirrors, towel bars, and accessories.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local bathroom remodeling contractors.

Column 287

Connecting a New Foundation to an Old One

Posted on by Tim Carter
connect new foundation to existing

Connect new foundation to existing: Those two pieces of vertical rebar help lock two different pours of concrete together. You start the foundation with a footer or footing. This footing will soon have a foundation wall on it directly over the keyway groove in the concrete. The clay soil beneath it is extremely stable. © 2017 Tim Carter

"You have numerous options with respect to making a physical connection between the two foundations. I've successfully installed steel pins that are epoxied into the old foundation."

Connect New Foundation to Existing Checklist

DEAR TIM: I'm building an addition on my home and realize I must connect the new foundation with the existing one. What's the best way to do this? Is there a way to waterproof the connection?

Will this connection become a hinge point in the future causing cracks in the walls? I am very concerned about how to make a connection between the structures that will stand the test of time. Paul M., Orono, MN

DEAR PAUL: I can remember many years ago having these same thoughts when I was building my first room addition. I couldn't figure out how the shallow crawlspace foundation would stay connected to the full basement foundation since they were at different elevations.

My geology professors would have frowned at me had they been at the job site. I was not thinking through how to connect the new foundation to the existing one.

Is a Foundation Wall a Beam?

Many people fail to realize that a typical foundation wall is, among other things, a beam. You begin to see this if you look at the vertical web in a steel I beam or even a simple wooden floor joist.

connect new foundation to existing

Note how the tall poured walls look just like the center web of an I-beam.  Copyright 2018 Tim Carter

Understanding this is essential. Steel I beams derive much of their strength by the thickness and height of the vertical web section of the I beam. It's important to realize steel I-beams gain a great amount of strength from the top and bottom flanges. The top flange is the flat part that ironworkers walk on as they erect the steel.

Can Taller Beams Span Farther?

Generally speaking the taller the vertical web, the farther the beam can span between supports. You can see this clearly if you pay attention to bridges that cross many of the interstate highways you might travel here in the USA.

Some of the bridges span 100, or more, feet between the poured concrete supports at each end of the bridge. The steel I-beams are often 3, 4 or 5 feet tall whereas the typical I-beam in a house basement might only be 8 inches tall.

A foundation wall is no different other than the fact its vertical height is ten or fifteen times greater than a typical residential I beam.

How Important is Soil Strength?

The soil strength is the most important thing of all. Strong soil will not allow the new foundation to drop below the existing one you're connecting to.

If you accept this principal, then it stands to reason the foundation will not flex up or down if the soil beneath this beam is solid.

This is perhaps the most important aspect of connecting the two foundations. The soil under a foundation of the existing house and the foundation must be strong.

If it is, then there's no reason the room addition foundation will sink or pivot next to the existing house.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local SOIL engineers to ensure your foundation is fine.

What are Foundation Steps?

Foundation steps are parts of a continuous wall that are different heights. When you face the wall the top of the foundation appears to be a giant staircase. The photo above shows a side wall with two steps to the right of the highest part of the foundation.

Foundation steps are used when a house is built on a steep or shallow hillside.

When new homes are built, it's often a common practice to pour different parts of the foundation at different times and at different heights within the soil profile. The fact that you are installing the foundations years apart instead of days will make no difference.

I was able to tape three videos of a new foundation going in for a detached garage being constructed here in central New Hampshire just two houses away from my own home. This was NOT my job. I was just a spectator.

Can Footings Be Stepped?

Yes, a footing can be stepped. These are necessary to keep the footing below the frost level when a house is built on a hillside.

But the garage had a stepped footer. Meaning the footer was at different levels just like your addition will be with respect to your home.

WATCH THESE THREE VIDEOS TO SEE FOUNDATION / FOOTING STEPS:


Should the Foundation Contain Reinforcing Steel?

The masonry foundation or the slab should also contain structural steel. Dual horizontal steel bars 12 to 16 inches from the top and bottom of poured concrete foundations help to create a stiff concrete beam.

Concrete block foundations can incorporate steel truss fabric that is installed in every other row of the concrete block units. Filling the hollow cores of concrete block foundations with a pea-gravel concrete slurry also adds strength.

Concrete slabs can contain 1/2-inch diameter steel bars on two-foot centers in both directions to stiffen the slab substantially. A residential structural engineer can easily specify the best solution for your particular situation.

foundation footer

This is the footer under the laundry room portion of my home. Note the distinct soil profiles. My house is built on glacial till. In fact, both visible soil profiles may represent two separate glacial episodes! © 2017 Tim Carter

How Do You Connect a New Footing to an Existing One?

Use steel rods to connect a new footing to an existing one. Drill a hole into the existing footing the same diameter as the steel bar. The depth should be at least 4 inches. Hammer a 10-inch length of steel bar into the hole leaving at least 6 inches to extend into the new footing.

You have numerous options with respect to making a physical connection between the two foundations. I've successfully installed steel pins that are epoxied into the old foundation.

On other jobs, I've bolted a steel angle iron to the existing foundation. The concrete of the footing is poured on the flat part of the angle iron. You can see how it would help hold the footing to the existing foundation just as a shelf cleat hold a shelf in a closet or pantry

Is it Okay to Encapsulate the Steel in the Concrete?

These building components then become encapsulated by the masonry materials that are used to create the new room addition foundation. It's always best to hire a structural engineer to create a design for this connection.

This is especially true if you live in an area with expansive clay soils or an area that is subject to seismic movement.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local STRUCTURAL engineers who'll help you.

Can the New Connection be Waterproof?

There are special waterproof connection materials that work well when connecting a poured concrete foundation to an existing one. These flexible waterproofing materials look like weatherstripping on steroids as they have small fins that project from the center of the main strip.

The base is epoxied and sealed to the existing foundation and the strip projects into the center of the foundation form. When the wet concrete surrounds the strip, you have a waterproof joint so long as the foundations do not pull apart from one another.

How do You Waterproof the New Foundation Connection?

I feel the best way to waterproof new foundations is to apply special waterproofing compounds to the exterior of the finished foundation. There are many different products and systems but all rely on excellent drainage around the foundation.

You need to make sure your drainage system can collect the subsurface water and transport it to a low spot on your property or into a sump pit where it can be pumped to a stormwater collection system.

Do Deep Piers Help in Weak Soil?

Yes, piers help hold up a foundation in weak soil.

Soil stability is everything when it comes to foundations. If the soil quality is suspect, you can ensure a stable foundation by installing piers under the foundation footer.

Piers can be made from concrete, steel or wood, but a common one is a simple vertical hole that extends into the soil until it finds bedrock or stable soil. This hole is then filled with concrete

Piers can be spaced at eight or ten-foot intervals and resemble table legs. The foundation, which is a beam, simply transfers its load down and through the individual piers instead of the unstable soil in between the piers.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local STRUCTURAL engineers who'll help you.

Column 500

Washing Machine Venting Diagram

Posted on by Tim Carter

Washing Machine Drain Vent TIPS

Kevin's Shortcut Vent

Kevin Garretty emailed me about a vexing problem at his Beaufort, SC home. He included a proposed drawing of what he wanted to do.

Believe it or not, he was darn close to doing it the right way.

He's scratching his head about the correct way to vent a washing machine and needs a venting diagram.

Tim's a Master Plumber

For the record, I'm a master plumber among other things. I was a master plumber at age 28 in Hamilton County, Ohio. Ten years later I sat and passed the master test for the City of Cincinnati and got my masters license.

I loved doing the plumbing on all my jobs. I think it was the challenge of the 3-D aspect of creating the network of drain and vent pipes that attracted me to the trade.

Think about it. You have one pipe leave a house to the sewer or septic system and often only one vent pipe up on the roof.

But in between, those pipes bifurcate like crazy. A master plumber needs to know how to make it all work so no sewer gas ever enters the house.

Kevin's Drawing

Here's what Kevin cooked up in his head.

"Is it OK to vent washer drain line, before the hard trap in the wall?"

washing machine drain pipe

This is Kevin's drawing. NEVER install a washing machine drain pipe and vent like this. Look at MY drawing below.

Kevin, the answer is NO. 

Suction

In your scenario, if a fixture that's farther upstream discharges lots of water that rushes by the wye fitting where your washing machine drain pipe connects, the vacuum created by the water rushing past the washing machine branch Wye will siphon water from your trap.

Correct Venting Prevents Suction

If you put the vent line at the connection point of the washing machine branch arm like you see in my drawing, the vacuum pulls the needed air from the vent pipe before it tries to get it on the other side of the trap. It's looking for the path of LEAST RESISTANCE to get the needed air.

Toilets - BIG Problems!

In my diagram, I've shown a half-bathroom upstream from the washing machine. Imagine what happens when that toilet is flushed! 

The rushing water fills the pipe completely and pushes the air in the pipe ahead of it towards the sewer. That air MUST BE REPLACED and as the water goes past wye fittings, it creates a vacuum at that point.

Tim's Drawing

I've included the proper pipe sizes for the system. The dashed lines are vent lines and note the one vent line for the half bath is a full-sized 3-inch vent that goes up and through the roof.

The pipe that drains the lavatory sink is 3-inch in diameter because that drain line also acts as a vent for the toilet. The 3-inch pipe would never completely fill with water even if you filled the lavatory sink and pulled the stopper. This wet venting is permitted by most codes.

I've done it for years on many systems, even at my own home, and never had a suction issue if you flush the toilet and let a full sink of lavatory water drain at the same time.

Remember that vent lines MUST be sloped so they drain water towards the sewer. You never want standing water in a vent line.

Washing Machine Venting Diagram

Note the pipe sizes. It's very important that a washing machine has a 2-inch drain line up to where it connects to the main stack. Look at the interesting wet venting of the toilet! READ the column above to understand how it works. (C) Copyright 2017 Tim Carter - Master Plumber

 

 

 

Excess Grout Removal

Posted on by Tim Carter

Grout Removal TIPS

DEAR TIM: I was grouting ceramic tile when I had to leave the house for an emergency. When I could finally get back to work the next day, the grout was hard as a rock. I have extra tile, should I just remove the mess I have now and start over? Is there a way to remove the hardened grout without harming the tile? Dan A., Orlando, FL

DEAR DAN: First, I hope all of those associated with the emergency situation are okay and doing well. As for your ceramic tile, I would not just yet pronounce it DOA (dead on arrival).

Depending upon certain factors, including but not limited to, amount of excess grout, the amount of time the grout has been left to harden, the surface texture of the tile, and the amount of patience you have, you may be able to salvage the tile job. It most definitely is worth a try.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local tile repair contractors.

excess grout removal

These tools will get up most of the grout paste left behind. The wood stick with sharp edges will prevent scratches as you try to pop off large pieces of grout. Vacuum up the dust as you work, so the grout grit does not scratch the glazed tile.

Use Right Tools

The best tool to use is an oak wood stick with sharp edges will prevent scratches as you try to pop off large pieces of grout.

The easiest place to get oak is a pallet slat. Visit an business that uses pallets for incoming and outgoing freight and they'll have a crap pallet around.

You just have to peel off one of the top boards and then saw it so it's the shape of a paint stirring stick.

Paint Sticks Work Too

If getting oak is too much work, and it can be, then just use a paint stirring stick.

Slowly scrape the excess grout with the stick edge. Cut into the grout with the corner of the stick.

Do NOT attack the grout like a bulldozer cuts into a hill of dirt. The stick will ride up over the grout.

IMPORTANT TIP: Brush away or vacuum up the grout grit and dust as you work. If you don't, the grout grit will scratch the glazed tile.

Floor grout contains fine pieces of silica sand and it's extremely abrasive. The sand will scratch tile fast and it's just about impossible to repair the tiny scratches.

48 Hours

The primary ingredient in many ceramic tile grouts is Portland cement. It takes days and often weeks for ceramic tile grout to reach full strength.

At this point in time, you're working against the clock. Every hour after the grout was installed, it gets much harder to remove it.

I've found that if you start to remove excess grout within 48 hours after it was installed, it's not too hard.

The longer you hesitate to remove the grout, the harder it becomes to remove. If, by chance, the grout was an epoxy grout, you're toast. It's virtually impossible to remove excess epoxy grout from tile surfaces without damaging the tile.

Step-By-Step Tips

The grout removal process requires just a few simple tools. You need some small pieces of wood that have very square-cut edges and several brand new nylon scouring pads.

scotch brite dobie pad

This is the BEST grout removal tool I've ever used in conjunction with a wood stick. These nylon pads do a fantastic job. CLICK THE IMAGE ABOVE NOW TO ORDER THEM.

The first thing to do is to work in a small area to see how successful the grout removal techniques will be. If you have rapid success and can get a few tiles clean within a few minutes, that's a very good sign.

No Metal Tools

Use the wood sticks to remove large clumps and layers of grout. Do NOT use metal scraping tools, putty knives, etc. The metal will permanently damage the glazed surface of the tile.

Don't allow contractors to use metal tools.

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Oak is Best - Soft Woods Dull

I prefer to use pieces of oak that are 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch thick, one-inch wide and perhaps six inches long. The oak hardwood holds its square-cut edge longer than a softwood like most paint stirring sticks.

Use a power saw to make sure all of the edges are square cut instead of slightly rounded. The crisp square edge aggressively cuts through the grout down to the surface of the ceramic tile.

Add Water

Before you begin to attack the grout-covered tile with the stick, pour a little water on it. The water acts as a lubricant and helps to prevent micro-scratches on the glazed tile surface. It should not require excessive pressure to get immediate results.

The trick to removing large grout deposits is to just cut into the grout with a corner of the grout stick. Don't try to push the entire square face of the oak stick into a large clump of grout.

Once the heavy deposits of grout are removed using the oak stick, rinse off all of the grout particles and grit from the surface of the tile.

New MicroFiber Sponge

New tools and products hit the market all the time. Farther down below you'll see traditional grout sponges that work really well for this job.

But right here is a newer sponge that combines a microfiber surface on one side that really helps you get rid of the DRIED grout haze on ceramic tile. CLICK HERE NOW to order one of these sponges.

grout sponge

Here's a fantastic newer sponge that will do a great job of cleaning dried grout haze. CLICK THE IMAGE NOW TO BUY ONE.

Scrub Away

Add more fresh water to the surface of the tile. Get the nylon scouring pad wet as well. Begin to scour the tile surface with the pad adding plenty of fresh water as you scrub. You should see dramatic results within seconds.

Check for Scratches!

You can test to see if all of the grout paste has been removed by doing a final rinse on the tile(s) you just worked on. Use a soft cotton cloth to dry the tile. You can also dry it quickly with a regular fan or a hair dryer.

Remove Haze

Wet tile can trick you. It often looks perfect but frequently after it dries you will see a slight grout haze upon it. Hold a piece of spare tile next to the clean and dry tile to see if it has been restored to its original condition.

Add New Grout

The biggest challenge of the job will be restoring the grout lines between the tiles. When tile grout is wet, it is very easy to make the grout lines uniform using a special grout sponge that has rounded edges.

grout sponges with rounded edges

These are wonderful grout sponges with rounded edges. I've used these for decades with amazing results. CLICK THE PHOTO IMAGE NOW TO ORDER THESE SPONGES.

Carving Hard Grout

The sponge tools the grout line smooth. But now, the grout in between the tiles is anything but uniform. Use coarse sandpaper to slightly round off a corner of one of the oak sticks so that it resembles a woodworker's chisel.

As you push and pull the stick back and forth along the grout lines, the rounded corner will cut a profile similar to what the sponge would have created. Once again, introduce some water to the grout to act as a lubricant.

Do not give up if you do not see immediate results. Try to be patient with the wood stick as it may be far easier to dress the grout this way than to remove the grout and start over. If you do decide to re-grout, try to make sure you do when you will not be called away from the house!

Secret Sugar Trick

I know this is going to sound crazy, but try it. Take one gallon of warm water and dissolve a cup of sugar into it. Take this sweet solution and pour it onto excess grout on a floor. If you have wall tile with too much grout, then soak paper towels in the solution and place them on the tile.

Keep the tile wet with the sugar water for at least two hours. After this dwell time is complete, use a new Dobie nylon scrub pad and scrub a small area. You should see instant results. It may take more than one application of sugar water to completely remove the grout film.

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Column 433

Crawl Space Encapsulation or Not

Posted on by Tim Carter
crawl space vent

This is a typical crawl space vent that’s supposed to allow air into and out of a crawl space. They just don't work. It's like trying to breath through a small cocktail straw. © 2017 Tim Carter

Crawlspace Encapsulation TIPS

DEAR TIM: My head is spinning from all of the conflicting information I'm seeing online about crawl space encapsulation. Should it be done or should I just rely on the traditional vents I have in my foundation? I have a 1,100 square-foot crawl space and the slate floor above is ice cold because there's no insulation. What would you do if this were your home and why? - Richard J., Toledo, OH

DEAR RICHARD: I can understand your frustration. While the Internet is an amazing resource, the barrier to entry with respect to publishing is lower than the bottom of Death Valley. If you can fog a mirror and type on a keyboard, you're capable of posting your opinion about how you think things should be done on the Internet.

Bad JuJu Info

Back before the Internet, traditional book publishers would do a fairly good job of vetting an author before they agreed to publish his work. This filtering process kept much of the erroneous information out of the mainstream.

It was possible to self-publish, but those that chose to do this had a tough time distributing their work. The Internet has removed these barriers and filters.

To stop your head from spinning, let's dive into the science of crawl spaces. I prefer to base my opinions and beliefs on science, not speculation.

Bare Soil

A traditional crawl space under a home consists of soil or sand that was the ground before construction started. Sometimes the topsoil is removed, but what you see is bare soil. I've been in crawlspaces that have had concrete poured on top of the soil or some washed gravel.

Water Vapor Pump

Unless you live in the Atacama Desert, the ground under and around your home contains moisture. This liquid water wants to evaporate and get back up to the atmosphere. If you could see water vapor, you'd see a constant flow of this gas floating up into the air. When it's warm, the flow rate is faster.

Water = Mold

This water vapor, when mixed with wood, is not a good thing. If enough water vapor collects in a crawl space before getting back to the outside atmosphere, it can condense and turn to liquid water again. This water fuels mold growth and fungi growth you might call wood rot.

Old builders knew about this. The best they could do was to provide an escape path of the water vapor to the outside.

Crawl Space Vents

That's what the crawl space vents are for in your foundation. The trouble is, they don't work too well. I've been in crawl spaces when the wind is howling outdoors and barely have felt a puff of air come into an open foundation vent.

Plastic The Answer

Once plastics were gaining traction in the 1960's, thin sheets of vapor barrier were available. While not perfect, they did a magnificent job of blocking the movement of water vapor. Cross laminated vapor barriers that meet or exceed the ASTM E 1745 are some of the best products out there to block water vapor.

Tu-Tuf is an excellent cross-laminated vapor barrier that passes the ASTM E 1745 standard. This is what you want to use to cover the soil in your crawlspace.

CLICK HERE TO ORDER Tu-Tuf NOW.

An entire industry has evolved in the past fifteen years that specializes in encapsulating crawl spaces so the water vapor stays is the soil. When done correctly, encapsulation is an excellent way to arrest the movement of water vapor from the soil up into your home.

Puffed Barriers

Realize that other gases can escape from the soil under your crawl space and cause any plastic or membrane to puff up like a balloon. Be sure to discuss this possibility with any contractor you're getting bids from.

These same high-performance vapor barriers should be placed under poured concrete basement floors to stop water vapor movement. The same is true for any house that uses a slab-on-grade foundation. Water vapor can and does pass through poured concrete.

IMPORTANT TIP: I'd do all this mold remediation before I'd install any encapsulation product or system in the crawl space.

Stop Liquid Water

Some crawl spaces are plagued with standing water or running water in periods of heavy rain. You can stop this water from entering a crawl space by installing one of my linear french drains around the outside of your home.

Linear French Drain Streaming Video

Do your own DIY install of a Linear French Drain with Tim Carter's time-tested methods and materials! CLICK IMAGE TO ORDER NOW!

My college course in hydro-geology taught me how to capture and divert water in the soil. A linear french drain is just a gutter in the ground.

As water passes through the soil sideways through the top soil where there's air, the gravel in the trench captures the water and gravity pulls it down to the perforated drain pipe.

Many homeowners like you have used my technique to dry out their wet basements and crawlspaces. CLICK HERE to get a professional Streaming Video showing you how to STOP water problems in your crawlspace.

Column 1068

Poured Concrete vs. Block Walls

Posted on by Tim Carter
poured concrete foundation

The entire hollow spot created by the foundation addition needs to be filled with something so the concrete slab to be poured on it will not settle. Photo credit: Dave Lich

Poured Concrete vs. Block Walls TIPS

DEAR TIM: What's the difference between concrete block and poured concrete foundation walls? Which one is better? The lot I'm going to build upon has a seasonably high water table. Which of the wall systems would ensure a dry basement? Diane J., Redwood Falls, MN

DEAR DIANE: I think it might have been easier to answer a question such as: Is a glorious sunrise more beautiful than a magnificent sunset? The truth of the matter is that both building materials - concrete block and poured concrete - can yield superior foundation walls so long as they are installed correctly.

All too often builders and sub-contractors fail to realize the limitations of certain masonry materials. When this happens, foundation failures are a common occurrence.

Related Content

Precast Concrete Foundations Deserve Your Attention

Waterproof ALL Foundations - No Matter Which One You Do

Free & Fast Bids

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local foundation contractors.

Concrete Block Is Concrete!

The first thing to realize is that concrete block is made from poured concrete. The primary ingredients in concrete block happen to be: Portland cement, gravel aggregate, and sand. These are the same ingredients you'd find in a poured, or cast, concrete foundation.

The only difference between the two finished products s the size of the gravel. Typically you'll see gravel stones as large as big juicy grapes in a poured concrete foundation. A concrete block may have gravel no larger than the size of a standard green pea or a dried raisin.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS on a concrete BLOCK foundation.

concrete block - foundation corner

Poured or Cast Concrete

Poured concrete foundations are solid through and through. This happens by default as the plastic concrete flows from the ready-mix trucks into the foundation forms. Poor workmanship can yield hollow spots in poured foundations. The contractors use special vibrating tools to prevent this.

The typical concrete block foundation is not solid. The concrete blocks that are used to build block foundations, by their very nature, are hollow.


CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS on a POURED concrete foundation.

Make Block Walls Solid

When concrete blocks are stacked on top of one another, you can look down through the center of the foundation. After the concrete blocks are laid, the voids can be filled with a cement-based mortar or poured concrete that contains small pea gravel.

The concrete used to fill the block voids must have small gravel so it can flow readily into all the narrow voids. To maximize strength, the voids need to have 1/2-inch steel rods centered in the voids from the bottom of the block walls to the top. Put this steel every 2-feet on center.

If the builder does this, then the filled concrete block walls are nearly identical to poured concrete walls.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local foundation contractors.

Both Weak If Bent

But simply doing this is not enough to satisfy me, code officials and structural engineers. Concrete and things made of concrete or cement tend to have fantastic compressive strength.

This means when you squeeze concrete it's very strong. Often it is measured in the thousands of pounds-per-square-inch range.

But the same material typically has only one-tenth the strength when you apply a tension to it. Tension is a bending or stretching force.

You can easily picture this. Imagine pouring a 4-inch thick slab that's 10 feet wide and 40 feet long that's up three feet in the air and just supported on each end.

It would bend in the center under its own weight and crack long before it would if you tried to drive across it!

Massive Soil Pressure

Backfilled soil against a wall produces tension as the soil pushes against the wall. Poor quality soil creates tension on a foundation as more and more weight is added to the foundation as the house is built.

Poor drainage around a house creates pressure as tons of water collects in the soil.

This is why roof water should NEVER be allowed to run on the ground near a foundation.

The use of splash blocks at the base of a full basement is comical. Roof water needs to be piped far away from the house to the lowest spot on the lot or into an approved storm sewer.



Steel = Strength

You can strengthen poured concrete and concrete block walls by including reinforcing steel. Often you will see horizontal steel bars placed in the lower and upper sections of poured foundation walls.

This steel is usually found about one foot up from the bottom of the foundation wall and a foot down from the top.

There are usually two rows of the steel and it's continuous around the entire foundation. When the steel bars overlap, it should be no less than 16 inches.

This steel often has a tensile strength of 40,000 pounds per square inch. This horizontal steel helps prevent vertical cracks should the foundation drop or heave.

Horizontal wire fabric can also be placed in the mortar joints between layers of concrete block to achieve the same result in a concrete block wall.

Vertical Steel

Vertical reinforcing steel is also very important. This steel can be put in both a poured concrete foundation and a concrete block wall that will have the hollow voids filled with cement grout or pea gravel concrete.

The reinforcing steel should be one-half inch in diameter and these rods should be connected to the poured concrete footer that the foundation rests upon. This steel should be placed every two feet on center.

Not Waterproof

Neither wall system will be waterproof. If you want a dry basement or crawlspace you must apply a foundation waterproofing system to the exterior of the foundation walls after they are built.

There are many different systems, but my favorite when I was building was a rubberized asphalt called Tuff-n-Dry. Once the material was sprayed on the walls it was about 1/8-inch thick. If the foundation did crack, this material could stretch and bridge a crack up to 1/4-inch I believe. The specifications may be different today.

Liquid asphalt is often sprayed on a new foundation wall. It's like a coat of paint and very thin. This is NOT waterproofing. It's just a vapor barrier.

Drain Tile

In addition, a drain piping system needs to be at the base of the wall adjacent to the footer.

This pipe is covered with two or three feet of washed gravel. The gravel is then covered with six inches of straw or a sheet of tar paper before dirt is placed over it. The straw and tar paper prevent silt from the fluffed up backfill dirt from clogging the gravel. The water that flows through the soil and makes it to the pipe is then drained to daylight if the house is built on a sloping lot. If the house is built on a level lot, the drain pipe often empties into a sump pit.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local foundation contractors.

Column 439

Thickness of Poured Concrete Foundation Walls

Posted on by Tim Carter
Poured Concrete Foundation

The thickness of the foundation walls you are looking at are not the same. The wall below and the one to the left of the hose bib faucet are only 8 inches thick. The other walls are 10 inches thick even though there is less soil pressing against them. Why? The 8 inch thick walls are very short and they form part of half an octagon that creates a vast amount of strength. The thicker wall is straight and runs nearly 40 feet from the corner where you see the downspout. © 2017 Tim Carter

Thickness of Poured Concrete Foundation Walls TIPS

DEAR TIM: How thick should a poured concrete foundation wall be? Is it a function of the size of the house? Bob McKnight, Hagerstown, MD

DEAR BOB: The answer, although fairly intuitive, is not as crystal clear as you might think. As a poured concrete wall gets taller, it needs to be thicker. But there are many other variables that control the thickness of the wall.

A structural engineer would consider lateral loads as well as loads from the structure above. Even concentrated loads from columns and beam pockets within a wall must be considered.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local structural engineers who'll properly size your foundation walls.

Really A Retaining Wall

To help visualize what is really happening with foundation walls, especially those that are buried in the ground, think about simple retaining walls.

Perhaps you have seen a retaining wall that has tipped over, was leaning or has cracked. The soil on the other side of a basement wall exerts a powerful force and this needs to be taken into consideration when designing and building a foundation wall.

Add Steel

To add further confusion, you also have to factor in reinforcing steel. Steel bars that are incorporated into poured concrete add enormous strength to the wall system. The placement of the steel is critical depending upon how you are trying to strengthen the wall.

Huge Soil Pressure

For example, if soil loads are significant and a house is built into a hillside, vertical reinforcing steel is a must. The pressure of the soil creeping down the hill can cause a foundation wall to develop a horizontal crack much like when you snap a saltine cracker in half with your fingers.

Vertical steel bars of a given thickness spaced a distinct distance apart and placed at a precise place within the wall can help ensure the wall will not fail. Structural engineers know exactly where the steel needs to be and how much to include.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local structural engineers who'll properly size your foundation walls.

Recommendations

There are some basic rules of thumb for foundation wall thickness and these are outlined in many modern building codes. Poured concrete foundation walls that are less than 8 feet tall and have soil outside that is 6 or 7 feet deep against the wall can often be 8 inches thick and function quite well.

As soon as you go higher or have greater depths of soil pushing against the wall, you need to increase the thickness to 10 inches.

Pilasters / Buttresses

You may even have to put in pilasters or buttresses to strengthen long, tall walls. A pilaster is a thickened part of a wall in a short distance.

For example, a 10-inch thick wall may all of a sudden thicken to 16 inches for just a foot or so. That's a pilaster.

A buttress is a short stub wall that extends inside the perimeter of the foundation. It might be 3 or 4-feet long. It does the same job as a beam would do under a floor joist.

High-Strength Concrete

Don't forget that the concrete comes in different strengths depending upon how much cement is added at the ready-mix plant. I would use a minimum mix of 3,500 pounds per square inch(psi) mix. You can upgrade to 4,000 psi concrete if you desire, but I would only do this if it was specified by the structural engineer.

One last point: Remember that the specifications in the building code are minimum standards. You can always improve upon the guidelines you see in the code.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local structural engineers who'll properly size your foundation walls.

Column N4

Foundation Grade Level – Don’t Go Too Low!

Posted on by Tim Carter
foundation wall

Foundation Grade Level | You can see that more than 6 inches of the foundation wall are exposed above the orange extension cord. On the right side of the photo, the foundation height is about 36 inches high. This allowed for traditional basement windows to be installed to allow air and light into my basement. I built this home in 1986. © 2017 Tim Carter

Foundation Soil Grade Checklist

  • Most foundations too deep in the ground
  • Top of foundation 18 inches above grade
  • Use excavated dirt to create an illusion of a low slope
  • 6 inches of exposed foundation minimum
  • CLICK HERE to Get Tim's FREE & FUNNY Newsletter!

Your home may be one that was buried too deep into the ground.

The builder dug the hole too deep. Based on my forty years of looking at, and building, house foundations, I'd say it happens nine times out of ten. This mistake causes all sorts of drainage problems around a house.

I've traveled all across the USA looking at foundations on houses built after WW II. Just about everyone I see is too low. There's not enough slope around most homes to provide excellent drainage.

Builders from 140 years ago in many parts of the nation, knew how high to make foundations. More on that below.

New Construction

New homes and room additions are frequently the victims of poor planning with regard to grading. I can't tell you how many houses I have seen that were put too deeply into the ground.

This condition causes marshy ground, wet basements or flooded slabs. In virtually every case, a simple drawing or calculation would have solved the problem.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local landscapers that can grade the soil around your home.

Make a Drawing

Many modern building codes have responded to this problem. They require that the top of foundations or slabs be at least 6 inches above the highest point of soil at any location around the house.

IMPORTANT TIP: This code requirement, as are ALL THINGS IN THE BUILDING CODE, is a MINIMUM requirement. This means you can increase the distance and give your home more protection.

Visit older neighborhoods in large cities east of the Mississippi River, and you'll frequently see the top of the stone foundations was about 36 inches above the grade or soil around the home!

Builders centuries ago knew that water would cause the wood frames and siding to rot, so they wanted the house up away from splashing rain.

Sloping Away

Furthermore, the ground must fall away from the foundation at least 6 inches within the first 10 feet around the perimeter of the house. Note that this is a minimum requirement. The more slope the better.

foundation grade level

The top of your foundation should be 18 inches higher than nearby ground. Copyright 2018 Tim Carter

Using these calculations, this means that when laying out a new house, you need to pay attention to the existing grade before you dig.

positive slope away from house

Note how the ground slopes away from the house on all sides.

In fact, you need to site the house and see just what the highest elevation of the ground is at any point within 10 feet of where the foundation will be. Knowing this, you can now begin to dig the foundation.

I always made a point to put the top of my foundations 18 inches above this highest point. You would be surprised how quickly the dirt from the hole disappears when spread out around the house. Although the foundation would look high prior to backfilling, the ground had a very gentle slope once all grading was completed.

In my opinion, you can never have too much slope away from your house. My guess is that anyone who has a wet basement or ground that slopes back towards their foundation will agree.

Existing Homes

Those of us with existing houses that have grade problems face different challenges. Landscaping, sidewalks and other improvements must be dealt with in trying to correct grade problems.

If you are lucky enough to have a sloped lot, your task of establishing grade can be accomplished. It may take a small piece of earth moving equipment like a Bobcat or skid-steer loader, but it will be worth it.

If you have a situation where ground is slopping towards your house (houses built on hillsides), the trick is to slope the ground gently by creating a swale. This swale, or ditch, allows you to do two things. It gets water away from the house and at the same time collects the water which runs downhill towards your house. You direct this swale around a corner of the house and continue until the natural slope of the ground is falling away from your structure.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local landscapers that can grade the soil around your home.

Flat Lots

Those of you who live in houses on flat ground face a more serious challenge. Sometimes the ground is so flat that there is no way to easily create a swale or sloping condition.

See the above drawing I made to see a swale.

A swale is just a small valley in otherwise flat land.

Roof Water

In these cases, you need to pipe roof water as far away as possible. Downspouts that dump water onto the ground near the house can cause serious problems. You would be surprised at the volume of water a 1 inch rainfall can produce.

You can also consider surrounding your house with a hidden moat, something like the old castles used to have. This moat is simply a ditch that is dug around the problem areas of your house. I call it a linear French drain.

Do your own DIY install of a Linear French Drain with Tim Carter's time-tested methods and materials! CLICK IMAGE TO ORDER NOW!

This trench can be as narrow as 6 inches and work. 

The depth of the trench depends on how much sub-surface water you want to collect and your local soil conditions.

In areas with heavy clay, the trench usually only needs to be 2-feet deep.

Once this trench is excavated, fill it to within 1 inch of the top with large 1 inch washed gravel. This trench acts as a collection area for surface water. As long as your soil can absorb water (even at a slow rate), you will have improved drainage conditions around your house.

Only in very wet seasons, when the water table rises around your house, will you experience problems.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local landscapers that can grade the soil around your home.

Column B67