Bearing Wall Footing

Bearing Wall Footing

Bearing Wall Footing | This massive long block of poured concrete is a bearing wall footing. It will be covered with more concrete that forms the lower level floor. Photo Credit: Tim Carter

Bearing Wall Footing - Or What is that long block of concrete in my Basement?

DEAR TIM: My wife and I are building our new home and we stopped by to see the progress just after the foundation was poured. We saw a massive long block of concrete at least 10 inches thick in the middle of the basement floor. I don’t see how our basement floor will be smooth now with this giant thing in the way. What is it and why would the builder go to this much effort and waste this amount of concrete? Is it too late to remove it? I see pipes passing through the bottom of this concrete. I took lots of photos of this monolith. Stephen B., Dover, DE

DEAR STEPHEN: You’re doing the right thing stopping by your new home construction site. I hope you’re taking hundreds of photos of everything you see. I clearly remember the first time I was around a new home job site smelling the freshly turned earth, the lumber and all the other aromas associated with building. That and all the progress being made my excitement meter needle move.

Take Pictures

With modern digital photography, and massive amounts of memory in smart phones and cameras, it’s a wise thing to take hundreds, if not thousands, of photos of your construction projects. Be sure to take close-up photos too. These photos will become invaluable at a later date as things you see now eventually get covered up with dirt, concrete, insulation and drywall. I also urge you to take videos of what you see talking about what you see and what you’re looking at while you move the camera around.

You want to be able to know where everything is and what was there before it gets covered up. Even though you think the photo you’re taking is of nothing, an expert in the future may be able to see valuable pieces of data in the photo. I urge you to download the photos each day and place them in file folders so you know what the photos are at a future date. Be sure to backup this data so the photos and videos are never lost.

Bearing Wall Footer

I looked at your photo of that massive block of poured concrete. Without looking at your blueprints of the house, I’m quite certain it’s a bearing wall footing. Take a look at your plans and blueprints and my guess is you’ll see a wall that’s going to be in this location in your new home.

The floor joists above this wall will run perpendicular to the wall and this massive block of concrete. The wall below supports these joists. What’s more, there could be another wall upstairs that’s directly over the wall in the lower level. That wall no doubt will have floor joists passing over it at a 90-degree angle too.

Depending on how your roof is going to be framed, there’s a possibility that some of the roof load could transfer down through the center of the home as well. The bearing wall footing you see now in the basement will support all this weight and transfer it over a wider area to the soil beneath the footing.

Will my Basement Floor be Level?

To the untrained eye, you may think this massive concrete block is at the same level, or even higher than what your concrete basement floor will be poured. Mistakes have happened and contractors have poured these footings too high, but it’s rare that this happens.

I think what you’ll probably discover if you stretch a string is that the top of the bearing wall footing is at the same elevation as the top of the footings that your poured foundation walls rest upon. There is no need to remove the bearing wall footing unless it somehow is too high.

It’s a common practice for the basement slab to be poured so it rests directly on top of the footings. The void space between the footings where you see bare soil should be filled with granular clean fill material. I used washed pea gravel for the homes I built.

Some builders use a mix of sand and gravel. If you see piles of material brought in by dump trucks at your site now that have lots of sand in it, this is what’s going to be used. Be sure this material is compacted before any concrete is poured in your basement.

The pipes you see in the bottom of the footing are most likely passageways that allow ground water that might collect under the slab to flow toward the foundation walls. If your builder is doing a great job, you should see a few of these pipes under the footings that are below the outer foundation walls.

These pipes on the outer walls should be located on the side of the house that faces the lowest spot on your lot. Assuming there is fall or slope to your lot, the builder will hopefully dig a trench at some point and place a drain pipe that connects to the drain tile pipe that surrounds your foundation.

This pipe in the trench is the conduit through which groundwater passes so it doesn’t enter your basement. All too often most builders don’t install this very important drainage feature. The pipe will eventually exit at ground level and water will flow from it in periods of wet weather. Make sure it happens on your job.

Column 1146

Milwaukee 16 Gauge Angled Finish Nailer 2742-21CT Review

I've been reviewing Milwaukee tools for about six or more years. I've used them for decades as a master plumber and builder.

If you're not familiar with Milwaukee's pedigree because you're just discovering power tools, they focused on power tools for plumbers and electricians for decades.

Along the way, they've figured out how to make perhaps the best electric motors, the best cordless batteries and the best micro computers inside the tools to protect your investment.

The Milwaukee upper management decided, my guess is four years ago in 2012, they were going to expand past their comfort zone and start to make power tools for the other trades. Carpentry was a natural extension.

This new 16 gauge angled finish nailer of theirs is a debutant. While it's a gorgeous piece of eye candy, it's not the belle of the ball. That's just one man's opinion of course.

Milwaukee angled finish nailer

Decades of Experience

I'm one of the very few members of the media here in 2016 that has decades and decades of experience working with nail guns on real jobs in the homes of real paying customers.

Many of my peers, I hate to say this, are hobby bloggers with other day jobs. Quite a few of them have never in their lives had to make a living using power tools on real jobs. When you read their reviews, you have to wonder how they have the experience to evaluate a tool.

If you stumble across other tool reviews at other websites, be sure you go find their About Us page. Go there and read about the person who's writing the review to see what qualifies them to give you great advice about tools. But I digress.

The Gold Standard

In just about every category of anything, there's the gold standard product. Of course it's often subjective, but there are quite a few objective comparison points you can put side by side.

In the world of carpentry, there are quite a few carpenters that will tell you that Paslode has enjoyed being king of the hill for quite a few years. Their nail guns provide excellent visibility, renowned reliability, and excellent value.

Paslode's 16-gauge angled finish nailer has been one of my go-to tools for years. It's a lean, mean fighting machine that weighs only 4.5 pounds.

Their downside is the power source. You need to purchase propane gas cylinders to provide the energy to drive the nails.

Milwaukee decided to forgo that and just use electrons to drive nails. That's good.

But the new Milwaukee 16-gauge angled nailer weighs an astounding 60 percent more than the Paslode nailer. That's bad - very bad.

The Target

When driving finish nails, you need to see where the nail is going to go. That's not an issue with the Paslode nailer. It's somewhat problematic with this new Milwaukee 16-gauge nailer. The visibility is better than their new 18-gauge brad nailer, but it's not perfect (in my opinion).

Summary

I love Milwaukee as a company. It's my job to tell you the truth about things. It's my obligation to temper initial excitement about new tools with years of using similar tools and what you need to have to get excellent results.

When it comes to nail guns, the two most important things are weight and visibility. If you're going to use a tool all day, you need one that minimizes fatigue. Fatigue leads to mistakes and injuries. Fatigue can cause you to drive a nail wrong in a $100 piece of trim ruining it. Fatigue can cause a tool to drive a nail in flesh and bone.

Visibility is the most important quality of a nail gun. You need to be able to see exactly where the nail will go without the need of a LED light, without having to angle your head, without craning your neck, etc.

Milwaukee, in my opinion, needs to correct these flaws with their 16-gauge angled finish nailer. 

Remember, if you read glowing reviews about this tool on other websites, be sure you go to their About Us page and see how many decades the reviewer spent being a carpenter using nail guns. You need to vet tool reviewers just like you vet any person who's advice you're thinking of following before investing time and money.

Trust a Builder

This is a special column about trust. It was inspired by no less than three emails and one phone call I had with visitors to my AsktheBuilder.com website and this column that appears in your paper.

Lynn, who is building a new home in Santa Fe, New Mexico, is now wringing her hands each day wondering if her new home is going to be her dream home or become a hellish nightmare. The trust she placed in here builder dissolved in a matter of moments on the first day of the job when the excavator dug the hole for her slab too deep.

The builder goofed up and dug too deep. This early mistake dissolved Lynn Adam’s trust in his abilities. Photo Credit: Lynn Adams

The builder goofed up and dug too deep. This early mistake dissolved Lynn Adam’s trust in his abilities. Photo Credit: Lynn Adams

We worked all our lives for this house,” she told me. Can you imagine being in this situation? When you have hundreds of thousands of dollars hanging in the balance and not much time to play catch-up baseball, it has to be exceedingly stressful.

Dorina and her ailing husband love to sit outdoors in the fresh air at their Pennsylvania home. They hired a contractor to install a new septic tank. Once he completed the work, the odor outdoors was unbearable. They no longer could invite friends over to spend time sitting on the patio.

The contractor promised he’d provide valuable paperwork about the new installation so when it came time to sell their home, they could prove the tank was the right size and all work was done correctly. Dorina is still waiting for the paperwork.

Lee just contacted me overnight from Baltimore. He hired a contractor to install a stunning marble floor in a bathroom. The contractor installed a cracked piece of marble and when Lee requested it be replaced, they got into an argument.

The contractor finally relented, took out a hammer and shattered the cracked tile. But in the process he cracked adjacent pieces of marble. I could go on, but I feel you have all you need to know about this situation.

Because of my syndicated column and website, I’m in a unique position. I’m one of the funnels through which many contractor / homeowner horror stories pass through. Unfortunately, I’m observing a disturbing trend of more and more people losing vast sums of money each day because they trusted the job would get done right. The homeowners hoped everything would work out okay.

It’s time for some tough love and I beg that you consider what I’m about to share. As with many things in life, the great things just don’t come to you. You generally have to work for them. You have to put in the time. You have to put in effort to get the reward.

The same is true when it comes to hiring a contractor. I want you to stop trusting that a contractor will do what he says he’ll do. I want you to never hope that your job is going to turn out right. Hope is the emotion of last resort. You hope for things when you can’t control the outcome.

You can control the outcome of your job. Lynn, Dorina and Lee could have all selected contractors that would put a smile on their faces each day when they reviewed the work.

Here’s the CliffsNotes version of how to spot a possible shady or unethical contractor:

  • He waffles about putting things in writing in the contract.
  • He asks for lots of money up front even though he doesn’t pay his workers, suppliers or anyone else in advance.
  • He plays the scarcity card with an offer that’s only good if you sign NOW.

Here’s how to spot an ethical and professional contractor:

  • He gladly puts every aspect of the work in writing because he wants you to know what you’re getting.
  • He only asks for money up front if he needs to order special-order, non-returnable items. He’s got good credit and he has plenty of money in his business account to float your job for weeks at a time.
  • He doesn’t pressure you to sign a contract because he usually has a backlog of work for months.

Remember the time I talked about that you need to invest? Here’s what I was talking about. For starters, you need to create your own description or specifications before you ever invite a contractor over to your home. You need to know what items you’re going to have installed. You then read the written installation instructions so you know exactly how the job needs to be done to preserve the warranty.

You need to write down all the items you want used including the manufacturer and model number. Why? This prevents a contractor coming to you after the job has started with his sob story that he had no idea it was going to take so much time to do something. Too bad, so sad. It was his job to read your simple job description.

Realize that trust needs to be earned. The contractor needs to prove to you that he can be trusted. What’s that old saying? Actions speak louder than words.

Don’t be lulled by any Jedi mind tricks that flow from a slick contractor’s mouth. Be brave instead and do your due diligence before your doorbell rings.

Column 1145

May 22, 2016 AsktheBuilder Newsletter

Next weekend is the unofficial start to summer and while you may be celebrating at a picnic or on a boat, it's more of a subdued bittersweet weekend for my sister and me.

A week from tomorrow is Memorial Day - the day we honor those who gave the ultimate sacrifice - their LIVES - so I can type whatever I want in this email newsletter and so you can say whatever you want outdoors.

My dad is one of those men and women who gave the ultimate sacrifice so you can experience freedom every day, although he didn't give up his life on the battlefield or next to it.

While he did receive a wound in battle from a bullet, his injuries were primarily psychological. They were caused by what he saw as a medic in General Bradley's army and then what happened to him while a POW for 13 months growing potatoes for the German Army in a Polish stalag.

My dad hung on for 29 years before the Grim Reaper finally ripped him from us. The PTSD he suffered was directly responsible for his death.

I'm sharing all this with you but for one reason.

The liberty you have each day - assuming you live here in the USA - is precious and it came at a very high cost.

Take some time out next weekend and visit a cemetery that's got lots of veteran graves. Stroll through it and thank those that gave their lives so you can bask in life, liberty and the pursuit of happiness each day.

If you can't go to a cemetery for any number of reasons, CLICK HERE to watch a travel video that has some decent footage of the US military cemetery at Normandy, France.

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CLICK HERE to see if you know the BEST way to install foundation drain tile. If you got an A+, reply to me.
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DR Power Grader Review

On Friday morning, I taped a video showing how to transform your rutted gravel driveway or parking lot into what it looked like the day it was installed. I used this cool tool.

This grader has a wireless remote fob that allows you to raise and lower the carbide cutting teeth!!!! VERY COOL.

CLICK HERE to watch the video. Do you know about black flies and New Hampshire in the spring? At the end of the video, you get to see and hear a few of these wretched creatures.

It was a dream to operate behind Bob's small tractor.

CLICK HERE to see all the specs about this amazing tool that will restore your rutted gravel drive or parking lot.

If you're a NEW SUBSCRIBER, last fall I had the opportunity to meet two of the team members of DR.

They're a Vermont company and they came to demonstrate an AMAZING walk-behind String Trimmer.

I FELL IN LOVE with this easy-to-use string trimmer. It's perfect to cut down beefy weeds and tall grass that's beyond the scope of a lawn mower.

CLICK HERE and you'll be able to use the DR search engine to locate the string trimmer.

If you want the Power Grader, it's on sale now, $300 off, for just the next week.

CLICK HERE to order one now.

Loyd the Inventor Reminder

On Friday I shared a story with you about Loyd who lives in Oslo, Norway.

He's invented a very cool tool you could use. I know I can.

I backed his project on Kickstarter.

You should too. If you can SPREAD the WORD about this project to your friends and neighbors, that would be great.

CLICK HERE to watch a short video about Loyd's DrumRoll invention.

Consider donating one cup of your designer coffee to Loyd in the form of a donation. Yes, you can pledge just $2 to Loyd.

Repair Spalling Concrete

Here's a new column that describes how to fix a spalling concrete surface.

It's not as hard as you might think.

CLICK HERE to discover the magic product to use!!!

STOP WET BASEMENTS!!!!

Do you have a wet basement or crawlspace?

Does your sump pump run and run and run driving you nuts?

I have a DVD that can take all your pain away.

My college degree was in geology with a focus on hydrogeology and geomorphology.

One is the study of ground water and the other is the study of the shape of the Earth - or the ground around your home.

CLICK HERE NOW to get the DVD and soon your basement will be as dry as the Atacama Desert.

READ the testimonial there from Fred who is the owner of the Atwood Inn B&B. He used the information in the DVD to stop water that had been plaguing his basement for over 100 years!!!!

The DVD is on sale now and you can SAVE $8.

BUY it NOW. This is a professionally manufactured DVD and it's an awesome product.

That's enough for a Sunday. I'm off to tape the drywall in the basement bathroom here.

It's also my son's birthday and I'm baking him some delicious orange rolls as part of his special day. Time to turn on the oven and preheat it!

Tim Carter
Founder - www.AsktheBuilder.com

Do It Right, Not Over!

May 20, 2016 AsktheBuilder Newsletter

I'm finally starting to get back in the groove from my ten-day vacation / business trip out to California.

You may have been one who asked me to post a few photos of what I saw with my youngest daughter Kelly. Here's one taken at Barker Dam at Joshua Tree National Park.
Barker Dam at Joshua Tree National Park
Here's one I took at Death Valley, now my favorite national park. I was at Dante's View, thousands of feet above Badwater Basin, the lowest spot in the USA. Somewhere out in that white salt flat, there's a spot that's 282 feet below sea level.
Death Valley

If you've not visited the national parks in the western USA, I urge you to try to make it happen. Your blood pressure will go down and you'll have a new appreciation for what's truly good in life.

Loyd the Inventor

A few days ago, I received an email from Loyd. He's a clever man that lives in Oslo, Norway, and he's got a very simple thing you probably should have in your garage, truck or car. Actually you may need several.

Loyd needs your help and mine to make his invention become reality and it's one I believe really deserves your attention.

He's got his project up on Kickstarter, one of the few crowd-funding websites. If you're a seasoned subscriber to this newsletter, you'll remember I did three successful projects on Kickstarter, the biggest one being my awesome shed.

Loyd has created a fascinating small tool he calls DrumRoll that allows you to roll up the PESKY long pieces of strapping that are part of the fabric ratcheting clamps. I know I have this problem!!!! Do you?

Here's what you need to know about inventors.

I get at least TWO requests a month from Kickstarter people trying to get me to tell you about their products.

I've turned all the others down so far because I just didn't feel they were that great of a product.

Loyd's invention got my attention because I know I struggle with the ratchet straps all the time. I also like how simplistic and useful the invention is.

You should really consider helping out Loyd.

Even if you don't need one and just think he deserves a chance, you can donate just $2 to his cause. If you do that, each person who gets a DrumRoll will see your name on a roll of paper inside the DrumRoll! How cool is that?????

You can get the DrumRoll in two colors. The green color is a LIMITED edition so you need to ACT NOW if you want it in green. CLICK HERE NOW to get the green DrumRoll.

If you don't want your DrumRoll in green, you can get the high-visibility orange like you see in the photo above. That's the one I want because I love that shade of orange.

To see how the DrumRoll works, CLICK HERE and watch Loyd's cool video.

I'm serious - PLEASE consider helping Loyd. This is a very good cause and I'm supporting him. I'm excited about receiving my DrumRoll so I don't have anymore strap messes in my trailer and pickup truck!

Dorina Got RIPPED OFF

Dorina did a phone consult with me yesterday. She had a horrible sewer and septic tank odor problem I solved in less than fifteen minutes.

As she told me her story, it became very evident that she got ripped off by the man that installed her new septic tank.

I won't go into the messy details but here's what you need to do.

STOP BEING SO TRUSTING!

Dorina and her husband TRUSTED the installer that he'd do what he said he would do.

So far he hasn't. The evil installer also pulled a fast one just after he pulled out the old septic tank. He then informed Dorina that he has to dig deeper to install the new tank.

With the old tank out of the ground and NO WAY to flush toilets in the house, Dorina and her husband were in a pickle. The installer pulled the classic SCARCITY card on them. Use of a toilet was scarce and the installer knew it.

Any GOOD INSTALLER would have known before the job started how deep he's got to go. All costs would have been included. There would have been no surprises.

Here's what you need to know about GOOD CONTRACTORS:

  • They have NO PROBLEMS with you putting everything in writing in a contract.
  • They encourage you to do it.
  • They won't offer resistance if you ask to put everything in writing.

CROOKS are the ones who squirm and squeal when you ask to put things in writing.

Stain Solver REMINDER

It's time to clean decks. It's time to clean patios. It's time to clean boats. It's time to clean outdoor siding.

CLICK HERE to see a photo I received yesterday from Pat. She used my Stain Solver certified organic oxygen bleach to SAFELY clean her painted fiber cement siding!

It looks NEW!

CLICK HERE to see a 30-year-old special hand-stitched pillow stored in an attic that had a terrible stain in it. Diana got the stain out with Stain Solver.

CLICK HERE to see John's teak picnic table he cleaned with Stain Solver.

Bottom Line: Stain Solver is NON TOXIC and will clean composite decks, docks, algae from patios, etc. outdoors.

GET YOURS NOW before Memorial Day!

CLICK HERE to order. Kathy and I own Stain Solver. We've been selling it since 1996.

Love it or List It and the Law

Are you addicted to HGTV shows?

A popular one called Love It or List It is making a little news.

CLICK HERE to read about it and thank your lucky stars your home is not ever featured in any of these shows.

Believe me, there are MANY HORROR stories like this out there about homeowners who are victims of shoddy workmanship that are the centerpiece of some home improvement TV show.

I'm here to tell you that the magic of video editing can hide many, many, many defects that you have no idea exist. It's all about glamour.

Many of these shows use the same brain trickery that happens when you watch magic. Your brain is putting things together that really aren't there.

Thanks to Frank Towle for alerting me about this news item.

Happy Weekend

I'm about to go tape a video about a very cool road grader you use to SMOOTH gravel driveways and parking lots.

I've got a half-mile gravel road going up to my property here in New Hampshire and believe me, it needs to be graded after months of winter plowing and abuse.

PLEASE GO help Loyd. If nothing else, donate a measly $2 so his DrumRoll is a huge success. That's less than what you'd spend on a cup of coffee for goodness sakes.

Tim Carter
Founder - www.AsktheBuilder.com

Do It Right, Not Over!

Drain Tile Installation

drain tile installation

The builder is doing just about everything right installing this drain tile. Photo Credit: Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: My last house had a basement that leaked water. I’m building a new home and want my basement as dry as the Atacama Desert. I’m confident that my drain tile was not put in correctly at my last house. What are the best practices when installing drain tile around a foundation? What materials would you use? What are the biggest mistakes you can make when installing foundation drain tile? Beverly H., Falls River, MA

DEAR BEVERLY: You’ve touched on a subject that’s near and dear to my heart. My college degree is in geology with a special interest in two things: geomorphology and hydrogeology. Those are fancy words for the study of the surface of the earth and the study of ground water. Both of those disciplines are in play when it comes to foundation drain tile.

The last home I built for my family had a basement as dry as the Atacama Desert. It wasn’t hard to achieve this and sadly most builders either don’t understand how to do it or they decided to go cheap at this phase of the construction.

Foundation waterproofing is a place you never want to go cheap or cut corners. The reason is simple. It’s extremely expensive and disruptive to have to go back at a later date and correct poor workmanship. Can you imagine digging up around your foundation after a house is built? You could be removing porches, tearing up sidewalks, driveways, expensive landscaping, rupturing buried utilities, etc.

If you want to go cheap and save money, then do it with your bathroom vanity faucet or any other thing in your home that you can replace at a later date with minimal work and effort. There are quite a few things you can do to save money on a home and come back a few years later to upgrade with relative ease as more money becomes available.

When it comes to foundation drain tile, let’s start first with the pipe. I happen to prefer the white 4-inch plastic pipe that comes with two rows of pre-drilled holes. I don’t like the corrugated pipe with the slits in it.

I’ve always installed the pipe with the holes oriented in the down position and lay the pipe on 2 inches of washed gravel that about the size of grapes. In the Midwest you normally find this gravel and its rounded. In other parts of the nation you may get similar sized stone, but it’s angular because they make it by crushing larger stone. No matter what type you use, just be sure that the gravel has no smaller pieces of stone or sand in it. You want all the stones to be the size of a grape or maybe a little larger. Water flows through this stone very fast.

I prefer to lay the drain tile along the side of the foundation footer, not on top of it. I want the level of the ground water to be as low as possible and placing the drain tile pipe on top of the footer usually forces the ground water table up to within a few inches of the top of the basement slab.

It’s vitally important that you apply true foundation waterproofing compound to the foundation walls as part of this system. That’s a subject for another column. Understand that simple hot asphalt spray is not waterproofing. It’s damp-proofing. There are rubberized asphalt-based waterproofing products that do work well.

The next step is to cover the drain tile with plenty of gravel. One of my customers years ago was so concerned about water leakage that he paid the extra money to backfill the foundation wall to within 6 inches of the final grade with the gravel. This was a little expensive, but it’s the best practice.

On most of my jobs I covered the foundation drain tile pipe with 30 inches of the washed gravel. The next step is mission critical. It’s vital that you cover the gravel with some material that captures the fine silt that will be present in the backfill dirt. I tried two things and they both worked well. I would scatter a 1-foot layer of straw on the gravel or I’d lay a piece of 30-pound asphalt-saturated felt paper on top of the gravel.

Realize when you dig up dirt it gets fluffed up. The volume increases usually by about ten percent and you disturb and free up fine silt. When this dirt is put back in a hole it settles. As rain passes through the dirt, it carries fine silt with it as it compacts the soil. This silt will readily clog drain tile pipe and the gravel rendering them ineffective. It’s mandatory that you protect the gravel and the pipe from this wretched silt.

You should also employ Mother Nature to help keep your new basement dry. This is where the geomorphology comes in. In a perfect world, you should build on a lot where the lowest part of your lot is at least three feet lower than the bottom of your foundation.

This allows you to use gravity to drain any water that makes it to your drain tile and is flowing through it. If you have a properly sloped lot, then the drain tile pipe is buried and extends all the way to a low point where it exits on the surface.

Many builders pipe this foundation drain tile to a sump and then it needs to be pumped out of the house. The issue with electric-powered sump pumps is they tend to fail in severe storms when the power goes out. This is when you most need a sump pump!

Column 1144

May 15, 2016 AsktheBuilder Newsletter

I'll make this as fast as possible. I've got two pretty important tool / product reviews for you.

They're both SHOCKING, but for different reasons.

The links to them are below.

But first, I want to share a quick story of where I was yesterday.

Several days ago, I was hired by a homeowner who lives about an hour's drive from my house here in central New Hampshire (NH).

I've done a bad job of letting you know that I do consulting, but realize if you want me to come to your home, it's possible - even if you live thousands of miles away.

But I digress.

The owners of the house wanted me to look at rotting wood, crumbling fiber cement siding and roof leaks on their magnificent home.

The wife also was complaining about an ice-cold bathroom. I told her I had the solution to that and it was EASY to do!

I have to tell you that when you drive past certain drives in NH, don't for a minute think that a shack or a trailer might be around the bend or up at the top of the hill.

Their home was STUNNING. It was to be their dream home.

However, certain defects in the construction have turned into a nightmare.

The builder of the home used a finger-jointed wood product that was really popular here in NH, and other parts of the USA, the past fifteen years.

This CRAP is even on my own home. Remember, I didn't build the house I live in up here. I'm trying to change that, but that's a story for another day.

The issue with this crap wood trim product is that it's made from a hybridized tree that grows FAST.

This means there's lots of porous light-colored spring wood in it. Spring wood is the wood that grows as the tree puts on growth in the spring. As the year progresses and summer sets in, tree growth typically slows down. Usually there's less water and the growth becomes denser and darker in color.

When you look at the end of a log it takes a light and a dark ring to account for a given year's total growth.

The rot problems could be traced to two major mistakes on the part of the builder:

  • He didn't provide the necessary 1-inch overhang of the shingles on the bottom and side rake edges of the roof.
  • He didn't put up gutters to capture and divert the roof water that was splashing down onto hard surfaces like the driveway, sidewalks, rear decks and whatnot.

This splashing water was saturating the wood and fiber cement siding and causing serious rot.

What's the takeaway?

This couple TRUSTED the builder was good. They TRUSTED the builder was going to do the right thing.

The issue with this is that the builder may have been doing things WRONG his entire career. I feel this is the case here.

How do you AVOID these nightmares?

You need to educate yourself on basic best practices of building and be sure you have fantastic written specifications for your building or remodeling project.

The repairs to this house are going to cost at least $35,000, or more, by the time they get everything complete.

The sad thing is that it should have NEVER been an issue if just a few simple things had been done right ten years ago when the house was built.

Tool and Product Reviews

CLICK HERE now to read my review about the new Milwaukee 18-Gauge Brad Nailer that just uses electricity to drive a nail!

CLICK HERE to read my review about unbelievable Gorilla Step Ladders and Work Platforms.

GREAT PHOTOS are in both reviews.

I GUARANTEE you'll be surprised at both reviews.

That's enough for a Sunday.

READ BOTH REVIEWS ABOVE!!!!!

Tim Carter
Founder - www.AsktheBuilder.com

Do It Right, Not Over!

Gorilla Fiberglass Hybrid Ladder Review

Gorilla Ladder products

Here are the four Gorilla Ladder products. CLICK the image to BUY them. Photo credit: Tim Carter

Yesterday the Fed-Ex man dropped off a Gorilla Fiberglass Hybrid Ladder.

To be honest, he dropped off four Gorilla Ladder products!

CLICK these following links to BUY these amazing products:

At the time this review was written, there were no links on Amazon.com for the work platforms.

I didn't think it was possible to improve upon a simple thing like a step ladder.

I was WRONG.

I've used step ladders for over fifty years. I had become numb to how they work and figured you'd always have to struggle to open and close them.

I figured you'd always have to put up with how heavy and bulky they are, especially the non-conductive fiberglass step ladders.

The Gorilla Hybrid Ladders SHATTER all those stereotypes.

Within seconds of opening the nice shipping boxes, I quickly discovered these are ladders I'd NEVER allow anyone to borrow and I'd most certainly use them before any other ladder.

They were:

  • light
  • well-built
  • easy to open and close with one hand
  • sturdy
  • not bulky

These have excellent standing platforms as you get up off the normal steps. This leads to less fatigue.

The tops of the ladders have great slots and holes to help you manage your tools safely.

The work platforms have all the same features and benefits as the ladders. I don't even think I'd let my kids borrow these things even though the ladders and platforms are practically indestructible.

I'll let the photos do the rest of the job of telling you about these great products.

By the way, the aluminum ladder is my FAVORITE. I don't allow anyone in the house to touch it much less use it. It's feather-light, yet strong and sturdy.

CLICK or TAP HERE NOW to have the aluminum ladder delivered to you.

Gorilla Ladders

CLICK the image to BUY this ladder now. Photo credit: Tim Carter

ladder rivet gorilla

ladder top view

Look at all the places you can put tools. The large hole in the lower right is for a drill or impact driver chuck. The large center recess is for a gallon paint can. CLICK THE IMAGE TO BUY the ladder. Photo credit: Tim Carter

Gorilla Work Platform

Here's the work platform. It's huge and has a handy step for you to use to get up and off of it safely without blowing out a knee. Photo credit: Tim Carter

Platform Lock

When you extend the legs out on the platform, they LOCK in place so the platform doesn't collapse if you rock back and forth. You press in this yellow button so the legs can be folded back to store the platform. Photo credit: Tim Carter

Milwaukee 18 Gauge Brad Nailer Review

I'm going to preface this tool review with a couple of comments.

First and foremost, Milwaukee has a deep legacy of making superb power tools. I've used them for decades.

I'm fortunate to be a member of the working press and have been invited to quite a few Milwaukee Tool media events in the past few years. I've watched with fascination over this short time as they've decided to leave their decades-old comfort zone and expand from their traditional plumbers and electricians tool lines into the other trades including one dear to my heart - carpentry.

As you might expect, you could stumble if you decide to make tools for one trade that you've never made before. Unfortunately, this is the case with the new Milwaukee 18-gauge brad nailer 2740-21CT.

As a master carpenter for the past thirty years, I can tell you unequivocally this electric-powered nailer is just not ready for prime time. Just like the first version of many different computer software V 1.0 products can be full of bugs, so too the first version of this 18-gauge power tool.

Truth About Tool Reviews

I've used all the different nail guns for decades. My guess is I've driven well over 100,000 nails with nail guns based on the number of large boxes of nails I've purchased!

What's more, I'm in a very small minority. I'm one of the few people in the media that's got decades of real power tool experience. For over twenty years I had to use power tools six days of the week to make a living working in and on the homes of paying customers. In my opinion, that's how you measure a true professional - one who's had to make a living getting paid to do something.

WARNING: Many of the other people out there reviewing tools don't have this experience. In fact, many of them are hobby bloggers that have their tool review websites as a pastime. Many of these reviewers get a power tool from a manufacturer and within hours or a few days they have a review posted with great photos of the tool. They've not put the tool to the test on a real job site for weeks at a time.

You can easily check to see if a tool review website is worthy of your attention. Just go to the About Us page at the tool review site you're on and look for a photo of the person writing the reviews.

The next step is to read their bios to see how many years they worked as a carpenter, plumber, electrician, remodeler, etc. If they can't prove to you that they use, or have may years of using, power tools in the homes of paying customers, I maintain their review may not be worthy of your attention.

When I get a tool to review I actually use it. I put it through all the steps one might in the real world. This extra work pays off because you may be one like Ehren Q. below who left a comment about this review. Here's what he had to say:

"I've just broke mine from the box this week. Ive been punching about 5/6 nails. You were spot on by saying the area of vision was poor as well. Sure there is a light that is convenient, but it lights up a large metal tip.

I greatly appreciate your honest review as every other review I've read is saying this is a FANTASTIC tool, it's not. If I had the ability to return it I would."

My Nail Gun History

I clearly remember purchasing my first Senco pneumatic framing nailer years ago. It didn't take long for me to acquire many different nailers for both rough and finish work because these tools are such time savers and they can drive nails better than you can with a hammer. What's more, many of the nails have an adhesive on them and they hold better than a hand-driven nail.

A few years down the road in the late 1980's I made the transition from pneumatic nail guns to Paslode nailers that were powered by a tiny internal combustion engine. There was no need for a heavy, noisy compressor and gangly air hoses that were constant trip hazards and often got covered with mud. From the time you took a Paslode nail gun from its case, you'd be firing it in about ten seconds or less. 

Milwaukee got this part of the tool right, in fact they improved upon it because their new 18-gauge nailer only requires electricity to operate where the Paslode tools I used for decades, and continue to use, require electricity and small cartridges filled with propane. But I digress.

Hitting the Target

What you discover very quickly when using a nail gun is that it's vitally important for you to know exactly where the nail is going to go.

When you nail by hand, unless your eyesight is poor, your one hand places the point of the nail precisely where you want to drive it. Assuming you strike the nail squarely with a hammer and your other hand helps to hold the nail in place, the nail will go exactly where it needs to go.

With a nail gun, you must have a design that allows you to see the target area exactly where the point of the nail will go once you pull the trigger.

When driving nails into rough lumber, you can afford to be off say 3/8 of an inch. When you drive a standard 16-gauge finish nail, you can maybe afford to be off target about 1/8 inch.

However, when you drive a tiny 18-gauge brad nail, that margin for error drops to about 1/16th inch because your dealing with small trim wood such as the outside corners of crown molding or some other secondary trim lumber molding.

If you can't see where the nail is going to go, you could ruin a cabinet, an expensive piece of trim, etc. with just one squeeze of the trigger.

Firing Blind

The first thing I did when I opened this new Milwaukee 18-gauge brand nailer was hold it up to a 2x3 shelf support that's above one of my work benches. I wanted to see two things - how it felt and how well I could see where it was going to nail.

I was astonished by two things.

First, the tool is heavy - noticeably heavier than my Paslode 18-gauge brad nailer.

Second, I couldn't see where the nail was going to go. The entire tip of the tool was bulbous black and created a dark space where who knows where the nail would go.

It's best illustrated by photos. Here are two photos taken at the same angle while holding both tools as you would just before activating the trigger to fire the nail.

I attempted to take the photos in such a way as to represent exactly what I see with my eye as I look at the tool while using it. I did this using a stationary tripod to hold the camera and I placed the tools in the exact same spot over the tiny red cross that was my visual target.

interior door casing

This is a piece of interior door casing in my home. I made a red cross with a fine permanent marker. The lines are about 3/8-inch long in each direction. This is the target area the nail needs to hit. Photo credit: Tim Carter

Keep in mind that when you use a brad nailer that your margin of error is small. Much smaller than the target above.

gold standard brad nailer

This is the gold standard brad nailer in my opinion. It's the Paslode 18-gauge brand nailer. Had I pulled the trigger the nail would absolutely hit the center of the target. You can see the horizontal red line and the top half of the vertical line. The orange protective nosing on the tool has sight lines you line up so the nail goes exactly where you want it. Photo credit: Tim Carter

 

Milwaukee 18-gauge brad nailer

Here is the Milwaukee 18-gauge brad nailer. You can't even see the target. It's somewhere under all that metal that forms the nose of the gun. The tool was aligned exactly as the Paslode gun was in the above photo. You have no idea if the nail will go where you want it to go. Photo credit: Tim Carter

nail gun

Here's how I took the above photos. The camera was locked in position in all directions and could not move. The only thing that could move was the nail gun. Photo credit: Tim Carter

Tool Weight:

The two tools are not even in the same ballpark when it comes to weight.

Paslode says their tool weighs 4.9 pounds. My postal scale agrees with that with it coming in, including battery and propane cylinder at 4 pounds 14 ounces.

The Milwaukee 18-gauge brand nailer tips the scales at a beefy 6 pounds 13 ounces. Two pounds makes an enormous difference.

Number of Nails per Charge

Milwaukee says their tool will drive 1,200 nails if the battery is fully charged. I'll take their word for it as I'm not about to waste those many nails, since none came with the tool, and I don't have that kind of time.

Paslode says their tool will drive 12,000 nails per charge of their lithium-ion battery. Granted, the small propane cartridges will need to be changed out, but that takes about 30 seconds. If you don't have a spare Milwaukee battery, you're going to be taking one long 30-minute coffee break as you wait for their battery to get topped off.

Nails

I was very disappointed that the Milwaukee nail gun didn't come with one or two starter strips of nails. How frustrating if you purchase this as a gift for someone, they open it and they can't use it right away. Come on Milwaukee, the nails would cost you maybe a dime.

SUMMARY:

I don't particularly like writing reviews like this, but I feel it's really important for you and Milwaukee. You need to know that there are vast differences in tools that do the same job.

Milwaukee hopefully will take away from this that they should talk to seasoned pros who can tell them the best features of existing tools and the deal breakers that must be avoided when designing a tool from scratch.

Had they hired me many months ago when they were in the initial stages of designing this tool, I would have brought my Paslode gun to the meeting and drawn a few red crosses on a piece of woodwork and said, "Here, line up the cross with these marks on the orange rubber pad. When you think you have it, press the tool to the wood and pull the trigger."

I can tell you for a fact the product manager at Milwaukee would have put his first Paslode nail within 1/16th inch of the center of the red cross.

I would have then said, "Make sure you have that same visibility with your tool." Period

Mentioned in the May 15, 2016 AsktheBuilder Newsletter.