Security Cameras

Posted on January 14, 2008 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: My wife wants me to install security cameras in and around our home as I travel on business quite frequently. Are wireless security cameras the way to go or should I consider wired home security cameras? Do you have to buy separate outdoor security cameras so I can view certain parts of my yard at night? How do you record what the cameras see? Greg H., Wooster, OH

DEAR GREG: Security cameras for home use are gaining in popularity. Years ago, you had to have a certain skill set to be able to install a grouping of home security cameras. But technology has advanced to a degree that you can purchase a home security camera kit that has everything you need to install cameras, digitally record what they see and even watch the images of all the cameras at once in real time. If you really want to make sure your wife is safe, you can watch things going on at your home while you are out of town on business!

The home security cameras I have at my own home are very interesting. These security cameras record in full color and produce stunning clarity using natural available light. My cameras are equipped with infrared sensors that allow them to see at night nearly as well as they do in the daytime. To put it mildly, I am amazed at the quality of the images produced by the cameras.

This color security camera is smaller than a can of soup, but it produces clear images in natural light or even total darkness! PHOTO CREDIT: Tim Carter

Wireless security cameras are something you should look at if you need to install a security camera in a location that will be hard to extend thin video cables. Many of the compact home security cameras need a power supply and an additional cable that transmits the video signal back to a monitor or a recording device. Installing the cables so they are hidden can be challenging, so this is why many people are attracted to the convenience of wireless security cameras. But keep in mind these cameras need to have a power supply that can be batteries or a low-voltage cable from a nearby transformer.

Watch Tim's Video on Security Cameras. Click to play.

Many of the cameras kits you can buy have security cameras than can be used either indoors or outdoors. Outdoor security cameras are usually clearly marked for outdoor use. To minimize moisture problems, try to mount the cameras so they are protected by an overhang that will keep them dry from all but the most-violent wind-driven rain.

Be sure you look at home security cameras that are equipped with infrared sensors that give the cameras night-vision capability. My cameras that have this allow me to see my yard at night even when there is no moon in the sky. I am constantly amazed at all of the things I can see outdoors in the dark. You can buy a small camera that is rated for outdoor use, transmits in full color, has night vision and is smaller than a soup can.

The images the cameras see can be recorded on a powerful digital video recorder (DVR). I have a DVR that will record the images from four cameras at the same time. I can set the DVR to record only if the cameras sense motion, it can be set to take still shots every few seconds or it can record all it sees. The size of the hard drive inside the DVR can be huge so that you can record for weeks without recording over images.

There are many other options and recording features you can get with modern home security cameras. The best part is they are affordable, especially when you buy them in a kit. One of the kits I prefer has four indoor/outdoor color cameras that have motion sensing and night vision. You also get a fancy monitor and a high-powered DVR that allows you to record up to 55 days of images.

This kit can be connected to the Internet so you can view the images from a remote location. It can also send email alerts with image shots if you want to know when something happens that the cameras see. You can bet I will be installing this kit to watch over the jobsite of my new home as it is being built. Can you imagine how cool it would be to know when someone pulls up the road to the site or when someone is snooping around in the dark? The cameras would allow me to call the police from 1,000 miles away.

You do not need to be an electronics genius to setup and record images with these home security cameras. In less than an hour, you can have a kit unpacked, cameras in place and recording.

Many of the kits have all of the parts you need. It only takes a few skills to make the connections and be up and running. With a little effort, you can have images streaming out on the Internet so that you or a group of friends can view what the cameras see.

Remember that you must respect the privacy of others and do not record images that you have no rights to. When used properly, security cameras are powerful tools. Use that power wisely and responsibly.

Column 709

Plumbing Tools

Posted on January 7, 2008 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: You may not like this, but I am about to attempt some diy plumbing. I have all sorts of plumbing questions, and I need some help selecting some plumbing tools. What are the most important tools you think I should buy? The primary plumbing supplies I will be using are copper tubing for water lines and PVC for the drain lines. What plumbing tools have served you well in your career? Barbara D., Baltimore, MD

DEAR BARBARA: Believe it or not, I have no issues with anyone attempting to do diy plumbing. Even licensed master plumbers, like myself, had to solder their first copper fitting and weld their first PVC joint. But you will learn very quickly that plumbing is a true craft, and that you will not learn how to do it from watching shows on television. What's more, you need to develop a deep respect for the work immediately as your health and that of those around you can be negatively affected if you fail to do all things in strict accordance with all plumbing codes.

Let's talk about some of the basic tools you must have to work with copper tubing. I feel you must have a high-quality tubing cutter. This plumbing tool has a hardened-steel wheel that rotates around the copper tube. As you tighten the tool, the cutting wheel cuts into the copper with each revolution of the tool. The cutter makes precise cuts that are free from burrs you will get if you try to use a hacksaw.

These different plumbing tools have helped do lots of work. PHOTO CREDIT: Tim Carter

To melt the solder that is used to make leak-free joints, you can get by with a propane torch. But if you are thinking about doing lots of solder joints, an acetylene torch will serve you well as it burns hotter than propane. You will also need some small circular wire brushes and abrasive paper, but these are things that wear out and must be replaced on a regular basis.

You will undoubtedly need an assortment of wrenches to round out your plumbing-tool collection. A 14-inch pipe wrench is a great beginner size that will work well in many situations. I would buy an adjustable wrench that will work well on compression nuts and toilet bolts. You might find a need from time to time for an adjustable set of pliers. A basin wrench is a must-have tool. It will allow you to tighten nuts under countertops in that narrow space between the sink and the cabinet.

I will assume you already own different types and sizes of screwdrivers. You will need these for sure. The same is true for a hammer, tape measure, different levels and all personal safety equipment.

You will thank your lucky stars if you can afford a power mitre-box saw, a regular power drill and a right-angle drill. The powerful right-angle drill is made to accept boring bits that make the giant holes for PVC pipes that penetrate wall studs, wall plates and floors.

A power reciprocating saw is a must-have plumbing tool. These saws allow you to make any number of cuts when you are installing all of the pipes before the walls, floors and ceilings are finished.

There are many more specialized tools used by plumbers. I have so many, I sometimes marvel at the investment made over the years. For example, I have a special hand-held flaring tool made just for three-quarter-inch soft copper. The tool is used when you connect a primary water line to a water meter, the actual municipal water valve, or an interior shut-off valve in a home.

Then there are all of the pipe-threading dies I use to thread black-iron pipe for gas line work. The dies, ratchet, pipe vise, cutting tool etc. are all made to work with pipe that must be custom fabricated in each particular home.

Other plumbers could easily expand this plumbing-tool list. There are all sorts of tools you will buy if you really start to enjoy this line of work. I must admit that plumbing work is among that which gives me the greatest amount of satisfaction. There is something that is really special about soldering 50 or more copper fittings over a period of several hours, letting them cool and then turn on the water to see there is not one leak. That is a neat feeling!

I highly recommend buying quality tools. The extra money will give you tools that will not let you down in a time of need, but they will also last for many years. Visit a plumbing supply house that sells nothing but plumbing goods and you will often see the best tools on display.

Be sure to dry plumbing tools that get wet. Most quality tools are made so they have few parts that will rust, but all the same keep old rags handy that you can use to dry your tools. Keep them oiled if necessary to prevent rust when they are stored.

Avoid buying low-cost saw blades. Great saw blades that are more costly will often hold their edge longer and produce straighter cuts.

Column 708

How to Install a Kitchen Faucet Video

Posted on January 3, 2008 by Tim Carter

Installing a kitchen faucet is not as hard as you might think. Discover how to install a faucet as Tim guides you step by step. The first thing to do is to read the printed instructions from the manufacturer. Do not skip this important step.

The opening between the faucet and the countertop, or sink surface, must be sealed. Some faucets come with a built-in thin rubber seal. If the faucet you use does not have a seal, then use a ring of plumber's putty.

Use the large nuts to draw the faucet tight to the countertop. It is best to use a special plumbing basin wrench for this job. The design of the basin wrench allows you to reach the tight space between the sink and the cabinet. The swivel head allows you to use the wrench to tighten or loosen nuts.

The next step is to continue the water supply to the faucet. Tim prefers to use flexible supply lines with a braided stainless steel covering. This acts like armor that keeps the supply line from bursting. The supply lines come in a variety of lengths. Purchase the length the fits your plumbing job. The ends of the supply lines will have different size nuts. The larger nut connects to the brass threads on the valve outlet. The smaller nut is a 3/8 compression nut. This is a common size for shut off valves or fittings that solder to copper pipe.

When installing the supply line between the water line and the faucet, it is important to flush out the water line before connecting the supply lines. Why? Because there can be small pieces of copper shavings, sediment in the water pipe or leftover flux from the soldered connections. You do not want that material to get up into the faucet.

The basin wrench is needed to connect the supply line to the valve outlet. A regular open-end wrench can be used to connect the supply line to the shut-off valve or the water line fitting.

If the faucet comes with a veggie spray, be sure to connect it before turning on the water. Or your cabinet will fill up with water! The first step is to attach the decorative ring to the top of the countertop. Use plumber's putty to create a seal between the ring and the counter. Install the large nut and washer to the underside of the sprayer. Be sure not to over tighten plastic nuts.

Next, feed the flexible hose from the veggie sprayer through the top of the decorative ring down into the cabinet. Apply thread joint compound to the end of the threaded supply tube that feeds water from the faucet to the veggie spray. Tighten the nut on the end of the hose to complete the installation.

If you installed the faucet before installing any of the drain lines (easier to work under the sink without the drain lines in the way), be sure to have a bucket under the faucet when you turn on the water. The bucket will catch the water since the drains have not been installed. Test the faucet and veggie spray. You have completed the kitchen faucet installation. Easy if you take your time and follow the instructions.

Stump Removal Video

Posted on January 1, 2008 by Tim Carter

Stump Removal

"This is crazy." Have you said that when trying to remove a tree stump with a shovel? Some roots can be larger than your leg. Stump removal is a huge job and a shovel may not be the proper tool. Get some heavy equipment to remove the stumps and get them out of the way.

If you have many large tree stumps that you need to remove quickly, one option is to rent medium sized excavating equipment. A skid steer loader and a track excavator back-hoe. If just two people, you can make quick work of large stumps.

The equipment controls might appear confusing at first. But with some instructions and practice, it is easy to get the hang of the equipment.

An effective stump removal method is to use the excavator back-hoe to dig around the sides of the stumps, until they can be popped out of the ground. Then place the stump in the bucket of the skid loader. The loader can move the stumps to the staging area, where the stumps can be trucked off or left to decompose.

With the right equipment and technique, you can remove a lot of stumps in a short period of time. When a shovel can't clear the field, go for the rental equipment.

Mixing Joint Compound Video

Posted on December 31, 2007 by Tim Carter

Mixing Joint Compound Video

Mixing drywall joint compound is a really important step in taping and finishing drywall. You might think that the joint compound is ready to use right from the bucket. But very few professionals would agree with you. Tim will show you how he mixes drywall joint compound before he puts it in his mud pan.

Start with joint compound approved for drywall tape, read the product label and the Gypsum Construction Handbook before starting to work with the compound. The product label will tell you how much water you can add to the compound at a time. Too much water can be a mistake. It can cause too much shrinkage and dilute the adhesive.

Get a clean, five-gallon bucket for mixing the compound. Don’t try to mix a bucket that is filled to the brim, you will have compound everywhere. Scoop out about one or two gallons of joint compound and place it in the clean bucket. Add a small amount of water.

Mixing by hand is hard work. Get a special cast head mixer that will fit into your hand drill. Tighten the mixer in the drill chuck and slower drop the mixer into the joint compound. Turn on the drill slower while holding the bucket tightly between your feet. If you don’t, the bucket can spin out of control.

The joint compound will look like smooth whipped cream in a matter of seconds. The desired consistency is that of cake icing. With the right tools, you can mix drywall joint compound quickly and easily.

Paint Primer

Posted on December 21, 2007 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: The instructions on the can of paint I am getting ready to use say to use a primer paint on bare wood. Is that really necessary? It seems like a waste of time. What are the benefits of using paint primer? I feel the paint company just wants another sale and they are trying to slow me down. I have never used primers before, and the paint I use seems to hold up. If you do convince me, is there a special primer I should use? Jane G., Sierra Vista, AZ

DEAR JACKIE: I am sure the things you painted before survived the lack of primer, but I am here to tell you that the finished product would have been much better had you used a primer. Paint primers are very necessary, and they serve several very important functions.

A paint primer is a special paint. It is formulated to do several mission-critical things, the least of which is create a superior bond to the object being painted. Keep in mind that for all intents and purposes, most paints are simply high-performance coatings that are really glues with color in them. In other words, when applied correctly to the right things, paint can stick or adhere to something for a very long time, just as any glue applied out of a bottle does.

This bare wood door needs a coat of primer to make the finish paint glow. PHOTO CREDIT: Brent Walter

The chemists who work for paint companies formulate primers so they are very sticky. The grab onto surfaces like briars to your pants. What's more, the dried surface of many primers is formulated to physically and chemically bond to the finish paint, if you apply the finish paint within 24 hours of applying the primer.

Certain primer paints also serve two other functions - they seal a porous surface, and they even out the texture of the object so the finish paints think they are being applied over a sheet of glass.

If you were to look at the surface of the wood you are about to paint under a microscope, you would be shocked at how rough it really is, even after you have sanded it. What's more, depending upon the species of wood you are painting and its grain pattern, you can have widely varying levels of porosity between the light grained spring wood and the darker grain bands of summer wood.

If you were to paint over wood without a primer, you might be able to see these grain bands. The finish paint would look dull over the light-colored spring wood, but glossier over the darker bands of wood. This happens because the paints soaks into the light-colored spring wood. A primer-sealer paint seals the surface of wood so the finish paint does not soak into it. This allows you to have even gloss over the wood that is painted.

Many paint primers for wood have lots of dense pigments in them that act as microscopic liquid-spackling compound. The pigments fill in all of the low spots in the wood so the finish paint will look like satin.

Modern primers are often water-based and dry very rapidly. Some can be recoated with finish paint in less than an hour. Using a primer will actually speed up the job, not slow you down.

I urge you to always use a primer if the paint can label suggests it. In fact, pay attention to what the primer says to use, as the primers are often formulated to work with specific finish paints. I can assure you that you will achieve better-looking and longer-lasting results if you use a primer, no matter if you are painting bare wood, metal, plastic or just about any surface - even ceramic tile!

After painting bare wood with a water-based primer, the wood may seem rougher than before you started. This frequently happens for two reasons - the water in the paint can raise the grain of the bare wood, and you feel some of the coarse pigments in the paint. For truly professional results, you need to lightly sand the primer before you apply the first coat of finish paint. The primers sand very easily, so this task will not be a chore to do.

Try to recoat the primer with a finish coat of paint within 12 hours if at all possible. The sooner you cover the primer with finish paint, after you have passed the minimum recoat time period, the better the bond will be between the two paints.

Be sure to read the label instructions of the primer and follow those to the letter. If it says to apply the primer to a clean, dry surface, it means it. Clean means washing the surface with soap and water if necessary to remove dirt, oils, grease, tree sap, etc.

Column 706

Workbench

Posted on December 17, 2007 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: I need a workbench at my house. After reviewing many workbench plans, I am a little confused. Is there a difference between a garage workbench and a workbench stand? Is there an advantage to making a metal workbench instead of one made from wood? What would you use for the workbench legs? What is the most affordable way to build a workbench? Laura C., Glendale, CA

DEAR LAURA: A workbench is a subject near and dear to my heart as you might imagine. I have spent countless hours standing at mine engrossed in a project of my own or often something I am doing with one of my children. A garage workbench or one in a basement can be the center of the vortex of enormous pleasure and sometimes great frustration; all in the same project!

There is an enormous difference between a workbench and a workbench stand. You may discover that once your workbench is finished you may need a small stand on the workbench to support different things you are adjusting or finishing. A workbench stand is often a small tripod device that adjusts to different heights. They can come in very handy on any number of projects.

This sturdy and attractive workbench was made entirely from scrap material. PHOTO CREDIT: Tim Carter

There are indeed pros and cons to both metal and wood workbenches. A metal workbench can have enormous strength, but fabricating one can be a challenge. Those who have great welding skills and the needed equipment can quickly use common angle iron to make the legs, shelf supports and the horizontal brackets needed to secure the top to the undercarriage. If you can't weld metal, you can substitute sturdy angle iron that has holes punched in it at regular intervals. Nuts, bolts and washers take the place of welds when connecting the pieces of metal together.

Wood is often the material of choice because it is affordable and many people have both the skills and the tools to work with it. What's more, with a little preplanning you might be able to build your workbench for nothing. I did just that with some dandy scrap lumber I had accumulated. Much of the lumber was solid oak that was salvaged at the loading dock at a supply house I frequent on a regular basis. If you or a friend work at a place that has a shipping and receiving dock, you might be surprised at the rich supply of wonderful wood that could be yours for the asking.

I was able to procure some rough-cut oak that measured 3 by 3 inches. These made wonderful legs for my most recent workbench. I used parts of shipping pallets for the frame of the actual workbench. The top of my basement workbench is made from a salvaged piece of plywood that I then covered with some leftover squares of oak parquet flooring. Try to use oak or some other durable hardwood for the workbench top as these woods can take the years of abuse typically levied on workbenches.

Pay attention to the depth of your workbench top. If you plan on having either metal or wood pegboard on the wall above the workbench, then only make the workbench top 24 inches deep. Resist the temptation to make the top a generous 30 or 32 inches deep. If you do, you will discover it is hard to reach things hanging from the pegboard. But if you plan to have 12-inch-deep wall cabinets over the top, then make the top 32 inches deep for sure.

Be sure to brace the workbench so it does not sway side to side. You can do this quickly with a scrap piece of plywood that is screwed to the back legs of the workbench. The taller the piece of plywood, the stronger the workbench will be.

The height of the finished workbench depends on how tall you are. To get the height right, experiment with your breakfast table. Place a clean drop cloth on the table and place objects on the table that you might work on. Stand at the table and see if the height seems right. If you are tall, try this at a regular kitchen countertop.

If you are looking for scrap or remnant oak flooring for a workbench top, you can also use regular oak strip flooring. I did that years ago on several workbenches I built for customers. There was a bundle or two of leftover flooring that made a superb top.

Be sure your workbench top has an overhang of at least 4 inches on the front and the sides. You will discover this will come in very handy if you need to use larger adjustable clamps to hold something in a steady position while you glue, drill or sand the object.

To keep your workbench top looking like new, always keep a few scraps of three-quarter-inch-thick pieces of plywood nearby. Place these under things as you drill so the drill bit does not puncture the surface of the actual top.

Column 705

Home Heating

Posted on December 10, 2007 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: My home heating bills are going up faster than a jet at an air show. Settle a debate among my fellow employees. Some say it is better just to leave the thermostat at the same temperature all the time as it costs so much to bring a cold house up to temperature. Others say to use a programmable thermostat. Still others feel you should set the thermostat down to 50F at night and while at work. What is the best way to save money on home heating? Marylyn O., Victoria, British Columbia CA

DEAR MARYLYN: Home heating oil prices as well as many other heating fuel costs are going up with little relief in sight. The smart person like you is starting to think about how they can save as it is insanity to waste money on home heating when it is so easy to save.

The first thing you need to realize is that this is a very complex issue. There is no magic silver bullet or one-size-fits-all spandex solution that will allow you to save lots of money and keep everyone within your home comfortable. I am reminded of a neighbor who wanted to save money. She kept her thermostat so low, I nearly turned blue when my wife and I would visit for dinner.

A programmable thermostat, when used correctly, can save impressive amounts of money on your home heating bills. PHOTO CREDIT: Tim Carter

If you want to save a really significant amount on your heating bills, then set back the thermostat to 60F for the entire heating season while you are awake and then set it to 50F when you are asleep. Go out and buy some long underwear, a hooded sweatshirt and maybe some light gloves. This is a drastic change in your at-home lifestyle, but the savings will be amazing.

Here is the science behind this complicated situation. Most homes are very different from one another. Each one losses heat at a different rate, the well-insulated homes being a better bargain. But each home can have a drastically different source of heat and the rate and amount of heat produced can vary significantly. Keep in mind that furnaces, boilers, heat pumps, etc. are like shoes; they come in all different sizes.

To make things even worse, the heat produced at the point where you and I can first feel it, the floor or wall register or radiant source, can be as cool as 98F with a heat pump or as high as 125-130F with an oil furnace. Natural gas heat can also produce high plenum or register temperatures.

So imagine letting a drafty house heated with a marginally-sized heat pump drop down to 55F and the outdoor temperature is at 0F or below. It might take hours and hours for the house to get comfortable with the heat pump running at full throttle. Compare that to what might happen to a super-insulated house that has a slightly oversized oil furnace. The oil furnace might get the house toasty warm in just 15 minutes!

Far and away the best solution to save money and remain comfortable while you are awake and at home are high-quality programmable thermostats. The best ones are outfitted with mini-computers that can figure out how quickly your furnace or boiler can bring your house up to the desired temperature so as to use the minimal amount of fuel but keep peace among those who want the house to be warm.

The trouble is, many people who have programmable thermostats do not extract the full amount of savings from them. You need to set them up to match your schedule and that of your family. The best thermostats have settings for each of the days of the week, vacation settings and temporary override settings. The people who save the most on their home-heating costs are those who make the furnace go up and down in temperature at least four times a day.

Keep in mind when programming the thermostat when you jump in bed each night. Since it takes the average house a while to cool off, you might set the thermostat to setback an hour before you slide under the sheets. There is no need to keep the heat on a higher setting up till the moment you fall asleep.

Do not underestimate how long it can take a heat pump to bring a cool or cold house up to temperature. Many people who have heat pumps complain how they produce a cold or cool heat. That may seem like an oxymoron, but you may agree when and if you place your hand over a heat-pump register as it is working at its best.

Also keep in mind that if you want to save on home heating, take the time to identify any and all air leaks. Air infiltration is a very significant source of heat loss. Caulk exterior cracks that allow cold air to enter your home. Think as if your home was a boat and the air was water. Stop all air leaks so you do not sink from a heating bill that needs a tsunami of cash to pay for it.

Column 704

How To Install A Prehung Door

Posted on December 3, 2007 by Tim Carter

"Before the door is installed, make sure the top and bottom of the door are painted. This seals the wood so the door doesn't warp over time."

Install Prehung Door Checklist

Rough opening must be correct
Trim side jambs so top jamb is level
Put shims behind each hinge
Install 2.5-inch screw under top hinge

DEAR TIM: I need to know how to install an interior prehung door. This door is a regular interior door, not an exterior door. Is this job as easy as the salesman made it out to be?

I'm suspicious, as it seems that you need some good skills to install a prehung door. What can you share so that I might have a fighting chance as I wrestle with this door? Bill F., Greeneville, NC

Is It Difficult To Install a Prehung Door?

DEAR BILL: Installing an interior prehung door is not a job I would entrust to a rookie carpenter. The job is fraught with all sorts of little challenges that are solved with tricks that come with lots of experience.

To end up with a door that fits perfectly without rubbing, you need to know some of these tricks. In other words, the salesman either thought you were a seasoned carpenter or he needed to make a sale. No worries though, as I will try to give you as many tips as possible to help you survive this job.

Free & Fast Bids

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local finish carpenters who can install your door.

What Does Door Handing Mean?

Door handing refers to the side of the door that the knob and hinges are on when the door is closed. It is a very common mistake to purchase a prehung door that swings the wrong way.

How Do You Determine Door Handing?

To determine proper handing, always imagine looking at the door and be on the side where the door swings towards you. If the doorknob is on the left side of the door, it is a left-handed door. If the knob is on the right, it would be a right-handed door.

Why are the Jambs Long on Prehung Doors?

Prehung doors often come from the factory with the jambs a little long. This is done on purpose so you can install the door in places where there will be carpet and not have to cut off the bottom of the new door.

How Much Space Should Be Under the Door?

The goal is to have about one-half-inch of airspace between the bottom of the door and the top of the carpet or any finished flooring material. The door jambs don't have to touch the subfloor in carpeted situations, but they must be in contact with hardwood flooring, ceramic tile, cork or other finished floors that are typically smooth.

Should the Top and Bottom of the Door Be Painted?

Before the door is installed, make sure the top and bottom of the door are painted. This seals the wood so the door doesn't warp over time. You can just lay the door flat on the ground and open it to check to see if this was done at the factory. It is important to have the top and bottom of doors sealed to prevent warping.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local finish carpenters who can install your door.

How Much Gap Should There Be Between the Door and the Jamb?

Prehung doors typically come from the factory with a one-eighth-inch gap between the edges of the door and the door jamb. The doors are almost always perfectly square, so the challenge is to square up the jamb within the rough opening so the gap between the door and the jamb stays consistent.

The biggest challenge is cutting the lengths of the jambs correctly so the gap at the top of the door is correct. If one leg of the jamb is too long, you will end up with the door rubbing against the top jamb or a horribly large gap between the door and the jamb just above the doorknob.

Should the Side Jambs be Plumb?

It's really important for the door jambs to be installed plumb. Use a four-foot level to see how plumb the rough opening is that is common to the hinge-side of the door. Use wood shims with the level and tack the shims against the jamb until the level is perfectly plumb. It is best to install shims at the same height as the door hinges.

Install Prehung Door Steps:

Position the prehung door into the rough opening, slide it up against the shims, and see how things look. You know you're in great shape if the gap along the hinge side of the door and the top of the door are the consistent one-eighth inch. Don't worry for now about the gap alongside the doorknob side of the door. This is the least important jamb.
Use 10-penny finish nails to attach the hinge jamb of the door to the rough jamb. Carefully nail through the jamb and into the shims. Do not drive the nails completely into place. Leave at least one-half inch of the nails exposed in case you need to make adjustments to the length of the door jambs or you have to move the jambs slightly in and out so the door fits perfectly. Once all adjustments are made, all shims are in place and the door fits well, then you can drive the nails home recessing the nail heads with a nail-setting tool.
To really add a professional touch to your installation once complete, you will want to temporarily remove the top hinge from just the door jamb. Doors are heavy and over time the weight of the door can actually pull the jamb away from the finish nails. This will cause the door to rub and not fit well.
If you take a three-inch-long screw and drive it through the jamb into the rough jamb at this upper hinge, the door should stay put for many years. It is important to predrill the hole so you do not split the jamb and create a countersink hole so the head of the screw does not touch the back side of the hinge once the hinge is reinstalled.
Some carpenters just remove one of the regular short hinge screws and replace it with a longer one that will penetrate into the rough jamb. This method will also work.
When shimming the jambs, place the shims at about two-foot intervals and always nail through the jamb at a location where you have installed shims.
CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local finish carpenters who can install your door.

Column 703

Crown Molding eBook

Posted on November 29, 2007 by Tim Carter

Crown Molding eBook:

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Contains 6 instructional videos that make the hardest parts EASY

Become a Crown Molding expert in less than 30 minutes

Over 25 large color photos showing every key aspect of your project

Easy to follow, step-by-step instructions from beginning to end

Recommendations for tools needed and safety tips

Invaluable master carpenter tips are highlighted in color

NO instructions for using a coping saw nor a compound miter saw are included. WHY? Because you don't need either tool! Master carpenters for hundreds of years never had those tools. You don't need them either.

100% no-hassle money-back guarantee

Download your copy immediately - only $17.00

Tim, I purchased two of your eBooks ...... Your directions to download them were easy to follow! ..... the eBooks were EXCELLENT references on HOW to do it right! This was the best money I've ever spent!!! Your eBooks are fabulous, full of details, with great pictures to visualize every step. You took all the MYSTERY out of my projects!

- Patrick M., Baltimore, MD

I was fretting about doing the crown molding job I had, as I could not figure out how to use the compond miter saw to cut crown molding. I went to the compound miter saw sites and found their tables of settings jiberish (especially the day before the job). I found your site and coughed up the 20 bucks and I followed your suggestions about making the test strips and voila! Within a couple of hours, I literally couldn't believe I was making almost perfect crown moldings! Not only that, for each crown molding I layed, I tested the corners to be molded first, as you suggested, then took the correct test strip from each corner e.g, outer corner, left side, 45 degrees (plus the other side of the molding) inner corner, 43 degrees, right side with me to the saw. Then I replicated the strips (only using the correct length). Thank you. Best 20 bucks I have spent!

- Allan H., Centreville, VA

"I had a trim job that included crown molding coming up real soon. So, having never dealt with crown before, I prepared myself by reading whatever articles I could on the subject. I found your eBook the night before I was scheduled to do the crown portion of the job. I read it front to back several times and then printed out a "cheat sheet" which I kept right there next to the saw. I made no mistakes, wasted no material and the crown looks great! Thanks for the informative book!"

- John Kennedy

"I just reviewed the eBook – great idea setting up inside and outside corners of varying angles! This step alone will save me the cost of your eBook (in trashed molding material).

Thanks again!"

- Patrick Giacobbe

Discover The Secrets to Cutting and Installing Perfect Crown Molding:

Just seconds from now you can discover my secret tips for cutting and installing crown molding and the final steps of finely-crafted finishing details. In minutes, you will be making professional-looking miter cuts. This one-of-a-kind eBook will teach you everything you need to know for perfect crown molding installation! The cost for this invaluable tool is only $17.00.

This eBook contains many gorgeous step-by-step color photos and covers the following topics:

Here is a sample page to give you an idea of
how colorful, crisp and helpful this eBook is:
Sample eBook Page

This eBook is loaded with step-by-step color photos!

Required Tools and Safety
Positioning and Cutting Crown Molding
Inside Corners
Outside Corners
Ending Crown Molding on a Wall
Nailing Tips
Crown Molding On Top of Cabinets
Crown in 45 and 60 Degree Bay Windows
Crown Molding in Stairwells
Cathedral and Vaulted Ceilings
No Tedious Coping Required! Why? To create the cut line you follow with the coping saw, you have to cut the molding in the miter saw the way I show you in the eBook. Why waste time coping when you already have a perfect fit? No other publication I know of shows this trick to perfect fits in corners using just a miter saw!
Six Crown Molding videos covering: Miter cuts, installation tips, cabinet crown, fancy crown molding corner cuts, inside and outside corners, and more!

"I have downloaded numerous free articles on installing crown molding. I also bought two books on finish carpentry. Your Crown Molding eBook is by far the best I have ever read. Simple, easy to understand and insights no one else mentions." - Don Yoshikawa

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"Your Crown Molding eBook was very helpful. I spent a day trying to cope the inside corners using Home Depot's $20 1-2-3 series with no success, but switched after reading your material. Thanks again!" - Scott Peterson

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"I ordered your Crown Molding eBook a month ago. The BEST money I've ever spent. The molding in my spare bedroom looks incredible." - Scott Weedman

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"I tried your on-line manual on crown molding installation for upper wall mount cabinets. Awesome! It worked just like you said it would. I ended up with a beautiful finishing touch to some rather drab looking upper cabinets. Thanks, again!" - Ian Cameron / Zamboni Construction / Sedona, AZ

Satisfaction Guaranteed

This eBook is an instant download the moment your credit is approved. It comes to you in PDF format, that can be viewed with free Adobe Acrobat Reader software.

Final Note:

"Having the right knowledge is as important as having the right tools for any project. My Crown Molding eBook is an opportunity to discover the invaluable tips that determine the success of your Crown project. We are so confident that you will enjoy and benefit from this eBook that we guarantee your satisfaction, with our no-hassle, no questions asked return policy. You have nothing to lose and everything to gain."

Enjoy,

Tim Carter
President, Founder
AsktheBuilder.com

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