Stump Removal Video

Stump Removal

"This is crazy." Have you said that when trying to remove a tree stump with a shovel? Some roots can be larger than your leg. Stump removal is a huge job and a shovel may not be the proper tool. Get some heavy equipment to remove the stumps and get them out of the way.

If you have many large tree stumps that you need to remove quickly, one option is to rent medium sized excavating equipment. A skid steer loader and a track excavator back-hoe. If just two people, you can make quick work of large stumps.

The equipment controls might appear confusing at first. But with some instructions and practice, it is easy to get the hang of the equipment.

An effective stump removal method is to use the excavator back-hoe to dig around the sides of the stumps, until they can be popped out of the ground. Then place the stump in the bucket of the skid loader. The loader can move the stumps to the staging area, where the stumps can be trucked off or left to decompose.

With the right equipment and technique, you can remove a lot of stumps in a short period of time. When a shovel can't clear the field, go for the rental equipment.

Mixing Joint Compound Video

Mixing Joint Compound Video

Mixing drywall joint compound is a really important step in taping and finishing drywall. You might think that the joint compound is ready to use right from the bucket. But very few professionals would agree with you. Tim will show you how he mixes drywall joint compound before he puts it in his mud pan.

Start with joint compound approved for drywall tape, read the product label and the Gypsum Construction Handbook before starting to work with the compound. The product label will tell you how much water you can add to the compound at a time. Too much water can be a mistake. It can cause too much shrinkage and dilute the adhesive.

Get a clean, five-gallon bucket for mixing the compound. Don’t try to mix a bucket that is filled to the brim, you will have compound everywhere. Scoop out about one or two gallons of joint compound and place it in the clean bucket. Add a small amount of water.

Mixing by hand is hard work. Get a special cast head mixer that will fit into your hand drill. Tighten the mixer in the drill chuck and slower drop the mixer into the joint compound. Turn on the drill slower while holding the bucket tightly between your feet. If you don’t, the bucket can spin out of control.

The joint compound will look like smooth whipped cream in a matter of seconds. The desired consistency is that of cake icing. With the right tools, you can mix drywall joint compound quickly and easily.

Paint Primer

DEAR TIM: The instructions on the can of paint I am getting ready to use say to use a primer paint on bare wood. Is that really necessary? It seems like a waste of time. What are the benefits of using paint primer? I feel the paint company just wants another sale and they are trying to slow me down. I have never used primers before, and the paint I use seems to hold up. If you do convince me, is there a special primer I should use? Jane G., Sierra Vista, AZ

DEAR JACKIE: I am sure the things you painted before survived the lack of primer, but I am here to tell you that the finished product would have been much better had you used a primer. Paint primers are very necessary, and they serve several very important functions.

A paint primer is a special paint. It is formulated to do several mission-critical things, the least of which is create a superior bond to the object being painted. Keep in mind that for all intents and purposes, most paints are simply high-performance coatings that are really glues with color in them. In other words, when applied correctly to the right things, paint can stick or adhere to something for a very long time, just as any glue applied out of a bottle does.

This bare wood door needs a coat of primer to make the finish paint glow.  PHOTO CREDIT: Brent Walter

This bare wood door needs a coat of primer to make the finish paint glow. PHOTO CREDIT: Brent Walter

The chemists who work for paint companies formulate primers so they are very sticky. The grab onto surfaces like briars to your pants. What's more, the dried surface of many primers is formulated to physically and chemically bond to the finish paint, if you apply the finish paint within 24 hours of applying the primer.

Certain primer paints also serve two other functions - they seal a porous surface, and they even out the texture of the object so the finish paints think they are being applied over a sheet of glass.

If you were to look at the surface of the wood you are about to paint under a microscope, you would be shocked at how rough it really is, even after you have sanded it. What's more, depending upon the species of wood you are painting and its grain pattern, you can have widely varying levels of porosity between the light grained spring wood and the darker grain bands of summer wood.

If you were to paint over wood without a primer, you might be able to see these grain bands. The finish paint would look dull over the light-colored spring wood, but glossier over the darker bands of wood. This happens because the paints soaks into the light-colored spring wood. A primer-sealer paint seals the surface of wood so the finish paint does not soak into it. This allows you to have even gloss over the wood that is painted.

Many paint primers for wood have lots of dense pigments in them that act as microscopic liquid-spackling compound. The pigments fill in all of the low spots in the wood so the finish paint will look like satin.

Modern primers are often water-based and dry very rapidly. Some can be recoated with finish paint in less than an hour. Using a primer will actually speed up the job, not slow you down.

I urge you to always use a primer if the paint can label suggests it. In fact, pay attention to what the primer says to use, as the primers are often formulated to work with specific finish paints. I can assure you that you will achieve better-looking and longer-lasting results if you use a primer, no matter if you are painting bare wood, metal, plastic or just about any surface - even ceramic tile!

After painting bare wood with a water-based primer, the wood may seem rougher than before you started. This frequently happens for two reasons - the water in the paint can raise the grain of the bare wood, and you feel some of the coarse pigments in the paint. For truly professional results, you need to lightly sand the primer before you apply the first coat of finish paint. The primers sand very easily, so this task will not be a chore to do.

Try to recoat the primer with a finish coat of paint within 12 hours if at all possible. The sooner you cover the primer with finish paint, after you have passed the minimum recoat time period, the better the bond will be between the two paints.

Be sure to read the label instructions of the primer and follow those to the letter. If it says to apply the primer to a clean, dry surface, it means it. Clean means washing the surface with soap and water if necessary to remove dirt, oils, grease, tree sap, etc.

Column 706

Workbench

DEAR TIM: I need a workbench at my house. After reviewing many workbench plans, I am a little confused. Is there a difference between a garage workbench and a workbench stand? Is there an advantage to making a metal workbench instead of one made from wood? What would you use for the workbench legs? What is the most affordable way to build a workbench? Laura C., Glendale, CA

DEAR LAURA: A workbench is a subject near and dear to my heart as you might imagine. I have spent countless hours standing at mine engrossed in a project of my own or often something I am doing with one of my children. A garage workbench or one in a basement can be the center of the vortex of enormous pleasure and sometimes great frustration; all in the same project!

There is an enormous difference between a workbench and a workbench stand. You may discover that once your workbench is finished you may need a small stand on the workbench to support different things you are adjusting or finishing. A workbench stand is often a small tripod device that adjusts to different heights. They can come in very handy on any number of projects.

This sturdy and attractive workbench was made entirely from scrap material.  PHOTO CREDIT: Tim Carter

This sturdy and attractive workbench was made entirely from scrap material. PHOTO CREDIT: Tim Carter

There are indeed pros and cons to both metal and wood workbenches. A metal workbench can have enormous strength, but fabricating one can be a challenge. Those who have great welding skills and the needed equipment can quickly use common angle iron to make the legs, shelf supports and the horizontal brackets needed to secure the top to the undercarriage. If you can't weld metal, you can substitute sturdy angle iron that has holes punched in it at regular intervals. Nuts, bolts and washers take the place of welds when connecting the pieces of metal together.

Wood is often the material of choice because it is affordable and many people have both the skills and the tools to work with it. What's more, with a little preplanning you might be able to build your workbench for nothing. I did just that with some dandy scrap lumber I had accumulated. Much of the lumber was solid oak that was salvaged at the loading dock at a supply house I frequent on a regular basis. If you or a friend work at a place that has a shipping and receiving dock, you might be surprised at the rich supply of wonderful wood that could be yours for the asking.

I was able to procure some rough-cut oak that measured 3 by 3 inches. These made wonderful legs for my most recent workbench. I used parts of shipping pallets for the frame of the actual workbench. The top of my basement workbench is made from a salvaged piece of plywood that I then covered with some leftover squares of oak parquet flooring. Try to use oak or some other durable hardwood for the workbench top as these woods can take the years of abuse typically levied on workbenches.

Pay attention to the depth of your workbench top. If you plan on having either metal or wood pegboard on the wall above the workbench, then only make the workbench top 24 inches deep. Resist the temptation to make the top a generous 30 or 32 inches deep. If you do, you will discover it is hard to reach things hanging from the pegboard. But if you plan to have 12-inch-deep wall cabinets over the top, then make the top 32 inches deep for sure.

Be sure to brace the workbench so it does not sway side to side. You can do this quickly with a scrap piece of plywood that is screwed to the back legs of the workbench. The taller the piece of plywood, the stronger the workbench will be.

The height of the finished workbench depends on how tall you are. To get the height right, experiment with your breakfast table. Place a clean drop cloth on the table and place objects on the table that you might work on. Stand at the table and see if the height seems right. If you are tall, try this at a regular kitchen countertop.

If you are looking for scrap or remnant oak flooring for a workbench top, you can also use regular oak strip flooring. I did that years ago on several workbenches I built for customers. There was a bundle or two of leftover flooring that made a superb top.

Be sure your workbench top has an overhang of at least 4 inches on the front and the sides. You will discover this will come in very handy if you need to use larger adjustable clamps to hold something in a steady position while you glue, drill or sand the object.

To keep your workbench top looking like new, always keep a few scraps of three-quarter-inch-thick pieces of plywood nearby. Place these under things as you drill so the drill bit does not puncture the surface of the actual top.

Column 705

Home Heating

DEAR TIM: My home heating bills are going up faster than a jet at an air show. Settle a debate among my fellow employees. Some say it is better just to leave the thermostat at the same temperature all the time as it costs so much to bring a cold house up to temperature. Others say to use a programmable thermostat. Still others feel you should set the thermostat down to 50F at night and while at work. What is the best way to save money on home heating? Marylyn O., Victoria, British Columbia CA

DEAR MARYLYN: Home heating oil prices as well as many other heating fuel costs are going up with little relief in sight. The smart person like you is starting to think about how they can save as it is insanity to waste money on home heating when it is so easy to save.

The first thing you need to realize is that this is a very complex issue. There is no magic silver bullet or one-size-fits-all spandex solution that will allow you to save lots of money and keep everyone within your home comfortable. I am reminded of a neighbor who wanted to save money. She kept her thermostat so low, I nearly turned blue when my wife and I would visit for dinner.

A programmable thermostat, when used correctly, can save impressive amounts of money on your home heating bills.  PHOTO CREDIT: Tim Carter

A programmable thermostat, when used correctly, can save impressive amounts of money on your home heating bills. PHOTO CREDIT: Tim Carter

If you want to save a really significant amount on your heating bills, then set back the thermostat to 60F for the entire heating season while you are awake and then set it to 50F when you are asleep. Go out and buy some long underwear, a hooded sweatshirt and maybe some light gloves. This is a drastic change in your at-home lifestyle, but the savings will be amazing.

Here is the science behind this complicated situation. Most homes are very different from one another. Each one losses heat at a different rate, the well-insulated homes being a better bargain. But each home can have a drastically different source of heat and the rate and amount of heat produced can vary significantly. Keep in mind that furnaces, boilers, heat pumps, etc. are like shoes; they come in all different sizes.

To make things even worse, the heat produced at the point where you and I can first feel it, the floor or wall register or radiant source, can be as cool as 98F with a heat pump or as high as 125-130F with an oil furnace. Natural gas heat can also produce high plenum or register temperatures.

So imagine letting a drafty house heated with a marginally-sized heat pump drop down to 55F and the outdoor temperature is at 0F or below. It might take hours and hours for the house to get comfortable with the heat pump running at full throttle. Compare that to what might happen to a super-insulated house that has a slightly oversized oil furnace. The oil furnace might get the house toasty warm in just 15 minutes!

Far and away the best solution to save money and remain comfortable while you are awake and at home are high-quality programmable thermostats. The best ones are outfitted with mini-computers that can figure out how quickly your furnace or boiler can bring your house up to the desired temperature so as to use the minimal amount of fuel but keep peace among those who want the house to be warm.

The trouble is, many people who have programmable thermostats do not extract the full amount of savings from them. You need to set them up to match your schedule and that of your family. The best thermostats have settings for each of the days of the week, vacation settings and temporary override settings. The people who save the most on their home-heating costs are those who make the furnace go up and down in temperature at least four times a day.

Keep in mind when programming the thermostat when you jump in bed each night. Since it takes the average house a while to cool off, you might set the thermostat to setback an hour before you slide under the sheets. There is no need to keep the heat on a higher setting up till the moment you fall asleep.

Do not underestimate how long it can take a heat pump to bring a cool or cold house up to temperature. Many people who have heat pumps complain how they produce a cold or cool heat. That may seem like an oxymoron, but you may agree when and if you place your hand over a heat-pump register as it is working at its best.

Also keep in mind that if you want to save on home heating, take the time to identify any and all air leaks. Air infiltration is a very significant source of heat loss. Caulk exterior cracks that allow cold air to enter your home. Think as if your home was a boat and the air was water. Stop all air leaks so you do not sink from a heating bill that needs a tsunami of cash to pay for it.

Column 704

How To Install A Prehung Door

Tapered wood shims

Install prehung door: You need adjustable shims and the correct rough opening. Copyright 2018 Tim Carter

"Before the door is installed, make sure the top and bottom of the door are painted. This seals the wood so the door doesn't warp over time."

Install Prehung Door Checklist

  • Rough opening must be correct
  • Trim side jambs so top jamb is level
  • Put shims behind each hinge
  • Install 2.5-inch screw under top hinge

DEAR TIM: I need to know how to install an interior prehung door. This door is a regular interior door, not an exterior door. Is this job as easy as the salesman made it out to be?

I'm suspicious, as it seems that you need some good skills to install a prehung door. What can you share so that I might have a fighting chance as I wrestle with this door? Bill F., Greeneville, NC

Related Links

Dual French Door Installation - DO NOT SHARE! SECRET!

Install a New Front Door in Hours - DO NOT SHARE!

Is It Difficult To Install a Prehung Door?

DEAR BILL: Installing an interior prehung door is not a job I would entrust to a rookie carpenter. The job is fraught with all sorts of little challenges that are solved with tricks that come with lots of experience.

To end up with a door that fits perfectly without rubbing, you need to know some of these tricks. In other words, the salesman either thought you were a seasoned carpenter or he needed to make a sale. No worries though, as I will try to give you as many tips as possible to help you survive this job.

Free & Fast Bids

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local finish carpenters who can install your door.

What Does Door Handing Mean?

Door handing refers to the side of the door that the knob and hinges are on when the door is closed. It is a very common mistake to purchase a prehung door that swings the wrong way.

How Do You Determine Door Handing?

To determine proper handing, always imagine looking at the door and be on the side where the door swings towards you. If the doorknob is on the left side of the door, it is a left-handed door. If the knob is on the right, it would be a right-handed door.

Why are the Jambs Long on Prehung Doors?

Prehung doors often come from the factory with the jambs a little long. This is done on purpose so you can install the door in places where there will be carpet and not have to cut off the bottom of the new door.

How Much Space Should Be Under the Door?

The goal is to have about one-half-inch of airspace between the bottom of the door and the top of the carpet or any finished flooring material. The door jambs don't have to touch the subfloor in carpeted situations, but they must be in contact with hardwood flooring, ceramic tile, cork or other finished floors that are typically smooth.

Should the Top and Bottom of the Door Be Painted?

Before the door is installed, make sure the top and bottom of the door are painted. This seals the wood so the door doesn't warp over time. You can just lay the door flat on the ground and open it to check to see if this was done at the factory. It is important to have the top and bottom of doors sealed to prevent warping.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local finish carpenters who can install your door.

How Much Gap Should There Be Between the Door and the Jamb?

Prehung doors typically come from the factory with a one-eighth-inch gap between the edges of the door and the door jamb. The doors are almost always perfectly square, so the challenge is to square up the jamb within the rough opening so the gap between the door and the jamb stays consistent.

The biggest challenge is cutting the lengths of the jambs correctly so the gap at the top of the door is correct. If one leg of the jamb is too long, you will end up with the door rubbing against the top jamb or a horribly large gap between the door and the jamb just above the doorknob.

Should the Side Jambs be Plumb?

It's really important for the door jambs to be installed plumb. Use a four-foot level to see how plumb the rough opening is that is common to the hinge-side of the door. Use wood shims with the level and tack the shims against the jamb until the level is perfectly plumb. It is best to install shims at the same height as the door hinges.

Install Prehung Door Steps:

  1. Position the prehung door into the rough opening, slide it up against the shims, and see how things look. You know you're in great shape if the gap along the hinge side of the door and the top of the door are the consistent one-eighth inch. Don't worry for now about the gap alongside the doorknob side of the door. This is the least important jamb.
  2. Use 10-penny finish nails to attach the hinge jamb of the door to the rough jamb. Carefully nail through the jamb and into the shims. Do not drive the nails completely into place. Leave at least one-half inch of the nails exposed in case you need to make adjustments to the length of the door jambs or you have to move the jambs slightly in and out so the door fits perfectly. Once all adjustments are made, all shims are in place and the door fits well, then you can drive the nails home recessing the nail heads with a nail-setting tool.
  3. To really add a professional touch to your installation once complete, you will want to temporarily remove the top hinge from just the door jamb. Doors are heavy and over time the weight of the door can actually pull the jamb away from the finish nails. This will cause the door to rub and not fit well.
  4. If you take a three-inch-long screw and drive it through the jamb into the rough jamb at this upper hinge, the door should stay put for many years. It is important to predrill the hole so you do not split the jamb and create a countersink hole so the head of the screw does not touch the back side of the hinge once the hinge is reinstalled.
  5. Some carpenters just remove one of the regular short hinge screws and replace it with a longer one that will penetrate into the rough jamb. This method will also work.
  6. When shimming the jambs, place the shims at about two-foot intervals and always nail through the jamb at a location where you have installed shims.
  7. CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local finish carpenters who can install your door.

Column 703

Crown Molding eBook

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  4. Do you want your friends and neighbors to be impressed with your carpentry skills?
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  5. Do you want to know how to cut perfect miters each time so your spouse or significant other will see you for who you really are? You know, the DIY Superhero with the flashy flannel costume under those tattered clothes?
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If you answered Yes or Are You Kidding Me? in two or more of the questions above, you need my Instant Download Crown Molding eBook!

     
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  • Easy to follow, step-by-step instructions from beginning to end
  • Recommendations for tools needed and safety tips
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Tim, I purchased two of your eBooks ...... Your directions to download them were easy to follow! ..... the eBooks were EXCELLENT references on HOW to do it right! This was the best money I've ever spent!!! Your eBooks are fabulous, full of details, with great pictures to visualize every step. You took all the MYSTERY out of my projects!

- Patrick M., Baltimore, MD

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I was fretting about doing the crown molding job I had, as I could not figure out how to use the compond miter saw to cut crown molding.  I went to the compound miter saw sites and found their tables of settings jiberish (especially the day before the job).  I found your site and coughed up the 20 bucks and I followed your suggestions about making the test strips and voila! Within a couple of hours, I literally couldn't believe I was making almost perfect crown moldings!  Not only that, for each crown molding I layed, I tested the corners to be molded first, as you suggested, then took the correct test strip from each corner e.g, outer corner, left side, 45 degrees (plus the other side of the molding) inner corner, 43 degrees, right side with me to the saw. Then I replicated the strips (only using the correct length).  Thank you. Best 20 bucks I have spent!

- Allan H., Centreville, VA

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"I had a trim job that included crown molding coming up real soon. So, having never dealt with crown before, I prepared myself by reading whatever articles I could on the subject. I found your eBook the night before I was scheduled to do the crown portion of the job. I read it front to back several times and then printed out a "cheat sheet" which I kept right there next to the saw. I made no mistakes, wasted no material and the crown looks great!  Thanks for the informative book!"

- John Kennedy

 
 

"I just reviewed the eBook – great idea setting up inside and outside corners of varying angles! This step alone will save me the cost of your eBook (in trashed molding material).

Thanks again!"

- Patrick Giacobbe

 

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Just seconds from now you can discover my secret tips for cutting and installing crown molding and the final steps of finely-crafted finishing details. In minutes, you will be making professional-looking miter cuts. This one-of-a-kind eBook will teach you everything you need to know for perfect crown molding installation! The cost for this invaluable tool is only $17.00.

This eBook contains many gorgeous step-by-step color photos and covers the following topics:

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Sample eBook Page
This eBook is loaded with step-by-step color photos!
  • Required Tools and Safety
  • Positioning and Cutting Crown Molding
  • Inside Corners
  • Outside Corners
  • Ending Crown Molding on a Wall
  • Nailing Tips
  • Crown Molding On Top of Cabinets
  • Crown in 45 and 60 Degree Bay Windows
  • Crown Molding in Stairwells
  • Cathedral and Vaulted Ceilings
  • No Tedious Coping Required! Why? To create the cut line you follow with the coping saw, you have to cut the molding in the miter saw the way I show you in the eBook. Why waste time coping when you already have a perfect fit? No other publication I know of shows this trick to perfect fits in corners using just a miter saw!
  • Six Crown Molding videos covering: Miter cuts, installation tips, cabinet crown, fancy crown molding corner cuts, inside and outside corners, and more!

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"I have downloaded numerous free articles on installing crown molding. I also bought two books on finish carpentry. Your Crown Molding eBook is by far the best I have ever read. Simple, easy to understand and insights no one else mentions." - Don Yoshikawa

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"Your Crown Molding eBook was very helpful. I spent a day trying to cope the inside corners using Home Depot's $20 1-2-3 series with no success, but switched after reading your material. Thanks again!" - Scott Peterson

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"I ordered your Crown Molding eBook a month ago. The BEST money I've ever spent. The molding in my spare bedroom looks incredible." - Scott Weedman

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"I tried your on-line manual on crown molding installation for upper wall mount cabinets.  Awesome! It worked just like you said it would. I ended up with a beautiful finishing touch to some rather drab looking upper cabinets. Thanks, again!"  - Ian Cameron / Zamboni Construction /  Sedona, AZ

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Drywall Repair

DEAR TIM: My testosterone-filled son was practicing some self-defense punches, and now I am left with a pesky drywall repair. Should I go look at the drywall repair kits, or is there a better way? I can't afford to hire any of the drywall repair services. Can you teach me how to repair drywall? Cindy R., Racine, WI

DEAR CINDY: Drywall patching and repair is not a difficult job. In my opinion, this is what I would have an apprentice drywall finisher do for the first week if I were in charge of training. The steps required to repair drywall are few and not too challenging.

If I had a dollar for every drywall repair kit I have seen at the various conventions I attend, I would be a very rich man. Many of these drywall repair kits are wonderful, and a few border on genius. I have always liked the one that was a thin perforated piece of aluminum. It had adhesive on one side. You peeled off a layer of protective paper, stuck the metal over the gaping hole making sure the edges of the metal lapped over solid drywall at least one-half inch and you were 80% finished!

This nasty-looking hole in the drywall can be completely repaired in three hours or less with the right products.  PHOTO CREDIT: Tim Carter

This nasty-looking hole in the drywall can be completely repaired in three hours or less with the right products. PHOTO CREDIT: Tim Carter

All that was left to do was cover the metal with two coats of drywall topping compound. The first coat would ooze through the holes and once dry would make the flimsy metal patch quite stiff.

But as much as I am smitten with many of the drywall repair kits, I usually prefer to do drywall repair using a small piece of drywall. This ensures there is a solid piece of drywall where there was moments before a hole. Be aware that there are many ways to do drywall repair using a small piece of drywall, but the method I am about to describe has never failed me.

Start the job by trying to rip out the dangling piece or pieces of drywall from the hole. Then carefully insert your finger into the hole trying to probe and feel if there are any pipes or wires behind the drywall.

Assuming there are no wires and pipes in the way, you now need to use a pointed drywall saw that resembles the spear on a sailfish. Create a square or rectangular hole using this saw. The hole should be at least 3 inches wide and at least 3 inches tall.

Column 702

Tim’s Cool Stuff

Below are some of my favorite tools, accessories and toys, that I use. I like them because...

CCRadio Plus

CCRadio Plus

CCRadio Plus - I like this radio because it delivers a high quality sound and pulls in the stations, even in my basement office. The built-in NOAA Weather Radio allows me to check on the current forecast and on any severe storm warnings. Other features I like are the 5-memory preset buttons so I can switch between my favorite AM, FM, Weather and TV Audio channels, the clock alarm and sleep timer. Best of all is the great sound.


 

Atomic Clock Radio

Atomic Clock Radio

I like this clock radio, especially with just changing my other clocks for Daylight Saving Time. This Sangean RCR-2 Digital Clock Radio is atomic. I don't have to reset the spring forward or fall back; it does it for me. Even after a power failure, this clock radio resets itself to the correct time. Gets me up and going on time every morning.


 

Wireless Weather Station

Wireless Weather Station

Here's how I figure out how to dress for the day. I use the La Crosse Technology Wireless Weather Forecast Station. The on-board barometric pressure gauge and pressure history bar graph lets me know if a storm is building. The clock is atomic, so no resetting to the proper time after Daylight Saving Time. The outdoor remote transmits for 200 feet. After hanging the outside remote sensor in the shade, I am ready to forecast the daily weather.


 

PowerMonkey Power Source

PowerMonkey Power Source

Okay, raise your hand if you have forgotten to recharge your cell phone or digital camera! Yes, I have forgotten and the device beeps that the battery is low and is shutting down. Just when I need to make that important call or take that once-in-a-lifetime picture. Well, I like the PowerMonkey. This small device is a portable, backup power source that can help keep my panic level down when the device is shutting down. With a variety of adapters, I can plug this in and power up the device. Fits in the palm of my hand even when connected to the cell phone.

 


Granite Tile

granite tile geometric design

This stunning geometric design was made by cutting up a few pieces of standard granite tile. PHOTO CREDIT: Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: Granite tile looks like it would be excellent flooring or a wall treatment. Is granite flooring a good choice or will it scratch easily? I am thinking of installing granite tile in several places, but wonder if I can do it successfully. Can you make different designs with granite tile, and if so, how? How hard is it to install granite tile on floors or walls? Karen S., Mount Laurel, NJ

DEAR KAREN: I'll go on the record right now. You are going to love the granite tile you will be installing. Granted (no pun intended), I am not as objective as I should be since I am a college-trained geologist and granite happens to be my favorite rock. You should be forewarned now. When you visit a real stone supplier that has a full assortment of granite tiles, you will be mesmerized by the colors, patterns, different-sized mineral grains and beauty of the granite.

The stone suppliers I visit stock granite flooring in 12-inch by 12-inch tiles. The tiles are about 3/8 inch in thickness and precision cut so the sizing among different tiles is very uniform. This is an important thing to consider as the finished grout lines will readily call out granite tiles that are too large or too small.

One thing you will notice quickly is that granite tile is very heavy. After all, it is solid rock. You need to take this into consideration if you are installing the granite on walls or some other vertical surface. Gravity will be constantly tugging at the granite tile and if it is not attached securely, it will fall off the wall. In fact, the substrate like cement board or waterproof gypsum board must be expertly attached to the wall studs or the granite can pull it from the wall as well. You can't use too many screws to attach these products to the wall studs.

Granite is a very hard rock. A geologist will tell you that it is an igneous or metamorphic rock that is highly saturated with silica. Silica when combined with oxygen makes the mineral quartz, and it has a hardness of 7 on the Mohs scale. Suffice it to say there are not too many things that will easily scratch granite tile.

I can't think of one place where I wouldn't install granite tile. It can withstand just about all the abuse you can throw at it. It is ideal for exterior applications as many of the early roads in the USA were made from granite cobblestones. I have granite stones in my own driveway and they are unaffected by heavy trucks or freezing weather.

You can successfully install granite. When granite tile is installed on floors, one of the most important things to keep in mind is that the subflooring beneath the granite must be solid with no flex in it. Granite tiles are strong, but as with any stone product, it can crack if it is put under tension. A hollow spot beneath a granite tile or a flexing subfloor can cause the granite flooring to bend and crack. Be sure the floor beneath the granite tile has all low spots filled and any high spots ground down. You want the subfloor to be in the same plane.

I prefer to install granite tile using cement-based thinset mortar. This product is very sticky and will bond very well to the granite and the wall or floor surface. Consider using a crack-isolation fabric between the granite tiles and any flooring to prevent cracks in the finished granite. The lines between each granite tile can be grouted with unsanded wall grout if the joints are 1/8 inch or less in width. Joints wider than that should be grouted with sanded grout.

Use a diamond wet saw to cut the granite tile. In fact, that is just about the only tool you can use unless you want to spend days sawing the granite tile by hand. If you get a powerful diamond wet saw, you can cut the granite tile into any shape you desire. I made an interesting geometric design for my daughter's shower wall using standard granite tile. It takes a while to layout and make the precision cuts, but it is absolutely worth it. These designs look stunning when you use different colored granites to complete the design.

Granite tile does not come with self-spacing lugs on the edges of the tile. This means you have to space the tile by using your eye or incorporating plastic spacers as part of the installation. The spacers are easily removed once the thinset mortar has cured.

Thinset mortar comes in two common colors: gray and white. I urge you to use white thinset for lighter-colored granites. Be sure to ask the stone supplier for the exact product to use to secure the granite tile to the floors or wall. Avoid the organic mastic products that look like cake icing. Often these do not have the strength needed to hold granite in place permanently.

When installing granite tile on walls, it must be supported well until the thinset cures. The granite is so heavy, it will slide down the wall. This is especially true as you start to stack pieces on top of one another and the combined weight is hundreds of pounds. If the granite moves as the thinset is curing, it weakens the bond between the wall and the granite significantly.

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