Mold in the Attic

Posted on September 30, 2005 by Tim Carter

Dear Tim: We recently purchased a home in Washington State. We were here three weeks before we had any rain. The day before Easter, we got a tremendous rainstorm and high wind. When we got home late that night, we found water (about 1/2 an inch) in the first level of the home. We found huge bubbles in the walls where water was behind the latex paint and just blew it out like strings of balloons. We looked and found a lot of the ceilings were wet and dripping. We called in a company to tarp the roof. When I peeled back the foil backed insulation there was so much water up there in the attic area I got soaked.

We had to get $30,000.00 to put on a new roof. (Insurance would not cover it, they said it was a preexisting problem.) No one found any mold while doing this. They did not change out the insulation or replace the OSB. We had to have the ceilings removed because they were sagging from being damp. Now they discovered MOLD everywhere on the OSB. All work has been stopped for five weeks.

Because we are getting so many conflicting reports about cleaning OSB we are very scared. At first the insurance company was going to replace the whole roof OSB and then they said they would just clean it. We were told you can clean plywood successfully. We were also told that you cannot clean OSB successfully because mold feeds on the glues that hold the OSB together. You can only clean the surface, you can never get rid of the mold totally in OSB.

We are concerned about the resale of the house. We were told they will scrub the underside of the OSB but the stains will always be there. If I was a new buyer and saw these mold stains, there is no way I would want to buy the house. Can you please help me with advice on where to go from here and what is the proper way to clean this. Yes, there were three inspectors before we purchased the home and no one found any mold. Winnie H.

Dear Winnie: The first thing I would do is consider talking with an attorney. If I understand your story, the attention needs to be directed immediately to the three inspectors who looked at the house and did not discover the roofing flaw that caused the leakage. Some serious mistake must have been there or this rainstorm caused the leak, in which case I would think the insurance company should be holding the bag as that is what we all pay insurance premiums for.

You need professional legal advice at this point. Be sure to hire an attorney who can prove to you they have successfully prevailed in identical cases.

As for the mold, please go read my past mold columns to understand how and why mold grows. The existing mold can be cleaned and it will not come back unless the surfaces get wet again.

Gas Fireplace Installed in Existing Home

Posted on September 30, 2005 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: My home is three years old, when it was built I had the builder frame out for a fireplace to be installed at a later date. What else besides cutting away the drywall would it take for a contractor to install a prefab fireplace? I am looking for gas logs ventless or vented. I just want to get the feel of a more realistic fireplace not something stuck out in the room.
Phil H.

DEAR PHIL: When you say frame out, I assume the house has a wooden chimney chase installed up to and out of the roof. This means you need to purchase a prefabricated fireplace that has a metal chimney pipe that is approved for such instances. If there is no chimney chase, you are still in great shape as you can purchase a direct vent fireplace that exhausts out a nearby wall or directly behind the fireplace.

I am not a huge fan of ventless or vent-free fireplaces or gas fireplace logs. A by-product of burning natural gas is water vapor. If you burn vent-free gas logs for extended periods of time, you inject vast amounts of water vapor into the inside air of your home. This water vapor can condense on cooler surfaces, such as exterior walls or attic spaces unless you have excellent vapor retarders and fantastic attic ventilation.

Pick a fireplace that will fit your current conditions and read the installation instructions cover to cover. Then start to get bids from contractors who will install it exactly that way. Put wording in the contract that says they must follow the instructions to the letter.

Hunting for Older Building Material

Posted on September 30, 2005 by Tim Carter

Dear Tim: The upper half of my house is siding with "shake-style" aluminum shingles. My hunch is that they were installed at least 20 years ago. I have about a 3'x9' section where they are missing. I have no idea if they can be purchased any longer. If not, do you know of any place that may have used ones, etc.? Paul B.

Dear Paul: I would call demolition contractors in your area. They are always listed in the phone book. These companies specialize in hunting for building materials that people need. If you supply them with a photo of the siding and tell them what you would pay them for the rights to salvage some of the siding before they destroy the house, they will hopefully call you when they find a house like this.

I would also scout the place where you live for houses that have the siding. Ask the homeowners if they are thinking of getting rid of what they have for a new siding. If so, perhaps they will let you salvage some.

Condensation Problems

Posted on September 29, 2005 by Tim Carter

Condensation on brand new windows? You must be kidding me! It can and does happen. The frustration most people feel when condensation forms on new high performance windows is enormous. After all, they just spent lots of money to SOLVE condensation problems!

Why Me?

There are very few parts of the USA that don't have condensation problems. The first place that comes to mind is the Southwest. The humidity is low and temperatures can be high for the most part. Sure, there are parts of the Southwest that get snow and can get cold, but it sure doesn't have the humidity you find in the Midwest or Northeast on a routine basis. Higher humidity from the air and water vapor that comes up through the ground can cause all sorts of headaches inside a home.

Sources of Indoor Humidity

Plants, cooking, washing clothes, frequent showers, whirlpools, hot tubs, etc., all can liberate lots of invisible water vapor into the air of a home. Water vapor can also come from the soil around your foundation walls and under your basement floor or your slab.

In older homes, this water vapor can be hard to control. Old houses can have rock foundations or slabs that were poured directly on dirt. I used to live in such a house and the basement was constantly musty.

New houses can have vapor barriers installed on the damp side of the concrete. A simple vapor barrier on a foundation wall is hot asphalt spray. A fantastic vapor barrier AND waterproofing product on a foundation wall is rubber modified asphalt or synthetic rubber foundation treatments.

New homes can have great vapor barriers installed over the soil in crawl spaces.

Monitoring Humidity

As the outdoor temperature drops, the indoor relative humidity level must also drop, or condensation can form on even the best windows. You can measure indoor relative humidity with a hand held hygrometer.

Decent hygrometers can be purchased at stores like Radio Shack or any place that sells weather instruments. If you decide to monitor your indoor humidity, do so on a daily basis and begin to keep a log. Take readings in the center of a hallway or some location slightly removed from the places where humidity will be naturally high like a kitchen, bathroom or laundry area. Take readings at the same time each day if at all possible.

Be sure to write down the outdoor temperature on the log beside each indoor humidity reading. It would also be helpful to write down the degree of condensation on windows or lack thereof with each reading.

If you do have condensation problems, a humidity log such as this will be very helpful in trying to pinpoint the problem.

Replacement Windows

If you want minimal condensation on replacement windows, then you must buy ones that are of the highest quality. Quality can be measured fairly easily. I happen to be a huge fan of independent testing and certification. Third party labs and associations can create strict manufacturing guidelines that ensure you are getting a great window that will minimize condensation.

Continue to read about the different certified programs and the companies that make windows that meet or exceed the strict guidelines. If you buy certified windows from a top-notch company, you should be a very happy camper!

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Vapor Barrier Manufacturers

Posted on September 29, 2005 by Tim Carter

Manufacturers of High Performance Vapor Barriers

The following manufacturers make really high-quality barriers. You will not usually find these products at a large home center. It may take detective work on your part. Most large cities have supply houses which cater to concrete masons. They can often be found on the Internet by searching under "Concrete Supplies Your City".

You want a product that meets or exceeds the ASTM-1745 standard.

These out-of-the-way businesses often stock these products. Contractors purchase their products from these specialty businesses for a reason. Hunt around, you may be surprised at what you find. Also, call these manufacturers. They should be able to direct you to a local distributor in your city.

SHEET PLASTIC VAPOR BARRIERS:

- Fortifiber Moistop: A waterproof paper with a polyethylene coating on each side.

Fortifiber Corporation. 800-442-2587.

Super Sampson: A high-density cross laminated polyethylene.
Raven Industries. 800-635-3456.

Tu-Tuf: A high density cross laminated polyethylene.
Sto-Cote Products, Inc. 800-435-2621.

LIQUID VAPOR BARRIER PRODUCTS:

- Clearseal Waterbased Gloss & Seal: Acrylic Sealer.

Tamms Industries. 800-21-TAMMS.

Aquapel & Aquapel Plus: A silane siloxane sealer.
L & M Construction Chemicals. 402-453-6600.

Author's Notes:

I received this email from Michael P, Cincinnati, OH. Here's how he helped with his crawl space problem.

"I live in Turpin Hills and wanted to thank you for your advice for sealing a crawl space. This is our third winter in our home and the basement is always much colder than previous basements from other homes. I did as you suggested and put heavy duty, thick plastic on the gravel and put doors on the opening of the crawl space. It's been a few weeks and I can see water droplets forming under the plastic. I may put a second layer of plastic for good measure. The basement is warmer and so is the room above the crawl space. I don't smell the mustiness either. Thanks again for the tip."

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Certified Replacement Windows

Posted on September 29, 2005 by Tim Carter

Certified Replacement Windows

AAMA

The American Architectural Manufacturers Association (AAMA) in conjunction with the National Wood Window and Door Association (NWWDA) produced a new window manufacturing standard - AAMA/NWWDA 101/I.S.2-97. This is a set of voluntary specifications that vinyl window manufacturers can choose to adopt in the manufacturing process. The specifications create minimum performance standards for factory fabricated windows in the following areas: structural adequacy to withstand wind loads; resistance to water leakage; resistance to air infiltration; and forced entry resistance. Manufacturers who choose to make vinyl window products that pass all of these standards and agree to independent inspections are issued a certification letter. They are also permitted to apply a special label to each window. The AAMA or NWWDA inspectors can make surprise visits at any time to remove windows from the factory assembly line. If a window fails any of the required tests, the manufacturer can lose their certification status. All vinyl window products made after November 1, 1998 must meet all of the standards of AAMA/NWWDA 101/I.S.2-97. Prior to this date vinyl windows could have been tested under an older AAMA standard. Vinyl windows that pass the AAMA/NWWDA 101/I.S.2-97 standard are your assurance that you have an above average window. Try to purchase vinyl windows that meet this certification. The window manufacturers hould be able to produce a letter from AAMA/NWWDA or the windows should have the "seal of approval" label on the window jamb when they are delivered to your house.

Energy Star

The Energy Star certification program is a voluntary partnership program between the United States Department of Energy, the Environmental Protection Agency and different window and door manufacturers. Vinyl windows that carry the Energy Star label save energy. These windows usually exceed the most energy efficient building codes in the nation by 10 to 15 percent. Vinyl windows that are Energy Star certified often are 40 percent more energy efficient than windows that are permitted to be installed under the minimum standards of most building codes.

NFRC

A different organization, the National Fenestration Rating Council (NFRC), has developed uniform standards to test the thermal performance of windows. The NFRC is an independent, non-profit organization made up of representatives from manufacturers, suppliers, builders, specifiers, architects, state code and energy offices, utilities, consumer groups and the federal government. This group has developed a fair, accurate, reliable and credible method to test windows, doors and skylights and report on their energy efficiency. The NFRC testing looks at window performance for winter and summer months. When you heat your home, heat can travel right through the glass. For this reason, the NFRC wants to identify windows that allow the least amount of heat to escape. The heat flow can be measured. Windows that allow the least amount of heat to leave your home during the winter months have low U-value numbers. Heat produced by the sun can travel through glass. If you air condition your home, this extra, unwanted heat has a negative effect on your bank balance. The NFRC tests windows for this summer heat gain. The results of the test produce a number called the Solar Heat Gain Coefficient (SHGC). This number works just like U-values. Low SHGC numbers mean the window glass blocks lots of the solar energy that is trying to enter your house during hot summer days. The testing process produces a sticker that each manufacturer can place on their products. This sticker is very similar to the familiar "miles-per-gallon" sticker you see on new cars. The NFRC sticker applied to the window glass tells you how well the window performs in cold and warm weather. Currently the stickers show a U - factor. Remember, small U - factor numbers equal BIG energy savings for you. The NFRC rating program is currently working on a more "user-friendly" label that will display two numbers - one for heating and one for cooling. Be sure that the windows you purchase have this important NFRC certification label. The NFRC publishes a large book that contains all of the products that they have tested. It is called the Certified Products Directory . It is not uncommon for a quality window company salesperson to carry this book with them on visits to your home. They can open the book and show you that a particular window they sell has - in fact - been certified by the NFRC.

The companies below each have a letter(s) that follows their name. The letter(s) represent the level of certification they have achieved. More letters usually means better windows!

A = AAMA Certified

E = Energy Star Certification

N = NFRC Certification

Acadia Windows and Doors A
Baltimore, MD
Accent Windows A E N
Denver, CO
Accu-Weld E
Bensalem, PA
Acorn Window Systems, Inc. A
Quincy, MI
Advanced Window Systems A
Saddlebrook, NJ
Air Chek Window Depot E
Clifton, NJ
All Weather Windows A N
Edmonton, AB Canada
Alside Window Company A N
Kinston, NC 919-527-5050
Cedar Rapids, IA
Aluma-Glass Industries, Inc. A E N
Nampa, ID
American Vinylcraft, Inc. A
Morton, IL
Amerimax Building Products, Inc. A E
Loveland, CO
Amsco Windows A N
Salt Lake City, UT
Anlin Industries A
Fresno, CA
Applicators Sales & Service, Inc. A
Portland, ME
Atrium Aluminum Products A
Irving, TX
Atrium Door & Window A
Anaheim, CA
Avante Windows A
West Jordan, UT
B & K Window Manufacturing, Inc. A
Woodinville, WA
Barrier Enterprises A
Selinsgrove, PA
Best Built Windows A E N
Yakima, WA
Better Bilt A N
Smyrna, TN
Binnings Building Products, Inc. A
Lexington, NC
Burris & Associates A
Dallas, TX
CertainTeed Corporation A E N
Jackson, MI
Champion Window Manufacturing A E N
Akron/Canton, OH
Atlanta, GA
Charlotte, NC
Cincinnati, OH
Cleveland, OH
Colorado Springs, CO
Columbus, OH
Dayton, OH
Denver, CO
Detroit, MI
Evansville, IN
Ft. Wayne, IN
Greensboro, NC
Indianapolis, IN
Kansas City, KS
Knoxville, TN
Lexington, KY
Louisville, KY
Memphis, TN
Nashville, TN
Pittsburgh, PA
Raleigh/Durham, NC
Richmond, VA
Salt Lake City, UT
St. Louis, MO
Toledo, OH
Chesapeake Window Products A
Richmond, VA
Comfort Window and Door, Inc. E
Syracuse, NY
Continental Vinyl Windows E
Lennon, MI
Danvid Company, Inc. A
Carrolton, TX
Empire Pacific Industries A E N
Eugene & Tualatin, OR
Fashionwall A
Wixom, MI
Gentek Building Products Ltd. A E N
Cleveland, OH
Gerard Manufacturing Co., Inc. A
Cheektowaga, NY
Gerkin Windows & Doors A
Sioux City, IA
Gilkey Window Company A E N
Cincinnati, OH
Chicago Ridge, IL
Dayton, OH
Lexington, KY
Louisville, KY
Palatine, IL
800-878-7771
H & M Vinyl Window Company, Inc. A
Freeport, NY
Hayfield Window & Door Company A
Hayfield, MN
High Performance Manufacturing Corp. A
Baltimore, MD
Insulate Industries, Inc. A E N
Auburn, WA
International Window Corporation A
Hayward, CA
South Gate, CA
Jeld-Wen, Inc. E N
Kent, WA
Jones Paint & Glass, Inc. A E N
Provo, UT
Jordan Company A N
Memphis, TN
KVW Window Company E
Manawa, WI
Kel-Star Building Products A
Woodville, TX
Kinro, Inc. A
Dayton, TN
Linford Brothers A
Salt Lake City, UT
Marshall Vinyl Windows A N
Corona, CA
Mathews Brothers Company E N
Belfast, ME
McVay Brothers Windows E N
Spokane, WA
Mercer Industries, Inc. A N
Beaverton, OR
Midway Industries, Inc. A
Bedfrord Park, IL
Milgard Manufacturing, Inc. A E N
Tacoma, WA
Moeller-Riemer Company A
St. Louis, MO
Norandex A
Bradenton, FL
Outlook Window Partnership A
Colorado Springs, CO
Lincoln, NE
Pacific Window Corporation A N
Banning, CA
Pennco, Inc. A
Ashland, KY
Phillips Products A E N
Elkhart, IN
Polaris Technologies A
Youngstown, OH
Pro-Glass Technology A
Nokomis, FL
Quality Aluminum Products, Inc. A
Louisville, KY
R & S Metals Company, Inc. A
Clarion, PA
Republic Aluminum, Inc. A
Chicago, IL
SealMaster Industries, Inc. A
Rockwood, TN
Sellmore Industries E
Buffalo, NY
Seven D Industries, Inc. A
Patton, PA
Simonton Windows A N
Pennsboro, WV
Soft-Lite Windows A E
Bedford, OH
Solar Industries, Inc. A N
Tuscon, AZ
Starline Windows A E N
Langley, BC Canada
Summit Window & Patio Door A
Corsicana, TX
Cheyenne, WY
Kent, WA
Kingman, AZ
Spokane, WA
Stockton, CA
Yakima, WA
Superior Aluminum Products Company, Inc. A
W. Collingsworth Heights, NJ
Superior Engineered Products Corp. E N
Ontario, CA
Survivor Technologies, Inc. A
Hillside, NJ
Leon, IA
Thermal Line Windows E N
Mandan, ND
Traco A
Cranberry Township, PA
Trilite Company A
Boone, IA
VPI Quality Windows A
Spokane, WA
Viking Industries A E N
Portland, OR
Vinylite Windows A
Fergus Falls, MN
Vi-Rep, Inc. A
New Britain, Ct
Viwinco, Inc. A
Mentor, OH
Morgantown, PA
Weather Shield Manufacturing, Inc. A E N
Medford, WI
Weathervane Window Company E N
Kirkland, WA
Wenco A
Mount Vernon, OH
Ringtown, PA
Western Window A N
Caldwell, ID
Western Windows, Inc. A N
Sacramento, CA
Window Products, Inc. A N
Spokane, WA
Windowmaster Products A E N
El Cajon, CA
Windsor Window Company A
Monroe, NC
W. Des Moines, IA
Yale Orgeon Manufacturing Company, Inc. A
Hialeah, FL

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Preassembled Staircases & Handrail Systems

Posted on September 29, 2005 by Tim Carter

By far, one of the toughest carpentry tasks I have ever tackled is installing a staircase handrail system. It requires immense patience, the proper tools, and precision. Conversations with manufacturers and other carpenters lead me to believe that less than one percent of the finish carpenters in the USA can install such a system.

That probably explains why so many staircase handrail systems out there are loose. When installed correctly, a handrail system is incredibly strong. I know of handrails that have been in heavy use for 50 years that do not wobble or shake. The carpenters who installed these handrails probably worked without the benefit of power tools. I have the utmost respect for these craftsmen and women.

The Foundation

Handrail systems derive their strength primarily from the decorative posts to which the handrails are attached. These are called newel posts. You usually find these at the top and bottom of a staircase, at landings, change of direction and around balconies. Do not confuse newel posts with their baby brothers and sisters, balusters. I will talk about balusters in just a few moments.

Newel posts are often three to four inches in diameter and some have an integral large diameter dowel pin at their base. When installed you cannot see this dowel pin. It is deeply buried in the starting step or in the subfloor framing. There are various other methods used to attach newel posts, but the dowel pin is my personal favorite.

Handrails

There are two basic types of handrail systems: post-to-post and over-the-post. The over-the-post systems are the ones that kids like. These are the ones where the handrail runs uninterrupted from the top of the staircase to the bottom. In other words, if you wanted to slide down the handrail you could do it without hitting a post.

The post-to-post handrails incorporate taller newel posts. The handrail runs from post to post. Often the newel posts have decorative turnings or finials at the top of each post.

It is generally accepted between finish carpenters that an over-the-post system is harder to install. Should you be contemplating this task, BEWARE. Do not underestimate the difficulty of this task!

Stair Parts/Staircases

Decorative open staircases are almost always built in a woodworking shop specifically for your house. The only exception might be tract houses where all of the houses are practically identical. In either case, the staircases come to your house ready to set in place.

The difference in height between the floors connected by the staircase is critical. The stair maker uses this measurement to custom build your steps. As long as this individual does the math correctly, your steps will be comfortable to walk up and down.

Staircases and stair parts have their own language. I think this is done on purpose to telegraph how difficult the entire process really is. For example, words like volute, gooseneck, rosette, pitch block, turnout and balusters are common nomenclature.

If you think learning all those names are tough, just wait till you start working with the actual parts!

Correctly installing a staircase, with a full set of stair parts, can consume a week's worth of labor for a master carpenter and a helper. Just think how long it might take you!

Preassembled Systems

Out of sheer frustration, I believe, staircase and stair parts manufacturers began to completely assemble the entire systems in their factories. Having installed several systems the old-fashioned way, it makes perfect sense. As long as the measurements are accurate from the field, the manufacturer can assemble the entire system at a remote location. They have the tools and expertise.

When shipped to a job site, these systems require a person who can read, who has patience and who can apply glue. Now this sounds like something anybody can do.

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Preassembled Staircases & Handrails – Manufacturers

Posted on September 29, 2005 by Tim Carter

Manufacturers of Preassembled Staircases & Handrails

The following manufacturers make preassembled staircases and/or handrail systems. Many of them have extremely detailed literature that shows you their full line of products, measuring methods, and other things you need to consider when thinking about a stair purchase.

Be sure you investigate the products of each one of these. Some may be far easier to assemble than others. Measurements are extremely critical. If at all possible, ask for references and call or go visit a local jobsite where the staircase or handrail was installed.

Do not underestimate the degree of difficulty in this project. You may think it is simple, but it requires enormous skill, even to assemble some of these kits. The people who say it is easy are the ones who have done it twenty or more times.

AJ Stairs
Arcways Stair Parts
David Lennox Woodworking
Deer Park Stairbuilding/Millwork
Duvinage Corporation
Image Design Staircases
L.J. Smith Stair Systems
Mylen Industries
Sierra Stair Company
Southern Staircase
Staircase & Millwork Corp.
Designed Stairs, Inc.
Woodsmiths Design & Mfg.

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Measuring for Handrails / Staircases

Posted on September 29, 2005 by Tim Carter

Measuring for Handrails /Staircases

Prior to measuring for your staircase, you need to think ahead to your finished flooring material. You must make these selections for both the top and bottom of the stairs. The reason for this is simple: the stair builder needs to know the height dimension between the two floors from finish floor to finish floor.

When measuring between floors, you cannot simply drop a tape measure from the balcony above in a straight line to the floor below. Why? Well, the first floor subfloor may be out of level. It wouldn't be the first time this sort of thing happened.

The stair builder will tell you that you need to know where the stairs will start and where exactly they will end. It is this vertical distance that is crucial. So how in the world do you do this? There are several ways, but I prefer to make a level line along the wall which the stairwell will climb. If the staircase makes a turn, no problem. Start the line at the subfloor at the upper landing. Continue the line until you are directly above the spot where the stairs will end. Measure between the two points and you will have the magic number!

If you are getting ready to build a new home, talk with the rough carpenter. Make sure that they use the straightest floor joist materials around the staircase. Also, stress how important it is for these floors to be level.

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Handrail & Staircase Installation

Posted on September 29, 2005 by Tim Carter

Staircase & Handrail Installation

If you purchase a high-quality staircase and provide accurate dimensions as called for by the stair builder, your staircase will install with no problems.

Plan on having two or three people handy, some clamps and an assortment of power tools. There will be no need for precise drilling on the stair parts. This will already be completed.

The most important thing to do is to take whatever time is necessary to read the directions from cover to cover. Then, hand them to your Number One assistant and make them read the instructions. Sure, this may take an extra 15 minutes, but it will pay off.

Do exactly as the stair builder says. Do not take shortcuts. If you begin to assemble the handrail and skip a step, you may be unable to install one piece or another. Sometimes you cannot go back a step!

Above all, take your time. Patience will be rewarded with a beautiful installation.

Finishing

Many stair builders suggest that their products be finished as rapidly as possible. You may be required to perform hand sanding to give the railing and all parts a really smooth feel.

Ask the manufacturer to supply you with scrap pieces of handrail and or fittings for test staining purposes. Test various stains, let them dry and then apply the finish of choice to see which color you will like. Don't experiment on your finished handrail!!

The key to finishing lies in the amount of hand sanding. The smoother the wood prior to staining, the better it will look when complete. It may be to your benefit to sand many of the pieces prior to assembly. This will eliminate the hard to sand spots where one stair part meets another. If you choose to do this, you need to constantly work with clean hands to avoid smudges on the wood.

All that will be required when complete is a quick finish sanding. Be sure to sand between coats of urethane. Plus, consider applying four to five coats of urethane for a long-lasting finish.

Balusters

Would you like a really unique handrail system? One that will be the envy of your friends and neighbors? It's easy to do. All you need to do is use the balusters (commonly referred to as spindles) in your handrail system as a decorative element.

Balusters come in various shapes and styles. Many of them are the same basic shape, but with alternate carvings or turnings. My wife designed our handrail system. It always is the center of attention when someone enters our house.

She used three different kinds of balusters in our system. They simply repeat as you go up or down the staircase (1, 2, 3, 1, 2, 3......) It is a very dramatic effect. You can also install three balusters per tread for a dramatic look. Most staircases only have two. The last old house I lived in had three per step. It was extremely distinctive and beautiful.

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Manufacturers of High Performance Vapor Barriers

Expert Advice For Your Home