By far, one of the toughest carpentry tasks I have ever tackled is installing a staircase handrail system. It requires immense patience, the proper tools, and precision. Conversations with manufacturers and other carpenters lead me to believe that less than one percent of the finish carpenters in the USA can install such a system.

CLICK this image and listen to the second call on the podcast. I talk to Tracey about where to get great stair parts and how to find a carpenter to install them. Copyright 2018 Tim Carter

That probably explains why so many staircase handrail systems out there are loose. When installed correctly, a handrail system is incredibly strong. I know of handrails that have been in heavy use for 50 years that do not wobble or shake. The carpenters who installed these handrails probably worked without the benefit of power tools. I have the utmost respect for these craftsmen and women.

The Foundation

Handrail systems derive their strength primarily from the decorative posts to which the handrails are attached. These are called newel posts. You usually find these at the top and bottom of a staircase, at landings, change of direction and around balconies. Do not confuse newel posts with their baby brothers and sisters, balusters. I will talk about balusters in just a few moments.

Newel posts are often three to four inches in diameter and some have an integral large diameter dowel pin at their base. When installed you cannot see this dowel pin. It is deeply buried in the starting step or in the subfloor framing. There are various other methods used to attach newel posts, but the dowel pin is my personal favorite.

Handrails

There are two basic types of handrail systems: post-to-post and over-the-post. The over-the-post systems are the ones that kids like. These are the ones where the handrail runs uninterrupted from the top of the staircase to the bottom. In other words, if you wanted to slide down the handrail you could do it without hitting a post.

The post-to-post handrails incorporate taller newel posts. The handrail runs from post to post. Often the newel posts have decorative turnings or finials at the top of each post.

It is generally accepted between finish carpenters that an over-the-post system is harder to install. Should you be contemplating this task, BEWARE. Do not underestimate the difficulty of this task!

Stair Parts/Staircases

Decorative open staircases are almost always built in a woodworking shop specifically for your house. The only exception might be tract houses where all of the houses are practically identical. In either case, the staircases come to your house ready to set in place.

The difference in height between the floors connected by the staircase is critical. The stair maker uses this measurement to custom build your steps. As long as this individual does the math correctly, your steps will be comfortable to walk up and down.

Staircases and stair parts have their own language. I think this is done on purpose to telegraph how difficult the entire process really is. For example, words like volute, gooseneck, rosette, pitch block, turnout and balusters are common nomenclature.

If you think learning all those names are tough, just wait till you start working with the actual parts!

Correctly installing a staircase, with a full set of stair parts, can consume a week's worth of labor for a master carpenter and a helper. Just think how long it might take you!

Preassembled Systems

Out of sheer frustration, I believe, staircase and stair parts manufacturers began to completely assemble the entire systems in their factories. Having installed several systems the old-fashioned way, it makes perfect sense. As long as the measurements are accurate from the field, the manufacturer can assemble the entire system at a remote location. They have the tools and expertise.

When shipped to a job site, these systems require a person who can read, who has patience and who can apply glue. Now this sounds like something anybody can do.

Column B87

Manufacturers of Preassembled Staircases & Handrails

The following manufacturers make preassembled staircases and/or handrail systems. Many of them have extremely detailed literature that shows you their full line of products, measuring methods, and other things you need to consider when thinking about a stair purchase.

CLICK this image and listen to the second call on the podcast. I talk to Tracey about where to find traditional stair parts and how to get a carpenter to install them. Copyright 2018 Tim Carter

Be sure you investigate the products of each one of these. Some may be far easier to assemble than others. Measurements are extremely critical. If at all possible, ask for references and call or go visit a local jobsite where the staircase or handrail was installed.

Do not underestimate the degree of difficulty in this project. You may think it is simple, but it requires enormous skill, even to assemble some of these kits. The people who say it is easy are the ones who have done it twenty or more times.

• AJ Stairs
• Arcways Stair Parts
• David Lennox Woodworking
• Deer Park Stairbuilding/Millwork
• Duvinage Corporation
• Image Design Staircases
• L.J. Smith Stair Systems
• Mylen Industries
• Sierra Stair Company
• Southern Staircase
• Staircase & Millwork Corp.
• Designed Stairs, Inc.
• Woodsmiths Design & Mfg.

Column B87

Measuring for Handrails /Staircases

Prior to measuring for your staircase, you need to think ahead to your finished flooring material. You must make these selections for both the top and bottom of the stairs. The reason for this is simple: the stair builder needs to know the height dimension between the two floors from finish floor to finish floor.

When measuring between floors, you cannot simply drop a tape measure from the balcony above in a straight line to the floor below. Why? Well, the first floor subfloor may be out of level. It wouldn't be the first time this sort of thing happened.

The stair builder will tell you that you need to know where the stairs will start and where exactly they will end. It is this vertical distance that is crucial. So how in the world do you do this? There are several ways, but I prefer to make a level line along the wall which the stairwell will climb. If the staircase makes a turn, no problem. Start the line at the subfloor at the upper landing. Continue the line until you are directly above the spot where the stairs will end. Measure between the two points and you will have the magic number!

If you are getting ready to build a new home, talk with the rough carpenter. Make sure that they use the straightest floor joist materials around the staircase. Also, stress how important it is for these floors to be level.

Column B87

Staircase & Handrail Installation

If you purchase a high-quality staircase and provide accurate dimensions as called for by the stair builder, your staircase will install with no problems.

Plan on having two or three people handy, some clamps and an assortment of power tools. There will be no need for precise drilling on the stair parts. This will already be completed.

The most important thing to do is to take whatever time is necessary to read the directions from cover to cover. Then, hand them to your Number One assistant and make them read the instructions. Sure, this may take an extra 15 minutes, but it will pay off.

CLICK this image and listen to the second call on the podcast. I talk to Tracey about how to find traditional stair parts and who to install them. Copyright 2018 Tim Carter

Do exactly as the stair builder says. Do not take shortcuts. If you begin to assemble the handrail and skip a step, you may be unable to install one piece or another. Sometimes you cannot go back a step!

Above all, take your time. Patience will be rewarded with a beautiful installation.

Finishing

Many stair builders suggest that their products be finished as rapidly as possible. You may be required to perform hand sanding to give the railing and all parts a really smooth feel.

Ask the manufacturer to supply you with scrap pieces of handrail and or fittings for test staining purposes. Test various stains, let them dry and then apply the finish of choice to see which color you will like. Don't experiment on your finished handrail!!

The key to finishing lies in the amount of hand sanding. The smoother the wood prior to staining, the better it will look when complete. It may be to your benefit to sand many of the pieces prior to assembly. This will eliminate the hard to sand spots where one stair part meets another. If you choose to do this, you need to constantly work with clean hands to avoid smudges on the wood.

All that will be required when complete is a quick finish sanding. Be sure to sand between coats of urethane. Plus, consider applying four to five coats of urethane for a long-lasting finish.

Balusters

Would you like a really unique handrail system? One that will be the envy of your friends and neighbors? It's easy to do. All you need to do is use the balusters (commonly referred to as spindles) in your handrail system as a decorative element.

Balusters come in various shapes and styles. Many of them are the same basic shape, but with alternate carvings or turnings. My wife designed our handrail system. It always is the center of attention when someone enters our house.

She used three different kinds of balusters in our system. They simply repeat as you go up or down the staircase (1, 2, 3, 1, 2, 3......) It is a very dramatic effect. You can also install three balusters per tread for a dramatic look. Most staircases only have two. The last old house I lived in had three per step. It was extremely distinctive and beautiful.

Column B87

Architectural interior and exterior millwork can really make the difference on a home. Have you ever been in an older house? What makes an old home different from a new one? The walls are usually the same - that is, a smooth surface. The ceilings are the same too, although in an older home they might be one or two feet higher. The only difference is usually the woodwork. Older homes had generous woodwork and millwork. Labor and the wood itself was abundant and cheap. As we know, these things have changed! Labor costs are outrageous. It can cost you a king's ransom today to attempt to recreate in wood the detailing you see on an older home. Urethane millwork, however, has come to the rescue to minimize labor costs.

Compound Moldings

When you look at crown moldings on the inside or outside of a house, you are often looking at three or four different pieces of wood. In some instances there are hidden rough pieces of lumber that are needed to fill out gaps and provide a nailing surface for the exposed pieces. The labor cost to install all of these pieces can be enormous. Urethane millwork can often duplicate these compound moldings in one profile! You only have to install one large piece of trim.

Just Like Wood

The urethane products are in many ways just like wood. You use the same tools to install it and shape it. Most people already own the few simple tools you need to work with this wonder material.

Here is a typical list of tools you need:

To install and finish the urethane millwork, you will need the following materials:

Column B213

Limitations of Urethane Millwork

Many of the pieces of urethane millwork - especially exterior pieces - look as if they could support weight. Columns are examples of this. Urethane millwork is NON-structural. This means they are for decorative purposes only.

Each manufacturer often has unique installation procedures. They are not difficult to follow. However, I recommend that you read the instructions twice before attempting to install your millwork or before the carpenter does. You want to make sure that it is done correctly!

Keep the millwork out of direct, hot sunlight while working with it. Urethane millwork can and does expand. This expansion needs to be accounted for. If you install a piece that has lots of retained heat and has already expanded, it may shrink and leave a gap. The manufacturers give you specific instructions on how to deal with this.

Urethane and Vinyl Siding

Urethane door surrounds and other trim pieces look great with vinyl siding. You can get into problems though if you are not careful. When you install urethane over vinyl, you need to incorporate an extra step in the fastening process.

Vinyl siding expands and contracts with changes in temperature. If you nail it tightly in place, it will buckle when it gets hot. Nails that penetrate from the urethane into vinyl siding need to pass through enlarged holes in the vinyl siding. To achieve this, you have to tack the urethane trim in place so it makes holes in the vinyl. You then remove the urethane trim and enlarge the holes in the vinyl. It is best to enlarge the holes at least three times the diameter of the nail shaft.

Once all the holes are drilled out, you then fill them with caulk. Immediately, reposition the urethane trim and drive the nails into the enlarged, caulked holes.

Patience and Measuring

Some urethane millwork trim is expensive. If you make a mistake, you often have an expensive scrap piece of trim. Take your time when measuring and cutting.

Many of the products are supposed to be cut long and snapped into position. Sometimes you are supposed to cut the pieces 1/4 inch extra for every 10 feet of length. Remember, you can always cut off more! Cut a piece a little long and test fit it. If you are working with another person, ALWAYS calibrate your tape measures! If the hooked end is bent (from dropping it), you can be off by 1/8 to 1/4 inch easily!

Column B213

Urethane Millwork Manufacturers

This is a growing industry. Urethane is a unique material in that it is unaffected by water. You can't say that about wood! It can also be formed into any imaginable shape with minimal or no material waste. Once the mold is constructed, urethane foam is injected into the tightly sealed mold. To duplicate this with wood, you often have to start with a block and cut, route and shape. This produces waste wood in the form of shavings and sawdust. You pay for this dust when you buy your wood moldings. Granted, the dust is often used in some other process or product, but it still adds to the cost of a wood molding.

There are hundreds of designs and profiles. There are just too many to list. Look at all of the manufacturers listed. Wait till you see the HUGE variety of moldings, trim, etc.!

I can just about guarantee you that you will find the urethane millwork you need to add that finishing touch to the interior or exterior of your home.

• Chemcrest Architectural Products
   
• Balmer Architectural Mouldings

• Focal Point Architectural Products
  

• Fypon

• Spectis Moulders, Inc.

• Style Solutions, Inc.

Column B213

Can you imagine having a staircase with breathtaking wainscoting? How about a family room wall? A dining room, a study or den, even a living room? The possibilities are endless. These types of finishing details used to be available only to those flush with cash. Advancements in technology and materials are allowing folks like you and me the opportunity to adorn our houses with this splendid interior treatment.

Dust, Straw, Glue & Veneer

Traditional wainscoting was made from solid wood. This was fine when hardwoods were abundant. Solid wood is nice, but it has its problems. For one, it is a hygroscopic material. This means that it responds to changes in humidity. In other words, it can shrink and swell. This type of movement can cause cracks in raised panels and it can create cracks in the finishes where the panels slide into the horizontal and vertical rails that surround the panels.

This problem has been solved by at least one innovative company - New England Classic Interiors. The wainscoting they make uses lots of engineered wood products. Certain parts are made with medium density fiberboard. The raised panels are actually made from recycled wheat straw. All parts are then covered with high quality wood veneers or paint-grade melamine. The net result is a stable, solid, affordable product that will set your house apart from all others in the subdivision!

Cost Comparisons

What does this wonderful wainscoting cost? It depends on how you decide to finish it. Paint grade material is far less expensive than wainscoting you intend to stain. You can get paint grade wainscoting from New England Classic Interiors for about $6.00 per square foot. This is what I am using in my dining room. If you want their stain grade cherry, oak or maple, be prepared to go as high as $20 per square foot. If you think these prices are high, wait till you see the closest competitor's price sheet!

Click here to watch a video on installing Wainscoting.

Design Services

Both companies that I found who can readily supply wainscoting offer design services. The New England Classic Interiors system is very user friendly. You can go to their website and design your own system and price it out at the same time.

Related Link:

Wainscoting – Distinctive Wall Paneling

Column B299

Installation

Can you install wainscoting yourself? If you start with a simple room that has straightforward walls, the answer is "Yes!" Difficult jobs should only be tackled by a finish carpenter or after you have gained some experience.

The tricks with working with wainscoting are the following:

1. Be sure the layout and all design dimensions are accurate. Double and triple check before ordering the material.
2. Be sure the base rail of the system is level. If it isn't, as you add panels and such, they will be out of level and out of plumb when you get to corners!
3. Measure twice - cut once. Mistakes with this material are costly and can slow down completion times.
4. Start on a small wall to see how the components fit together.
5. Pre-paint all components if that is the finish. Be sure no paint buildup is present where pieces interlock.
6. Watch out for electrical boxes. You may have to move an electrical box to make sure it ends up on the flat portion of a panel. This is not the end of the world. Who cares if you destroy a little drywall? The panel will cover it!
7. Consider renting a pneumatic or impulse nailer. Hand nailing this material is tricky. You don't want to make a mistake. Air nailers countersink the nails automatically.
8. Back cut stiles that end up in corners. Only the face of the material has to touch the stile on the other side of the corner. Set your table saw at less than a 90 degree angle to accomplish this.
9. Follow all directions to the letter. If you don't understand something, call the manufacturer!
10. For stained systems apply stain and clear finish before filling nail holes. Use a matching color putty and a small brush or Q-Tip to apply clear finish to the color putty after it has dried. NEVER apply nail filler to wood before staining.

Click here to watch a video on installing wainscoting.

Column B299