Penetrating Masonry Sealers & Stains, Maintenance, & Manufacturers

Penetrating Masonry Stains & Sealers

People like colors. Colors allow tremendous decorating possibilities. They freshen and brighten things. Not too long ago, the only way to apply color and weather protection to the outside surfaces of a house was by using paint.

Modern technology has offered us alternatives. Penetrating stains and sealers are available which allow us to protect exterior surfaces without some of the disadvantages of paint.

Paints, for the most part, are coatings. After they are applied, most paints adhere to the outside surface of the object they are coating. Rarely do they penetrate into the surface of the object being painted.

In some cases, this attribute is a positive quality. For example, paint allows you to achieve a surface texture somewhat different than the substrate. Paint can make things smoother, especially when applied in successive layers.

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However, because paint (in almost all instances) is a coating, it is highly susceptible to peeling and blistering. Virtually every homeowner has dealt with this problem. Often, people mistakenly blame the paint or coating, when in fact it has nothing to do with the product.

Peeling and blistering often develop as a result of vapor pressure which passes through the object (wood siding, plaster,concrete, stucco, etc.) and subsequently pushes the paint out of the way. Simply put, vapor pressure can exceed the bonding strength of paints.

For this reason, research and development teams at coatings (paint) companies tried another angle.They decided to develop products which would allow you to achieve all protection and decorating goals, but avoid the peeling and blistering problems.

They did this by developing penetrating stains and sealers. Many of these products can be tinted to any color. Some of them are clear. They can achieve spectacular results when properly applied.

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Exterior masonry surfaces are perfect substrates (surfaces) for these products. Although masonry surfaces look 'solid', they are in fact far from it. Masonry surfaces, when viewed under a microscope, look somewhat like a sponge.

There are void spaces for water and small particles to enter. The penetrating stains and sealers take advantage of these void spaces. Many of these products contain solids (resins, pigments, etc.) which are carried into the void spaces by the liquid portion (vehicle) of the stains or sealers.

When the liquid portion evaporates, the solid particles are left behind to produce color, provide protection, or both! It really is very simple when you think about it.

Several manufacturers of these products have gone the extra mile. They have formulated their products so that they do not totally block the void spaces. This is extremely important.

If you purchase a product which does, in fact, block all of the void spaces you can get into trouble. Remember what I said several paragraphs ago, about vapor pressure and products that block the movement of water vapor?

In certain climates, you need water vapor to freely pass through masonry, cement, or wood. For example, in colder climates the humidity levels inside of heated houses is almost always higher than the colder outside air humidity levels.

These levels strive for equilibrium. That is, the high humidity is attracted to the areas of lower humidity. If you use a stain or sealer which blocks water vapor movement you can have a problem.

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The water vapor can collect next to the stain or sealer, condense into a liquid, freeze, and subsequently damage the surface of the object you are trying to protect! For this reason, you must determine that the product you use does not restrict the movement of water vapor.

On the other hand, there may be instances when you wish to block water vapor movement. For example, let's say that your basement walls, floor or regular floor slab was not damp-proofed or treated in some manner to block water vapor transmission.

Water or dampness in the soil will constantly try to get to a drier area (the air on the other side of the wall or slab). There are sealers made which will completely block water vapor movement in these cases.

Just make sure you use the right product for the right job. Also, in the event that you decide to use a product indoors, BEWARE of products that contain hydrocarbons or other explosive vehicles!!!!

These products produce fumes which can readily explode. The pilot light from furnaces or water heaters can easily ignite them. Be sure to read product labels!!!!

Tips on Stucco Maintenance

Stucco, because it is a cement-based material, can be extremely durable. When properly mixed and installed, it can be virtually maintenance free. However, some people do not particularly like the color of stucco in its natural state.

Also, in some climates, it is advantageous to protect stucco. For example, in hot, dry climates, stucco may experience excessive efflorescence caused by rain water or sprinkler water which saturates unprotected stucco.

Stucco, in wet climates, can absorb water and cause interior damage. You need to study the climate factors in your area and plan accordingly. There are publications which can help you.

The Portland Cement Association (PCA) has several fine publications which deal with stucco. Two of them immediately come to mind. The Concrete Masonry Handbook and The Homeowner's Guide to Building with Concrete, Brick, & Stone have very good descriptions covering stucco or Portland cement plaster, as it is commonly referred to.

Also, be sure to check out the PCA's online Bookstore. While much of their literature is written for the professional, much of it is very clear and understandable for the average homeowner. Many of their books and pamphlets may interest you.

Manufacturers of Masonry Stains & Sealants

Following is a partial list of companies which manufacture certain masonry stains and sealants. Many of them make environmentally friendly water based products. Also, be sure to read the specific installation guidelines.

When applied to new masonry surfaces, often it is very important as to how soon a product can be applied to the fresh (non-dry) masonry. Be sure to ask and get it in writing to avoid misunderstandings!!

  • Decosup
  • Fabcrete
  • Benjamin Moore Paints
  • Rainguard Color-Lok
  • Waterlox Chemical & Coating Corp.
  • Tamms - Euclid Chemical Company
  • Weather-Bos International

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Stucco

Stucco is a very fashionable building material. In my opinion, it is the chameleon of building materials. In other words, stucco looks just as good on a southwestern style house as it does on a stately English Tudor home. Textures and patterns are infinite in most cases. The talents of the applicator are your only restraint. The durability and beauty of the product was discovered thousands of years ago. Time has simply allowed us to improve the materials and methods of installation.

The Two Types

Stucco is available in two basic forms: cement and synthetic. Cement stucco has been available for thousands of years. It is simply a mixture of Portland cement, sand and lime. Basically it is just fine grained concrete. When it dries it is very hard and durable.

In the early 1970's, synthetic stucco, or EIFS, made its debut.This product is a stucco material used in conjunction with an insulation system. A building is first covered with foam insulation sheets and then with a thin one or two coat layer of synthetic stucco. The use of foam allows a building to be super insulated. In addition, the foam can be layered and sculpted to produce interesting designs and shapes.

Synthetic stucco was a branch of the plastics industry explosion of the 1960's and 70's. The plastics industry was churning out a multitude of products and they took a stab at the stucco market. The synthetic stuccos are primarily acrylic co-polymers which are durable plastics. It worked. The synthetic stucco compounds proved to be super durable and waterproof. In fact, they were too waterproof!

Old Lessons Forgotten

As synthetic stucco usage expanded, the manufacturers seemed to forget lessons learned by the cement stucco installers. The cement stucco industry had long ago learned how to control water infiltration into their systems. They knew that if you didn't control and rechannel the water back to the surface, there could be catastrophic damage to the wood framing systems behind the stucco. The old cement stucco masons used tar paper and metal flashings. In addition, the cement stucco was a breathable material. If it got wet or saturated, it would allow the trapped water vapor to escape to the exterior, even if painted. The synthetic stucco people didn't seem to pay attention to these details.

What's Rotten in NC?

There has been much publicity lately about discoveries with rot problems in conjunction with EIFS houses in North Carolina. A random check of other houses across the USA that are covered with EIFS found similar problems. The EIFS material, the acrylic polymers, seem to work too well. They will not allow water to easily escape. In fact, some allow virtually no water vapor transmission whatsoever. Furthermore, several major manufacturers abandoned the use of any waterproof membrane or paper between the wood framing and the insulation board. Thus, if water enters the system around a window, door, flashing, etc. It can begin to damage the structure from the inside out!

Water Management Systems

The USG Corporation conducted a study not too long ago. The results of their study prompted them to be the first company to react to the deficiencies of the first EIFS products. They currently are the only EIFS manufacturer that is producing a total system which utilizes the lessons learned over time by the cement stucco masons. Their EIFS system promotes the use of a breathable acrylic compound, the use of cement board and insulation board as a substrate, a water barrier paper and metal flashings. It is my understanding, that the other major manufacturers are rapidly modifying their product line in response to the rot problems.

The Bottom Line

Stucco is a great material. If you have it installed correctly, it will very likely outlast you. The key is to choose which material suits your tastes. Then make sure you install it so that water which will invariably get behind the stucco can get out before it damages the wood framing of your home.

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Stucco – Colorizing & EIFS Manufacturers

Cement Stucco Stains & Water Repellents

Following is a partial listing of cement stain and water repellent manufacturers. If you have a cement stucco house and wish to colorize it or leave it natural and protect it from the weather, it is possible to do so with some of the modern products. Painting stucco is not a bad idea, however, if water vapor wishes to escape, it will "push" the paint off of the stucco. Some of the companies have water based products that are very environmental. Beware of film forming clear sealants!! Look for clear products that are either silanes, siloxanes, or a blend of the two ingredients. Do not use silicone based products!!!! Also, watch out for products that contain paraffin. These form a film and rarely are they able to breathe. This can spell big trouble if you live in a cold climate!

  • Andek Chemical Corp.
  • Dyco Paints Inc.
  • ChemRex Hydrozo
  • Fuller - O'Brien
  • Saver Systems

EIFS System Manufacturers

Here is a list of the major manufacturers of the EIFS synthetic stucco systems. At the present time, USG Corporation is the only manufacturer that offers a system which addresses water infiltration problems. Check out the manufacturers and have them send you information regarding color selections, characteristics, and availability. A few minutes of your time will yield huge results.

  • Dryvit Systems
  • Finestone
  • Omega Products
  • Parex Inc.
  • Pleko Products
  • Senergy, Inc.
  • Sto Corporation

Cement Stucco Installation Manual

If you want to encase your home in rock, then you will need to read the Portland Cement Plaster/Stucco Manual. This is an excellent publication written by the staff members of the Portland Cement Association.

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Solving Stucco Problems

Solving Stucco Problems

Efflorescence

A major problem that many homeowners with stucco homes have is efflorescence. This is the white dust or deposits that mysteriously form on the surface of the stucco. Efflorescence is simply a by product of evaporating water. People in the southwest are plagued with this problem at the bottoms of their houses. The stucco soaks up moisture from the soil which contains dissolved salts. The water evaporates and leaves the salts at the surface. Rinsing with water does nothing. It just drives the salt temporarily back into the stucco. The salts will return!

Efflorescence growing in the mortar of a brick fireplace. PHOTO CREDIT: Michael Hannum

Efflorescence growing in the mortar of a brick fireplace. PHOTO CREDIT: Michael Hannum

This condition can be solved by preventing water from entering the stucco. In the case of our southwestern friends, the stucco beneath grade level needs to be sealed. That way water from the ground can't get in. The entire foundation may have to be sealed to prevent the efflorescence.

Cracking - Random

If you have a cement stucco house with cracks, the cracks may be caused by several different things. If it is a new house, the cracks could be from lumber shrinkage. Older houses that develop cracks can be the victims of soil movement. Southern California houses get their cracks from earthquake shaking. Houses not properly designed can actually crack from wind pressure!

Fixing cracks is tough. To make a permanent repair you must be sure that the house isn't going to move again at that location. That may be a tough bill to fill.

Crack Repair

OK, so you want to fix the crack. Remove all of the loose stucco. I prefer that you do this repair on an overcast, cool day if at all possible. You will need to locate sand that is close to the texture of what your stucco looks like. What? You didn't know sand comes in different sizes? You bet it does.

Buy a bag of Portland cement. Mix the sand and cement together dry. I like a mixture of two parts moist sand to 1 part cement. Remove the dust from the crack and slightly moisten the old stucco. After mixing water with the sand and cement to a mortar-like consistency, fill the crack. Let it set for a few minutes. Using a sponge, brush or trowel, do whatever is necessary to mimic the texture that the original master created. It will take practice, trust me! Patience is everything.

Over the years, I've seen many different spellings of efflorescence. Here's my growing list: effervesce, effervescence, effervescent, effleresants, effloreflance, efflorescence, efflorressance, effluorescence, eflorescence, eflorescents, ellforesce and ifflorescence.

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The EIFS Controversy

WOW! Talk about a controversy. If you want to get into a firefight in the building products industry, then start calling Exterior Insulation Finishing Systems (EIFS) manufacturers. This is warfare to say the very least. Why? Because huge corporations' futures are at risk. The stakes in the game are huge - I would say somewhere above the stratosphere. The synthetic stucco problem is bad and it is getting worse each and every day as more and more houses are covered with barrier EIFS systems that do not allow water to escape from behind the material.

Water Intrusion

For any number of reasons, it is a known fact in the building industry that water gets past (behind) exterior wall coverings, windows, doors, brick, vent pipes, hose bibs, electric service entrance cables, siding, etc. Old builders knew this well. That is why you see tar paper behind wood clapboard siding and asbestos shingles. Some builders and sub-contractors have never seen tar paper on older homes. I am convinced this is part of the reason why this barrier EIFS problem has arisen. The knowledge gained over hundreds of years by old cement stucco craftsmen was nearly forgotten in just one generation! Fortunately, some of us refuse to allow this knowledge to be discarded.

Rot Conditions

The Engineered Wood Association has published in their APA News data that supports that wood rot and decay can progress in wood that has a prolonged moisture content of 20 to 25 percent. Barrier EIFS homes can create ideal conditions for moisture contents that reach and exceed this level. Why? Because barrier EIFS itself blocks the movement of water and vast quantities of water vapor. Couple this with interior vapor barriers required by just about every model building code and you have problems.

Keep in mind that every other exterior cladding system for residential homes allows water and water vapor to escape back to the atmosphere. Some allow this moisture to be transported more quickly than others. This means that poor construction practices and lack of maintenance can cause wood rot problems in just about any residential home. Barrier EIFS homes don't give you a fighting chance. If water gets past the caulk joints between the barrier EIFS coating and those things on your house that aren't barrier EIFS, your wood sheathing and wood structural members will eventually rot to some degree.

The rate of wood rot will depend upon your climate, the amount of water that is intruding, the annual rainfall, etc. Trust me, wood rot happens in Arizona - it just takes longer than if you live in Louisiana or North Carolina.

How Serious?

If you currently own a barrier EIFS home you should be concerned. The newer water-managed EIFS products are only several years old. A vast majority of EIFS homes that are currently built are barrier EIFS. You can easily detect a barrier EIFS home by looking at where the synthetic stucco touches windows, doors, and pipes. If there are no flashings at these locations, you have barrier EIFS.

What Can be Done?

If you do have barrier EIFS on your house and there is wood rot damage, you can repair it. It is not easy to do. The absolute best method is to completely remove the barrier EIFS product and install a new water managed system. It is a painful process, but the only one that will afford you peace of mind. You also have the option of totally abandoning the EIFS system altogether. You can apply a siding product in its place.

Inspecting for Water Damage

People who have barrier EIFS homes who want to see if they have water damage should contact the American Society of Home Inspectors. By going to their web site, you can find a certified home inspector near you - searching by zip code.

Inspections can rarely be performed by the average homeowner. You need specialized testing equipment and sophisticated moisture meters. This task is best left to an experienced home inspector and/or a structural engineer who has performed EIFS inspections. Don't become someone's lab rat. In other words, don't let some company use your house as their on-the-job training for barrier EIFS inspecting.

Litigation

If you want to see if you qualify for relief under a class action lawsuit, it is best for you to call the Attorney General of your state. Once certified, these lawsuits are monitored and tracked by these officials. Remember, the Attorney General is your attorney who is there to protect you and your rights. An efficiently run office will quickly tell you if there is an EIFS lawsuit in your state at this time. I predict that you will see more and more of these suits in the upcoming months and years.

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EIFS Companies

EIMA Association EIFS Manufacturers

Following is a listing of companies that belong to the EIFS Industry Members Association (EIMA). Most, if not all of these companies manufacturer a Barrier EIFS product that can be used on residential homes. Some of them also offer EIFS products that incorporate a water barrier membrane and drainage products like flashings and other special features. The problem is that when I asked the EIMA association for written guidelines they could offer that tell a person or builder where it is "safe" to use barrier EIFS, they refused to answer. Go figure! The president of the EIMA also refused to be interviewed by me. The EIMA group also has drawn a line in the sand with respect to the wood rot problems that are cropping up in virtually every market where barrier EIFS has been used. They don't think they are at fault. They blame windows, installers and just about every other stationary and moving target. If you want more information about the EIFS products and systems offered by the following manufacturers, you need to contact each one separately.

  • ACROCRETE, INC.
  • DRYVIT SYSTEMS, INC.
  • DEGUSSA WALL SYSTEMS - FINESTONE

  • OMEGA PRODUCTS CORP.
  • PAREX, INC.
  • PLEKO SYSTEMS INTERNATIONAL, INC.
  • STO CORPORATION
  • TEC PRODUCTS
  • TEIFS WALL SYSTEMS

The Other Guys

One company is now left alone leading the fight against barrier EIFS systems. It is Senergy. USG had been battling this war with Senergy but in April of 2001 they retreated and shut down their EIFS product line. In fact, Senergy was an EIMA member up until September 20, 1998! They finally saw the light and resigned from EIMA on September 21, 1998. USG was never an EIMA member. USG re-engineered the water managed concept that was used for years by the old cement stucco craftsmen. But they simply couldn't sell enough or felt the inherent liability was too much. We will never really know. Senergy still makes and sells a barrier EIFS product, but it is for commercial use only. If a contractor proposes to use EIFS on your home and it is a Senergy product, you MUST inspect it and make sure it is their Senturion product. This is the one that is water managed.

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Dust Mask Manufacturers

Dust Mask Manufacturers

There are many different types of dust masks. This is due to the many different dust and vapor conditions that may exist in a construction site. Before purchasing a dust mask, try to anticipate all future needs. Consider purchasing a dust mask that will filter a wide range of particle sizes. Think of the uses you may have for the mask in the future.

Some masks are disposable, while others have cleanable or replaceable filters. Disposable dust masks may work for you if you feel that you only need them for a small period of time. Dust masks with replaceable filters are generally designed for long term continual usage. They also are usually constructed so that you get a much tighter fit around your nose and mouth. Obviously, a tight and comfortable fit is important.

Be sure that the mask you purchase will filter the dust particles which you will be subjected to. Not all masks filter the same size particles effectively. The manufacturer can usually provide you with this data upon request. Don't hesitate to request this information if you are dealing with hazardous dust particles such as asbestos or lead.

Some masks will filter dust and harmful vapors. These masks can be used while spray painting or applying products which generate harmful fumes. These masks are also very specific. Make sure that the mask you purchase will filter the fumes you will be confronted with.

  • Direct Safety Company

  • Moldex

  • Survivair

  • Louis M. Gerson Inc.
  • 3M

 

08/2008

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Dust Control Tips

Dust Control Tips

Following are some helpful ideas to minimize the spread of dust when building or remodeling around your home. You may be familiar with some of these techniques.

Avoid sweeping with a broom. Use a shop vacuum cleaner if at all possible. Change the filter regularly. Install a damp sponge over the exhaust port as a secondary filter. Be careful of the potential for electrical shock hazard. Clean the sponge regularly and make sure it remains damp.

Secure the area where the dust will be generated. Tape plastic over all openings, including doors leading into and out of the area. Tape plastic over heating supply and return air ducts. Do not carry debris through the house. Safely discard debris out a window if at all possible.

When dust generating activities are outside, close all windows and doors so that dust will not be carried indoors. Clean up dust as soon as possible to avoid tracking it indoors. Rinse areas with water if possible.

Use tools that have vacuum attachments whenever possible. Change filters regularly.

Consider setting up a 'negative' ventilation system to suck the dust out of the work area. This is an effective method when using a high CFM fan and proper cross ventilating techniques. This type of dust control system is somewhat easy to setup. Seal off the work area. Install the fan at an exterior door or window and seal the remainder of the opening with cardboard. At the opposite end of the work area, provide an opening through which fresh air can enter the work area. When you turn the fan on, it creates a draft across the work space. This air movement generally takes much of the airborne dust and exhausts it through the fan. If you employ such a method, be sure that the dust is not drawn back into the house. Pay attention to wind direction.

For additional reading, consult with your local library. Look for books concerning "Dust Control" and "Negative and Positive Ventilation Techniques".

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