Plumbing System Vent – Simple But Vital

Posted on August 15, 2005 by Tim Carter

I don't believe the average person realizes the dynamics of the plumbing drainage system in their home. After all, the water flows out of the sink and disappears. As long as this happens each time, who really cares what is going on?

But I have come to believe that knowledge is power. The more you know the better you are equipped to handle problems. This holds true with many things in residential construction, including plumbing drain and vent systems.

Sanitation is the Goal

If you study the history of plumbing, or visit a third world country, you quickly begin to appreciate the advancements of modern plumbing. Turn the clocks or calendars back just 125 years ago and you discover that plumbers were treated with as much respect and reverence as doctors. The medical profession connected the dots after the Civil War and learned that the spread of many common diseases was linked to poor sanitation.

Doctors discovered that bacteria in plumbing systems could easily spread in a household if waste and contaminated water was not disposed of properly. A simple open pipe in a sink proved to be inferior. It allowed vermin as well as noxious fumes to enter the house through the pipe. It didn't take long for the simple plumbing trap to be invented. The water seal in the trap stopped small vermin and blocked fumes from entering the living space.

Before long, plumbers learned what happens when water flows down a pipe. They discovered that the water that flows into a pipe displaces and removes air from the pipe. They learned that flowing water can actually create a powerful vacuum. Vacuums are a bad thing in plumbing systems as they can remove water from traps. Shortly thereafter, plumbers determined that pipes must be connected to the system that allows air from the atmosphere to enter the piping system. This air stopped vacuums and helped to improve sanitation within a home.

Venting Tips

Plumbing vent pipes are not much different than the drainage pipes. They typically are smaller than the drainage pipes for several reasons. First, they are designed to transport air. Air can be compressed and the quantity of air traveling in a vent pipe can be increased by simply boosting its velocity. Since water drains through a vent system by gravity, you generally can't increase its velocity. But a powerful vacuum within a drainage system that is created by a large volume of water can increase the velocity of the air entering the vent pipes.

It is not uncommon for all of the drainage pipes in your house to eventually join together and leave the house through a single pipe. Venting systems can be designed to do the same thing in reverse. I have plumbed many a house that had over ten fixtures that were served by a single 3 inch vent pipe that poked through the roof.

Awesome Books

If you want to learn more about plumbing vent systems, you should get a few books on the subject. One of my favorites is a book titled Plumbing a House written by Peter Hemp. Peter has included some wonderful 3D diagrams and superb diagrams of all sorts of drain and vent combinations. This book is worth three times the purchase price.

Keep in mind that you must always follow the plumbing code. It is in place to protect you and your family. Be sure to read up on the subject and practice working with pipe materials before you started plumbing in earnest.

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Hot Water Recirculating System

Posted on August 15, 2005 by Tim Carter

Steaming hot water as soon as you turn on a shower valve is a great feeling on a cold morning. The same is true at your kitchen sink or any other plumbing fixture. As our lives become more fast paced, we don't want to wait for anything. Instant gratification is unfortunately becoming the norm.

The installation of a hot water recirculating loop system will allow you to have hot water at your fixtures. Those people who have their heaters below the piping system get the recirculating work done for free Those who live in slab houses or who have hot water lines below the heater must use inexpensive in-line recirculating pumps. The point is that you do not have to wait for hot water.

New Construction vs. Existing

If you are building a new home or rehabilitating one, now is the time to put in a recirculating loop! You will have no trouble installing the return loop lines and insulating all of the necessary pipes.

If your house is an existing two story house, it can be tough to get a return loop pipe up close to the second floor or higher bathrooms.

It is also virtually impossible to properly insulate all of the hot water supply pipes.

Existing ranch style houses that have a great majority of the plumbing pipes exposed in the basement are the best candidates for retrofitting. These houses allow you to insulate all but just a few feet of hot water supply lines. They also permit you to install a return loop close to each hot water fixture.

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Retro-Fit Recirculating Pump Comparison

Posted on August 15, 2005 by Tim Carter

Retro-fit Recirculating Pump Manufacturers and Tips
Sean Dougherty, an individual who works for The MWW Group, a public relations firm, was kind enough to develop this cool comparison of retrofit hot water recirculating pumps:

www.metlund.com Metlund's product, the D'MAND, requires the pump and valve to operate together under the sink, which creates a secondary requirement for electricity under the sink where there is not usually an outlet. In addition, it requires the user to activate it to call for water - in residential applications this will typically be a pushbutton. Therefore, the system saves the water and energy but doesn't provide instant hot water. At Grundfos, we don't spend a lot of time talking about cost savings with this product because we recognize that with water costs strictly regulated, the dollars returned from the water savings are modest. We do stress the comfort (hence the name) because that is the main sales feature of this type of product

www.lainginc.com/instant.htm Laing's Autocirc product uses a similar concept to the Grundfos Comfort Instant Hot Water System but without the timer - creating a recirculation loop using existing hot and cold water pipes. Instead of using the thermally activated valve, Laing's pump turns on automatically whenever the hot water supply line water cools and replaces that water with hot water. Of course, this 24-hour operation means more electricity use and more heat constantly in the pipes. Absent excellent insulation, this will drive up cost of operation. In addition, the pump is positioned under the sink, not in the boiler room, increasing the odds that electrical work will be necessary in addition to the plumbing.

www.grundfos.com Here is the one. It is Tim Carter, me talking now. The water circulation system that eliminates cold water runoff at the faucet, using a bypass valve and pump with a timer to control water flow. (You can find the nearest distributor at the Grundfos USA web site.) No return line is needed. The bypass valve has a thermostat that senses when hot water has reached the farthest plumbing fixture. The timer on the pump allows you to control when hot water is at the fixtures you need it to be at and when! This is the real deal. I highly urge you to give the Grundfos Comfort Series Pump a serious look.

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Soldering Water Valves

Posted on August 14, 2005 by Tim Carter

Hi Tim,

Do I leave the valves open or closed when you solder them in the line?

David Griebel

- - -

Hi Dave,

It depends upon the type of valve! If you are soldering a traditional valve that has a rubber or plastic washer, then you open it. It you are soldering a ball valve, you keep it closed.

Once the solder is set, you should try to slowly cool the valve body to stop the heat transfer towards the actual washer and ball.

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Septic Tank Maintenance

Posted on August 12, 2005 by Tim Carter

Septic Tank Maintenance

Your septic system can last over 200 years if sized correctly and maintained on a regular basis. This number was determined by experts at Colorado State University. Here are some important points that will help you get 200 years or more from your septic system.

Do not pour any harmful chemicals, toxic substances, anti-bacterial soap, solvents, etc. into your septic system. These things simply kill the bacteria!

Don't send ANY solid articles into the septic tank that will displace water! This means cat litter, sanitary napkins, cigarette filters, sand, lots of dirt, etc.

Minimize or eliminate the introduction of cooking grease or oils that go down your drains. Pour these into a glass jar and dispose of with your normal trash.

Space out your water usage. Do different tasks on different days. Introduction of vast amounts of water into the septic tank moves the solid waste particles into the drainfield pre-maturely!

Keep a good stand of vegetation over the drainfield. The roots of the plants help to aerate the soil.

Never compact the soil on top of the drain field.

Pipe all surface water and roof downspout water away from the drainfield. Flooded drainfields can lead to massive pollution problems.

Absolutely have your system inspected by a qualified septic service company. Watch how they measure for sludge.

Keep accurate records of your septic service. Note the length of time between service intervals and how much sludge was removed from the tank.

If you know where your septic tank and drain field lies, map it! Keep this drawing in a safe place and use it as a tool to keep your drainfield in tip-top shape. The map will allow you to keep heavy trucks, downspout drainage, etc. away from your drainfield.

Author's Note: We've received other questions with similar problems or questions. Here's one from Howard Stein of Oklahoma City, OK, regarding his home septic system.

"We have ten inches of snow and the temperature is near zero Fahrenheit. It will stay like this for several days. Is it safe to use our washing machine (doing regular laundry) in this frigid weather since we have a septic tank and fear that the "arms" cannot properly dispose of large volumes of water into the ground? Many thanks for your help."

Howard, typically in most septic systems, the tank and drainage fields are located well below the frost line.

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Garbage Disposal for Septic Tank Manufacturer

Posted on August 12, 2005 by Tim Carter

Septic Disposal Manufacturer

I know you are going to hate me, but at this point in time, there appears to be only one company that makes a garbage disposal specifically for septic systems. I surmise that engineers at other companies are already developing similar machines that will not violate the patent rights of the company that introduced this new and exciting product.

The septic disposal is made by In-Sink-Erator, Emerson Electric Co.. They are the world's leading disposal manufacturer - in fact, the founder of the company, John Hammes, developed the first garbage disposal in his basement in 1927 using a tin snips and soldering iron. He invested 10 years of his time refining the disposal concept and decided to formally launch the business in 1937. During his first year in business, he sold a total of 52 hand made disposals. That is a whopping 1 disposal per week! This story reminds me of how a giant oak tree begins from a tiny acorn!

I have been a licensed master plumber for nearly 10 years. Before that time and during the past ten years, I have installed hundreds of In-Sink-Erator regular disposals. They truly make a fine product. I have never had to perform a service call due to a defective motor, grinders, etc. The only problem I ever had was when a helper forgot to remove the drain inlet plug for the dishwasher drain tube. Of course, this was an operator error, not a problem with the actual disposal!

The new septic disposal comes with a powerful 1/2 Hp induction motor that rotates the grinding disc at 1,725 rpm. As with all In-Sink-Erator products, they simply twist into place on the easy-to-install sink strainer. The grind chamber is corrosion proof and the actual grinders are stainless steel.

The unique Bio-Charge cartridge that contains the beneficial bacteria snaps easily into place on the side of the disposal. Once in place, the disposal automatically injects the proper amount of enzymes with each load of food that is ground up. A refill bottle of Bio-Charge will retail for approximately $8.95. The disposal retails for $179 in most major markets in America. You should be able to find the disposal at all major home center stores and any plumbing supply house that carries In-Sink-Erator disposals.

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Safe Septic Tank Additives

Posted on August 12, 2005 by Tim Carter

Safe Septic Tank Additives

Tens of millions of people utilize septic systems to take care of sanitation needs on their property. It is no wonder that different additive companies target this market in an effort to push/sell products. Some of the additives are safe and cause no harm to the bacteria within the tank. Some additives destroy the bacteria.

The State of Washington took a leadership role regarding this topic. In 1993, the State Legislature found that "... most additives do not have a positive effect on the operation of on-site systems, and can contaminate groundwater aquifers, render septic drainfields dysfunctional, and result in costly repairs to homeowners ..." To make a long story short, the State of Washington's Department of Health started to study additives. They determined which ones were safe for septic systems with the intention of protecting consumers. Those additives that were approved are NOT warranted by the State of Washington to work. The approval simply means that the additive will not HARM the bacteria within the tank. For that reason alone, the results of their work are significant. At least you know the safe ones to buy. You then have to judge on your own if they work.

If you want the most updated list of additives that they deem to be safe, call, write or visit their web site:

Washington State Department of Health - Community Environmental Health Program
P. O. Box 47826
Olympia, Washington 98504-7826
www.doh.wa.gov

The most recently approved "safe" septic system additives, as of January, 2007, are as follows:

Aquaterra GHSD-1 and LS-1472
Aquaterra Biochemical Corporation
Bio Blast
Dr. Ricketts Nutritionals
Biocharge
In-sink-erator Division
Emerson Electric Company
Bi-Chem SM700
Novozymes Biologicals Inc.
Bio Choice ES
Osprey Biotechnics
Bio-Clean
Kinzie & Payne Biochemical Corporation
Bio-Green
Delta Bioproducts International
Bio Kleer S
Bio Aqua Enterprises Inc.

Bio-Jet-7
Jet Inc.
Bio-One
One Biotechnology
Bio Rooter Drain Maintainer
Western Drain Supply
Break-Thru Septic Tank & Cesspool Maintenance
Hercules Chemical Company
Break-thru Septic Tank & Cesspool Restorer
Hercules Chemical Company
Rid -X Septic System Treatment
Reckitt Benckiser Inc.
Drain Care-Septic Tank Treatment
Enforcer Products Inc.
Drain Out Enzyme Septic Treatment
Iron Out Inc.

Drain Care Liquid Septic Tank Treatment
Enforcer Products Inc.
Drano Plumbing System Buildup Remover
S C Johnson & Son Inc.
DWT 360 Septic Tank Maintainer / WT 360 Waste Degrader
Tri-Synergy Inc.
Eco-Save ES-700
Eco-Save Products
JWH Distributing
Enviro-Culture
Bio-Energy Systems
Inc.
Grease Tank Treatment
Roebic Laboratories Inc.
Greenpig Septic Tank Treatment
Greenpig
Inc.
GSI 4000
General Supply Inc.
HMS Septic Tank Maintenance
Greenpig
Inc.
Instant Power Septic Shock
Scotch Corp.
Instant Power Septic System Treatment
Scotch Corp.
Liquid Alive
Dymon Inc.
L.E.A.D. Enzyme Digestant
Formula Corp.
Liquid Live
Formula Corp.
Liquid Plumr Septic System Treatment
Clorox Co.
Microbe Lift
Ecological Laboratories
Microbe-Lift Septic Tank Powder Packets
Ecological Laboratories Inc.
Microbe-Lift/ST Septic Digestant
Ecological Laboratories Inc.
Plumb-Clean
Kinzie & Payne Biochemical Corp.
Pro-Pump Cold Weather Powdered Digestant
Ecological Laboratories Inc.
Pro-Pump Powdered Digestant for Septic Tank and Leachfields
Ecological Laboratories Inc.
Pro-pump Septic Digestant
Ecological Laboratories Inc.
Push
Betco Corporation
Rid-X Professional Septic System Treatment + Drain Maintainer
Reckitt Benckiser Inc.
Roebic K-37 Septic Tank Treatment
Roebic Laboratories Inc.
Roebic K-47
Roebic Laboratories Inc.
Roebic K-57
Roebic Laboratories Inc.
Roebic K-87 Soap Digester FMP Soap Degrader
Roebic Laboratories Inc.
Roebic K-97 Mainline Cleaner
Roebic Laboratories Inc.
Roebic Liquid Grease Degrader
Grease Trap Treatment
Roebic Laboratories Inc.
Roto-Rooter Septic & Cesspool System Treatment (Dry)
Changing Paradigms
Roto-Rooter Septic & Cesspool System Treatment (Liquid)
Changing Paradigms
Roto-Rooter Treatment for Septic Tanks and Cesspools
Roto-Rooter Corp.
Sea-Zyme Septic Tank Digester 2000
Century Products
Septic Helper 2000
Shar Lane Distributing Co.
Septic-Scrub Drainfield Flow Restorer
Arcan Enterprises, Inc.
Septic Tank Aids
Heartland Labs Division of A&V, Inc.
Septonic Septic Tank Additive
AHT Field & Co.
Shactivate Sewage Digester
Shar Environmental Products Inc.
Sludgehammer Blend
Pirana ABG Inc.
Super Pack Bacteria
Septiclear Inc.
Ultra Green 3 Enzyme Cleaner
Iron Out Inc.

Author's Note: We've received other questions with similar problems or questions. Here's one from Howard Stein of Oklahoma City, OK, regarding his home septic system.

Howard, typically in most septic systems, the tank and drainage fields are located well below the frost line.

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Steam Room Construction Tips

Posted on August 10, 2005 by Tim Carter

Steam Room Construction Tips

When I did the research for this column, I found it very interesting that the manufacturers, who make the steam generation units, offered no written or detailed construction tips for steam enclosures. In talking with them, they all said the same thing, "There is way too much liability and there are too many different contractors involved."

You see, there are several steps that are involved and if one of them is done wrong, you can have a moisture problem. I have built several steam enclosures that have withstood the test of time. Here is how I did it.

One Piece Barrier

The steam generation units create vast amounts of water vapor. This gas can get through grout, cement board, moisture resistant drywall, etc. with no problems. If it gets into a wall cavity and comes into contact with a cool surface, there is a great chance the water vapor will change into liquid water. If this happens, mildew, rot and fungus aren't far behind.

The solution to this problem is the installation of a high quality one piece vapor barrier on the entire inside surfaces of the steam enclosure. The floor of most of these rooms is either a tub, a fiberglass shower pan or possibly ceramic tile. Tubs and shower pans are impervious to water vapor and a ceramic tile floor will be as well, provided it has a CPE membrane like Cloraloy under the cement mud base.

In any event, you need to cut a giant piece of vapor barrier that will be able to cover the ceiling and all walls and be able to drape into the inside surface of the ceramic liner or the tub or shower pan. It is not unlike cutting a piece of wrapping paper to cover a birthday or holiday present. One piece of paper covers the box and you make the necessary folds to get it tight at the corners. The only difference is that you are wrapping the inside of the box.

The best vapor barriers to use are cross laminated virgin polyethylene vapor barriers. These products can't be found at home centers. You need to search and find Concrete Supplies. You should be able to find small companies that sell specialty concrete epoxies, finishing aids, and other products to commercial concrete installers. This is where you will find these awesome vapor barriers.

A Two Person Job

Installing the vapor barrier will be a two person job. Someone has to hold the vapor barrier tight to the ceiling while the other person begins to nail it. You must make certain that the barrier is centered and that you will have plenty of material to cover the ceiling and walls in one piece. Remember, it drapes inside the floor barrier or tub so that if water condenses on the barrier, it flows into the tub or floor pan and then into the drain.

Cover all Wall and Ceiling Surfaces with Tile

For a high performance steam shower, you want tile walls and ceilings. The glazed surface of the tile inhibits vapor penetration and allows the steam buildup to happen faster and be more intense. Other dense natural stone or man-made stone look-a-like products can perform well.

If you use tile or a natural stone surface, I recommend cement board as the substrate. The cement board will not deteriorate over time. Moisture proof drywall will fail eventually.

If you use tile for the ceiling and walls, absolutely make sure you apply the tile with thinset mortar, not organic adhesives. The thinset is basically cement and lime and will also stand the test of time.

If you use cultured marble, paint the cement board with a high grade 100 percent acrylic white primer. Allow it to dry for 3 days. Then use clear 100 percent silicone caulk to attach the cultured marble to the cement board. This will insure that you do not have colored shadows that show through the cultured marble.

Companion Articles: Steam Bath Unit Companies, Steam Bath Check Up, Steam Showers & Baths - Simply Soothing, Steam Room

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Steam Bath Unit Companies

Posted on August 10, 2005 by Tim Carter

Steam Generation Unit Companies

There are quite a few companies that make steam generation units. It is actually quite surprising to me in as much as you normally don't see many of these things in most houses. The units come in all sorts of shapes and sizes and design.

One of the things you should be looking at is the actual design. Here is what I would be interested in knowing:

How close does the unit need to be to the shower area?
Can the unit be installed in a nearby area so that if and when it needs to be serviced, it is easy to access the steam unit?
If you have hard water, how will mineral deposits be removed from the heating coils or plates?
How many steam heads are required for different sized shower areas? Will one head be enough for your shower or does it require two or more?
How long does it take for steam to begin to flow from the head once the unit has been turned on?

I am familiar with one of the manufacturers of the steam units. It is a low pressure steam system that has a unique back flush design feature. After each use, the Roma units back flush and clean out the tanks. The Roma units also feature stainless steel heating plates that will not corrode. I happen to be a big fan of stainless steel - especially when you are dealing with water and rust!

Here are the steam generation unit companies. Call them for literature and see what you think of these wonderful devices.

Accurate Industries
Almost Heaven
Amerec Products
Crane Plumbing
Jacuzzi
Kohler Co.
Pacific Sauna & Steam
Roma Steam Baths
Sauna Craft
Steamist

Companion Articles: Steam Room Construction Tips, Steam Bath Check Up, Steam Showers & Baths - Simply Soothing

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Steam Bath Check Up

Posted on August 10, 2005 by Tim Carter

Soothing steam ...... Can you feel it? Have you ever been in a steam room in a health club or gym? I can tell you that it is a wonderful experience, especially on a cold winter day. Of course, if you live in the Southern USA or in Cincinnati, Ohio during the summer of 1999, then you don't need a steam generation unit. Simply walk outside into the heat and humidity on a blazing summer's day! You get to sweat for free.

Critical Steps

I have gotten complaints from homeowners and readers who have said that their steam units don't work and are useless. When you start asking questions, you usually find out quickly that just one thing is wrong. Everything has to be just right for a steam unit to work properly. Here are some critical points you must do:

Have you purchased the right sized unit? Size is a function of the cubic foot area of the steam enclosure AND the wall surface material/construction.
There is no exposed drywall or plaster in the steam room area.
The door or opening from the shower area to the bathroom fits fairly tightly.
There is no open space above the door. In other words, when the door is closed, no air can escape from the steam enclosure.
The steam head has been placed the correct distance up from the floor.

These are just a few of the steps you must take to make sure a steam generation unit produces and maintains a luxurious amount of steam in your shower or steam room. It isn't hard to follow the steps, you just need to make sure all of them are indeed followed!

I always highly recommend that you get a copy of the written installation instructions before you have one of these installed. Don't assume that the plumber or the builder knows how they are installed! Not only that, each unit may have slightly different requirements.

Close is Better

The steam generation units can be placed a distance away from the steam room or shower area - often up to 20 feet, but the closer you keep it to the shower area, the better off you will be.

Plumbing Connections

Installing a steam generation unit is not really too tough. The fitting and piping requirements are fairly standard. You must pay attention to the types of materials that are suggested. When the manufacturer says to use a brass pipe nipple, DON'T use a galvanized iron one instead! Do exactly what you are told to do. It is very possible that you will need to get supplies from a real plumbing supply house, not a home center.

Read the Enclosed Papers

Just about every steam generation unit comes with trouble-shooting and maintenance instructions. Take a few minutes and read those. It can save you lots of time in the future. I like to save all paperwork for these items and store them near the unit. Use a zip-lock plastic freezer bag for storage purposes and tape or attach this bag to the wall near the steam generation unit. Do not tape the bag to the unit as it may interfere with ventilation, plumbing or electrical connections. Use common sense.

Hard Water

If you know you have hard water, you need to prepare yourself for periodic cleaning and maintenance. Mineral deposits will form on the inside of the unit and will cause problems if you don't clean the heating elements and other parts as required.

Keep in mind that white vinegar does an excellent job of dissolving these mineral deposits. It doesn't smell great but it really works. Thick deposits may require overnight soaking. In extreme cases you may have to soak items for days and change the vinegar solution every 12 hours or so. Simply follow recommendations provided by the manufacturer.

Be sure to use a timer with the units, especially if you have health problems! Check with your doctor before using one.

Companion Articles: Steam Room Construction Tips, Steam Bath Unit Companies, Steam Showers & Baths - Simply Soothing

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Steam Room Construction Tips

One Piece Barrier

A Two Person Job

Cover all Wall and Ceiling Surfaces with Tile

Expert Advice For Your Home