Repairing Carpenter Bee Damage

Repairing Carpenter Bee Damage

The holes that carpenter bees create are fairly easy to repair. You have numerous options. Fortunately the holes are almost always the same diameter. But, the bees can be highly destructive if they are related to the ones that have attacked my gutter boards. In several areas, I have visible channels or grooves that have been cut into the wood. The darn bees got too close to the surface and actually cut through.

Corks, Dowels, Latex Wood Filler & Caulk

Once you are fairly certain the bees are gone you can start to plug the holes. Hardware stores sell dowel rods that are usually 3 feet long and are different diameters. I am certain you can find a dowel rod that will fit fairly snugly into the holes. Once you match one up, you cut 3/4 inch long pieces that you will tap into the holes after you have coated them with wood glue. If you take your time, you will be able to tap the plug so it is perfectly flush and requires no sanding.

Another method that works well involves cork. Some hardware stores sell small diameter corks. You can tap these into the holes and because of their conical shape, they stay in place by their friction fit. The cork can be left flush with the surface of the wood or you can recess it slightly and fill the void with exterior spackling compound or latex wood filler.

Caulk is a product that can be used to repair holes, but I stay away from it. The holes that the bees produce are often 1/2 inch or so in diameter. When you caulk holes this large the caulk either shrinks and leaves a depression or it droops from the hole after you get down from the ladder. In either event it is an also-ran in my opinion.

I prefer to use wood dowel rods and/or latex wood filler. The latex wood filler products have minimal shrinkage, dry quickly and sand easily.

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Carpenter Bee Control

Carpenter Bees

Carpenter bees are really interesting insects. When I first saw them around my house I thought they were somewhat terrifying. The bees would come very close to my head and look at me. If I moved, they followed. They never attacked, but looked as if they might at any moment.

It turns out that these bees were male - the half of the species that has no stinger! If I would have know then what I know now, I would have swatted at those dudes in a heartbeat - at least while my wife was not around.

Beneficial Insect

My wife has taught me to respect all living insects and animals. It really makes sense as all living things are involved in creating a balance in the biosphere we call the planet Earth. Carpenter bees pollinate plants. This pollination is necessary to ensure the procreation of flowers, trees, etc. In other words, we need bees!

But, if bees start using your home as a nesting place you might get upset at the damage they do. I feel an alternative is to try to live with the critters in peace.

Options

One thing that my research showed is that the carpenter bees do not like to drill through painted wood. This may work for you. If you can simply live with painted exterior wood, do so. Apply a fresh coat of paint and see if that acts as a suitable repellent.

If you have a stained log home or don't want to paint, then you might want to try to lure them to a decoy piece of wood or small structure. Think bird houses. We go to the trouble to build separate structures for birds, why not do the same for the bees instead of killing them?

I can tell you from experience that the carpenter bees at my home simply love soft redwood. Perhaps you can attach some decorative pieces of redwood or cedar at different parts of the house that the bees might find. They seem to really prefer shaded areas at my house.

You might try building a small structure like a Purple Martin bird house. Make it out of redwood, cedar, cypress, fir or pine. Create some nice roof overhangs for the bees to drill into. I know this sounds crazy, but the structure might just become a neat neighborhood conversation piece.

The Life Cycle

The bees you are seeing right now are adults that are drilling and creating new nests. They will soon lay eggs. The young bees hatch in the late summer, emerge from the nests, and fly around getting familiar with the neighborhood. As winter approaches the new adults re-enter the nest and hang out there during the winter months. The following spring they emerge from the nests and start the entire process all over again.

The month of June is an excellent time to treat the holes and galleries with insecticidal dust. The adults that are drilling now are still creating nests and starting to stock them with food for the young.

The dust you puff into the holes and nests will possibly kill both the current adults and any young that hatch from eggs that the females might have already laid.

Plan for Next Year

Keep in mind the thoughts about my suggestion for a non-violent approach. In other words, think about creating a home for carpenter bees. We need them. If everybody killed all of the carpenter bees, we would cause a disruption in the biosphere. It just makes common sense.

If you do build a bee house, send me a photo!

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Termite Control & Elimination Systems

Termite Control & Elimination Systems

Nothing strikes fear into homeowners like the word termites. Why? Because most people have visions of their house being devoured before their eyes. They see walls crashing down and total destruction. It usually is never that bad. However, if not detected early, termites can easily cause thousands of dollars worth of damage to a house. It takes a lot of time to replace floor joists, wall studs, and wood siding that has been munched on for years.

The fear is also based upon the fact that termites work silently and with great stealth. They know how to disguise their activity and to stay hidden within the wood framework. They loathe daylight just like vampires. Because of this, they travel to and from their nests in mud tunnels or within the wood itself. This makes it tough for us to see them. Generally you don't know they are in your house until you go to paint a piece of wood work and find out that the paint film is all that is there - the wood behind is paper thin or non-existent! You may also discover termite activity if you look in your basement storage areas. It is not uncommon for them to attack cardboard boxes or any other paper product you have in contact with masonry surfaces.

Prevention & Elimination

In April of 1995. the war against termites took a major turn. Up until that time termites were not seriously in danger of losing the war. All attacks made against them were defensive in nature. In other words we were using powerful chemicals to create defensive barriers around structures we wanted to protect. The chemicals did little to actually kill the termite populations. The attacking termites were repelled by the barrier chemicals and simply foraged for food in another location.

Within the past 15 years scientists have discovered how toxic and long-lasting some of these chemicals were. Chlordane was a very popular barrier chemical in widespread use prior to 1987 or so. This chemical was virtually unaffected by water. It would stay in soil for long periods of time. Water would not breakdown the chlordane but would transport it to other locations and into the food chain where it would cause harm to things other than termites. For this reason it was banned from widespread use by the EPA about 10 years ago.

Lower powered chemicals like Dursban took its place. Dursban works like the older more powerful chemicals, however it breaks down. So, if you have had your house treated with the weaker chemicals, you will eventually have to re-treat.

Mounting an Offensive

Two years ago, we humans began a campaign to kill off entire colonies of termites. This major offensive had only one participant at that time. We now have 3 major chemical companies that are marketing total colony elimination systems.

These new termite control measures go after termites by stopping the source of food being delivered to the colony. Scientists have discovered that only the worker termites are responsible for providing food for all of the colony members. If you kill the workers who visit your house, you can then effectively kill the colony.

 


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Since this battle is now only two years old, it is too early to tell if we will win the war. However, the outlook is promising. Up until this time, we did not possess an effective weapon to kill vast numbers of termites. Now we do. It is a simple matter of perfecting the delivery and intensity of the poison.

Counterattack Options

There is a third termite weapon in our arsenal. It is a time tested group of chemicals called borates. These are relatively safe chemicals for humans but are quite deadly when used against termites.

Borates can be sprayed on lumber in new construction or on existing in-place lumber. In New Zealand, you have to use borate treated lumber when building a new home. They have had great success with this preventative measure since the mid-1950's.

If you are currently framing a new house, it would be in your best interest to explore spraying all of the lumber that is near the soil line or in contact with masonry surfaces with at least two coats of the borate chemicals. This is a potential DIY project. All that you must do is make sure you have the proper concentration and that the wood surfaces do not get wet after the chemicals are applied.

Termite elimination is not guaranteed in any respect. If you currently have a problem or anticipate one, I suggest that you investigate all of the control methods. Do not necessarily rely on just one system to solve your problem. You will have to monitor for future infestation. If you think that the termites will be easily conquered, you are dreaming. Our war with termites will rage well into the next century. Be prepared to fight them!

Author's Note: We've received other emails with similar problems or questions. Here's one from Aaron S. of Los Angeles, CA, regarding termite fumigation.

"My house was fumigated for termites covered with a tent etc. After removing the tent two days later, we entered our house but there was no odor of gas at all.  A while later, we saw insects, spiders, roaches etc. moving around. The fumigation company claims that they mix a substance with the gas so that it will not have an odor. My question: Shouldn't there be a gas odor and dead insects? We can't see the termites inside the wall, but we feel that if all the insects are still alive, probably the termites are not dead either. Please, let us hear you opinion. Thank you very much!"

Doing a little online checking, the chemical used during termite fumigation is targeting only termites. It will not kill spiders, ants, bed bugs or cockroaches. So Aaron, you may still see other insects moving around.

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Manufacturers of Termite Control Systems

Manufacturers of Termite Control Systems

Your biggest problem may be finding an authorized pest control company that can use the system on your house. Only one company at this time allows you to install the system yourself - that being Spectracide. Their product was introduced in the spring of 1998. The other systems must be professionally installed and monitored. Call the companies below. At the time of this offering, several were offering free videos and other nifty information! When you call, you will be given the name(s) of local pest control companies.

  • FirstLine & FirstLineGT
    FMC Corp.
    800-321-1FMC
    These are two different systems. FirstLine is an above ground termite control system. A bait box is installed adjacent to an active termite mud tube. The worker termites eat a stomach poison. This chemical does not allow the termite to derive energy from the wood it eats. As such it can die within one to three weeks.FirstLine GT is a below ground bait station system. It is very new. The manufacturer states that a maximum of 14 stations can be put at any one residential house. They "must be placed in close proximity to actively foraging termites....." That makes sense, however, how does one know where active foraging is going on under-ground?
  • Sentricon
    Dow AgroSciences - 800-678-2388
    Sentricon was the first termite baiting system. This system employs a chemical called hexaflumuron - a growth regulator. This chemical prohibits the termite from molting or growing a new outer skin. Without a new skin, the termite basically "bursts" as it tries to grow. Death can occur within one to two months after ingestion.Pest control people install stations at 10 to 20 feet intervals around your house or anywhere where termite activity is suspected. The stations contain simple pieces of tasty wood. Once a station receives "hits" or activity, the wood is replaced with the poison bait. The stations need to be monitored on a regular basis to see if termite activity is being suppressed.
  • Subterfuge
    American Cyanamid Corp.
    800-545-9525
    Subterfuge is a fast acting no-nonsense poison. Worker termites who eat it simply die within several weeks. This system is installed in the soil from the get-go. The poison is not an attractant. You and the Pest control people "hope" the foraging termites will find it. However, once found it is very tasty. Tests have shown that the poison is actually desired by the termites! They want to eat it more than wood.
  • Terminate
    Spectracide
    888-545-5837
    Terminate is the only system that is sold directly to homeowners.

 


Are you one of the manufacturers listed above? Do you want your company name to be a link to your website? Click here.


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Borate Products for Termite Control

Borate Products for Termite Control

Boron is a basic chemical element. This element is found in fruits, vegetables, body care products and some cleaning compounds. It just so happens that it doesn't harm humans in small quantities. However, termites hate boron. Once ingested by termites, the boron interferes with their ability to extract energy from the food (your wood!) that they eat. So, if you coat the wood in your house with boron or chemicals (borates) that contain large amounts of boron, you can repel them from your house.

Boric acid, borax and a chemical called disodium octaborate (DOT) contain lots of boron. These chemicals readily dissolve in water and can be applied with common hand pump spray devices. The fact that the boron dissolves easily in water is its only weakness. If you apply borates to wood that you know will remain dry for long periods of time, termites will be repelled. However, if the wood can get wet, the borates will be leached from the wood and your house will be vulnerable to attack.


Termite infestation? Pick the best exterminator using my Termite and Carpenter Ant Checklist. I offer a 100% Money Back Guarantee.


The following companies will gladly supply you with information regarding how to purchase chemicals from their local distributors and how to apply these termite repellents. You get an extra benefit: Not only do the borates repel termites, but they do a great job against carpenter ants and beetles.

  • Nisus Corporation
    215 Dunavent Drive
    Rockford, Tennessee 37853
    800-264-0870
    They make Bora-care, Niban Granular Bait and Jecta Diffusible Boracide.
  • Perma-Chink Systems, Inc.
    1605 Prosser Road
    Knoxville, Tennessee 37914
    800-548-3554
    They make Shellguard Guardian.
  • Sashco
    10300 E. 107th Place
    Brighton, Colorado 80601
    800-767-5656
    They make Penetreat Impel Rods.
  • U.S. Borax
    26877 Tourney Road
    Valencia, California 91355
    800-984-6267
    They make Tim-bor Insecticide.

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Do Termite Bait Systems Work?

Do Termite Bait Systems Work?

Remember, conventional barrier chemical systems do little if anything to kill off the colony. They simply put up a "force field" around your house. Worker termites are repelled by these chemicals and can die if they ingest the poison.

The new bait systems are really too new to know if they will completely kill off termite colonies entirely. The insect scientists are in disagreement. Some say that the colonies are fragmented and intermingle with other colonies. If this is so, then a particular colony may have a constant but smaller food supply from other workers who are not hitting the bait stations.

Other problems revolve around the poisons themselves. It is thought that the termites might smarten up and realize they are being poisoned. They have been know to communicate with other workers and pass the word about tainted food. If this happens, there is a possibility that the workers may bypass the bait/poison stations.

The speed of kill is another issue. The new baiting systems can take between 6 and 12 months to see a significant drop or stop to termite activity within your home. If you have anxiety about this length of time, you may want to combine the bait system with borate or traditional chemicals. This will cost you more money, but you will get quick, long lasting results.


Termite infestation? Pick the best exterminator using my Termite and Carpenter Ant Checklist. I offer a 100% Money Back Guarantee.


The bottom line is that early field results from the Sentricon system are very encouraging. Termite colonies are being killed off. Some termites are more resistant than others, but that is to be expected. Rest assured that the chemical companies will work long and hard to constantly improve the systems. There simply is too much money at stake!

Author's Note: We've received other emails with similar problems or questions. Here's one from Aaron S. of Los Angeles, CA, regarding termite fumigation.

"My house was fumigated for termites covered with a tent etc. After removing the tent two days later, we entered our house but there was no odor of gas at all.  A while later, we saw insects, spiders, roaches etc. moving around. The fumigation company claims that they mix a substance with the gas so that it will not have an odor. My question: Shouldn't there be a gas odor and dead insects? We can't see the termites inside the wall, but we feel that if all the insects are still alive, probably the termites are not dead either. Please, let us hear you opinion. Thank you very much!"

Doing a little online checking, the chemical used during termite fumigation is targeting only termites. It will not kill spiders, ants, bed bugs or cockroaches. So Aaron, you may still see other insects moving around.

Column B176

Carpenter Ants Control

For the past three years, I have been waging a battle with carpenter ants. Just about this time each year, the devils wake up from their winter hibernation with an insatiable appetite. They head straight for my kitchen. They know exactly where the garbage can is located. You would think there is a flashing neon sign on the exterior of my house that says "Eat at Tim's."

My 3-year-old daughter Kelly has become an excellent defender. She will readily attack the ants and step on them with her bare feet. The only problem is they keep coming in wave after wave, especially under the cover of darkness.

Different Divisions

Carpenter ants belong to the biological genus Camponotus. There are quite a few species that live in various parts of the USA. They can be found in well hidden beach heads in Florida and the Gulf Coast or in mountainous terrain as high as 9,000 feet above sea level.

These insects are one of the largest ants found in the USA. An average size worker ant is usually 1/4 inch long. Mature queens, the head of the colony, can be as large as 3/4 inch in length. Most species are predominantly black in color. However, it is not at all unusual for you to see ones that have yellow, brown, or red coloration as well. All of the ants have pinched waists.


Carpenter ant infestation? Pick the best exterminator using my Termite and Carpenter Ant Checklist. I offer a 100% Money Back Guarantee.


There are a minimum of 9 different species (divisions) that are heavily entrenched throughout the countryside. The ones found in colder climates hunker down (hibernate) for the winter. Those located in warmer climates can and do continue offensive operations throughout the year.

Threat - Perceived or Real?

Carpenter ants pose a real threat to us. Although they do not eat and digest wood like termites, they do "bite" or excavate it as they enlarge their nest sites. Nests can be found in a variety of locations: logs, living trees, firewood, dead tree roots, stumps, any interior or exterior house lumber (framing, siding, doors & trim), etc.

The sites are usually started in wood that is decayed, wet, or rotten. However, once they have started a nest, it is not uncommon for them to attack perfectly dry and sound wood. In the wild, the ants are very beneficial. Their wood excavation work helps to create topsoil. They also protect trees by eating insects that would otherwise defoliate healthy trees. They are only a pest when we invade or or come close to their territory.

Carpenter Ant Camps

The typical carpenter ant colony is a very structured environment. It is ruled by a queen who does nothing but lay eggs.

Each spring special male and female reproductive ants emerge from all existing nests simultaneously. These winged reproductives mate. The male reproductive ants die soon after mating, as they are weak. The female ants who were fertilized look for new colony sites.

Once a fertilized female finds a nest location, she enters and seals off the door. She is now the queen of the new colony. She lays the first eggs of the new colony. These eggs hatch and out pop the first workers of the new colony. They immediately get to work gathering food for the queen. In addition, they start to enlarge the nesting location for future generations.

Super House Cleaners

Carpenter ant workers are unbelievable house keepers. As they excavate the nest, they keep these passageways (galleries) immaculately clean. In fact, the excavated galleries are perfectly smooth, as if sanded. This, in essence, is how they derived their name, carpenter.

The worker ants carry the dirt, debris, and wood shavings out of the nest. This wood debris is sometimes evidence of their activity. You may see wood dust in a room, basement, or attic area. If so, it may be a sign that you have got a problem. However, it is possible to have a nest in your house and not see any wood particles. The ants may deposit these bits of wood and debris in an interior hollow spot such as a wall cavity, soffit, or some other hidden location.

Spread Out!

Carpenter ants don't always live in just one camp. These ingenious insects often develop satellite nesting locations that are connected by a trail network to the parent colony. The ants from one nest may bivouac at another nesting location for several days. The ants communicate with one another as to food source locations.

Their survival instinct is strong. In an effort to mask their feeding and foraging, they conduct most of this important activity under the cover of darkness. Just after sunset, ants emerge from the hidden nest locations in an effort to get food. Often they end up at my house. I intend to win the war. I wish you luck!

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Rid of Carpenter Ants

Carpenter Ants Inspection & Chemical Control Methods

Indoor Inspection Procedures

The first place to look for carpenter ants are locations where you might expect to find moisture. Wood in contact with damp foundations, timber near bathrooms, kitchens, or plumbing stacks, crawl spaces, are the first place I would inspect.

Look for wood dust piles. Remember, the ants clean house every day and sometimes dump it outside of the nest.

Inspect cracks or small holes you find in wood. These may be the entry locations to a nest. The ants carve "windows" (small holes) between galleries in the wood to connect passageways. These windows are sometimes cut into an outside wood face as a dumping site for wood scraps.

Check hollow doors/walls by tapping. If a nest is present in a hollow door or wall cavity, the ants will become agitated and make a lot of rustling noise. You can hear this activity if you put your ear to the door or wall.

Check spider webs. Winged swarmers may become trapped in a web. Look often before the spider has the ant for dinner!

Inspect trouble areas at night! Ants are most active at night. Turn out the lights and wait for them to appear. Use a flashlight or quickly illuminate an area and watch them scatter!


Carpenter ant infestation? Pick the best exterminator using my Termite and Carpenter Ant Checklist. I offer a 100% Money Back Guarantee.


Outdoor Inspection Procedures

Look for damaged or rotten wood. Any damp wood such as fence posts, log piles, firewood, screened porch trim, porch posts, etc. are likely nest locations.

Inspect and remove branches / bushes / limbs that touch the house. Ants use these "bridges" to get onto and into your house. Do not allow any landscaping materials to touch your house.

Look in the lawn for established trails. Ants will often create distinct trails between the parent and satellite colonies. Watch for ant troop movements along these trails.

Inspect old stump areas for ant hills. Look for the telltale dirt hills indicating an underground nest. The ants will invade old tree roots to make a fine nest.

Chemical Control Methods

There are several off the shelf insecticides that are effective in controlling carpenter ants. Licensed pesticide applicators have an even greater chemical arsenal at their disposal.

The key to total elimination is finding the parent colony with the egg laying queen. Once this is accomplished you can treat this nest, if it is outdoors, with Diazinon crystals. Dusting chemicals such as Ficam (bendiocarb) 1% and 99% Boric acid dust work well indoors in hollow spots and cavities. The dust gets on the bodies of the ants. They spread it to other members of the colony. Dust works best when dry. If it becomes wet, the ants can't get it on their bodies too well.

Outdoors the Diazinon crystals work well on the ant trails or as a perimeter barrier. In other words, create a Diazinon "minefield" that the ants must cross in getting to your house. An 18 inch wide strip of poisoned soil at the edge of your foundation should do the trick. They will get the chemical on them and eventually succumb. It is also possible that they will take it back to the nest to poison the queen and other workers.

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Ants Carpenter

Carpenter Ants Literature

The literature is bursting with references, stories, articles, etc. concerning carpenter ants. Some excellent information is available from:

  • National Pest Control Association
    8100 Oak Street
    Dunn Loring, Virginia 22027
    800-678-6722 (NPCA)

This association will most likely refer you to a local exterminator. Ask if they have any free literature that will help you with your pest problems.

Give them a call and ask for any and all pertinent information regarding carpenter ants and their control.

If you like visiting libraries, especially ones that have a decent periodical (magazine) collection, then you will be amazed at what you will find. Several magazines have had excellent feature articles on carpenter ants. If your library is like mine, it very well may have these back issues on microfilm or on a computer disk. Both would allow you to print out a specific article in a flash! The magazines are:

  • American Entomologist
  • Pest Management
  • Pest Control
  • Pest Control Technology

Carpenter Ant infestation? Pick the best exterminator using my Termite and Carpenter Ant Checklist. I offer a 100% Money Back Guarantee.


The Winter 1995 issue of American Entomologist had a great article. Check out the May 1991 issue of Pest Management as well.

Finally, contact:

  • Washington State University
    Cooperative Extension Service
    College of Agriculture and Home Economics
    Pullman, Washington 99164

Search their web site for Extension Bulletin 0818. (http://cru.cahe.wsu.edu/CEPublications/eb0818/eb0818.pdf)

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Termite Colony Elimination Systems vs. Barrier Chemicals

The Chemical Barrier

Termite control in the past took advantage of the worker termites' need to return to the nest for water. Chemical barriers were used to surround the food source so that when the termites left the nest for another feeding, they would run into the chemicals.

This would work, as long as every possible pathway into or around your home was blocked. The other problem with this method is that only the worker termites who came into contact with the poisoned soil would die. The remainder of the colony would not get poisoned. The other worker termites would become aware of the poison and then rely on the other food sources (wood pile,tree roots, etc.) to make up for losing your house as a food source.

However, poisoning the soil had other consequences. The chemical poisons, especially those used more than 10 years ago, were extremely effective. In fact, the EPA found them to be too effective. Some of the chemicals simply wouldn't break down. They would pass through the soil into water supplies and then contaminate areas no where near the termite colonies.

People who used well water were at risk, as the chemicals could migrate into drinking water supplies.

Other wildlife, which was beneficial was indiscriminately killed. All in all, the chemicals, when used in unskilled or untrained hands could be highly dangerous.


Termite infestation? Pick the best exterminator using my Termite and Carpenter Ant Checklist. I offer a 100% Money Back Guarantee.


Total Colony Elimination

Several years ago, a very close friend of mine decided to play an adult game of capture the flag. There were 20 adults on a side and we used eggs as ammunition. I was the leader of the Rebel forces. My plan was simple. Attack and eliminate the Imperial Force command post. It was the heart of their operation. It worked.

Dow AgroSciences, a company which has been waging the war against termites for years, decided that it was going to adopt a similar strategy. They developed a termite control system called Sentricon.

This system is designed to take advantage of another weakness of the worker termites. When termites get back to the colony to share food, they compare travel stories with their other worker friends. My guess is that it goes something like this:

Hey Fred, I just got back from the Jones house. Man, do they have some tasty 2x4's! I also got a salad of drywall paper there too. You should check it out.

Fred responds: I'll do just that, but first I'm going over to the Yablonski playset. Can you believe that those nuts built the playset and didn't use treated lumber? The only thing missing on the playset is a neon sign saying Termites Welcome - Apply Within.

Well, knowing this is their modus operandi (MO), Dow AgroSciences developed a very tasty slow acting poison that is incorporated into feeding stations around your home. Here is how it works.

Plastic monitoring stations containing wood are installed at various locations around your house.These stations are checked regularly for termite infestation. When termites are found in one or more of the stations, the wood inside the station is switched with a look alike substitute.

The substitute is actually a tasty poison which the termites eat. They tell other workers about this new food. Well, within several weeks, the workers begin to get sick. The phone begins to ring in termite headquarters, as many workers call into work sick.

Then the sick workers begin to die. As you might imagine, this has a major impact on the rest of the colony, since food is not being brought back to the other termites. Within six months, the entire colony is eliminated.

This system is a huge advancement for termite control. It is environmentally friendly, as the soil is not poisoned. Give it serious consideration for your home.

Author's Note: We've received other emails with similar problems or questions. Here's one from Aaron S. of Los Angeles, CA, regarding termite fumigation.

"My house was fumigated for termites covered with a tent etc. After removing the tent two days later, we entered our house but there was no odor of gas at all.  A while later, we saw insects, spiders, roaches etc. moving around. The fumigation company claims that they mix a substance with the gas so that it will not have an odor. My question: Shouldn't there be a gas odor and dead insects? We can't see the termites inside the wall, but we feel that if all the insects are still alive, probably the termites are not dead either. Please, let us hear you opinion. Thank you very much!"

Doing a little online checking, the chemical used during termite fumigation is targeting only termites. It will not kill spiders, ants, bed bugs or cockroaches. So Aaron, you may still see other insects moving around.

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