Gravity and frost heaving can take its toll on fence posts. I often see fence lines that have developed a noticeable tilt. All too often an ambitious homeowner will try to push against the post to straighten it. The result is usually a cracked off fence post!

The simple way to straighten a fence line or post is to dig the dirt away from the tilted side of the post. With this dirt out of the way, you will immediately be able to straighten the post with no resistance. The dirt that was removed will immediately be used to fill the new cavity on the other side of the post.

The most common failure of older picket fences seems to be the horizontal rails that support the pickets. If you have to replace a rotted rail, it is major fence surgery. You will have to disassemble the wood pickets to replace just one rail! If you do this, replace the other rail at the same time, unless you are positive it is in excellent condition.

The rot in these rails can be slowed considerably by pretreating fence materials before they are built. This is covered in detail within the remainder of this bulletin. If you choose to use a clear or semi-transparent wood sealer for your fence, be SURE you use a synthetic wood sealant.

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Wood Picket Fences

There are countless designs for wood picket fences. You can visit your local bookstore and jump on their in-store computer that houses Books in Print. I'll bet you come up with no less than 15 - 20 books on fences, designs, materials, etc. Just before writing this bulletin, I jumped on the Web and I came up with thousands of references to fences. Granted, some have nothing to do with wood picket fences, but I quickly found five sites that had photos of interesting designs!

Creating a material list for a picket fence is not that hard. You need to first decide upon your design and quite possibly build a one panel prototype or maybe a small scale model to see if you like the design. That is what I did.

Often you will buy certain materials in longer and wider quantities to create components. For example, I used 6 foot long fence posts. It makes sense to buy a 12 foot long post and cut it in half rather than buy 8 footers and waste 2 feet!

The same is true for the pickets. In my instance, I purchased 8 foot long pieces of 1x6 rough sawn cedar. Using my table saw and miter box saw, I was able to get six pickets per board. I had some very nice small kindling wood left over as well.

Here is a material list to construct an 8 foot long fence section at my house. Remember, each successive fence section requires exactly the same amount of material except you use one less 6 foot post. This list also leaves you with four extra pickets (you need only 38 pickets) for your next section. So, if you build a long fence like mine, you will need to keep this in mind as you could end up buying too many 1x6's or 4x4's!

Material List

You simply need the following materials:

• One 4x4 x 12 feet CCA. This is cut in half to make two 6 foot posts
• Two 2x4 x 8 feet CCA. These are the top and bottom fence rails
• Seven 1x6 x 8 Rough Cedar. This will generate 42 pickets that measure 1.5 inches wide by 48 inches long

I priced out this package just before writing this column. The cost for the above materials is $58.77 plus tax here in Cincinnati. To construct a fence 48 feet long, you would spend just about $325.00 including tax. That isn't that bad, especially when you consider that you can build the fence with minimal skills!

Your neighbors will probably like you as did mine. In fact, we thought they would hate looking at their side of the fence. It turns out that they feel my wife and I are looking at the bad side!

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Comments from the peanut gallery are common with many of my columns. I am proud to say that many of these letters, emails or calls are positive. Sometimes, people tell me I forgot something. That was the case with this fencing column. I received an email a day or so after the column appeared in one of the first papers to run the column. The woman was quick to point out that I didn't tell people to call their local utility companies before installing a fence. It turns out that a neighbor of hers single-handedly cut off the area's cable TV and phone service while digging a fence post near the street! Erika, touche! Excellent point!

Details

Erika's email message made another point as well. Even building a simple fence requires pre-planning, thought and attention to detail. I'm sure that homeowner didn't even think that underground cables would be near his fence location. It has happened to me. The strangest things are buried in the weirdest places!

Detailing is also very important with picket fences. Anybody can install square top cut posts and square pickets. That requires no thought or planning. But, if you take some time and research different styles, types, and patterns, you can create without too much work an elegant fence - one that will be the talk of the neighborhood. Your friends and neighbors will be envious. I know this for a fact.

Scale and Style

A picket fence needs to match the style and scale of a house. Contemporary houses can benefit from fencing that recreates the lines and materials used in the house. Colonial style housing looks great with the standard white picket fence. A Victorian house may require ornamentation on the posts and gingerbread within the fence. Be sure that the fence you choose to build will enhance your house, not detract from it or lessen its value.

I can assure you that if you spend some time at your library looking at architecture books for different periods of building, you will see exactly what I am talking about. There are numerous books at my own library that illustrate fences and architecture styles.

Local Fence Companies

You never want to re-invent the wheel. That is a waste of time. I suggest that you also visit your local fence building companies. You will probably see some illustrated pamphlets that will help your creative juices begin to flow.

The fence supplier may also have some great construction tips, supplies, and precut materials.

Fence Post Spacing

What is a good distance between fence posts? Well, there is no perfect answer. For picket fences, I would never exceed a 10 foot spacing between posts. A 6 foot spacing is the absolute minimum that I would place posts - unless of course you had to stair step fencing or posts down a very steep hill.

Picket Sizing

I have seen wood picket fences with pickets as wide as 5.5 inches. Mine is the narrowest I have ever seen, that being a 1.5 inch width for each picket. Your overall design will determine what is best for you. In all cases, I would try to make sure that the pickets can be cut from a larger piece of wood with minimal waste.

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Make Sure It Is Straight

The first thing you need to do is decide where you are going to build your fence. Straight fence lines are easy to work with, however, curves and angles are not all that hard to accomplish.

If your fence will be on or near a property line, I urge you to get that line surveyed. Check with your local zoning and building department. Zoning and building codes can absolutely contain language that restricts fencing - even decorative picket fences. The codes even tell you who gets to look at the "good" side of the fence! These codes can even restrict shrubbery! That is the case in my own village.

Hilly Terrain

If your land is hilly, always install the fence posts plumb. If the ground is very steep, you will have to stair-step your pickets or allow the individual pickets to follow the contour of the ground.

Post Hole Depth

I like to bury fence posts at least 2 feet into the ground. I never surround my fence posts with concrete. I just tightly tamp dirt or crushed gravel back around each post. Concrete makes it tough to remove the fence post at a later date. Plus, if you use a square fence post, the concrete almost always develops shrinkage cracks after it dries. The post can then rattle within the concrete. I dig my posts as I build the fence. It is a mistake to dig your holes first. If you make an error in your measurements - especially with a long fence, many of your post holes may be off!

Gate Posts

If you intend to have a gate within your fence row, then place those posts at least 32 inches deep. Gate posts that carry the weight of a swinging gate must be surrounded with 6 inches of concrete on all sides of the post. You should also run a diagonal rail from the top (or near the top) of the gate post to the bottom of the nearest fence post. This will help keep the gate post from tipping over from the weight of the gate.

Pre-Cut All Components if Possible

If you decide to trim or shape the top of your posts and pickets, you should do this before you build the fence. An exception to this might be the original concave design fence my wife Kathy first saw. The pickets on that fence I would cut out after I installed longer than necessary pickets. I would then have traced the curved pattern on the pickets and cut them in place on the fence with a saber or sawzall. The pickets you see on my fence were all cut before they were installed. Not only did I cut the arrow tip before installation, I also cut each picket to length to make the curved shape. I accomplished that process by using a piece of plywood as a form. I created the arch shape with a thin piece of 1/4 inch thick lattice. That shape was traced by pencil onto the top of the plywood.

Since the space between my posts was exactly 8 feet, I was able to place 38 one and 1/2 inch wide pickets one inch apart. I drew this exactly on the plywood. All of my precut arrow point pickets were 4 feet long. I placed each picket in the spot it belonged on the plywood. Since the tip of each picket was touching the arched line, some pickets hung out over the plywood. I snapped a chalk line across the bottom of the pickets where each one hung over. I then cut these off with a saw. BINGO! The bottoms of the pickets were now equal and the tops had the perfect curve. All I did next was to nail them in place on the rails in the proper sequence. As long as the bottom of the pickets was flush with the bottom rail of the fence, the curve on top would be perfect.

Fencing Fasteners and Fence Rails

The bare minimum you should use is hot double dipped galvanized nails. If you want ultra long term performance, then purchase stainless steel nails. You will have to hand nail your horizontal rails into your posts. I like to predrill these holes in the rails so that you don't split them as you nail.

Remember, the pickets will add substantial weight to the fence. If you decide to build a fence that someone might sit on, then you need to use steel brackets to support the rails or take the time to mortise them into the fence post. Mortising is dangerous to do unless you make the mortises extra deep. If you make tight mortises, you will not be able to get an old rail out or a new one in! If the mortises are deep, you can cut the rails so that there is enough room to slide them in and out, much like a split rail fence.

If you have access to a pneumatic nailer, you might want to use it for the pickets. It is faster and the rails will not bounce like it does when you hand nail pickets. You can buy fairly decent galvanized nails for pneumatic nailers.

Paint / Stain or Sealers

No matter what you intend to do with your fence, you want to pretreat as much of the lumber as possible. Since my fence was made using two different species of wood, I actually built the framework (CCA treated pine posts and horizontal rails) first and let that sit for nine months. This allowed the treated lumber to dry out. I then painted the framework before applying any pickets. The pickets had already been pre-painted before I cut them to length as described above. After cutting them, I painted the bottom that would be at or near the soil level.

If you don't treat all the surfaces before you build you fence, you can have premature finish failure. Fences are exposed to the worst weather. Water will soak between pieces of wood where they touch one another. If these surfaces are not sealed or painted, water will begin to attack the wood and the finish. It takes an extra day or so to pre-paint the wood, but it will add years and years of extra life to the first paint / sealer job as well as all following coatings!

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Chain link fencing is not the subject at most cocktail parties to be sure! But if you are looking for a durable fence that can withstand enormous amounts of abuse, this is the material to go with. If you don't believe me, simply visit a local playground or school yard. Invariably you will see chain link fencing that has been tortured by the local youngster population.

Get the Right Stuff

If you were a dishonest person, chain link sales might be attractive to you. I can just see a sleazy salesperson talking with customers and showing them the lightweight chain link and the thin wall fence posts. When you hold and touch samples, they seem substantial. But once installed the chain link fence doesn't seem like it will hold up for long.

The fencing you see at city playgrounds is industrial strength so to speak. You may not want it, but there are grades in between the lightweight material and the heavy duty material. If you are lucky, the fence dealer may have small test sections set up that allow you to do side by side comparisons of the actual full size fence or chain link panels. This is the only way I could make an informed decision. If your dealer doesn't have full size panels, then ask for addresses of places where different fences have been installed. Go touch and feel the different fence gauges and fabrics on a short road trip.

Doing it Yourself?

Are you thinking of installing a chain link fence yourself? If so, you need to get a very handy pamphlet from the Chain Link Fence Manufacturers Institute (www.chainlinkinfo.org). Go to their web site and find Eight Steps to Chain-Link Fence Installation. It's available for free download in PDF format.

Here are some key points you will find in the DIY pamphlet:

1. Get a survey done! Are you thinking of installing the fence right up against the property line? Think again! What about the fence post holes? You can't dig on your neighbor's property! Plan to keep the fence a minimum of 4 inches on your property. Six inches might even be better.

2. Set all terminal posts first. These posts are the ones that turn corners or make grade transitions. Once these are set you can then calculate even distances between terminals for your regular line posts. The pamphlet has a handy table that gives you the distances for even spacing.

3. Install line posts. If your lot is level or slopes evenly in the same plane, then you simply string a line between terminal posts. If the ground between the terminal posts rises and falls slightly then the line posts must stick up the same distance from the top of the ground. This will allow the top of the fence to be parallel with the ground. This always looks best.

4. Be sure the concrete around the posts is not too wet and that the concrete is humped with the highest point being at the posts. You want rain water to flow off the concrete, not puddle there!

5. Install all of the fittings on the posts.

6. Install the top rails. This is easy!

7. Install the fabric and stretch it.

I have made it sound easier than it really is, but the pamphlet fills in with some very good detailed tips. Like anything else, you simply need to take your time!

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Quality Chain Link Fence Checklist

The following list is courtesy of the Chain Link Fence Manufacturers Institute (www.chainlinkinfo.org). As you might imagine, they want their products installed correctly. They want you to be satisfied with your new chain link fence.

The satisfaction process starts with buying the right fence in the first place. Always be sure you upgrade to thicker posts and stiffer chain link fabric. The samples may seem strong, but the finished product can be flimsy. Here are things that you should check before, during and after the fence is being installed:

1. Have the fence lines been properly marked?
2. Do the fence lines extend beyond the property lines? The fence should be 4 to 6 inches inside the lines.
3. Have all zoning regulations and restrictive covenants been satisfied?
4. Does the contractor have a valid permit that allows the fence to be constructed?
5. Have all underground utilities been marked?
6. If utilities are close to any fence posts, what will be done to protect underground lines?
7. What is the diameter of the fence post holes?
8. Will the holes be a uniform width from top to bottom? V shaped holes that are smaller at the bottom than at the top can heave in cold winter weather.
9. Are the post holes as deep as the contract states they will be?
10. Do the fence posts extend down into the holes as far as the contract states they will extend?
11. How far apart are the fence posts? Do they exceed the distance set forth in the contract or specifications.
12. Are the posts spaced equally?
13. Are the fence posts the same height? Fences should follow the contour of the ground. They should only be level if the ground is level.
14. Is the chain fabric the type and size that was specified?
15. Is the fabric stretched tightly?
16. Does the fence look crisp? Is it straight and true?
17. Do the gates operate smoothly?
18. Has all construction debris and extra soil been removed from the jobsite?
19. Has the contractor provided you with a notarized affidavit stating that all labor and materials are paid up to date?
20. Are you satisfied completely, have all questions been answered, AND most importantly, do you have a copy of the WRITTEN warranty from the fence manufacturer and the installer?

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Reading Pays Off

If you are thinking of doing some fence building on your own, one or more of these books may save you lots of time and money. Most of them have great illustrations and clear instructions. There are other fence books out there as well. Read several to obtain multiple viewpoints. No one person has all of the correct answers!

Books on Fencing

There are some spectacular books on the subject of fencing. Some are simply idea and technique books, while others are detailed do-it-yourself books that take you through the entire process. I was unable to find a book devoted entirely to chain link fencing. Some of the books had chapters on it, though. I did find some great books, listed below, that you can click on at the bottom of this page and order.

Fences and Gates by Sunset Books

Master the basics of building fences and gates. Step-by-step illustrations guide you every step of the way from planning to building, maintenance to repair.

Tricks of the trade help you achieve professional results. You'll find out: How to plot a curve...How to mix your own concrete...How to use a water level...How to brace a gate. Color photos provide examples of different styles and materials available. "Toolkits" tell you exactly what tools you'll need for each job.

Sunset editors demonstrate the latest tools, techniques, and materials to make your work easier and safer, and show how to save time and money on your next home improvement job.

Fences and Retaining Walls by William C. McElroy

Everything you need to know to run a profitable business in fence and retaining wall contracting. Takes you through layout and design, construction techniques for wood, masonry, and chain link fences, gates and entries, including finishing and electrical details. How to build retaining and rock walls. How to get your business off to the right start, keep the books, and estimate accurately.

A Portfolio of Fence and Gate Ideas By Cy Decosse

This book has some interesting ideas! Model a fence from this book and you will be the talk of the neighborhood!

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