Deck Construction - Redwood Decks & CCA Lumber

How many books do you think have been written concerning deck construction? It's got to be over 100 or so. And I'm going to try to do it here in this simple pamphlet? We better get to work!

Plans - The Key to Success

If you start your project without a set of plans - even simple ones - you are crazy! A plan enables you to determine a tight material list. In addition, you can see if the deck is going to work! Making paper cut outs of scale sized furniture allows you to see if the deck will accommodate everything you wish to do. Take the time to do a plan.

Building the Frame

I always started my projects by attaching the band board to the house. There are numerous ways to do this. One thing is for sure. Try not to put it directly against the house! Why not invest in 5 1/2 inch washers to be used at each through bolt location. This will hold the band board about 3/8 inch away from the house. This space allows for free drainage of water. This is really important if your house is wood.

Lining Up Joists

The joists on our deck are going to project away from the house. The band board we are attaching will support these joists by using metal joist hangers.

Building a deck? Make the best decisions with my helpful and thorough Deck Installation & Repair Checklist. I offer a 100% Money Back Guarantee.

The band board at the house is a board that runs perpendicular to the joists in the same plane. It needs to be through bolted to the house so it does not pull away. Using lag bolts and/or large nails to attach a band board to a house is forbidden on my jobs!

If the joists inside your house run the same direction of the deck joists, we have to stop and do some planning. It would be ideal if you could align your deck joists to merely be extensions of the inside house joists. Why you ask? This helps us extend utilities into the deck if necessary and it makes it infinitely easier to attach the through bolts and subsequent joist hangers. In other words, we want the through bolts that hold the band board to be in the middle of the joists. If you goof this up you will have a devil of a time attaching the joist hangers. The spacing will be goofed up as a joist hanger might end up right on top of a bolt! Let's layout the joist locations on the band board before we go any further. It will then make sense.

Layout is Easy as Can Be

OK, your band board is 12 feet long. Hey, you better check that...they are usually a little long from the factory. Not only that, the end cuts are not always square! You better check each end for square and trim off what is necessary to make 12 feet!

Lay the band board on the ground. The first floor joist is going to be flush with the end of the band board. Hook your tape on the left end of the band board. Make a mark at 15 and 1/4 inches. Then make an X to the right of the mark. Tap a nail in at the mark. Hook your tape on the nail. Now mark at 16, 32, 48, 64, 80, 96, and 112 inches. Be sure to put an X to the right of each of these marks. The marks represent the left side of each joist as you face the band board. Use a framing square to mark both sides of each joist (Don't you wish I had a video? ....I know, I know....). The last joist goes at the end of the band board. Now you see where the bolts go! Right smack in the middle of the joists, if possible. Just make sure this is going to work out with respect to the existing house joists.

Drilling the Band Board

Before you go any further, mark somewhere on the band board what the 'top' is. I don't want this thing to get reversed. The through bolt holes go between joists # 1 & 2, 3 & 4, 5 & 6, 7 & 8, and 9 & 10. It is best to stager the holes as well with respect to height. In other words, measure down 1 and 1/2 inches from the top of the band board for the first one. Then measure up from the bottom the same for the second. Alternate until you get to the end. Go ahead and drill a 1/2 inch diameter hole if you are certain that the holes will not interfere with anything in the house! If they do, make the necessary adjustments. Lets talk about band board height location. It is often goofed up!I like to have my final deck surface end up 2 inches below the finish floor level of the house. This provides a decent snow ledge for most climates. It also allows for positive rain water removal. If you make the mistake of trying to get the deck to be flush with the underside of an exterior door, you are making a huge mistake. You will have a leak into your house, trust me!

If you think that a 2 inch surface difference between the deck and the house will work for you, make a mark 3 inches below the finish floor and chalk a level line. Why 3 inches? Hey, don't forget, we have to add back an inch of decking tomorrow!

Now, let's check one last thing. Are the bolt holes going to be too low on the band board? Will they hit the top plate that sits on top of the foundation? Will they hit the foundation? If so, you must adjust them upwards. Once you are certain, drill the holes in the band board, drill the house, and attach the band board. Don't forget the washers and fill the hole with silicone caulk to stop water penetration. Put the bolts in, tighten the nuts inside the basement and come back outside so we can take a quick break.

The Box

The band board is just about the toughest part. Now we are going to build the outline of the deck. Take two joist hangers. Flatten the left side of one and the right side of the other. Why? Because the flattened part nails to the end of the band board, silly! We are going to put on the first and last joist now. Put the joist hanger on making sure you do not pinch it too tight or else the joist can't slide into place. Drop the joist into each hanger. Nail it in, and have someone hold the end so it doesn't drop. Hey, did you remember to square each end and make sure it was 9 feet 9 inches long? I knew you would remember! Take a scrap 2x4 and nail it to the side of the joist to support it in a level fashion. Do the same with the other end joist.

Now, take the other 12 foot 2x6 and square up each end, and cut it to exactly 12 feet. Drill three holes at each end in 3/4 inch from the edge. This is so you will not split the end when you nail it to the ends of the first and last joist. Nail this board to the end of the first and last joist. If you did everything right, you now have the outline of the deck. The deck should be reasonably level and measure 10 feet by 12 feet. You've got a box.

Squaring It Up

Now it is time to square the deck. This is necessary if you want the decking to work out nicely. Square simply means that each corner is a 90 degree angle. Your deck will be square when the two diagonal measurements are equal. I did the math for you. Your diagonals will (should) be 15 feet 7 and 7/16ths inches. Once the diagonal measurements are the same, nail a board from the center of the house band board to the out to the farthest point you can reach of either side joist. This will stabilize the box and keep it square.

The Posts and Beam

With the deck square, you can now locate where you want the beam and posts. I always like to cantilever the deck joists about 2 feet past the beam. It always seems to look better. Your beam can also cantilever slightly past the post in each direction as well, say one foot. String a line from each end joist where you intend to put your beam. Locate the post location and start to dig your 16 inch diameter foundation piers. These concrete pads should be at or below frost level. Pour 6 inches of concrete in the hole and level it. Let dry, install your posts per the drawing on page 3 making sure the beam is level and the joists that pass over the beam are level. Check the deck again at this time to make sure it is still square. If so,fill around the posts with rounded gravel. Cap the top of the hole with another 6 inches of concrete.

The Joists, Decking & Rails

It is time for the easy part. Simply fill in the rest of the joists. Do the center one first. Make sure you cut it to the correct length. Do not create a bow in the outer band board! String it or look down it to make sure it is straight. Cut and place the rest of the joists.

Install the deck boards starting at the end of the deck. Work towards the house. Stagger your joints so that they look random. The outfall from the last cut can almost always be used to start the next row. If you use CCA lumber, space the boards tightly. They will shrink! If you use redwood, use a paint stick for spacing purposes.

The rail is easy, especially if you purchased precut pickets. Install the corner pickets and the one at the house. Then put in your railing. Fill in the pickets aligning them with the rail. If you put in your pickets first, they will never be flush!

Had enough? Imagine what I would have to do on a complicated deck? It was always challenging, but rewarding. That is a fact!

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Building Ground Level Decks

Countless decking boards and joists have felt the wrath of my framing hammer. I have no idea how many decks I have built in the past 23 years - possibly 150 or more. Some were simple, some were very complex. Perhaps my favorite was a narrow deck that had beautiful 6x6 redwood railing posts. There was a long stairwell that dropped down to an octagonal landing. From that landing there were three different stairs that pointed you in different directions. Let your imagination wander. With decks and lumber it is easy to create your visions.

Ground Level Grade Beams

One of the more recent decks I built employed these concrete deck support beams. Grade beams take more time to install than a regular wood beam. However, once installed, they are unsurpassed in their strength and support. The key to long-term stability lies in pouring the grade beam and the support piers at the same time. This is a breeze as the grade beam form simply spans over the pier holes and continues on to the next pier.

I feel the easiest way to install grade beams at the correct height is to actually build the outer frame of the deck first. Get this structure square and level and you now know exactly where the bottom of your floor joists will be! Be careful, don't forget that the grade beam height needs to be 1.5 inches below the bottom of your deck joists. This space will be made up with the treated 2x6 sill plate that gets bolted to the grade beam.

Building a deck? Make the best decisions with my helpful and thorough Deck Installation & Repair Checklist. I offer a 100% Money Back Guarantee.

Prevention of Costly Mistakes

When I perform an autopsy on a deck gone bad, the most common cause of death is poor planning. People seem to be fooled by large open spaces. A 12 by 15 foot open space seems huge. Too bad that it will barely fit a four foot diameter round table and just a couple of chairs!

The easiest method of planning a deck is actually placing the deck furniture on the lawn exactly where you think the deck will be. Space the furniture comfortably. Be sure you sit at a table or chair and see if there is enough room to get by. Is your grill going to be on the deck? If so, roll it in place. Once all the furniture is in place, stretch a string around the edges of the furniture to create the outer boundary of the deck. Take your measurements and draw the scale plan. Yes, I know your neighbors will think you are crazy. But you will get the last laugh!

Rust is Real

During the past seven years I have become the biggest fan of stainless steel nails and screws. I have revisited many of the decks I built and have witnessed the onslaught of rust on the decking nails. Wonderful galvanized nails I thought were maintenance-free have failed.

Stainless steel is the only way to go. It may cost you an additional $50 for the average deck. It is a small price to pay for no rust! Stainless fasteners are readily available. Many real lumber yards handle them. The big box home centers have them as well. If you decide to use nails, make sure they are ring shanked. These shanks resist pullout.

New & Improved Screws!*

The problem with screws in the past was pilot holes. It was not uncommon for a screw to snap as it was drawn tightly through decking lumber. This is a hassle. A company called Design House developed a unique decking screw. It has two wonderful features. There is a knurled portion of the screw shaft just above the threads. This portion spins while the screw is driven. It actually bores a slightly larger hole for the unthreaded portion of the screw shaft. This reduces friction so that snapping screws is a thing of the past.

The other feature are small cutting edges under the screw head. These cutting edges help to create the recessed area necessary to allow the screw head to remain flush with the decking. I used them on a deck recently. They were a pleasure to work with.

(*UPDATE: In 2000, Design House went bankrupt. I have been unable to find these special screws. Perhaps another manufacturer will realize their value!)

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Stainless Steel Fastener Manufacturers

Here is a list of some stainless steel screw manufacturers.

Stainless fasteners are often sold by the piece. Try to calculate the number of decking nails or screws you need so that you do not buy too many. Nails are often just sold by the pound. It is hard to compare the two!

• Manasquan Premium Fasteners
• McFeely's Square Drive Screws
• Swan Secure Products

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15 Tips on Building a Deck

Building a deck is hard work. There is often lots of digging. Concrete has to be mixed and hauled. Heavy treated lumber needs to be carried to the deck site. Anything that can be done to limit aggravation and mistakes will surely make the job go smoother. Here are 15 tips that I have learned from firsthand deck building experience. I hope they help you save time and money.

• Deck Layout - The Easy Way
  • Don't waste time trying to stake out the pier locations for your deck. You will make a mistake! Here is the easy way. Simply construct the outer frame only and suspend it in the air with temporary legs. This allows you to square up the frame perfectly. With the ledger board securely fastened to the house, the two joists and the outer band board can move sideways. If you have a perfect square or rectangle, squaring the frame is simple. Once the two diagonals measure the same distance, the frame is square. Nail a long 2x4 from the side joists to the ledger and band board to hold the frame in place. You can now drop plumb bobs from your corners to the ground. This allows you to position your piers perfectly.
• Digging Post Holes and Grade Beams
  • Using the right tools makes this a breeze. I use a post hole digger that has sharp cutting edges. Don't be afraid of filing these edges. Cutting roots becomes a snap. You will need a hand trowel too. Post or pier holes need to be wider at the bottom than the top. Most DIYrs do just the opposite. Frost can heave a tapered pier right out of the ground. When piers are wider at the bottom, the pier has to "lift" the surrounding frozen ground. That's tough to do.
  • Use a round point shovel for general purpose digging. A square point spade is the way I square up trenches to look like architect's drawings! A duck bill shovel cuts deeply for trench digging too. An iron spud bar with a pointed end will crack pesky rocks.

Building a deck? Make the best decisions with my helpful and thorough Deck Installation & Repair Checklist. I offer a 100% Money Back Guarantee.

• Add Steel as You Go
  • Don't waste time trying to figure out how to suspend steel rods in a form or trench before the pour. There is nothing wrong with filling the trench half way and then placing the steel on the concrete. As you add the remaining concrete, the steel is locked in place. That fancy suspension stuff is for the union rodbusters. They have the tools and materials to do this, not you!
• Ledger Boards Need Through Bolts
  • The board that is attached to your house is called a ledger board. It needs to be through-bolted to your house. Lag bolts can pull out over time. Plus, an aggressive helper can easily strip the threads in the wood by overtightening.
  • Be sure to stagger the holes for the ledger board AND make sure they are not in the way of your deck joists. You need to locate your interior joist bays if the house joists are running in the same direction as the deck joists. Ideally, you want your deck joists to be in the same line as the interior joists - assuming the interior joists are 16 inches on center. The point is simple - you want to make sure the through bolts do not get in the way of a deck joist or a joist hanger. The time spent laying this out will pay for itself. Be patient with this process!
• Joist Hangers Need the Right Nails
  • Did you know that you can't use roofing nails for joist hangers? Many DIYrs do. Roofing nails are not "structural" nails. The heads pop off easily when loaded and the shafts are too thin. Many joist hanger manufacturers make special hot dipped structural joist hanger nails. They are a must. There is nothing worse than removing nails after the building inspector turns you down.
• Large Decks Up in the Air Need Bracing
  • If your deck is up in the air - that is, anything over eight feet - you need to install diagonal braces from the beam that supports the joists and the posts that run to the ground. If you get lots of dancing people up on the deck, it can actually rack sideways and collapse if these bolted supports are not in place.
  • Long 2x4's nailed in an X pattern to the underside of the floor joists will also help stiffen the deck against racking.
• 4x4's Don't Get it as Posts For Me!
  • How are you going to support the beam on the posts out at the end of the deck? Are you going to nail them to the posts? No Way! Drill holes and install through bolts? That is better. The best way is to use 6x6 posts. You can then cut a ledge into the 6x6 for the beam to rest upon. The remaining portion of the 6x6 still extends to the top of the beam. This allows you to through-bolt the beam to the post. You can set the beam on top of the post as long as you use special structural connectors made for this purpose.
• Flashing the Ledger Board at the House
  • If your house has wood siding it might be a very good idea to install a flashing that laps over the ledger board and extends up behind the siding. This prevents water from getting behind the ledger board. This water can leak through the bolt holes and rot the siding and structural framing of the house. When you nail your final decking board up against the house, do not nail through the flashing! Just nail into the deck joists that project out from the ledger board. If you end up with a small strip, then install the strip as your second last decking board using a full sized piece against the house.
• Seal the Lumber Before Construction
  • If you are building a deck that is close to the ground - the bottom of the joists are 18 inches or less from the soil - then you should really seal the floor decking boards on all sides before they are installed. This will slow or minimize water vapor absorption on the underside of the lumber over time. This absorption coupled with the drying effect of the sun and wind on the top side of the deck is the leading cause of cupping. Decking that is cupped is simply unsightly. It also traps water and ice on the decking boards. This is dangerous and leads to accelerated deterioration.
• Keep the Outer Band Board Straight!
  • Once you start to install floor joists in your frame, it is easy to bow the band board. You can keep it straight with a string. The trick is to stretch a string tightly on the outside of the band board from corner to corner. Now install a small 1/2 or 3/4 inch block of wood under the string at each corner. As long as you maintain the outer surface of the band board the same distance from the string as you add joists, it will remain straight. I always like to install the middle joist first to get the center of the band board perfectly in line with the corners. I then split the newly created half sections with a joist. Once you do this, you can fill in the remainder however you like.
• Avoid Electroplated Galvanized Decking Nails
  • I used to think my shiny galvanized decking nails were the best. Wrong! They usually begin to rust within two years. Use either stainless steel nails or decking screws. At the very least, use hot dipped galvanized decking nails. Be sure you drill the nail holes at the ends of decking boards. Nailing that close without pilot holes will crack the decking.
• To Space or Not to Space Decking
  • If you are using pressure treated lumber for your decking, do not space it. A 3.5 inch wide piece of decking can shrink as much as 1/8 inch - sometimes 3/16 inch! Redwood is more dimensionally stable. You can space it with a 16 penny nail or lath strips. Some cedar decking will shrink. Ask your lumber supplier if the cedar is kiln or air dried. Air dried cedar will shrink. Don't space air dried cedar!
• Railing Posts - How to Attach
  • Railing posts must be very secure. They absolutely must be bolted in two locations along side deck joists. Sometimes deck posts can extend continuously above the beam to become a railing post. I will often cut down the 6x6 post to a 4x4 above the beam for this specific purpose.
• Stairways To and From Decks
  • Stair building is an art. It requires lots of thought and layout. A beautiful deck can be blemished by a poorly constructed stair or one that is not balanced. I feel the most comfortable steps are those with 10 inch treads and 7.5 inch risers. This means that you need to plan your landings and deck heights. Multi-level decks must be built at some multiple of 7.5 inches from one another.
  • Landing areas from driveways or sidewalks need to be this same multiple if at all possible from the finished surface of the decking. Don't make the mistake of measuring straight down from the deck for your stairs! You need to measure from where the stairs will end out from the deck. Get an approximate height measurement and figure out how many treads you will have. Multiply this by 10 inches. Measure out your calculated distance and then see the difference from this point to the top of the deck.
• Plans - What Plans? - Did Someone Say Plans...?
  • I saved this one for last. I want you to remember this one! Be sure your deck plan is superb. Make scale cutouts of your furniture, grill, table, etc. Be sure the cutouts fit on the plan and you still have room to move around. Nothing could be worse than building a deck that is too small. Look at your living, dining or family room for help. See how the table works in the dining room? See how much room you need for chairs sliding in and out? If it doesn't work on paper, it will never work in reality - unless you shrink the furniture!

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Decks are big business. I mean BIG business. I have built many, many decks in my career, but never gave it much thought as to how people became disenchanted with the periodic maintenance. Not only that, some areas of the country (South and Southwest) have harsh weather conditions that are brutal for wood and wood sealants. It only makes sense that someone would try to produce an alternative decking material that requires no maintenance.

Plastic Decking

The plastic decking industry started in 1989. It was an offshoot of the plastic or vinyl fencing industry. Pure or virgin vinyl decking materials were the first alternative decking materials available. They were very attractive to boat dock builders.

The recycling movement really got going about six years ago. All of the plastic milk bottles had to go somewhere, so companies began to explore using this plastic to make decking materials. The recycled material was also combined with wood fibers and by-products to create hybrid decking materials. So now you have all sorts of products out there to confuse you!

Some Facts

Not all alternative decking materials are created equal. In fact, they aren't even close. There is no comparison to virgin vinyl (PVC) products and the decking materials that contain recycled plastic. Virgin vinyl products will typically give you better performance, colorfastness and overall quality. You will also pay for this.

Recycled products can contain impurities. Many of the decking materials that contain recycled materials change color over time. Some of the manufacturers actually suggest that you can stain or colorize their products. This is counter-productive in my opinion. I would think your decision to buy a plastic decking material would be to wash your hands of future maintenance. If you colorize or seal a plastic decking product, you have started your journey once again in the vicious maintenance circle. Don't fall into this trap. You will regret it to be sure.

Limited Colors

Plastic decking materials only come in several colors. Keep this in mind when you select one. The virgin vinyl products can actually be somewhat of a shock once installed. Two years ago, I was at the National Association of Home Builders convention in Houston, Texas. I visited a model home on a tour. It had a white vinyl deck. It was a sunny day in January and I had to get off the deck because the glare from the sun was so intense.

Granted, I was not wearing sun glasses, but I don't feel that sunglasses should be mandatory when you sit out on a deck. If it bothered my eyes, what might it do to an infant's eyes - one who can't wear sunglasses? I am not saying I am against white vinyl decking - I just want you to know what happened to me.

You can get virgin vinyl decking in shades of tan and gray if white is too harsh for you. I suggest that you visit an existing deck in broad daylight - sunshine - to see how it looks.

Non-Structural

Some of the alternative decking materials are not as strong as wood. In other words, they deflect more when loaded. This may mean that the floor joist spacing may have to be adjusted (closer spacing) so that the flooring doesn't feel spongy. Be sure to look for these recommendations in the literature before you buy. Adding floor joists will cost you more money. It can also be a nightmare if you build the deck first and then decide to use an alternative material.

Long-term Care

Many of the alternative decking materials have no real track record. Some have been around for less than five years. The virgin vinyl products are by far the most predictable. We know that high quality PVC products resist cracking, rot, color fade, etc.

Keep all of this in mind as you look at alternative decking materials. Just because something is new or untested doesn't mean it isn't the best. There have been plenty of products out there that eventually prove they were the best when introduced. Make sure that you consider all factors when selecting your decking material. Think long-term.

Traditional Wood

You have decided to do a wood deck because the alternative materials don't appeal to you. Well, I can tell you that you should care for your deck at a minimum every three years. If you live in the South or Southwest, you will be working on your wood deck every two years.

The best wood decks are those that are put together with stainless steel fasteners. They are also the ones where the decking is sealed BEFORE it is installed.

Synthetic Deck Sealers

What a popular material - synthetic deck sealers. Each spring I write about this topic and get inundated with mail. I know why - traditional deck sealants simply don't last. The primary reason for premature finish failure is two part: many deck sealants contain natural oils that are food for mildew and algae - the mildewcides and fungicides added to these products are water soluble! This means that after a short period of time rainwater and snow melt will wash away any protection. Your deck then becomes a feeding ground.

Synthetic wood sealers contain no food for mildew and algae. I have only been able to find one deck sealant that is a pure synthetic sealant. It is called Defy. It is made by Saver Systems.

NOTE FROM TIM CARTER - Founder of AsktheBuilder.com - posted October, 2016: I no longer would apply Defy deck sealer to any exterior wood that I own at my own home.

Related Articles: Vinyl Decking vs. Sealing Decks, Synthetic Decking Manufacturers, Decking Materials - Synthetic

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Synthetic Decking Manufacturers

Check out all of the manufacturers listed below. Be sure to pay attention to warranties and material makeup (virgin vinyl vs. recycled content).

I also urge you to keep in mind the railing, post and staircase options. If you go with a synthetic decking material, how will the deck look if you have a treated lumber staircase leading down to or from it? It is just a thought since you want your decking materials to be consistent in appearance.

• Fiber Composites, LLC- WeatherBest
• Royal Crown Ltd.- Brock Decking
• Certainteed Corp.
• DEC-K-ING
  Get this - they make a glue down PVC membrane that you put over plywood. You better get this one installed right or you WILL have problems!
• DecTec
  
• U.S. Plastic Lumber - Durawood
  This product is solid recycled plastic milk bottles and such. They also make another product that is a combination of recycled plastic and sawdust.
• Heritage Vinyl Products
• Renew Plastics - Perma-Poly
  Their product is made from recycled plastics.
• Plastival
  
• L. B. Plastics, Inc. - Sheerline
  They make PVC decking and railings.
• TimberTech
• Trex
  Trex is a blend of recycled milk bottles and old pallet lumber.
• Versadek Industries
• Epoch - EverGrain Decking
• A.E.R.T.
• Aurora Decking
• BB&S Treated Lumber
• Brite Mfg
• Carefree Xteriors Decking Systems
• Carney Timber Co.-Xtendex
• Correct Building Products
• Elk Composite Building Products
• EON Outdoor Living/CPI Plastics
• Forever Wood/ICA Global
• Genova Products
• Kadant Composites
• Kroy Building Products
• L.B. Plastics/Industrial Products Div.
• LP Weatherbest
• Mid Atlantic Vinyl Products
• Nebraska Plastics
• Nexwood Industries
• Presidio/Div. of Westech Building Products
• Railing Dynamics
• RENEW Plastics/Div. if N.E.W. Plastics Corpl.
• Royal Crown Ltd.
• Tamko Roofing Products
• Tendura
• Thermal Industries
• TimberTech Engineered Decking Systems
• Trex Co.
• Veka

Related Articles: Vinyl Decking vs. Sealing Decks, Synthetic Decking & Sealers, Decking Materials - Synthetic

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Vinyl Decking vs. Seal Wood Decking Costs

OK, so you are on the fence ... you are tempted to go with vinyl decking because you think that sealing a wood deck is too much work and hassle. Well, you might be right. Your decision depends on several factors. If you already know that you will not be doing the periodic maintenance - that is, you will hire someone to do it, then go buy the synthetic wood decking material right now. The labor costs to clean and seal a wood deck can be quite high. If you intend to do the work yourself, you want to keep reading!

Numbers - They Don't Lie

For our example, let's start with a simple rectangular wood deck that is a decent size - say 12 feet by 18 feet. The deck is level with no or minimal stairs leading to the ground.

If you buy standard treated lumber (5/4 by 6) CCA treated pine decking in Cincinnati right now (January 1999), it will cost you about $1.72 per square foot. I averaged the cost of the synthetic materials readily available in town. I selected Durawood, Trex and PermaPoly. The average cost for them was $3.43 per square foot.

Using these numbers, the vinyl or recycled materials cost $1.71 more per square foot than the wood. This means for our sample deck, we would have to spend a minimum of $391.52 (includes sales tax - 216 sq. ft X $1.71 X 1.06) to just buy the decking material. There is no doubt that the vinyl railing material and posts would add to this extra cost. Let's not include that for now.

If you go traditional wood, you should seal the deck as soon as it is built. If you purchase oxygen bleach cleaner and a gallon of the synthetic resin sealer, it will cost you $50 for the material to be shipped UPS to your doorstep.

We need to subtract the $50 from the $391.52 to make things equal. The balance (before adding the extra railing and post cost, mind you) is $341.52.

So, how long will it take you to spend $341.52 on cleaning and sealing your deck? Currently you will spend about $50 in materials every three years to clean and seal your deck. Without counting inflation, it would take just under 24 years to spend that money. Inflation actually doesn't factor in since you can keep the money, invest it or at least get some interest from a basic savings account.

Don't forget that you actually will spend MORE than $391.52 to get the vinyl or plastic decking. The railing systems, posts AND the labor to install the system will cost more than working with wood.

To get accurate cost numbers, get quotes for the same sized deck. All you have to do is make sure you calculate the actual cost of buying the cleaner and sealer to coat your sized deck. The entire calculation/analysis process should take you no more than five minutes.

Related Articles: Synthetic Decking & Sealers, Synthetic Decking Manufacturers, Decking Materials - Synthetic

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