Vinyl Decking vs. Sealing Decks

Posted on July 15, 2005 by Tim Carter

Vinyl Decking vs. Seal Wood Decking Costs

OK, so you are on the fence ... you are tempted to go with vinyl decking because you think that sealing a wood deck is too much work and hassle. Well, you might be right. Your decision depends on several factors. If you already know that you will not be doing the periodic maintenance - that is, you will hire someone to do it, then go buy the synthetic wood decking material right now. The labor costs to clean and seal a wood deck can be quite high. If you intend to do the work yourself, you want to keep reading!

Numbers - They Don't Lie

For our example, let's start with a simple rectangular wood deck that is a decent size - say 12 feet by 18 feet. The deck is level with no or minimal stairs leading to the ground.

If you buy standard treated lumber (5/4 by 6) CCA treated pine decking in Cincinnati right now (January 1999), it will cost you about $1.72 per square foot. I averaged the cost of the synthetic materials readily available in town. I selected Durawood, Trex and PermaPoly. The average cost for them was $3.43 per square foot.

Using these numbers, the vinyl or recycled materials cost $1.71 more per square foot than the wood. This means for our sample deck, we would have to spend a minimum of $391.52 (includes sales tax - 216 sq. ft X $1.71 X 1.06) to just buy the decking material. There is no doubt that the vinyl railing material and posts would add to this extra cost. Let's not include that for now.

If you go traditional wood, you should seal the deck as soon as it is built. If you purchase oxygen bleach cleaner and a gallon of the synthetic resin sealer, it will cost you $50 for the material to be shipped UPS to your doorstep.

We need to subtract the $50 from the $391.52 to make things equal. The balance (before adding the extra railing and post cost, mind you) is $341.52.

So, how long will it take you to spend $341.52 on cleaning and sealing your deck? Currently you will spend about $50 in materials every three years to clean and seal your deck. Without counting inflation, it would take just under 24 years to spend that money. Inflation actually doesn't factor in since you can keep the money, invest it or at least get some interest from a basic savings account.

Don't forget that you actually will spend MORE than $391.52 to get the vinyl or plastic decking. The railing systems, posts AND the labor to install the system will cost more than working with wood.

To get accurate cost numbers, get quotes for the same sized deck. All you have to do is make sure you calculate the actual cost of buying the cleaner and sealer to coat your sized deck. The entire calculation/analysis process should take you no more than five minutes.

Message from Tim:

Years ago while researching a column about cleaning decks, I discovered the wonders of Oxygen Bleach. It is perhaps the 'greenest' cleaner I know of as it uses oxygen ions to break apart stains, dirt and odor molecules. There are no harsh chemicals, and it works on just about anything that is water washable.

I decided to create my own special blend using ingredients made in the USA. In fact, the raw materials in the active ingredient are food-grade quality registered with the FDA. I call my product Stain Solver. I urge you to use it to help clean your deck surfaces. You will be amazed at the results!

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AsktheBuilder mp3 Radio Show July 9 2005

Posted on July 15, 2005 by Tim Carter

Summary: Tim opens the show begging for forgiveness about the failure to post photos of the garden shed. Caller questions include drip edge repair, combustion air intake, vapor retarders, and roof turbines. Tim also interviews Richard Kleiner of the Southern Pine Council.

Each title below is a direct link to a downloadable mp3 file. Just click the title if you want to listen. Right click if you want to download into your computer to save and play at a later date.

The Copyright to all radio segments is owned by Tim Carter. I would love to know what you think of these radio segments. Do you like them? Do they help you? Have they saved you money and/or time? Let me know by sending me an email: [email protected]

Tim Begs for Forgiveness for Missing Garden Shed Photos

Repairing an Exterior Wall Siding Drip Edge

John - Reducing a Combustion Air Intake

Local Flooding Possible from Hurricane Dennis

Keith - Vapor Retarder for Raised Floor in Louisiana

Eric - Roof Turbine Will Not Spin

Interview with Richard Kleiner of Southern Pine Council - Raised Floors

Heating Consulting

Posted on July 15, 2005 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: I need a new flow-through humidifier installed on my furnace. I got several bids and they were all within $30 with the average of $580.00. I went online and discovered the humidifier can be purchased for $165.00. It seems outrageous to me that the contractor is going to make over $400.00 for installing this piece of machinery. All of the contractors indicated the job should only take about an hour. Should I get into the HVAC business? It sure seems profitable. Chuck E., Detroit, MI

DEAR CHUCK: I can understand your frustration, but I am pretty sure you are not going to like my answers. For starters, forget about getting into the Heating, Cooling and Air-Conditioning (HVAC) business unless you have 15 - 20 years of your life you want to invest. HVAC is by far the most complex aspect of residential home construction. You would be astonished to learn how steep the learning curve is to successfully design, install and service HVAC systems.

Sure it takes an hour or so to install this humidifier. But what about the cost of his tools, the cost to produce the estimate, gasoline for the truck, insurance, office costs, uniform costs, laundry expenses, blah, blah, blah. PHOTO BY: Tim Carter

Before I started my writing career, I operated my own home-building business for 20 years. I didn't go to business school, but I can tell you that it didn't take long to learn that it costs quite a bit of money to operate a small business.

Small business owners have to pay all sorts of bills each month. Accountants often sort these by hard and soft costs, but at the end of the month, these expenses need to be shared by of all of the jobs the contractor does. These pass-through expenses are often allocated to each job as a percentage of the projected total sales for the month. By doing it this way, each customer pays her or his fair share.

For example, I'll wager you that each of those HVAC contractors had general liability insurance coverage, hidden matching payroll taxes, health insurance coverage, tool expenses, fuel for the service truck, payments on the truck, utility expenses for the office, lease payments, office staff, phone bills, professional fees to accountants and attorneys, office equipment and supplies, etc. I'll bet I could list 50 separate costs with very little effort.

But it gets more complicated. Contractors don't always get every bid they produce. Some progressive contractors actually charge you for a bid. Those that don't have to absorb the cost to send someone to look at your job and actually calculate the cost and deliver it to you.

Don't forget the time the contractor has to spend to go pick up the humidifier from the supply house. Or, if he does stock it at his business, he needs to charge you some money for tying up his working capital.

It is also fair for the contractor to add a small amount of money for his skill level and accumulated knowledge. Make enough phone calls and you might find an HVAC contractor who will do the job for $400.00. But you may be calling this person again and again when the humidifier doesn't seem to work all of the time.

Finally, there is the ugly P word. Yes, the contractor deserves a profit. It should not be excessive, but it should be there. This profit allows the smart business owner to reinvest in his business and grow it. You want this to happen. You want the contractor to be there in the future if something does go wrong. Those contractors that plow profits back into a company are there when you need them.

Many years ago, I learned a trick that increased my sales closure rate by 300 percent. To make a very long story short, I simply started showing my customers all of my costs. The first time it happened I was the high bidder on the job and I showed the numbers to the prospect in an act of desperation.

What I learned is that showing the numbers built trust. The customers quickly saw that the total cost of the job or the quote was often a long list of much smaller numbers that simply totaled the big number.

Imagine how you would react if you were presented with a bid quote that showed you the grand total, but then showed you perhaps ten other sub-categories of areas of cost that actually exist and must be passed on to you? My guess is that you will be impressed and might give this contractor's quote a little more of your attention.

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Gas Grills

Posted on July 14, 2005 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: My husband and I moved into a new condo that has a balcony. We are allowed to install a gas grill, but don't know which type to buy. On the wall immediately adjacent to the balcony is our mechanical and laundry room. Both our water heater and clothes dryer that are in this room are fueled with natural gas. Is it possible to extend the gas line through the exterior wall for a grill? Or would it make better sense to purchase a gas grill that has a tank of its own? Gina B., Chicago, IL

DEAR GINA: Who can resist the tantalizing aroma of steaming vegetables and seared meat wafting from an outdoor grill on a relaxing afternoon or evening? Evidently millions of people can't as barbecuing is a very popular pastime. It is easy to become addicted to this relaxing cooking technique.

The gas grill is fueled with natural gas. The gas line extends into the house and connects to the main house line. This grill never runs out of fuel. PHOTO CREDIT: Tim Carter

I'll bet you and your husband will enjoy the flavorful food so much, you will find yourselves outdoors this winter cooking while snowflakes are swirling about you. I have my own natural gas grill and have barbequed outdoors for many years. It is an enjoyable time and it is one of the few cooking tasks I can do with a degree of confidence.

But before you go and buy a grill be absolutely certain a gas grill is permitted in your apartment or condominium complex. Recent changes in the fire code have placed certain conditions on the use of gas grills in multi-family housing. It may be illegal to use one where you live. It is always best to contact the fire prevention officer at your local fire department to get a definitive answer.

Your decision over which grill to buy is not easy. There are quite a few things you need to consider. The actual price of comparable propane vs. natural gas grills is nearly identical in most markets, so the cost of the grill should not weigh heavily in your decision. In your case, you need to obtain a quote from a plumber to see what it will cost to extend a one-half inch approved gas line branch out to the balcony.

Be sure the plumber quotes two small shutoff valves for this branch line. One valve should be inside and the other one out on the balcony. The end of the line should also have a quick-connect adapter which will automatically shut off the flow of gas when the flexible gas line that connects to the grill is disconnected. Be sure all local fire codes are followed to the letter.

The cost difference of the fuel for either grill is so small it also doesn't matter as far as I am concerned. A standard propane cylinder holds just about 18 pounds of liquid propane and can fuel a grill with a total output of 36,000 Btus for well over 12 hours if you have the burners set on medium. If you grill for say 30 minutes or more each meal and cook outdoors 3 times a week, you may discover you need a propane cylinder refill every two months.

A typical refill for a propane cylinder often costs less than $15.00. I know it costs me very little to operate my natural gas grill each month. I estimate I spend less than 15 cents each time I grill for my family. Neither option is very expensive.

What you need to consider is how much you value your time and how convenient it is to get a propane tank refilled. Will it be a struggle for you to lug a filled propane cylinder on the train or bus back to your condo if you don't have a car?

How long will it take to get one filled or exchanged if you visit a large store that just sells propane as a sideline business? Will you run out of propane in the middle of a cooking task? You can buy an extra propane cylinder to have on hand for just this occasion, but if you are a procrastinator, you will end up with two empty cylinders for sure at some future time.

I really feel the actual deciding factor will be the convenience factor of getting propane refills. If it becomes a problem, you will regret not having spent the money to cover the one-time cost to get the natural gas line extended out onto the balcony. It probably is very attractive to buy the propane grill now and have it working within an hour of arriving home. But try to imagine how long you might stand in line to get that tank filled or how unhappy you might be if you have to travel to different locations to find a dealer that has filled propane cylinders that are in stock.

Not all natural gas lines can be extended. The plumber you hire needs to make sure the line feeding the new branch has enough capacity. If the gas line feeding the existing appliance near the balcony is only one-half inch diameter or less, you may not have enough gas to feed both the grill, the water heater and the clothes dryer.

It would be ideal if the gas service line feeding both the water heater and clothes dryer was a pipe that had a one-inch inner diameter. The plumber could then install a tee fitting off of this line that connects to a one-half inch diameter pipe that would supply natural gas. The short distance from the mechanical room to the balcony is also in your favor. If the pipe had to travel a long distance, there would be a slight amount of friction loss that might cause the grill to burn at a lower temperature if the water heater and clothes dryer were consuming gas at the same time as you were roasting a nice plump chicken!

Column 574

Storage Buildings IV – Materials List/Photos

Posted on July 14, 2005 by Tim Carter

The following material list will enable you to build the shed which is illustrated. The only thing missing is gravel and any concrete blocks or posts you will need to make the shed level. I would place the concrete blocks at four foot intervals on the 12 foot long walls. Put one at each corner and then go four feet in each direction. Used crushed stone beneath concrete blocks to level them. If you need to do minor adjustments, put thin pieces of steel or aluminum between the floor joists and the concrete block. Don't forget tie down anchors if you live in a high wind area!

Material List for 10 Foot Wide x 12 Foot Deep Shed

	Quantity	Item	Description
Floor Framing	13	2x6x10' CCA SYP	Floor Joists
	2	2x6x12' CCA SYP	Outer Band Boards
	22	2x6 Single Joist Hangers	Joist Hangers
	1	1 LB Box Joist Hanger Nails	Structural Galvanized Nails
	4	4x8x3/4 CDX CCA Plywood	Shed Flooring
	1	12x12 Foot 6 mil Poly	Vapor Barrier
	1	5 LBS 16d Sinkers	Joist Nails
	1	5 LBS 8d Sinkers	Floor and Roof Sheathing
Wall Framing	40	2x4x92 5/8" SPF Studs	Precut Wall Studs
	6	2x4x10' SPF Studs	Wall Plates
	6	2x4x12' SPF Studs	Wall Plates
	2	2x6x10' SPF Headers	Garage Door Header
	10	4x8x5/8 T1-11 Fir Siding	Wall Siding
	3	10' Lengths Aluminum Z Flashing	Siding Flashing at Gable Ends
	1	5 LBS Hot Dipped Galv. Siding Nails	Siding & Trim Nails
Roof Framing	8	2x6x12' SPF	Roof Rafters
	5	2x6x8' SPF	Collar Ties
	5	4x8x1/2" OSB Sheathing	Roof Sheathing
	12	1/2" Ply Clips	Plywood Spacing Clips
	10	H 2.5 Hurricane Clips	Rafter Tie Down Connectors
	2	Square Asphalt Shingles	Roofing Material
	1	Roll #15 Felt Paper	Roofing Underlayment
	1	10 LBS 1 and 1/2" nails	Galvanized Roofing Nails
	4	Acrylic Sheets	Skylights
Exterior Trim	8	1x4x10' Rough Sawn Cedar	Corner Trim Boards
	4	1x6x12' Rough Sawn Cedar	Roof Rake Boards
	2	1x8x12' Rough Sawn Cedar	Roof Gutter/Fascia Boards
	4	10' Lengths Roof Drip Edge	Roof Edge at Roof Bottom
Workbench & Shelving	3	2x4x10 SPF Studs	Workbench Wall Cleats & Legs
	3	1x2x10 Firring Strips	Shelf Cleats
	3	4x8x3/4 CDX Plywood	Workbench & Shelving Mtl.

Note how the T-111 siding overhangs the plywood subfloor by one inch. This stops rain from getting into the shed.

Note how the ends of the rafters are flush with the outer surface of the T-111 siding. This allows you to install the 1x8 fascia without blocking.

If you use a 2x4 as your roof ridge, the diagonal measurement for the rafter is 5 feet 4 4/3 inches. This is the measurement from tip of one plumb cut to the tip of the same edge.

Column B144

Flagstone Patio on Crushed Stone

Posted on July 14, 2005 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: I intend to install a flagstone patio in the very near future and have been told I can place it on compacted crushed limestone that contains screenings. What are screenings and will this method work? The person giving the advice said the crushed limestone beneath the flagstones would eventually harden like concrete. What steps should I take to install the limestone in this fashion? I want to know if this will work as I don't want to have to tear everything out and start over. Tim G., Geneva, IL

DEAR TIM: Flagstone is one of the most popular patio materials I know of. The reasons are many. It is extremely durable, it looks magnificent and is naturally slip-resistant. It is also heavy so I can see why you only want to install each flagstone just one time.

Here are three piles of crushed stone. The one on the left is just larger pieces of crushed rock. The middle pile are the fines. The pile on the right is the crushed rock mixed with the fines. The larger coin on the left is a quarter and the smaller coin is a dime. PHOTO BY: Tim Carter

Screenings are another name for fines. These fines that range in size from dust-sized particles to small, angular rock chips no bigger than a pencil eraser. They are a by-product of the rock-crushing process and are a very important component for the base material under your proposed patio.

If you were to use just crushed limestone with no fines, the flagstone would have a good base, but not the best. The introduction of these fines is what allows the crushed limestone to mimic poured concrete.

Without the fines there would be considerable void space between each of the larger pieces of limestone. But when you add the fines into the mix, the void spaces disappear. The fines lock each piece of crushed limestone together and make it nearly impossible for them to move. This is what happens when the sand and cement harden in concrete. It is not much different than you being in a tightly packed elevator. In that situation you can barely move your arms much less walk around inside the elevator.

The first step for installing this crushed limestone is to ensure the soil is compacted just beneath the place where the patio will be. Use a mechanical vibrating plate compactor or an old-fashioned hand tamper for this job. You can then install a geotextile fabric or traditional asphalt felt paper over the soil before the crushed limestone is installed. The fabric or felt paper stops soil particles from migrating up into the crushed limestone during wet weather.

I would plan to install no less than 6 inches of limestone for the patio base under the flagstone. But the limestone is not installed all at once. It needs to be installed in two lifts of 3 inches each. Install 3 inches of the loose limestone with the fines and spread it out evenly. Use a mechanical vibrating plate compactor to compact the limestone. A hand tamper is not the proper tool to use for this part of the job. Run the compacting machine back and forth in parallel lines across the limestone as you might cut your grass. Then do the exact same thing but at 90 degrees to the initial direction you ran the machine.

After the first lift is compacted, it is time for the final lift. This layer is very critical as it must conform to the final shape and surface of the patio. If you want your patio to be perfectly level, then this final layer of crushed limestone must be level or nearly so when it is installed and compacted. Remember, the final surface of the patio is just going to be 1 inch higher or so than this layer of crushed limestone. The flagstones are going to sit on this layer of crushed limestone. Imagine how hard it is going to be to remove compacted crushed limestone if you discover that it is too high.

The biggest concern with installing flagstone in this manner is the material used to fill the gaps between the flagstones. You can use just pure fines for this aspect of the job so long as they are more than rock dust. It is imperative to have small rock chips in the fines.

Even after the fines are compacted between the edges of the flagstones, there can be problems once the patio is finished. In periods of heavy rain, it is possible for the fines to wash out from between the flagstones. This creates an ongoing maintenance issue.

You can mortar between the flagstones with a mixture of Portland cement and sand, but I would only do this a year after the patio was installed. This will give the limestone base plenty of time to compact with a little help from Mother Nature. If you do not want to wait, you can lightly sprinkle the limestone base with water for several hours after the final layer has been installed and compacted. Then come back on the following day and run the vibrating plate compactor over the limestone base one final time. Fill any low spots that may develop.

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Storage Buildings III – Roofing/Trim/Skylights

Posted on July 14, 2005 by Tim Carter

Roof Framing

You are going to cut the rafters yourself. It is simple. Use a framing square to make a 5/12 pitch roof. See materials list for the rafter lengths. Set the rafters two feet on center starting from one end. Remember, center measurements start at the outer edge of the first rafter, not its center! Install the 1/2 inch roof plywood with the plyclips. The plyclips are used in between the rafters where the next row begins.

Roofing and Trim

Follow the directions on the inside of the shingle pack to install the roofing shingles. This roofing job should only take 3 hours. Be sure to use felt paper under the shingles.

The acrylic skylights are easy. You simply make the acrylic sheet six inches wider and longer than the opening you have made in the roof. Drill three 1/8 inch holes in one inch from each edge on each side. Slide the clear plastic up under the shingles at the top of the opening. Caulk with clear silicone under the edges and the bottom. Nail through the predrilled holes gently! Too tight and you will crack the sheet.

Install the rough swan cedar trim as shown. It is really easy to apply. Remember, if you prestain or paint on all sides, edges, and cut edges, your paint/stain job will last much longer. Take your time and think before you cut or nail. Always check for things to be plumb, level and square!

Continue to Storage Buildings IV - Materials List / Photos

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Storage Buildings II – Walls/Wall Framing

Posted on July 14, 2005 by Tim Carter

Wall Framing

The walls are constructed just like the floors. You actually build them on their side on the floor of the shed. Use the precut studs (92 5/8") because by the time you add a single bottom plate and two top plates, the wall will be 97 1/8 inches high.

You must make sure these walls are square before you attach the plywood! I don't need to tell you the diagonals. Just measure them in the field after you nail the wall together. When the diagonals are equal, the wall is square. Nail the wall plywood so it overhangs the bottom of the wall by 1 and 3/4 inch. This will prevent rainwater from entering under the wall plate. Don't worry about the missing wall sheathing at the top.

Build the two 10 foot end walls first. When you frame for the door wall, let the bottom plate run from corner to corner. We will cut it out in a few days. Trim the edges of the wall plywood even with the ends of the walls.

For the door wall, create a rough opening that measures 8 feet wide and 7 feet tall from the subfloor. This will allow the metal overhead door to fit perfectly.

When these two walls are complete, stand them up and nail them in place. Be sure the overhanging wall plywood is tight against the floor system.

Framing the other two walls will be a little tougher. These have to be framed sideways since the two end walls are in place. Remember to let the wall plywood overhang the necessary 4 inches! These walls, don't forget, are not 12 feet long. The plates actually measure 11 feet 5 inches. The first two walls make up the difference. By allowing the plywood wall material to overhang, this allows you to nail the corners together when the walls are erected. Once the walls are erected, check the top corners of the wall for square. It should be the same diagonal as the floor if you did everything right.

Continue to Part III - Storage Buildings - Roofing/Trim/Skylights

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Storage Buildings

Posted on July 14, 2005 by Tim Carter

Layout and the Square Box

My plans call for a 10 foot by 12 foot storage shed. The key to a successful project is creating a level, square flooring system. It is a breeze. Remember that all of the lumber has to be checked for square ends. The joist materials and rafters often have cuts that are slightly out of square.Wall studs are usually very accurate. Plywood is extremely accurate.

The first thing we are going to do is build the outer box. Take the two 12 foot 2x6 floor joists and cut them exactly 12 feet long. Check the thickness. They should be 1 and 1/2 inches. If so, cut two of the 2x6 floor joists nine feet nine inches. Nail the joists together so that the 12 foot boards cover the ends of the 10 footers. If you did it right you now have a box 10 foot by 12 foot.

Place the box where the shed will be. Use crushed gravel and solid concrete blocks to level the box. Place a block at each corner and every 4 feet along the 12 foot walls.

Now let's square the box so the plywood fits nicely and the roof rafters work! A line between opposing corners of the box is called a diagonal. The box will be square when both diagonals measure 15 feet 7 and 7/16ths inches. Just get it close for now.

Fill in the Joists

I have designed a shed that will handle quite a bit of weight. The floor will be stiff. I have achieved this by placing the floor joists on one foot centers. In addition, I have used metal joist hangers. These really hold the joists in place much better than nailing into the end of the joist through the band board.

Place your tape on one corner of a 12 foot board and mark the center of each joist. Install the joists and joist hangers. Do not use roofing nails for the hangers! They are not structural nails. Use approved galvanized joist hanger nails. Once the floor joists are in place, check the floor joistbox for square. It has to be right now. If you find it necessary to temporarily stake it to stop movement, do so.

Plywood and Vapor Barrier

Install the vapor barrier over the joists. Then begin to install the plywood. Be sure to stagger your seams. The cut piece from the first row will be used to start the second row, so make a nice accurate cut!

Continue to Part II - Storage Buildings - Walls/Wall Framing

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Exterior Doors Rub Carpets

Posted on July 14, 2005 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: We have a new home built with logs. The front door is a gorgeous fiberglass unit with sidelights. The problem is the door was installed too low and I can't even have the thinnest area rug inside my home for people to wipe their feet. Can the fiberglass door be cut off so that I can stop ruining my floors? If not, what other options do I have? Heather W., Elmira, NY

DEAR HEATHER: Many years ago I made this mistake as a rookie builder. The homeowner was so upset she couldn't see straight. The irony of the situation is that it would have taken just two extra minutes during the rough carpentry stage to eliminate the problem. You can bet I made that mistake just once. Unfortunately for you and any number of other homeowners, there is this endless conveyor belt dumping rookie builders into the marketplace each week that are making this mistake and quite a few others at the same time.

Look at the daylight under the door. There is about 3/4 inch clearance between the bottom weatherstripping and the oriental throw rug. PHOTO BY: Tim Carter

New exterior doors almost always come from the factory with the entire frame built and the door already hung within the frame. The bottom threshold is often adjustable and frequently measures about 1 and 1/4-inches high from the underside of the door frame to the top of the threshold surface which contacts the door weatherstripping.

The finish carpenter that installed your door probably set the door unit directly on top of the subfloor of your home. Unfortunately, this is a common practice in many homes. But some finish floor systems can quickly gobble up 3/4 inch of space or more. I have actually seen finished flooring that was so thick it caused the front door weatherstripping to rub on the interior flooring. As you have discovered, when this needless mistake happens, throw rugs often are pushed aside as the door swings open.

The truth of the matter is the installation height of the door is not tied to the subfloor of the house. The bottom of the door frame can be any height above the subfloor so long as the overall rough-in height of the stud walls is built to accommodate the overall height of the door frame and any spacers that are placed under the door to lift it off of the subfloor. I always placed a 3/4 inch thick piece of lumber under my door frames so the bottom of the door frame was flush with the top of my finished floors. Your builder could have done that in about 5 seconds.

Since you live in a log home, your problem can likely be solved in one day. The door needs to be carefully removed from the opening and the height of the rough opening needs to be enlarged perhaps one inch, maybe slightly more. This will be fairly easy to do since your home's exterior wall is made from wood.

If the exterior of a home is covered in brick, stone, stucco or some other hard material, the retrofitting job becomes more difficult, but not impossible. Cutting off the bottom of the door is probably not an option because your new fiberglass door is not really made to be planed or cut off as an old carpenter might do with a solid-wood door.

If you cut into the bottom of a standard fiberglass door, my guess is that you will quickly discover insulating expanding foam that is sandwiched between the fiberglass skins of the door. This foam almost always extends very close to the bottom of the door unit. Cutting off the bottom of the door is not recommended by the manufacturers.

Exterior doors come from the factory a given height and the common practice among many rough carpenters is to make the rough frame opening one inch higher than the actual height of the door frame. But they can make the opening any height. The key to success in making the exterior door work perfectly is to have detailed plans that tell the rough carpenter all of the information he needs to know to calculate the correct rough opening.

The plans need to list the actual model of the exterior door, its unit dimension which is the actual width and height of the door frame and the type and thickness of the actual finished flooring material that will be adjacent to the door. This dimension can vary significantly. For example, if plush carpeting is going in, the finished floor height could be 1 and one quarter inches higher than the subfloor. If ceramic tile is being laid on a concrete slab, the finished tile may only be 3/8 inch higher than the slab or subfloor. Each job is different and the architect or builder must provide the needed information so no one is making a guess.

Column 572

Vinyl Decking vs. Seal Wood Decking Costs

Numbers - They Don't Lie

Expert Advice For Your Home