DEAR TIM: I have to strip some paint and clear finishes from an older home. Some of the paint to be removed is latex while the remaining is older oil based paint. There are places that have perhaps 20 coats of paint or more. Do I need to use different strippers? What is the best way to apply and remove paint strippers? Do you have any tips on making this job go as smoothly as possible? Mark - Kansas City, MO

DEAR MARK: Make sure you take your reading glasses with you to the home center. You are going to need them. There are numerous paint stripping products. Some work better on latex paints while others work better on oil based paints. To further complicate matters, some paint removal products can harm fine furniture that you intend to re-stain and clear coat. You must take your time and do diligent research to obtain the best results.

Paint strippers contain different types of active ingredients. Aggressive solvents such as methylene chloride can be found in certain strippers. Other strippers contain caustic ingredients like sodium hydroxide. There are other new "safe" strippers that contain other chemicals. These chemicals soak into the paint and soften the film. With many strippers, the softened paint finish begins to swell. This swelling produces tension forces that cause the paint layers to delaminate from one another and the wood or metal you are refinishing.

Strippers that contain methylene chloride can often remove 4 to 5 layers of old oil based paint at one time. However, some of these strippers seem to be able to remove only a single layer of latex paint per application. Certain new "safe" strippers do just the opposite. They seem to work better on latex paint films than oil paint.

You can buy a stripper that contains sodium hydroxide that claims it can remove up to 30 layers of paint in one application. This stripper has a very thick paste-like consistency much like drywall joint compound. It is troweled onto the surface and covered with a special paper. The paper inhibits evaporation of the stripper. This allows the stripper to penetrate deeply into multiple layers of paint. Once the stripper has softened the paint, you remove the paper and old paint in one simple step.

Paint strippers work the best when applied and removed in temperatures that range between 60 - 85 degrees F. It is best to work in a shaded area that has good ventilation. Direct sunlight, windy conditions and excessively high temperatures can cause many strippers to dry too quickly. Covering paint strippers with plastic film or aluminum foil will help them stay moist for a longer period of time.

To obtain the highest performance from a paint stripper it must dwell for an extended time on the paint. This means let the stripper do the work, not you. All too often people apply a stripper and expect results within minutes. Some strippers take hours to soften multiple layers. The top layer of paint will bubble and blister very quickly in most instances. However, the stripper may still be working. Often the liquid portion of the stripper is driving deeper into the layers of paint. If you scrape off the paint film too early you may remove active stripper that has yet to do its job! It is best to read the directions on the can and follow them to the letter.

Clear urethane finishes can be tough to remove. To make sure that you increase your chances of success, sand these surfaces with rough sandpaper before applying the stripper. This allows the stripper to penetrate more rapidly into the tough urethanes. Be sure to read the label before you buy the stripper. Some strippers will not work well on certain clear finishes.

Author's Note: We've received other questions about similar problems. Here's one from Leigh, in Columbus, OH.

"I have a cement pad/stoop located in front of my front door. The previous owners painted this a dark brown. The paint is chipping off. I was wondering if you could please tell me how to remove this paint? The pad is in good condition, and I would much rather prefer a 'natural' cement color! Thank you! "

This alligatored house paint is next door to my home. There are probably 10 - 15 layers of paint on this house and many of them are brittle oil-based paint films. Over time, they simply can't win the battle of adhesion.

DEAR TIM: My husband and I intend to paint our 85 year old Victorian house. The wood siding has peeled to bare wood in many places. What can we do to maximize the life span of this new paint job? Should we power wash the exterior or just use a hose? Do the new paints require a primer? What is the best type of paint to use on our older home? Nancy - Utica, NY

DEAR NANCY: It appears that you and I will be doing the same thing this summer. It is time to freshen up my 10 year old Victorian home. Even though we might both follow the same procedures and use the same paints, there is a very good chance that my paint job will outlast yours by 50 percent or more. The first thing you need to do is identify what might be the cause of the excessive peeling on your home.

Paint really dislikes wood. Wood siding and trim are like my son - on the move constantly. Water vapor and liquid water that enter and exit wood cause it to expand and contract. This movement breaks the bond between paint and the wood fibers. Look for possible sources of water that might be getting behind the paint film on your house. Excessive indoor humidity or attic moisture can easily pass through exterior walls and enter the untreated wood siding from behind. Gaps between windows and doors and the siding can allow rain water to enter the end grain of wood. Overflowing gutters, leaking down spouts or roof leaks can drench wood trim and siding.

All of these problems must be corrected before you paint. In addition, you are fighting a losing battle with the 85 year old paint on your home. Old houses were painted with oil based paints. These paints become more brittle with age. As the wood moves back and forth, the paint simply looses its grip. Even though you may scrape loose paint, a year or so later another spot on the siding may succumb to the forces of gravity and peel away. Fortunately I do not have oil based paint or primers on my 10 year old house.

Successful paint jobs are based in surface preparation. This is the most unglamorous part of a paint job. Paint can labels all say to apply paint to a clean, dry surface. Scrape all loose paint and wash your house. Clean your house the same way you clean yourself in the shower. Use soap and water and rub the skin of your house! I happen to prefer using a tile grout sponge with powdered detergents. Be sure to rinse the soap from the old paint. After you wash the house, I guarantee you that you will find additional places that need to be scraped. Look closely for these potential trouble spots. Be sure to fill all nail holes with spackling compound and caulk all gaps between the siding and trim boards.

Power washing does not always remove all of the dirt from your old paint. What, you don't believe me? Take your car to a self-clean car wash that uses power washers. Wash your car and let it dry. I guarantee you that you will be able to remove a thin film of remaining dirt with a white glove or sponge. That same film is left behind when you power wash a house.

Power washers used by rookies can also damage and erode wood siding and trim. They can also drive water deep into bare wood. If you paint before the wood dries, the paint will very likely blister and peel within months - sometimes days.

Water based acrylic primers are a must. Please read a more up-to-date article on primers for exterior use: Exterior Paint - Proper Primers and Cleaning a MUST! These special paints are formulated to stick to bare wood or previously painted wood. Primers also help seal bare wood so that the finish coat sheen is uniform. Be sure to use a primer made by the same company that makes the finish coat paint. The finish coat paint instructions will tell you which primers are compatible.

Is the exterior of your house looking drab? Find the professional painters by using my Exterior Painting & Staining Checklist. I offer a 100% Money Back Guarantee.

Purchase water based 100 percent acrylic paint for your top coat. These paints have the greatest amount of long term flexibility. Remember, paints are simply colored glues. They stick best to surfaces that are squeaky clean and dry. The extra day or two spent hand washing your house could easily add 2 to 3 years of life to the paint job.

Please click the following link to read my latest findings on primers for bare wood. It contains more up-to-date advice that is different from this older column: Exterior Painting  You should also read another column about the exact paint I use on my own home. Since I learn about new and exciting products each week, it is no wonder I come across great paints. Go read about: Urethane House Paint.