Faux Painting

Posted on September 23, 2003 by Tim Carter

Faux finishing can be done with simple materials found in your home.

DEAR TIM: I recently saw someone transform the walls of a typical drab room by using just paint and specialty glazes, some newspaper and regular painting tools. The effect was dazzling. What is really involved in doing faux painting? I also have a dreary, dark paneled family room. What can be done with that? Judy R., Falls City, NE

DEAR JUDY: Faux or "false" painting has really become popular. The reason, I believe, is straightforward. Just about any person who has some patience can create a multi-colored and often textured look that really catches the eye. I have seen some simple faux finishes done that look just like leather. If you become skilled in this craft, you can create marble, wood grained looks, stone blocks, etc. that can fool just about anyone.

Faux painting usually involves multiple steps. As you have noted, it requires minimal tools for most jobs and just a few special components. Large paint stores or home centers almost always carry the special glazes required for certain faux finishes. Some also carry unique tools that make faux finishes look professional.

The faux painting newsprint finish you saw requires that you apply a dark color on the walls as your base coat. The neat thing is that you control this color. It can be a green, perhaps a medium royal blue, or a bronze tone paint. The brown colors are the ones that will make your walls look like rich leather.

Want a faux finish but don't have time to do it yourself? Find the professional painters by using my Interior Painting & Staining Checklist. I offer a 100% Money Back Guarantee.

You need to visit your friendly newspaper printing facility. If you talk to the right person and show them your paid subscription bill, they will probably give you the necessary blank newsprint you need for your project. If you use regular newspaper that has ink on it, the ink will transfer to the walls. An average sized room, say 12 x 12 x 8 feet high will consume 125 to 225 twenty-four inch by thirty-six inch regular sheets of newsprint! You fold the newsprint accordion style or fan style before you begin to paint. All of the sheets need to be pre-folded before you start. If you waste time folding while you paint, the finishes will dry on the wall before you have time to work with them.

The next step is easy. You apply a cream colored glaze to fully dried paint. Lay a folded sheet of the newspaper at an angle and push it down into the wet glaze. Fold and unfold the paper until it is saturated with the glazing. Only work one wall at a time. Be sure to maintain the same angle as you work so the finish looks consistent. Step back frequently about six to eight feet and look at the results.

A faux finish can be made to look like genuine marble.

There are also some nifty paint rollers that will produce a similar finish. Some rollers that are available in stores have adjustments on them so a variety of finishes can be achieved with the same tool. You can even get instructional video tapes with some of the tools. These rollers save lots of time and may be just the ticket for a novice.

To avoid frustration, I would absolutely practice first on a 4 x 8 foot sheet of drywall in a garage or workshop. If you feel confident, then go inside and do a small closet. This will get you used to dealing with the corners. Get your technique down before you tackle your first room.

Dark paneling can be lightened easily with faux painting techniques. If the paneling has a grained or textured surface, you will end up with a dramatic look. You apply a light colored oil based paint that has been thinned 33 to 40 percent with paint thinner. The paneling must be clean, dry and wax- free. If it has a urethane or old varnish finish, this finish will need to be softened with a clear finish softener available at a large paint supplier. You apply the thinned colored oil paint to only 3 or 4 boards at a time and immediately wipe it off. It is a magnificent look once finished!

Column 254

Find a Pro by Asking the Right Questions

Posted on September 23, 2003 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: I have always felt uneasy about hiring a contractor. I am never totally convinced I selected the right person. I am sure there are professional builders and sub-contractors out there, but how do you find them each and every time? Is there an easy way to find an honest and reliable contractor? Sally M., Kansas City, MO

DEAR SALLY: I can see why you would feel uneasy about hiring a contractor. After all, most contractors are aliens to you until you meet them the first time. My guess is that you don't typically invite total strangers into your home when the doorbell rings. To a degree, this is exactly what happens when you talk with a contractor for the first time.

Here are just a few of the monthly trade magazines I read. Professionals read these as well.

Your anxiety is deeply rooted and well founded. Think of it. You entrust a contractor to tear apart, rebuild, alter, repair, etc. your most valuable possession - your home! What's more, you might often leave this person or their sub-contractors alone in your home while you go to work, run errands or pick up your kids from school. For you to do this and not worry, you need to build trust in a person. You can't build trust by reviewing a quote or a bid.

Your observation regarding the existence of professionals is absolutely true. Just about every city or town has true craftspeople who use the best materials, take no shortcuts, and are dedicated to their profession. These individuals often have 15 - 20 years experience in their field. They are highly productive, want to maintain their integrity, and they invest in their business.

How would you like me to build your new home? It's probably impossible for me to fit your job into my schedule, but I will gladly share hundreds of my tricks and building secrets with you and your builder. Check out my New House Specifications.

Professionals can invest in their business in many ways. Just about every trade has a professional association. Active membership in one of these groups tells you that the contractor is willing to take the time to learn more about the industry. Continuing education is available in many forms. There are numerous conventions each year that offer hundreds of classes that help contractors and sub-contractors keep up with industry, business and regulatory changes. There is an abundance of fantastic trade publications such as Fine Homebuilding, Remodeling, Builder, Professional Builder, Journal of Light Construction, etc. to name just a few! If your contractor can prove to you that he/she reads some of these on a monthly basis, you may have found a winner.

Often people will tell you to ask for references or call the Better Business Bureau. These are excellent places to start, but they won't tell you the whole story. One excellent way to find a pro is to visit an old fashioned lumber yard or wholesale supply house where a sub-contractor buys his materials. Ask for the general manager or the owner. Request names of individuals who do the following: buy high quality materials, have been in business 15 years or more, and pay their bills on time. Ask the general manager for the 3 people HE would ask for quotes on jobs for his own home.

If you really want to find the professional, you will need to do some extra work. The best source of information about a person is the person himself. Anybody who works in the human resources department of a company will tell you this. You need to sit down and ask the contractor numerous questions about his business, ambitions, his management habits and other important topics. This process should be nearly identical to when you were interviewed for your last job or your most recent promotion. A professional will readily submit to this opportunity and readily answer any question you ask. If a contractor objects to a short interview at your dining room table or squirms during the process, then politely show him to the door and ask to see the next applicant!

Column 255

Area Rugs – Spot a Great One

Posted on September 23, 2003 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: I am thinking of purchasing some area rugs for different rooms in my house. How do you pick the right size rug for a room? I have children and pets and am thinking it is not a good idea to get a good rug. How do you determine quality as all the rugs all look great at the stores? Do I have to buy a pad for an area rug? Roberta P., Inverness, FL

DEAR ROBERTA: Congratulations! You are about to make a very wise purchase. Area rugs, in my opinion, are one of the most interesting design elements you can introduce into a room. My wife and I own seven area rugs and we absolutely love them. One of them is octagonal in shape and looks splendid in our entrance hall. If you purchase a quality rug, your children and grandchildren will probably use it in their homes.

This is a display rack at the store where we have purchased all of our rugs. Sam, the owner, is one honest businessman. The last thing we bought was an oriental runner that goes up our staircase!

There is no set sizing formula when selecting an area rug. The rug size is usually dictated by how the room is used. Some rooms may actually have two or more different sitting or activity areas. For example, we have two area rugs in my family room. There is a large one beneath the couch and two chairs that are opposite our fireplace. At one end of the room, we have a cherry card table with four chairs. Beneath this table arrangement, we have placed another smaller rug. The two rugs have patterns that compliment one another.

Don't always feel that furniture has to be completely on or off an area rug. Be aware that most rugs come in stock sizes. If you want a custom sized rug for some reason, you will pay a king's ransom for it. Flexibility is often necessary when trying to size an area rug.

Many people goof up the timing of the rug purchase. Area rugs are available in far fewer patterns and styles than wallpaper, upholstery, and window treatment fabrics. If you select your furniture fabrics and wallpaper first, you may have a hard time choosing an area rug. The rug should be the foundation of the interior design of a room. If you choose a large print pattern in the rug, try to use small patterns in the other fabrics within the room. If you are going to spend lots of money on rugs, furniture, fabrics, etc. within a room, I would absolutely hire a certified interior designer to help coordinate all of the colors and patterns.

Kids and pets can hurt area rugs, poor quality rugs that is! If you anticipate heavy use or wear on a rug, you will benefit by purchasing a high quality fabric. Wool is probably your best choice. The color dyes completely penetrate wool fibers. As wool wears, it releases cells much like a snake that sheds its skin. The newly exposed wool fiber cells looks as good as the ones that were just worn off. To even the wear on an area rug, you should flip or rotate it every six months. You can't do this with wall to wall carpeting!

Rug makers have developed a synthetic fiber - polypropylene - that mimics many of the qualities of wool. It has the look and feel of wool but only costs half the price of a wool rug. The synthetic fabric consists of small glass-like rods that do accept the color dyes throughout the fiber. However, foot traffic actually causes scratches on the small glass rods. The result over time is a dull look in all of the traffic lanes. The synthetic rug fibers crush more easily than wool fibers.

Pads are essential beneath area rugs. They absorb the shock of foot traffic. Select a pad that is no thicker than 3/8 inch and is sticky on both sides. Do not use padding that is made for wall-to-wall carpeting as it commonly is slick on one side. A slick pad will result in a fall for sure.

High quality area rug shops often let you "try before you buy." This transportable feature is another benefit of area rugs. If you grow tired of one, you can roll it up and put it in another room or sell it. I am confident you will be pleased with your area rug purchase as long as you buy from a reputable dealer.

Related Articles: Area Rug Tips, Area Rug Cleaning Tips, Area Rug Dealers

Column 256

Cracks Need Urethane Caulk

Posted on September 23, 2003 by Tim Carter

You are looking at a professional caulk gun and a tube of superb urethane caulk. Urethane caulk is sticky, but once it cures it is as pliable as an Olympic gymnast.

DEAR TIM: I have some difficult caulking jobs around my house. One happens to be some wood wainscoting in my kitchen. Each winter cracks appear between the pieces. I also need to caulk numerous exterior cracks adjacent to brick, wood and aluminum. Are there any high quality caulks that can withstand lots of movement? While I have your ear, just how do you create really smooth caulk joints? Sarah G., Bloomington, IN

DEAR NANCY: Ouch! I'll tell you how to get those smooth joints if you would just let go. Seriously, you have entered the caulk market at a superb time. There are some new caulks that have been introduced to the residential marketplace that will work well for all of your jobs.

The caulk industry has seen ever increasing improvements in many of its products. Traditionally there have been two major groups of caulks: solvent based and water based. New federal anti- pollution regulations regarding the release of volatile organic compounds (VOC) found in solvent based caulks have caused the caulk manufacturers to shift their attention and improve the water based products. Water based caulks now have better flexibility and better adhesion on smooth surfaces. Many residential caulks are made that meet or exceed commercial caulking specifications.

Probably the most exciting new residential caulk is urethane based. The product has been around for nearly 50 years but until recently, it was used primarily by commercial contractors. If you like silicone caulk, you are going to love urethane caulk.

Urethane caulks cure chemically just like silicone. They exhibit very low shrinkage, have a high tear resistance, are paintable and have excellent water resistance. Silicone caulk users know that paint and silicone simply don't mix. Once you let a urethane caulk cure, you can paint over it with no problems.

The urethane caulks stick very well to just about any surface. Urethane caulks will fill cracks next to vinyl siding, cedar (or any other wood), aluminum, and any masonry material. The urethane caulks adhere well because of a cross-linking chemical reaction. As the caulk cures, it actually interlocks with the material it is applied to. Water vapor fuels the chemical reaction. Beware, urethane caulks don't discriminate. If you leave some excess on your moist skin, the caulk will stick to you too!

One minor drawback of urethane caulks is their cure time. If you intend to paint a urethane caulk, you need to let it dry for at least 2 - 3 days before coating it with a water based paint. A 7 - 10 day drying period is necessary for oil based paints.

Keep in mind that caulks are a maintenance item. Even those that are advertised with extended warranties (20, 30 or more years) can fail. You need to periodically check exterior caulked seams to see if they are still in good shape.

The art of caulking is fairly simple. Most people are handicapped from the start because of an inferior caulk gun. Inexpensive caulk guns found in most paint stores and home centers have a low pumping ratio action. This means that lots of caulk is released with each squeeze of the gun. Professional caulk guns release far less caulk with each full trigger stroke. This enables you to more easily control the flow of caulk from the gun.

The tip of the caulk tube should be cut slightly smaller than the size of the crack being filled. Apply the caulk so a slight amount of excess mounds up over the crack. Gently slide your finger over the fresh caulk. If excess caulk begins to overflow around your finger you need to wipe this excess caulk into a rag. Water based caulk joints can be touched up with a damp rag or tile grout sponge for that professional look.

Column 257

Shovels and Spades for Women

Posted on September 23, 2003 by Tim Carter

See that shovel second from the left? It is stainless steel! (It was the Tool of the Week in the July 26, 2017 Newsletter.) Oh my, it is a fantastic shovel. The long tool in the center is the very cool post hole digger.

DEAR TIM: I have numerous outdoor digging chores scheduled for this spring. I am a fairly petite woman and struggle with regular shovels. Are there shovels and spades available that are made more for women than men? What shovels are best for digging certain holes? Are there specific shovels and other digging tools that will minimize the work required for digging jobs? Pauline B., Spicewood, TX

DEAR PAULINE: Your back, leg and arm muscles are going to thank you this spring once you purchase some of the awesome new shovels, spades and post hole diggers that I have recently seen and tested. Some of these tools are so beautiful, it is a shame to get them dirty. I believe the explosive growth of gardening as a hobby is responsible for the abundance of new, excellent digging tools that are now available.

Why struggle with regular sized shovels!

I know why you struggle with regular sized shovels. Most are designed for use by construction workers that probably weigh 100 pounds more than you and have considerable upper body strength. A standard sized shovel has more surface area than a smaller tool. This increased area produces lots of extra friction when you try to cut through soil. For example, the blade of a flat spade I commonly use measures 7.25 inches wide by 12 inches long (87 square inches). It weighs in at a hefty 5 lbs. I recently purchased a beautiful border spade for my wife, Kathy. Its blade is only 5.5 inches wide by 9 inches long (49.5 square inches). It weighs in at slightly less than 4 pounds. Kathy looks like a well oiled machine when she digs effortlessly in the garden with this tool!

You can also buy small round point shovels that will allow you to quickly slice into moist soil. In fact, I had to recently purchase a new one for Kathy since I ruined her original one. The smaller round point shovels are excellent tools for mixing concrete and mortar in wheelbarrows.

What finishes are available on smaller shovels?

The smaller shovels are available in all sorts of finishes. You can get super durable high carbon steel, epoxy coated steel, and even rustproof stainless steel! The wooden handles are works of art. You can purchase gold stained Maine ash wood handles or ones made from beech. If you care for these tools by cleaning and drying them after each use, they will last for generations.

Get the right shovel for the right job!

I have seen people struggle when they dig holes for plants or dig drainage trenches. The trick is to use different tools for different parts of the job. If you want to dig a square or rectangular hole with straight sides and a flat bottom, then you will need a round point shovel and a flat spade. A round point shovel has a semi-circular blade that comes to a pointed tip. It requires the least amount of force when slicing into soil.

A flat spade tends to have a blunt tip. If you use this type of tool to make initial cuts into the ground, you may struggle. A flat spade works best to shape the sides of a hole once the majority of dirt has been removed with a round point shovel. Flat border spades work great for cutting and removing sod, especially if you sharpen the tip with a metal file.

What is a post hole digger?

If you need to dig post holes this spring, you may want to consider using a revolutionary post hole digger. Traditional post hole digging tools have two long cutting blades that resemble round point shovels. You drive the tool into the ground and then operate the handles much like a scissors to gather and remove the loosened soil. Because of the tool design, the top of the hole gets bigger as you dig deeper. These diggers also have a hard time capturing dry or sandy soil.

You can now buy a new post hole digger that works much like a mechanical backhoe. The tool has a single cutting blade. Once it is driven into the soil you operate a wooden handle that rotates the cutting blade 90 degrees. The cutting blade scoops and cradles the soil as you pull it from the hole. This new post hole digger allows you to maintain a consistent hole diameter from top to bottom.

Mentioned in the July 30, 2008 Newsletter.

Column 258

Wet / Dry Vacuums Have Grown Up

Posted on September 23, 2003 by Tim Carter

wet/dry vacuum

DEAR TIM: It is time for me to purchase a new wet/dry vacuum cleaner. My older model created a dust cloud when I would try to vacuum fine dust particles. Can you safely use wet/dry vacuums to pick up large quantities of water? What else is new? Mark S., Union City, TN

DEAR MARK: Don't tell me about older wet/dry vacuum models! Mine also blew dust, even with a new filter. I was most upset at how the painted metal drums would rust within a year's time. It is my pleasure to announce that you can now buy any number of wet/dry vacuums that put older models to shame. Gone forever are the days of rust and dust!

I feel the biggest advancement you will find is the increased horsepower (hp) of the motors. 4, 5 and 6 hp motors are common. It is even possible to purchase a 6 hp vacuum with a detachable blower head. This vacuum does double duty. It functions as a standard vacuum but transforms itself with a flip of a lever to a hand held 200 mile per hour (mph) blower you can use to quickly blow leaves, dust and debris from your garage or any other surface. Industrial or professional wet/dry vacuums are available with even more powerful vacuum motors.

Virtually every high quality wet/dry vacuum made today comes with a high strength plastic drum. You will find that the capacities of these are enormous when compared to older models. 12 and 16 gallon capacities are commonplace. If you need more than that, you can purchase ones that have 20 or 25 gallon drums. Years ago it was a struggle to empty liquids from the drums. Just about every model I have seen is equipped with a drain valve. There is no need to remove the top and tip the tank. You just open the valve and the collected water drains in a flash. One vacuum is even equipped with a built-in pump. You attach a garden hose to the vacuum and as you suction water, it pumps the collected water to a remote location.

Modern wet/dry vacuums are equipped with excellent filters. Most models are outfitted with pleated paper single stage rinseable / reusable filters. If you intend to vacuum fireplace ashes, drywall dust, or other fine material you may want to upgrade to a two stage filter. These filters prevent the interior dust storms you and I used to create with older wet/dry vacuums.

New wet/dry vacuums are made to ingest large volumes of water. High quality vacuums are equipped with automatic shutoff devices that tell you when the drum is filled with water. If you intend to vacuum water only, you should remove the filter. Never use a wet/dry vacuum to pick up any flammable liquid or water that is contaminated with solvents. Vapors can ignite and create an explosion or fire.

Always keep the filter clean and in place when vacuuming dry debris or damp debris. You can easily ruin the powerful electric motors if you use a wet/dry vacuum without a filter in place. It is always a good practice to have a new filter in stock in the event you can't adequately clean your existing one or it wears out. Filters are inexpensive and a clean one will prolong the life of a high quality vacuum practically indefinitely.

When you turn on your new vacuum, you will be shocked at how quiet the new models are. Some models come with mufflers that allow you to direct the motor exhaust in several directions. You will also be amazed at the expanded line of accessories. You can purchase inflater nozzles for beach balls, air mattresses, etc. Special narrow car nozzles fit into tight places, hose grips reduce hand fatigue, and hairpin turn gutter elbows allow you to blow leaves from gutters while standing on the ground!

Some wet/dry vacuums can be hooked up to a nifty dust collection network for home shops. Clear rigid plastic pipe allows you to see dust and wood chips scoot to the vacuum. This is an excellent way to keep dust to a minimum if you use a table saw, miter box saw, radial arm saw, sander or any other woodworking tool indoors. I can assure you that the person who dusts around your home will appreciate this feature!

Click here to watch a video on two types of wet dry shop vacuums.

Column 259

Sheet Vinyl Woes

Posted on September 23, 2003 by Tim Carter

These are actual flooring installation manuals published by the flooring manufacturers. They contain specific step-by-step instructions as well as exact products to use that compliment the flooring.

DEAR TIM: Three months ago, I had a new sheet vinyl floor installed. There are stains that seem to be deep within the vinyl and several seams are cracking. What's more, there seem to be spongy spots in the floor when I walk in certain places. The flooring was installed by a friend who is a serious do-it-yourselfer. He installed a new underlayment. Do you think the problems are his fault? How can I keep the floor looking great? Sandy J., Roseburg, OR

DEAR SANDY: Uh Oh... You are probably going to have to make an uncomfortable phone call. There is a very good possibility that all of your current problems can be traced to workmanship or unapproved material usage errors. I think you are going to be forced to do an autopsy on the floor to discover the source of the problems.

Sheet vinyl flooring requires a tremendous amount of skill and training to be installed properly. The major sheet vinyl manufacturers offer extensive factory training for full time professional installers. In addition, they have detailed instruction guides and specifications for each of their flooring products. If these are not followed you can have all of the problems you described and more! I'll bet that your friend made several critical boo-boos.

There are numerous types of underlayment that can go beneath sheet vinyl. Some are approved while others are not. These products must be completely clean and free of any ink, factory stamps, paints, etc. before they are covered with the vinyl. Sheet vinyl manufacturers publish what underlayments can be used with their products. You must check the list because not all approved underlayments can be used with each sheet vinyl!

The spongy areas of your floor might be traced to sub-standard or unapproved underlayment. I have seen many lumber yards sell overlay grade lauan plywood for sheet vinyl underlayment. The only lauan plywood that is accepted by most sheet vinyl manufacturers is Type 1 - Exterior Grade. A better underlayment would be poplar or birch plywood with a fully sanded face and exterior glue.

Poor quality underlayment can have hollow spots in between the veneer face layers. This might be the cause of the sponginess in your floor. Other poor quality underlayments contain water soluble colored extractive chemicals. These dyes might be causing your deep seated stains.

Sheet vinyl discoloration can sometimes be traced to the use of unapproved adhesives. Chemicals within the glues that hold down the vinyl can leach into the flooring and cause color changes and stains. Old adhesives left on existing floors can also react with new adhesives and create stains. The sheet vinyl written instructions tell you what adhesives should be used and what old adhesives require complete or partial removal. Poor quality floor mats, heat from floor registers, radiators and direct sunlight can also discolor new sheet vinyl flooring.

The seam failure you are beginning to experience can be traced to numerous errors. Sheet vinyl products require very specific seam adhesives and sealers. Off the shelf seaming products often are unapproved. The right products can almost always be found at the location where the sheet vinyl is purchased.

To keep a new sheet vinyl floor looking good, you must keep grit and dirt off the floor. These particles react with foot traffic to make human sandpaper. Regular vacuuming or dust mopping must become part of your housekeeping schedule. Wet mopping will also do a great job of removing grit if you frequently change the rinse water.

Companion Articles: Common Sheet Vinyl Problems, Sheet Vinyl Defects

Column 260

Play Sets – Fun and Dangerous

Posted on September 23, 2003 by Tim Carter

261 backyard wooden swing set play set

DEAR TIM: I have decided to build an outdoor activity center for my children. After looking at some of these at stores I am really discouraged at the installed price. I have a small budget of $900.00 and am quite handy. Do you think I can build a nifty play set for this kind of money. Do you have any design guidelines that might help me? Becky T., Winchester, KY

DEAR BECKY: I think you can tackle a project like this if you have some general construction knowledge. You will need an extra hand from time to time, but for the most part, it is a one person job. If you build a play set like mine, you will be able to stay $100.00 under your budget. I feel it may take you about 30 to 50 hours worth of work to build what I have in mind.

The key to this project is to think small. Kids love spaces that are in proportion to their bodies. Their arms, legs, and hands are smaller too. You need to keep this in mind as you build ladders, railings and other grab bars. Ceiling heights should not exceed 6 feet if you want them to feel comfortable in their new clubhouse/fort/vacation home.

I built a combination swing set with slide, first story playhouse with a second story lookout post/fort that my kids are continuing to enjoy. The fort has a steep pitched shingle roof with a plexiglass panel skylight. A climbing rope and trapeze beam are also part of the structure. A fireman's pole is going to be added this spring.

The swing set design needs to be right if you want safety and lots of glee from your kids. The bottom of the beam that supports the swings should be a minimum of 10 feet from the ground. This provides a generous radius for each swing. Use medium grade zinc chromate coated chains that will easily support the weight of an adult. The chains need to be connected to eye bolts that pass completely through the overhead beam. Do not use lag type bolts as they can pull out over time.

My playhouse measures four feet wide by six feet long. It has an interior ceiling height of 6 feet. There is one door and three windows in the walls. Directly above the playhouse is a second story lookout post/fort. It is built just like a deck with a 36 inch high pickets spaced on 5 inch centers. You access this fort outpost by scaling a vertical ladder attached to one side of the playhouse.

The lookout post/fort is covered by a shingled roof that protects the defenders from direct sunlight, rain, or incoming mud balls. The bottom of the roof is just four feet from the lookout post floor. This allows occupants adequate protection from the elements and projectiles.

The four foot wide end of the second story closest to the swing set opens to a platform at the top of the slide. This small platform is one step down from the second story level. It is surround by a safety railing. This same platform is the access point of the future fireman's pole that will be opposite the slide.

The large 4 by 6 inch beam that supports the three swings is supported at one by the playhouse structure. The other end is supported by two angled A frame 4x4 inch posts that are sunk into the ground. If you don't desire to dig angled holes for these posts, you can prevent the bottom of the 4x4 inch posts from spreading apart by using two horizontal 2x6 members that are through bolted into the bottom of the A frame posts.

Be sure to through bolt all structural connections. Lag bolts can loosen over time and pull out as kids stress the structure with swinging, climbing, and jumping. Periodically check the nuts and bolts and tighten as necessary. Always check in the spring before play activity begins and once again in mid-summer. You will be surprised how wear and tear will loosen play set hardware.

Author's Notes: June, 1999

When this column appeared in April, 1999 in the St. Petersburg Times, it was seen by one of the nation's top experts on playground equipment. He quickly contacted me to tell me that the set I had built for my daughter had glaring safety defects - some of them that could cause a fatality. One problem that I knew of from the beginning involved the slide. It does not have a radius landing and simply dumps the rider into the dirt. This can cause cracked or bruised tail bones! I simply could not afford a safe plastic slide when I built my play set. I recommend you purchase an approved slide if you build a set.

I had developed a set of plans of my own play set that I was selling to the public. Based upon the expert's comments, I suspended the sale of the plans. Even though the plans included all sorts of caveats and disclaimers, I didn't want to be held responsible in the event a child got hurt.

The Builder Bulletin that follows this column contains several photos of my play set - green algae and all! If you decide to build one, be on notice that the play set contains all sorts of hazards!

Every time a kid gets hurt or killed on even the safest play set, the experts learn more. A new weak link in the design is exposed. If you don't want to take any chances, then I suggest you don't let your kids play. You can also wrap them head to toe in 3 or 4 layers of sheets of plastic that have sealed bubbles of air (of course they will then suffocate or die of heat stroke). The point is this: Having fun usually involves risk. If you build my play set or one like it, then be prepared to roll the dice.

Column 261

Geothermal Energy

Posted on September 23, 2003 by Tim Carter

Your heating and cooling system loves outdoor conditions where the air temperature is in the 50 - 55F range. Imagine if your HVAC system had access to these temperatures 24 / 7? It can if you bury a large plastic loop in the ground and this loop is filled with a liquid that then connects to your HVAC system!

DEAR TIM: I am looking for an environmentally friendly heating and cooling system for my home. My fuel choices are limited and it appears I have to use a heat pump to achieve my goal. Are there other options out there? I have heard that you can use heat from the soil around you house. Is this true and if so, how is it done? Veronica T., Tifton, GA

DEAR VERONICA: You are right on target. If you combine the technology of heat pumps with the nearly constant temperature of the soil under your lot, you can save money and help preserve resources for our future generations. In my opinion you are a perfect candidate for the expanding use and acceptance of geothermal heat pumps. What's more, the Environmental Protection Agency and the Department of Energy are currently promoting this technology through their Earth Comfort Program.

Geothermal heat pumps transfer heat to and from the soil under your lot. Conventional heat pumps do the exact same thing except they transfer the heat to and from outside air. If you decide that a geo-thermal system makes sense for you, there will be no unsightly and noisy outdoor equipment.

Geothermal systems are quiet and compact. Often all of the equipment fits into one metal cabinet. When operating in the heat mode, the temperature of the air floating from the ducts is around 110 F. This is much more comfortable than the "cool" air that tends to waft from traditional heat pumps.

One type of geothermal system extracts or sends heat to the soil via a buried loop of durable plastic tubing. The tubing contains a liquid similar to automobile anti-freeze. Because soil temperatures below the level that frost penetrates often are constant through the year, it is not uncommon to find soil temperatures near 55 F in most parts of the USA. This is very nearly the perfect temperature at which heat pump technology will operate at maximum efficiency.

When you need heat in your home the solution inside the closed loop delivers heat from the soil to the indoor unit. The heat is extracted from the closed loop solution. Once the loop solution gives up all of its heat, it is pumped through the loop. The chilled solution begins to get warm again as it travels back towards the house. When you need air conditioning in your home the exact same process happens, only backwards. The heat transfer is extremely efficient. During the heating season you might experience savings of 40 to 70 percent and savings of 30 to 60 percent while using your air conditioner. Dense clay soils work best for geothermal heating and cooling systems. Dry, sandy soils transfer heat poorly. Wet, sandy soils are superb!

The buried loop in the soil can be done one of two ways. Relatively shallow horizontal loops can be used on larger lots with greater surface area. Vertical tubes are drilled for small lots. If you have a medium or large pond on your property that does not freeze solid in the winter you are really in luck. You can simply place the plastic tubing loop in the bottom of the pond for maximum heat transfer possibilities. Some people adjacent to large underground water sources can tap this resource and use it to heat and cool their homes.

The geothermal mechanical equipment used to heat and cool your home costs virtually the same as conventional heat pumps. You will experience added costs when you install the underground plastic loop piping. The current average cost is about $900 per ton of cooling load. This works out to about an up-charge of $3,150 (3.5 tons of cooling) for the average home.

Because of the deregulation of the electric utility industry many utility companies are offering rebates or other incentives to homeowners who choose to use geothermal heating and cooling systems. Existing homes as well as new ones can adapt to this eco-friendly technology. New technology is being developed that allows the loop piping to be installed with minimal disturbance to existing lawns and landscaping.

Author's Notes:

November, 2003

Geothermal systems work best in moderate climates. For example, those who live in the boundary between the South and the Midwest can really extract savings from the soil. People who can place the loops in a large pond or lake can also achieve maximum benefits. The soil type, depth of winter frost penetration and assorted other factors will determine how much money a geothermal system will save for you over the long haul.

Tim Carter

Column 262

Log Homes

Posted on September 23, 2003 by Tim Carter

Log home - log cabin

DEAR TIM: My husband and I have made up our minds. We are going to have a log home built for us. We don't want this dream home to turn into a nightmare. What should we look for in a log home builder? How do you know if the logs are OK? Do log homes need to be treated with preservatives of any type? Help us make a good choice! Lisa M., Moss Bluff, FL

DEAR LISA: Congratulations on your exciting new project! There is nothing quite like a log structure. They telegraph all sorts of feelings to me. Among them are warmth, stability, strength, simplicity and practicality. A log home built in the right setting will be the envy of everyone in your community. Tens of thousands of people move into new log homes each year. You are going to be in fine company.

Log homes were not the first homes built by Europeans who settled in the USA. The first arrivals off the boats made crude huts and slept in roofed over pits. The industrious Germans and Scandinavians who settled the Delaware Bay region in 1638 built the first American log structures. Many people just like you have recognized that log homes make wonderful primary residences. You get the feel of being on vacation year round when you relax at night in a cozy log home.

When you select a builder for your log home, you want experience. Find a builder who has built log homes for at least three to five years. Make sure that he purchases his log structures from a manufacturer who is a member in good standing of one of the national or international log home associations. Get the names of three or four past customers - especially ones who have been living in their homes for at least 3 years. Visit these people and ask if they have had any problems and how they were addressed. You do not want to be a lab rat for a first or second time log home builder.

The most important aspect of log home construction is the actual design. Logs that are protected from sunlight and rain by large overhangs and porches will resist rot and decay. Logs need protection from splashing water caused by roof runoff or snow melt. Pay attention to prevailing winds. Try to orient the structure so that the most frequent wind driven rains have a hard time hitting the logs. Hold the foundation out of the ground and slope the earth rapidly away from the home. This will keep the lower logs away from moist soil.

The logs that are used for your home must be certified and graded. The different associations created standards in 1984 that allow independent third party companies to sort and classify logs into three basic categories from lowest to highest: utility grade, wall grade, and header grade.

The structural design of the home is critical as well. You must make sure that the builder and the log home manufacturer know about log shrinkage. Log homes built with green logs can shrink dramatically. They can actually drop up to four inches for every eight feet in height. Kiln dried logs are not immune to shrinkage. They can shrink about one and one half inches in eight feet. 60 percent of this shrinkage is due to moisture loss while the remainder is due to the weight of the entire house bearing down on the logs. Windows and doors can bind and floors can heave if the builder does not compensate for this movement. In extreme cases window glass can break or pop unexpectedly.

The exterior of your log home needs to be treated with a penetrating synthetic resin water repellent. Avoid using water sealants that contain natural oils like linseed, vegetable, or tung oil. These products are food sources for fungi, mildew and algae. Be sure that the sealant you choose is not a film forming product. These will peel over time and the restoration cost will quickly make you feel like you have entered the Twilight Zone!

If you are looking for a book with invaluable information on tools and materials, detailed drawings and insightful text then Building the Alaska Log Home is it! This 175 plus page book is packed full of glossy color photographs and illustrations telling you everything you need to know about building with logs. Designed for the neophyte cabin builder, this book details, step by step, construction of log buildings, complete from turning trees into logs to the first fire in the wood stove. This book will really help you decide if a log cabin is right for you.

If you are like me you have dreamed of owning a home away from home. Imagine when the weekend comes, hanging out in a hammock at your own lakefront cottage, boating, antiquing in a charming little town, or whiling away an afternoon on your ocean-view porch. If you have imagined these things you need Better Homes and Gardens Second Home. This inspiring volume will help you turn your second-home fantasy into the real thing. This book will take you through tours of gorgeous homes to see how other people have created their own great escapes. Even though this book addresses cottages, there are expert tips on everything from real estate shopping to building, remodeling, and decorating that can help you. There are hundreds of spectacular color photographs of beautiful homes and great locations.

If you are looking for a great book on energy efficient homes then Energy - Efficient Houses is the book for you. This book is a collection of past articles that appeared in Fine Homebuilding magazine. Wait until you check out the glossy color photographs! They are spectacular. They are crisp, colorful and show you details that are tough to describe with words. The articles show how designers and builders have incorporated energy - efficient considerations into their creations. You'll see energy - efficient houses built for hot climates and cold climates, wet climates and dry climates. You'll find houses built in both traditional and modern styles. You'll learn about materials and techniques that can make a major difference in how much energy it takes to make your home comfortable. In, short, you'll discover that the house of your dreams can be built as an energy - efficient home. You must buy a copy of Energy - Efficient Houses, a neat hardback book published by Taunton Press.

Companion Articles: Log Homes & Sealers, Log Home Associations

Column 263

Why struggle with regular sized shovels!

What finishes are available on smaller shovels?

Get the right shovel for the right job!

What is a post hole digger?

Expert Advice For Your Home