Plywood and OSB

Posted on by Tim Carter

Plywood vs OSB
DEAR TIM: I am getting ready to build a new home and wonder about the difference between traditional plywood and the newer oriented strand board (OSB). Is one better than the other? Is my builder using OSB to save money? Are there special precautions one should take after installing either product or can they get wet on repeated occasions? What about cost? Harvey R., Marshall, MI

DEAR HARVEY: I'll bet the same sort of consternation existed when plywood was introduced years ago as a substitute for solid wood sheathing. The passage of time and success stories from millions of installations have clearly shown plywood to be a proven performer. Production figures indicate that OSB has finally been accepted by builders, remodelers and homeowners. OSB manufacturers produced 26 million square feet of OSB this year (2006). In comparison, plywood manufacturers only produced 16 million square feet of plywood.

In many ways plywood and OSB are virtually identical. But in many respects they are quite different. Possibly the most important thing to realize is that when each product is manufactured according to strict guidelines and standards, they both exhibit superior strength and long term performance properties. You can count on both plywood and OSB for strength and stability as long as your builder follows all installation recommendations and purchases the right product from the start.

Plywood is made by shaving thin strips or plys of veneer from logs. Over 70 different species of trees can be used in plywood. After the veneer has been dried and graded, adhesive is applied to the wood strips. Each layer of veneer is oriented at 90 degrees to the one just above or below it. The glued pieces of veneer are then placed in a hot press. The heat and pressure allow the glue to penetrate deeply into the wood fibers producing a lasting bond. The layering or cross lamination of the plys is vital as it gives the plywood superior strength and stiffness. The cross layering also minimizes expansion, contraction and eliminates splitting.

OSB is made in the basically the exact same fashion. Instead of using large sheets of solid wood veneer, thousands of 3 and 4 inch long strands of solid wood are combined to make each sheet of OSB. High technology manufacturing equipment has the ability to orient the strands so they overlap and interlock at a 90 degree angle. Each strand of wood is completely coated with a high performance resin glue. After the OSB leaves the hot press, you have a structural engineered wood product that maximizes our natural resources and has superior high strength characteristics.

OSB Plywood

 

Rain falls on many, many homes as they are being built. In fact, rain storms left standing puddles of water on my own home's plywood sub-floors for days. The plywood was not affected long term because I used the right grade. Make sure that you use plywood or OSB that is stamped EXPOSURE 1. This labeling is your guarantee that waterproof resins and glues were used to bond together the wood. EXPOSURE 1 plywood and OSB are made to withstand repeated rainfall with little or no damage during a normal time frame construction project. To prevent rot and loss of strength, they must be allowed to dry and then have permanent protection from moisture. If you want plywood or OSB that can be permanently exposed to weather and rain, then purchase those products that bear the EXTERIOR stamp or label.

Some OSB panels react differently from plywood when they get wet. When OSB is manufactured the cut edges are sealed with a special waterproof paint. Carpenters destroy the watertight integrity of OSB each time they make a cut that exposes wood fiber edges. These cut edges are prone to swelling after they get wet. It is possible to seal these edges after they are cut, but it may be tough to find a carpenter willing to take the time to perform this extra step.

Lumber products are true commodities. Prices of these products can fluctuate wildly with changes in supply and demand. Currently where I live the prices of plywood versus OSB are very close. A piece of one half inch plywood that a builder would use on a roof or a sidewall only costs $1.02 more than a similar piece of OSB. A sheet of 3/4 inch sub-floor plywood costs just $4.38 more than the same sized piece of OSB. If you desire to use plywood on your new home, the extra cost may only be several hundred dollars.

Column 304

Custom Woodwork – Easy to Find!

Posted on by Tim Carter
custom woodwork

Custom Woodwork

DEAR TIM: I just visited several lumber companies and home center stores. The selection of wood work trim for baseboards, door and window casings, and crown moldings were just average. All of the molding profiles match what I see everywhere. I am looking for unique molding profiles and possibly ones that I have ideas for. I also desire solid wood moldings, not finger jointed pieces. Can it be made? Is it expensive? Where do you find woodwork like this? Kit R., Boulder, CO

DEAR KIT: I see that you are another person who is not pleased with the plain vanilla selection offered by many lumber yards and home centers. Certain molding profiles seem to be everywhere. I can remember back 20 years ago when a majority of new homes used the colonial profile. Prior to that ranch casings and baseboard were the rage. Personalized, unique, and custom wood work is readily available in many cities and towns.

All of the woodwork in my own home was custom milled. My wife drew the profiles and cross sections of how she wanted each piece of woodwork. She made sure that all of the different pieces complimented one another. Certain aspects of one piece of woodwork can be found duplicated or reflected in another. Many visitors to our home "Ooooo!" and "Ahhhh!" within minutes after seeing the woodwork and some of the specialty pieces of trim in our home.

The plain vanilla woodwork you see at the lumberyard and home centers is created on the same machine that makes custom woodwork. The mills that create woodwork have industrial shaping machines that generate woodwork moldings from flat pieces of solid wood stock. The only thing that differentiates the woodwork being created is the cutting knife that is inserted into the machine. The cutting knives are made from special hardened steel and can cut thousands of linear feet of woodwork with little effort or the need to be re-sharpened. It is not uncommon for a shaping machine to mill 1,000 or more linear feet of molding in just one hour.

The finger jointed woodwork you see is actually very environmentally friendly. Lumber mills take short scrap pieces of high quality trim lumber and glue them together. The finger joint is used to make the glue joint strong. Finger jointed trim is a good choice for woodwork that is to be painted. I would refrain from using it for trim that will be stained. The finger jointing process mixes pieces of wood with different grain. This makes for an unacceptable natural wood look in my opinion.

Custom milled woodwork is often not that expensive. The special knives that will be made to turn your ideas into reality cost on average about $150 apiece. This usually includes the setup charge to operate the shaping machine. You then just add the cost of the lumber that is going to be used for your trim. Oak, walnut, maple or cherry hardwood trim will of course be very expensive. If you intend to paint your woodwork, you can get very affordable paint grade poplar lumber. Poplar is a durable wood that mills with exceedingly crisp details. That is what I have used in my own home.

custom woodwork

The cost of custom milled woodwork drops dramatically as you have more made. Since the cost of running the shaping machine for a plain vanilla profile is the exact same as a custom profile, the only up-charge is the cost of the custom knife and the difference in price of the lumber you choose to use. Always be sure to order at least 100 linear feet more trim than your project needs. Mistakes, changes and other problems may create a need for extra trim. You want to avoid additional shaping machine setup charges.

Many of the lumber yards you visited have connections with architectural woodwork mills that produce custom woodwork. In certain cities and towns, individual people have the ability to create custom woodwork from small shops or even their own homes. Contact the salespeople at the lumber yards who deal with custom builders and remodelers. These salespeople know exactly where to get custom woodwork produced. You can also look under the Woodworking heading in your Yellow Pages.

Column 305

Do It Yourself – Sweat Equity

Posted on by Tim Carter
sweat equity

Nailing blocking into walls is a simple task.

DEAR TIM: My husband and I are building a new home soon. What sorts of things do you think we can do in order to take advantage of sweat equity? For instance, we have asked the builder not to lay the sod, because my husband likes to do landscape work. We are not interested in doing any heavy duty work, however, we would like to know what things are acceptable so that we may present the builder with these additional options. Laura W., Kansas City, MO

DEAR LAURA: I think this is a very smart idea that can turn into some serious savings. Finding the builder that will allow you to work side by side with him is going to be the hardest part. Seasoned builders will often shy away from sweat equity participation because they are afraid that you might not complete your part of the job(s) on time. If this happens, the delay(s) can impact the builders schedule and his profitability.

The best way to approach sweat equity jobs is to treat them like a real job. This means work at the job site from 7:30 a.m. until the late afternoon. This often means that you must use vacation days from your regular day job. If you try to work at your house during your off hours or on weekends, you will find that your productivity will often be less than 100 percent. Not only that, your performance at your regular day job may suffer if you work extended hours at your new home.

Your planning skills must also be sharp. You need to create written lists of all the tools and materials you need and have them assembled before you start your tasks. You can't afford delays of any type since other sub-contractors who work for the builder are relying on you to get your work completed.

If your local utility companies allow it, you should be able to easily install your telephone and cable TV cables. There is a good chance that you can install the rough alarm system wiring. It is quite likely that you can install a central vacuum system. The plastic piping is simple to fabricate and many manufacturers have excellent step-by-step guidelines.

I think you are also able to install the garage door opener. This is a great project that requires minimal tools. Simply make sure the electrician installs an outlet at the right location in the garage ceiling and that you install any low voltage wiring required to operate remote push buttons that activate the opener. I'll bet that you are able to install simple garage shelving. This is a simple sweat equity job that can often be complete in several hours. If you are ambitious, consider installing a storage loft in the garage.

If your new house includes a simple deck, consider tackling this job. Decks often can be completed over a period of weekends and not affect the work schedules of others. Be sure you build the deck according to all local codes. Treat the decking with a synthetic water repellent before you attach it to the joist system.

An often overlooked sweat equity job that you must do is blocking. Blocking consists of pieces of rough lumber installed between wall studs at strategic locations. Screws used to attach handrails, towel bars, shower and bath handicap grab bars, mirrors, large paintings, wall hooks, cloths and drapery rods, etc. bite into these pieces of lumber instead of the air found behind most new house drywall. After the blocking is in place, take photos of it before it is covered up. If your house has a crawl space, you can easily install a high performance vapor barrier that will eliminate musty odors in your new home.

Surely you are capable of installing your mailbox, house numbers, and closet shelves and clothes rods. You might also get a credit for performing extensive clean-up work each weekend. Scrap lumber, debris, etc. needs to be cleaned up on a routine basis and you are a perfect candidate. You can also protect the inside and outside of all window and door glass with sheet plastic so that you sweat less while cleaning them just before you move in!

A great book that is loaded with sweat equity jobs that the average to serious do-it-yourselfer can handle is Adding Value to your Home. In this book you'll learn do-it-yourself projects that add value to your house and yard while saving you money. This book gives a clear idea about what type of home - improvement projects will give the highest yield on investments. It is also written for those homeowners who need the basic skills instruction, clearly explaining step - by - step what to do as well as how to do it. The the illustrations and photos in this book are just fabulous.

Column 306

Vinyl Tile Choices

Posted on by Tim Carter
vinyl tile

This isn't wood - it's vinyl tile!

DEAR TIM: I need a new flooring material for my kitchen, laundry room, and hallway. It needs to be virtually waterproof and easy to care for. In addition, I would really like it to be attractive, low cost, do-it-yourself friendly. Is there such a material? I was leaning towards the durable vinyl tiles I see in grocery stores, but I am turned off by the commercial look. Surely you have an alternative. Shelly A., Sarasota, FL

DEAR SHELLY: Let's see if I have it - attractive, low maintenance, waterproof, low cost and DIY friendly. Is that all? Are you sure you remembered everything? Your instincts are right on target because vinyl tile is the solution. You simply need to see the unbelievable new tiles, styles, and shapes. You can now install vinyl tile floors that will take your breath away. They are absolutely magnificent.

Vinyl tile, especially those that are 1/8 inch thick, are extremely durable and waterproof. The average vinyl tile commercial store floor may get one hundred to one thousand times more foot traffic per day than you would ever create in your house. When properly cared for, the vinyl tile floors in a typical residential home can be maintained to look as good as new for long periods of time. The tiles themselves are unaffected by water. The new adhesives that hold the tiles to concrete or wood underlayments are extremely water resistant.

I am getting ready to install vinyl tile in my own basement activity room where my kids will play. My wife and I have selected a vinyl tile that is unbelievable. It looks exactly like a wood strip floor. It is so realistic that when you stand on it, only a trained professional can tell it is not wood. Part of this illusion is created by the shape of the pieces. The flooring is not 12 inch by 12 inch square tiles. They are 3 inch wide by 36 inch long planks! When you install the planks in a random fashion by staggering the seams, it looks exactly like a wood strip floor.

The vinyl planks come in 20 different wood species, types and colors. They have a satin urethane finish that imparts incredible scuff and dirt resistance. By using two or three different wood species types, you can create an inlaid border look around the perimeter of the room. If you want the look of a larger wood plank, you can even buy 4.5 inch wide strips. The edges of all planks are micro-ground by precision equipment so that the when they are installed, the floor appears seamless.

Some manufacturers have vinyl tiles that simulate the look of the most expensive inlaid wood floors. Each tile has three components: a small square simulated wood corner block, a light strip of simulated wood on two edges, and the remainder of the tile is a simulated rich, burled wood. When you install the tiles in the recommend pattern, you create the look of a floor you might find in the library of an English castle or mansion.

vinly tile marble look

This vinyl tile can fool a marble buyer.

If you don't want the wood look, perhaps marble tile might be of interest to you. You can now purchase vinyl tiles that will fool just about everyone who enters your home. The most elegant floor spaces are created by combining two or three different colors. The vinyl manufacturers have at least 30 other geometric styles, solid colors, and attractive patterns that will amaze you. I am quite sure you will find a color and pattern that will please you.

Once your floor is installed, it is easy to keep it looking perfect. The trick is to simply keep grit and dirt off the floor. If you walk on this material it acts like sandpaper. Sweep the floor regularly and wash it with a damp mop. You can maintain the satin or high gloss finish by purchasing clear coatings made by the manufacturers. These rapid drying products are easy to apply when the floor is clean.

Column 307

Kitchen Lighting – Mix It Up

Posted on by Tim Carter
kitchen lighting

Indirect lighting adds elegance and character to any kitchen.

DEAR TIM: I want my new kitchen lighting to be dramatic, functional and different. To make it a challenge for you, I am on a tight budget. Do you have some ideas that will give me what I am looking for? Do you think a ceiling fan is a good idea in kitchen? Sally M., Bolivar, TN

DEAR SALLY: The only challenging thing about this project is the planning aspect. I am quite certain I can deliver on all of your requests. If you are lucky enough to have a nine foot tall ceiling in the kitchen area, the end result is going to take your breath away.

The importance of kitchen lighting is often overlooked. All too often a builder or remodeler will just install a series of recessed lights and/or some surface fixtures to fulfill the need for general purpose lighting. The modern kitchen is often much more than just a work area. It can be a quiet area where you relax by yourself, a space where two people casually talk and get to know one another, or it can be an anteroom that is used to support activities in an adjacent space. An assortment of lighting types will allow you to maximize the mood in your kitchen no matter what you use it for.

I feel the most dramatic look you can achieve in a kitchen is to mix indirect lighting with direct lighting. Indirect lighting is created by hiding the light source from view. The light produced by the hidden fixture bounces off a ceiling or a wall and produces a warm glow that adds enormous amounts of atmosphere if done just right. The light fixtures can be hidden on top of or under wall cabinets or they can be installed in open troughs or layered ceiling areas that surround the entire kitchen space. Open soffits can be installed in a room with an eight foot ceiling height, but they look best if the ceiling is nine or even ten feet tall.

Direct lighting is achieved by using conventional recessed lights, surface lights or light fixtures that are on a pendant or chain. Many ceiling fans can be equipped with decorative light fixtures as well. These types of lights work well to provide bright lighting for work surfaces and general purpose lighting in the kitchen area.

To maximize the power and decorative effect of all of the lights you need to wire and switch them independently. Different sets of lights need to have separate controls so that you can add or delete layers of light as you would peel layers of skin from an onion.

For example, a ribbon of rope lights concealed in an open soffit that surrounds the entire kitchen can be the sole source of indirect light. Have this single light source on its own switch. Four or six small recessed lights in the central part of the kitchen ceiling may provide the next layer of light. Additional recessed lights that wash all of the countertops can be the third stage of light. A traditional surface mount fixture in the center of the room can provide the final boost of light energy when the kitchen needs to be at its brightest.

Ceiling fans in kitchen spaces are an excellent idea. Not only can they be a functional fixture, but they also can be a highly decorative item as well. I have a fan in my kitchen and it is a workhorse. During warmer weather it produces a gentle stream of cool air that keeps the cook, my wife Kathy, very happy. I use it every time I mop the floor. The air stream dries the floor before the cats or kids track up the floor.

If you decide to install a ceiling fan, make sure that you keep recessed fixtures away from it. If a fan blade passes underneath a light fixture, it can create a very annoying stroboscopic light effect. I like to keep recessed light fixtures at least 9 inches away from the edge of any of the fan blades. If you can maintain 12 inches clearance, that is even better.

Rope lighting and small recessed lights are budget friendly. A 20 foot long rope light and eight recessed lights with attractive trims can be purchased for about $300. If anything is going to break the budget it will be the ceiling fan. In case you can't afford the one you want, go ahead and install the approved ceiling fan electrical box and cable that will power it. Place a flush cover plate over the ceiling box and start saving your money and watch for sales or rebate offers.

Wiring A HouseIf you are looking for a great book for installing simple wall lights, to running wire in new construction and in existing walls and ceilings, then Wiring a House is the book for you. With its wealth of practical know-how this book, written by a master electrician, is sure to become an indispensable reference for anyone who wants a common sense guide to residential electricity. The black and white photos and illustrations featured in this book are clear, crisp and easy to understand. You must buy a copy of Wiring a House, a great hardback book published by Taunton Press.

Old Electrical WiringIf you are looking for a book with invaluable information on tools and materials, detailed instructions for how to repair or replace wiring in old buildings and bring them up to code then you need a copy of Old Electrical Wiring. This 400 plus page book tells you everything you could ever imagine about switch layouts, troubleshooting, and design change. It also has an extensive glossary of old wiring terms and slang. Packed with drawings and illustrations, including pictures of old devices, this practical book will tell you whether an old electrical system should be torn out or repaired. This book will really help you.

Electrical Wiring ResidentialHere's a complete, full-color guide to all aspects of residential wiring. Electrical Wiring Residential is another must have book. It's everything anyone could need to know, from wiring a lighting branch circuit, to installing a service entrance or installing lights in a swimming pool. It is loaded with examples, wiring diagrams, spectacular photos and illustrations explaining all the 1999 NEC requirements. This book is easy to read and understand, yet has all the instructions and details needed to perform virtually any residential wiring job properly.

Column 308

Retractable Window Screens

Posted on by Tim Carter
retractable window screens

Retractable screens improve your view and let in more light. This popular column was shared in Tim's June 6, 2021 Newsletter.

DEAR TIM: Spring is here and the bugs around my house are a nuisance. I have traditional full panel screens that I leave in place year round.

They're hard to clean, block the view when dirty, and are in bad shape. Is there an alternative?

While I was walking past a booth at a recent home and garden show I could have sworn I saw a retractable screen that worked like a traditional window blind. Was I dreaming? If not, do these things really work? Debbie S., Kettering, OH

DEAR DEBBIE: You were not dreaming, not by a long shot.

Disappearing Window Screens!

Window screens that disappear when not needed are available. What's so fascinating is that they are by no means a new product. They have a rich history and have been around for 75 years. It is amazing to me that this wonderful window option is not offered by more window companies as part of the original window installation.

Free & Fast BIDS

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local window screen companies that can install retractable disappearing screens!

Full view fixed window screens attach to windows in many different ways. Some attach on the inside of the house while others fit the outside frame of the window. Fixed screens that are in the inside of a house can block some beautiful trim elements of the window. Those that fit on the exterior of windows can do the same. Exterior screens, in my experience, seem to get dirty at a much faster rate than those that fit indoors.

Not only do screens block bugs from entering your house but they also block a considerable amount of natural light from entering. Many standard window screens can block up to 20 percent of sunlight from entering indoors. This may not seem like a big number until you do a quick experiment. If you have two windows that are side by side, temporarily remove the screen from one window to see the difference!

Retractable screens solve lots of problems. They stop bugs just like any other fixed window screen. In addition, they can be retracted when not needed. This allows you to enjoy the view of the great outdoors without anything blocking your vision. If you operate air conditioning on days when the temperature and humidity make it stifling indoors, you can quickly retract the screen. As soon as the weather cooperates and you want to let Mother Nature ventilate your home, simply pull the screen into position. It is that simple. While the screens are retracted, they can't get dirty.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local window screen companies that can install retractable disappearing screens!

Almost all of the retractable screens are housed in a sleek housing that fits snugly in the top of the window opening. Because the screen housing is only a few inches in height, they rarely block the view out of the window. When pulled into place, some screens are held in place by snap clips while other ones are secured by magnets. A spring mechanism within the housing provides the necessary tension to make the screen fit snugly across the opening.

CLICK HERE to SEE Retractable Screens of all types.

Some retractable screens are available that only block 15 percent of natural light. The housings that hide the screens are available in different colors. White, dark brown, and almond are standard colors. Some installers offer custom colors that include black, forest green, a handsome beige, and a deep grey. The plastic coated fiberglass screen is woven so that it is very strong and stops bugs, but yet allows an enormous amount of air to pass through the window opening.

I need to warn you. If you decide to install these wonderful retractable screens as I intend to do, be aware that they are made to fit on doorways as well. The housing that holds the screen is simply mounted on the side of the door jamb and the screen slides side to side instead of up and down like it will on your windows. Retractable screens are quite possibly the best kept secret that I know of!

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local window screen companies that can install retractable disappearing screens!

Column 319

Quality Dream Home Specifications

Posted on by Tim Carter
PVC water pipes

Plastic plumbing drain lines are noisy. Cast iron is a much better choice.

DEAR TIM: We bought a new builder's inventory house about six months ago. Now that we have been in the house, we have noticed all sorts of things that seem sub-standard. The floors are bouncy, the plumbing system is loud, the windows are drafty, etc. When we mention these things to the builder, he responds that the house was built to code and that we shouldn't expect perfection. We intend to build our dream home in several years. What can we do to avoid future disappointments? Kim Lee, Franklin, TN

DEAR KIM: I hear complaints like yours on a more frequent basis as each year passes. It is easy to get discouraged and think that the quality standards and craftsmanship of the entire construction industry is in a state of decline. The truth of the matter is there are still builders, tradespeople, and manufacturers who strive for perfection and try to do the best job possible on a routine basis. Unfortunately, I believe this group is a minority. To make matters worse, competition for sales and the creation of affordable housing for all segments of the marketplace often are the source of problems like yours.

The residential one and two family dwelling building code is a wonderful document. Over the years it has become more refined and detailed so that the consumer gets a better product. But keep in mind that the building code is a set of minimum standards. Frequently manufacturing and trade associations publish more stringent and detailed guidelines that exceed building code requirements. Sometimes it can be quite costly to build to a higher standard. But in many, many instances it doesn't cost that much to include different materials or labor practices that produce a finished house that will rarely disappoint a homeowner.

When you get ready to develop specifications for your dream home, consider the addition of inexpensive one half inch diameter steel bars to concrete sidewalks, driveways and patios. They will greatly enhance the strength of concrete and will help hold the concrete together when it cracks. If your house will include a basement, make sure the exterior of the foundation has a true waterproofing treatment, not the hot asphalt damp-proofing I see being installed on many foundations in my area. Consider extra height walls that produce taller finished basement ceilings.

How would you like me to build your new home? It's probably impossible for me to fit your job into my schedule, but I will gladly share hundreds of my tricks and building secrets with you and your builder. Check out my New House Specifications.

Your bouncy floors probably do meet code. If you want stiff, rigid floors, then you need to purchase joists that are wider or deeper. In other words, if your current house has 2x10 floor joists, then you might want to upgrade to 2x12 joists. You can also use engineered floor joists or floor trusses. To make sure the floors will be stiff, have a residential structural engineer verify your selection.

Plumbing system noise can be stifled by substituting cast iron for plastic in drainage pipes that handle water. To save money, the plumbing vent pipes and drainage piping below slabs can still be plastic. Water supply lines can be noisy if they are undersized. Consider increasing the size of the main feeder lines that deliver water to all fixture groups. Larger diameter pipes slow the velocity and minimize turbulence of water as it travels towards a sink, toilet, or shower. Simple fiberglass sound insulation batts wrapped around the pipes that are hidden in walls and ceiling will also muffle noise.

Not all windows meet voluntary industry standards. Purchase windows that carry the AAMA/NWWDA, or NFRC, or Energy Star label. Windows and doors can be the largest source of energy loss in the average home. You want to buy the best possible product for your dream home.

If you live in all but the driest parts of the nation and intend to use asphalt roofing, make sure you purchase algae resistant shingles. Have the roofer use 40 lb tin instead of 20 lb tin for all flashings. The high performance ice and wind blown rain barriers are excellent upgrades as well if your budget has room. Request that all face nailed exterior siding and trim be fastened with stainless steel nails instead of traditional galvanized nails.

To protect yourself completely, I urge you to obtain a copy of the residential building code. The new code is written so that it is easy to understand. It also contains many helpful diagrams and illustrations. It is in your best interest to monitor the construction process and match sections of the code to the building process. Although you are not a trained inspector or builder, you may be able to spot problems or deficiencies before they are hidden or become major problems that are expensive to correct.

A realistic and well-illustrated book for teaching basic skills needed to read, study and understand construction plans is Construction Print Reading. In this book you will find a Unit on Specifications. The sample specifications are well-organized but I don't necessarily agree with some of the technical aspects of some of them. For example, they have a sentence about concrete thickness. It states that driveways should be 4 inches thick. I feel the minimum thickness should be 5 inches. So, I suggest you use the book to give you the outline for the specs, but use my past columns and Builder Bulletins to provide you with the actual numerical value or level of quality for each area of the specifications.

If you are like me you have dreamed of owning a home away from home. Imagine when the weekend comes, hanging out in a hammock at your own lakefront cottage, boating, antiquing in a charming little town, or whiling away an afternoon on your ocean-view porch. If you have imagined these things you need Second Home: Find Your Place in the Fun (Better Homes and Gardens).

This inspiring volume will help you turn your second home fantasy into the real thing. This book will take you through tours of gorgeous homes to see how other people have created their own great escapes. There are expert tips on everything from real estate shopping to building, remodeling, and decorating. There are hundreds of spectacular color photographs of beautiful homes and great locations. As for me, I'll keep dreaming ... until those lottery numbers come through or some forgotten relative leaves an unexpected inheritance, the book will have to suffice.

Column 309

Magnetic Water Softeners

Posted on by Tim Carter

water softener

Magnetic Water Softeners

DEAR TIM: Our drinking water is hard. It tests out at 18 grains. Water spots and scale are a big problem. I realize that water softeners can take care of this problem, but I don't want the hassle, salt, or expense of a traditional water softener system. Has traditional water softening technology improved? What about those magnetic or electronic water softening devices? Are they an acceptable alternative? Kit R. Boulder, CO

DEAR KIT: I am surprised sand doesn't flow from your water pipes. Your water hardness reading is practically off the chart. Blame Mother Nature for this. The rainfall she provides absorbs carbon dioxide as it travels towards the ground. This makes the rain slightly acidic. When the acidic rainwater enters the ground, it actually dissolves tiny rock particles. Typically, calcium and magnesium end up in the water. Some parts of the nation, the Pacific Northwest, the North Atlantic coastal states, and the Southeast coastal states excluding Florida, have naturally occurring soft water.

Water hardness is measured by calculating the amount of dissolved sediment in the water. A grain of hardness is equal to 1/7000th of a pound. Generally speaking, water contain 3.5 or more grains per gallon is considered hard. Water that contains greater than 10.5 grains is considered extremely hard.

Hard water can cause all sorts of problems. It causes unsightly water spots on polished faucets, stainless steel sinks, shower doors, and on freshly washed cars. These pesky water marks can often be cleaned by using a solution of white vinegar and water, but they can be totally eliminated if you manufacture soft water in your home. Hard water also makes it more difficult to clean clothes.

The traditional method of softening water is a simple chemical reaction. Calcium and magnesium are removed from the water as it passes through a filtering media that contains millions of sodium ions. The sodium comes from highly purified salt that is stored in a container next to the filtering media tanks. The hard water minerals are attracted to the filter and the sodium ions take their place in the water. The amount of salt in the water is minuscule and many people cannot taste it, although some people do detect its presence. Those people who must restrict the amount of salt in their diet can have a separate water line installed to the kitchen sink. This water tap provides regular hard water and should be used for drinking and cooking.

You can minimize the costs of softening water by only using it where you need it. The water lines that serve outdoor hose bibs used to water plants should deliver hard, not soft water. A separate hose bib installed near the garage piped into the soft water system is perfect for use when you wash and rinse your car. Cold water that enters your water heater should definitely be soft. Heat causes the hard water minerals to build scale faster. The use of soft water in water heaters can actually prolong a heater's life thus saving you money. In addition, hard water scale deposits can form rapidly on the bottom of water heater tanks. This scale slows heat transfer and causes you to spend more money to heat water day in and day out.

You can buy traditional water softeners that operate totally on water pressure. Many conventional softeners require electricity to complete the regeneration process that flushes the collected hard water chemicals from the softening system. The water powered softeners also do not waste salt. They only regenerate when there is a need. Most other systems operate on a timer and may waste salt and electricity when regeneration is not actually required.

Magnetic and electronic descaling devices being sold for home use are still relatively new technology. These devices do not remove anything from the water. The manufacturers claim they stop scale from forming by imparting an electrical charge on the hard water ions as they pass through a magnetic or electronic field. This technology has a track record of acceptable performance in the industrial and commercial water treatment arena where they can be carefully installed and the systems can be matched to the incoming water temperature, flow rates through the piping, the amount of water hardness, and the water chemical composition. A residential magnetic or electronic device may work in one house but not another because of these variables.

Standard high voltage electric cables (208/220/240V) that are in almost every residential home can cause interference with the performance of these devices. If a high voltage line is within 36 inches of any water line that has contains treated and energized water, the electromagnetic field created by the high voltage line will interfere and possibly reverse the effects of the treatment device. The Water Quality Association has formed a special task force that began looking into magnetic and electronic descaling products in 1999.

WQA Magnetics Task Force Report: In March of 2001, the Water Quality Association (http://www.wqa.org) published a two-year study called the "WQA Magnetics Task Force Report." The report detailed 34 of 106 scientific test results on magnetic water treatment that met the task force's scientific criteria. They concluded that many of these magnetic processes were valid and worked to soften water, but in order to spread the technology more research is required and the industry should be held to a certification standard concerning water treatment.

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Air and Water Infiltration Barriers

Posted on by Tim Carter
Air and Water Infiltration Barriers

This is housewrap on my own home. I did some remodeling of my own and had to remove wood siding to install two small windows. The wrap was in perfect condition and I simply put back on the siding I removed.

DEAR TIM: I have heard about a widespread problem concerning houses that are rotting out because of water that gets behind the exterior stucco finish. Can this happen with other building materials like brick, stone, and the many different sidings? Doesn't the building code address rot concerns? How can you prevent wood rot in wood framing? Is it expensive? Robin B., Montgomery, OH

DEAR ROBIN: The rot problem you are referring to is real. It involves a synthetic stucco material called barrier Exterior Foam Insulating System (EIFS). In many, many instances, this exterior system was applied directly to the wood sheathing of houses. Water that infiltrated behind the synthetic stucco system got trapped against the wood sheathing and caused the wood to rot. Wood rot can happen in any house, but the barrier EIFS has a tendency to dramatically accelerate the rot process.

Many builders, remodelers, and homeowners forget that exterior finish materials such as brick, stone, cement stucco, vinyl siding, wood siding, etc. are the primary moisture barrier. They stop a majority of the water from wind driven rain, water balloon fights, and lawn sprinklers, but not always all of it. Water can leak through brick mortar. It can leak around the caulked edges of windows and doors. When this happens and there is no water barrier behind the exterior finish material, problems can begin.

Lumber used for wall studs and floor joists and plywood and oriented strand board (OSB) used for wall, floor and roof sheathing can resist a certain amount of wet/dry cycles. This is why the lumber doesn't rot during the construction process. It can readily dry. Drying times lengthen considerably when these materials are covered. The longer the wood stays damp or wet, the longer the fungi that cause wood rot can live. If you want to stop wood rot, you need to stop water from contacting wood sheathing and wood framing members.

The model building codes do address the issue of water membranes. But keep in mind that the model codes are a set of minimum standards. You can find tables in many of the codes that actually state that sheathing paper is not required behind aluminum, vinyl, and various wood sidings, but is required behind other exterior treatments. The code and I do not see eye to eye on this issue. Secondary protection from water can be achieved easily and inexpensively. I would always install a secondary water membrane of some type over wood sheathing and framing.

Many years ago, carpenters used ordinary asphalt saturated roofing felt paper to perform this job. I have taken apart 80 year old houses where the wood framing and sheathing were in perfect condition because the felt paper stopped water from contacting the wood. The asphalt felt paper was applied in horizontal strips starting at the bottom of the house and continuing up the structure overlapping several inches at each new course.

You can still use felt paper, but the modern air and water infiltration barriers might be better. Felt paper comes in 3 foot wide rolls. A one story house will require a minimum of 3 separate strips of felt that wrap around the entire house. The modern water and air barriers are available in rolls up to 10 feet wide requiring only a single pass on a one story home.

Protecting a house from water is cheap. An average sized single story house can be covered with a modern water and air infiltration barrier for approximately $325.00 for labor and material. Covering this same house with traditional felt actually costs more, $380.00, even though the material cost is less. The felt installation requires three wrapping trips around the house. These costs are a drop in the bucket compared to the cost to replace rotten wood sheathing or wood framing members if rot sets in. Make sure that your builder or remodeler uses some form of water membrane to cover the wood frame of your home or room addition before any finish materials are applied.

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Building Code Defects – Hiring Attorneys to Win Court Battles

Posted on by Tim Carter
building codes

You are going to need more than the building code to win your court fight. Great photos and the testimony of several hired gun experts may also be necessary.

DEAR TIM: My husband and I are battling with our builder. He is not responding to our repeated requests to fix all of our warranty items. When workers do show up we get more poor workmanship and excuses. We are thinking of hiring an attorney. Will we prevail if we go to court? What is involved in trying to extract justice through the legal system? Are there ways to increase the odds of winning in court? Pamela D., Scottsbulff, NE

DEAR PAMELA: If it is any consolation, you are not alone in your war. Thousands of homeowners like you are victims of a robust economy that is causing an enormous shortage of skilled workers, experienced building project managers, and seasoned builders. Expensive new homes and large remodeling projects can be peppered with poor quality work and sub-standard materials. The frightening thing is that the process feeds on itself. Entry level employees in the building trades exposed to these poor practices are conditioned to think that they are doing things correctly.

Builders who ignore complaints make a big mistake. Instead of hiding from problems they should run directly at them. Imagine if your builder would have fixed every problem to your complete satisfaction. You would probably become his top salesperson. His arrogance and ignorance has now made him your number one enemy. You may be able to win your war, but there are hundreds of hidden land mines littering the battlefield that you must avoid. Be prepared for costly tactical delays, legal motions, builder bankruptcy, expert reports that don't necessarily support you to the highest degree, etc.

If you decide to enter the traditional legal system to extract justice in this matter, understand that you have joined a high stakes poker game that can last for years. I am called upon frequently to act as an industry expert in cases like yours. The fees charged by the attorneys and experts in the early stages of the legal process can often exceed $5,000.00. A difficult case with many defects and issues can swallow well over $10,000.00 in fees long before you would actually appear in court!

You first need to calculate the extent of your current damages or losses. If the outstanding warranty work can be repaired by quality craftspeople for several thousand dollars, it just might be a better business decision to have the work done by others and consider the money a tuition payment to the College of Hard Knocks. Unfortunately most people in this situation don't think clearly. They are blinded by their desire to inflict an equal or greater amount of pain and misery on the negligent builder.

Certain states have laws that allow a consumer to extract legal fees and often double or triple damage amounts from the builder if the consumer can prove beyond a reasonable doubt that the builder intentionally knew of the defects or knowingly performed work that is in violation of the building code. If your warranty problems include many of these situations, then you need to discuss this possibility at the first meeting with your attorney. Keep in mind that you have to foot the bill for the entire legal process and still might not get the money even if you win. The only guarantee in this game is that you will be writing sizable checks each month to your attorney.

To enhance your chances of victory you must choose a brilliant attorney. You want one who is seasoned and has fought many of these battles. Interview different attorneys and ask them about their records. Ask for proof that he or she has handled cases similar to yours. Inquire about the total cost of the services in each case and how the matter was finally resolved. Keep in mind that many lawsuits get settled just before the trial date or on the courthouse steps.

Your chances of winning in court or in a settlement can be significantly improved if your claims do not include defects that are subjective in nature. In other words, your expectation of a professional paint or drywall job may be far different than that of the judge or jury. I have found that the strongest cases include defects that are clear cut violations of the building code. If you can prove that foundation footers don't exist where they are supposed to be, that the staircase design and width do not meet code, that vital fire stopping in walls is missing, fireplace and chimney design flaws, etc. then you just might be able to get the builder and his attorney to yelp "Uncle!" early in the proceedings.

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