Finding Replacement Parts – Prepare for the Future!

Posted on August 5, 2003 by Tim Carter

This silly toilet tank lid can be nearly impossible to find 20 years down the road. It may pay to have an extra one on hand for important toilets that your guests use. Or you may end up having to install a completely new toilet just to get a new lid!

Finding Replacement Parts

DEAR TIM: I have just spent two vacation days trying to locate replacement parts for fixtures around my home. Replacement ceramic tile and a simple toilet tank lid were nowhere to be found. I was able to get replacement parts for an older faucet, but I had to visit three stores to find them. Are there businesses that sell out of stock building materials? Surely there must be an alternative or a way to avoid wasting all of this time. Shelly A. Wilmington, OH

DEAR SHELLY: A similar thing happened to me not too long ago but my search for parts lasted about 2 minutes. I needed to replace a chipped piece of ceramic tile in one of my bathrooms. I went into my basement and found the exact piece I needed. Years of building has taught me to order extra materials and save scrap material when possible. You just never know when it might come in handy.

Replacement parts for many of the fixtures in your house are often readily available when the house is being built. But as time passes, some of these parts can become extinct. Colors and styles change as do peoples' tastes. My in-laws have a pink and gray ceramic tile bathroom. It was the rage 40 years ago when their house was built but finding replacement tile today would be next to impossible. It is unrealistic to expect tile stores to take up valuable stock space with tile that is no longer popular.

Some cities and towns do have shops that specialize in used and salvaged building materials. I am fortunate where I live. There are at least three businesses that have a wide variety of unusual old building supplies. One of them even stocks panes of glass that are over 100 years old. I know because I used to sell it to them when I would remove it from old houses that were getting new replacement windows. These stores are often listed in the Yellow Pages portion of the phone book. Look under the Building Materials, Salvaged Materials, or Architectural Antiques headings of the phone book.

If you are connected to the Internet you might also have some luck at the various auction or swap web sites. The power of the Internet allows a person to have a yard sale and the rest of the world can be the customer base. I happen to know a person right now who is remodeling his kitchen. He hates the old plastic ceramic tile on the walls and was going to throw it away. When I told him there was a market for it, he was surprised. There is an enormous amount of treasure out there, you just have to go hunting for it.

I feel the best way to prepare for the future is to buy replacement parts when you build or very soon after your house is built. Things as common as circuit breakers can become hard to find. If a manufacturer changes an electric panel design, you may be in a bind down the road when you want to add a circuit or two. The trick is to buy things that do not go bad. Ceramic tile, faucet parts, specialty glass for light fixtures, circuit breakers, electric switches, roof shingles, brick, etc. are examples of things that simply don't go bad if stored in a cool, dry location. I have many of these things stockpiled from when I built my own home and believe me, they have come in handy on more than one occasion.

Creating a stockpile like this may only cost several hundred dollars. Circuit breakers often cost less than $5 each. Ceramic tile may be only $3 per square foot. A box of vinyl tile may cost just $40. A square of shingles could cost just $30 now but the color you need may be unavailable in just five years. To make sure stockpiled items don't get thrown away, mark them clearly. Certain items like faucet parts can be placed in plastic zip lock bags and be attached to the inside of sink and lavatory cabinets. Each time you open the cabinet door you will get that warm and fuzzy feeling that you are prepared for that upcoming leak!

Column 329

Cupolas

Posted on August 5, 2003 by Tim Carter

This cupola is on my own garage. The wind vane really works well.

Cupolas

DEAR TIM: I really want to put a cupola equipped with a functional weathervane on my garage roof. It seems like a straightforward job but I wonder how to cut the bottom of the cupola so that it will fit the roof angle correctly. What do you do to keep rain from leaking into the garage after you cut the hole for the cupola? How do you support the weathervane? My roof pitch is just 6 inches of rise in 12 inches of run so I can easily stand and work on it. Julie C., Green River, WY

DEAR JULIE: Since your garage roof is a medium pitch roof, you may be lucky and complete this job in just one day. If the roof had been steeply pitched, then this job would require some specialized rigging and an extra helper. Even though you feel comfortable on the roof, keep in mind that this is dangerous work. Stepping on a twig on a roof can cause you to slip and fall, so be careful and alert at all times.

The challenge of cutting the correct roof slope on the bottom of the cupola stumps many rookie carpenters as well as homeowners. Seasoned carpenters will simply use a framing square and a level to determine the particular roof pitch. Once the pitch is known, they can adjust the framing square on the bottom of the cupola and duplicate the roof angle. You can bypass all of this geometry and cut right to the chase using a level, a pencil and a square piece of cardboard that is 12 inches longer than the base of the cupola.

Set your ladder at the side of the roof. Extend it so the top of the ladder is just below the peak. Scale the ladder with your pencil, level and cardboard. Position the cardboard at the edge of the roof. Use the level to make sure the bottom of the cardboard is level. The top of the cardboard should be about 3 inches higher than the peak of the roof. Carefully reach around the cardboard and trace the roof line on the backside of the cardboard. Bingo, you now have a handy template.

Once you are back on the ground, use a razor knife and carefully cut away the top portion of the cardboard. Use the remainder of the cardboard to transfer the roof angle to the base of the cupola. Make sure the bottom of the template is parallel with the bottom of the cupola base or your cupola will be tilted once it is up on the roof!

Cupolas can be installed two ways. You can simply rest the cupola on the roof without cutting a hole in the roof or you can cut a hole so that the cupola actually acts as a decorative ventilation device. If you go with plan A, your chances of a roof leak are next to nothing. You simply need to caulk the heads of the long screws that you will use to penetrate through the sides of the cupola down into and through the roof covering.

If you decide to cut a hole in the roof so that the cupola works as a ventilator, then make sure the roof hole is about 6 inches less in width and length than the outer base of the cupola. This will allow you to install hidden blocks on the edges of the hole. Be sure the cupola can easily slide over these blocks after they are installed. Once the blocks are positioned and screwed to the roof sheathing, install traditional metal step flashing under each shingle that fits snugly against these hidden blocks. With the flashings in place, you drop the cupola down over the flashings and the blocks. To keep the cupola from blowing off the roof, simply screw through the bottom of the cupola into the hidden blocks.

The weather vane rod needs to rest on an internal flat 2x4 block that often needs to be installed inside the structure of the cupola. It is important that the block is centered within the cupola. With the center point marked on the block, drill a hole one half inch deep that is one eighth inch larger in diameter than the weathervane rod. When you slide the weather vane rod through the top of the cupola, it will fit solidly inside this hole. This will insure that the weathervane does not wobble or lean.

Companion Articles: Weathervane & Cupola Tips, Cupola Installation Tips, Weathervane & Cupola Manufacturers

Column 330

Garage Door Openers

Posted on August 5, 2003 by Tim Carter

Garage Door Openers

DEAR TIM: After tornado damage, our one-half horsepower garage door opener, that was only 18 months old, was replaced by the insurance company with a different brand. The replacement opener looks cheap compared to our original opener. The parts seem simpler and appear to be made of cheaper plastic. Is there a big difference in garage door openers? Did I get ripped off by the insurance company? What should I have known when I was talking with the insurance adjuster? Chad K., Shawnee, OK

DEAR CHAD: Without seeing the two openers side by side, it is very hard for me to tell you if the replacement is of a lesser quality than your original. I am by no means an insurance expert, but it seems to me that it would not be unreasonable for you to get the exact same opener as part of the settlement. Why not call your insurance agent and let them know that you are not satisfied? If they don't hear from you, they will think everything is just fine.

This builder-grade major brand name opener lasted 16 years in my home. Many garage door openers are built very well.

There is no doubt that a good grasp of garage door opener features and designs would have enabled you to purchase a top quality garage door opener, much less make a fair settlement with the insurance company. There are indeed differences in garage door openers, more today than ever before.

The first thing to consider when purchasing an opener is the actual drive system. There are three primary types: belt driven, chain driven and direct drive. Direct drive systems tend to be more reliable as there are no belts that might break or chains that can loosen over time. My own 15 year old garage door openers are direct drive and they operate flawlessly each day. There has never been a reason to have them serviced.

Your choice of a one-half horsepower motor was excellent. This motor should lift any sized residential garage door. Another common size is one-third horsepower. Keep in mind that the openers don't actually do all of the work to lift a door. In fact, they should do very little. The massive springs that are part of the garage door hardware are designed to lift the door. It is vitally important that these springs be correctly adjusted so that the garage door opener motor does not burn out prematurely. NEVER adjust garage door springs yourself. This is a job for professionals.

You may want to pay attention to warranties. There is a big difference between different brands. Look for a long term warranty that covers both the motor and all other opener parts. If you are an impatient driver, keep in mind that some openers operate at higher speeds. The average speed of most openers is 7 inches of lift/drop per second. Some newer models double this speed. For safety and security reasons, it is best to open and close the door only when you can see it.

Pay particular attention to safety features. Government regulations mandate that all automatic door openers be equipped with a non-contact invisible beam system. If a person, animal or object breaks the beam as the door is operating, the door reverses and goes back to the open position. The opener should also have a contact reversing feature, a timed reversing feature, a force adjustment attribute, automatic lights, and a manual emergency release cord. Many openers have these must-have features that will protect you and your loved ones.

If you have living areas above or adjacent to your garage, it may be worthwhile to pay attention to noise output. Some garage door openers are far noisier than others. Keeping the garage door hardware well lubricated will also keep operational noise down.

People who own homes with multiple garage doors might be very interested in the newer remote controls. Some are equipped with multiple buttons that allow you to open the door of your choice. Be sure to look for an opener that has a rolling radio signal code. This system offers you the greatest protection from thieves who might want to grab your code from thin air and then open your door when you are not home.

Column 331

Toilet Flush Problems – Easy DIY Fix

Posted on August 5, 2003 by Tim Carter

Toilet flush problems can be diagnosed with a 3.5 or a 5-gallon bucket. The secret is revealed in the video just below. Watch it for sure. This column was REVISED and shared with the 31,000 subscribers who read my October 12, 2018 AsktheBuilder Newsletter. Copyright 2018 Tim Carter

"Water from the tank rushes to this location to begin to push water and waste out of the bowl. This hole can also be clogged."

Toilet Flush Problems Checklist

Was the toilet made between 1992 and 1998? Check date inside the tank and under the lid
Do bucket test to check for clogs
Check if flapper valve stays open
Look for hard-water deposits

Toilet Flush Problems - Easy DIY Solutions

How Does a Toilet Flush?

Typical toilet tank mechanics. The ballcock valve, overflow tube and the flapper valve.

A toilet flushes when a large volume of water enters the toilet bowl in less than two or three seconds.

The flushing action of a toilet is simple physics. The water in the tank sits above the water in the bowl. This tank water has stored energy because of the force of gravity.

When the toilet tank handle is tripped, this water starts to work by pushing the water in the bowl and its contents out of the way and down the drain pipe.

What Limits the Force of the Flush?

The volume of water in the tank, its height above the bowl, restrictions or blockages between the tank and the bowl, or within the bowl all limit the speed and amount of work the tank water can perform.

When were Low-Flush Toilets Required by Law?

Low-flush toilets were mandated by the 1992 Energy Policy Act in an effort to save water. Traditional toilets used 3.5 gallons of water per flush. Toilets built

Why Don't the First Low-Flush Toilets Flush?

Some of the first low-flush toilets were poorly engineered and the 1.6 gallons of water simply couldn't do enough work. The inside channels the water passed through from the tank to the bowl didn't allow the small amount of water to enter the bowl fast enough.

Designs have improved but many consumers still complain about the fact that they have to flush the toilet two or three times to get the bowl clean. This sure doesn't seem to save water!

Can the Fill Valve Be The Problem?

Toilet flush problems can be caused by the fill valve in the tank.

The tank's water level adjustment has slipped. Perhaps your tank is not filling completely. Low water levels in the tank mean less energy to flush.

How Much Water Should Be In the Tank?

The tank water level, when full, should be just below the vertical water overflow tube.

Most tanks have a water fill line stamped in the interior side wall. See if the water level rises to this mark once water stops flowing into the tank. If the water level is low, adjust the fill valve float mechanism so it allows more water to enter the tank. Be sure to always lay the toilet lid flat on the floor when checking the tank. Lids that are leaned against a wall have a strong tendency to slip, fall and crack.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local plumbers who can fix your toilet.

Can Hard Water Cause Toilet Flush Problems?

Toilet flush problems can be associated with blockages created by hard water. Hard water deposits may be blocking they siphon-jet hole in the base of the bowl or the rinse holes located on the underside of the toilet bowl rim.

The siphon-jet hole is about the size of a nickel. It's located at the base of the bowl in many toilets. Water from the tank rushes to this location to begin to push water and waste out of the bowl. This hole can also be clogged. Gently use a Popsicle stick to clean out this opening.

Use a mirror to look at the small holes in the underside of the bowl rim. These holes can get clogged with mineral deposits over time. Use a large wooden toothpick to open these holes. Never use a metal tool to do this. It can quickly chip or crack the china.

This is the hole where water leaves the tank on its way to the bowl. The flapper valve is wide open and in the up position.

Muriatic acid can be used to clear out the hard water deposits. CLICK HERE for detailed instructions on how to use this powerful acid.

Can the Flapper Valve Cause Problems?

Yes, the flapper valve may be closing too fast not allowing enough water into the bowl.

Observe the flapper valve when the toilet flushes. It should stay in the up position until 90 percent of the water leaves the tank. If it drops too soon, it may be waterlogged and/or the chain that lifts it may need to be shortened.

Why Does Water Fill the Tank Without Flushing?

The phantom flushing problem is probably a leaking flapper valve. You can test for this by pouring some red food coloring into the tank after it has filled and the water is calm. Check the toilet in 30 - 60 minutes. If the water in the bowl is pink, this tells you small amounts of water are getting past the flapper valve. When enough water leaks from the tank, the fill valve operates to replace the lost water.

Can Blockages Be in the Tank?

Look at the hole in the bottom of the tank when the black flapper valve is in the up position. See if there are any army men or small boats at the bottom of the drain hole where the tank connects to the toilet bowl. Curious children often play in the water of the toilet tank and toys can get sucked down into the top of the toilet bowl.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local plumbers who can fix your toilet.

Column 332

Hip, Ridge and Soffit Ventilation

Posted on August 5, 2003 by Tim Carter

This is the peak of my sun room roof. The upper six feet of it was horribly rotted from regular indoor humidity that condensed on the underside of the roof sheathing. The rot was much worse on the north facing roof that you see in this photo. The east facing side of the hip roof had only 50 percent as much rot.

Hip, Ridge and Soffit Ventilation

DEAR TIM: The buzz word in my area about new roof and re-roofing jobs is ridge and soffit ventilation. I don't remember seeing any of these products on the houses I grew up in. Are they really necessary? What happens if your house has a hip roof? A friend of mine who lives in the snow belt had one foot of snow accumulate in his attic because of these devices! I wonder if this ventilation trend is just a clever trick to sell something that is more trouble than it is worth. Charles P., Wahoo, NE

DEAR CHARLES: These new hip, ridge and soffit ventilation products are indeed clever. But don't think for a minute that they are a tricky gimmick sold by a motivated roofing salesperson or a builder. These products are innovative and an absolute necessity. New houses built without ridge and soffit ventilation can have serious roof rot problems. I know it for a fact as it happened at my own home.

The sun room at one corner of my house happens to have a cathedral ceiling that rises on two sides of the room creating a hip roof. One side of the hip faces east and the other side faces north. When I built my house 16 years ago there were no foolproof hip roof ventilation products available. I was very worried that the humidity created by the many plants in this room might cause a rot problem. This year my annual fall exterior walk around inspection revealed that my fears had come true. Serious wood rot had developed on the upper areas of the north face of this hip roof. See above photograph.

There are several good reasons why older homes did not have nor were required to have ridge and soffit ventilation. Older homes often had windows and doors that had no or poor quality weatherstripping. Air infiltration barriers had yet to be invented. The massive amounts of cold dry outdoor air would mix with the warm moisture laden inside air. The net result was that the indoor humidity in older drafty homes was far lower than indoor air you might encounter in your existing home. To make matters worse, as older homes are improved with new windows, doors and other energy saving suggestions they become condensation time bombs.

Since the wall systems of new homes and improved houses no longer leak air, the houses release the moisture into the attic spaces. If this moisture laden air is not quickly released from a cold attic the water vapor can condense on the cold wood surfaces in these spaces. If this happens wood rot will indeed happen as it did on my own house. Soffit, ridge and hip ventilation products allow Mother Nature to vacuum this moisture laden air from your attic with each puff of wind that blows across your roof.

As with most building products necessity is the mother of invention. Your friend that had snow in his attic probably had a low quality first generation ridge vent. Many of these allowed blowing snow and sometimes rain to enter attic spaces. New ventilation products are now available that will block snow and rain from entering attics. In fact, special hip vents can now be purchased that satisfy my tough demands. Hip vents are special because they need to have internal baffles that block snow and rain that can blow sideways across a roof. If you have a hip roof, be sure you install a special vent on these areas of your house.

The ridge and hip vents come in all flavors. You can purchase different colored metal vents that act as the cap shingles at the top of the roof. Other vent products are coils of plastic fabric that resembles coarse steel wool. My personal favorite is the hard plastic ridge and hip vents that are strong enough to stand on. These are applied over saw cut openings at the top of the roof or along a hip ridge. You then nail the roof shingles over the vents. Only a trained eye can detect their presence from the ground.

Column 335

Adding Glass to a Front Door

Posted on August 5, 2003 by Tim Carter

I added the stained glass panels to this door. Believe it or not, this used to be a traditional six-panel door. I completely removed the top four panels, the vertical stiles and the horizontal rail. The entire process took less than one day. I did the same with the sidelights.

Adding Glass to a Front Door

DEAR TIM: I know this sounds odd, but is it possible to remove the wood panels in a traditional solid wood six panel door and replace them with glass? There is no doubt in my mind that this would make the entrance hall in our house brighter and make the front of our home more attractive. Is it easy to do? What is the most energy efficient way to accomplish this? Ron M., New Providence, NJ

DEAR RON: If it is odd to do this, then my wife has been right about me all these years. I have performed this door surgery before on many occasions and all of the patients survived and are in excellent health! What's more, I am getting ready to install beveled glass panels in my own six panel wood front door. Not only will you add light and value to your home, but you will also get an avalanche of positive comments from friends, neighbors and anyone else who gets to see the finished product.

Keep in mind that the building code mandates that glass in doors must be tempered. This is a safety feature that prevents serious injury in the event someone thrusts their hand or arm through the glass. Tempered glass does not break into shards that slice and spear.

It is not as hard to accomplish this job as you might think. You will need a steady hand, a circular saw with a fine toothed blade, a sharp wood chisel, a hammer, a miter box, some small finish nails and a small quantity of decorative molding. Many of these tools you might already own. If not, you can rent the circular saw and purchase the others. The first thing you need to do is decide what kind of glass you are going to use. To save as much as possible on your energy bills, I suggest that you install insulated glass in place of the solid wood panels. Once this is in place you can then apply a custom made stained and/or beveled glass panel on top of the insulated glass on the interior side of the door. This decorative glass can be held in place by a decorative stop molding or it can be simply caulked in place. The decorative molding will be more dependable if the door slams shut on occasion.

The glass panels need to be made to size before you start the job. What's more, you need to make sure they are the right size before you start taking apart the door. If you remove the raised panels and then find out that the glass is the wrong size, you will have a huge mess on your hands. Be sure that there is a 1/8 inch gap between each of the four sides of each glass panel and the wood door core. Without this gap, seasonal expansion and contraction can shatter the glass.

Have you found the perfect exterior door? Make sure you install it perfectly using my Exterior Door Replacement Checklist. I offer a 100% Money Back Guarantee.

The removal of the raised panels requires that you carefully cut along the interior edge of the stiles and rails of the door that surround each raised panel. You will notice that the wood has a profiled edge as it dives down towards the raised panel. Set the circular saw cutting depth to 5/8 inch. The entire blade of the saw should be cutting inside the profiled edge of the stiles and rails. Do not allow the saw blade to cut into the flat surface areas of the door. Stop the blade at each corner and complete the cutout with the chisel. When the small profiled area is cut away you will be able to easily remove each raised panel.

Once the panels are out of the way, paint the bare wood that has now been exposed. This protective coating will prevent any wood rot that may begin from driving rains that try to get between the new glass and the wood. Apply a bead of acrylic siliconized caulk to the inside edge of the remaining profiled edge and set the glass in place. The insulated glass panel is held in place by the small wood molding. If possible, try to get one that matches the profile of the one you cut away. Use the miter box to cut the pieces to fit and fasten the moldings to the door with 3 or 4 penny finish nails. Do not drive the nails into the glass. The average door surgery lasts about three hours if there are no complications.

A Dandy Bookshelf in 2 Hours

Posted on August 5, 2003 by Tim Carter

bookcase

Bookshelf in 2 Hours

DEAR TIM: The holiday season is nearly here and I want to make a gift for my husband instead of buying something. His study is a mess and it is no secret that he needs more shelving. Do you have any ideas for a simple, yet smart looking bookshelf that a novice like me can build? Can it be done for less than $75.00? I don't have many tools so it needs to be easy. Diane H., Kettering, OH

DEAR DIANE: This is your lucky day! If you have an entire day available you can make the same gift for several people. I just completed a practical and snazzy looking four foot high by four foot wide solid wood bookshelf that has a top and bottom shelf and two adjustable shelves. After the wood pieces were cut it took less than 45 minutes to completely assemble it.

To stay within budget you usually need to think modular. Modular construction simply means that you use standard sized materials that minimize cutting and maximize return on your investment of money and time. In my opinion 1 x 8 solid poplar makes the best bookshelf material. A 1 x 8 system creates shelves that are 7 and 1/4 inches deep. A wide majority of books will comfortably fit on these shelves. I purchased all of the materials to complete my project for $72.47.

There are several simple features that you can incorporate into the bookshelf to give it that custom look. A recessed toe kick that rests beneath the bottom shelf creates depth and makes for a very interesting look. What's more, this simple element also provides support for the bottom shelf so that you can put the largest books on this level with no fear of warping the shelf. A similar but narrower strip of wood is placed just beneath the top shelf. This piece of wood needs to be kept flush with the front edge of the bookshelf. It helps support the top shelf and it serves as a foundation for a decorative piece of bed molding that dresses up the top front and side edges of the bookshelf.

Most traditional lumber yards or home centers will have all the supplies you need. Many of these same places also have powerful saws that can cut the lumber to specific lengths. Not all of these businesses will cut the lumber and those that do will not guarantee the absolute accuracy of the cuts. If you wish to cut the lumber yourself to insure accuracy, then I suggest you rent a 12 inch diameter power miter box saw. This saw will slice through the 1 x 8 poplar in one motion. It will also allow you to easily cut the 45 degree miter joints for the decorative bed molding. The only other tools you will need will be a tape measure, a hammer, and a nail set that countersinks the finish nails.

To give the bookshelf enormous strength and to keep it square, I used a 1/4 inch thick piece of luan plywood as the backing. This plywood comes with one clear face and when stained or painted it looks superb. The plywood is nailed directly to the back of the bookcase with 7/8 inch long brass round headed nails. If you start nailing along the top edge of the book shelf and then align the sides of the shelf with the plywood the bookshelf automatically becomes square. You can fill the bookshelf to the brim with books and it will not rack sideways and collapse as a bookshelf without a back might do.

Bookshelf

The poplar lumber I used was of such high quality that I intend to simply apply two clear coats of urethane. You may choose to lightly stain yours or possibly paint it. If you do either of these be sure to wait until you are completely finished before you attach the thin metal shelf standards. It can be very time consuming to paint or stain with these items in your way. It will only take you a few moments to nail these standards into place after the last coat of paint or urethane is dry.

This same concept can be used to build larger bookshelves. There is nothing stopping you from building a taller bookshelf. If you want a wider set of shelves, I suggest that you limit them to the four foot width. Long shelves can -- and do -- warp over time from the weight of books. Simply build two cases and place them side by side. You can dress up the seam where they touch with a small piece of decorative molding.

Related Column:

Decorative Wall Shelf in One Hour

Column 337

Skylight Repair

Posted on August 5, 2003 by Tim Carter

The head flashing is on the right side of this photo. It extends up another 7 inches under the shingles farther up the roof.

Skylight Repair

DEAR TIM: Currently I have a problem with skylights in my home. They are leaking and are very old. I want to replace them with larger units that will not leak. Is that possible? Finding a roofer or contractor to do this has been very frustrating. What kind of contractor do I hire to do this and just how does one find a really good contractor? Do I need a divining rod? George C.,Orlando, FL

DEAR GEORGE: I can feel your pain. You have double trouble because your problem involves a roof leak. Since you already have plenty of water in your house from the leak you can throw away the divining rod. Get rid of your tarot cards and Ouija board too. It can be hard to find a qualified contractor or roofer, but trust me, there is usually one or two in every city or town. You simply need to look in the right places.

Let's solve the roof leak problem first. The vast majority of roof leaks can usually be found where things pop up through a roof. Skylights, plumbing vent pipes, heating vent pipes, chimneys, second story sidewalls, etc. can all abut or penetrate a roof. These non-roof items are connected to roof materials by using flashings. Flashings are simply transitional roofing materials. They can be made from tin, copper, aluminum, lead or even modified asphalt materials. My guess is that your skylight flashings are the source of your trouble.

Many skylights that are sold require a roofer to fabricate some of the flashings while he is up on the roof. This process requires experience and attention to detail. Not all roofers are qualified to do this. The best skylights, in my opinion, are those that include complete factory built flashing materials in the box. They are virtually idiot proof. All the roofer has to do is follow a few easy steps and the hardest wind driven rain will not create a waterfall inside your home.

If you are enlarging the skylight opening by making it longer, then the modifications to the roof structure will probably be very minor. Major structural changes are necessary when you decide to widen a skylight opening. In these instances extra full sized rafters need to be added on either side of the skylight opening. These extra framing members help carry the roof load that used to be supported by the rafters that were cut to make the new opening wider than it is now.

Finding a reliable, competent, and skilled roofer or remodeling contractor that can do all of the work will take some time but it is by no means impossible. If you understand some of the basic principles by which these people work, the task is not as mystical as it may seem. Quality contractors are proud of their work. They want it to be perfect or nearly so and they do not want any call-back or warranty problems. To achieve trouble free results they know that high quality materials are an integral part of each project. Real professionals know that problems are public relations nightmares and drain profits.

This is the sill flashing at the base of the skylight. It covers shingles that extend up under the flashing. You can also see step flashing on the side of the skylight that is laced into and under the shingles that abut the side of the skylight.

Knowing this you start your search for contractors by visiting the businesses that supply quality materials to these individuals. You might be surprised to find out that these businesses are often places that you have never heard of. In your instance I would open the Yellow Pages and look under the heading Roofing Supplies. Many of the listings under this heading will be businesses that cater primarily to roofing contractors and not consumers like you. Visit two or three of these places if possible. Try to do this in the middle of the morning or the mid-afternoon. Never go early in the morning, at lunch or the end of the business day. These are busy times when contractors are picking up supplies.

Once there ask to speak with the manager or possibly the owner. Briefly describe your job to this person. Ask for a customer who has been buying for 15 or more years, one that routinely buys the highest quality materials, and who pays his monthly bill on time. If the business manager obliges you, you will have a list of high quality candidates. The final question to ask, if possible, would be names of contractors that this person would use to work on his or her own home.

If the manager will not release names, then go to Plan B. Do a stakeout of the business in the early morning and get business cards from the contractors who are buying supplies. Look for ones who are driving well kept vehicles that project a look of professionalism. You will still need to do more detective work, but your chances of hiring a pro are quite good.

Column 338

Positive Drainage Keeps a House Dry

Posted on August 5, 2003 by Tim Carter

downspout emptying onto concrete splash block

Splash blocks don't do much to channel water away from the foundation.

Positive Drainage Keeps a House Dry

DEAR TIM: I am building a new home soon and I do not want water drainage problems of any sort in my yard. My existing home is built on a slab and I frequently have standing water around the house after a rainfall. My new home will have a basement. Can I build a house with a dry basement or will it leak over time and become damp, musty, and useless? Surely there must be a way to eliminate all water problems around a home. Amy C., Dubuque, IA

DEAR AMY: You bet it is possible to eliminate water problems around the average home. The good news is that many of the things required to achieve a dry, well-drained lot are very economical. The largest expense will be the cost to actually waterproof your new foundation. It is a one-time expense and if you use one of the better systems out there your basement, like mine, will be bone dry for many years to come.

The earth is sloped correctly. Water runs away from the house foundation.

The first thing your builder needs to do is to make sure that the top of your foundation or slab actually sticks high enough out of the ground. All too often builders set houses into the ground too deeply. When this happens it is nearly impossible for a builder to create gentle sloping grades that direct water away from the house and to the lowest point of the lot where water would have drained naturally before the house was built.

The model building codes are very specific about foundation drainage and many state that the ground should slope at least six inches down in the first ten feet of distance away from the house. If your house is built close to the lot line a ditch needs to be built that allows similar natural drainage.

Note how the ground slopes away from the house on all sides.

Water that leaves your roof can cause all sorts of problems if it is not collected and piped away from the house. An average one-floor house might have approximately 2,400 square feet of surface area on the roof. When a storm produces one inch of rain, the amount of water draining from the roof to the ground equals nearly 1,500 gallons! Allowing this water to simply collect near the house or discharge from downspouts onto simple splash blocks at the base of a foundation is asking for trouble.

The better solution is to pipe this water away from the house. Many municipalities are now requiring that this stormwater be collected and put into retention ponds before being allowed to enter natural drainage systems like brooks and streams. Interior sump pump discharge pipes should also be connected to these downspout drain pipes. Allowing sump water to discharge alongside a foundation is insanity. The water you just paid to pump will usually enter the sump again in a matter of hours.

waterproofing on concrete foundation protected by stiff fiberglass

You can see the black rubberized asphalt that waterproofs the foundation. The pink is rigid fiberglass that protects the waterproofing material.

Make sure your builder waterproofs your foundation. Do not confuse true waterproofing systems with the thin sprayed-on asphalt that many builders install. The thin asphalt coatings are dampproofing and meet the minimum code requirements for unfinished basement areas. My basement is actually waterproofed. I used a thick modified asphalt compound that actually contains rubber. The rubber allows the material to bridge small cracks that may develop at a later date. The thick coating was then covered by rigid fiberglass insulation that keeps my basement walls warm and helps to channel water directly to the drain tile at the base of my foundation.

There are other high-quality waterproofing systems out there. Some are actually synthetic rubbers that have incredible elastic properties. Other systems use a natural clay that swells when it gets wet. You can even get special urethanes that will waterproof a foundation. Finally, there are some innovative plastic foundation wraps that claim to waterproof a foundation. These plastic products come in large rolls and look like a muffin pan. The bumps in the plastic create a pathway for water to easily flow down the sides of the foundation to the drain tile.

The key to a dry basement and lot is to cooperate with Mother Nature. One of her rules happens to be gravity. Use it to your advantage. Make sure that you use gravity to pipe surface and sub-surface water away from your house as quickly as possible. Do this and you will be the driest person on your block.

This popular column was the Magic Secret Link in the July 3, 2015 AsktheBuilder Newsletter.

Column 339

Maximize Small Home Office Space

Posted on August 5, 2003 by Tim Carter

Small Home Office Space

DEAR TIM: I am converting a small room in my home into a home office. The remodeling budget is limited and it is imperative that I maximize the space in this room. How do you suggest that I proceed? My preference is wood tops and shelves but I doubt that these are within my price range. I have moderate skills and many common tools and a table saw that I can borrow. Elise M., Oak Park, IL

DEAR ELISE: I have good news for you! Not only are you going to get what you want, but this new office space is also going to be as sleek as a new sports car. The key to success when dealing with small spaces is to think outside the box. Visit a conventional office and you will see much of the office equipment on desktops and counters. If you design your new office like mine, these things will be in the most unusual places.

Capture wasted space by making the corner of a room the center of the work area. This sounds crazy until you start to think about it. In a traditional office, a corner often ends up as depot for lost papers, folders, and books. In my home office it is command central. Large bulky computer monitors tuck comfortably into these areas. If you have a swivel chair, you can twist slightly to the left or right and have access to comfortable writing spaces on either side of your computer keyboard.

Have you ever seen an old roll top desk? Whoever designed the first one obviously had similar space problems. They had lots of pieces of paper and small supplies but no place to put them. The space just above and behind the desktop surface made an excellent storage place. The items were within reach but they did not get in the way of the primary activity that was happening on the desktop work surface. Do the same thing I have done and make use of the space just in front of your face.

The wall space just above your desktop can be covered with super strong and easy to build shelves that will hold your fax machine, printer, speakers, books, supplies, etc. These are the things that take up space on a traditional desktop. If you start the lower shelf just 20 inches off the surface of the desktop, these items will be within reach as you sit in your chair. This height will also allow a typical computer monitor and mini computer tower to slide back to the wall.

You can fabricate the desktop and shelves using affordable 3/4 inch thick fir plywood. This plywood has gorgeous knot free wood grain on the finished side and a nearly knot free surface on the back side. I recently purchased this material for less than $40 per sheet. Four or five pieces will often be enough to build multiple work surfaces and lots of wall shelves.

The laminated plywood edge can be hidden easily with a small solid wood molding that is 1/4 inch thick and 3/4 inch wide. You simply glue and nail this strip onto all exposed plywood edges to give your work surfaces a professional finished look. Four coats of water based polyurethane can be applied in one day to give the wood a waterproof, smooth and durable coating. You can stain the wood to your tastes or leave it natural as I did.

Wall support for the home office desk

Instead of fabricating legs for my work surface I cut triangular shaped brackets from the plywood. These brackets are attached to the wall and the underside of the work surface with blocking and screws. They provide enough support that the work surface will support just about anything you can put on it.

Home office keyboard shelf

I prefer to place the desktop surface at 30 inches above the floor. This is a standard desktop height. Unfortunately, it is uncomfortable to type at this height. This problem is solved by making a simple dropped platform for the computer keyboard that rests 27 inches off the floor. The tools you possess and the access to the table saw will allow you to fabricate all of the fixtures you need in just under 8 hours.

Calm Working Spaces is a wonderful book to explore before you start to build an office space at home. This 176-page book will eliminate stress by offering a wealth of advice on everything from ergonomics and aromatherapy to tax planning and security. Calm Working Spaces is full of beautiful full page color photographs showing working spaces in every possible area of a home. This book covers everything from planning , furnishing, lighting, storage, security and even offers advice on zoning, insurance and tax regulations.

Companion Articles: Home Office Desk Plans, Home Office Shelves, Home Office

Column 341

Finding Replacement Parts

Cupolas

Garage Door Openers

Toilet Flush Problems Checklist

Toilet Flush Problems - Easy DIY Solutions

How Does a Toilet Flush?

What Limits the Force of the Flush?

When were Low-Flush Toilets Required by Law?

Why Don't the First Low-Flush Toilets Flush?

Can the Fill Valve Be The Problem?

How Much Water Should Be In the Tank?

Can Hard Water Cause Toilet Flush Problems?

Can the Flapper Valve Cause Problems?

Why Does Water Fill the Tank Without Flushing?

Can Blockages Be in the Tank?

Hip, Ridge and Soffit Ventilation

Adding Glass to a Front Door

Bookshelf in 2 Hours

Skylight Repair

Positive Drainage Keeps a House Dry

Small Home Office Space

Expert Advice For Your Home