Clog-Free Kitchen and Bath Drains

kitchen sink stainer and strainer basket

This is a typical kitchen sink strainer and strainer basket. Note the slots and holes in both. (C) Copyright 2019 Tim Carter

Clog-Free Kitchen and Bath Drains

Yesterday, I was perusing a national news website whose headlines more and more are reminding me of the traditional sensational tabloids that might have a story about a lawn being stolen. Being a syndicated newspaper columnist, I find this transition most interesting.

One particular headline caught my eye as it talked about the five things you should NEVER put down your kitchen drain. I’ve been a master plumber since age 29 and have had the very good fortune to replace old kitchen drain lines and unclog newer ones choked with gunk and who-knows-what. I thought I might discover something I didn’t know.

While there were one or two good tips in the article a few of them had me scratching my head wondering if the author had ever cleaned out a residential drain line to a kitchen or bathroom sink. I decided to share with you my experiences with residential drain lines and let you apply your own common sense. Beware, as a few of the images I’m about to render might make you squirm just a bit.

I think it’s best to describe what the inside of drain pipes look like when new and after they’ve been in use for years or decades. New cast iron, copper, galvanized iron, and plastic drain lines all are quite smooth on the inside of the pipe. You want smooth bore pipe so nothing gets snagged.

Unfortunately, a characteristic of older galvanized iron pipe is that it starts to develop a rough inner surface that actually starts to get clogged from small debris that grows hard-water deposits on the inside of the pipe wall. I’ve cut out galvanized iron drain lines from kitchen and bath walls and the entire inside of the pipe is choked off with this hard calcified buildup.

Fortunately, galvanized pipe is rarely used now and it can be found in older homes built between 1900 and the late 1950s. Plastic plumbing drain lines swept the industry by storm in the 1960s and have become the go-to material for almost all residential plumbing drain installations.

I want to briefly discuss the size of pipes and what passes through them with little effort. The drain pipe beneath the toilet in your home is most likely a 3-inch-diameter pipe. Your body, on a regular basis, produces solid cylindrical waste that often might be 1 and 1/4-inches in diameter. You then add paper waste to the toilet bowl, flush it and magically all of this ends up in a septic tank or your city’s sewage treatment plant.

Now think about the lowly kitchen or bathroom sink drain pipe. Just behind the wall of the sink, there’s probably a horizontal 1.5-inch-diameter pipe. Plumbers call this a branch arm. That horizontal pipe in a kitchen should travel no more than 42 inches where it connects to a vertical pipe, a stack, that should be at least 2 inches in diameter. Bathroom sink drains almost always connect to another 1.5-inch-diameter vertical stack instead of a 2-inch one.

Imagine the size of solid material that can pass through the branch arms to the stacks with little effort if enough water is assisting in the process. In other words, a green pea should have no problems passing through a kitchen drain pipe.

Here are some best practices to keep your kitchen and bathroom sink drains clog-free for decades now that you understand how things pass through pipes.

Never allow grease to go down a drain. It solidifies and will clog drain pipes. I set aside used paper towels in my kitchen that are quite clean to sop up liquid grease from cooking pots and pans. These towels are then thrown in the garbage.

Never allow flour and egg mixtures into your kitchen sink drains. Dump as much of this as possible into the garbage. Don’t allow clumps of flour to enter the drain. Fill the kitchen sink with water halfway and wash and emulsify the flour coating on the pans and bowls. Pull the sink stopper and allow this fine slurry to rush down the drain into the main building drain. As crazy as it sounds, flush a nearby toilet to send the slurry on its way to the sewer plant or septic tank.

Keep the basket strainer in your kitchen sink strainer and allow it to capture larger food debris. Dump the debris in the garbage, don’t use your fingers to push it through the slots in the strainer sending it down the drain.

If you use a disposer in your kitchen, fill your sink with water about halfway before you turn on the disposer. Remove the disposer drain cover and turn on the disposer. The giant slug of water will carry the sludge into the main building drain under your home. All too often homeowners turn off the water at the sink too early allowing the kitchen drain pipe to have a liquid slurry laying in the pipes.

Once a month pour a gallon of boiling water down your kitchen and bathroom sink. This hot water can dissolve rogue grease that somehow makes it into the drain and it can dissolve some cosmetics that may be lurking in a bathroom drain.

If you notice a bathroom sink is starting to drain slower and slower, take a few minutes and remove the stopper. The lever that makes your drain stopper go up and down does a great job of capturing hair. It takes only minutes of your time to remove that lever and any debris that’s in the drain tailpiece where the lever operates. There are quite a few videos on YouTube showing you how to easily remove and reinstall this simple part of a bathroom sink.

Once a month pour a bucket of water into your sinks to get as much water as possible flowing down the drain as fast as possible. This is the closest thing you can do as a homeowner to pressure wash the inside of drain lines. Doing this can save you hundreds of dollars that you’d otherwise have to pay a drain-cleaning service should you abuse your drain lines.

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January 12, 2019 AsktheBuilder Newsletter

Are you a new subscriber? Welcome!  

All others, thanks for your loyalty and bravery.  

I'm back home in central New Hampshire. Eight days ago, I was helping unload 9,008 pounds of cast iron drain and vent pipe, the fittings, and the most wonderful no-hub rubber couplings that have the stainless steel band clamps.  

You use these special newer couplings to make leakproof joints between the cast iron pipe and fittings. Gone are the days of oakum and molten lead, although I've poured quite a few lead joints in my day.  

If you're a new subscriber, I'm helping to build my daughter and son-in-law's new home on Mt. Desert Island in Downeast Maine.  

Tyler Pipe is partnering with me to help spread the word about why cast iron is such a better product for plumbing drain lines in many applications. CLICK HERE for a partial list of why you might want to install cast iron in at least part of your next home.  

I was able to get about four days of piping work in enduring some wretched conditions. Two of the four days, it was raining and there's not yet a roof on the house. My son-in-law and I were kneeling in puddles of water and water was dripping on us most of the day.

There's a real urgency to get the house done for a reason I'll share in about a month. Suffice it to say everyone wanted to break ground earlier, but it just didn't happen. It was no one's fault, but a series of events kept pushing back the start date.  

It's not ideal to build in the winter, but it's possible.  

Here are just a few photos to show some completed plumbing rough-in work. In case you don't know it, I've been a master plumber since age 29 so I'm enjoying putting in the pipe.  

I'll be taping videos that explain everything to you about the plumbing, but I may not cover a burning question you may have about cast iron drain and vent pipe.

CLICK HERE to ask your question about cast iron and I'll do my best to answer your question when I shoot one of the videos.

wet-floors-meghan new build
plumbing03 meghan new build

You may be wondering, "Tim, does all that standing water on the subfloor hurt it? What about all the wood studs and floor trusses getting wet?"

CLICK HERE to get a handle on how well framing lumber and rain play together. Seriously, CLICK HERE and read this second column so you can sleep at night.  

Asbestos

I know two people, a husband and wife, who died from asbestos exposure. The lung disease is asbestosis.  

Ron was a union plasterer who worked with materials that included asbestos. Judy, I'm sure, hugged Ron each day when he got home from work and ingested the asbestos on his clothes. She also probably ingested more fibers if she did his laundry.  

If you do a little research, you'll discover that those at risk of contracting the disease have had prolonged exposure to asbestos.  

A few days ago a PR person reached out to me about interviewing an expert about asbestos. In his email he said, "I just wanted to follow up and see if you'd like to speak with XXXXX for Asbestos.com, about the dangers of asbestos exposure during home and building remodeling."  

Before getting the PR email, I knew that prolonged exposure was part of the recipe so I wanted to get the expert on the record about when that clock started ticking.  

In other words, when does exposure to asbestos cross the line to being prolonged.  

I responded to the PR person saying I'd like to talk with the advocate, but that my questions would be quite out of the ordinary.  

What I've discovered in my journey through life is that there's always an agenda. Sometimes it's out in the open and other times it's hidden.  

I gave the PR person a partial list of questions I'd ask. Here are a few of them:

Do you have independent case studies showing the minimum amount of exposure that is required to create a significant risk of contracting asbestosis from disturbing asbestos around the typical home?

Will removing a vinyl asbestos tile floor from a house put the average person at risk if the tiles are not pulverized during the demolition?

Who's really at risk of contracting the disease in normal day-to-day building and remodeling?  

Usually PR people get right back - within hours - when interest is shown about their efforts. So far I've heard nothing but crickets which leads me to believe the answers to my questions might not want to see the light of day.

I share all this with you only to let you know that I'm not your typical bobblehead media person that might just throw up some softball questions to an expert. I tend to try to use some common sense and critical thinking when I compose my questions.  

I think you also need to know that I handled my fair share of asbestos in the past 40 years on my jobs. Some was thin asbestos wrap that was on ancient heating pipes connected to gravity furnaces. I always wet it down well and kept it wet while disturbing it.  

I removed lots of VAT, some of it breaking into pieces until I discovered that dry ice is the best way to remove full pieces. You slide a block of dry ice onto each tile and in a second or two they contract enough to pop up off the floor.

Bottom line, I don't have asbestosis and I'm not exhibiting any symptoms. Let's hope the PR person will get back with me next week.  

That's enough for today.  

I'll have more for you next week for sure.  

Tim Carter  

Founder - www.AsktheBuilder.com
Get Certified Organic CLEAN - www.StainSolver.com
Amateur Radio Man - www.W3ATB.com  

Do It Right, Not Over!

Drill a Well and Hardwood Floor Scratches

Mobile Well Drilling Rig

This is a typical mobile well-drilling rig. The giant tower folds down parallel with the ground as it travels on roadways. (C) Copyright 2018 Tim Carter

Drill a Well

QUESTION #1: Tim the Builder, I’ve got a question for you. I live in a big city and am tired of the chlorinated and polluted water that flows through the city water mains. Is it possible to have my own well water as people out in the country have? How does water get into wells and what are the downsides to having your own well, if there are any? Connie M., City Anytown USA

I grew up in a big city in Ohio whose primary water supply was the Ohio River. Any number of chemical factories and giant sewage treatment plants were upstream from my city. The outflow from the sewage treatment plants is disgorged daily into the Ohio River and flowed towards the water plant intake pipes of my hometown.

Growing up I had no idea about all of this and grew accustomed to the taste and smell of the chlorine in the water. I do have a memory of a raging debate many years ago when it was announced that fluoride would be added to the city water supply.

Ten years ago, I moved from that city to a rural part of New Hampshire where I have my own water well. Each house for miles around me has their own private water well. We have natural springs in several towns near me with water spouts and filling platforms. People bring giant ten-gallon containers and fill them with this natural pure water. When I got back to my old city to visit friends, I take my own water with me to drink because the chlorinated water coming from the faucets is now revolting to me.

The simple answer to Connie’s question, and you may have wondered if you can have your own well, is yes. Yes, you probably can drill your own well on your property. You, of course, would have to contact your local building department to see if there are any regulations that must be followed. Some states and cities may still charge you for the water that’s pulled from your land, but that’s a debate for another day.

Water is under the surface of the ground in almost all locations on the planet Earth. My college degree is in geology and I had a focus on hydrogeology - the study of groundwater. The bedrock that’s under the soil cover almost always has cracks and seams in it. Gravity pulls rainwater into this network of interconnected cracks.

It’s important to realize that some locations and valleys are filled with hundreds of feet of sandy gravel. These underground deposits are like giant underground lakes filled with delicious pure water, so pure that bottled water companies locate their plants above these gravel deposits and suck the water out of the ground and put it into bottles that you pay a hefty price for. A water-bottling plant is located just fifteen miles from my current house and it extracts tens of thousands of gallons of water from the bedrock each day.

The issue is it’s not all unicorns and rainbows when it comes to drilled wells in a densely populated area like where you or Connie may live. Industrial pollution from years before could have introduced toxic chemicals that still linger in the groundwater.

Nearby property owners may routinely treat their lawns with toxic weedkillers and unnatural chemicals to have the perfect green lawn. Common sense dictates that these chemicals may leach down into the groundwater. If this happens, your well water could be dangerous to drink.

Drilling a water well can also be expensive. Well drillers commonly charge by the foot and they need to drill down far enough until the well produces a minimum of three to five gallons of water per minute is achieved. Ten or fifteen gallons is preferred. If you’re lucky like my daughter, you’ll get 80 gallons per minute.

The trouble is that in many locations well drilling is mostly chance. I’m reminded of the scenes in the famous 1948 Cary Grant movie Mr. Blandings Builds His Dream Home where the honest well driller couldn’t get enough water flow after drilling many, many feet into the bedrock. He then moved his rig just a few feet away and hit a massive amount of water in no time at all. If you’re lucky and strike a plentiful supply of naturally pure water on your land, you’ll marvel at the taste of the clear elixir!

Hardwood Floor Scratches

QUESTION #2: Tim, I’m in a bind. I won’t name names to protect the guilty, but my gorgeous hardwood floor got scratched. Some of the scratches are just in the clear finish but are visible. Other scratches are deep and extend into the hardwood. I can’t fathom removing all the furniture to have the floors refinished. Can these scratches be repaired and if so, how? Allen W., Wichita, KS

I’ve got good news for you if you share the same exact problem as Allen. Scratches in hardwood floors can be repaired. You don’t have to refinish the floors to restore them to their former luster and shine.

There are numerous DIY methods for disguising shallow scratches that are in the clear coat finish. The method I’ve had the most success with is shoe polish of all things! You can get the paste shoe polish in different colors. One of the colors may be a perfect match or you may have to blend colors to get the exact color you need.

I use a cotton swab and just try to put a tiny spot of the polish on the scratch. Always start with a color that’s lighter than your current floor color. It’s easy to go darker, but tough to reverse the process. Once you get the perfect match, then allow the polish to dry and use other cotton swabs to apply a protective coat of clear urethane over the shoe polish. Be sure to match the same sheen as you currently have on your floor.

Deep scratches require the services of a professional. In almost all cities and large towns, you can discover true artisans that do furniture repair. The top furniture sellers in a city or town use these people all the time. The craftsmen have a magic box they bring to your home with a tiny alcohol lamp, hard lacquers, and other colored materials. They can fill the deep scratches in your hardwood floor, create matching grain and puff onto the floor an aerosol mist such that you’ll never know the floor was ever scratched.

Read about Tim's experiment with hardwood floor scratches in his December 29, 2009 AsktheBuilder News and Tips.

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January 3, 2019 AsktheBuilder Newsletter

Happy New Year!  

If you're a new subscriber in the past ten days, welcome to the party.  

If you're an older subscriber, I think 2019 is going to be our best year yet. A tsunami of great building photos and videos is about to tumble onto you!  

This is going to be a fast newsletter as I'm about to get into my truck to drive from central New Hampshire up to Downeast Maine. That sounds weird, doesn't it? One needs to drive up to go down. Well, just look at a map and you'll understand it.  

Tomorrow, I start to install the rough plumbing, radiant floor heat, and electric in my daughter and son-in-law's new home.  

I'll be using all no-hub cast iron for the waste and vent lines. Why? Oh, the list is so very long, but suffice it to say that cast iron is QUIET, it's far more durable than PVC, and it doesn't snap, crackle, and pop when hot water runs through it.

Do you have to put in cast iron everywhere in your new home or project? Absolutely not! I'll be doing a video in the next few days to show you how to use cast iron and not break the bank.  

Here are some recent photos of the house-build project. If you CLICK HERE, you'll be taken to a much larger photo with more detail.  

The first one was a panorama shot two days after Christmas when the well was being drilled. You can see the second floor prefabricated walls are in place!  

Panorama Shot Second Floor Walls

See the well-drilling rig in the left rear corner of the lot? Wait until I write the column about what happened! You'll get the most from my story if you first watch the 1948 Cary Grant movie, Mr. Blandings Builds His Dream Home.  

second-floor-trusses

What you see above are the second floor trusses. They are spanning 28 feet! Imagine that - a house with no need for ANY interior beams or bearing walls! Yes, you can do that!  

Look how EASY it's going to be for the plumber and electrician!  

CLICK HERE to read MORE about these magical floor trusses.  

First Floor Interior Walls

 You're looking at interior walls that are on the first floor. These walls were also built in a factory and set in place in just MINUTES by the carpenters. What you're looking at here is the future staircase opening from the second floor down to the first floor.  

I know it doesn't make sense in this photo, but it WILL when you watch a video I'll shoot in the next week AFTER that Advantech subfloor above is cut out to reveal the opening.  

Tim Working In The Snow

That's me working in the cold to measure where the powder room toilet center line will be. I needed to make sure a floor truss would not block where I need to put the 3-inch pipe. I'm WARM and happy because of what I'm wearing.  

CLICK HERE to discover what it might be unless you live in Florida or some other place where you don't have to deal with cold.  

CLICK the following two links to hear and SEE what it's like to have a well drilled. Turn up your speakers:

Wide View of Drilling Rig
Spinning Drill Bit
 

That's enough for today. I need to go deal with some snow on the driveway before I leave for Mt. Desert Island.  

The next two weeks I might be sending you more photos and short video to give you an idea of what I'm up to.  

Wish me luck!  

Tim Carter
Founder - www.AsktheBuilder.com
Get Certified Organic CLEAN - www.StainSolver.com
Morse Code Man - www.W3ATB.com  

Do It Right, Not Over!

No Interior Bearing Walls and Be a Plasterer

floor trusses under construction

You’re looking at magnificent floor trusses. These are spanning 28 feet, but you can go greater distances with ease. There’s no need for a bearing wall or beam under them to support the weight of the floor above. (C) Copyright 2018 Tim Carter

Floor Trusses - No Interior Bearing Walls

QUESTION #1: Tim, is it possible to build a multi-story home with no, or few, interior bearing walls or beams? I’ve looked at lumber span tables and regular lumber doesn’t seem to be able to do what I want to be done. What are my options and have you ever solved this problem before? Stewart F., Portland, ME

You can build a multi-story home with no bearing walls. It’s been done for decades. The most amazing thing about how to do it is one just uses regular 2x4s to solve the problem! No, that’s not a typo! More photos were shared in Tim's January 3, 2019 AsktheBuilder Newsletter.

Let’s first discuss the span tables that Stewart mentioned. A span table is a chart that shows how far a certain floor joist can span and not bend too much depending on several factors. The wood species, the grade of the lumber, and the height or size of the floor joist are the primary things taken into consideration when creating the tables.

It’s important to realize that different species of lumber have wildly different strength characteristics. When I was building every day, Douglas Fir was one of the strongest types of lumber you could buy. Southern Yellow Pine was also very strong. Hemlock, on the other hand, was somewhat weak.

Decades ago, I used floor trusses made with ordinary 2x4s to create the floor of a large room addition for a client. He refused to have any interior load-bearing walls or beams and also wanted a floor that was as solid as concrete with no bounce in it. Magic floor trusses solve problems like these and offer much more to architects, builders, and homeowners.

A floor truss is made in a factory where common roof trusses are made. Advanced computer technology designs the exact size and shape of the truss to meet whatever specifications you require.

The end result is a wood floor truss that looks much like large steel bridges that span rivers and canyons. I’m sure you’ve seen hundreds of these where the horizontal top and bottom members of the bridge are connected by numerous other pieces of steel that look like a bunch of connected letter W’s one after another along the side of the bridge. This design can be done with steel, 2x4s, and even toothpicks for class science projects!

Plumbing, heating and cooling, and electrical contractors love working with floor trusses. They have virtually unlimited places to run pipes, ducts, and cables never having to drill one hole. The center of each floor truss almost always has a wide-open chase for a heating or cooling contractor to install his primary supply ducting down the center of the entire floor from one end to the other.

A floor truss can be designed to span 30, or more, feet with ease. The truss manufacturer can build them so strong that there’s no bounce to the floor at all. This comes in very handy if you desire a tile floor. Tile and grout can crack if installed over wood floors that are springy and bouncy.

Two or three carpenters can easily move around these giant floor trusses. You don’t need to have a large crane on a job site to set them. Each truss is an identical copy of the one next to it so the finished floor is flat and smooth with no humps or dips in it. These imperfections are quite common with normal dimensional lumber floor joists.

You can discover lots more about floor trusses as well as the closest lumberyard near you that can order them for you. Visit: http://go.askthebuilder.com/bestwaytoframe Since each job is different, these epic building materials are not a stock item you can just go pick up today. This is why you’ve probably never ever seen them before. I guarantee you’ll be spellbound when you discover all that floor trusses make possible.

Editor's Note: Read an interesting story about Brent Hutchins. He was a builder installing the floor trusses in Tim's daughter and son-in-law's new home. This was featured in the March 17, 2019 AsktheBuilder Newsletter.

Be a Plasterer

QUESTION #2: Tim, the builder, I hope you can help me. A recent bathroom remodeling job turned into a larger project resulting in a large patch of wall plaster that’s got to be replaced. My contractor’s drywall people have never done plaster repair. How would you fix this 3-foot by 3-foot hole in the wall if it were your home? I’m tempted to try to do the plaster repair myself. Do you think this is a folly as does my husband? Ann W., Montrose, CA

Situations like this had to be part of the inspiration for the children’s book The Little Engine That Could. My moniker around my home is ‘dream crusher’ because I often inject reality into family discussions. More often than not in DIY situations, my reality creates smiles. I say, “Get a simple plastering trowel out and get to work!” Yes, you can achieve professional results with the right attitude and some guidance.

You’re blessed to be living in an age where technology permits the easy sharing of knowledge. Quite a few professionals have invested vast amounts of time and resources to create excellent step-by-step videos of how to do thousands of projects. I’ve been doing it for nearly twenty years and have over 650 DIY videos on my AsktheBuilder YouTube channel.

Kirk Giordano is another example. He’s a professional plasterer that lives and works in the Bay Area of California. He’s created hundreds and hundreds of videos sharing his hard-earned knowledge about plaster and stucco installation. 

Kirk is a great teacher and has several videos that show you exactly how to make the plaster repair that Ann’s facing. What if I told you that you could have the repair completed start to finish in less than two hours? The plaster you need is probably in a bag at a local plaster distributor not too far from your home or you can buy it online and have it delivered to your home!

The special plaster trowel you need with the curved corners is also affordable and readily available. You’ll be blown away when you see how easy it is to apply the fresh plaster and trowel it so it’s smooth. If you completely botch the job, then just chop it out and try again. But I’m convinced that after watching Kirk’s videos, you’ll get it right the first time!

Column 1282

December 23, 2018 AsktheBuilder Newsletter

Are you a new subscriber? Thanks for your trust.  

Are you one of my friends, you know, you've been here long enough to start to get a handle on the situation? Thanks for maintaining our friendship.  

First and foremost, Merry Christmas!  

That's what I say. If you happen to celebrate a different holiday at this time of year, then please accept my best wishes for your tradition.  

But here at the Carter house, it's Christmas.  

I decided to share with you today a photo from a past Christmas day here in central New Hampshire where I live.  

The first image I came to brought a tear to my eye.  

It was a short video I shot last Christmas morning when no one was stirring but Lady the Dog and me.  

Lady, the Dog

CLICK HERE to watch the short video. Lady HATED to have her photo taken or video shot.  

Many people are like that including my wife. As you can see in the video, it was a picture-perfect Christmas morning with a deep base cover of snow and more falling from the sky!  

Little did I know, but it was to be Lady's last Christmas. Less than three months later, we had to send her back to Heaven. CLICK HERE to read the tribute I created for this amazing gift God gave us for just a little under ten years.  

Lady was indeed a gift.  

If you've ever owned a dog, you may agree that they could be the most perfect creature next to your soulmate, of course.  

Dogs tend to love you more than you might love yourself. Dogs deliver a constant flow of dopamine to your brain. This is why it's so painful when they pass away. You go cold turkey without the dopamine surges.

RIP Lady. Thanks for all the great times we had together.  

More Thanks  

This time of year I disconnect. I focus on family and friends. I think about what's ahead and how I can be happier than the year before.  

This Christmas will go on record at the Carter house as one of the most interesting ones. Here's just a partial list of reasons:

  • our youngest daughter was able to come home for the first time from Puerto Rico where she's been working the past ten months
  • my son got a fantastic job a little over two weeks ago and moves into his new loft apartment the day after Christmas
  • my oldest daughter moved to Bar Harbor, Maine, two months ago and I'm helping her and my son-in-law build their new home

I just got back from Bar Harbor two days ago after spending all week up there taking hundreds of photos and shooting several hours of video of the building process.  

Prefabricated floor trusses, wall panels and special attic trusses were specified for the build. These are all built in climate-controlled factories. The precision is to the 1/16th of an inch or LESS.  

Miguel, the lead carpenter on the job, was heard to say multiple times this past week, "There ain't no sixteenths in framing!"   

That's why they call it rough framing in case you didn't know.  

Here's a photo of the house on Thursday afternoon after Miguel and his crew completed the installation of the subfloor up on the second story.   It's important to realize that they didn't start setting first-floor floor trusses until about 8 am on Tuesday morning!

You'll be hearing lots more about prefabricated wall panels in the upcoming months. I was never able to use them when I was building as the industry was just gearing up for the most part.  

Jody Patterson, the builder working with my daughter had this to say about the prefabricated wall panels and floor trusses on Thursday morning, "The only other time I've used them is when I was a carpenter working for another builder. With it getting harder and harder to find qualified field carpenters, all I can say is these panels are so easy to work with that from now on it's ALL I'm going to use. I doubt we'll ever stick-frame a house in the field again. Can you believe how much progress we've made in just 72 hours?"    

What's Happening The Next Few Months  

I don't know if I've mentioned it before, but I'm doing all the plumbing, radiant heating and electric installation in my daughter's home.  

We start in earnest doing all this work on Friday, January 4th.  

Prepare your eyes and ears.  

Rest assured I'll be taking hundreds of photos of the process as well as shooting some run-and-gun videos of what we're doing. It's a RARE opportunity to capture things I wish I could have captured with electrons thirty years ago when I was still building each day.  

This newsletter is going to morph over the next few months to chronicle the entire process. I'll be so busy the next month that all I may do is send out photos to you and some ROUGH un-edited video clips for you to watch. Some may contain funny footage that would go on an outtake reel.  

I ask for your patience during this process as in the spring, I'll be creating countless new articles based on the HUNDREDS of photos and video clips. In other words, please hold any questions you may have until such time as you get to read what you're seeing in the photos. I just won't have time to answer you over the next few weeks and months.  

Here's some of what you'll see:  

Cast iron waste and vent piping - why? CLICK HERE

PEX domestic water & radiant floor heat - why? CLICK HERE

Wall-hung mini combination boiler - why? CLICK HERE

12-gauge circuit wiring instead of 14-gauge - why? CLICK HERE    

You and AsktheBuilder.com  

I want you to realize you're an important part of my life. Your positive feedback is a source of energy for me. I appreciate your comments, your emails, and all the stories you share about how I've been able to help you save time and money.  

I continue to wake up each day enjoying creating content to help you. I feel the path put in front of me the past twenty-five years was not just a chance happening.  

It's my belief I was selected to do a brain dump to help you and those who have yet to be born. It's so important to curate hard-earned knowledge that we know works.  

For example, how cool would it have been for the Egyptians to leave a few chiseled stone tablets showing EXACTLY how they built the Great Pyramids?   How marvelous would it have been for the Chinese to leave drawings of how they built the Great Wall on such steep terrain? Can you even lift a small boulder and place it on a hillside? Have you seen photos of the size of some of the stones the Chinese used to construct the Great Wall?

Think of all the tradespeople that take their secrets to the grave with them so others have to do trial and error to regain that knowledge.  

This is what Ask the Builder is all about. I'm trying to preserve forever all the things I know that have worked well for decades so you and others can save lots of sweet moola.  

That's what the next three months is all about. Capturing images and video footage that will help you and others.  

Wish me luck and pray I don't freeze to death up on Mt. Desert Island!  

I'll be wearing my new Dickies coveralls to help prevent that. CLICK HERE to see them and photos of my hat honoring my favorite football team.  

MERRY CHRISTMAS to you and yours!  

Tim Carter
Founder - www.AsktheBuilder.com
Certified Organic Cleaner Man - www.StainSolver.com
Morse of Course Man - www.W3ATB.com  

Do It Right, Not Over!

Dickies Sanded Flex Coveralls

dickies flex coveralls

My Dickies Flex Coveralls are keeping me warm and dry working in Downeast Maine on a frigid winter morning! Copyright 2018 Tim Carter

Dickies Sanded Flex Coveralls - Warm & Dry

I had the good fortune to have a pair of Dickies Sanded Flex Coveralls on while I was overseeing the construction of my daughter's home in Downeast Maine in late December, 2018. (This column was SO GOOD that I shared with the 31,000 subscribers who read both my December 23, 2018 and March 3, 2019 AsktheBuilder Newsletter.)

Coveralls are a great way to stay warm. Here are the other reasons why I prefer to wear them:

  • easy to put on or take off
  • easy to access pockets of normal pants under the coveralls
  • eliminate wind chill

You wear normal clothes under the coveralls. They cover all your clothes. Pretty clever name, right? Copyright 2018 Tim Carter

What are the Dickies zippers like?

There are three zippers for the Dickies Flex Coveralls. One at the bottom of each leg so the calf portion opens wide allowing you to put the coveralls on with boots on.

The third zipper is the main one on the front. It is extra long allowing you access to your belt buckle on your pants and anything below that. This main zipper is also long enough so you can take the coveralls off easily.

It's hard to see the detail since the coveralls are black, but there are two chest pockets with snaps and there are two rear pockets. You also have smaller side pockets on each side. My only suggestion would be to make these side pockets deeper.

How is the Sizing?

Overall you want to order a size bigger than what you'd normally wear. I wear large shirts so I ordered an XL set of coveralls.

The inseam is the tough part. They come in just a few lengths and I ordered the shortest one. I estimate the small length is actually an inseam of about 34 inches. My normal inseam on pants is 29 inches. I had to get giant pins and roll up the legs about 4 inches so they wouldn't drag.

Do They Have Stretch Cuffs?

Yes, the sleeves have an inner elastic cuff that keeps out wind. This is a nice feature.

Is the Collar Soft?

Yes, the collar is very soft and can be flipped up. If you want to keep your neck really warm, get the Dickies accessory hood that has a long felt neck cover that fits down inside the coveralls.

December 19, 2018 AsktheBuilder Newsletter

Are you a brand new subscriber? Welcome and thanks for your trust. Honorable subscriber of record? Thanks for remaining on the list. You're a blessing! 

This is going to be a pictorial newsletter as I'm up in Bar Harbor right now getting ready for my third day of taping hours of video footage of the framing of my daughter and son-in-law's new home. I'm also taking hundreds of high-resolution photos.

Over the next few months, you're going to be treated to some tasty construction eye candy, that's for sure. 

The last issue I shared a photo of the foundation and you may have been one who wondered why the house only sports a crawlspace instead of a full basement. 

There are two reasons:

  • ledge
  • not enough fall across the lot to support foundation drain tile that would daylight

If you blast a hole in solid granite for a full basement and you can't have a trench extend to daylight where ground water would flow on its way to the ocean, then in short order you end up with a covered swimming pool instead of a bone-dry basement that would be the pride of the Atacama Desert. 

If this describes your home - one that doesn't have its drain tile pop out of the ground allowing water to flow by gravity - then you must have a sump pump that does its best to keep your basement dry.

CLICK HERE NOW to get a feel for the best way to install drain tile in your home. I loath sump pumps for any number of reasons - primarily they fail when you most need them. Sump pumps with the most capacity need electricity to operate and electricity can be in short supply during horrible storms that produce vast quantities of rainwater that enter the sump.

Once your electricity goes out, your basement starts to fill with water. Too bad so sad. All that pain could be avoided by purchasing a lot that allows you to have a drain tile that extends to daylight. 

Rest assured that I'll be writing many new columns about what you see in the following photos. I've already started a MASSIVE audio series featuring SHORT six-to-seven minute episodes about each step of the process. CLICK  HERE to listen to these short episodes.

framing start

The above photo was taken about 90 minutes after the framing crew started to work on Monday morning. The first task was to shovel all the snow out of the crawlspace! Note the round steel columns, better known as lally columns, that will be used to support the massive LVL beam running the length of the house.

floor trusses

You're looking at floor trusses. These are being used instead of traditional solid floor joists. 

You'll discover quite soon why I specified these in the home. These are not too tall and the reason for that is because tall floor trusses on a first floor create problems at exterior doors. Once again, I'll be explaining all this in videos, future podcasts and in articles on my website. 

CLICK HERE to discover lots more about fantastic floor trusses.

lvl beam

Miguel is on the left. He's the foreman of the crew. John is on the right side of the giant LVL beam. Miguel is like the Energizer Bunny.

pipe cutter lally column

Miguel is using a special pipe cutter to cut a lally column that goes under the giant LVL beam. Pauley is helping to hold the column steady and John is pondering why he's working in the misting rain and cold. Once again, try to hold all your questions about what's going on. Believe me in upcoming newsletters, I'll explain EVERYTHING you're seeing in the photos.

end of cut lally column

This is the end of the lally column once it's cut. Do you know what that is inside the column and more importantly, WHY it's in there? No worries - I'm going to explain all of it to you quite soon!

smaller LVL beam is being placed on top of the main LVL

A smaller LVL beam is being placed on top of the main LVL and the foundation wall. This beam will transfer a concentrated load from the second floor floor-truss system down to the earth. It's all about continuous load pathways when it comes to structural support in your home.

This is what the house looked like yesterday about 10:45 in the morning. The Advantech subflooring was about to be installed. That was finished by 1:00 pm.

prefabricated walls delivery

At 1:25 pm yesterday, the delivery truck started dropping off the prefabricated walls for the first floor and the garage. Yes the walls were made in a factory about 150 miles away and trucked to the site. 

Factory-built wall panels allow for much greater precision. Building the walls under a giant factory roof keeps all the materials DRY. 

Prefabricated walls allow the crews to shave days, and in some instances weeks, off the schedule. That's very important when building in Downeast Maine in the winter.  

CLICK HERE to travel to the Structural Building Components Association Best Way to Frame website. You'll discover a treasure trove of things about floor trusses, prefabricated walls and any roof truss you might imagine.

wall panels stacked

All the wall panels are stacked on the floor in pre-determined piles so there is zero wasted motion standing them up and putting them around the subfloor exactly where they belong. 

I'll be leaving to go tape more video in about an hour. It's Wednesday morning about 7:09 am as I type these words. 

That's enough for now. I'll be wearing my Dickies Flex coveralls today as I did yesterday. They do a superb job of keeping me warm! 

Tim Carter
Founder - www.AsktheBuilder.com
Certified Organic Cleaner Man - www.StainSolver.com
Morse Mania - www.W3ATB.com 

Do It Right, Not Over!

Stop Water Vapor Now and Window Condensation Woes

yellow plastic vapor retarder

The yellow plastic vapor retarder you see is a very special product. It’s far better than the low-priced rolls of clear plastic you might see at a home center. (C) Copyright 2018 Tim Carter

Stop Water Vapor Now

QUESTION #1: Hey Tim, I’m flummoxed. I’ve seen videos and read online articles about needing a vapor barrier in the walls of my home and possibly under concrete slabs. My builder says these things are a waste of money. I need your vote of confidence and written words to give me the strength to demand they be used. What are these materials, do they work, and where would you use them in your home? Janet A., Long Island, NY

Have you ever been rolled over by a builder, remodeler or salesperson? In the past week, it happened to my son-in-law and my son! Knowledge is power and the person with the gold makes the rules. Those are two axioms I’m continuing to pound into my kids and their spouses.

It’s very important to realize that vapor is very hard to stop. That’s why it’s best to call the products vapor retarders, not vapor barriers. I can tell you unequivocally they’re fantastic products and I’d use them in my house in certain areas all the time and in other places sometimes.

I’ve got lots of past articles and videos at my own AsktheBuilder.com website about vapor retarders and barriers, but you should also go to an authoritative website - BuildingScience.com - for some amazing facts and figures.

Another key point is to realize like other products there are different levels of quality when it comes to vapor retarders. Some products are cheap and do a so-so job of blocking vapor. If you spend a few more dollars, you can get superior products. I only buy ones that pass the ASTM E1745 test. (Read more on the ASTM E1745 products in my New High Performance Vapor Retarders column.)

Water vapor lives in the soil unless your home is in the Atacama Desert where you may find trace amounts. But normal soil is damp and the water vapor is constantly trying to get up into the air. You want to keep this vapor in the soil under your basement slab and out of your crawlspace. High-performance vapor retarders like the one above do just that. Water vapor in basements and garages can rust equipment and tools and lead to mold growth on walls.

Water vapor can cause severe wood rot in walls of modern homes. This happens primarily in cold or hot climates. You’ve surely taken a cold beverage can outdoors on a humid summer day and seen the outside surface has water drops on it in a few minutes, right? The same thing can happen in your walls where water vapor can condense on the cool surface of exterior sheathing in a cold climate or the cool surface of drywall in a hot, humid climate when you have your AC on low.

A vapor retarder placed on the correct side of an exterior wall can stop wood rot, mold and mildew. Just do a little more research and you’ll discover exactly what to do in your climate. Gather the data and don’t get rolled by your builder or remodeler. After all, it’s your money and your castle. Protect it!

Window Condensation Woes

QUESTION #2: Tim, I’m really distressed. I spent over five figures on new efficient replacement windows. I invested in the new windows because my old windows had lots of condensation streaming down the glass. I still have some condensation forming on the new ones! What’s going on and did I get ripped off? Danny S., Springfield, MA

Condensation is the bane for many a homeowner. I clearly remember the water pouring off the single-pane steel casement windows of my childhood home each winter. My mom would routinely have me towel the window sills dry in my never-ending battle with the wretched water.

It’s possible you were ripped off depending on the quality of the replacement windows you purchased. My advice to all who message me on my AsktheBuilder.com website is to purchase replacement windows that carry the gold AAMA label. Windows that have this certification are the highest quality you can get.

But here’s the rub. I could install an AAMA gold-label window in your home perfectly using the latest expanding foam insulation and you still might have condensation. Here’s why:

Condensation forms when the temperature of a surface drops below the dew point of the air touching the surface. That might make your brain hurt so here’s an example. 

Imagine the outdoor temperature drops to minus 15 F one night. Even though your new windows have the best double-pane glass, the surface of the inner pane of glass in your home might drop down to 50 F while the outer pane of glass is at minus 15 F. If you have your humidifier set too high and the dew point of the air in your home is 51 F or higher, condensation is going to start to form on the glass.

The key to preventing window glass condensation is to lower the humidity in your home as the temperature drops outdoors. There are automatic controls that can do this for you.

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