Why Doesn’t My Shower Work?

Posted on January 31, 2019 by Tim Carter

Why Doesn't My Shower Work? | Is it bitter cold outside? Did your shower work yesterday? Odds are the water in the vertical pipe from the valve to the shower head is frozen solid. Copyright 2019 Tim Carter

Why Doesn't My Shower Work? | Frozen Riser Pipe Probably!

"A shower can stop working if the water pipes in the wall freeze solid. A polar vortex causes bitter cold air to drop down into the wall."

Tim Carter - Founder, askthebuilder.com

Did your shower work yesterday? Are you experiencing a polar vortex shot of bitter cold air in your city or town?

Your shower is not working because the vertical pipe that leads from the valve up to the shower head is frozen. The water lines feeding the valve could be frozen too.

How Can Water Freeze in the Riser Pipe?

When you turn off your shower, there is water still in the riser pipe between the shower valve and the shower head. This water can't drain back through the valve.

When it gets cold outside, your attic gets as cold as the outside and bitter cold air can drop down through holes in the top plate of the frame walls behind the shower.

How Can I Thaw the Pipes?

You need to get heat into the wall. This is not easy. Often your only hope is to wait for warmer weather and heat from the bathroom will naturally thaw the frozen pipes.

Can the Pipes Burst?

The riser pipe between the valve and the shower head will not burst. The expanding water in the pipe forces water to drip out of the shower head.

The water lines feeding the valve can burst. Now is the time to discover how to shut off the water in your home should a pipe burst and water start to flood out of a wall or ceiling.

CLICK HERE to get FREE BIDS from local plumbers to fix your frozen shower.

Can Electric Wire Holes Be the Problem?

Yes, electricians drill holes in wall studs and wall plates to run their cables. If those holes are open to the attic and were never caulked closed, then cold air can pour down into the wall and freeze any water in the pipes.

What Can Be Done to Prevent the Freezing?

The holes and gaps in the top plates must be caulked tight so no air can flow down into the wall cavity. You'll have to wait for warmer weather to do this.

Footing Width and Depth

Posted on January 29, 2019 by Tim Carter

"A footing is just like the foot on your leg. It spreads out the weight of the building onto the soil. Bigger is better!"
Tim Carter - Founder | AsktheBuilder.com

Footing Width and Depth - Do Both Right to Avoid #FAILURE

Footing width and depth are very important. A footing spreads out the weight of the entire building onto the soil. It works just like the foot on your leg.

How Wide Should a House Footing Be?

A house footing should be no less than 12 inches wide. Twenty inches would be a better width. It's important to realize that the little bit of concrete will be a wise investment as you only get one chance to install the footing.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST bids from local footing and foundation contractors.

What is the Best Depth for a Footing?

Footing depth can be confused with the thickness of a footing. Eight inches is the minimum thickness for a footing. Ten inches is better and twelve inches is highly desirable.

The depth of the footing in the ground depends on:

the local frost depth
how deep you need to go to be in solid strong soil

What Type of Steel Should be in the Footing?

You should put two continuous steel rods in the footing. The diameter should be no less than 1/2 inch. When you get to the end of one rod, overlap the next rod onto the first one at least 16 inches. Use baling wire to tie the two pieces of steel together.

January 29, 2019 AsktheBuilder Newsletter

Posted on January 29, 2019 by Tim Carter

Welcome if you're a brand-new subscriber. It's my hope you get lots of tips in upcoming issues.

Hello again dear friend if you've been here for a week, month or since 1996 when this newsletter started!

You Reply - I Listen!

I know this may shock you, but I read every single incoming email you may send to me. As often as possible, I respond back to you.

I don't know of any other home improvement website owner that does this. Do you?

Why do I read your messages?

In almost all cases, your input is fantastic. Take for example a message I received from Bob this past Sunday. I've met Bob before as he invited my son and I up to IL a few years back to watch a WW II reenactment.

Bob told me he was dealing with some wretched ice dams on his roof because his snow-melting wires malfunctioned.

He wrote, "I think you have explained how ice dams and freezing/melting weather backs water up under the shingles, resulting in water entering inside the exterior house walls, but maybe you should repeat this information as part of your thoughtful winter warnings."

Bob's right. I often fail to provide you with the Easy Button. I fail to give you relevant links to past columns and videos that might help you at a critical time.

You may live south of the Equator or down below the 30th parallel where it doesn't get too cold at all. Realize I've got plenty of hot-weather columns for you if you need help now. Just use the search engine at my website now to stay cool! Try it!

If you can't locate what you need, reach out to me.

Cold Weather HELP Columns

Please check out these columns right now if you need help figuring out how to solve a cold-weather problem:

Ice Dams - You Hate Them, Don't You?

WHY Ice Dams Form - Not Always Heat Leaking From Your Attic

Ice Dam VIDEO By Tim Carter - Yes Me!

My House is FREEZING COLD - Why?????

Cold House VIDEO by Tim Carter - Scroll Down To See It

Basement and Crawlspace Flooding

Last week we had 2.5 inches of rain here at my house in New Hampshire. My own garage started to flood because of an ice buildup on my driveway. I caught it in time before any damage happened. I was able to quickly create a channel for the rushing water to get to the lake instead of my tools!

But what about you? Are you going to have to deal with water in your basement or crawlspace with the Spring rain just around the corner? If you live where the ground is not frozen, NOW IS THE TIME to install one of my linear french drains.

Did you know I created an informative DVD to show you how to STOP water from entering your basement or crawlspace? Yeah, I know, I do a poor job of promoting my products that will help you.

CLICK HERE to discover what's in this cool DVD. It's professionally produced and it's mailed to you usually within 24 hours.

Here's what my buddy Fred has to say about how well my linear french drains STOP WATER infiltration:

Dear Tim,

I would like to take a moment to thank you for your advice on how to handle the significant water problem I had in the basement of my 1820's house (now serving as a B&B Inn). The chronic water influx that resulted from the new residential construction uphill from my place literally jeopardized both the safety and value of the Inn and its function.

Moisture damage and mold were making it an unhealthy to place to live - not to mention operate as a B&B. Your instructions as to how to install the linear french drain around the periphery, the depth and the appropriate slope requirements turned out to be the "Magic Bullet" which totally solved the problem.

The outflow from that trench drain actually became a small stream through all of the severely wet spring weather we have had this year. Being cautious, I had also installed a sump pump inside as a backup. That pump never even came on!

A really terrific aspect of the trench system is that it operates completely on its own without any energy input. Thanks to gravity and Ask the Builder, I have actually been able to paint the floor and now have additional workspace that was completely uninhabitable before the drain was installed. Your assistance was greatly appreciated.

Best regards,
Fred Hoffmeister

Maria Atwood Inn B&B
Franklin, NH

That's enough for a Tuesday.

Please read all those columns above if you live where it's cold. You'll discover how to PROTECT your home and how to stay warm.

Tim Carter
Founder - www.AsktheBuilder.com
Certified Organic Clean Man - www.StainSolver.com
Morse Code LIVES! - www.W3ATB.com

Do It Right, Not Over!

Footing Depth Below Grade

Posted on January 28, 2019 by Tim Carter

"The footing depth below grade is determined by two things: when you encounter strong soil and making sure you're below the local frost depth in your area."
Tim Carter - Founder | AsktheBuilder.com

Footing Depth Below Grade - Two Factors Control the Depth

The footing depth of your garage, house, or building depends on where you're building and how strong the soil is on your lot.

Cold climates create frozen soil in the winter. Water expands in the soil creating ice lenses. These layers of frost will lift a building out of the ground. Structural failure is guaranteed if the lifting is not equal around all sides of the building. It rarely is.

How Far Down Will Frost Penetrate?

Frost can penetrate as deep as 6 feet or deeper. It's hard to believe, but it's true.

The depth depends on how severe the winter cold is in the area you're building. Look at the following drawing to get an idea of different frost levels in different parts of the USA:

What is Strong Soil?

Strong soil is that which will support the weight of the building being placed on it. Topsoil is not strong. Any soil with organic waste or debris in it is not strong.

Dense clay soils that are red, brown and light brown are usually very strong. Your local building inspector or a soil engineer will gladly inspect the soil to ensure it will not sink under the weight of the building.

Should the Footing Be Level?

All sections of the footing should be level. A building constructed on a sloped lot will have a stepped footing so all sections of the footing are below the frost line. Look at the following photo to see a stepped footing.

Shed Repair Tips

Posted on January 28, 2019 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: I’ve got a quaint outdoor shed that I’ve neglected. The wood at the bottom is rotting and the shingles must be replaced. I need it more than ever and recently discovered it’s not to code in my county. I want to repair it and improve it but I’m told the shed has to be moved and enlarged. This makes me sad because it’s a perfect size and I like where it is on my lot. What are my options? Meghan C., Alexandria, VA?

DEAR MEGHAN: I’ve seen my fair share of neglected sheds that’s for sure. When I peered at the photos you sent me, I immediately saw one problem that led to the wood rot. The shed was placed or built too close to the soil. The rear of the shed has soil piled up against the wood.

You’ve come to the right place for help because not only was I a builder/remodeler for 30+ years, but I also served on my village’s planning and zoning board for eight years. I’ve got a fairly good grasp of zoning codes that restrict sheds and similar accessory structures.

It’s important to realize you may have received some bad advice. I discovered long ago to rarely trust the spoken word when it comes to zoning issues. I always get a copy of the zoning code and read it. I want to see exactly where it says such and such is not allowed. Ask the person who told you to move and enlarge it to point this out in the local current zoning documents.

First and foremost, your shed may not be in violation of the zoning code. I don’t have a copy of your zoning code, but it very likely has a grandfather clause. Simply put if something that was fine to do years ago has become illegal because of new regulations, the offending *thing* normally can stay in place.

However, some codes do have restrictions about the amount of improvement that can be done to a grandfathered shed or structure. You have to read your code and see what it says. If there’s an upper limit percentage of repair, you can sometimes jump through a loophole and make the repairs over a period of time so at no given time do you bump up against the upper limit of the allowable repairs.

Let’s assume you discover you can repair the shed and it can stay in its current location. Here’s the laundry list of how I’d proceed with the repairs.

I would strongly urge you to raise the shed up into the air so the bottom of the wood siding is at least 6 inches away from the soil. Since sheds don’t weigh much, three smaller hydraulic car jacks may be all you need. Perhaps a few neighbors have these.

You’ll have to probably slide a new 4x4 under the existing floor beams on each side of the shed to lift it. The hydraulic jacks will be set under this 4x4, two under one 4x4 and the third one in the middle of the other 4x4. You’ll pump all three jack handles so the shed pops up out of the ground, is level front to back and side to side, and is at the right height. Place a solid concrete block under the 4x4s or the floor beams to provide solid support between the shed and the soil.

Most homeowners don’t think about wind, but it can be a major concern with outdoor sheds like yours. Strong winds can cause a shed, or even a small house, to tumble across your yard. Investigate using hold-down anchors to make sure your shed stays put when the next fierce thunderstorm, or worse, blasts through your backyard.

The rotted portions of the wood siding can be replaced with new siding. You can go back with wood, but you may want to choose fiber cement as it will last longer. You just have to cut away the rotten wood by coming up a foot or so and cut a nice straight line.

You’ll have to slide a piece of z-flashing up under the remaining siding after you make this cut. But before you do that, paint the fresh cut edge of the existing siding with two or three coats of paint. This will help prevent wood rot in the future. The top of the z-flashing slides up behind the existing siding and the front edge laps over the top of the replacement siding.

The roof shingles are perhaps the easiest part of the project. Use a flat garden spade to remove the shingles and inspect the sheathing to ensure there’s no rot. If you detect rotten roof sheathing, replace it.

There are countless decent videos on YouTube that show you how to install simple asphalt shingles. It’s key to have a metal drip edge on the sides and bottom edge. Some shingle manufacturers have installation videos that show what to do. You’ll be amazed at how easy it is to install shingles and since you’re not that high up, it’s relatively safe.

Keep in mind that if you install a thin piece of copper 6 to 12 inches wide at the top of the shingles on both sides of the roof, you’ll never have to install new shingles again in your lifetime. I discovered three years ago that copper that washes down onto shingles prevents asphalt from becoming brittle. This means your new shingles can last for 40 or 50 years!

Column 1286

Footing Detail

Posted on January 26, 2019 by Tim Carter

Footing Detail - Concrete + Steel + Great Soil

A footing is quite possibly the most important detail in construction. A footing is what contacts the earth or soil and it distributes the total load, or weight of the building, so it doesn't sink into the ground.

What are the Details of a Footing?

A typical footing detail consists of:

poured concrete a minimum of 8 inches thick - and often up to 12 inches thick
continuous reinforcing steel rods - a minimum of 1/2-inch in diameter
drainage sleeves to allow ground water to pass under the structure on its way to the ocean or sea

How Important is Good Soil?

Good soil is very important. Never pour a footing on:

compressible top soil
smelly clay soil that contains organic rotting debris
uncompacted fill dirt

Bad, or poor, soil will sink and the result is a structural failure of the house or the structure. If you're in doubt about the quality of the soil, hire an independent inspector. Most cities and towns require the building inspector to visit the job site before the concrete is poured to ensure the soil is strong.

How Strong Should the Concrete Be?

The poured concrete should have a PSI (pounds per square inch) compressive strength of at least 3,000 PSI. A builder may say that 2,500 PSI is fine, but pay the extra money for the 3,000 PSI mix.

My Footing Width and Depth column has addition information regarding footers.

January 26, 2019 AsktheBuilder Emergency Alert

Posted on January 26, 2019 by Tim Carter

If you're new, I do these alerts in certain situations.

A severe Arctic blast of frigid air is starting to invade the central and eastern USA. If you live in northern Michigan or Minnesota, it's already at your doorstep.

I know WX people tend to overhype the weather, but this could create historic cold temperatures in certain cities.

TODAY is the day to start to prepare.

Do the following NOW:

Locate all extra clothing, hats, gloves, long underwear, etc. and have them ready to put on to stay warm in your home. Your furnace or boiler will NOT BE ABLE to keep your home at 70 F.

Go out and purchase a portable electric heater if necessary to help ward off the cold and prevent frozen pipes.

Locate and know how to turn off your main water supply in case pipes freeze.

CLICK HERE to read how to PREVENT water pipes from freezing.

Turn off water to unused bathrooms/fixtures and OPEN the faucet valve to relieve pressure. If the pipes freeze the open valve will prevent pipes from bursting as the ice will force water out of the valve.

BEWARE of extension cords! CLICK HERE NOW to prevent burning your home to the ground!!! Use the correct size!!

The bottom line is to GO OUT TODAY and get what you need to protect yourself or your home.

Use common sense. Think about what you're going to do IF you lose power, or your furnace dies, or ???? Don't try to make those decisions under pressure in two or three days.

Good luck.

Tim Carter

Founder - www.AsktheBuilder.com

Do It Right, Not Over!

Water Damaged Drywall

Posted on January 24, 2019 by Tim Carter

Water Damaged Drywall Doesn't Always Have to be Ripped Out

"Test the ceiling with your fingers. Poke at it. If it seems as hard as drywall that has not gotten wet, you may have dodged the bullet."

DEAR TIM: A water line burst in our home and created a significant leak. We were home and able to contain most of the water, but quite a bit got through the floor ruining the drywall ceiling in the basement. Is there an easy way to deal with water-damaged drywall? Can we just wait for it to dry and then repaint it? How do you make the determination as to whether or not you have to cut out the ceiling and start over? Susie W., Baltimore, MD

DEAR SUSIE: For over three decades I’ve been dealing with drywall that’s suffered the indignity of getting wet. Sometimes we’ve saturated the drywall with water on purpose at the job site to get it to bend, but most times a roof leak, foundation leak, plumbing misfortune or chronic condensation causes drywall to fail.

Water damaged this ceiling and the ruined drywall was cut out so that new drywall can be installed and finished. PHOTO CREDIT: Tim Carter

I can clearly remember past calls from shocked customers who’ve lost entire ceilings where, without notice, the drywall crashes to the floor. The weight of the water and loss of structural integrity of the gypsum core causes the drywall panels to tear away from the fasteners. It usually happens at the worst possible moment.

How Much Water Needs to Leak?

You may not feel much water leaked, but it doesn’t take too much to create a disaster. The first signs to look for with respect to the ceiling falling are depressions around the fasteners. You’ll see small dimples form as the drywall surrounding the nails or screws succumbs to gravity and starts to droop leaving an upside down crater. If you see this happening, move all valuables and furniture from the room in anticipation of a ceiling collapse.

What Does a Bubble in the Paint Mean?

If you see a bubble or droop start to happen in the drywall there could be ponding water on the other side. Use a nail or other punch to create a drain hole allowing the water to escape. Capture it with a bucket.

How Can I Test For Damage?

Test the ceiling with your fingers. Poke at it. If it seems as hard as drywall that has not gotten wet, you may have dodged the bullet. But if the drywall seems soft or spongy, you’re going to be best served by cutting out the damaged section before it sags and possibly falls. Cut carefully as all sorts of wires, cables, water lines, radiant heating pipes, etc. can be just on the other side of the drywall.

Is it Hard to Repair the Drywall?

Repairing water-damaged drywall is not too hard. Ceilings are absolutely the hardest if you’re not a professional. Working over your head is not easy, and getting the repair to blend in with the rest of the ceiling will be tough to achieve if you’re not highly experienced at finishing drywall.

What is the First Step to Repair the Drywall?

It’s best to try to cut out the wet drywall as soon as possible so that you minimize any mold growth. Mold spores are absolutely hidden in the ceiling, the temperature is perfect, and they have food. The only ingredient missing was water, and now it’s present. Mold can bloom within days if you don’t act.

Be sure to wear goggles or other eye protection as you remove the damaged drywall. The last thing you need right now is a scratched cornea from a nugget of gypsum that falls into your eye.

How Do You Cut Out the Old Drywall?

One of the biggest challenges in getting the ceiling ready for a new piece of drywall is cutting back the water-soaked drywall to the center of one of the ceiling joists. This is accomplished with any number of tools from a sharp razor knife to a reciprocating saw held at a low angle so the blade just cuts into the drywall and not the wood joist.

Here's a new drywall cutting blade that fits in an electric reciprocating saw. It's perfect for cutting holes in drywall on walls and ceilings but not the things hidden behind the drywall! CLICK HERE or photo to have these special blades delivered to your home.

You can also cut to the side of a joist and then nail on a scab or sister 2x2 that will be the lath catcher for the new drywall. Just be sure the bottom of the framing material is flush with the bottom of the existing joist. If it’s lower, you’ll end up with an unsightly hump in the ceiling.

What Should I Do With a Large Blister?

The leaking water can sometimes create a massive water blister in latex paint on a ceiling. You may mistake this for ruined drywall that has a bulge when in fact the drywall may not have to be replaced. Prick the large blister and let all water drain out.

The day after the leak, do the test with your finger to see how stiff the drywall is. If it’s solid, you may just have to repaint and not replace drywall. The key is to minimize the amount of water that saturates the drywall. I’ve seen many a drywall ceiling that dries out and survives. It’s not unusual at all.

If you’re worried that the drywall might fall from the ceiling at a later date, you can always install additional screws. If you’ve got one-half-inch-thick drywall, then use 1 and 1/4-inch coarse thread screws. Be sure the drywall screw is countersunk about 1/16th of an inch. If you go any further, you’ll tear the paper around the bugle-head screw rendering it ineffective.

Column 873

DXV Fitzgerald Sink Remodel

Posted on January 23, 2019 by Tim Carter

DXV Fitzgerald Sink - A New Sink Perfect for Restoration Work

Here's the DXV Fitzgerald sink after it was installed. Look below to see how incredible the transformation was. This magnificent period sink was perfect for the ongoing restoration of an early 1900s Craftsman house in southern California owned by one of my best friends. Copyright 2019 Tim Carter

My very good friends Russ and Ann live in a stunning early 1900s Craftsman home in southern California. Russ grew up in the house and he and his wife Ann love each and every inch of it. I've stayed there countless times and look forward to each upcoming visit.

Russ loves old things and is doing painstaking work to restore the house to its original look and feel. Back in the 1970s his mom and dad remodeled the first-floor bathroom installing the latest trend at that time - a stylish wood vanity and a cultured-marble top. The original pedestal sink and faucet were ripped out and taken to a landfill.

This is the first-floor bathroom before work began. At some point in the past, the stunning stained woodwork was painted. Ann spent countless hours stripping the layers of paint to bring it back to its original look. Copyright 2019 Tim Carter

After removing the wretched wood vanity, Russ and Ann discovered they needed to update the failing galvanized iron drain line and water pipes. The plaster suffered as a result. The plaster under the board with the towel was re-attached to the wood lath using a spray foam. Pressure was applied with the horizontal board until the foam cured. Ann watched a few of Kirk Giordano's plaster repair videos on YouTube and completed the entire patch herself never having done plaster work before. She did a magnificent job. Copyright 2019 Tim Carter

Isn't this DXV Fitzgerald sink breathtaking? When you install a period American Standard faucet with the sink, you'd fool all but a few experts into thinking it was original with the house. I love the slightly rounded platform under the center of the faucet. What do you think? Type a comment below.
CLICK or TAP HERE NOW to see how affordable this sink is. I'll bet you guess high!
Copyright 2019 Tim Carter

Admit it now. If you were about to wash your hands at this Fitzgerald sink you'd think it was 100+ years old. Isn't the faucet stunning?
CLICK HERE now if you want to buy this high-quality sink that's made in the USA. Copyright 2019 Tim Carter

Behold the sleek shape and lines of the DXV Fitzgerald pedestal. Didn't Ann do a spectacular job on the plaster patch? CLICK HERE to have the Fitzgerald sink delivered to your doorstep. Copyright 2019 Tim Carter

I think you can see why Russ and Ann chose to use the Fitzgerald sink. They both feel it adds tremendous value to their home. It also makes them feel happy each time they look at it and use it. Ann intends to do some faux painting on the walls. I'll add those photos when available. CLICK HERE to have this Fitzgerald sink delivered to your home in days. It comes in white or a soft biscuit color.

January 22, 2019 AsktheBuilder Newsletter

Posted on January 22, 2019 by Tim Carter

If you're a new subscriber, I'm glad you're here. If you've been around the block a time or two or three with me, thanks for staying on the list.

The New House Saga

I announced a month or so ago that this newsletter, over the next six months, was going to focus on the construction of my daughter and son-in-law's new home on Mt. Desert Island in Downeast Maine.

Right now the project is temporarily stalled because of the miserable winter weather up there. I've built in the winter in cold climates and it's by no means fun nor is it advised.

CLICK HERE to read what I have to say about Building in Bad Weather.

Everything takes more time. Workers are bundled up in heavy clothes, certain tools don't work (pneumatic nailers and hoses FREEZE up), certain products (PEX and vinyl siding) are almost impossible to work with, etc. Snow and ice make for dangerous working conditions.

You may have been one who asked why in the world the project was launched with winter on the doorstep? Well, there were a number of small delays that added up over the summer and these translated to a lot-clearing date of mid-October.

There's a heightened sense of urgency to get the project done as soon as possible and I'm not going to tell you why just yet. This is why all are trying their best to keep the job moving.

Help ID a Tool

Can you help me identify the yellow floor-scraper tool used in a video on my website? I've tried to locate it on Amazon, but have been unsuccessful.

CLICK HERE to watch the video to make sure you're looking at the correct tool.

Just reply to me with the tool name, the manufacturer, or better yet a link to it on Amazon.com. Thanks in advance.

Regulating Influencers

Do you know what an Influencer is? Do you follow any on different social media platforms? Many PR people in my vertical consider me a home improvement influencer.

You may want to read this recent article that exposes some of the unethical Influencer practices that are rife out on the Internet.

If there are other influencers you follow and rely on, I URGE (beg) you to read their disclosure page at their website where they share their belief system and how they make decisions on what wares to ply to you. Don't know that word, ply? Look it up when used as a verb.

You may want to read a page that's been on my website for many years to see how I make my decisions about what products I tell you about.

CLICK HERE to read it.

The Cliffs Notes version is simple. I only tell you about products I'd use myself. I only tape videos about products that are really good.

In less than two weeks, I'm going to be devoting an entire newsletter to a product that I've used on my jobs for decades. I've used them on the last house I built for my family. I have them in my current house here in New Hampshire.
What is this fantastic product? You'll have to wait and see. When I do share it with you, there will be lots of links to click. You'll be helping yourself and me when you click those links, believe me.

I'm going to end with this. I feel we need more integrity in the world. Right now I'm witnessing an alarming trend of degraded ethics, morals, and common decency. Are you seeing it too? Are you troubled by it? What do you think is behind the trends?

Are you aware that both videos and audio recordings you may see/hear out on the Internet can be completely faked? About fifteen years ago, a talented sound engineer that used to record commercials at the radio station my Ask the Builder two-hour call-in show was on did a demonstration for me one day.

After recording a commercial or two for my show he handed me a piece of paper with random words and phrases on it. He asked me to speak them into the microphone.

I did it, he thanked me and I left the recording suite to go about my business.

A week later he had me come into the production studio and listen to a tape of myself talking. I had never recorded what I heard.

He CREATED A FAKE RECORDING OF ME USING the words and phrases I spoke for him a week earlier. He did it as a joke just to show me what was possible.

It was creepy.

Remember, that was fifteen years ago and we have far better technology now.

I'm only sharing all this because I want you to realize that there's more and more DANGER out there each day when it comes to what you may be seeing, hearing or reading.

I'll end with this when it comes to Influencer things you see/hear. A wise attorney that was a fellow councilman in my village back in Ohio shared a saying that relates to this discussion.

Did you know I was elected to public office twice? Yep, I was a councilman in Amberley Village, Ohio for two terms.

Lou, the attorney, said one day at a committee meeting, "Tim, a half truth is a WHOLE LIE."

It hit home with me because I was doing lots of expert witness work at the time and each time I was deposed or put on a witness stand in a courtroom I had to swear: "I promise to tell the truth, the WHOLE truth, and nothing but the truth."

That's why a half-truth is a whole lie. If you don't have all the facts, then you'll make a wrong decision.

Don't get half-truths told to you by an Influencer.

Larry's Son - Cracking Drywall and Nail Pops

A few days ago Larry left this comment at the bottom of a column at my website about Rain Soaked Framing Lumber:

"My son's new home was under construction. The builder dragged his feet and didn't put the roof on. The framing was complete. The house sat for weeks exposed to heavy rains. Now the sheetrock is cracking at the seams and screw heads popping. Is the builder liable? Can the bank do anything to help my son to stand behind him?"

What a dreadful situation. Here are the answers:

Yes, the builder is liable - assuming Larry's son has a great contract with a reasonable warranty.

The bank that made the construction loan will undoubtedly do NOTHING to help in the situation. All they care about is Larry's son to make his monthly loan payments.

I told Larry that he and his son came to me too late. I told him, and it's NOT EASY to type this to a visitor to my website, that he and his son should have done their due diligence BEFORE the house was built and at the very least while it was raining on the unroofed house.

Asking for help after the defects start to surface is just too late in the game.

I'm only sharing this with you to try to impress upon you that it's YOUR RESPONSIBILITY to PROTECT your MONEY and your ASSETS.

Don't assume others think about your things the way you do. That's very foolish.

Don't be a taken for a chump, a goober, or a dumdum.

I'd say that's quite enough for a Tuesday where it was -1 F when I woke up!

Tim Carter
Founder - www.AsktheBuilder.com
Mr. Clean Man - www.StainSolver.com
Code is Cool - www.W3ATB.com

Do It Right, Not Over!

Why Doesn't My Shower Work? | Frozen Riser Pipe Probably!

How Can Water Freeze in the Riser Pipe?

How Can I Thaw the Pipes?

Can the Pipes Burst?

Can Electric Wire Holes Be the Problem?

What Can Be Done to Prevent the Freezing?

Footing Width and Depth - Do Both Right to Avoid #FAILURE

How Wide Should a House Footing Be?

What is the Best Depth for a Footing?

What Type of Steel Should be in the Footing?

You Reply - I Listen!

Cold Weather HELP Columns

Basement and Crawlspace Flooding

Footing Depth Below Grade - Two Factors Control the Depth

How Far Down Will Frost Penetrate?

What is Strong Soil?

Should the Footing Be Level?

Footing Detail - Concrete + Steel + Great Soil

What are the Details of a Footing?

How Important is Good Soil?

How Strong Should the Concrete Be?

Water Damaged Drywall Doesn't Always Have to be Ripped Out

"Test the ceiling with your fingers. Poke at it. If it seems as hard as drywall that has not gotten wet, you may have dodged the bullet."

How Much Water Needs to Leak?

What Does a Bubble in the Paint Mean?

How Can I Test For Damage?

Is it Hard to Repair the Drywall?

What is the First Step to Repair the Drywall?

How Do You Cut Out the Old Drywall?

What Should I Do With a Large Blister?

DXV Fitzgerald Sink - A New Sink Perfect for Restoration Work

The New House Saga

Help ID a Tool

Regulating Influencers

Larry's Son - Cracking Drywall and Nail Pops

Expert Advice For Your Home