Out in nature when it rains on soil, most of the water goes into the ground. Yeah, this column is about drainage paving stones, but you need to know something first.
I say this assuming:
it's not a downpour
the soil is not saturated from days of rain
the soil isn't frozen
or some other condition
DISCLAIMER:My college degree is in geology, so I can talk about this with a fair amount of authority. 😉
This rain water eventually might flow into the bedrock to help recharge and maintain the groundwater supply.
It can also flow across the top of a dense layer of deep-clay subsoil or where the bedrock comes close to the surface and then pop back out of the ground. This is how a natural spring works.
Blacktop, concrete, old-style paving brick house roofs, etc. disrupt this natural process. These surfaces can cause rainwater to bypass the soil and travel directly to storm sewers.
When this happens, the ground water gets starved for moisture.
New Drainage Paving Stones
New style paving stones are now available that have gaps between the stones that allow water to get back into the soil. Brilliant!
The gaps are filled with tiny pieces of crushed or rounded gravel. Smart!
I took this photo at the WW II museum in New Orleans in April, 2017. Look at how the water can get into the soil. CLICK THE PHOTO NOW TO GET FREE & FAST BIDS FROM LOCAL PATIO CONTRACTORS THAT CAN INSTALL THIS EARTH-FRIENDLY PAVING STONE AT YOUR HOME.
Gravity hot water system | This is the top of a gas water heater. The hot water leaves the tank on the left side. The recirculating loop pipe re-enters the tank down at the drain valve below.
Gravity Hot Water System TIPS
Easy to install in ranch homes with a basement or crawl space
Works using the magic of convection - no electricity or pump needed
"A gravity hot water system works because the heated water, which is lighter, rises through the loop. As the water cools at the end of the loop where the last part of the loop is not insulated, it is thermo-siphoned back into the hot water heater."
DEAR TIM: I am not a big fan of cold showers. I have to wait 15 - 20 seconds each morning for hot water to arrive in my shower.
It seems like a terrible waste of water and money. Is there a way to avoid this?
Can something be done to my ranch house? Is it possible for a DIY'r to accomplish the remedy? H. O.
DEAR H.O.: Brrrrrr! I know the feeling.
Cold Showers Not Acceptable
Cold showers are a bummer. Guess what? We can solve your problem with a simple gravity hot water recirculating loop. They're effective, inexpensive and easy to install.
Do You Waste Water?
First, however, I want to put into perspective the waste situation. Clean water is a natural resource and should not be wasted if you're getting it from a municipal water system.
Until your loop is operational, why not capture the shower water with a bucket? Use it to water plants or to fill your washing machine.
Free & Fast BIDS
What is the Actual Cost of Wasted Water?
The cost of the wasted water is minuscule. Let's assume you pay only 1.5 cents for each cubic foot of water (that was my rate when I wrote this column).
If you have 25 feet of 3/4 inch water pipe between your hot water heater and the shower, you waste .076 cubic feet of water each morning or $0.001178.
It would take 849 showers for you to waste $1.00 worth of water. Keep that in mind if you choose a fancy way to solve your problem.
Recirculating Pump Alternative
If you don't want to install the actual loop and want hot water at your plumbing fixtures instantly, you can install a nice pump that does what a gravity loop will do.
These pumps work on timers and move hot water through the system when you think you'll need it. They have a special valve that connects under a sink so there's NO WATER WASTE.
The cooled water in the hot water line is pumped back into the cold water line as soon as the pump fires up. When hot water reaches the special bypass valve the valve shuts off so hot water is not wasted.
This is a reliable recirculating pump you can install on top of your water heater. The weird threaded fitting goes under the sink that's farthest away from the pump. CLICK THE IMAGE NOW TO ORDER THIS PUMP.
Recirculating Pump Video
Watch this short video to show where the pump is installed and the special bypass valve.
Customer Reviews About My Gravity Loop
"I phoned you about my gravity loop that I recently installed. You clearly indicated what I did wrong. I had the theory and connections right, but the wrong pipe size. I used 1/4 inch copper tubing for the return loop. As you know, it did not work. Per your information, I increased it to 3/4 inch pipe. You said 1/2 inch might work, but I didn't want to take the chance. Bingo! - It works beyond what I had hoped for - Instant Hot Water." Bob Chartier, Westland, MI
"I remodeled about a year ago and read this column on gravity loops. We installed the loop and it works fantastically. There is instant, well almost, hot water on the far end of the house. I would not have believed something so simple could work so well....." Paul Wiegert
Are Recirculating Loops a New Idea?
Hospitals, hotels, motels, and other large buildings have used hot water recirculating loops for years. Some of these loops use electrical recirculating pumps while others use gravity.
Based upon the fact that your water heater is in the basement of your home, Mother Nature is going to do the work for free!
How Does the Gravity Hot Water System Work?
A gravity hot water system works because the heated water, which is lighter, rises through the loop. As the water cools at the end of the loop where the last part of the loop is not insulated, it is thermo-siphoned back into the hot water heater.
The water enters the bottom of the heater at the drain valve inlet. This flow of water is slow but constant.
Where Must the Water Heater Be Located?
The water heater must be located at the bottom of the loop. Ranch houses and two-story houses with basements are perfect candidates. Houses built on slabs or that have hot water lines below the water heater must use a simple in-line recirculating pump.
Finish The Loop
All you need to complete your loop is a return water line from the far end of your hot water line. Locate the end of your existing hot water line.
Cut into the pipe at this location where the pipe in the basement turns up to go into the fixture on the first floor. Install a tee fitting in place of the 90-degree fitting.
One part of the tee will allow you to reconnect to the hot water line. The other portion of the tee fitting will be the start of the return loop back to the water heater.
IMPORTANT TIP:Do not decrease the size of the return loop pipe. The system will work best if you use 3/4-inch diameter pipe. One-half-inch tubing may work, but don't take the chance.
Drain Water Heater
Turn off your water heater's power supply before you start this project. This is especially true if you heat water with electricity. If a heating element is on and not surrounded by water in the tank, it immediately burns up.
Then turn off the water leading to the water heater. Drain the hot water heater and remove the drain valve by turning counterclockwise.
Remove Drain Valve - Install Tee and Boiler Drain
Install a dielectric union or insulating nipple in place of the valve. This will to reduce corrosion possibilities if you are working with copper or galvanized iron water lines.
The next step is to install a tee fitting at the base of the heater. The loop pipe connects to one part of the tee and you'll install a new boiler drain out of the other part so you can drain the heater in the future.
Insulate 98% Of The Loop
To save energy and have the loop function, you must insulate the loop as it leaves the top of the water heater. The insulation must start inches above where the hot water line leaves the water heater and must continue along the entire loop as it makes its way through the house and starts its trip back to the water heater.
In new construction, insulate all of the hot water supply pipe up to each fixture.
Last 15 Feet - NO INSULATION
Do not insulate the last 15 feet of pipe as it gets near the heater. This pipe must be uncovered so the water cools. This cooling of the water is what powers the gravity convection engine that makes the hot water flow slowly towards through the loop.
Foam insulation is available which will slide over the pipe as you install it. You can also choose to use pre-molded fiberglass with a protective coating. The foam insulation is much more user friendly. Remember, to ensure good performance leave insulation off of the last 15 feet of loop piping as it returns to the heater.
Flapper Check Valve
If the loop fails to work, water may be flowing backward through the system from the water heater. You can stop this with a check valve. Install a check valve in the uninsulated part of the loop about 5 feet away from the bottom of the water heater.
You MUST use a flapper-type check valve, not a spring-loaded one. Spring-loaded check valves will not work and block the slow trickle of water through the loop.
Drill a 1/8-Inch Hole
Drill a 1/8 inch hole through the flapper so that a small amount of water can flow back to the heater to maintain circulation of the water within the loop. If the loop doesn't seem to work well, slowly increase the diameter of this hole but do not exceed 1/4 inch diameter. It's important to realize this hole must be drilled or there's a very good chance your loop line will rattle and clank. The rattle happens because the flapper starts to vibrate back and forth in response to the demand for hot water. The pressurized water in the loop is trying to flow backwards but the flapper springs shut.
The small hole stops the chatter because water can flow both ways through the loop. However, the volume of water flowing backward through the loop is not enough to satisfy the demand called for by the open valve in the loop.
Modern Heater Heat Traps!
If you're installing a new water heater, you need to remove a pesky device installed to keep heat in a heater. Many modern heaters have a heat trap device at the top of the hot water outlet. These are small flapper check valves that stop hot water from drifting up the hot water line when the hot water is not being used. Remove the heat trap device to get the gravity loop to work.
Crumbling Brick Pavers | Here's a concrete paving brick that's crumbling. It must have not had enough Portland cement in the mix to offset the freezing water that blasts apart the concrete. LOOK BELOW at the photograph showing the new paving brick that replaced the crumbling one. You'll then see why you don't want to use precast paving brick on your patio, driveway, or sidewalk. I have a better alternative below. Copyright 2022 Tim Carter
Crumbling Brick Pavers
Why Do Paving Brick Crumble?
The concrete paving brick crumble because the Portland cement used to hold together the sand and gravel loses its ability to hold together the sand and gravel used to create each brick. This happens most frequently in cold climates.
Water soaks into the concrete paving brick. When this water freezes, it expands in volume by 9 percent.
The ice crystals can blast apart the cement crystals. When this happens, the brick crumble.
The crumbling can also be caused by an inferior base and heavy concentrated loads on the brick. This is rare, but it's possible.
How Old Are Concrete Brick Pavers?
Colored brick pavers have been around since the late 1970s.
I remember when these interlocking colored concrete bricks were introduced. Homeowners were attracted to them like flies to picnic food.
When I first saw them, I knew there would be problems with them.
First, they were made from regular concrete. Small pieces of stone were used, but it's just concrete.
Traditional paving brick are made from clay and fired in a kiln. If the kiln temperature is hot and the brick are left in for a long time, the brick that come out are more like solid rock. The color of real paving brick is solid through the entire brick.
The biggest issue with the paving brick is they start to fade and lose their original color.
When they're made, dry pigments that are the consistency of flour are added to the Portland cement. This slurry paste puts an ultra-thin colored coating on all the pieces of sand and gravel used in the brick pavers.
But weather, pressure washers, foot and car traffic rapidly wear this thin paste off.
What Creates the Color in Concrete Paving Brick?
Dry pigments are blended with the concrete used to make the paving brick. The issue, as stated earlier, is this cement paste is very thin and wears off over time only to expose the dull color of the sand and gravel used to make the brick. Here are some standard dry pigment colors:
Here are just a few of the many many pigments available. You can blend different pigments to get different shades that you don't see here! CLICK HERE or THE IMAGE TO BUY ANY WHITEWASH or CONCRETE PIGMENT YOU WANT.
Do Pressure Washers Harm Paving Brick?
Pressure washing concrete brick pavers causes great harm. The high-pressure water stream accelerates this color fade. It should come as no surprise that a 2,400 PSI stream of water will BLAST away the fine colored cement paste that gives the brick its original pleasant appearance.
Just be aware that the color is going to fade unless you live in a mild climate and the patio is in the shade.
Here's a great example of faded concrete paving brick next to brand new ones that have not yet lost the colored cement paste off the sand and gravel. Copyright 2022 Tim Carter
Color-Safe Paving Brick
If you want paving brick whose color will never fade, purchase traditional clay paving brick. The color of the clay is solid throughout each brick. Even if you chip one, the color is the same. Be sure to get brick rated SW - severe weathering.
Composite Decking Mushroom | Mushrooms growing out of the bottom of Trex composite decking can’t possibly be a good thing. Decaying wood inside the Trex is fueling the mushroom growth. PHOTO CREDIT: Tim Carter
Composite Decking Mushrooms TIPS
Some composite decking materials are made with wood fibers
Many deck problems are caused by FAILURE of installer to follow instructions
Read updated author's notes at bottom of column
Ventilation is very important as is spacing between decking boards
DEAR TIM:I had to replace a damaged Trex decking board on my ground-level deck and was shocked at what I discovered. On the underside of the decking, mushrooms and fungus were growing out of the decking!
I thought that composite decking materials were problem-free. I thought the reason to purchase these products was so that you’d never have to replace them.
What’s going on? What can I do to stop the growth of the mushrooms? Patti L., Woodinville, WA
DEAR PATTI: Oh my goodness! I’m not really surprised by this, especially since I’ve had firsthand experience with this myself.
How Did You Discover the Mushrooms?
Recently, I had to repair a poorly designed front porch that was covered with Trex decking. It was important to salvage the decking material, and as I carefully removed each board, I was stunned to discover large patches of white fungus and different species of mushrooms growing on the underside of the decking.
IMPORTANT NOTE:The mushroom growth problem was caused by the home builder, not a defect in the Trex decking. I didn't build the house I currently live in.
The builder didn't:
provide any spacing between the decking boards
it was too close to the ground
it was enclosed on THREE SIDES
Because the deck was enclosed on the three sides, it was impossible to get air moving under the decking. You need air moving to evaporate any water that will fuel the growth of mold and mushrooms.
Author's Note: Would you like to see three High-Resolution photos of the mushrooms that were growing out of the Trex Decking? If so, click here.
Is Decking Spacing Important?
The first thing I did once I got inside and cleaned up was to go to the latest written installation instructions published by the manufacturer. I immediately discovered that part of the problem in my case was the boards had not been spaced properly to provide some ventilation.
How Big Should the Space Between Boards Be?
The current written instructions show that there should be a 1/4-inch gap between the boards to provide for both expansion and air circulation. However, I was shocked to discover there was no real minimum clearance distance referenced with respect to how close the bottom of the decking should be to moist and dark soil. These are the conditions that mushrooms, mold and fungus seem to thrive in.
Was the Marketing Message Misleading?
Clever marketing has for years set up an unrealistic expectation, in my opinion, that composite decks are maintenance-free. I can remember years ago that this absolutely was the case with Trex. After it was in the marketplace for several years and problems started to happen, it became clear you had to maintain the decks.
Can you Re-Stain Faded Composite Decking?
I was shocked to discover in the installation and maintenance instructions the manufacturer even talks about how to stain the deck to restore the decking to its original color. That communicates to me they know the decking is going to fade and will need to be cared for if you want it to look good for years to come. So much for maintenance-free.
What Do the Mushrooms Eat?
The mushrooms are growing because they are feeding on the wood fibers inside the Trex decking. The literature from the manufacturer says the decking does absorb moisture.
I’m reasonably confident the wood fibers that are used in the decking are not treated to prevent wood rot or decay. I can’t find any information in the Trex literature that says they do treat the wood to prevent rot.
If this is the case, that the wood fibers are not treated, then it makes perfect sense why you, I and perhaps tens of thousands of others are experiencing hidden mushroom growth.
What Fuels the Mushroom Growth?
The wood fibers inside the decking are getting wet, rotting, and fueling the growth of mushrooms. That’s what happens to logs that fall in the forest and get wet. It makes sense rot could happen with composite decking that uses wood fibers or wood flour that’s not treated to prevent rot.
To prevent the growth of mushrooms, fungus and mold on the underside of your decking, you may want to consider implementing what I’m doing. The front porch I’m rebuilding is going to have new and vastly improved ventilation.
Not only will I be spacing the decking boards so that there is a minimum of 1/4 inch between the boards, I’m creating a minimum of a 1 and 1/2-inch gap around three sides of the decking where it used to connect directly to the house.
This air gap should be plenty to help keep the relative humidity on the underside of the decking to a point where the growth of the organisms will be stopped or significantly slowed.
Should I Regrade the Soil?
I’m also going to try to regrade the soil so there are at least 16 inches of air space between the soil and the underside of the decking. It helps that I have well-drained soil under the porch I’m working on.
If you have poor-draining soil, I suggest you take whatever measures are necessary to prevent the ponding of water under the decking.
Why is Airflow Under the Decking Important?
Airflow is perhaps the best way to ensure there’s no or minimal growth of mushrooms and fungus. The goal is to keep the moisture content of the wood fibers inside the Trex as dry as possible. Air movement absolutely accelerates drying.
Since the manufacturer admits the decking does absorb moisture, anyone with Trex decking needs it to dry as soon as possible when it gets wet. This does become problematic in areas that experience lots of rain over months of time.
In these locations, it’s probably best to avoid the use of composite decking materials that contain wood fibers that have not been treated with chemicals that prevent wood rot.
Author's UPDATE:
In the summer of 2016, I replaced all of the generation-one Trex decking at my home with Trex Transcend. The Transcend product has the same, or similar, core of wood fibers that are encapsulated by plastic.
Here's my own Trex Transcend deck. There's lots of railing. It didn't take long to understand how to do it with professional results. Copyright 2021 Tim Carter
But the big difference is the top of each plank and the top third of each side is capped with a solid plastic that's embossed with wood grain. The capping material also has some extra coloration to simulate the real look of wood. My wife is a very tough critic of all things that are made to simulate wood. She feels this is the closest she's ever seen of any product to replicate real wood.
The small samples you get to hold in your hand look odd and unrealistic. But when the planks are down on the entire deck and you look out across it from a distance, it looks like real wood.
Here are some photos of my new Trex Transcend deck:
This is a photo of the decks under construction. The long deck with the furniture on them is the original 10 x 60-foot deck. The lower deck is new and is 24 feet wide and extends out 16 feet from the original deck. Copyright 2017 Tim Carter
The deck is complete with the Trex Transcend railing system. It was a pleasure working with this new material. It's engineered for easy installation and has all hidden fasteners for the decking and railing system. Lady the Dog loved laying on it. RIP Lady! Copyright 2017 Tim Carter
You can get a feel of the coloration in the medium-brown colored decking. The deck has a picture frame of darker material - Lava Rock - and the main decking is Tiki Torch. Copyright 2017 Tim Carter
In the spring, the deciduous trees treat us again with eye candy. There are multiple shades of green as the leaves mature.
I'm talking VIBRANT shades of green. Not one or two, but several. It's stunning and very hard to capture with a camera. The leaves will be in their spring glory in about three weeks.
Snow Be Gone WINNER!
A few months ago, I asked you to have some fun and play my Snow-Be-Gone 2017 Contest. You may have been one of the 200+ people who decided to see if you'd be the proud winner of a 4.5-pound container of my certified organic Stain Solver oxygen bleach.
Here's what the snow pile looked like the last week of March, 2017.
That pile above is just under six-feet tall and the highest part of the pile was in the shade all the time.
We had some warm days in early April and quite a bit of rain.
Last Friday night, April 21, 2017, I took the below photo. The red arrow points to the tiny spot of snow remaining. It was just starting to rain and by 9 p.m. it was all gone.
You may be one of the five contestants that picked April 21st. I used the random number generator at random.org to pick the winner.
Jay Kenty of nearby Wolfboro, NH is the winner! Congratulations Jay!
If you didn't win, don't fret. More games are coming your way and thank you for playing.
Coast FDX302 Knife Review
I just tested the Coast FDX302 pocketknife. It's a little dandy.
Are you sitting down? It costs LESS than $20!!!
This knife really surprised me.
I was convinced I'd have a ho-hum feeling about it.
I ripped out the old ceramic tile corner shower over the weekend.
Today I'm installing the American Standard faucet and the shower base.
Today's Tip is about the shower base.
Frequently rookie DIYrs and bad contractors install the acrylic base units WRONG.
The instructions that come with most acrylic tubs and showers - not all of them! - clearly show that the units must be installed in a wet bed of a solid compound that will FILL THE VOID SPACE under the acrylic.
If you skip this important step, the bottom will flex and oil can when you stand in the shower. Eventually the bottom will crack and leak.
I happen to like to use dry-setting joint compound for this job. USG has one that sets up in 90 minutes and that's plenty of time to mix the material with water, set the base and have the material squish around under the unit filling all the void spaces.
I believe I'm about two weeks away from having my Roofing Ripoff book ready as a paperback.
WOO HOO!
It's going to be GORGEOUS. Sheridan Stancliff is a professional book designer that's working on this aspect of my book. She's doing an amazing job on the interior of the book.
Mary Beth Wilker, the wife of my close friend Nick Motz, did the front and back cover. Mary Beth is also a close friend too!
Over the past two weeks, the sales of the PDF and Kindle versions have been STRONG. CLICK HERE to order one of these versions NOW.
Less than two weeks ago, I shared a conversation I had with my wife Kathy and she asked me if I was happy with the sales of the book in the first 36 hours.
My response was, "Not really." Just because I wasn't happy didn't mean it wasn't selling well!!!
The number of sales required to make me happy may be much larger than what would make some other publisher happy. Get it? Insert smiley face.
You may have contacted me with great feedback. I received COUNTLESS emails about what I could do to boost sales of the book.
Guess what the common message was in each and every suggestion? I was taken aback.
"Tim, reading an entire book is HARD."
You may have been one that asked for a condensed version because you don't want to slog through my long-winded adventure.
It's too expensive to offer this condensed version in a paperback, so I'm only going to offer it as a PDF file you can download.
You may have emailed me saying you have NO INTEREST IN THE BOOK and you just want me to cut to the chase and tell you HOW TO SAVE your asphalt shingle roof.
Yes, I made a discovery how you can extend the life of your asphalt shingle roof by decades. It works for any new asphalt roof or one that's showing no curling or granule loss.
I'm going to do that too, but not just yet. Hang in there.
Here it is. It's quite the knife. Each time I hold it, I like it more and more. CLICK THE PHOTO NOW TO HAVE THIS KNIFE DELIVERED TO YOUR HOME.
Coast FDX302 Knife
I've lost count of the pocket knives I've had in my lifetime.
Years ago I used to marvel at those with the carved and shaped wood handles. Go back sixty years and pocket knives were very basic - a blade, maybe two.
In the 1970s, the Swiss Army knife was the rage. As the fad exploded, so did the knife as some had so many gadgets you needed a backpack to carry the knife.
Forget about putting it in your pocket. Click here to see how nutso the Swiss knives are.
Slim & Stainless
When I saw the Coast FDX302 in the hard-plastic packaging, I immediately had a negative thought.
I thought it would be heavy. I've come to really appreciate lightweight pocket knives. Just a month ago, I received a Klein electrician's pocketknife to review and it was HEAVY - too heavy.
The Coast FDX302 is light. It's sleek. It's handsome. It's stainless steel so it won't rust. I love that.
It may soon become one of my favorite knives.
I can tell you for sure it will accompany me on all my hiking and Summits on the Air adventures. I'm a ham radio buff and love to talk with other operators while on top of a mountain.
Here it is. It's quite the knife. Each time I hold it, I like it more and more. CLICK THE PHOTO NOW TO HAVE THIS KNIFE DELIVERED TO YOUR HOME.
Here's the handle. You can see the belt clip and the tiny lanyard hole at the end. CLICK THE PHOTO NOW TO HAVE THIS KNIFE DELIVERED TO YOUR HOME.
The round knurled knob is a secondary lock when the blade is open. It's a great safety feature. Note the lint on the knife from my pocket. CLICK THE PHOTO NOW TO HAVE THIS KNIFE IN YOUR POCKET IN JUST DAYS!
It's not a huge knife. It fits my hand perfectly. I have a normal man-sized hand. Not a giant hand, a normal one. It's stainless steel and won't rust. CLICK THE PHOTO NOW TO OWN ONE. YOU CAN'T BELIEVE HOW AFFORDABLE THIS KNIFE IS!
I didn’t ask permission from my editor to depart from my normal question and answer format, but I’m sure he’ll agree this is a long overdue column.
I’ve been writing this column now for over twenty-three years. Ask the Builder was first published October 2, 1993. It was my original goal to help you get the most for your money when you hire a remodeling contractor or a builder to make your building dreams come true.
Over the years, this goal has been reduced to a simple sentence that’s at the bottom of each issue of my free newsletter: Do It Right, Not Over! Sadly as each week passes, I feel like I’m pushing a large boulder up a mountain.
I say this based on what I see with my own eyes and the vast amount of email and comments I receive each day at my AsktheBuilder.com website and on my hundreds of YouTube videos.
It’s painfully obvious that you and millions of other homeowners need a quality control checklist before you start a project. This checklist would allow you to understand what needs to be done so you don’t have to do things over wasting your valuable money and time.
Here in New Hampshire, a new house is being constructed in my town. I pass it all the time going to and from town. I decided to stop by as often as possible to get photos for you and to monitor the progress. What I see each time I stop shocks me.
The day the subcontractor poured the footing I was there. The footing of a home is perhaps the most critical aspect of the construction of a new home. The foundation of a home rests on the footing. The footing is in direct contact with the soil under your home and it must be strong. It needs to have reinforcing steel in it. Period.
Not wanting to bother the workers as the concrete flowed down the chute into the trenches I marveled at the lack of reinforcing steel in the footing. I was taking photos and at one point one of the workers asked who I was and what I was doing. Once he discovered I was not a threat, I asked him why there was no steel in the footing. “Oh, the builder didn’t want to spend the money for it.”
As the weeks have progressed, more and more mistakes and poor quality issues have blossomed at the house. One of the biggest poor quality issues was allowing the insulation and drywall contractors to proceed with their work while the outside of the house was not weatherproof.
This simple photo shows four low-quality workmanship errors. The overarching error is a builder not supervising his subcontractors. (C) Copyright 2017 Tim Carter
Here in the Northeast we can get howling Nor’easters in the winter. Most are usually blowing snow, but it’s possible to have a violent wind-driven rain in the late winter. It happened here just weeks ago. All winter long the house sat with no siding on it.
The house had a patchwork of air and water infiltration barrier fabric on it. The rough carpenter put a piece of it on each wall as he built them on the floor and tilted them up. He never took the time to apply the special tape to seal the seams. There were some places where bare oriented strand board sheathing (OSB) was exposed with no waterproof covering.
His actual method of installing it was wrong as the air and water-barrier product is meant to be applied as one full piece as you’d wrap a birthday present. You end up with just one seam on the underside of a gift box so you should just end up with one seam on the wall on the side least exposed to the prevailing wind.
I have no idea how much wind-driven rain penetrated into the walls soaking the insulation, but I’m sure some did. It’s unacceptable to allow this to happen. I’d debate that to my dying breath with any other builder.
Last week, the siding contractor finally started to work on this house. It was my hope he’d fix the rough carpenter’s mistakes. Alas, he didn’t. He started to put up his vinyl siding right over the bare OSB and untaped air and water barrier.
Here’s my rhetorical question of the day: Did the siding contractor even know he was covering up bad workmanship, or did he know and not care? Both answers are egregious and are representative of an epidemic of poor quality that appears to be the new normal.
Oh, I hear you, you’re saying to me, “But Tim, what about the building inspectors and the building code? Won’t those two things protect me and my investment?” No. In many locations, including many towns in New Hampshire, there are NO building inspections.
It gets worse. The building code is a set of minimum standards. If you build a house to code, it’s like getting seventy percent on a test. It means you pass by the skin of your teeth. You can build many things with little additional cost and greatly exceed the standards in the building code.
I’ve put together a basic new home quality control checklist you can get at my website for free. It can be used on room addition projects and many other projects around your home. I hope it helps you.
The following checklist is a FREE sample of some very important things you need to make sure happen as you build your new home or room addition.
There are MANY OTHER THINGS that are important and they're included in a comprehensive checklist I created years ago.
Don't count on the building code to protect you. It's a set of MINIMUM STANDARDS.
You can build a house that's far better than the building code and it often doesn't cost too much more.
If you use the free basic checklist below and click "I don't know ..." many times, USE the search engine here on my website and read my past columns and watch my videos about that exact topic.
Basic FREE Checklist
The following is a very basic checklist that will allow you to make sure some of the most important things on your project are done right.
If you desire to have a comprehensive checklist that's an INSTANT DOWNLOAD product, you might want to look at it.
DEAR TIM: What can you tell me about vinyl siding installation? I like the no-maintenance aspect of vinyl siding, and it looks easy enough to install.
What important vinyl siding installation instructions can you share with me? What tools will I need to get professional results on my one-story house? Patty S., Scranton, PA
DEAR PATTY: The installation of vinyl siding is not as hard as it may seem, but there are indeed plenty of tricks that one needs to know to get really professional results.
Single Story Vinyl Siding Can Be DIY
This happens to be one task a determined homeowner can tackle if she/he really can follow directions, think ahead and pay attention to details. I would have probably advised you to hire a professional had you told me you have a two-story home.
Start On No-Window Wall
The best way, in my opinion, to see if you're up to the challenge and if you're satisfied with the results, is to start the job on a side of your home that has the least amount of windows, doors, or other things that are attached to the existing siding. All of these things represent obstacles when you do vinyl-siding installation.
Before you purchase the vinyl siding, do some investigation at the manufacturers' websites. Download their installation manuals.
You'll quickly discover that vinyl siding has some basic components with respect to how inside and outside corners are treated and how different trim pieces are used to terminate the vinyl siding around doors and windows.
Expansion & Contraction
You can get into trouble faster than an speeding bullet if you don't take into account how vinyl siding expands and contracts. Vinyl siding really grows as it's heated by the sun.
If you cut pieces too tight, or you nail pieces of vinyl siding too tightly to a wall, the siding will buckle and look horrible. Vinyl siding needs to float on a wall.
No TIGHT Nailing
It's a concept that goes against anything you have ever done before. My guess is that every time in your life you have pounded a nail with a hammer, you have driven the nail tightly. Don't ever do that with vinyl siding.
Special Tools
You'd be surprised at the specialized tools you'll find in a professional siding installer's tool belt and truck. There are tools that punch slots and notches in siding.
These are needed to interlock the siding in special trim pieces.
You may discover a circular saw that has its blade on backwards. Some installers cut vinyl siding this way as it doesn't chew up the siding. Laser levels, ladders, stand-off scaffolding, etc. are all nice tools to have as well.
Aluminum Coil Stock
There are some issues that you may want to consider before you start the job. Some vinyl-siding jobs incorporate aluminum coil stock to cover parts of the house that are flat pieces of wood that you currently are painting.
Examples of these might be fascia boards, gutter boards, and wood molding around windows and doors. If your house has these, you are adding a layer of complexity to the job.
Metal-Bending Brake
You need special skills and a metal-bending brake to work with the aluminum coil stock. You can see these special tools at businesses that sell vinyl siding and the aluminum coil stock.
Extra Closed-Cell Foam Insulation
You should also consider upgrading your exterior insulation, air infiltration and weather barriers at this time. To get the best bang for all this effort, you may discover it's best to remove your existing siding.
Don't Bury Window & Door Trim
This allows you to add the needed components and not ruin the look of your home by burying the windows and doors. You can frequently see houses where vinyl siding has been installed over existing siding. The doors and windows appear to be unnaturally deep in the walls.
Volunteer To Learn
One last suggestion would be to get some on-the-job training. There are any number of great organizations that build homes for those in need. Perhaps one of these is active in your community. Habitat for Humanity is one.
These houses often have vinyl-siding exteriors. Perhaps you can volunteer to help build this house asking to be on the exterior crew that is doing the siding.
Cave Man Simple
The actual process of installing vinyl siding is not that complicated. It's just a matter of knowing a few tricks with respect to the initial layout and installation of the starter strips.
The first piece of siding installed determines how the job will look and how the siding goes up the walls. Keep in mind that the siding needs to be level and must overlap the foundation to keep the house weathertight.
Accessory Materials
There are always new inventions and accessories that can enhance the installation of vinyl siding. One of these happens to be metal strips that are installed on the walls of a house that help prevent buckling and spacing issues.
When installed with care, these strips also can ensure the siding looks flat and not wavy. Check for these strips at businesses that specialize in the sale of vinyl siding, roofing and other exterior products.
Side Your Shed
You should also try to experiment on a small structure to hone your skills. If you have an outdoor storage shed, maybe it's time for it to get a new look. After all, you would want it to match your home, so now is a good time to install siding on it. Make your mistakes here, not on the front wall of your home!
Cleaning Vinyl Siding | This new house is being covered with vinyl siding. It's not dirty now, but it will have to be cleaned at some future date. The young homeowners don’t want any maintenance other than this periodic cleaning. Copyright 2020 Tim Carter
Cleaning Vinyl Siding TIPS
Trees and bushes broadcast invisible sugars
Do NOT use a pressure washer - it puts water behind the siding
Trees and bushes produce airborne sugars that drift through the wind and stick to vinyl siding. This nearly invisible layer of sugar is a food source for mold and some algae. Dust and dirt can also stick to the vertical sides of vinyl siding, and these are also food sources for some mildews and algae.
How Do You Clean Vinyl Siding?
The best way to clean vinyl siding and vinyl siding trim is to rinse it down with a regular garden hose equipped with a nozzle. Set the nozzle to a medium misting spray.
Never use a forceful direct stream of water, as it can penetrate behind the vinyl siding. This means do NOT use a pressure washer.
Can You Call Me on the Phone If I Need Advice?
Yes, I can call you on the phone if you need help cleaning your vinyl siding. You don't want to make a costly error.
Are There Waterproof Membranes Under Vinyl Siding?
There are many homes covered with vinyl siding that do not have waterproof membranes that cover the frame walls. The wood sheathing and framing lumber can get wet easily if you direct water at the edges of vinyl siding, seams where two pieces of siding overlap, at inside and outside corners and next to windows and doors.
Vinyl siding is designed to shed water falling from the sky, not water that is shot up from the ground. Always rinse off the siding pointing the hose down towards the ground.
Never aim a hose up at vinyl siding as it can cause massive amounts of water to seep behind the siding.
What is the Best Vinyl Siding Cleaner?
Stain Solver is MADE in the USA with USA ingredients that are food-grade quality. CLICK THE IMAGE to order some NOW.
If you want to remove algae, mildew, dirt, diesel exhaust soot, etc. from vinyl siding, then use Stain Solver - a certified organic oxygen bleach.
You mix it with warm tap water, stir until the powder is dissolved and apply to the siding with a garden hand-pump sprayer. A great professional sprayer can shoot a stream of this solution nearly 25 feet in the air. I know as I own one and used to use it to clean the exterior of my own home.
You can mix regular Dawn liquid dish soap in with the solution to get extra cleaning power.
Will Regular Soap Work to Clean Vinyl Siding?
Regular dishwashing soap will do a very good job of cleaning vinyl siding, but if you mix it with the Stain Solver, you'll end up working much less.
Squeeze a generous amount in a bucket, and add warm water to make a frothy mix of soapy water. I like to pour this water into a hand-pump garden sprayer to apply it onto the vinyl siding once it has been rinsed with clear water.
Here's a handy hand-pump sprayer. I have one almost identical and when the nozzle is adjusted to a stream, it will shoot about 30 feet up in the air! CLICK THE PHOTO NOW to have this sprayer delivered to your doorstep in days.
Work in the Shade To Clean Vinyl Siding
Always work on a section of siding from bottom to top, and always work in the shade. You never want the soapy water to dry on the siding before it can be rinsed off. I prefer to clean an area about six to seven feet wide at a time.
Cleaning Vinyl Siding Video
Watch this video. I like this man, but not a fan of his cigarette. Just be sure you use Stain Solver in the sprayer and NOT any other product that contains chlorine bleach or sodium hypochlorite - that's the chemical name for chlorine bleach.
The best brush to clean vinyl siding is one used to wash a recreational vehicle (RV). These special brushes are used on long poles to clean the sides of RVs.
This is a perfect brush to clean vinyl siding. It's got an adjustable handle and the perfect bristles that remove dirt loosened by using Stain Solver oxygen bleach. CLICK THE IMAGE NOW TO HAVE THIS BRUSH DELIVERED TO YOUR HOME.
These brushes are superb tools to use on dirty vinyl siding. Once the vinyl siding has been coated with soapy water, dip the brush in the soapy water and use side-to-side motions to remove dirt.
What Direction Should I Clean?
Start cleaning from the bottom and go up as far as you can reach. Immediately rinse the area you cleaned. Proceed up the wall until you get to the top alternately washing and rinsing. As you get higher, always make sure you rinse all dirt all the way down the siding to the ground.
IMPORTANT TIP:
Never use chlorine bleach as an additive to your soapy water solution. Chlorine bleach is a deadly toxin for any and all vegetation around your home. The chlorine ions soak into the ground and kill the roots of the plants, grass, trees and bushes.
If you feel compelled to use a bleach to help kill the mildew, use oxygen bleach. Oxygen bleach is non-toxic, has no odor and it injects oxygen into the soil.
Years ago while researching a column about cleaning decks, I discovered the wonders of Oxygen Bleach. It is perhaps the 'greenest' cleaner I know of as it uses oxygen ions to break apart stains, dirt and odor molecules. There are no harsh chemicals, and it works on just about anything that is water washable.
I decided to create my own special blend using ingredients made in the USA. In fact, the raw materials in the active ingredient are food-grade quality registered with the FDA. I call my product Stain Solver. I urge you to use it to help with cleaning your vinyl siding. You will be amazed at the results!
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