Replacement Window Cost Payback

Posted on by Tim Carter
Tim replacing front window

Replacement Window Cost Payback TIPS

Are you thinking about purchasing replacement windows and doors for your home simply because you feel you’ll save lots of money on your energy bills? Some salespeople count on this fuzzy emotion when they try to get you to sign a contract that commits you to spending thousands and thousands of dollars on this major home improvement.

This is the column I mentioned in the Labor Day 2016 Newsletter that can save you money.

Do Some Simple Math

I love numbers and used to spend my lunch break on job sites doing all sorts of calculations. One day I produced a very accurate estimation of how many 2 x 4s a lumber company sold in a year.

I did this because I knew how many delivery trucks they had, how many trips the trucks could make in a day and how many 2 x 4’s were on each load. The general manager of the company was shocked at how close my estimate was.

Years ago I decided to use these same skills to see just how long it takes to see if you really save money when buying replacement windows and doors. The fun part is it only takes a few minutes to do this calculation.

Free & Fast BIDS

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local replacement window contractors. Ask about AAMA Gold Label windows.

To get accurate numbers for you, I decided to survey all of my subscribers who get my free AsktheBuilder.com newsletter and who live on Long Island. I asked them to provide their actual natural gas cost figures for different months of the year. The results of the survey were astonishing.

Before I go any further, I want you to realize this column only applies to buying replacement windows and doors based on the sole reason that you think it will make financial sense because of the energy you’ll save. If you need replacement windows to make your home look better, or because your existing windows are falling apart and don’t work, your motivation to purchase is quite different.

AAMA Gold Label

You also need to realize that there’s a vast difference in quality in replacement windows. If you want the absolute best ones, you need to buy windows and doors that come with the American Architectural Manufacturers Association (AAMA) Gold Label. These windows and doors, and the components used to make the them, have passed stringent testing for resistance to air leakage, water penetration, and wind pressure. The only windows I’d ever put in my home would have the AAMA Gold Label.

Savings Start AFTER Payback

Before we do the simple calculations, here’s what you need to think about. You only start to save money on an energy-based home improvement after you’ve paid yourself back, in actual energy savings, the amount of money you spent on the improvement.

Get Out Utility Bills

There are sophisticated software programs that can estimate the actual energy savings, but gathering the data can be a burden. To get a real number that’s very accurate you can look at your monthly utility bills.

Let’s me show you how simple it is. My method that follows assumes you use natural gas to heat your home. If you use fuel oil, you already know how much you spend each year for heating by adding up your oil bills.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local replacement window contractors. Ask about AAMA Gold Label windows.

Break Out Gas & Electric Cost

If you study your monthly utility bills and look at the breakdown between the gas and electricity, you’ll be amazed at what you can determine. What you’re trying to determine is just how much money you spend on natural gas for heating only. I know this seems hard to do, especially if you cook, dry clothes and heat water using natural gas.

Look At Summer Use

Here’s the easy part. You use hot water, you cook and dry clothes year round. But your furnace only operates, on average, for about six or seven months per year. The first thing to look at are your gas bills for June, July and August. Your furnace is not on then and the gas you’re using represents what you spend for all the other gas-fueled appliances.

Using the data from my survey of Long Island homeowners like you, I determined that the average gas bill for these three months is about $60 per month. This is what the homeowners are spending, per month, to heat water, cook and dry clothes.

Average Winter Months

I then asked the homeowners in the survey to tell me what they spend on gas for the months of November, December, January, February and March. After subtracting the average of $60 per month, I determined that the average Long Island subscriber of mine was spending about $600 per year on heating costs. Since some may also use central air conditioning in the summer, let’s add about $200 extra for the electricity used to power the AC units.

Average ANNUAL Savings = 19%

I then spent some time looking at different Long Island replacement window company websites. I discovered that some talk about a range of energy savings you may experience by installing new replacement windows. The range is 12 to 27 percent.

Let’s be bold and go with the 27 percent savings. Do the math, $800 X .27, and you’ll see that you may save $216 per year on energy. Now it’s time to see if it’s worth it to buy the replacement windows based on energy savings.

Thousands Of Dollars To Payback!

If you get estimates for AAMA-approved windows, remember these are the best ones, you may discover it will cost you about $600-700 per window. The average home on Long Island may have about ten windows so let’s estimate that the total cost will be $6,500.00. If this is the case, it’s going to take you 30 years before you break even and start to save money on the replacement windows. The payback term is much longer if you finance the improvement and are paying interest on the $6,500.00.

The calculations are more complex because you can factor in the savings from maintaining new windows, the cost of natural gas may go up, and several other things. But you also need to consider what would happen if you kept the $6,500 and invested it.

If you got a modest return on your investment of just five percent, you’d make $325 a year which is more money than you’d save on the energy costs. You’d also still have the $6,500 in your savings account, not that of the window company.

The bottom line is it really pays to run a few simple numbers to see at what point you really start to save money. Often it takes a decade or two before you break even. Be smart when you make large energy-savings decisions.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local replacement window contractors. Ask about AAMA Gold Label windows.

Window Condensation

Posted on by Tim Carter
window condensation green framed wet window

This glass has condensation on it that can peel the paint and cause both wood rot and mold if it is not stopped! Copyright 2017 Tim Carter

Window Condensation TIPS

  • Condensation can form on new windows with insulated glass
  • Glass gets cool or cold, even insulated glass
  • Water vapor changes to liquid when it touches a cool or cold surface
  • Lower indoor humidity or aim fans at surfaces that get condensation
  • CLICK HERE to Get Tim's FREE & FUNNY Newsletter!

DEAR TIM: I have massive amounts of window condensation forming on expensive name-brand windows in my new home. My sister has condensation on some pricey vinyl-replacement windows.

The window people say it is our fault stating that the humidity is too high in our homes. I even have condensation on a storm door.

What is cure for condensation, and how can I stop the water damage and mold that is forming? Patty S.

DEAR PATTY: Window condensation plagues many a homeowner each winter.

Condensation Forms On All Cool / Cold Surfaces

Condensation can form on windows, skylights, walls, ceilings, the underside of roofs, inside closets, etc.

The source of condensation is invisible water vapor that is a component of the air inside your home. Condensation on windows, even new ones, has become an increasingly more-common problem because we are building new homes better and sealing up existing homes so they are more energy-efficient.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local window companies that can install new windows that might not have condensation. Ask for AAMA gold-label windows.

Condensation = Gas Water Into Liquid Water

I have people ask me frequently what is condensation. Condensation is a physical process that happens when water changes from the gaseous state to the liquid state.

The air we breath and that surrounds our planet holds vast amounts of water - billions of tons. Some of this water is invisible while much of it is liquid. You can see liquid water in the sky each time you look at a cloud.

Cool Causes Magic

The water vapor turns to liquid water when it comes into contact with a cool or cold surface. For condensation to form, the temperature of the surface must be at or below the dew point of the air that is touching up against the cool surface.

This dew point is a moving target, and this is why the window companies are saying you and your sister might be the cause of the window condensation.

Warm Air Holds More Water

A given volume of air can only hold so much water vapor at a given temperature. The warmer the air, the more water vapor it can hold.

Certainly you have experienced stifling air in the summer months where the air seems so thick you can cut it. If you had an instrument to measure relative humidity with you, you would have discovered the dew point of that air might have been as high as 72 F or even higher.

This means that if there was an object outdoors whose surface was 72 F or lower, you would see water droplets forming on that relatively warm surface!

Inside Air Dew Point

The air inside your home or that of your sister might have a dew point of 50 F. This means that if the surface temperature of the glass drops to 50 F or below, you are going to see condensation.

Even though you and your sister have state-of-the-art windows that might have Low-E insulated glass with Argon or some other inert gas between the panes of glass, you can still get window condensation. Here is why.

Glass Gets Cold

If you keep the temperature and humidity constant inside your home as many do, condensation will form on windows as the outside temperature plummets in bitter-cold weather. The temperature of the surface of the inside pane of glass is not constant as the outdoor temperature drops!

Your furnace is fighting to keep the temperature up, but it will always lose that battle if it is sized properly for your home.

Window Condensation Products

CLICK HERE to see all sorts of products that can help STOP condensation damage to the window sashes and drywall / plaster around your windows.

How To Stop Condensation

You can stop or minimize condensation by monitoring the amount of water vapor in your home. As the outdoor temperature drops you must lower the amount of water in you air.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local window companies that can install new windows that might not have condensation. Ask for AAMA gold-label windows.

Modern humidifiers have controls with outdoor sensors that can do this automatically. You should also use exhaust fans in your kitchen and bathrooms that exhaust air outdoors, not into an attic space.

Indoor plants, laundry that is drying indoors, interior painting, cooking, crawl spaces that have no vapor barriers, etc. all can aggravate window condensation.

Drafty Homes = Less Condensation

Older homes had window-condensation issues, but they were not always as bad. The reason was simple. Old homes like the one I grew up in were often very drafty. The influx of cold air mixing with the interior air made the relative humidity of the air lower.

Cold air is dry by nature, and when it is mixed with warm air, the humidity drops as does the dew point! This means you would not see condensation form in an old drafty house but might see it in a new home that could be built next door.

Storm Door Condensation

Condensation on a storm door is very common. Storm doors are installed to act as a water and wind barrier.

They often have single-pane glass and the temperature of that glass is frequently equal to the actual outdoor temperature. Moist warmer air from inside your home leaks past your primary door and contacts the cold storm-door glass.

Condensation starts to form in seconds if the storm door is sealed well as it should be.

Fans Evaporate Invisible Condensation

Fans that blow air on window condensation can help evaporate the liquid water putting it back into the gaseous state. But always remember that the light fog you see in the first phase of window condensation is doing the same thing a blaring smoke detector does; it is screaming at you warning that you have too much water in your air.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local window companies that can install new windows that might not have condensation. Ask for AAMA gold-label windows.

Column 711

Removing Algae Stains From Roof Shingles Video

Posted on by Tim Carter

Removing Algae Stains From Roof Shingles

Roof algae is a microscopic organism that feeds off the calcium carbonate and powdered limestone that is found in roofing shingles. Does it hurt the shingles? Do you have to get rid of it? No. But, a lot of people do want to get rid of the ugly black streaks on their roof.

In addition, some houses might have green algae from nearby trees. There is a simple way to get rid of these algae. To clean roof algae, use oxygen bleach. It will not take the color out of the shingles and will not harm the vegetation.

Free & Fast Bids

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local companies that will come out and remove algae from your roof.

Mix the oxygen bleach with water and spray it onto the roof with a pump sprayer. Keep the roof wet for about 10 - 15 minutes. The oxygen bleach will attack the algae and start to remove it. Take a scrub brush and lightly scrub the roof. Apply more solution if required.

Once the roof is clean, rinse with water from the garden hose. Some roofs may require a second or third application depending upon how bad the algae has gotten.

There are some safety tips to remember. Roofs are slippery and when they are wet, they are more slippery. With the addition of oxygen bleach, even more slippery. Be careful and wear shoes with good traction.

Also, work on the roof on a cloudy day or in the morning or evening when the sun is not beating down on you and the roof. The sun will make the bleach evaporate faster and it will work on you also.

Click here for more information on Oxygen Bleach.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local companies that will come out and remove algae from your roof.

 

Message from Tim:

Years ago while researching a column about cleaning decks, I discovered the wonders of Oxygen Bleach. It is perhaps the 'greenest' cleaner I know of as it uses oxygen ions to break apart stains, dirt and odor molecules. There are no harsh chemicals, and it works on just about anything that is water washable.

I decided to create my own special blend using ingredients made in the USA. In fact, the raw materials in the active ingredient are food-grade quality registered with the FDA. I call my product Stain Solver. I urge you to use it to help with cleaning your roof shingles. You will be amazed at the results!

April 19, 2017 AsktheBuilder Newsletter

Posted on by Tim Carter

I spent Easter weekend in New Orleans with five friends on a little man self-discovery trip. That's what Kathy calls adventures like this.

Dan, a very good friend of mine, invited five of us to the iconic city. He pays for everything except beignets and other consumable caloric things that might pass through one's lips.

He's very generous and we had a great time, although I didn't have one beignet as those were all consumed between the hours of midnight and 2 a.m.

I'm pretty bitter about that.

New Orleans is steeped in history, culture and funk. Walking through the French Quarter at night is an experience all its own.

We visited the newer WW II museum. That alone is worth the trip. WOW is all I can say. You could spend all day there.

One last thing. I flew home on Monday mid morning. While at the gate, the agent asked for a volunteer as the flight was overbooked.

No one made the move to the gate. After two minutes, he asked again.

I decided to go up and see what the offer was. I had NEVER BEFORE volunteered my seat. I figured if I got back home a few hours later, no big deal.

The first thing the agent said was, "Where's your final destination?"

"New Hampshire - MHT"

He tapped away on his keyboard.

"Oh, we have to act fast. I can get you on a flight that's boarding RIGHT NOW and you'll get to NH 45 minutes FASTER. I'll also give you a $500 voucher."

Five minutes later, I was boarding a new aircraft.

Next time you're flying and they ask for a volunteer, don't ASSUME you'll get to your destination LATER in the day or the next day!

Deck Cleaning Stain Solver SALE

April is a huge deck-cleaning month. You may clean other outdoor furniture, siding, boats, kayaks, etc.

After selling Stain Solver for 23 years, that's how long Kathy and I have been doing it, we know the 4.5-pound size is often the PERFECT size for most decks and projects.

If you're a new subscriber, Kathy and I own Stain Solver. It's a certified organic multi-purpose oxygen bleach cleaner.

Moderate weather has arrived here in New Hampshire and I'm about to clean and reseal my outdoor teak table that we use on our deck.

Yes, I'm gong to tape a video showing how it's done.

How about a quick FLASH SALE on the 4.5-pound size?

Actually, let's do it for the 9.2 and 50-pound sizes too!

Stain Solver will clean ANYTHING OUTDOORS.

It makes regular treated lumber look NEW again. The only thing I'd not use it on would be a redwood deck.

It's SAFE to use on:

  • Composite decking of any type
  • Teak furniture
  • Boats
  • Kayaks - removes mold and algae
  • Patios - removes algae and mold
  • Vinyl Siding
  • Pre-cleaner for siding before painting / staining
  • Boat cushions

Use this promo code to get 5% off and FREE SHIPPING to any of the lower 48 USA states.

5417

The sale will END in just a week.

CLICK HERE to order now.

A Non-Tool Review

I get contacted at least once a month by inventors and tool companies asking me to share their new tool or product with you.

I decided LONG AGO to only feature the things I'd use in my home. Some other home improvement websites share everything no matter if it's good or not.

However, I decided to make an exception this time.

I want you to look at a tool and wonder about what happens AFTER you use the tool.

What's more, think about what you have to do before you can USE the tool.

The inventor of the following tool reached out to me about two months ago. I ALWAYS say, "Just send it and I'll look at it. If it passes muster, I'll see what I can do."

I don't spend the time looking at what they're talking about as often they don't have great websites yet. It's better to just get the tool or product and put it in your hands. Believe me, after doing this twenty-three years it's the best way.

CLICK HERE to see what I was sent.

As soon as I opened the bubble-wrap envelope I shook my head and mumbled, "What in the world was this man thinking?"

Here's just part of what I've discovered over the years having you as a subscriber and listening to your feedback.

You want:

  • things that make a job EASIER, not harder
  • to SAVE money
  • a tool that adds value and is not disposable

About two weeks ago, the inventor contacted me and asked what I thought.

I responded, "I hate to say it but I'm about to use your tool as a teaching tool."

He was confused. I then told him:

"I can achieve the same results your tool proposes by just using a great caulk gun and cutting a very tiny hole in the tip of the caulk gun.

What's more, I don't have to throw everything away after using it."

He pretty much agreed.

So what in the world was he thinking???? We'll never know.

Bottom Line: Don't think that every new tool is really going to help you. Some are just gimmicks.

If you want to get the caulk gun I have that will give you AMAZING CONTROL and allow you to caulk tiny cracks with no waste of caulk, CLICK HERE.

This gun has a 26:1 ratio. That means when you squeeze the handle a small amount of caulk comes out of the tip. It's like driving a car in first gear.

You NEED this advantage when doing detail caulk work. This gun is worth EVERY PENNY.

CLICK THE IMAGE to have it delivered to your home.

New & Revised Columns

Remove Oil Spots From Concrete & Blacktop

Outdoor Fire Pit Ideas / HACKS

Wood Deck Resurfacing IDEAS

That's enough for today.

New subscriber?

Check out this: www.RoofingRipoff.com

Tim Carter
Founder - www.AsktheBuilder.com

Do It Right, Not Over!

Remove Oil From Driveway

Posted on by Tim Carter
remove oil from driveway

Here's oil spilled on concrete. It's easy to clean up with liquid dish soap and water. Old stains will need Stain Solver oxygen bleach. Copyright 2018 Tim Carter

Remove Oil From Driveway TIPS

DEAR TIM: Yesterday a dump truck not only left a load of top soil at my home but it also left behind a nasty oil stain in the center of my concrete driveway. I also have some old oil stains on my concrete garage floor.

How can I remove oil from my driveway and restore the concrete to its original state? Once I get the concrete clean and dry is there a way one can prevent oil stains from seeping into concrete? Gus Z., Elmhurst, IL

DEAR GUS: Motor and hydraulic oils can really cause a mess on concrete, brick and blacktop but the good news is that you can achieve excellent clean up results if you act quickly.

Concrete Is Hard But Spongy

Concrete is a dense surface but water and many other liquids can and do soak into the surface. The fresh oil stain created by the dump truck will be a breeze to remove if you act quickly. The older oil stains in your garage may be a far greater challenge.

Remove Oil From Driveway Stain-Removal Tools & Soap

 

Oxygen Bleach

Stain Solver is MADE in the USA with USA ingredients that are food-grade quality. CLICK THE IMAGE to order some NOW.

Removing the fresh stain from the driveway will require a regular scrub brush, some liquid dish soap and water. All you need to do is squirt some liquid dish soap onto the stain and add some water.

You can get even better results if you also use Stain Solver oxygen bleach. This is a certified organic product that breaks apart oil molecules making them easier to remove.

Mix, Stir & Scrub Rub-a-Dub

You mix Stain Solver with hot tap water, stir and make sure the powder dissolves. I always add three tablespoons of the Stain Solver powder to a quart of water and stir for about 90 seconds.

Be sure to wet down the surrounding concrete as well after you've poured the Stain Solver solution onto the oil stain. This will prevent oil released during the cleaning process from causing a secondary stain.

Scrub the stain vigorously and add enough Stain Solver solution to make a rich lather of soap.

Dawn Dish Soap Great for Oil Stains

I've achieved the best results using Dawn liquid dish soap. Other soaps will work, but Dawn seems to do a superb job.

The soap will emulsify the oil and lift it out of the concrete. If you simply rinse the driveway the oil will pollute your yard or street.

Hug The Environment

You may decide it is more environmentally responsible to blot up a majority of the dirty soap mixture with paper towels or a dry compound like cat litter and dispose of this in a certified landfill. There is a good chance your local waste collection service can accomplish this task for you.

Remember, if you use the Stain Solver oxygen bleach, it BREAKS DOWN the oil so you don't have to waste paper towels and fill up the landfill with the oil that might seep through to Mother Earth at some point.

No Wire Brushing - Use a Nylon Brush!

Do not use a wire brush to scrub the concrete. It can erode and scratch the concrete finish resulting in a permanent scar.

I've successfully removed many fresh oil stains from my own concrete driveway using a standard nylon bristle scrub brush that I purchased at a local grocery store. Some stains require several scrubbing attempts to completely remove all of the oil.

Oil Stain Removal Video

Watch how I use simple soap to remove an oil stain. I didn't use Stain Solver in this video because the oil was spilled as we taped the video.

Older Oil

You can use the same method to attack the older stains in your garage floor. If the concrete finish on the garage floor is quite smooth, you may have a great chance of success.

Smooth steel-troweled concrete is highly resistant to oil stains. This type of finish, though, is unsuitable for exterior concrete. It simply is too slippery when it gets wet. Rough concrete finishes absorb oil rapidly.

Stain Solver oxygen bleach is your best bet for old oil stains. It may take repeated treatments, but the Stain Solver WILL dissolve and lift the oil from the concrete.

Solvents - Maybe?

If the old stains do not respond to the soap and water method you can consider using a solvent like kerosene to help lift the stain. But I do not like to use solvents as they are very dangerous to work with. It's better to use the Stain Solver method above.

The fumes from these products can ignite and cause serious harm to you and your home. If you decide to work with solvents, I would only do so after consulting with your local fire department's fire prevention officer.

Muriatic Acid - Watch Out!

Some people have had success lifting oil stains using muriatic acid. But keep in mind that this chemical, even when mixed one part acid to ten parts water, can and will dissolve some of the cement paste at the surface. Couple this with scrubbing and you very well may alter the appearance of the concrete once it dries.

It's dangerous to work with this powerful acid. Be careful if you go down this pathway of destruction!

Sealers Prevent Oil Stains

Clean concrete can be treated to help minimize the penetration of oil and water that contains dirt and pigments. Some of the best products are clear water and oil repellents that contain silane and siloxane ingredients. Here's a great one:

silane-siloxane-sealer

This is a magnificent silane - siloxane water repellent that soaks into concrete. CLICK THIS IMAGE NOW TO ORDER IT.

These chemical solids help block the tiny pores in concrete to stop water from entering and soaking into the concrete. The silane and siloxane products allow the concrete to breathe. This is very important for concrete that is subjected to freezing temperatures. The clear repellents are easy to apply and dry clear.

Column 368

Outdoor Fire Pit Ideas DIY

Posted on by Tim Carter
Outdoor Fire Pit

This outdoor deck and fire pit weren’t planned well. The owner is now forced to rebuild the fire pit and the deck. (C) Copyright 2017 Tim Carter

Outdoor Fire Pit Ideas DIY TIPS

  • Plan seating area to look at great view beyond fire pit
  • Be aware of wind direction - avoid smoke in your face
  • Large fires get hot - be sure seats are far enough away
  • Embers can catch wood decks on fire
  • CLICK HERE to Get Tim's FREE & FUNNY Newsletter!

DEAR TIM: A neighbor of mine and his wife got into a big fight about their outdoor deck and fire pit. You couldn’t help but overhear.

The husband thought he was building the deck a good size with the fire pit in the center of the deck. The wife told him it was all wrong.

Long story short, the wife was right and now he’s tearing it all apart.

If you’re going to build an outdoor fire pit can you share some tips so everything goes smoothly? What are the top things to consider, especially if you’re building one that’s going to be part of a wood deck? Ron S., Seymour, IN

DEAR RON: I’ve heard some screaming matches like that in my last neighborhood. One day a nearby wife got so mad at her husband she took a baseball bat to the windshield of his favorite car. I don’t know what the fight was about, but it was uncomfortable to listen to across the street.

My Own Lack Of Foresight

I hate to say this, but I’ve been your neighbor but sans the scream fest. Here’s a true story.

Years ago, when I built the dream Queen Anne Victorian house for my wife, I insisted that my office be on the first floor so subcontractors could come into the house and just turn left into my office. In our previous home, they had to walk through the house.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local patio contractors who can build a fire pit for you.

The issue is it made the room on the other side of the wall, our family room with a fireplace, too small. My wife drew the plans and she kept saying, “The family room is too small. Hardly any furniture will fit.”

When I objected after the third time she said, “Well, I can guarantee you one day you’ll be remodeling the two rooms and moving the fireplace to the outside wall.”

Down Comes The Chimney

I heard those words replayed in my head when I was up on my roof taking the first swing of a 4-pound hammer to start to tear down a 35-foot tall chimney that had to be moved just seven feet sideways. Gentlemen, listen to your wives!

I Love Fire Pits

It just so happens fire pits are a minor hobby of mine. I’ve built several and sat around many.

I have one here at my own home, but I neither built the fire pit nor the home. The idiot who built my current fire pit must have been blind.

What Do You Look At?

Here are a few must-have fir pit ideas you should consider. First and foremost, think about any view beyond the fire pit.

It’s not always going to be pitch dark when a fire is roaring and think about what are you looking at over and beyond the fire. Are you sitting there looking at the ugly brick wall of your garage or family room?

Make it something nice if possible. In my case, believe it or not, my back is turned to the third largest lake in New Hampshire when I sit at my own fire pit. The idiot who built my fire pit has you looking away from the lake.

Smoke In Your Face?

Second, it’s very important to consider any prevailing winds. Some backyards have a particular direction the wind blows. The wind may not blow that direction all the time, but frequently.

You don’t want the seating area around the fire pit to be downwind of the fire as everyone will be rubbing their eyes or getting flying embers into their clothes.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local patio contractors who can build a fire pit for you.

Radiant Heat - Sit Back!

Think about how hot fires get. If you have a roaring fire, you often can’t be any closer than 4 or 5 feet to the edge of the fire or you roast.

This means that the seating area needs to be at least 10 feet deep from the edge of the fire pit so there’s enough room in front of any chairs and room to walk behind the chairs.

Embers Cause Unwanted Fires

I’ll bet if you talk with your local fire department captain she or he will tell you a story about a deck that caught on fire from an ember or leaves under a deck that ignited. It’s very bad when these fires erupt after everyone has left the deck and the fire is in the smoldering stage.

I’d create a masonry hearth around the fire pit that’s at least 18 inches deep. You want no wood or decking within 18 inches of the edge of the fire pit. Your local code may call for a greater distance, so refer to it for guidance.

Ring Of Safety

Think about leaf debris and anything else that’s combustible that could accumulate near or around the fire pit. Keep an 8-foot ring of safety and possibly more.

If you can afford it and are willing to do the work, I’d run a seasonal water line, even if it’s just a great garden hose in an underground large conduit pipe, so you have running water right next to the fire pit in case something goes wrong.

How nice would it be to just turn a valve and have a charged garden hose right there to put out an out-of-control fire.

Fire Pit Diameter

The diameter of the fire pit should be no less than 3 feet and 5 feet is more than enough. Ring it with stone or other fireproof material. The height of the stone should be about 1 foot above the ground level where you stack the wood that will make the fire.

Wood Storage

Plan a spot for wood storage so that it doesn’t take up valuable deck space where a chair might be. You want the wood close enough so it’s not a hassle to retrieve, but not so close that it could catch fire from a rogue ember that wanders from the fire pit.

Build A Test Fire

As crazy as this sounds, it’s always best to build a test fire where you think you’ll have the fire pit. Make the fire as large as you normally might have it.

See how close you can comfortably sit. Use string to outline how much space you want behind the chairs. This simple test will ensure you build the best fire pit and the perfect deck or patio that will surround it.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local patio contractors who can build a fire pit for you.

Column 1192

April 13, 2017 AsktheBuilder Newsletter

Posted on by Tim Carter

Roofing Ripoff

Are you a new or newer subscriber? This is sort of a wacky open to my newsletter.

If you're a seasoned subscriber you know I try all the time to save you money. I do that by telling you about great products and about secret tips that can make sure work you do around your house LASTS a LONG TIME.

That said, late yesterday morning my wife Kathy and I had a brief conversation. What you need to know is that less than two days ago I released my huge expose' book Roofing Ripoff.

It's a saga about how asphalt shingles are falling apart on homes much faster than they're supposed to.

Your existing asphalt shingle roof could be DOOMED - but you can save it if it's still in good shape.

Anyway, here's the conversation:

Kathy: "Are you happy with how many people have purchased the book?"

Me: "Not really."

Kathy: "Why?"

Me: "I'm really confused. The statistics show that 80-percent of houses in the USA have asphalt shingle roofs. I would think that perhaps 80-percent of my subscribers would have an asphalt roof over their head and wanted to get the book.

Well, maybe less because Russell and Phil down in Australia don't have asphalt. Oh, and then there's Johan over in Europe, he's probably got slate. Ooops, I almost forgot LH in Indonesia, my guess is he's got a metal roof.

But probably 70 percent of my subscribers have asphalt shingle roofs! While many orders have come in, it's not even close to 70 percent of our subscribers."

Kathy: "It's got to be your fault. You know you often write too many words about stuff and maybe you're not being CLEAR about why people need the book.

Maybe you're guilty of what you accuse rookie writers of doing. Maybe you're leaving something SIMPLE out of your message."

Me: "I thought I was being pretty clear, but maybe I need to try something else. I just can't figure out why a person who has an asphalt shingle roof on their house right now wouldn't want to know how to make it last another 10, 20 or 25 years."

Kathy then walked down the steps to her office leaving me thinking about what I must be doing wrong.

Last night I had a dream. Here's what I saw in the dream:

Please answer these two questions:

If you have an existing asphalt shingle roof no matter its age and it’s in good condition, would you like to extend its useful life another 10 or 20 years?

Yes
No

If you’re about to install a new asphalt shingle roof, would you like to know how to make it last for 40 or 50 years?

Yes
No

If you answered YES to either question, you MUST READ my new book NOW.

That was the dream.

If you have an existing roof in good shape, my book can put off you spending THOUSANDS of DOLLARS on a replacement roof. In other words, instead of having to put on a new roof next year or two years from now, you may not have to do it for 10 or 15 years!

If you're going to install a NEW ROOF soon, then my book can save you MANY HUNDREDS of DOLLARS now and most certainly THOUSANDS of DOLLARS in the future.

Here's one more thing.

How about a 100% SATISFACTION GUARANTEE?

If you download the book now, and you feel you didn't get your money's worth or feel ripped offed - that's a pun on the book title - I'll give you your money back NO QUESTIONS ASKED.

If you're one who wants a paperback copy, I get it. I understand why you didn't order yet.

The paperback book is in production NOW and should be available in about three weeks.

But if you would like a PDF version or an Amazon Kindle version - both are electronic - then you can read Roofing Ripoff RIGHT NOW.

CLICK HERE to get the PDF version.

CLICK HERE to get the Amazon Kindle version.

New Cordless Hammer Drill

Today Brian, my UPS driver, is going to deliver this new Bosch hammer drill. They call it the Bulldog Brushless.

I told Andy, the Bosch public relations (PR) representative, that I was going to put it to the ultimate test.

"Tim, what's the ultimate test?" Andy asked.

"Hah, I'm going to use it to drill into the SOLID Meredith Porphyritic GRANITE LEDGE that towers above my driveway, that's what I'm going to do," I exclaimed.

So tomorrow, I'm going to do just that and will report back to you.

We'll see what kind of appetite the Bulldog has for GRANITE which is much harder than concrete!

Arrow Staplers

The good folks at Arrow Staplers want me to tape some useful videos showing how well the tools work and how EASY it is to do projects.

I've got a question:

Would YOU like to VOTE on what projects you'd like to see me do in the videos?

CLICK HERE and just answer the simple question.

My Clogged Main Drain

Remember on Tuesday when I told you I had to deal with a sewer clog in my own home?

CLICK HERE to read the story. I revised a column that was a PERFECT FIT.

That's enough for today.

Seriously, get a copy of Roofing Ripoff.

You have NOTHING TO RISK - well you really do.

If you DON'T buy a copy, you could LOSE THOUSANDS OF DOLLARS.

Tim Carter
Founder - www.AsktheBuilder.com

Do It Right, Not Over!

April 11, 2017 AsktheBuilder Newsletter

Posted on by Tim Carter

Roofing Ripoff Book

If you're a new subscriber to this newsletter in the past week, please understand this issue could be one of the most unusual I've ever sent.

I've been waiting for this day now for 15 months. Today you can purchase my Roofing Ripoff book.

It was ready yesterday, but a major building drain clog under my basement floor prevented me from uploading the book and getting this announcement to you. I'll share the story about the clog, how I fixed it, and what caused it, later this week.

A Serendipitous Moment

Yesterday morning, my sister texted me saying, "Did you realize if Dad were still alive, he'd be 100 today?"

Wow.

My Dad's 100th birthday the same day (this is before I found out about the sewer clog) as I release what I feel will become my legacy work.

I so wish he could be here to see it, as well as my Mom. We had to send both back to Heaven years ago.

I mention both my mom and dad in the book acknowledgements. The freedom I was granted early in life helped get me farther along faster.

Book Formats

There will be three formats for the book. Two are NOW AVAILABLE.

PDF format - electronic (Available NOW)
Amazon Kindle format (Available NOW)
Paperback - available on or before May 15, 2017, if all goes well

WHO NEEDS The Book?

If you answer YES to any of the following questions, you NEED to read Roofing Ripoff now:

  • Is your asphalt shingle roof ten or more years old and still in good shape?
  • Is your asphalt shingle roof ten or less years old and in very good shape?
  • Is your asphalt shingle roof new in the last three years?
  • Are you getting ready to install a new asphalt shingle roof?

Why?

Because in Chapter 11, I share with you a MAJOR DISCOVERY how you can extend the life of your asphalt shingles MANY YEARS.

Do you understand that?

If you have an EXISTING ROOF that's in GOOD SHAPE, you need to read about the discovery!!!!!

FREE CHAPTERS

CLICK HERE to read the first three chapters for FREE.

Price

Roofing Ripoff is going to save you thousands of dollars. There's no doubt about it.

The RETAIL price of the book, and price of the paperback, is $24.95.

The two electronic formats are on SALE NOW for $19.95.

I guarantee you that you'll feel it's worth every penny once you read what's going on and how you can EXTEND the LIFE of your new or existing roof.

CLICK HERE to order the PDF format.

CLICK HERE to order the Amazon Kindle version.

Questions / Confused?

Do you have QUESTIONS about the book? Are you unsure if you really need it?

JUST ASK ME.

That's enough for today.

I'm SO EXCITED to hear what you think of the book. Please write to me after you read it with your thoughts so I can share them.

IMPORTANT NOTE: If you purchase an Amazon Kindle version and feel the book is worthy of 5 STARS, please consider writing a review.

That's enough for today.

I'll have a regular newsletter for you on Friday, I hope!

I don't know if things are going to be very normal after today. When you read Roofing Ripoff, you'll understand why.

Tim Carter
Founder - www.AsktheBuilder.com

Do It Right, Not Over!

Wood Deck Resurfacing Ideas

Posted on by Tim Carter
Wood Deck Resurfacing

This deck in West Virginia gets punishing sunlight all day. Deck sealers are no match for the sun. Look at how this deck sealer is starting to peel. CLICK HERE to purchase my TEST RESULTS about the BEST DECK SEALER. (C) Copyright 2017 Tim Carter

Wood Deck Resurfacing Ideas and TIPS

  • Exotic hardwoods decking is hard to install and seal
  • Sun and water ruin traditional treated lumber
  • WATCH deck cleaning video below for non-toxic deck cleaner.
  • Composite decking and railing is what I now have
  • CLICK HERE to Get Tim's FREE & FUNNY Newsletter!

DEAR TIM: My wood deck sits in the sun all day with no shade. It’s now treated lumber and requires sealing every other year. I’ve tried lots of different sealers all with the same results.

I’m tired of all the work and I need some wood deck resurfacing ideas. I wonder if you have any experience with the exotic hardwoods like Tigerwood.

My husband and I are also thinking about composite decking, but it’s quite pricey. What has been your experience with wood decks and what would you do if you were me? Diane K., Morgantown, WV

DEAR DIANE: You’re in the same boat as many homeowners. In fact, I was in this boat up until a year ago. Allow me to share forty years of experience in just one thousand words. Keep in mind this column was written for newspapers and they impose a word limit on my work.

Hardwood Decks Are Hardest

I’ve built countless wood decks. They’ve been all sizes, shapes and I’ve used all sorts of different wood species.

The exotic hardwoods are some of the hardest to install because many of them are so hard and dense, you have to pre-drill all the fastener holes. Keep that in mind if you do decide to use that material. By all means get a sample piece and play with it to see how hard it is to install.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local deck cleaning & sealing contractors if you're tired of doing all the work.

Treated Lumber Rots & Cracks

My guess is a vast majority of wood decks that are out there have treated wood decking and railing systems. Treated wood currently is the least expensive material to use.

The downside is that treated lumber may resist wood rot and insect infestation, but it can’t resist the punishing effects of the ultraviolet (UV) light of the sun. What’s more, wood is hygroscopic and it expands and contracts with respect to moisture content.

UV Light Destroys Treated Lumber

If you don’t seal treated lumber with some coating, the UV light will destroy the natural color pigments and the lignin that bonds the wood fibers together. Just as our skin needs sunscreen to prevent sunburn, so does wood.

Solid Color Stain = Cheap Paint & Peels

Paint is perhaps the best UV protector for treated lumber, but it peels easily. Paint is a film that lays on top of the wood. Many solid-color stains are really paint, so don’t fall for that marketing trick. If you’ve ever had a painted deck that’s peeled, you only make that mistake one time as it’s a nightmare to refinish and re-coat.

Semi-Transparent Sealers = Film Formers

Many deck sealers have the consistency of traditional penetrating wood stains and one would think they soak into the wood fibers. They do soak in, but I’ve discovered that many of them are also film formers.

Some of these stains leave a thin hard resin coating on the top of the wood and this thin layer tends to peel in two or three years. If you do stain, it’s best to get one with a medium colored pigment. The pigment particles sacrifice themselves to the UV light before it gets to the wood fibers.

I did my own independent test of major brand deck sealers. CLICK HERE to see Before and After photos of the test results.

wood deck resurfacing

This deck in West Virginia gets punishing sunlight all day. Moonlight hits it on some nights. (C) Copyright 2017 Tim Carter

Water Creates Cracks

Water also can destroy treated lumber over time. This is why you need to keep treated lumber sealed so water can’t penetrate into it. If water is allowed to soak into lumber, it causes the wood to swell. When the wood dries out the wood shrinks. This movement creates tiny checking cracks in the lumber.

The next time it rains, the water can soak in deeper using the cracks as a pathway. The expansion and contraction movement is amplified because more of the wood is expanding and contracting. The cracks get wider and deeper. Eventually the treated lumber starts to resemble a fifty-year-old fishing pier.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local deck cleaning & sealing contractors if you're tired of doing all the work.

UV Light Destroys Sealers

The issue is even the best deck sealing products don’t hold up well against the harsh UV light. I did my own extensive testing of many major brands of deck sealers about four years ago. Some failed within ninety days. CLICK HERE to purchase my deck sealer test results.

The best one lasted two years before it finally started to peel a little bit. By the end of year three, the best performing sealer looked bad enough that it was time to strip it and start over. It’s a huge amount of work to strip or sand a wood deck and reseal it.

Deck Cleaning Video

NEVER pressure wash a wood deck. It DESTROYS the light-colored spring wood. Use Stain Solver - a certified organic oxygen bleach - to clean the wood. Watch this video about how to clean a wood deck.

I Switched To Composite

I believe this is why many homeowners have gravitated to the composite decking and railing systems. These materials have been around for almost two decades at this point. As with all materials, the first and second generations were not the best. Sometimes it takes a few attempts until you finally get it right.

I believe a few of the composite decking manufacturers have got it right. Last year I was tired of my decking and failing wood-railing system. It needed work and I had gotten to the point that I no longer wanted to deal with periodic sealing.

wood deck resurfacing

This deck in West Virginia gets punishing sunlight all day. (C) Copyright 2017 Tim Carter

I went with a major brand decking that offered a capped system. I know you'll ask the brand and it was Trex Transcend.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local deck contractors who will REPLACE your wood deck with a COMPOSITE one like I have.

The core of my composite decking is a blend of wood fiber and plastic, but the top wear surface and the edges are capped with a virgin vinyl that’s both embossed and has coloration to simulate real wood graining.

My wife is a very harsh critic of anything synthetic in building products. She’s never liked any of the composite decking materials until she saw this one.

tim carter trex deck

This is the deck on my own home. The upper deck was original with the house and the lower deck I built the summer of 2016. The original upper deck had Generation 1 Trex on it that looked great for 15 years. Copyright 2017 Tim Carter

The samples in your hand or small mock-up decks at the lumberyards don’t look that appealing, but once the product is installed on the deck and you look across it, it really does look very realistic. My wife approves of the composite we have and loves to sit on our deck in the afternoon.

Composite Railings Easy To Install

My new railing system is also care-free and it was easy to install. I’d recommend that you take a serious look at all the top-of-the-line composite deck and railing products and see which one appeals to you.

You’ll not regret switching over. Be sure you select one that has a hidden fastening system. I don’t have any visible fastener holes anywhere on my deck or railing.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local deck contractors who will REPLACE your wood deck with a COMPOSITE one like I have.

Column 1191

Paint Your Aluminum Siding

Posted on by Tim Carter

Painting Your Aluminum Siding

UPDATE:  New information regarding painting aluminum has been added to this column. Be sure to check the Author's Notes following the article.

The first room addition I ever built was on the west side of Cincinnati. It was a master bedroom expansion.

The existing house had aluminum siding. I was able to get the same siding, however the color didn't match the existing siding. The owner said it wasn't a problem. He suggested that I give him a bid to paint the entire house and the new addition.

I did some homework and found out that you could successfully paint aluminum siding. The job turned out just fine. Two things played an important role: choosing the right paint and getting the siding ready for paint.

Free & Fast Bids

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local painters who can paint your aluminum siding.

Metal + Paint = BINGO!

Metal is a wonderful surface to paint. Unlike wood, it moves very little. Think about all the metal things you've seen painted:

  • cars and truck
  • lawnmowers
  • wheelbarrows
  • tools
  • traffic signs

Rarely will you see paint peel from these things unless they're poorly maintained. Paint loves to stick to metal.

Wood Is Hygroscopic

Wood offers tremendous challenges. It can and does absorb water. It's hygroscopic meaning it expands and contracts in response to the amount of moisture in the wood.

The wood itself can change its size dramatically causing the paint film to detach. Metals, including aluminum, do not pose these problems. Metals don't absorb water and they don't expand and contract to the degree wood does. They are a perfect surface for paint.

Why Paint Fades

OK, OK, so the salesman lied. He told you the aluminum siding would be "...maintenance free. You'll never have to...."

Guess what? He was wrong! All paints fade over time.

Sunlight, acid rain, and air breakdown the clear resins that surround the pigment or color particles. This causes the finish to become dull. It also permits the soft pigment particles to be released from the film.

That is what is causing those white stains on your brick!

Not All Paints Equal

Some paints will fade before others. This fading is a function of the quality and quantity of resin in the paint.

The resin is the most important ingredient in paint. It's the glue that allows the paint to stick to things and itself.

There are different types of resin. Two of the most popular are vinyl acetate and acrylic. Acrylic resins cost twice as much as vinyl acetate. They also last longer and are more flexible.

Urethane The Best

In my opinion, the best exterior paints are those that contain urethane resins. You know how sticky urethane is if you've ever applied it to wood. It's almost impossible to remove.

The same urethane resin in paint makes the paint really hold onto anything it touches. CLICK HERE to get a great exterior paint that contains urethane resin.

Here's a great porch paint you can tint to any color you want. CLICK THE IMAGE TO BUY IT NOW.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local painters who can paint your aluminum siding.

Companion Articles:  Aluminum Gutters Can Be Painted, Aluminum Siding Painting Tips, Aluminum Siding Paint Manufacturers, Aluminum Siding - Paint and Primer Tips

Author's Notes: The following updated information was received from the Paint Quality Institute.  Debbie Zimmer addresses ammonia in latex paints and the resulting bubbling.

"Hi Tim,

Thanks so much for your questions and comments.  Regarding ammonia in latex paints, it is so low today that the off gassing (resulting in bubbling) is really not a factor.
 
Here are a few detailed points to consider:
 
1. Bare Aluminum: forms a strong oxide layer which is easy to stick to and is relatively inert to ammonia. Some folks confuse ammonia with acid. Yes --- acid will generate some hydrogen gas but there should not be a reaction with ammonia.
 
2. All Aluminum Siding is coated. This again generally results in a surface that is easy to stick to but for all intents and purposes, relatively inert to water-based paints. Even under poor conditions, incidental exposure to Aluminum should not be a problem because of above (1).
 
Also, on occasion, we do speak about oxygen bleach but typically use the more common (common to homeowners) "bleach" term.  Perhaps we should use oxygen bleach more often.  We don't use brand names (in any of our materials), such as Clorox.
 
Tim, I'm really glad you asked the questions --- it helps us make our educational information stronger.
 
If you are ever in the Philadelphia, PA area, I would love to take you on a tour of our PQI facilities --- we have over 30,000 paint panels on exposure (a few dating back to the '50's) and 1000's with the most recent and forward looking technologies. In addition, our "farm" contains over 200 different surfaces and substrates (painted/not painted) on exposure as well.
 
Thanks again,"
Debbie Zimmer
PQI Director of Communications and Alliances
Dow Coating Materials, North America
The Dow Chemical Company

Updated: April - 2017

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local painters who can paint your aluminum siding.

Column B274