Silicone Caulk

Posted on by Tim Carter
Installing silicone caulk

Installing silicone caulk can be tricky. Try to squeeze out the exact amount you need. PHOTO CREDIT: Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: Caulking is not my favorite job. I have to use silicone caulk to seal a leaking shower enclosure. Can you offer any tips on caulk removal so I do not damage the metal or the marble curb? What is the secret when working with silicone caulk? I always end up with a mess. Beth S., Sarasota, FL

DEAR BETH: Silicone caulk is a fantastic product, but many will agree with you that it isn't user friendly. Not only can you get really irritated with the mess it creates, but also be very careful if you wear contact lenses. The fumes that are generated as the caulk cures can cause significant eye irritation. Be sure to read the safety label on the caulk tube before you use it.

I recently had to do a nearly identical job in a home I just purchased. The silicone caulk joint between a marble threshold and the aluminum shower enclosure had failed. To make matters worse, the tile setter placed the marble threshold so it had a reverse tilt. Water would pool against the aluminum frame instead of rolling back into the shower. This little bit of hydrostatic pressure caused the water to seep under the aluminum frame and soak the adjoining wall.

Years ago I discovered that to successfully caulk tubs and showers, the joint that is to be caulked needs to be dry. I have a feeling the previous owner knew about this leak as it appeared the joint had been caulked multiple times but with little success. My suspicion is the repairs never worked as the silicone caulk they used was not able to make a good bond. Water was trapped under the aluminum frame and seeped out as the caulk was applied.

I was lucky and was able to use another shower in the house so the leaking one could dry for weeks. If you can't do this, then maybe think about getting ready to do the repair just before you go on vacation or out of town on business. As soon as you get back, install the silicone caulk on a dry joint.

Caulk removal can be tough. I have had great success using an old-fashioned straight-edged razor blade. In my case, I was able to hold the blade at a very low angle slicing between the old silicone caulk and the marble. This didn't cause any scratches. I then cut down through the old caulk with the blade as close to the aluminum frame as possible, but not touching it. The beads of old silicone caulk peeled off the shower like pulling up a strand of spaghetti from a plate. You will probably have the same luck.

I then used some rubbing alcohol to clean the marble and the aluminum frame making sure both surfaces were bone dry and clean. Caulk is really an adhesive, so it works best when surfaces are very clean.

Because I have caulked things for years, I knew how big to cut the tip of the new silicone-caulk tube. This is very important. Make the diameter of the hole no larger than one-sixteenth-inch wide. You do this by cutting the tip of the tube in small passes. It is easy to cut the hole too large.

To get professional results, you must squeeze the caulk from the tube slowly and evenly. A good caulk gun does this with ease. Inexpensive caulk guns will cause you nothing but headaches. A great caulk gun usually costs double or triple what a cheap one costs. It is the best money you will ever spend on a tool.

The secret trick I have used all these years is to apply just enough silicone caulk that when I immediately smooth it with my finger, no excess caulk oozes out around my finger onto the surfaces. Since we all have fingers that come in different sizes, you will need to experiment to determine how much caulk works with your finger.

My advice to you is to make a test corner using two scrap pieces of ceramic tile. Glue them to the inside of a low cardboard box. Start practicing on these mockups until you master the technique. It is not as hard as you might think. I like to caulk a strip about 2-feet long before wiping it with my finger. Be sure to have paper towels on hand to clean up any accidents.

Another secret tip when working with silicone caulk is to wear old clothes and work in a well-ventilated space. The fumes generated by the curing silicone caulk are very strong. If you get silicone caulk on clothing, it is nearly impossible to remove it from the fibers.

You can absolutely get professional results if you take some time and practice. Be sure to take your time applying a smooth bead of silicone caulk, not one that has blobs and voids. When your finger hits a blob of caulk, there is no doubt some will ooze out onto the marble and aluminum creating a massive mess.

Remember that the caulk needs to fully cure before you use your shower again. Don't be fooled thinking the silicone caulk is dry just because it may be tack free within an hour. To fully cure, it needs to react with water vapor in the air. In dry climates, it can take two or three days for your new silicone caulk to fully cure.

Column 742

Press Release

Posted on by Tim Carter

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August 24, 2008 AsktheBuilder News

Posted on by Tim Carter

What's in This Issue

DVD WINNERS
GUTTER GUARD NEWS
LED FLASHLIGHT
THE FINAL MOVE TO NEW HAMPSHIRE
VINYL TILE AND LINOLEUM GLUE ON HARDWOOD FLOORING
DEPOSIT MONEY AND PAYING CONTRACTORS
LATEST COLUMNS AND VIDEO

DVD Winners

In the last newsletter, I had a contest to give away 5 DVDs. The challenge was to tell me what my first job was. Five subscribers had the correct answer to me within 25 minutes of me hitting the Send button in my newsletter software. To put that into perspective, it can take up to ten minutes or more to blast out the newsletter to the tens of thousands of people on the list.

Then keep in mind you have to read the newsletter, and then go hunt for the answer. The article about the DVD giveaway was not a top article, but it was mentioned in the What's in This Issue. So congrats to: Marcia, Robert, Billy, Doug and Chuck.

The correct answer was I collected paper-route money for the Cincinnati Enquirer. I was eight-years old at the time. Two years later, I got my own paper route delivering the seven-star edition of the Cincinnati Post and Times Star. That was the afternoon paper as the Enquirer is still the morning paper, well at least for the next few years. My prediction is that the Enquirer, and many daily newspapers, will fail very soon. In my opinion, the newspaper industry is on life support, and some who work within it are in denial. That is a subject for another day!

Gutter Guard News

On Friday, Mikey, a pro from the East Coast, finished installing a specific gutter guard on my house here in Cincinnati. Kathy wanted the roof to be problem-free for the next two years while I am in NH and she is here holding down the fort while our youngest finishes high school.

I have been testing all sorts of gutter guards for years. There are multiple columns at my website about them. Just type Gutter Guard into my search engine. Virtually every one I tested failed over time, especially in the spring of the year. But within the past 21 months, I discovered at least two that held promise.

I tested these two side-by-side on my garage under the same tree. One of the gutter guards passed with flying colors. That is the one I decided to install on my home.

Three days ago, I shot a video showing the two gutter guards so you can see what I saw up on the roof. The results are crystal clear. The video will be ready for you to view in the next few weeks. I will reveal the name of the gutter guard I chose, and how to get it at that time. So relax for now and please restrain yourself from emailing me about the name. I ask for you to be patient for another few weeks. You will have plenty of time to order this fantastic gutter guard and install it before the leaves fall this season.

Several Months Into the Test

The video below is what my garage roof looked like after months of testing. It's very obvious that the way the gutter guard is installed makes a very big difference:

LED Flashlight

As you might imagine, I am approached on a regular basis by manufacturers to review and test their products. In fact, overnight I got an email from yet another gutter-guard manufacturer.

LED technology has overtaken the flashlight industry over the past few years. These electronic marvels are great as they use less electricity and there is no filament to break as you would find in a traditional light bulb.

I was sent a Duracell Daylite LED flashlight that uses two AA batteries. It is perfect for a backpack as it is just under 6 inches long. I liked everything about it but the focusing lens. I tested this in complete darkness in my basement. When you rotate the lens, the outer ring of light stays the same and the inner cone of light does get a little tighter. It didn't perform like I thought it would.

All in all it is not a bad product. But if you are looking for a flashlight that delivers a really tightly focused beam, this is not it. I am sure this flashlight will work well for me at night as I go for a walk and come up from the dock down by the lake. One thing I really liked was the on and off switch. It's located in the base of the handle.

The Final Move to New Hampshire

On Monday August 25th, I will be driving with my son Tristan to New Hampshire. I was up there exactly a month ago moving into a house on the shore of Lake Winnisquam. This house is my abode for the next two years, and it will become the permanent world headquarters of AsktheBuilder.com.

My oldest daughter Meghan of www.AsktheDecorator.com fame has been living in the house since we closed a month ago. After the closing and move in, I had to scoot back to Cincinnati to relocate the Stain Solver business into its new warehouse. Wow, did that take longer than I thought. Of course, I'd never relocated a business, so I had no base line to go on.

Tristan starts school up in Burlington, VT at Champlain College in a few days, so he and I are headed up to get him settled. The point is I will soon be a Yankee as my realtor friend Fred Hoffmeister says! I am looking forward to it, and hope that you and I can cross paths if you live nearby. Let's plan on getting together for a cup of bean juice one morning.

Vinyl Tile and Linoleum Glue on Hardwood Flooring

Janice Kolesar, who lives about 40 miles north of New York City, asked me how in the world does one get the glue used to put down linoleum and vinyl tiles off hardwood flooring without ruining the hardwood.

The answer is simple. You use an adhesive remover. These products are nearly identical to paint strippers as paint is simply a form of glue or adhesive. The other method is to just sand off the glue with a drum sander. You need to be careful though in case the glue has asbestos in it. That can be determined by sending a small sample of the glue to a testing lab.

Odds are Janice is removing the vinyl flooring to revive the hardwood. If so, sanding is probably the best bet since it will be a needed step to bring the wood floor back to its original beauty.

Deposit Money and Paying Contractors

Last week, I said I would continue the discussion about how to pay contractors. Perhaps the best way to get a discussion going is to list several of my past columns where I share stories and tips.

One thing is certain: You must never let a contractor allow you to be upside down on a job. This happens when there is more work to be completed than there is money to pay for it. Rest assured tens of thousands of homeowners have been bamboozled by this common scam.

Read these past columns and feel free to leave comments and stories at the bottom of each if you have something to share that could help someone:

Tips on Paying Contractors

The Other Side of the Fence - Be Fair to a Contractor

When to Pay a Contractor

Latest Columns and Video

Do you have a concrete sidewalk or driveway where the surface is falling apart? A concrete overlay can give it new life. This method works in all climates.

Have you dreamed of framing your own home? Nicole did and it's about to become a reality. Discover what Nicole is about to experience.

Have you put off painting your house? This video may help!

Index of past newsletters.

Fireplace Hearth

Posted on by Tim Carter
roughed-in concrete hearth

This roughed-in concrete hearth is ready for some thin slate or tile. PHOTO CREDIT: Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: I have an existing concrete fireplace hearth. Is it possible to cover this fireside hearth with slate? If so, is that a difficult task? Instead of slate, should I just install a hearth pad? I am really confused about what to do. Marianne C., Millis, MA

DEAR MARIANNE: You can cover the concrete hearth with slate, tile, stone or just about any other non-flammable building product. If you had x-ray vision, like some super heroes, you would see concrete just below many of the hearths in older and even modern homes. Builders like myself install these concrete hearths as an extension of the concrete pad that the fireplace is built upon.

Usually the biggest challenge is planning ahead so the finished floor in the main part of the room transitions cleanly with the finished material on the hearth. Sometimes this is handled by creating a raised hearth where both the hearth and the firebox are higher than the finished floor in the room.

I happen to prefer that the top of the finished hearth is at the same elevation as the underside of hardwood flooring that is in the room. This way a beveled strip of hardwood flooring can overlap the finished hearth for a very professional look. To achieve this look, all you have to do is pour the concrete lower than the wood subfloor of the house. The distance you drop the concrete is a function of the thickness of the material you are placing on the concrete and the thin layer of adhesive you will use to attach it to the concrete.

Slate will bond easily to the concrete hearth you have. I would use thinset adhesive, which is just a blend of Portland cement, silica sand and often some chemical bonding agents. The thinset is also fireproof.

Perhaps your biggest challenge in working with slate is that all cuts need to be made with a diamond wet saw or by hand using a carbide rod saw that fits into a standard hacksaw. You can't use a standard ceramic-tile snapper cutter with slate as the slate will fracture along an uneven line. It is possible to layout all of the slate and pre-mark all of the pieces to cut. Sometimes the slate store has a saw they will use to cut the pieces you bring back. Not all stores offer this great service.

Slate is a great material to use for a fireplace hearth for a number of reasons. It is a very durable natural stone, it is attractive and looks fantastic next to a burning fire, it is easy to clean and is available in a variety of mottled natural tones including red.

If you try to solve your dilemma with a hearth pad, I feel you may have a problem finding one the right size. Hearth pads are pre-made thin platforms that you just set on the floor. Some come covered with tile and I have seen some made with slate. Many of the hearth pads I have seen come in a few popular sizes. It may be very hard to locate one that covers your existing concrete hearth, and is also proportioned correctly for the room.

You can always resort to building your own custom hearth pad to cover the concrete already in place, but I feel all this effort should be concentrated on just installing the slate you want in the first place.

If you have any trepidation about installing slate, I would propose you making your own test hearth pad in your garage. Purchase a small piece of cement board that is perhaps 30 x 36 inches. Get some discount slate and just apply it to the cement board. Forget about making cuts unless you want to do it by hand with the carbide rod saw. My guess is that you will discover in short order that the slate goes down with little effort.

When working with slate or tile for a fireplace hearth, it is important to think about how the material will look against the other flooring materials that are adjacent to the hearth. If the slate butts up against hardwood flooring, a grout line between the slate and wood flooring often looks best. If the slate is surrounded by carpet, eliminate this grout line.

Be sure to seal the slate with a grout-release sealer before grouting the slate. This clear chemical helps minimize grout messes with slate. It is hard to grout slate because the surface of slate is uneven. The thin layers of minerals in the slate that create its gorgeous texture also are the bane of tile setters who struggle to clean all grout from the surface of slate.

The slate surface will be ready to walk on about 48 hours after the grout has been installed. It is best to keep the grout damp for this wait period. The presence of water will help strengthen the grout so it can be as durable as the slate.

Column 741

Affiliate Sales Program Requirements

Posted on by Tim Carter

Do you want AsktheBuilder to become an affiliate to sell your product?

If so, we have a few requirements. The first and foremost is that you have to forward a $2,500 retainer that we work against as we send you qualified sales or leads.

The reason we ask for a retainer is simple. Any new customer who buys traditional ad space at AsktheBuilder.com pays us in advance. Credit is a privilege, not a right. You would be a new customer.

Furthermore, we already know we will deliver the traffic. With over 37,000 unique visitors per day, it is just a matter of how many sales/leads per day you will get. Just as you put a deposit down for custom-ordered materials like eyeglasses, kitchen cabinets, perhaps a custom door, you need to place a deposit with us so we can deliver these custom pre-qualified leads.

This retainer policy is NON-NEGOTIABLE.

In closing, please realize that traditional affiliate deals, where we get paid after the transaction has occurred requires, AsktheBuilder.com to assume all of the risk:

  1. We incur expenses to set up the campaign.
  2. We give up valuable ad inventory.
  3. We send traffic away from our site that might have clicked some other ad.
  4. We deliver high-quality traffic.

To do all of these things on the hope of getting paid is simply unacceptable. If you want to enter into a business arrangement with us, then you have to share some of the risk.

Tim Carter
Founder / AsktheBuilder.com

Contact Ad Sales now!


Return to Advertising Rates and Programs.

Framing House

Posted on by Tim Carter
How to Frame a House

If you want to discover the depth of your ignorance about house framing, then start with a small project like an outdoor shed. PHOTO CREDIT: Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: Framing a house has been a dream of mine for years. My husband thinks I should get some professional help, and I am not talking about a construction framing crew. Do you think a woman can handle wood framing and framing walls for a new home? What is involved? Are the walls heavy? Is it hard to do floor framing? What advice can you give me to live my dream? Nicole A., Birmingham, AL

DEAR NICOLE: When you dream, you don't mess around! Framing a house is a daunting task, not for the weak or timid. It is hard, but rewarding work. I have framed many houses and have to tell you that I came home bone tired on many a day. Carrying around sixteen-foot 2x12's and large sheets of three-quarter-inch subflooring can really wear you out. Is it work for a woman? I say absolutely yes. You can do it, although it may take every ounce of strength you possess.

But don't let that stop you as there are all sorts of ways you can discover how to move heavy objects with minimal effort. You may not be the fastest framer, but you will accomplish your goal. To start you on the wood-framing pathway, I urge you to tackle a beginner project where you can get a taste of what you are up against. An outdoor shed is a perfect project as it has all of the components of house framing in a compact size. You can even learn roof framing with a shed-framing project.

Books have been written about framing a house, large books I might add, so it is impossible for me to give you all the direction you need in this small article. In my opinion, the foremost important thing to know is that you will never regret starting your framing project knowing it is both square and level.

The importance of the footprint of the house, the joist layout, the walls, etc. being square can't be overemphasized. When the floor and the walls are square, simple things like fitting the large sheets of subflooring, wall sheathing and roof sheathing become very easy. You know a rectangle or a square is square when the four corners are each 90 degrees. The floorplan of your house is almost always a combination of rectangles and squares that are bunched together.

There are all sorts of methods of wall framing, but I prefer framing the walls on the subfloor and covering them with the wall sheathing as they lay flat. Then you tilt them up as if they came from a factory. If you frame these walls taking the time to get them square, then they will fit together perfectly as you connect them together.

It is really important to stack the framing components. This means wall studs should line up directly above floor joists below. This allows loads to be transferred directly to the foundation. Your heating contractor and plumber will also thank you for this, as it makes it easy for them to install ducts and pipes. If you have a second story, the floor joists of the second story need to line up directly above the wall studs below.

You should absolutely become intimately familiar with the building code. There are many aspects of the code that deal with framing a house. You need to be aware of the span tables, notching and boring of joists and studs, beam construction and support, and many other things about connecting framing components together. Some things are obvious, while others are not. For example, my guess is that you might never think that you have to use special nails when attaching metal joist hangers to beams. Rookie house framers have been known to use roofing nails which is a gross violation of the building code.

Before starting your smaller test job on the shed, I would highly recommend that you go to the library to see if you can borrow several books on framing a house. I have my own extensive library of reference books, many from years ago. The old books contain some clever tricks I have not seen in modern publications. You can't absorb too much information on how to build walls and floors before you start to frame that dream of yours!

You can frame a house by yourself, but it is so much easier with a helper or two. You will need help lifting things, checking diagonal measurements, and holding things while you are bracing a wall. If you can get a helper that has some house-framing experience, you will never regret it.

Be sure to check wall studs and floor joists for crowning. A crown is a curve in the lumber. If you look at bridges, they all have a crown to them where the center is much higher than the ends of the bridge. All crowns in lumber should point up towards the sky. Lumber that is severely crowned should not be used. Set it aside for return or use it for small pieces of blocking.

Column 740

August 14, 2008 AsktheBuilder News

Posted on by Tim Carter

What's in This Issue

GRANITE COUNTERTOPS AND RADON
COMPOSITE DECKING ANNOUNCEMENT
SEPTIC TANK INFORMATION
THE STAIN SOLVER WAREHOUSE STORY
SANDSTONE AND SLATE FLOORING DVD
LATEST COLUMNS AND VIDEO

Granite Countertops and Radon

Last week there was an article in the New York Times about radon coming from granite countertops. You will probably have to register to read it, but registration is free and well worth it.

Radon is a gas that is generated from the decay of radioactive elements found in certain rock, and inhaling it is said to be a cause of lung cancer. These radioactive elements can be found in igneous and metamorphic rocks. Granite is a rock that indeed can contain the elements that produce radon. I don't dispute the claim that radon is a cause of lung cancer.

So is this a real scare or not? I sometimes wonder if we've not become too overprotective. Certain building products indeed are toxic, and we found out after the fact. Asbestos being one of them. Lead in paint and plumbing fixtures is another example.

But granite? Sure some of it is producing radon in great amounts. But what about some of the commercial and institutional buildings in our nation that have all sorts of granite inside as wall coverings and flooring? Was there any testing done to see if the employees in these buildings suffered a higher incidence of lung cancer once you filtered out those who smoked and those who were exposed to second-hand smoke?

Add to this that our acceptable standard for radon exposure may be low. I didn't have time to look into this for you, but I could have sworn that years ago I heard that Scandinavian countries have a radon limit much higher than the USA, and they don't have people dropping like flies from lung cancer. Once again, that needs to be fact checked.

Be sure to read the article in the New York Times as I feel they covered the topic very thoroughly.

Composite Decking Announcement

Four and a half years ago, I wrote a column about Composite Decking. Composite decking can be described as a man-made material that often is a mixture of plastic and wood fiber. A few weeks ago in this newsletter I shared a news item about Trex. Trex is a composite decking material.

In my past column, I gave my opinion that the jury was still out on this new product. Why? The reason was simple to me. Much of the material contained wood fiber that was not treated for decay. We all know if you place regular wood outdoors, in short order fungi will start to eat away at the wood and destroy it. This is why telephone poles, dock and pier lumber, railroad ties and all sorts of other lumber has been treated with chemicals for years to prevent wood rot.

Two weeks ago I received a disturbing email from a company that was trying to do composite decking the right way. Louisiana Pacific came out with a composite decking material called WeatherBest years ago. I talked with them when I wrote my column. They were using a wood preservative to make WeatherBest.

But the latest news is that they are having issues with some of their product. You can discover more about this here.

The bottom line as far as I am concerned is that composite decking appears has problems that need to be resolved. This industry has to create a product that absolutely will not rot. My position is that water is getting into the composite decking and causing the small fibers of wood to rot. When the decking manufacturers can prove that a rot-proof product exists, then I am willing to listen to a new sales pitch. Until such time, I will use construction heart redwood for all of my decking needs.

Septic Tank Information

This morning, I got a fascinating email from a company that install elevators and lifts in homes. It seems a homeowner was steaming mad about the elevator workers rinsing off their drywall-finishing tools at his house. Small amounts of water-soluble drywall compound entered the septic tank. The owner was demanding the company pump the septic system as the drywall compound ruined the tank - or so he claims.

This caught my eye because I am the proud owner of a septic system after being on a city sewer for 55 years! I am also a master plumber and have installed septic systems, but never owned one. So I know a little bit about how they work and what you should an shouldn't do with septic systems.

Eleven years ago, I wrote a series of columns all about septic systems. I have listed them at the bottom of this news item. The workman for the elevator company did cause some solids to enter the septic system. While that is not a great thing, septic systems are designed to handle it. In fact, each time that homeowner who complained washes muddy clothes or empties filthy mop water into his drains, he is adding solids to the septic tank.

Every few years, you are supposed to have your septic tank pumped to get rid of these solids. If you maintain a septic system, it can last for many years. Pumping a tank is easy and affordable. Make sure you pump your tank and have the system inspected. Remember, your septic system can affect the water quality of any streams, lakes or rivers near you so it is important that you keep the system working well.

How Septic Tanks Work

Septic Tank Do's and Don'ts

Septic Tank Maintenance

 

Stain Solver Warehouse Story

Last week, I worked every day at the new Stain Solver warehouse. I had all sorts of things to do to get the business relocated and running as smoothly as possible. By the end of the week, I was really happy with the way things turned out. On Sunday, the traditional day of rest, it was anything but for me. I was really lucky to have my son Tristan working with me. He did an amazing job of painting the walls and cutting ceiling tiles.

If you are a new subscriber, you are wondering, "What in the world is Stain Solver?" More on that in a moment. But odds are you already may be one of my customers. If you are, then you have gotten results like Cindi Dugger did just a few days ago. Cindi wrote to Kathy and I:

"You saved one of my FAVORITE jackets. I was ironing it to wear on Sunday, and noticed a huge stain on the sleeve. It had been washed and hung to dry, but obviously this stain had NOT washed away. I figured, 'What the heck, what do I have to lose?' So I threw it in the washer and soaked it with your Stain Solver for a couple of hours. Then I washed it and hung to dry. It looks like new again!! This jacket even has rhinestones on it, and they are none worse for wear!! Now to tackle my bathroom tile floor--which is why I bought this in the first place."

Kathy and I have run this Stain Solver business for over 12 years. We have tens of thousands of satisfied customers like Cindi. Why? Because we make Stain Solver the way I built homes. We use the best materials and lots of them. We never compromise quality.

It fact, I discovered an interesting fact not too long ago from the chemist I buy from. He told me the raw materials used to make the active ingredient are food-grade quality registered with the FDA. You can't get much purer than that. That is just another reason why Stain Solver is such a green product.

Next week I am going to start collecting names for all who want to receive a free brand new newsletter just about Stain Solver. Each issue of this newsletter will contain tips and the hundreds of things around your home it will clean. This newsletter is going to be filled with stories just like the one from Cindi. Just wait until you discover the things Stain Solver will clean - things you would have never guessed. I will tell you next week how to sign up for that product-specific newsletter.

To celebrate this new newsletter, let's have a sale over the next few days. Go to the Stain Solver website and pick any size. But notice that you do get the best deal when you choose a 12 or 50 pounder. Just do the math! Look at what you are paying per pound as you go up in size. Share the bigger size with family or friends.

Then once you convince yourself that the larger size is better, you can then get 20 percent off of that price if you use this promo code:

news20

Remember, you need to place your order by Sunday, August 17, 2008.

Sandstone and Slate Flooring DVD

Sashe and Torsten Fischer are subscribers to this newsletter. They live in New South Wales near The Hawkesbury River, Sydney, Australia. Torsten has been a tile and stone setter for 30 years - that means he must be near my age - and Sashe, Torsten's wife, does what Kathy does here at AsktheBuilder.com. She is the business head and pulls the levers back at the office.

Sashe and Torsten produced a DVD about how to install stone flooring. Sashe went to great effort and expense to send me 5 copies to give away to you. I am watching the two-DVD set as I write this newsletter. That explains why this newsletter is a little disjointed.

So far what I have seen on the DVD is pretty interesting. I know the tremendous amount of work that Sashe and Torsten went through to make this DVD set, as I have produced five of my own DVDs over the past four years. But I digress.

You may want one of these DVDs if you are interested in stone flooring and how they are installed. You may be one of five people who will get it for free if you are one of the first five to email me with the correct answer to a question about my past. If you don't get a free copy, Sashe will gladly sell you one. I can tell you that it is well worth the price.

Okay, time for the question. I am only going to notify the first five who give me the correct answer. If you do not hear from me, that means you might have had the right answer, but didn't react quickly enough. No worries as there will be other fun contests soon! Put on your Columbo trench coat right now and start sleuthing.

Tell me the first job I ever had.

Latest Columns and Video

Is it time for a new shower head in your bathroom?

What happens if you drop the new shower head as you are installing it?

Does your toilet run after you flush it? This video was a collaborative effort with another popular YouTuber Paul Seveng. It should help you.

Index of past newsletters.

Concrete Overlay

Posted on by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: Some of the concrete walkways on our 100-acre island association development are disintegrating. The top surface is crumbling. Other concrete adjacent to it poured at the same time is in great shape. What is the problem, and can a thin concrete overlay be added to the walkways that are sound below, but the top surface is spalling? Roland M., Boothbay Harbor, ME

Listen To Podcast 3

CLICK this image and listen to the first call on the podcast. I talk to Vic about how he can use a concrete overlay to save THOUSANDS of $$$. Copyright 2018 Tim Carter

DEAR ROLAND: You and the other members of your association were very likely victims of poor workmanship. The spalling of the concrete walkways can almost always be traced to any number of issues with regards to mixing, placing, finishing and curing the concrete. Since you are on a small island, I will assume that all the concrete is made on site in small batches, not delivered in large ready-mixed trucks that come over on a ferry boat.

The good news is that you are going to be able to install a concrete overlay that will perform well for the next 50 years, if not longer. Even better, if you and some of the other residents on the island are willing to do a little bit of labor, this is a do-it-yourself task that I feel many homeowners can complete with professional results.

Disintegrating walkways

Disintegrating walkways at island association. PHOTO CREDIT: Roland Miller

Let's talk first about some of the primary reasons why the original concrete failed so it doesn't happen to you when you start your concrete overlay project. Since you have a mixture of concrete in great shape next to concrete that has spalled, my instincts tell me that the failure is due to a finishing error. The installer probably troweled water into the surface of the concrete to make the finishing go faster with less effort. He could have also troweled it too soon while the bleed water was on the surface of the concrete.

The spalling has happened because there simply was not enough cement paste at or near the surface of the concrete slabs. The cement in concrete is the glue that binds the sand and stone together. If you add too much water to concrete, you dilute the cement in the mixture. When this happens, concrete is very susceptible to spalling from freeze-thaw cycles. I have to believe you get cold weather with snow and rain in the winter months. These are ideal conditions for freeze-thaw failure.

To repair your damaged sidewalks you need a few materials and tools. I recommend that you practice the technique on a sidewalk section that is fairly remote. You can also practice in a garage using some precast concrete pads that you can buy at a home center.

Close-up of sidewalk spalling

Close-up of sidewalk spalling. PHOTO CREDIT: Roland Miller

The concrete overlay mixture is made from sand, very small stones, Portland cement and fresh water. Look closely at the surface of the existing sidewalks that are in good condition. See if the sand particles in the concrete match the sand on your beaches. I find it hard to believe that the contractor didn't use the abundant sand you have all around you. If the concrete was ready mixed and brought from the mainland, then visit the concrete plant and find out where they got their sand. You want to use the same sand if possible to get a close match on the final finish.

Stones used in concrete impart great strength. But the stones must be sized properly. The diameter of any stone should not be more than one-third the thickness of the overlay. This means that if you are pouring a thin concrete overlay that is one-half-inch thick, the largest stone in the mix should not be much larger than one-eighth inch in diameter! That is the size of many grains of coarse sand.

I would use one measure of Portland cement for each 2.5 measures of sand. If you plan to do a thicker concrete overlay, then use 3 measures of gravel, 2 measures of sand, and 2 measures of Portland cement.

The key to ensuring a permanent bond between the existing slab and the new mixture is to be certain the old slab has all loose material swept away, it is clean and it is slightly damp. You should also apply a coat of cement paint to the old slab immediately before you pour the overlay. Cement paint is made by mixing fresh water with Portland cement. Blend it to the consistency of regular paint and brush it on the damp slab.

Try to work on overcast days when the temperature is cooler. Sunny, hot and windy days are the worst conditions to pour concrete or work with concrete overlay materials. After you pour the material onto the slabs, use a straightedge to remove excess material. Let the mixture start to set until your thumb can only depress the mixture an eighth of an inch. When this happens, it is time to use a magnesium or wood float to create a sandy top finish on the overlay. You can also use a broom to create a broom finish.

You can successfully add a thin layer of concrete or stucco to concrete walks or drives that have failed surfaces. PHOTO CREDIT: Tim Carter

You can successfully add a thin layer of concrete or stucco to concrete walks or drives that have failed surfaces. PHOTO CREDIT: Tim Carter

Once the concrete has been finished, apply a spray-on curing compound. Do this immediately after the concrete is finished. This compound prevents the water from leaving the overlay mixture too rapidly. The water is needed to allow the new concrete mixture to achieve its full strength.

This column was featured in the August 24, 2008 Newsletter.

Column 739

August 7, 2008 AsktheBuilder News

Posted on by Tim Carter

What's in This Issue

TELLING THE TRUTH - NEW HAMPSHIRE ATTORNEY
POLYBUTYLENE PLUMBING PIPE SETTLEMENT
CRAZY STAIN SOLVER MOVE
NEW LEAD RULES
IDIOT HANDYMAN
SONOMA TILE AND FLAMED-GRANITE
LATEST COLUMN AND VIDEO

TELLING THE TRUTH - NEW HAMPSHIRE ATTORNEY

That's surely an attention-getting headline isn't it? If you are new to the newsletter in the last two weeks or so, you may not realize that I moved to New Hampshire on July 24, 2008.

What you may not know, even if you are one of my first subscribers, is that for nearly 25 years I was a licensed real estate broker in Ohio. So I should know a little bit more about real estate transactions than the average person. Not being licensed in New Hampshire, I hired a fantastic buyer agent, Fred Hoffmeister,  to represent me when I purchased my land two years ago and the house I just moved to.

Many states, including New Hampshire, have a law that requires the seller to fill out a Property Disclosure Form. This practice started to gain widespread acceptance about 25 years ago, and was a radical departure in the law. I can clearly remember when I got my salesman's license in 1975 that the Roman axiom of Caveat emptor - Let the Buyer Beware - was still the practice. When you are looking at a home to buy, you can read all of the data on this disclosure form that is filled out by the seller. You use it to help you make an offer. Data on this form, or facts that might be withheld, are highly critical to an offer you may make.

You need to know that I had one of the best home inspectors in New Hampshire look at the house I just bought. His name was John Rice from Choice Building Inspections LLC in Bristol, NH. John is ASHI certified, and his inspection pointed out that there might be a problem, but I decided to trust the information on the Disclosure Form and treat the problem as a one-time occurrence, not a chronic problem. I highly recommend John if you are doing an inspection.

The day we closed on the house, I discovered the seller did not tell the truth on the Property Disclosure Form. I am not going to go into the details here at this time, but if some upcoming negotiations with the seller do not go well, you will know all the details. How, you might ask? I'll leave that to your imagination for now.

But here is what I want to share with you. If you are selling your home, disclose all of its  defects, even if you have fixed them. I urge you to consider complete transparency in the transaction between you and the new owner. If the market is white hot as it was not too long ago, buyers will take your house even with blemishes. With total disclosure, you will always be able to say that you were not guilty of fraud.

Do you currently have some neighbors that do not like you? Imagine what they may say to the new owners of your home. Your neighbors know the problems with your house, because you talk to them and they know what work you have had done. What happens if the new owner of your home runs into others that know the history of your house? The point is you just never know when and where facts will bubble to the surface.

The other lesson to learn is to possibly not be so trusting as I was. The Property Disclosure forms have been around for years, and sellers know they can experience great pain and anguish if they are caught not telling the truth. The seller knew I would discover the issue once I was in the house. So I just couldn't imagine a person would be so brash and cavalier. If you hire an inspector who is as qualified as John and he sees a possible problem, do more testing, more questioning and more investigation.

Now to the New Hampshire attorney aspect. If you are a licensed real-estate attorney in New Hampshire or know of an excellent one, please contact me.

POLYBUTYLENE PLUMBING PIPE SETTLEMENT

The court system is about to close out a 1995 class-action lawsuit about PB polybutylene plumbing pipe. It is estimated it was used in nearly 6 million homes here in the USA. You better go here to see if you have it, and if you are eligible to file a claim before the money set aside disappears. PB piping is gray, looks like plastic and its labeling will have printed on the pipe PB2110.

CRAZY STAIN SOLVER MOVE

I want to thank you for helping with the Stain Solver move. You did it! You made it so I didn't have to move any product whatsoever. In fact, you ordered so much, I sold out! Kathy and Ellen were about to lynch me they were so busy last Thursday and Friday.

The rest of this week is a transition into the new warehouse space. We are stoked about the move, and are anxious to improve our level of service. I am going to be one tired and beat puppy by the end of the week. In fact, the move is the reason this newsletter was not sent on time.

If you are a new subscriber to the newsletter in the past few days, Stain Solver is a cottage business my wife Kathy and I started about 12 years ago, and is growing like a weed. We make a powerful cleaning powder that contains oxygen bleach that really cleans just about anything that is water washable.

Two days ago I got this note from Lisa Wissinger who owns and operates with her husband Gordon, Acadia Cottages immediately adjacent to Acadia National Park in Maine. She had just ordered another 50 pounds of Stain Solver.

Lisa said, "We have 11 cottages and try to use only "green" products.  We use the Stain Solver for all of our towels, which are white.  We soak them overnight, or at least 5 hours.  This does the trick on most stains ......  We love your product.  We have a section on our website and in the binder we provide guests that lists the products we use in running the business."

Thanks Lisa! You might be interested to know that Kathy and I visited Acadia National Park on our honeymoon. On the beach just five miles from Lisa's cottages, she (Kathy) almost started divorce proceedings. Why? Kathy's husband of just ten days threw into the ocean a rubber eye ring from a pair of binoculars. Just before throwing the part as far as he could to show how strong he was to his new wife, he said,"Kathy, look here. Some idiot lost a part to his binoculars." While the ring was sailing into the surf. I looked down at the binoculars hanging around my neck in disbelief. Yes, there was a missing rubber eye ring. Indeed there's no substitute for brains.

Anyway, I think I have gotten smarter over time. You can demonstrate how smart you are to your better half by showing her/him that you discovered a fantastic cleaner. Try some Stain Solver now and see if you don't agree with Lisa.

NEW LEAD RULES

Lead is a sinister poison found in many homes here in the USA that were built before 1978. I wrote all about the hazards of lead in some past columns at the website.

Lead Paint Problems and Lead Paint Danger

Next year the EPA will start to enforce some new rules about contractors who work in houses that contain lead. If you live in an older home that has lead paint, you really need to be aware of the dangers.

You can download a helpful pamphlet from the EPA.

IDIOT HANDYMAN

Jennifer Walch who lives in Maryland wrote to me asking,

"I was stupid and let a handyman put wallpaper on my bathroom walls.  He pried the baseboards away from the wall so he could wallpaper behind them.  I freaked out.  Now I have these gaps between the walls & the baseboards which he says he is going to caulk.  I'm afraid the caulk isn't going to hold up & I have no idea how I'm going to keep them clean.  I usually wipe down my baseboards with a wet rag."

What a shame as there was no need to touch the baseboard! I have installed wallpaper for years (I actually love to do it as I find it therapeutic.), and I have watched real pros do it on some of my larger jobs. Never has anyone wanted to put it behind the baseboard.

The lesson here for you is to always discuss the process of what a contractor plans to do before you hire her/him. Discuss what is important to you, and ask plenty of questions. You will never think of all of them, as you trust the person is going to do the job right. But you can see something as simple as wallpaper can cause a nightmare.

Yes, I think I know why the handyman wanted to do this. Maybe he wanted to prevent the paper from curling away from the baseboard as it can be prone to do. You can solve that by painting on a stroke of border adhesive on the wall just above the baseboard.

If you want to avoid a slew of wallpaper problems, you should read many, if not all, of the columns in my Wallpaper category. I'll bet you didn't know that there is a fantastic paint you can use as sizing for the walls. This paint makes paperhanging a breeze by extending the amount of time you can adjust the paper. It also allows you to easily remove paper without destroying the drywall underneath.

I have other columns that tell you step-by-step how to hang wallpaper. Maybe I should schedule a wallpaper clinic!

SONOMA TILE AND FLAMED-GRANITE

Are you a distributor for Sonoma Tile? Do you sell or rep flamed-granite tiles? I have a few questions about these products. Can you contact me immediately? I have an upcoming project where I want to feature these products. The video footage I plan to shoot is going to blow you away.

LATEST COLUMN AND VIDEO

Do you have a pesky door lock or latch that causes you to grit your teeth?

Do you have an aluminum gutter that is leaking at a joint? This video will help you:

Index of past newsletters.

Shower Soap Dish

Posted on by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: You helped me a week ago when I decided to replace my shower head. Believe it or not, the shower head slipped from my hand and broke the shower soap dish. This small weekend project has turned into a nightmare. How do I replace the ceramic soap dish? What else can go wrong? Alan L., Jackson, TN

DEAR ALAN: Oh my friend are you in a world of hurt now! You are not the first person with good intentions to cause a cascade of home-repair events. Replacing your ceramic soap dish is not going to be easy. It may be time to call in a professional tile setter. No matter who does the job, be sure to finish installing the new shower head before the soap dish is repaired.

Your wall soap dish may be easy to replace, and then again it could be extremely hard to remove. It all depends on how old the tile job is, the substrate behind the tile and the level of skill of the installer.

The first thing to do is to locate a new ceramic soap dish that matches the broken one. This may be difficult, especially if your tile has been up for over ten years. You are trying to get a soap dish that will cover over the field tile just as the broken one does. Many ceramic soap dishes have a flange that allows them to cover over the adjacent tile by about one-quarter inch.

shower soap holder

Falling shower heads will break shower soap dishes. It takes great skills and patience to repair the wall soap dish. PHOTO CREDIT: Donn Ross

When you get the new tile soap dish, look at the back of it. You may discover one or two holes in the fixture. These are not defects. The holes are there by design to help lock the soap dish into position.

The hardest part of your task will be to take the existing tile soap dish out without damaging any of the surrounding tile. The first thing you need to do to have the best chance of success is to remove the grout that is between the soap dish and the tile. You can attempt this with a small rotary grinder that resembles a dentist's drill, or you can try to very carefully chisel it out with the corner of a stiff putty knife. No matter how you do it, go slowly and tap the grout with care.

When the grout is removed, you can try to carefully break the remainder of the soap dish making sure you do no damage to the substrate behind the soap dish. If you have access to a small hammer drill, try drilling a series of holes down the middle of the soap dish from top to bottom and side to side. The holes may act as stress-relief points and the dish will fracture along the holes. Once you get one corner of the soap dish out, try to break the remainder away chunking the ceramic fixture towards the vacant corner. Break out small pieces at a time. Wear gloves and goggles as the ceramic chunks are very sharp.

Once the old soap dish is gone, you need to ensure the substrate is in good shape. If it is cement board or a true cement base set in metal lath, you should be in great shape. If the substrate is gypsum based, inspect it to make sure it is sound.

The holes you might see on the back of your soap dish need companion holes in the same spot on the substrate. The holes allow for thinset or grout to droop into the holes and sag just like mortar oozes from under a brick. This u-shaped drooping compound, once hard and dry, is what locks a ceramic soap dish into position. The mastic you spread onto a wall for the tile is generally not intended to hold a soap dish in place.

Mix grout or thinset so it is fairly thick. It needs to be plastic so that it will droop, but not so plastic that it flows. Cut two pieces of duct tape and just lightly stick them on the tile near where you are working. You will need these to hold the new soap dish in position as soon as you set it into place.

Make sure the substrate and the new soap dish are dust free and slightly damp. Apply a generous amount of the grout or thinset to the back of the soap dish making sure it is pushed into the holes. Push some into the substrate holes. Add just a little more to the back of the soap dish and push it into position. Immediately tape it along the top edge to ensure it will not move or fall away from the wall. Wait 48 hours before removing the tape so you can grout the soap dish to finish the job.

The back of most ceramic soap dishes has a square or rectangular raised area that is the same thickness as the tile that is adjacent to the soap dish. This raised area is what creates the gap where the soap dish is grouted to the tile.

It is important that the gap between the new soap dish flange and the tile is no more than one eighth inch. If it is more, there may be some old mastic or thinset on the substrate. This needs to be removed to achieve professional repair results.

Column 738