Hydronic Heating

Posted on by Tim Carter

So, are you intrigued by hydronic heating? It seems to be the rage. The industry has definitely seen fantastic growth and new products within the past years. For any number of reasons, there appears to be a renaissance in progress. This rebirth of the industry will enable you to purchase corrosion resistant water tubing, highly efficient boilers, decorative radiators (if you choose to use those), and sophisticated controls that deliver heat to as many zones as you wish to create in your new home.

Hydronic Cooling Too!

Don’t think that hydronic systems are limited to just heating. You can also cool your home if you have access to a lake or river nearby that has some very cold water in it. A loop of tubing is submerged in the lake or river. The water within the loop picks up the heat from your house and transfers it to the lake or river. As it does this, it gets chilled and this cold water is circulated through a coil inside your house. Think of hydronics or hydronic systems as simply water "trolleys" or transportation mechanisms. That is what they do best. They simply move heat from one point to another.

Complicated

I have told homeowners on more than one occasion that heating and cooling systems used in home construction are one of the most important and complicated aspects of building a home. Heating and cooling systems create and maintain an artificial environment inside your home. If you have weather extremes on the other side of the walls, it is vitally important that your system be designed and installed correctly. If it isn’t, you will be miserable and/or waste significant money in fuel costs.

Modern hydronic systems are some of the most complicated of all! This means that you and your installer must be on your toes. The arrangement and design of separate heating zones is critical. Pumps, controls, friction loss in tubing, boiler sizing, expansion tanks, fittings, etc. are all important. If you have one mistake the entire system will suffer.

I am not trying to scare you away from hydronic systems. On the contrary, I am trying to convince you to do your homework. You must educate yourself on the manner in which a system works so that you can talk intelligently with an installer.

Different Types

Are you remodeling a bathroom? Do you hate cold, tile floors? Why not put in some electric cables or an electric mat beneath the floor tile? It is possible! You don’t have to convert your entire house.

Are you thinking about adding a neat solarium to your house? Perhaps you have a screened in porch with a concrete floor that is 6 inches or so below your existing house floor? You can install a single zoned hydronic system just for this new room! There is no need for a boiler as a simple hot water heater may do the job. This is one of the interesting things about hydronics. Many systems are adaptable. They allow you to work them into an existing heating design. You can’t say that about a lot of other heating and cooling systems.

Great FREE Information

How would you like some wonderful free information about hydronic heating systems? You are going to get numerous booklets, pamphlets, literature from numerous hydronics manufacturers, and a copy of a very informative hydronics magazine called Radiant Living. Available online at www.radiantlivingmag.com. Does this sound too good to be true? Well, it isn't. All you have to do is contact the Radiant Panel Association. Tell them to send you the "Information Packet" that includes all of the above stated items. They are located in Colorado and can be reached during normal business hours at 800-660-7187 or visit their website at www.radiantpanelassocation.org. A Growing Industry

Radiant heating systems are growing in popularity. Currently, the industry in the United States is only 10 percent of what it is in Europe! Europeans long ago embraced radiant heating.

The biggest hurdle you will have to overcome is the dual system requirement. If you live in Michigan’s upper peninsula, then you have a great need for hydronic heat and little use for air conditioning. This is where hydronic heating shines. However, if you live in Lexington, Kentucky then you have a great need for winter heat but just as great a need for summertime air conditioning. Some hydronic systems can be installed that do this to a degree, however it is the exception, not the rule.

Keep in mind what you need and ask questions right from the beginning as to how you will have a comfortable climate year round. Hopefully you will be able to incorporate hydronics in your home. It is a truly wonderful form of heat. I know because a friend of mine heats this way!

How To Hang Wallpaper

Posted on by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: Can you to tell me how to hang wallpaper? I think wallpaper will really make a few of my rooms gorgeous. If you can teach me how to wallpaper, I am convinced you will save me money and allow me to discover a hidden talent. What are some of the most important steps to do when you wallpaper? Are there special tools one uses when installing wallpaper? Molly W., Meredith, NH

DEAR MOLLY: In the limited space of this column, I will be able to give you the view of how to hang wallpaper from 35,000 feet! Entire books have been written on the topic, so I will do my best to give you enough to get started.

I urge you to do further research to find any books, videos or DVDs that really explain the wallpapering process.

You are correct that wallpaper can transform a room. My wife and I are huge fans of wallpaper, and have it in many rooms of our home.

You can create a vibrant mood or theme using wallpaper that just isn't possible with paint or even multi-color paint schemes.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local wallpaper hangers in case you're getting cold feet.

Just A Few Tools

Let's get started with the tools. Fortunately, you don't need many tools to wallpaper.

Here's a list that will get you going on this job:

  • retractable razor knife with snap-off blades
  • 4.5 or 6-inch drywall taping knife
  • smoothing brush or plastic smoother
  • 4-foot level
  • grout sponge
  • measuring tape
  • paint roller & pan
  • paint brush

Click the Image Below to get all, or some, of the tools now:

Wallpaper Tools List

CLICK HERE to get all the tools I recommend in one place. It's easy and fast.

Believe me, a professional wallpaper hanger will have many other tools, but these will get you into the ball game.

Hanging Wallpaper

Cutting wallpaper to fit around older woodwork is challenging, but can be done with patience and the right tools. PHOTO CREDIT: Kathy Carter

The first thing to do is prep the walls. All holes need to be filled and any little bumps need to be scraped off. When wallpaper dries, it clearly shows any imperfections in the wall surface.

You must paint the walls with a special wallpaper primer. These paints size the walls ensuring the adhesive does not penetrate deeply into the wall. Another advantage using these special primers is the extra work time.

The primers leave a glossy sheen that allows the adhesive to stay in the liquid state for up to 15 minutes allowing you plenty of time to wiggle each sheet of wallpaper into position.

It is really important to hang the wallpaper plumb. If you fail to do this, most patterns on the wallpaper will scream that you made a mistake when you look at where the wallpaper hits the ceiling.

The pattern will either run uphill or downhill. The wallpaper needs to be replumbed each time you come out of an inside corner.

Always make a faint pencil line about one-eighth inch away from the actual edge of the wallpaper holding the wallpaper consistently away from the line.

If you place the edge of the wallpaper on the pencil line and the seam between the two pieces of paper pulls away the slightest amount, you will see the ugly gray line between the two pieces of wallpaper.

Many modern wallpapers come prepasted. I have found that using a premixed paste activator is a superb way to activate the adhesive. You apply these clear liquids to the back of the paper using the paint roller.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local wallpaper hangers in case you're getting cold feet.

Fold the paper immediately back on itself so the activator and glue are not exposed to the air. The moisture causes regular wallpapers to expand.

The wallpaper needs to expand on the worktable, not the wall. If you hang a piece of wallpaper before it expands, you will get all sorts of bubbles on the wall.

It usually takes only five minutes or so for the wallpaper to relax and expand once you apply the adhesive activator. There are non-woven wallpapers that do not expand. They can be applied to the wall immediately after activating the paste.

When placing the sheets of wallpaper on the wall, work the side edge first. Do not allow the wallpaper to fully contact the wall and then try to slide it to the plumb line or the adjacent piece of paper. If you do this, you will stretch the paper and create all sorts of problems. Get the edge in the right position, then allow the rest of the sheet to lay against the wall.

Use the special smoothing brush carefully to flatten the wallpaper against the wall. Brush carefully away from the edge making sure the seam is still tight and there are no air bubbles in the paper.

Trim the excess paper on the top, bottom and edges with the handy snap-blade razor knife. These tools are magical as they allow you to get into very tight spaces to make difficult cuts.

Trimming wallpaper might be the most challenging part of the job. Some wallpapers are very tender and tear easily once they are moist from the activated adhesive. You need to work carefully, yet quickly as some pieces of wallpaper that wrap around doors and windows in older homes can have as many as ten or fifteen technical cuts per strip of wallpaper!

Use the wide flexible putty knife to help guide the razor knife along long cuts at ceilings, baseboard and adjacent to windows and doors. Gently push the wallpaper tight into the corners with the putty knife and cut immediately next to the putty knife blade with the razor knife.

Be very careful cutting around electrical switches and outlets. If you allow the blade of the razor knife to contact the screws of the devices, you can get shocked or severely cut as you panic pulling the razor knife away in a shower of sparks and molten metal.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local wallpaper hangers in case you're getting cold feet.

Column 718

Steam Room

Posted on by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: I have wanted a steam room in my house for a long time. Are there certain things you must do to ensure a home steam room will work well? Can you tell me exactly how to build a steam room so that I do not have any water or water-vapor issues? Will I need a special steam-room door, or will an ordinary shower door suffice? Nate B., Lexington, KY

DEAR NATE: Your questions sure brought back a flood of memories from my childhood. When I was a kid, my friends and I would go swimming and play basketball at a traditional indoor health facility called the Friars Club. There was a steam room in this building that was a wonderful place to sit after swimming in the cool water of the pool. Although I have built a home steam room for more than one client, I have never indulged myself. My aching bones and muscles have complained about this oversight on more than one occasion!

As you get ready to build a steam room, don't let the benefits of a steam room distract you. Construction details must be followed to make sure this room doesn't become a haven for mold, mildew and wood rot. Steam and wood do not play well together. If possible, all wood framing for your new steam room should be treated lumber, including the subfloor.

Steam is simply water in the vapor form. This water vapor will readily return to the liquid state by condensing on cooler surfaces. Because the steam is so hot, the vapor will readily condense on surfaces that are warm to the touch. You have possibly seen this happen in your own home if you have exited a hot shower to see a fogged mirror. Don't think for a moment that the fog just picked the mirror, it was on the walls, ceiling and even the wood cabinets in your bathroom.

To construct a great steam room, you need to keep the water vapor within the steam room where it can condense and run down to the floor drain. Any steam that does exit the steam room must be vacuumed out of the room and vented through the roof of your home. If at all possible, try to make sure the steam room is not located where one or more of its walls will be an exterior wall of your home. If any of the steam water vapor escapes into the exterior wall, you will have serious water issues sooner than later.

I suggest you consider ceramic tile for the entire room including the floor. You can use a membrane shower-pan liner that connects to the floor drain to capture all of the liquid water. This is the first thing that needs to be installed after the walls are framed.

The second most-important element is a high-performance vapor barrier. You will need to get one that meets the ASTM E 1745 standard. This rigid standard will protect the wood in your home if you install one giant piece on the ceiling and walls without any seams. This vapor barrier must extend over the membrane shower liner that was lapped up onto the walls about 6 inches. The vapor barrier on the ceiling and walls will capture any and all of the water returning it to the floor drain.

Before you start any of this, I urge you to research in great detail the steam-generation machine. The manufacturer of these heaters have very specific installation instructions that ensure the units will generate the amount of steam needed for the room. The steam room must be sized correctly for the steam unit you purchase.

The ceiling height in the steam room should not exceed 8 feet. It is a good idea to slope the ceiling so that condensation drops do not fall on you as you sit and enjoy the soothing steam. A slope of 2 inches per foot should suffice. Cover all surfaces in the steam room with ceramic tile or other similar product that is virtually waterproof. The tile must be applied to cement board or other substrate that is approved for use in a steam room. Use thinset mortar to apply the tile to the cement board.

Do not underestimate the tenacity of steam to seek out and condense on anything. You see steam rooms in health clubs and gyms, but keep in mind that these commercial and institutional building are almost always built with masonry or treated, galvanized steel. This material can deal with liquid water better than the wood 2x4s used in most residential homes.

If you do not want to take the chance and make a costly mistake, you can purchase pre-fabricated steam rooms that simply connect to a floor drain. These steam showers take all of the guesswork out of the process when you follow the easy instructions that come with the units.

It is important to install a sealed door to the steam room. Once closed, the steam can begin to form within the steam room. If air from your house or bathroom is allowed to enter freely into the steam room, it will be hard for the steam to form as it tends to dissipate into the drier air of your home.

The location of the steam-generation unit is critical as is the length and sizing of the pipe from the unit to the steam room. Even the location of the steam head within the steam room is important. Read all of the installation instructions of the steam generation unit before you start the project. Make sure you can meet all of the conditions so that the project will be a success.

Column 717

Customer Reviews

Posted on by Tim Carter

Below are customer reviews received regarding the AsktheBuilder Shop and the Ask the Builder products.

"I just wanted to thank you for a excellent eBook on Crown Molding.  I just recently made this purchase from your website.  What a wonderful on line tool and very easy to follow the directions.  I want you to know that I am a rookie at this type of wood working, but your eBook made the job much easier and far less frustrating to complete the job that I was working on.  Best part about all of this is that I am completely blind or visually impaired as some might say, but had fun working on this task. While I am very capable of working with selected power tools, the guide made the job that seems to be a serious challenge for many, very possible for me.  Thank you for the help..."

- Kevin O'C., Indianapolis, IN

"Tim,

I received my bucket of Stain Solver and have to tell you that the stuff is scary - in a good way! I couldn't believe what it did for the no-longer-white grout on my office floor ... and I swear it continued to work even after I rinsed it off. It not only cleaned the grout, but took a layer of dirt off the tile that I didn't realize was there. Now I have to do the whole room since there is a big, super-clean square in the middle!!

I also put it to work on some very old pet stains on the beige carpet in the master bedroom ... some of them will require more treatment, and you can see that the carpet is slightly lighter where I treated, but it took out spots that we have been unsuccessful at removing with Resolve, Woolite, and a number of other "stain removers". Now I'm looking forward to trying it on clothing stains............

Thanks ... I will tell everybody I know about this great stuff!"

- Lori B., Gonzales, TX

"No question, just wanted to say I stumbled across your website and am verrrry pleased to have found it.  Took me 5 minutes to realize how superb and complete your answers are to questions posted.  Thanks,"
 - Jeff, Lynnwood, WA

"Thanks for the discount for your product. Your lightning quick response to my question and the fact that you would make a recommendation to me even though it did not involve your "stuff" spoke volumes as to your ethics. Even though my floor is already clean, I wanted to try the [Stain Solver] product on some other problem projects, in large part because of your actions in this instance. So, I placed an order tonight. I'm sure I'll be one of your loyal customers like the ones who have given testimonials on your website.

Thanks again."

- Kay, Spring, TX

"Once again thank you for taking the time to address my concerns. I followed your [Stain Solver] instruction on a small portion of the floor and left the solution sit for about an hour now - I can actually SEE it working. I'm running to the store in a few minutes and expect when I get back that the grout will be totally clean - the way it's worked so far I don't have much doubt that will happen. "Oh ye of little faith"!!

What a JOY it is dealing with a "vendor" who cares about his customers. I've had nothing but nightmares recently with Sears - therefore your response is even MORE meaningful!"

- Barbara, Miami, FL

"I am a new subscriber to your newsletter after finding your website in a search for a problem that I had. I can't remember what the problem was now, but in viewing your website I saw the information about Stain Solver and decided to order some for use on a deck.

A few days after it arrived, my husband dropped a plastic half-gallon container of cranberry grape juice on the ceramic tile in the doorway to the kitchen. The lid broke and the juice -- about half the jug -- shot across our light beige Berber carpet. We soaked up as much of the juice as possible with old bath towels. I then saw the Stain Solver box sitting on the counter, so I decided to mix up some and try it. I poured the solution liberally on the carpet, worked it in with the back of a large spoon (so as not to damage the carpet fibers), then vacuumed it up with our shop vac. I did this several times and was amazed that the carpet appeared clean!

In the morning there was a pink cast to it, however, so I repeated the process and this time also tried a hint that I found on the internet. I put paper towels on the cleaned wet spots, then a bath towel, then plastic wrap, and then heavy books. I left it that way overnight, then removed it. The stain was gone. The last procedure helped to wick the remaining stain up out of the carpet and into the paper towels.

I never expected anything to take that huge deep purple-red stain out. Your product has paid for itself a hundred times over in saving me from having to recarpet my condo."

- Karen V., Woodbury, CT

"PS: Fortunately the juice was sugar-free so I didn't have to worry about whether there would be any sticky residue, although Stain Solver might have taken that out, too."

"Well, I've got the [Shower Pan Liner] EBook & am anxiously reading it. I can already see in the details about leaving a gap in the studs for the membrane fold is the type of info that is invaluable ......... I already like what I see after just reading the first couple of pages. In fact, I liked it so much, I called my wife over to the computer & had her read it with me. ....... Well, I've got more reading to do so I'll get to it!"

- Greg Kolber, San Jose, CA

"I purchased six pounds of your Stain Solver almost a month ago. I cannot believe how great this stuff works. (I will eventually send you some pictures once my daughter shows me how!)

I did my mom's deck first, it has been much neglected and had a lot of mildew/algae built up on it. She is 77 and I was worried she may slip and fall on it because it was quite slimy when wet. I showed up with my rag mop, bucket, long handled scrub brush and the piece of resistance (imagine a French accent) - Stain Solver. Both my mom and my sister gave me a look like why are you wasting your time, why didn't you bring the pressure washer? I told them to just go about their business because I did not need any help and that they would both be surprised to see the results. They did not act to enthused until they, like me, saw the first few boards. After I had let [the Stain Solver] sit for 10 minutes, it was like brand new wood.

I could smell the mildew/algae as I scrubbed with my brush, it just like melted off the wood. I told my sister to come up and see the results in just the little area I had scrubbed. She was amazed. She stayed right up on the deck and was like - "What can I do to help?" I couldn't keep her away from my bucket of Stain Solver. She was like "Do you think this would work on the grease stains on the garage floor? Could I use it on this or that…..?"

Both my mom and sister were so happy that it didn't hurt her plants around the deck. I'm bummed because I used almost all of it on their deck and now I won't have enough to do mine. I also wanted to tell you what else I used it on, my bird bath. It was very nasty and slimy. I sprinkled a little in and filled it with water and let it sit for maybe 20 to 30 minutes. I scrubbed a little with a brush and rinsed it very well. It looks brand new!

Well the main reason I am writing is I need to order ... the 12 pounds and use my coupon. ... Thank you."

- Pam P., Traverse City, MI

 

"I was very pleased to not only receive the EBook on cutting Crown Moulding but to also get your explanation of what happened when I ordered it twice and a refund for the second order... There are still good honest people out there. Impressive. I have had a chance to quickly read through Tim's book and as a long time DIYer was impressed. I have never had the chance to work with crown as yet but our latest renovation project has lots, so I am eager to get at it now. Thanks again for the honest... and prompt... service."

- Glen Adam, Alberta, Canada

"WOW, that's all I can say! I purchased your product last week to clean the grout on my 800 sq. ft. of tile, and it looks as clean as the day we moved in eight years ago. I must admit, I was a little skeptical when I ordered the Stain Solver, but after having used it, I know I will always have some on hand and look forward to cleaning my wood deck this spring. This is by far one of the best products I have purchased in many, many years. Thanks Tim!"

- Ed, Macomb, Michigan

"Thank you for sending me the Room Addition Checklist. I read through the document, and it's quite thorough.

I know that this will be a useful and valuable document for me."

- Fredia J.

"I bought Stain Solver for the grout on my bathroom floors. Wow! I have tried numerous products to clean the everyday dirt, but nothing brought my grout back to its original white color. Stain Solver did the job, and I was amazed. Thanks!

Place your right hand on your left shoulder, and your left hand on your right shoulder...squeeze. There, you've just had a hug from utvandymom! Have a great day!"

- Margaret from Tennessee

"Thank you, Tim.

I used your (Walk Thru) checklist for the condo I plan to buy and really surprised all involved. They had only allocated 30 minutes for my walk through since it's just a condo, but I kept them there longer and feel much better. There were only a few things that need attention but I would have never noticed them if it weren't for your packet. So, thank you.

All the best,"

- Holley S., Nashville, TN

"This is what I call CUSTOMER SERVICE !!!!!!!! In today's business the customer is not often treated with respect, so I was surprised by your quick response. Thank you."

- Bill L., Stoney Creek, Ontario

"Hi Tim,

Your product is, by far, the best grout cleaner I have ever used, and I thank you for delivering "the goods" , in more ways than one."

- Al Lawrence, La Jolla, CA

"Hey Tim,

I wanted to thank you for the excellent book you wrote about crown molding. It was my first time trying to put crown molding in my house today. It looked easy until I actually tried it, then I got pretty frustrated. I came across your website after trying to get some help on the internet, and then I saw your book. Your book was the best money I could have spent. Within minutes after reading the section on inside corners, I was back at it again making the right cuts the first time! So easy a caveman can do it! The resale value of my house is definitely going to increase now. Thanks again for writing the book - it was a lifesaver!"

- Nick Agle, Kennesaw, GA

"Hi, Tim,

Your ebook "Building Simple Stairs" was an excellent guide in building a proper staircase. It was written in a straightforward, easy-to-understand style, the pictures were very useful, and your advice was invaluable. The guide contained tips that saved time, aggravation, and money. There were many suggestions that I don't have in other help books that cover the same topic. I particularly appreciate your advice on building stairs with mortises, adding the 1.5" edge, and using the X-acto knife to mark the mortises. Very clever.

Thanks to your guidebook, we were able to build a set of stairs – with a landing and U-turn nonetheless – and turn an unused attic at an outbuilding at my cottage into a usable loft. We now have an extra place for guests to sleep in two weeks for (Canadian) Thanksgiving weekend!"

- Rob Hyams, Ottawa, Ontario, Canada

"Hi Tim,

Just wanted to let you know that with your advice to use stain solver and a just a little bit of elbow grease we were able to clean & recolor/seal approximately 300 square foot of grout for a fraction of the cost. We were quoted $650.00 from a professional grout cleaning company. The cost of your Stain Solver, a long handled grout brush (easy on the back for the cleaning part) and the stain/sealer combination came to a grand total of $65.00. We now have a floor that looks brand new for 1/10th the cost!"

- Wanda Sidley, Cleveland, OH

"I received my order Thursday afternoon. My kitchen tile floor is disgusting. We have light/medium brown grout in between, but this had gotten super dark brown and I couldn't stand it anymore.

Some areas that didn't have heavy traffic, still had the original color that it is suppose to be. The heavily traffic areas were awful. I was going to hire someone to come out and steam clean it, although I didn't know if that would work. I just refused to scrub that floor. I would have an awful backache. I told my husband, I'm done cleaning this floor. No more.

I used the product, took extra powder and water just to get the first grout layer clean. I flooded my kitchen with the solution. Let it sit as long as I could, 1 hour, and then proceeded to mop up the mess I made. We had company coming in Saturday. The floor looks 98.9 percent better. I plan on re-doing the whole floor one more time. Like I said, it had gotten real bad. Now every time I mop my floors, I will use this Stain Solver solution to clean with.

Thank you again. I will let you know how the next application makes my tile floor look."

- June Hunter, Jacksonville, FL

Cobb Salad History Video

Posted on by Tim Carter

We have been walking about ten minutes in the hills of California. The path followed can be seen in the distance. The plateau is called the Cobb Estate. This is owned by the guy who invented the Cobb Salad!

The Marx Brothers ended up owning the estate after the Cobb people went into business with Del-Monte. The panoramic view of the valley explains why they built here.

So you have heard it here first from Tim, Cobb Salad invented right here in this valley. (Background laughter.)

Roof Shingles

Posted on by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: I need new roof shingles, but am paralyzed by fear of making the right choice of material and color for my home. Installing roof shingles doesn't seem that difficult, so I am considering doing the work myself. How do I select high-quality roof shingles? Should I install the new roof over the top of my existing asphalt roof shingles? What other tips can you share about residential roof shingles? Vickie E., St. James, MN

DEAR VICKIE: Many books have been written about roof shingles, so it is unthinkable that I can fully discuss all you have asked. But I am sure I can point you in the right direction so you have years of leak-free performance from the new high-quality roof shingles you will be purchasing.

Let's first get realistic about what is involved when installing roof shingles. It is dirty, back-breaking work. If the air temperature is above 70 F, then you will be hot up on the roof. As the air temperature approaches 90 F and above, it can become dangerously hot on the roof. Dehydration can make you fatigued, dizzy and more prone to cutting corners. On top of all of this, is the inherent danger of simply working up on a roof. Whether you intend to or not, you will obey the Law of Gravity, and it can be both painful and/or deadly.

These asphalt roof shingles are made to look like slate. PHOTO CREDIT: Tim Carter

These asphalt roof shingles are made to look like slate. PHOTO CREDIT: Tim Carter

Can you do the work? The answer is maybe. I do not know your skills, and what tools you have. Did I face the same challenges when I did my first roofing job? You bet I did. For this reason, I say you should consider trying if your roof has a shallow pitch such that you can walk over it without fear of sliding off. The best thing you could do is to volunteer to reroof a neighbor's small shed to see if you have what it takes.

There are many different styles, textures and colors in asphalt shingles. There are almost as many different levels of quality. The price per square ( a square is enough material to cover 100 square feet) is an excellent barometer of quality. As the price goes up, so does the quality and the warranty. If you need help visualizing a color and texture, consider buying just one bundle of the roof shingles and lay them on the roof as if they were nailed. Then get down on the ground and look at them to see if you like the color and texture.

I urge you to purchase your roof shingles from a roofing wholesaler that sells roofing supplies to roofers. Visit these well-hidden businesses and talk with the manager. You can discover these oases of information by doing an Internet search or looking in the standby Yellow Pages under "Roofing Supplies". The manager or owner will give you a quick education on the levels of quality across the different shingles. It is best to visit these businesses in mid-morning or mid-afternoon when the roofers are at their job sites.

You can sometimes install a new asphalt roof on top of an existing one. There are building-code considerations, so always check with your local building department. Personally, I have discovered over the years that you get a better job if you strip off the existing roofing materials. This is miserable work, even with the best tools.

Read all of the written instructions you can get from the roof-shingle manufacturer. Instructions are often printed on the packs of shingles, but do additional research to locate photos or videos of roofing tips.

Keep in mind that a majority of roof leaks happen where the roof touches up against something that is not a roof. Examples are skylights, plumbing-vent pipes, exhaust fans, chimneys, walls that extend higher than roofs, etc. You need to expertly install flashings at these locations. Flashings are transitional roofing materials that connect roofs to things that are not a roof.

When you strip off the old roofing material, check the wood sheathing for damage. Be sure the wood is securely nailed to the rafters and there is no wood rot. Install heavy felt paper or a modern water membrane in place of traditional felt paper. Consider using the special membranes that stop water leaks caused by ice dams or wind-driven rain.

You can buy roof shingles that mimic slate or ones that look like wood cedar shakes. From a distance, they do a very good job of fooling the untrained eye. I have used the slate-look asphalt shingles on my Victorian Shed, and they really make it look fantastic.

If you live in a humid climate, be sure you consider buying roof shingles that contain copper in the colored ceramic granules. This copper is a natural biocide that kills the common roof algae that is responsible for the ugly black streaks you see on many residential roof shingles.

Top-quality roofers will install edge flashings as well as a base or sill flashings. These are very important pieces of metal that help keep water away from your wood roof sheathing. Attention to detail is very important when working with flashings. Discover how these work and you will have a roof that keeps you dry in all types of weather.

Column 715

Wood Sheds

Posted on by Tim Carter
wood shed

Wood Sheds | This Victorian outdoor storage shed was built over a period of weeks. It matches the primary home on the lot exactly in design and color and adds tremendous overall value to the property. ©2017 Tim Carter

"Perhaps the most important decision you must make when it comes to your wood shed is not the style, color or amenities - it is the size."

Wood Sheds Checklist

  • Stop and plan - most sheds are too small
  • Wood sheds can add value if they match house style
  • Be sure floor joists and flooring are treated lumber
  • Create a good overhang to prevent siding rot
  • CLICK HERE to Get Tim's FREE & FUNNY Newsletter

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Storage Shed Secrets Revealed

How to Build a Simple DIY Shed

Shed Repair Tips

What is the Easiest DIY Shed to Build?

Wood sheds are perhaps the easiest and most economical outdoor shed you can build. Wood storage sheds are also popular because you can use different styles of wood siding and textures to create a wide variety of looks.

It is not hard to make a shed from wood look Colonial, Rustic, Contemporary, Victorian, etc.

Where Can I Get Two-Story Wood Shed Plans?

You can get them from me. I built a dazzling two-story wood shed in 2013. An architect friend of mine created detailed plans of my shed just for you.

wood sheds

This is my two-story wood shed that has a handy 6-foot-wide overhead door. You can pull in a garden tractor with ease. Wind can cause swinging doors to slam shut. An overhead door seals better against the weather. Copyright 2017 Tim Carter

Carter Shed Plans Building Section

This is a page showing a cross section of my own two-story shed. There are 17 pages to the set of plans!! CLICK THE IMAGE NOW TO BUY THE SHED PLANS. INSTANT DOWNLOAD

Free & Fast Bids

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local contractors who build sheds.

Are Pre-Built Sheds at Home Centers Any Good?

Most of the pre-built sheds I've seen at home centers are not too great.

You'll often see in the parking lot at a home center a line of ready-built wood storage sheds. Most of these are kits that are delivered to your home on a trailer.

It's important to realize you can assemble them or have a contractor do it for you. In my experience, these ready-built sheds are at the low end of the quality scale. If you are looking to build a shed in your yard that you want to last, you may want to avoid these products.

Shed Pictures Can be Glamorous

Wood prefab storage sheds are sometimes like the kits. They look good in pictures, but before you buy one, make sure it is practical.

A point often overlooked is you may see the sizes on a piece of paper or a plan and think it will work for your needs. You may even walk into a model and think it is spacious, but once you begin to store your things you realize you paid for a shed that is grossly undersized.

Easy Shed Space Planning Video

Why is Water the Enemy of my Shed?

Water will rapidly rot the framing lumber, floor joists, and floor of most wood sheds.

The first thing to remember is to pay attention to the different types of wood you might be using. Make the right choices and you can have a shed that can easily last hundreds of years if it is cared for.

Many wood sheds are designed to lay on the ground. Some are even advertised as ground contact where the shed is meant to be in direct contact with the soil. If the right lumber is not used, wood rot can happen in a short amount of time.

Can I Use Treated Lumber Floor Joists and Plywood?

A wood shed can have a wood-floor system made with treated lumber joists and plywood that will last for decades. My own shed is built this way.

Another key point is you would have thought I was building an elevated deck in a corner of my lot if you would have seen my shed under construction. I used treated-wood posts that were approved for burial in the soil as the legs that support my wood shed.

wood sheds

This treated lumber wood-floor system will last for years. Treated-wood posts, rated for burial, were used as the legs. PHOTO CREDIT: Tim Carter

Treated-lumber joists were then attached to the posts just as you would to create a deck. These joists were covered with treated plywood so that if my shed floor got wet from equipment, there would be no rot.

Can Wood Rot Happen From Beneath My Shed?

Yes, wood rot can happen if you use untreated lumber to create your floor system. Water vapor from the soil will fuel the growth of fungi that will eat your shed floor.

This treated wood floor will not rot from the underside as water vapor from the soil saturates the shed floor. Regular plywood used for shed floors is a mistake. Make sure your wood shed has a treated-plywood floor.

All of the lumber used to build the rest of my wood shed was not treated wood. Well, I did use treated-lumber bottom plates for the walls just in case any water came into the shed from equipment I was storing.

What is Great Shed Wall Construction?

wood sheds

This is my large storage shed under construction. It has a treated wood floor system. It's just one possible option The wall sheathing is oriented strand board. The walls are over 9-feet 6 inches tall! ©2017 Tim Carter

The wall sheathing in wood sheds can be foam, oriented-strand board (OSB), plywood or a combination of these materials. On top of this, you nail your finished wood.

This can be textured plywoods like the traditional T1-11, lap wood siding, or engineered-wood sheet products that simulate stucco or some other texture. You will be amazed at the variety of wood products you can choose from to finish the exterior of your wood shed.

REMINDER: STOP and Plan for the Right Size

Perhaps the most important decision you must make when it comes to your wood shed is not the style, color or amenities - it is the size. The most common complaint I hear from people after they spend all of the time, money and effort is they wish they had built a bigger shed.

Please go up and watch the planning video above. It only takes a few minutes to figure out the size your shed needs to be.

It is easy to get the size right the first time. All you have to do is drag all of the things you want to put in the shed out onto your lawn where the shed will be.

Arrange the things in such a way that you can get to each item without having to move anything else. Try to organize the things in a square or rectangle.

Measure this outer boundary around all of the possessions and you have the outer walls of your new shed! My guess is you will discover that you need one about 10 feet wide by 14 or 16 feet long.

Read my Outdoor Shed Tips column for a question from Eddie on planning a shed.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local contractors who build sheds.

Security Cameras Video

Posted on by Tim Carter

A new toy - but a very useful one. It is a home security camera kit and it rules the world! Home security cameras can give you peace of mind, and a easy to set up. Below are some of the really neat features of a security camera kit.

This particular home security kit has four indoor / outdoor, full-color, security cameras. The remote security cameras connect to a DVR (digital video recorder) with provided cables up to 60 feet long. Connect the DVR to a small monitor, a computer monitor or a regular tv, and you can see what is happening immediately.

The cameras can be set to react to motion or programmed to take images every few seconds. These awesome security cameras even have night vision technology that allow them to see and record at night or in the dark.

These home security cameras are fantastic. Consider them for your home. They are easy to set up and can give you great peace of mind.