| Syndication Overview | The Offer | Sample Layout | Sample Videos | About Tim | About AsktheBuilder |
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| Syndication Overview | The Offer | Sample Layout | Sample Videos | About Tim | About AsktheBuilder |
About AsktheBuilder
| Syndication Overview | The Offer | Sample Layout | Sample Videos | About Tim | About AsktheBuilder |
AsktheBuilder.com is an extension of the nationally syndicated weekly newspaper column AsktheBuilder written by Tim Carter. AsktheBuilder currently appears in over 100 newspapers nationwide. The AsktheBuilder.com website was launched in December of 1995, twenty-six months after the first AsktheBuilder newspaper column was written. The website archives currently contain over 2,100 articles and hundreds of videos. Residential home building, remodeling and repair topics are the primary focus of all of the content found at the website.
Carter was a hands-on custom-home builder and remodeling contractor for twenty years before launching AsktheBuilder. The concept for AsktheBuilder fermented for many years while Carter built and remodeled homes. Frustrated by bidding against other builders and remodelers who took short cuts using inferior materials or poor building practices, Carter tried to educate homeowners one-on-one. When Carter was selected as one of the top 50 Remodelers in the USA in May, 1993, he recognized the opportunity to speak from a new platform. Now was the time to transform his book idea and speak to many at once. The first AsktheBuilder newspaper column was published in October, 1993 in The Cincinnati Enquirer. The idea for the column was that of Carter's wife, Kathy.
The content found within the AsktheBuilder.com website is derived from an assortment of knowledge bases. The primary source of information is the twenty years of hard-earned lessons Carter obtained from working with a tool belt around his waist. Whenever possible, Carter includes tips he has uncovered from past craftsmen, renowned trade associations, scientists, other builders and even homeowners who take the time to share tips they have learned through trial and error.
New articles and videos are produced each week and loaded soon after completion. AsktheBuilder.com strives to be a portal where do-it-yourselfers and those who wish to hire professionals can learn how to build things that will truly last a lifetime.
| Syndication Overview | The Offer | Sample Layout | Sample Videos | About Tim | About AsktheBuilder |
The Offer
Recent Facts:
- Approximately $65 BILLION was spent on network television ads in the USA in 2006
- $15 BILLION was spent at the same time on Internet advertising
- Average consumer / homeowner spent nearly equal amounts of time each day watching television or gathering information on the Internet!
Advertising experts predict that tens of billions of dollars are starting to shift from the television market into the Internet. The companies spending that money want to buy video ads. That is what they have been doing for decades. They have little taste for text ads or static banner ads. The ad buyers want video-commercial products that convert to sales.
Video ads, especially ones within a video, work. They are effective and they are in demand.
Is your newspaper going to be ready to accept these ad buys or is some other website going to take your ad dollars away from you? If your website has a rich library of video content, you will be able to leverage this opportunity. AsktheBuilder Videos can solve that problem for you immediately.
AsktheBuilder Video Offering:
- Videos are high-resolution, NOT the grainy, low-resolution videos you see on YouTube
- Videos are FREE for the first 30 days after the License Agreement is signed
- You pay a modest daily-license fee for each video
- Your ad-sales force sells multiple ads per page
- You can have exclusivity in your city, if you are the first in your city to sign a License Agreement
- You can license 25, 50, 100 or as many videos as you choose
- You can ADD videos to your library as ad sales grow
- You can cancel the license agreement with a 90-day notice
- The license fee is negotiated based upon your circulation and website traffic
To view a wide variety of AsktheBuilder Videos, click here.
Please watch the following low-resolution video currently hosted on YouTube.com:
Syndication Overview - The Offer - Sample Layout - Sample Videos - About Tim - About AsktheBuilder
Video Syndication for all Media
Cover-Story Headline in a future issue of
Forbes or BusinessWeek:
Forbes or BusinessWeek:
Newspapers, TV and Radio Stations Rake in Record Profits from Video Advertising
Will your online publishing platform be one of the progressive ones featured in the upcoming article? Will you be quoted as the decision maker who helped take your website to record profit levels? This is all possible and more, if you make the right choice in the upcoming months. But don't hesitate. Ad buyers are in the marketplace now with cash in hand, and let's hope you have the products they want to buy.
If you are a newspaper online editor, I don't have to tell you the woes of the newspaper industry. Even though I am a syndicated columnist, and insulated from the day-to-day operations, I know that our, yes our, industry is in contraction. Classified ad sales have all but vanished. Circulation numbers are static or dropping. Revenues are as flat as a polished-granite countertop.
Tens of billions of ad dollars are starting to flow to websites, websites just like yours, but only if you have the content to match what the ad buyers want.
It is now or never. I hate to be that blunt, but Internet Video is here to stay.
I can supply you with a nearly endless supply of home improvement videos - videos your local readers want and need!
If you want Ask the Builder videos in your website, click here now.
| Syndication Overview | The Offer | Sample Layout | Sample Videos | About Tim | About AsktheBuilder |
Lawn Mowers Video
What do you think of little Gus' impersonation of me? SHARE your thoughts in a comment below.
Does your old riding lawn mower not turn sharp enough? When cutting a tight circle, does the lawn mower left a big circle of uncut grass? Well, the new zero turn lawn mowers or the four wheel turn riding lawn mowers are for you.
The four wheel steer mower allows you to turn in a very small radius. When you turn right, the front wheels turn right, but the rear wheels turn left. This may feel weird driving the lawn mower, but it allows you to get around obstacles, such as trees, with very little clearance.
The zero turn riding lawn mower turns without leaving any grass uncut. This mower has two steering levers that control each rear wheel. One wheel can go forward, while the other goes in reverse. This allows the lawn mower to turn in a zero radius circle - spin it around in place.
Before buying one of these new riding lawn mowers, think through your needs. The zero turn mower can not pull a cart nor plow snow. They are single purpose machines - they cut grass.
Pressure Washer Basics Video
Pressure Washer Basics
The business end of the pressure washer is the spray wand. Special tips are attached to the wand to create different spray patterns. Before turning on the pressure washer, be sure to read the entire owner's manual. Following the directions will prevent damage to the spray washer, the surface being cleaned and even yourself or others.
This particular pressure spray washer has five different colored spray nozzles. The red one has a zero degree spray angle and has the most concentrated spray stream. Be careful when using this nozzle.
The yellow tip produces a 15 degree spray angle. This is ideal for heavy duty cleaning. The green tip is a 25 degree tip. It is best for general cleaning. The white tip produces an even wider spray pattern, about 40 degrees. Use it for light duty cleaning.
The black tip is the safest to use. With a 65 degree spray pattern, it is ideal for applying cleaning solutions before doing the pressure cleaning.
When using a pressure washer, be sure to wear protective clothing. Safety goggles, ear muffs and gloves are a must of protect your eyes, ears and hands. Be careful and follow the instructions.
Bathroom Exhaust Fans Video
Bathroom Exhaust Fans
The normal bathroom exhaust fan is extremely loud and not very powerful. But, there is a new bathroom fan that will get all the moisture out of the bathroom and is whisper quiet!
These new bathroom exhaust fans work like a central vacuum system. The motor is mounted up in the attic above or slight away from the bathroom. The fan motor connects to one or more small exhaust boxes in the bathroom. These inlet boxes can incorporate a bright light.
The humid air travels up through one of these inlet vents through insulated flexible piping. Two vents can be connected to the exhaust fan motor with the use of a "Y" fitting. Large screw clamps are used to connect the flexible exhaust hose to the motor.
The fan forces the humid air up a larger diameter hose to the exhaust vent on the roof. Watch Tim's video Roof Flashing for Bathroom Fans for valuable information on installing the roof vent.
These new fans have an electronic timer switch with preset times. The fan will continue to run after you leave the bathroom, but will turn themselves off after the selected time. This will help remove all or most of the humid air from the bathroom to lessen the growth of mold.
Since the motor is not right in the bathroom ceiling, they are whisper quiet.
Drywall Tools
DEAR TIM: I need some drywall tools for a large project I am tackling. One thing I learned long ago is that tools contribute much to the overall quality of a job, so I want to get good ones. What are the bare minimum tools I need to get by? What drywall tools would increase my productivity both in hanging the drywall and finishing it? Marc C., Frankston, TX
DEAR MARC: Your dilemma brings back fond memories of my first days in construction. I was so poor, I had to make my own drywall tools. Thirty-five years ago instead of using a drywall mud pan to hold joint compound, I used a traditional plaster's hawk. But instead of the nice aluminum plate with a comfortable wood handle, I had to use a square piece of particle board and a broom handle. It was pathetic, but it was all I had.
Professional drywall hangers and finishers may disagree with my following lists, but I am confident they will allow you to get the job done one way or another. You need to understand that there are many different types of drywall tools, some of which are very specialized. No matter what you decide to do, stick with your philosophy about buying quality. I agree 100 percent with you, and great drywall tools will help you each step of the way.
The short list of drywall tools, in my opinion, would be a simple utility razor knife, a 30-foot tape measure, a seven-inch long utility saw, a drywall hammer, a stainless-steel mud pan, a 6-inch joint knife, an 8-inch taping knife, a 10-inch taping knife, a pole sander and some assorted sponge sanding blocks with different grades of grit. A drywall lifter would also be nice, but a simple flat pry bar will work in it place.
The utility razor knife is the tool you use to score the drywall face paper to cut the drywall to size. You will find the small utility saw invaluable when it comes times to cut square and round holes for electrical boxes. The drywall lifter is a cool tool that is foot-operated. This tool is used to lift up the last piece of drywall that goes on a wall. The lifter allows you to snug one sheet of drywall up tightly against the other.
The small joint knife is the tool you will use to apply drywall joint compound (mud) to the seams and corners. It is also used to apply the finishing coats of mud over the tape in all corners. The taping knives are the tools of choice to remove excess drywall joint compound from the flat joints on walls and ceilings just after pressing the paper tape into the fresh mud. The taping knives will also be used to apply the second and third coats of finishing mud over all flat seams. Use the pole sander to sand all of the drywall places where you applied joint compound. The small sponge sanders are for any detail work in tight spots.
The deluxe drywall-tools list would include a t-square to help you cut your drywall faster and straighter. A mixer that connects to a power drill will save you time and back aches. It allows to rapidly whip drywall mud to the consistency of warm cake icing. This is necessary to get professional results.
If you have lots of drywall taping to do, it may well be worth the money to buy an aluminum drywall-tape banjo. These tools allow you to apply drywall tape in seconds rather than minutes. The hand-held banjo automatically applies the mud to the tape as the tape exits the tool.
Instead of using a drywall hammer and nails, I would recommend a screw gun that will drive screws to the perfect depth each time. An auto-feed screw gun would be even better. You will find many uses for this tool other than drywall hanging.
Another magical power tool you might consider would be a hand-held router that has a special narrow bit that looks like a drill bit. This tool allows you to cut electrical box holes out after the drywall is hung. The small bit follows the outside edge of the electrical boxes and gives ultra-professional results. This tool can be used to also cut drywall that covers door and windows.
Drywall stilts are a wonderful tool, but not for the faint of heart. They allow drywall finishers to do all of the high work without ever stepping on a ladder, but they can be dangerous for a rookie. Use stilts with extreme caution.
Remember to take a metal file to the corners of the joint knife and taping knives. These blades have very sharp corners that need to be slightly rounded. If you fail to do this, you will tear the drywall tape as you finish the drywall, especially in the corners.
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Gypsum Fiber Underlayment Sources
Sources of Gypsum Fiber Underlayment
At the time this column was going to press, I could only uncover one manufacturer of the gypsum fiber underlayment. My instinct tells me that within a short period of time, they will have competition of some sort.
The marketplace has yearned for years for an underlayment other than wood. Sure, you could buy cement board but there are some installation and other issues with this product.
The gypsum fiber underlayment product seems to be one of those amazing products that seem to have very many positive qualities and scant few negative ones. The biggest negative point I can raise is simply that the underlayment is not 100 percent waterproof. If you need a 100% waterproof underlayment, then use cement board.
But the truth of the matter is that if you have a water problem, many of the flooring products that are installed over the underlayment will probably be ruined. If they have to be replaced, so to will the underlayment. It is a moot point to a large degree.
The manufacturer of the gypsum fiber underlayment is United States Gypsum Company (USG)- go figure! They have considerable experience working with gypsum as they are possibly the world's largest manufacturer of gypsum drywall. They call their new underlayment FIBEROCK®.
I have been to USG's testing and research labs and am extremely impressed with the amount of work and thought that goes into their products. USG is a company that wants to produce quality and do it all of the time. They have a long history of reliability. Anyone who has worked with USG products will tell you that they are great and that the company constantly strives to improve them. You will love FIBEROCK®, trust me.
I urge you to visit their website for tons of product information:
You can find FIBEROCK® at any home center.
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Gypsum Underlayment Installation Tips
Installation Tips
Tools and Storage:
Use hand saws, razor knives, power saws and holes saws to cut and shape the gypsum fiber underlayment. It is a score and snap product just like drywall. If you desire to cut it with a saw you can, you will simply create extra dust.
Store the product flat and up off the ground. Lay down four or five 2x4 pieces if you want to stack them flat. If you stand them up on edge, it is wise to place them on short pieces of 2x4 as well. But be careful! It is dangerous to stack them upright. People (children) have been crushed when a stack falls over.
You need to bring the gypsum fiber panels indoors and let them acclimate to the jobsite conditions. Store them inside for at least 48 hours before you start to install the product.
Crawl Spaces:
If you install gypsum fiber panels over a crawl space, a vapor barrier must be in place over the soil in the crawl space area.
Floors Directly Over Furnaces:
Install 2 inches of fiberglass batts on the underside of subflooring that is directly over or near furnaces.
Existing Vinyl Floors:
Do NOT install gypsum fiber panels directly over heavily or thick cushioned sheet vinyl flooring. You must remove the sheet vinyl and its foam backing first.
Replace or fill in any missing solid vinyl tiles. You want the floor beneath the new underlayment to be solid and free of cracks and voids.
Wood Subfloors:
The wood subfloor needs to be secured to the joists. For best long term results, screw the wood subfloor to the joists before you install the underlayment. Sand any high spots where the subfloor seams are uneven. Fill in any depressions so that the subfloor is in the same plane. Vacuum all debris and be sure the subfloor has a moisture content of 15% or less. Use a moisture meter if you think the subflooring is damp.
Cutting Panels:
As said earlier, you can use a razor knife to score and snap panels. But if you have to cut off a corner or make a notch, you will need to saw at least one or two lines and then snap the final marked line.
It is always best to place cut edges against a wall. Always leave a minimum 1/4 inch space between panel and the wall. This is for expansion.
Lightly butt panel edges together. Do not force panels together. In a large room, offset the butt joints on panel edges. You are trying to avoid long seam lines. It can't be avoided every four feet as you proceed installing rows of the panels, but a long seam can be avoided as long as you start with different sized pieces as you come off one of the walls.
Fasteners:
Fasteners are very important. The heads of the fasteners must be flush with the top of the panels once driven. You can use ring shanked nails, staples or screws. Avoid rosin or cement coated fasteners as they can stain vinyl flooring.
Keep fasteners 1/2 inch away from the edge. Install nails every two inches along the outer edge. All nails within the field should be on 4 inch centers.
Final Touches:
Be sure seams of underlayment are smooth. You can sand FIBEROCK™ and even treat the seams as you would drywall. If you apply a compound to the FIBEROCK™ be sure it is approved by the finished flooring manufacturer.
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