Deck Flashing

Posted on April 13, 2006 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: I want to add a deck to the back of a house. With the increased use of HEAVY metals in wood to increase rot resistance, I would like to find a source for both the flashing that goes behind the house siding, over the rim joist and down its side, thus protecting rain from getting behind the house siding and the joist connectors from corrosion. What do you recommend to achieve this goal and where would you go to purchase such items? Thanks. David, Federal Way, WA

DEAR DAVID: The best thing to use is pure copper. You can buy rolls of sheet copper at wholesalers that sell roofing supplies. Real roofers use copper to make all sorts of flashings and window pans.

The copper will perform flawlessly as it is completely compatible with the chemical in the new treated lumber. The liquid chemicals used in the treated lumber contain large amounts of copper. Copper is also easy to work with, and it is easy to solder if you need to create inside or outside corners or lap joints.

Column EM0027

Front Porch Wood Flooring

Posted on March 29, 2006 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: I need to repair some rotten porch flooring boards. These are tongue and groove and interlock with one another. How in the world do I remove the boards that are in the middle of the floor without ruining the ones next to it? What can I do to treat the new lumber so it does not rot in the future? The existing floor is painted, and I love that look, so how do I make sure the new paint will not peel? Robert M., Baltimore, MD

DEAR ROBERT: Tongue and groove wood porch flooring is a classic look. You know this is true when a modern company copies the tongue and groove pattern and wood-grain texture, but makes the product using a mixture of plastic and wood fibers. The modern composite tongue and groove material looks like and installs like traditional porch flooring, but upon close inspection the trained eye can tell it is not real wood.

Before we discuss removing the rotten wood, let's talk about what caused the wood to fall apart. The cellulose component of wood is an excellent food source for any number of fungi that start to grow within the wood once water is introduced to the wood on a regular basis. The wood would be as good as new if you could have kept it dry or treated it with chemicals that are poisonous to the fungi.

Tongue and groove lumber is a very interesting building material. One edge of the piece of lumber has a u-shaped groove cut into it. While the shaping machine is cutting this edge, another blade is shaping the opposite edge so that it has a tongue profile. These tongue and groove edges are cut along the longest edges of a piece of lumber. When you tap a piece of lumber's tongue edge into the groove edge of another piece of lumber, the two pieces of lumber interlock as if they were one piece of lumber. This method of assembly keeps a wood floor very smooth, since each piece of flooring has to move up or down in unison with the piece of wood next to it.

Removing a damaged or rotten piece of tongue and groove flooring is not too hard, but you must take your time. The biggest mistake you can make is randomly prying up the flooring. If you do this, you will very likely crack off the top half of one of the groove edges.

The first step in the removal process is using a circular saw to make two cuts down the length of the rotten piece of lumber. These two saw-cut lines should be parallel with the tongue and groove edges, and be spaced approximately three-quarter inch away from these profiled edges. Set the saw blade depth one-sixteenth inch deeper than the thickness of the piece of lumber. Since the only place the lumber is nailed is through the tongue, this strip of wood you cut will immediately come out.

Once this center strip of wood is taken out, the groove portion of the rotten piece can be removed by tapping it sideways so it unlocks from the tongue next to it. The remaining piece of lumber requires a little bit of finesse or brute strength, whichever you choose to use.

Using a locking pliers, grab onto the remaining piece of lumber at one end and pull firmly. You will pull part of the tongue off the piece of lumber where it crosses over each floor joist below the porch flooring. After this piece of lumber is removed, the only remaining step is to remove the slivers of the tongue that are pinned in place by the nails used to fasten the original tongue and groove strip of lumber to the porch floor joists. Remove the nails carefully and the tongue slivers will pop out with ease.

Before you install the new porch flooring, soak it in a borate solution for several minutes and then let the wood dry. You make a borate solution by mixing powders that contain boron-based chemicals with water. This chemical is harmless to humans and mammals, but is poisonous to many wood-destroying fungi.

Once the wood is perfectly dry, then completely pre-paint it on all surfaces, edges and cut ends before installing it. Be sure to avoid putting excess paint in the groove and tongue edges of the lumber. Too much paint will cause a hardship as you try to slide the last piece of lumber into position. Allow the paint to dry at least one week so it cures well, and can stand the abuse of being handled during installation.

The easiest way to treat the lumber with a borate solution is to make a trough using heavy 6 mil thickness vapor-barrier plastic. Use some scrap lumber that is 1 foot longer than the lumber you are treating to make a frame to support the plastic. Set each end of the frame on a concrete block. Drape the plastic into the frame allowing it to flow onto the ground, and secure the plastic sheeting to the top of the frame using roofing nails and small strips of wood.

Add enough solution into the trough so that it is deep enough to cover as many pieces of lumber you want to treat at one time. Follow the directions on the borate-chemical package for the amount of time you need to soak the lumber. Once you remove the lumber from the solution, allow it to dry in an area where the lumber will not get wet from rainfall or any other water. Let the lumber sit for several days until it is completely dry. Failure to do this will cause the paint to peel.

Column 614

Medical Billing Services

Posted on March 27, 2006 by Tim Carter

Medical billing services are companies that take the pain of collecting money out of the doctor's office. A good service will maximize a doctor's receivables, while keeping their cash flow consistent. The key is choosing the right medical billing service.

A great service will submit insurance claims timely (preferably electronically), track the payments, follow up on unpaid claims and deal with all denials. They will not let any claim go unpaid.

Representatives of the service will attend insurance company seminars, advise the doctor of changes in their field and provide them with regular financial reports. They should not only handle the billing needs, but should act as consultants for the doctor, advising of fee structure, coding practices, and other ways to improve the office.

An obvious way a doctor can save money by outsourcing his billing is in the savings he will generate through payroll, equipment, software support, updates, postage, forms, etc.

Outsourcing medical billing produces more than cash savings. A good service can maximize what the doctor actually brings in by collecting more money than an in-house staff can. In most offices, the in-house staff does not have the time or the knowledge to handle the problem claims, and the doctor ends up not getting reimbursed anything for those services.

By outsourcing, a doctor is hiring a professional. Medical billing services have the expertise to submit claims accurately, collect on all claims, even those that have been denied by the insurance carrier. This helps the doctor's patients by avoiding billing the patient for a claim that should have been paid by the insurance carrier.

Column EM0028

Ceramic Tile Mural Problem

Posted on March 26, 2006 by Tim Carter

ALOHA TIM: I had a mural painted (and fired) on eight 8" ceramic tiles for a 16" x 36" backsplash in back of my stove. It is surrounded by 1/2" x 6" border tiles.

This ceramic tile mural is meticulously placed, glued up on drywall with Q-set Mastic 6500, an acrylic-based mastic. It is not yet grouted. Unfortunately, our tile installer was a friend here on vacation from the mainland who house-sat while we were on the mainland. We returned Monday. He installed the mural wrong, and I am not sure how it happened. I had laid it out for him before we left.

I'm trying to figure out what to do. Here are the options I have at this time:

1) The artist is willing to come here and paint three tiles to look like they go together and she uses a good paint. She says it won't last forever. I'm not sure she can create the balanced effect she originally had (whales, turtles, dolphins, coral) with a patch job.

2) Remove the tiles and whatever does break, she can do new tiles and have someone else install them.

I don't know if we will end up with having to do some sheetrock work or not. I have very few of the original backsplash 2-1/4" white tiles (original backsplash was two rows of these tiles) in case removal of the mural causes tile damage to the adjoining backsplash. The original backsplash continues on the back wall on both sides of the stove. I do have more border tiles. Do you have any suggestions? Mahalo, Gail Jackson, Lanai, HI

DEAR GAIL: You are in great luck since the tile was not yet been grouted. You can salvage each tile without breaking them, if you take your time in the removal process.

You are going to ruin the drywall in the process, but it is a small price to pay. Since the tiles are larger 8 x 8-inch ones, I assume the grout joint lines are large probably between 1/8 and 1/4 inch. The first thing to do is to take a razor knife and cut through the paper facing of the drywall around each individual tile.

Once you have done this, take a hand-drywall saw or a rotary-powered-drywall-cutting tool and cut through the drywall around each tile. You will need to cut carefully so that you do not cut into any wires or plumbing pipes behind the drywall. Have someone help you as you finish the final cuts around each piece, so that the tile and drywall does not fall into the wall cavity or onto the countertop.

Once all tiles are cut out of the wall with the drywall attached to each one, place them in a bucket or several buckets of water and allow them to soak overnight. This soaking period should soften the drywall so that it can be easily removed from the back of the tile.

Once you have scraped the softened drywall off the back of the tile, apply an adhesive remover to the tile to soften the mastic. Scrape as much mastic off as possible, but don't worry if some remains on the tile.

Repair the drywall and start again, but this time, stay in the house and assist with the installation to ensure each tile is put in the right spot.

Column EM0027

Pouring Concrete Sidewalks

Posted on March 21, 2006 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: This summer I want to install a concrete sidewalk. Is it possible to do this job completely by myself? What are the most important steps I need to follow? What are the biggest pitfalls to avoid? I am industrious, so I am convinced this job is not too hard to do. Mary Ann L., St. Helen, MI

DEAR MARY ANN: Do not underestimate the skill set, nor the amount of hard, physical labor this job will require. If the total area of the sidewalk is not over 150 square feet, and the concrete delivery truck can be parked adjacent to the forms, I feel you can do this job.

You need to realize that concrete is very heavy, and once water is added to the sand, gravel and Portland cement at the ready-mix concrete plant, a chemical reaction starts whereby the concrete begins to get hard. You have a limited amount of time to place and finish the concrete once the ready-mix truck arrives at your home. To make matters worse, the amount of time to work with the concrete decreases as the air temperature increases. So try to do this job when air temperatures are in the 50 - 59 F range.

Don't put too much concrete into a wheelbarrow. See how much you can comfortably handle. PHOTO CREDIT: Tim Carter

The soil upon which you will pour the concrete must be well-drained and compact. You can use a hand-tamping tool for this task. If the soil is a thick clay, add 2 inches of small, rounded gravel to the area where you will pour the concrete. This gravel will help improve drainage.

The sidewalk should be poured at least 4 inches thick. If you increase the thickness to 5 inches, it will dramatically increase the durability of the sidewalk. Installing reinforcing steel will also significantly strengthen the concrete. Use 1/2-inch-diameter steel bars placed 2 foot on center in both directions, just like the grid in a crossword puzzle. The steel bars need to be in the center of the wet concrete. Do not allow the steel to lay on the soil or gravel and be covered with the wet concrete. It is best to suspend the gridwork of steel on small pieces of flat rock or some other solid material that allows the concrete to flow under and over the steel as you place the concrete in the forms.

Be sure to assemble all of the tools you need and check that they are in great condition. You will need a wheelbarrow, a round-point shovel, a concrete rake or traditional, hard gardening rake, several straight 2x4s, a magnesium finishing trowel, a wood hand float, a push broom with medium bristles and a jointing tool.

It is vitally important that you order the right concrete mixture. The absolute minimum standard is 4,000 pounds per square inch (psi) strength. I would recommend you consider 4,500 psi concrete delivered at a 4.5-inch slump and be sure it is air-entrained. Slump is a measurement of the amount of water added to the concrete at the ready-mix plant. The higher the slump number, the easier it is to place the concrete as it flows more like water. A 4.5-inch slump will be like working with a slightly stiff cake batter.

Do not add water to the concrete once it arrives at your home. This added water weakens the concrete because the Portland cement particles get diluted in the mix. Do not sprinkle water on the concrete as you work with it. It is a good idea to slightly dampen the soil and the gravel just before you pour the concrete. This prevents suction from pulling the water out of the concrete mix and into the soil, making it hard to place and finish the concrete.

As you place the concrete in the forms, use the concrete rake and 2x4s to smooth out the concrete, so it is flush with the top of the forms. I would start the pour at the far end of the sidewalk, away from the truck. At some point, the truck driver may be able to use his long chute to drop the concrete right into the forms. This saves back-breaking work and lots of time. Be sure you do not fill a wheelbarrow full of concrete. It can weigh hundreds of pounds, and you might drop the load or hurt yourself.

Once the concrete is poured, you must work the top of the concrete with a wood float or the magnesium float. You swirl these tools on the partially stiff concrete; this motion drives the stone aggregates down into the slab and brings the sand and cement component to the top. Ideally, you would like to have the stones about 1/4 inch below the finished surface of the concrete. You can use the push broom to create a nice, finished texture. Pull the broom lightly across the smooth concrete to get the desired look.

Concrete shrinks as it cures and hardens. It shrinks 1/16th inch for every 10 linear feet. You must create control joints at even intervals so that you do not get random cracks across the new sidewalk. These control-joint lines are installed with a tool that cuts a crisp line in the wet concrete. Run the tool along a board that crosses the forms at a 90-degree angle to keep the line straight. The depth of the cut is critical. It must be a minimum of 1/4 the thickness of the slab. At the bare minimum, your cut line should be 1-1/4-inch deep. Space these lines no more than 4 feet apart.

As soon as you are satisfied with the finish, you must apply a curing compound to the fresh concrete. This product locks in the water that was used to mix the concrete. The concrete uses this water to complete the chemical reaction that continues for many months. This hydration reaction is what allows the concrete to reach its final design strength.

Column 613

Extreme Makeover Home Edition Sunrise Kentucky

Posted on March 15, 2006 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: Have you ever watched one of those shows where they tear down the house of a deserving family and build them a new house in an extremely short period of time? When I say short I mean four or five days.

It's great theater, and when we see the video of the beautiful and well-appointed new home, I am very impressed. But really, how to they do that?

Sure, they have a huge crew of knowledgeable and dedicated professionals, but my experience would tell me that these folks would be stepping on one another, interfering with one another, and aggravating one another until the whole thing would erupt into a construction catastrophe. Even if they work with modular stuff (I do not know if they do), how does this stuff get done?

Also, the finished product looks great on television. Have you ever heard whether it looks as good close up? Craig M.., Dayton, OH

DEAR CRAIG: The Extreme Makeover: Home Edition television show is doing this exact thing right now 50 miles south of Cincinnati, OH. The show's host Ty Pennington, a professional home builder, numerous subcontractors, building material manufacturers and suppliers and an army of 250 volunteers are doing a blitzkrieg building project by tearing down a house and rebuilding it in just one week.

This extreme home makeover is indeed television theater at its best. It whips people such as you into a frenzy of excitement, wonder and amazement because of the speed of the project. I can tell you the concept is not new by any means and I have done it myself on a smaller scale on two separate occasions.

Years ago, I was challenged by an oral surgeon to do an extreme office makeover. I was given just one week to completely remodel his interior offices. It was a daunting task, but I accomplished it with detailed planning, fantastic support from my suppliers and subcontractors and precisely timed inspections.

I was the lead builder for one of the first Habitat for Humanity houses built in Cincinnati, OH years ago. My interest in the project was fueled by what I could do with 30 eager volunteers each Saturday. It was absolutely amazing to see how much work could be accomplished in just eight hours.

Members of the Jehovah's Witnesses have done the same thing for years. It is not uncommon for them to build a church in a matter of days. They have hundreds of talented building construction members from other cities swoop down onto a location and work non-stop for days to complete a new church for a grateful congregation.

The methodology employed by the Extreme Makeover: Home Edition television show is no different. They plan far ahead, pre-order all materials and stage these materials in a warehouse. Countless pre-construction meetings are held that outline exactly what will happen when. The entire job is broken down into small parts where perhaps a crew of three people is assigned a highly specific task. Each crew knows what to do and how to avoid confusion and overlap with adjacent crews.

A certain amount of the work may also be done in advance. Walls can be prefabricated at a factory and simply set in place at the jobsite. With enough planning, the walls can even have all holes predrilled in them for electrical cables and plumbing pipes.

You would be amazed at what can happen in advance. Sinks can have faucets attached and water supply lines dangling form them before they are dropped into a countertop. This work can happen days in advance of the start of the project. Woodwork, doors and other trim can be pre-painted or pre-finished before it is installed. Some trim can already be precut before it is installed. This is possible as carpenters already know the needed measurements based upon the frame size of the doors and windows.

Then imagine what happens if you place 15 or 20 qualified electricians in a house at the same time, with each one assigned just two or three things to do in distinct locations. Doing this, you can see it is possible to have a house completely wired in just a few hours. The same is true for each and every task.

Think about the drywall for just a moment. Can you see how fast you could hang every sheet of drywall in a house if a separate crew was working in each room? In fact, two crews could be working in a room at the same time and not interfere with each other if it was planned properly.

The local newspaper, The Cincinnati Enquirer, published a special story the Sunday after the house was completed. In this behind-the-scenes look, they produced a comparison of the normal amount of time certain tasks take in new construction vs. the compressed time frame in the Extreme Makeover method of construction. Here are the comparisons as shown in the Enquirer:

	Normal Construction	Extreme Method
Total Time	120-130 days in good weather	106 hours non-stop
Framing	8 days - 6 workers	20 hours - 30 workers
Roofing	8 days - 4 workers	14 hours - 15 workers
Heating/AC	3 days - 2 workers	6 hours - 12 workers
Plumbing	7-8 days : 2-3 workers	20 hours - 20 workers
Electrical	3 days for rough wiring 1 day for finish wiring 1-2 workers	3 hours for rough 3 hours for finish 15 workers
Insulation	2 days - 2 workers	4 hours - 10 workers
Drywall	15 days - 4 workers	13 hours - 20 workers
Flooring	1 day for carpet 4 days for hardwood 2-3 workers	2 hours for carpet 10 hours for hardwood 6-8 workers

As for overall quality, I can't make a judgment, as I have never seen one of these projects up close and personal. But I can tell you from working in the television industry myself for the past eight years that a slightly out-of-focus camera lens and the resolution of traditional television sets are very forgiving. New high-definition television sets can show far greater detail, and you might find that cameramen will not zoom too closely if the quality is low, or they may adjust the focus ring on a lens to disguise a blemish.

The recent project in Sunrise, Kentucky could be fraught with all sorts of hidden problems. The framing of the house happened during two days of intense rainy weather. Although I was not there, I have to believe the lumber absorbed lots of water, and it is possible insulation was placed in damp wall cavities and then immediately covered with a plastic vapor retarder. If this happened, mold and mildew could be growing like wildfire hidden behind the drywall in this brand-new home. As they say in Hollywood, the show must go on.

The magic that happens during post-production in the editing suite is also something to behold. Mistakes, problems and defects may be there on the digital recording tapes or discs, but for some odd reason they just don't seem to make it onto the final cut of the show. For those who think these jobs are mistake-free, well, I have several bridges and an airport I would like to sell to them.

Column EM0026

AsktheBuilder mp3 Radio Show March 11 2006

Posted on March 12, 2006 by Tim Carter

Each title below is a direct link to a downloadable mp3 file. Just click the title if you want to listen. Right click if you want to download into your computer to save and play at a later date.

The Copyright to all radio segments is owned by Tim Carter. I would love to know what you think of these radio segments. Do you like them? Do they help you? Have they saved you money and/or time? Let me know by sending me an email: [email protected]

Canadian Geese and Canada Geese Migrating in New York State

Vapor Barrier in Remodeled Bathroom

Sag in Roof

Wood Roofing Like a Ship's Deck

Orienting Laminate Flooring

Crumbling New Grout

Repairing Cracked Rookwood Tile

Truss Uplift Problems

Low Water Pressure in Faucets

Posted on March 11, 2006 by Tim Carter

Low water pressure in faucets is caused by debris and sediment in either the aerator or the valve cartridge. Remove the aerator first and inspect it for sediment, goo, or hard-water deposits.

Revised February 2018 and mentioned in the February 13, 2018 Newsletter and April 29, 2010 Newsletter.

Low Water Pressure in Faucet TIPS

Remove aerator from tip of vanity or kitchen sink faucet
Check screen for sediment and pieces of sand
Soak in hot white vinegar to remove hard water deposits
Replace valve cartridge if problem persists
CLICK HERE to get FREE BIDS from local plumbers

DEAR TIM: Several weeks ago our whirlpool faucet water pressure and volume dropped to half while I was filling the whirlpool with water. The pressure and volume slowly returned to normal.

At the same time, our kitchen faucet pressure and volume dropped even more than 50 percent. It has not returned to normal and gets worse each day. All other faucets seem to work fine and the toilets fill quickly. What happened? What is wrong and is it expensive to correct? Patty J., Sterling, VA

Low Water Pressure Caused By Small Clogged Pathways

Years ago many standard kitchen, bath, and shower faucets had rubber and plastic washers that contacted a circular valve seat inside the faucet. As you opened a faucet the washer would pull away from the valve seat creating a very large pathway for water to flow through.

In many faucets the pathway was so big, a small, round BB could easily pass through the faucet and into the sink or a glass of water. This older design allowed vast amounts of water to flow through a faucet and this is not a great thing when we have a growing population and limited fresh-water supplies.

What Part Inside a Faucets is to Blame For Low Pressure?

But many of today's modern faucets have washerless cartridges inside the body of the faucet. The modern cartridge replaces the older washer and valve seat design which controls water flow. The pathway through which water passes in these cartridges is much smaller than old faucets. These small passageways can get clogged with small pieces of sand or sediment.

Many of today's faucets also have an aerator at the end of the faucet. These devices are often made up of several small parts including a flow restrictor and a screen with very small holes. These also can get clogged very fast with very tiny pieces of sand or sediment.

If you take the aerator apart, you will discover extremely small holes in round disks made of plastic or metal. The water flowing from the faucet must pass through these tiny orifices.

Sediment & Hard-Water Deposits The Culprits

I'm convinced the drop in water volume and pressure at the two faucets was caused by small pieces of sediment or some other debris that clogged a passageway within the valve cartridge and/or the tiny orifices within the aerator and or a flow restrictor. This is an extremely common problem for many homeowners.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local plumbers to solve your faucet problem.

The sediment can form within a faucet or its parts depending upon the hardness of your water. Sediment also forms as a scale on the inside of municipal water supply pipes and the water lines inside your home.

Pieces of this sediment can break off and be transported through the water lines as water moves towards a faucet. Small pieces of sand or rocks can enter a water system, especially those of people who use a private well. These can block the pathways within your faucets.

These low water pressure and flow problems are very common just after a water main break in a municipal water system. Sand, dirt and other debris can enter municipal piping systems when a water main fractures. Once the water main is repaired, this debris is transported through the water system and can end up in your home.

What Can Clog Water Lines or Aerators?

Small shavings of piping, soldering flux, sediment, etc. can also be carried through your own pipes when repairs are made to your plumbing system or new piping is added to your home. Problems can also happen by simply turning on or off a main or secondary water control valve within your home by a plumber who might be installing a new faucet or performing a repair.

It's important to realize when you install a new faucet, like this American Standard Saybrook one, that you remove the aerator before you turn on the water. Turning off shut-off valves and moving supply tubes around can loosen debris that will clog the new aerator.

Can a Water Main Break Clog Aerators?

If a city water main or water line inside your home is drained and then refilled with water, the incoming water can break off tremendous amounts of sediment and carry it through the water system. This happens when the surge of water rushes into the empty pipes creating a miniature tsunami of roiling water and sediment as the water fills the pipes.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local plumbers who can fix pressure problems in your home or condo.

Is it Expensive to Fix a Faucet Aerator?

It is not expensive to correct the problem. The first thing I would look at are the aerators in any faucet that is giving you problems. Carefully remove the aerator and pay attention to how the different parts are assembled.

Look at the parts, including the screening at the tip of the aerator, to ensure all parts are free of debris and all pathways are clear. Use tiny straight pins to open up any closed holes in these parts. You may have to soak the parts in warm, white vinegar overnight to removed caked, hard-water deposits that can build up within the aerator.

If, after reassembling the aerator, the water pressure and volume are still low, this means the problem is probably in the valve cartridge. The owner's manual that came with the faucet will show you how to remove and replace this common and inexpensive part. If you do not have the manual, try visiting the manufacturer's website for a technical bulletin showing you an exploded view of the faucet and its parts.

How Do You Flush Water Lines After A Repair?

To stop sediment from ending up inside the faucets in your home, it is best to open up an outside hose faucet or two to allow water to flow through them after you have completed a plumbing repair on your own home. These faucets often have the old-fashioned rubber or plastic washers. It is also a splendid idea to remove all faucet aerators before water is turned back on after a repair.

I suggest turning on the main water valve very slowly after a home plumbing repair. Be sure to have the outdoor faucets open before you do this. This allows the pressure within the piping system to build slowly and a majority of sediment might be carried outdoors if the repair was made between the location of the hose faucet and the main water inlet to the home.

If a water main breaks near your home and you notice there is no water in your home, do the same thing. While the water is off, go turn on one or two outside hose faucets. Also remove all faucet aerators. Since the water works employees will often turn the water on without notifying each homeowner, you may not get a warning. You want any sediment to be carried to these outside hose faucets or bypass faucet aerators if at all possible.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local plumbers who can fix pressure problems in your home or condo.

Column 612

Spiral Stairs

Posted on March 7, 2006 by Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: It appears I must use a spiral staircase to solve a tight access problem between two floor levels in a room addition I am building. This circular staircase was a shock and I need to get up to speed quickly with respect to sizing, appearance and structural issues. What do I need to know about spiral and circular staircases so I do not regret owning one? Sharon R., Manchester, NH

DEAR SHARON: The first thing you need to do is ensure you are using the correct terms. I have found that some people say one thing and mean another when talking about curved, circular or spiral staircases.

A curved staircase is one that has a gentle bend between floor levels. The total curvature or change of direction from one floor level to the next may only be 90 degrees or less. These sweeping, gentle curves make for dramatic staircases and have had many cameo appearances in movies and television shows. A curved staircase takes up a generous amount of space on the floor plan of a home.

This five-foot wide set of spiral stairs has been heavily used for nearly 20 years. The oak treads are screwed to the metal treads making for a classy, yet contemporary look. PHOTO CREDIT: Tim Carter

Spiral and circular staircases are two different terms that generally describe the same product. These staircases resemble a corkscrew and may twist 270 degrees or even up to 360 degrees as the stairs turn a fairly tight radius. Spiral staircases that connect floor levels of 12 feet or more can sometimes have several complete 360 degree rotations in the staircase. These staircases are often used when space is at a premium and a normal straight, L-shaped or curved staircase will not work.

The least expensive spiral staircases usually have a center support column that each tread connects to. You can purchase helical spiral staircases that have no center support column. The support for the spiral comes from two stringer boards that connect to each flat tread. These stringers are twisted like taffy and each one has a different radius. These spiral staircases are extremely dramatic and seem to float in the air, defying gravity.

I have installed several different spiral staircases. One of the things I've learned is that bigger is better. The overall diameter of the staircase is critical, especially if you think there might be people going up and down the staircase at the same time. If you feel this will happen, then you better consider a spiral staircase that has an overall diameter of six feet or greater.

It is vitally important to talk with building code officials and develop an accurate plan of how the staircase will be built. The railings, tread area, baluster spacing, riser height and overhead clearance are all important considerations with respect to the building code. Do not order a spiral staircase until you have a written approval from your building department. Then be sure the staircase is built exactly as it is drawn.

Spiral staircases can be very heavy. If you plan to have one that will have a center support column, this post needs to bear on a solid floor. If you have a wood subfloor system, you will undoubtedly need to have the center support column directly over a floor joist below. If the staircase is extremely heavy, a structural engineer may have to design a special solution so the staircase does not deflect the subflooring or cause the wood floor to crack.

This spiral staircase was made in one piece by some talented welders. It took four people to carry it and lift it into place. PHOTO CREDIT: Tim Carter

A spiral staircase that rests on a concrete slab is usually not an issue so long as the slab is on compacted fill. But the building department may require special concrete footers beneath the spiral staircase to help spread the weight over a wider area. Do not underestimate the weight of a spiral staircase, especially when four people may be going up or down at the same time.

The variety of spiral staircase styles seems endless to me. They can be ultra-modern to classic Victorian. Any number of manufacturers exist who specialize in these unique, but useful, staircases. It would be very wise for you to consult with several before making a final purchasing decision.

If you decide to have a spiral staircase built in one piece, do not forget to plan how it will be installed. Although the staircase may have a finished diameter of five or six feet, you might be able to make them fit through a smaller three-foot wide doorway. A set of spiral stairs can be brought through a doorway on its side by actually screwing the staircase into the house as you would install a screw into wood. I have seen them dropped through a hole in a roof by a crane. The point is, plan ahead for how the staircase will make it into the house.

The distance between finished floors is very critical. Be sure the distance is calculated from the upper landing to where the lowest tread ends. It is vital the floors are level and measurements are double checked. If possible, schedule a time for the manufacturer to do a field visit to ensure the spiral staircase they are building will work at your jobsite.

Column 611

AsktheBuilder mp3 Radio Show March 4 2006

Posted on March 4, 2006 by Tim Carter

Each title below is a direct link to a downloadable mp3 file. Just click the title if you want to listen. Right click if you want to download into your computer to save and play at a later date.

New Laminate Countertops and Keidel.com

Level a Kitchen Subfloor

Plaster Cracks in an Old 1915 House

Insulate New Walls in a Basement

Failed Septic System Sand Filter

Matching and Painting Exterior Stucco

Builder Framing Mistake