Faux Finishing Basics

Faux Finish Basics

If you decide to go with a faux finish in a room, you must produce a sample first or have the painter do it for you. You can do it on a 2 x 2 foot piece of poster board or a scrap piece of drywall.

The sample will help you in the event of a dispute about the finished product. It also will eliminate any questions as to what you want as the finished product. This is only fair to the painter. Imagine them trying to read your mind as to what you want!

Always take the time to prep out the room. This means plenty of drop cloths, masking tape, covers on lights, safe ladders, etc.

Think small for your first project. When I say small, I mean small - like a closet! You need to get comfortable working around corners and working against woodwork. Why take a chance in a large open area when a closet would do just fine?

If you don't want to sacrifice a closet, why not just buy a blank piece of drywall? You can prime it with a good primer/sealer and then go to town with your faux finish. If you mess up, big deal! Just start over and keep trying until you master the technique. Your largest investment will be your time.


Want a faux finish but don't have time to do it yourself? Find the professional painters by using my Interior Painting & Staining Checklist. I offer a 100% Money Back Guarantee.


If you are happy with your results on the drywall, don't try to tackle a large room or a two story entrance hall. Go to a small bathroom, or possibly a bedroom to try your handiwork. By taking your time and progressing on to bigger rooms in a step-by-step process, you will be assured of great results!

Finishing Touches

Rookie faux painters get into trouble on the edges of their work. Often they try to do the edges last. This is a huge mistake. You need to work all edges and corners while you are there and you have a wet edge.

A wet edge means the paint in that area is still fresh. If you try to come back later, you will have double coverage at worst or you will have inconsistencies in your pattern. Just take your time and work the edges, corners, etc. as you go.

Edges usually require an abundant supply of rags. You can also help yourself by using the proper masking tape. There are surface friendly tapes out now - some are blue - that have a mild adhesive. They stick just well enough to hold the tape and possibly some plastic in place. When you remove them, they don't leave a sticky residue behind. They are found at first class paint stores.

Related Articles: Faux Finishing, Faux Finishing Tools, Faux Finishing Books, Faux Finishing Wall Paneling, Faux Painting

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Faux Finishing

The art of faux painting has been around for many years. Painters have been fooling people for hundreds of years. There is a good chance you have been fooled and didn't even realize it. I can tell you that while doing research for this column I could have been easily fooled! I saw some samples of fake marble that were so real I thought I could carve my name in them. But, alas, they were paper thin. The most amazing thing was how three dimensional the faux marble appeared!

Infinite Possibilities

"There are only 88 keys on a piano", said Gary Lord - one of the top faux painters in the land. "Yet, you can create an infinite amount of music with those keys." I interviewed Gary at his studio for this column and bulletin set. Gary then went on to say that the human eye can perceive nearly 16,000 different colors. This means that the different colors combined with the different faux techniques allow anyone to create countless faux possibilities. I can tell you that Gary has thousands of sample faux finishes as part of his selection process, more than I had time or energy to look at!


Want a faux finish but don't have time to do it yourself? Find the professional painters by using my Interior Painting & Staining Checklist. I offer a 100% Money Back Guarantee.


Faux finishing can make a surface look like real stone.

Faux finishing can make a surface look like real stone.

Price Ranges

If you decide to hire a pro like Gary Lord, you can spend a little or a lot. The simplest faux finishes can be done by a pro for about 75 cents per square foot. If you want a detailed, decorative mural, you will pay nearly $50 per square foot. Most of the common faux finishes created by a professional cost between $1.25 and $3.00 per square foot.

Who Does It?

Would it surprise you if I told you that most of the professional faux finishers out there are women? It shouldn't. They seem to have much more patience and more of an eye for detail than men.

You can find the best faux finishers by calling the interior designers in your area. These people use faux painters on a regular basis. They know who can deliver striking results. If you run into a dead end with interior designers, then try all of the top quality paint stores in your area. The store manager often knows several faux painters. The painters must buy certain types of materials from standard paint stores on a regular basis.

Related Articles: Faux Finishing Basics, Faux Finishing Tools, Faux Finishing Books, Faux Finishing Wall Paneling, Faux Painting

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Aluminum Siding – Paint and Primer Tips

paint aluminum siding

The original paint on this aluminum siding has all but worn away. You can successfully repaint aluminum siding. Copyright 2019 Tim Carter

UPDATE:  New information regarding painting aluminum has been added to this column. Be sure to check the Author's Notes following the article.

Painting Aluminum Siding - It's Easy

You can paint aluminum siding. It's important to realize you have to clean off all the chalking factory paint before you apply the new paint.

Ammonia + Aluminum = Trouble

Virtually all water-based paints have some ammonia in them. Don't ask me what it does, I just know it's there. Anyway, it just so happens that ammonia and oxidized aluminum don't mix very well. In fact, when you mix the two things together a chemical reaction occurs that produces gas. This is just fine in a chemistry lab but not on your siding.

Some books and magazines on painting recommend that you prime aluminum siding and/or paint over existing aluminum siding with water-based primers. This can spell disaster. The problem is that there are quite possibly pinholes or cracks that are not visible to the naked eye where the old aluminum paint has worn off. The aluminum could have been exposed to the air for quite some time. It is oxidized. If you paint this aluminum with a water-based primer, you may create a problem. Small bubbles may form under the paint skin. This could lead to premature film finish.

Oil to the Rescue

Did you know paint companies employ chemists? These individuals know that you must create a barrier between the oxidized aluminum and the water-based acrylic finish paint. It is easy to do.

Virtually every paint manufacturer makes a high-quality oil-based metal priming paint. This is the product to use to create the barrier. However, it is not necessary to apply the primer full strength. In fact, thinning it down actually helps the primer penetrate deeply into the eroded paint finish on your siding.

The trick is to thin one gallon of paint with one pint of thinner. Be sure to use the approved thinner! Don't use gasoline, or some other solvent you think will work. The label on the paint can usually tell you exactly what to use.

Surface Preparation

The key to any successful painting job lies in preparing the surface. The surface to be painted is the foundation. Poor foundations create poor results. This is true in any project. Clean surfaces are the key. If you remember that paint is simply a modified glue, you will be on the right track. Glue likes to stick to rough surfaces - there is more surface area. Glue doesn't like dust. If you follow some of my painting tips, your upcoming paint job will last and last!

Special Primers

You can buy some clear acrylic primers that will not bubble. They are made for old painted aluminum surfaces. William Zinsser makes one called Peel-Stop.

Companion Articles:  Aluminum Gutters Can Be Painted, Aluminum Siding Painting Tips, Paint Your Aluminum Siding, Aluminum Siding Paint Manufacturers

Author's Notes: The following updated information was received from the Paint Quality Institute.  Debbie Zimmer addresses ammonia in latex paints and the resulting bubbling.

"Hi, Tim,

Thanks so much for your questions and comments.  Regarding ammonia in latex paints, it is so low today that the off-gassing (resulting in bubbling) is really not a factor.

Here are a few detailed points to consider:

1. Bare Aluminum: forms a strong oxide layer which is easy to stick to and is relatively inert to ammonia. Some folks confuse ammonia with acid. Yes --- acid will generate some hydrogen gas but there should not be a reaction with ammonia.

2. All Aluminum Siding is coated. This again generally results in a surface that is easy to stick to but for all intents and purposes, relatively inert to water-based paints. Even under poor conditions, incidental exposure to Aluminum should not be a problem because of above (1).

Also, on occasion, we do speak about oxygen bleach but typically use the more common (common to homeowners) "bleach" term.  Perhaps we should use oxygen bleach more often.  We don't use brand names (in any of our materials), such as Clorox.

Tim, I'm really glad you asked the questions --- it helps us make our educational information stronger.

If you are ever in the Philadelphia, PA area, I would love to take you on a tour of our PQI facilities --- we have over 30,000 paint panels on exposure (a few dating back to the '50's) and 1000's with the most recent and forward-looking technologies. In addition, our "farm" contains over 200 different surfaces and substrates (painted/not painted) on exposure as well.

Thanks again,"
Debbie Zimmer
PQI Director of Communications and Alliances
Dow Coating Materials, North America
The Dow Chemical Company

Updated: 08/23/2010

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Aluminum Siding – Paint Tips

UPDATE:  New information regarding painting aluminum has been added to this column. Be sure to check the Author's Notes following the article.

Painting Aluminum Siding & Exterior Painting Tips

OK, let's get the show on the road. We want to paint your aluminum siding. The first thing we are going to do is thoroughly wash the siding. What, go to the tool rental shop? Get a pressure washer? Hmmmmmmmm, let's think about this.

Pressure washers are great when used in the hands of someone who knows how to use them. However, with aluminum siding you can have some problems. For example, if you direct the spray near the ends of pieces at doors and windows, you can create leaks into your home. If you direct the spray at a seam overlap, water can get behind the siding. Also, pressure washing doesn't always get all of the dirt off. If you direct the spray at a downward angle, the area just under the beveled bump-out doesn't even get cleaned!

A better alternative, although more work, is old fashioned elbow grease. Using a large sponge, soapy water, and a scrub brush, you can do a great job.

Start cleaning at the top of the siding and work down. Rinse the cleaned siding until the water runs clear. You want to remove as much old pigment as possible. Even after the siding dries, there is a possibility that a small amount of pigment or chalk will get on your fingers. That's OK.

Primer - A Must

As we discussed earlier, you must apply an oil based metal primer to seal any oxidized aluminum. Try to use a primer that is close in color to your finish paint. You can get primers tinted! Tint it 1/2 or 3/4 strength of what the finish color is supposed to be. Don't forget to thin the primer: 1 pint of thinner to 1 gallon of paint.

Apply the primer after the siding is completely dry. Don't prime too much siding! The freshly primed siding should not be allowed to weather. Ideally you should paint the primed siding the next day. So, don't prime for one week and then paint the next!

Applying the Finish Coat

It's now time for the glory work. This is what everyone wants to do right away. They are impatient. They want instant gratification. Great things come to those who wait! Finish painting of aluminum siding is critical. The weather can ruin your job! No, I don't mean rain. Sun and wind are your enemies! These two adversaries will cause the paint to dry too rapidly. The paint will not have a chance to get a good grip on the primer. The sun can actually boil the water beneath the outer paint skin and cause blisters! It has happened to me. The old saying is follow the sun. This means try to paint in the shade. Let the sun hit a wall and paint it after it is gone or high in the sky. Paint north facing walls on sunny days and south facing walls on overcast days. Cool, overcast days are ideal for painting aluminum siding. These days are easy on the paint and your body. Wait for a good day and you may squeeze an extra 5 years from the job!

Companion Articles:  Aluminum Gutters Can Be Painted, Paint Your Aluminum Siding, Aluminum Siding Paint Manufacturers, Aluminum Siding - Paint and Primer Tips

Author's Notes: The following updated information was received from the Paint Quality Institute.  Debbie Zimmer addresses ammonia in latex paints and the resulting bubbling.

"Hi Tim,

Thanks so much for your questions and comments.  Regarding ammonia in latex paints, it is so low today that the off gassing (resulting in bubbling) is really not a factor.
 
Here are a few detailed points to consider:
 
1. Bare Aluminum: forms a strong oxide layer which is easy to stick to and is relatively inert to ammonia. Some folks confuse ammonia with acid. Yes --- acid will generate some hydrogen gas but there should not be a reaction with ammonia.
 
2. All Aluminum Siding is coated. This again generally results in a surface that is easy to stick to but for all intents and purposes, relatively inert to waterbased paints. Even under poor conditions, incidental exposure to Aluminum should not be a problem because of above (1).
 
Also, on occasion, we do speak about oxygen bleach but typically use the more common (common to homeowners) "bleach" term.  Perhaps we should use oxygen bleach more often.  We don't use brand names (in any of our materials), such as Clorox.
 
Tim, I'm really glad you asked the questions --- it helps us make our educational information stronger.
 
If you are ever in the Philadelphia, PA area, I would love to take you on a tour of our PQI facilities --- we have over 30,000 paint panels on exposure (a few dating back to the '50's) and 1000's with the most recent and forward looking technologies. In addition, our "farm" contains over 200 different surfaces and substrates (painted/not painted) on exposure as well.
 
Thanks again,"
Debbie Zimmer
PQI Director of Communications and Alliances
Dow Coating Materials, North America
The Dow Chemical Company

Updated: 08/23/2010

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Aluminum Siding – Paint Manufacturers

Manufacturers of Acrylic Aluminum Siding Paint

*You can buy many of these paints in 3 types of sheen: Flat, satin, or semi-gloss. Also, some of the prices below were 'sale' prices. To compare apples with apples, always ask what the full retail price is per gallon. Paints with high quantities of acrylic resins will always cost more!

Typically the higher the gloss the longer lasting the paint. Gloss happens when you have higher quantities of resin. Resin is the ingredient of paint that protects and surrounds the pigment particles. However, the downside to gloss with aluminum siding is that it is more likely to highlight surface defects such as dings, dents, waves, scratches, etc. It may be worth the investment of money and time to buy a quart of gloss and flat and test them in an area. See which result you like.

BRAND OF PAINT
PRODUCT NAME 100% ACRYLIC?
 
Benjamin Moore
201-573-9600
Moore Guard Low Luster Yes
 
Glidden
800-984-5444
Spred Ultra Yes
 
Kurfees
502-584-0151
Now
Gray Seal Paints
Yes
 
Porter Paints
513-242-3050
Super Acrylic Yes
 
Sherwin Williams
800-336-1110
A-100 Yes

Companion Articles:  Aluminum Gutters Can Be Painted, Aluminum Siding Painting Tips, Paint Your Aluminum Siding, Aluminum Siding - Paint and Primer Tips

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Quote and Bid Tips

Tips on Bid and Quotation Comparison

The key to obtaining professional bids and quotations is to provide the contractors with as much data as possible. The fuzzier your thoughts, plans and specifications, the more ambiguous your bids will be. In fact, the bids may be higher than they should be, because each contractor is trying to protect themselves from delays you may create while trying to make up your mind. This fact is often overlooked by many homeowners. Remember, contractors are not mind readers!

How many should I get?

I have been asked in the past to bid jobs against five to seven other contractors. In these instances, I refuse to prepare a quotation. Generally speaking, I have determined that a wide majority of these people are merely shopping for price. My suggestion to you is to try to find three contractors who are about the same size and who perform similar levels of quality. Getting prices from three similar individuals will give you an excellent range of pricing. Never, never obtain just one bid!

Exposing yourself

Never tell a contractor what you are prepared to spend on a project. If, by chance, you are dealing with a dishonest contractor, his/her price may be just under your ceiling. However, you may be asked by a contractor what you are willing to spend. I have done this in the past so as not to waste time in preparing an estimate. I have successfully overcome this dilemma. Experienced contractors can generally compute a square foot cost estimate quickly when looking at a job. Ask the contractors to do just that and present these prices to you. Each party realizes that these are tentative numbers. However, they allow you to determine if the project is out of reach early in the bidding process.

Itemized Quotations

Always demand an itemized quotation. These quotations are invaluable. They allow you to see just how each contractor arrived at his/her price. These quotations enable you and the contractors to determine if anything has been overlooked in the bidding process. This eliminates any financial surprises after a project begins.

Itemized quotations also enable you to set up a fair and equitable payment schedule with your contractor. Because you can see what each aspect of the job costs, you can be sure that you only pay for items which have been installed or are on site. This method will afford you great peace of mind.

Insurance Documentation

Be sure that your bids include copies of all insurance documentation. Professionals have readily available copies of their Worker's Compensation certificates and General Liability policies. Demand that copies of these be included in your bid envelope. Often low bids are low because insurance premiums are not really being paid. Remember, anybody can say that they are insured. Don't rely on hope. Get copies of these valuable certificates!

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Avoid Contractor Allowances

Allowances & Tips on Bid and Quotation Comparison

Allowances have created more problems between homeowners and contractors than you can imagine. Often they manifest themselves as financial time bombs that explode in the middle of a project. Sometimes they create enormous heartache when customers find out that the items they would really like to have are 100 to 200 percent over budget.

Allowances are cost items for products or services in a construction project that have yet to be specified or defined. You can compare them to a budget number on a financial forecast. Herein lies the problem with allowances. You 'hope' that you can get what you want for the specified number. Basing financial expectations on 'hope' is a very dangerous thing to do.

However, there are instances when allowances can be used successfully in a project. It requires skill, honesty, and timing on the part of the contractor for allowances to become an asset.

Confusion

Allowances have been known to create vast amounts of confusion when attempting to compare quotations from several different contractors. For example, let's assume that two contractors quote allowances and one specifies the exact item he will use with no price attached to it. You are forced to find out his cost and then perform mathematics to equalize the three different quotations. If you make a mistake, you may end up selecting a contractor who doesn't represent the best value.

Working with allowances also creates another major problem. You can start a job and be unsure of the final quality and cost of the items you intend to use. A contractor may misrepresent (either on purpose or by mistake) what an item or group of items really costs. Unfortunately, you find out after the project has started and possibly open yourself up to disappointment. I have seen it happen in many instances where people have had to settle for a lesser quality item because what they wanted cost too much.

These same people could often have had what they wanted if they had known the true cost in the beginning. They could have either borrowed more money from the bank, or adjusted some other aspect of the project to accommodate the allowance overage.

Dishonesty Factor

Some contractors are notorious for using allowances as an effective selling tool. These contractors attempt to include as many allowances as possible in their quotations. Often, they set artificially low numbers as the allowance figure. This practice almost always ensures that their quotation will show the lowest price. Those individuals who shop for price fall for this ploy virtually every time.

However, reality sets in after the contract has been signed or several days or weeks into the job. At this point it is too late to 'fire' the contractor. He or she knows this. You are then forced to scramble to raise the additional funds to purchase the items you need.

Losing Proposition

Allowances pose another problem that many homeowners overlook. This problem can result in a windfall profit for a builder or subcontractor or create another hidden charge. Here is the problem.

Let's say your architect or your plans call for a whirlpool tub or some other large item to be installed in your project. Whirlpools come in many different sizes and weights. The plumber bidding the job (if he /she has been in the business longer than 90 days) will probably assume that you will wind up selecting the heaviest, most complicated whirlpool made. He will base his/her price on this assumption. If you select a lightweight, easy-to-install whirlpool, what chance do you think that you will receive a rebate? My guess is less than 1 in 10.

In fact, if you are dealing with a bold and extremely dishonest plumber and contractor, you can get double charged! Assume that you do pick the whirlpool that the plumber thought you would. He or she can tell you that they figured on putting in a lightweight, easy one. This person will then tell you that they need more money to install the one you selected. Trust me, I know of instances where this has happened. It is frightening to think that people are this dishonest. To make matters worse, this will happen thousands of times in the upcoming year to homeowners across this nation. Hopefully, it will never happen to you.

Allowances & Changes

Allowances can create another insidious problem. Imagine this scenario. Let's say that you have an allowance for a medicine cabinet. Let's further assume that your contractor is not as organized as he/she should be.

The rough framing proceeds as does the plumbing and electric rough-ins. At this point you begin your search for your medicine cabinet. After visiting the store, you select the jumbo medicine cabinet that has everything. Anyway, after delivering the dimensions to your contractor, he informs you the next day that pipes and wires must be moved to accommodate your choice. Guess who has to pay? It will be you 9 times out of 10, trust me.

Avoiding the Nightmares

How, you might ask, can these problems be avoided? It's simple. Preselect as many items as possible prior to completion of your plans and specifications.

If you are serious about your project and you are going to complete it, you will eventually have to make product selections. It is better to make them at the beginning of the project so that they can be discussed with the architect or project planner. Often certain things will need to be drawn on the plans to indicate how and where the items should be placed.

Also, selection of items before the project begins allows you vast sums of time to observe as your project is being built. You will eliminate all of those hectic last minute shopping trips.

The preselection of items also allows you to identify what items are special order items. This fact will be beneficial to your builder, especially if it is noted in the plans and specifications. A large majority of project delays can be blamed on special order items. Frequently, a homeowner makes a selection three weeks ahead of time before an item is needed on the job, only to find out that the item will take six to eight weeks to arrive! This happens every day somewhere in this great land!

The preselection of items prior to the start of construction allows you to assemble technical information regarding the correct installation of items. If you are interested, you can read this material and watch to make sure that the products are, in fact, being installed correctly. Everyone can make mistakes, including your contractor. You just might catch a mistake one day that otherwise might have gone unnoticed.

The elimination of allowances will provide you with very crisp numbers when your bids are presented. Because each contractor knows exactly what you want, there should be no surprises. In the event that he/she makes a mistake, there is virtually no place for them to manipulate the numbers.

Project delays should be kept to a minimum. Once again, the contractor knows what you want. You effectively place the ownership of the 'delay' problem solely on the shoulders of the contractor. He/she cannot blame you for making slow decisions or picking out a hard-to-get item.

Elimination of allowances also lets you or your contractor construct an accurate time-line regarding the scheduling of the entire project. Because you know exactly what is going to be installed, lead times on ordering, and correct installation times, a simple critical path method chart can be constructed. This chart will permit you and the contractor to accurately predict the completion date of your project.

Time Savers?

Architects and contractors often try to use allowances as 'time savers'. They indicate that projects can be started sooner by having you make selections as the project progresses. This is not always true. Tell me, do you think it is worth $500 to $1,000 to preselect items? One change order can easily cost this amount!

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Interior Door Installation Tips

Interior Door Installation - Time Saving Tips

Just recently, I transformed a customer's house in two days. The homeowner had decided that her plain hollow core interior doors were outdated. When she first contacted me, she was not thrilled about the prospect of tearing out the doors, frames and interior trim. I looked at her and indicated that most of that work was unnecessary. She at first thought I was kidding. I said that the frames were nice and square, the trim was in good shape, and that all she needed were doors. This news provided her with a windfall of extra money. She upgraded to the next level of designer door. Needless to say, she was delighted.

Instant Gratification

There are literally millions of houses built in the 1950s, 60s and 70s that have hollow core flush doors. They were popular during those time periods. One of the reasons they were popular was that it was just about your only choice! Only in the last five to ten years has there been a a wide variety of interior door styles.

Homeowners who are building new homes or remodeling existing homes now have a wide selection to choose from. You can get doors that are solid core as well as hollow core. Doors are available with different species of wood grains. Birch, oak, mahogany and other species are readily available. In fact, I am typing this bulletin on top of a damaged oak door which I use as a computer table! It is not simulated oak. It is the real McCoy!

This wide array of doors, styles, veneers, etc. coupled with the fact that a door can be changed out in as little as an hour enables you to completely change the feel of a room or an entire house in one day!

What's Really Involved?

OK, so you think you want to change out a door yourself. You realize that you are not a master carpenter. You back off. Not so fast! If your door frames are square and you can take accurate measurements, this job is doable. I'm serious.

Many lumber companies and home centers here in Cincinnati will gladly sell you a door that they can mill to your specifications. Mill to your specifications? Doors need to have holes drilled for locksets and mortises created for flush hinge installation. That's what milling is. You provide the "specifications" - locations of these holes and mortises.

The first thing to do is to make a little drawing of the room which the door serves. Draw the four walls and the door opening. Try to make it to scale. Draw the door on the plan in a partially open position. One side of the door (the hinge side) should be "attached" to one side of the opening on your drawing. Make sure it's attached to the right side!

Now you need to take some measurements with the door in the closed position. You need to be on the side of the door, when it's closed, so that you can see the hinge pins. This will enable you to measure the door at its widest point. You see, most interior doors have a slight bevel along the edge opposite the hinge edge. This bevel allows the door to close without banging against the frame. Without the bevel, the gap on the latch side of the door would be large and unsightly.

OK, enough about bevels. Measure the width of the door at the top, middle and bottom. Hopefully, it will be very nearly the same. The measurement should be very close to 30 inches, or 32 inches, or some other even number. It may be an 1/8th of an inch less or so. That's OK. Be sure to get an accurate reading down to the 1/8th of an inch. Draw a picture of the door and note the width on the drawing. Do the same thing for the height of the door. Take a reading at each end.

Now for the hinges. Open the door and measure from the top down. Note where each hinge starts and stops. Always measure from the top of the door. Do not measure from hinge to hinge!

The lockset is the only remaining measurement. We need two measurements for this. First, measure from the top down to the center of the lockset. Second, measure from the edge of the door to the center of the lockset. This second measurement will be one of two measurements in 99 percent of the cases: 2 3/8 or 2 3/4 inch. It is called the backset measurement.

Finally, use a framing square to check to see if the door is square. Check each top corner. If the top corners are square, you will be in good shape. If the bottom is not square because it was cut off for carpet or whatever, the lumber yard will figure this out from your top to bottom measurements.

That's Too Tough Tim!

So, you're a lightweight. You can't run with us big dogs. No problem! There is an easier way. Simply take the door off the hinges and offer it up as a sacrifice to the lumber company for a week. They will make an exact copy of the door for you. If you choose to do this, be sure to write in pencil, on both sides of the door, which is the TOP. Do this BEFORE you take the door off its hinges. More than one carpenter has reversed a door and milled it upside down!

I highly recommend that you consider an interior door remodel. You can really change the look and feel of your home with new doors. Your frustration with those flimsy hollow core doors will disappear when you close that new solid core three, four or six panel door!

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Interior Doors Manufacturers

Interior Doors Manufacturers

Following is a partial listing of interior door manufacturers. Many make similar style doors of similar quality. You may find a door style that you like from one company that matches one that you can easily obtain. You will be amazed at the selection!

  • Byrcon Wood Products 
  • Craftmaster Manufacturing, Inc. 
  • Doors by Decora 
  • Historic Doors 
  • JELD-WEN 
  • Masonite 
  • Simpson Door Company

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Installing Interior Pre Hung Doors

Pre-Hung Doors

Are you a weekend warrior who wants to install a new pre-hung door? Are you experiencing a little anxiety? As they say in Jamaica: No problem!

Let's assume that you created a large enough rough opening. I always make my rough openings two inches wider and three inches taller than the size of the door for standard interior door units. This gives you plenty of room to wiggle and shim the door.

If you took your time in the rough framing and used straight lumber, you should have no problems. Always hang a door starting with the hinge jamb. The rough jamb on the hinge side of the door should be plumb. If this is the case, you can nail the door jamb right to the rough jamb. If not, you will need to shim the hinge jamb to make it plumb.

I always use eight penny finish nails to nail the jamb. Do NOT nail the nails in all the way at this time! Leave them sticking out 1/4 inch in case you have to make adjustments. I put one nail equal in height at each hinge location and at each shim location.

Now let's start on the other jamb. But first, we need to look at the top jamb reveal. Stand on a bucket or a ladder. Look at the gap between the top of the door and the jamb. Is this gap equal? If not, the latch side jamb needs to go up or down to make this gap equal. Do what you have to do to make this gap equal.

The latch side jamb is shimmed to create a similar equal gap. I always shoot for a 1/8 inch gap. No larger! Usually the controlling measurement is what the gap is at the top of the door. The people who milled the door and door frame create this gap measurement. If they did their job right, you simply need to shim the door every 16 inches so the latch jamb is parallel with the edge of the door. Once again, when nailing, don't drive the nails all the way.

When checking for an equal gap, be sure to put pressure against the jamb. You may think the gap is equal, but will be surprised when you nail the jamb tight. Cedar shims can compress and mess up your gap. Be patient and all will go well. If you have to cut off the bottom of the door, be sure to paint or seal it immediately! This prevents warping.

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