Kitchen Cabinets – Painting

painting kitchen cabinets

Paint is a very interesting material. It reminds me of a show I used to watch on television as a child. A friendly witch would twitch her nose and presto, something would change (usually for the better)! Paint isn't as fast, but it can really transform an object, room or set of cabinets.

What's more, if you incorporate multiple colors, stenciling or specialized painting techniques, you can really accomplish some inexpensive redecorating.

Common Complaints

Painting cabinets can lead to problems. There are two primary reasons for this: surface contamination and previous gloss or slick surfaces.

Surface contamination (a fancy term for dirt, cooking grease, old food, dust, etc.) interferes with the ability of paint to hold onto the new surface. If you paint a dirty surface, the paint sticks to the dirt, not the surface below the dirt. Peeling paint is a reality. I have seen it happen many times.

Previously painted or stained kitchen cabinets almost always have a slick or glossy surface. Why? Because this makes them easier to clean. A glossy surface doesn't have those microscopic grooves that trap dirt. This is great for cleaning, but bad for paint! Paint needs lots of tiny grooves or scratches to grab onto.

Successful paint jobs are based on thorough preparation. Clean, sand, fill all holes, caulk where necessary and your paint job will really look professional.

This popular column was shared in my December 29, 2010 Newsletter.

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Painting a Toilet

Painting a Toilet - Color Photos and Tips

You can paint toilets! But I don't want you to paint the inside of the bowl! In fact, just two days ago I was at a delightful plumbing supply house in my city - Keidel Supply - and saw a new painted toilet by Kohler. It had a humming bird on the tank front and tank lid. It was gorgeous. You could feel the paint or decal or whatever as you rubbed your hand over the surface.

Oil Paint

High gloss oil paint sticks very well to glazed china surfaces. You don't have to do any preparation work other than cleaning the surface and making sure it is dry.

Painting a scene is only to be done by a person who has talent. If you want stick people on your toilet, give me a call! I have zero artistic talent with respect to scenes, forms, etc. I can do two dimensional drawings, but not proportioned 3D paintings.

Coordination

If you decide to paint your toilet or some other china object, use scenes from wallpaper or a magazine to inspire you. Yes, you can give the artist some latitude, but you want the final painted product to blend with the surroundings. Keep in mind that you can strip off the paint down the road if you grow to dislike the look. Regular paint strippers will readily remove the paint without harming the china.

Always have the artist do a quick sketch before you proceed to the final project. Be sure the proportions are right and the look is what you want.

Painting Photos

This photo should help you get a feel for what is possible when you decide to paint a toilet or any other piece of glazed china. Look at the detail on the canisters! The artist who painted them used a fine brush and a steady hand to create the random look of the ferns. The black lettering was also done free hand with black paint. The paint job is over 20 years old and looks as good as the day it was completed.

The seaside border is in the bathroom where I have a plain white toilet. My oldest daughter is going to take elements from the border and paint them on the tank face and the tank lid. She has not yet decided what she is going to do. But I can assure you it will be spectacular. Keep in mind that if you have to hire an artist, they can take the toilet tank off and keep it in their studio. They don't have to paint it in place!

Related Column:

Paint a Toilet? Sure!

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Special Gray Primer & Manufacturers

Special Gray Primers

I thought about this analogy after I wrote my column about the new special gray primers: If you are above the age of 50, you very likely are somewhat familiar with black and white photography. Think about it, many younger people have never really seen black and white photos! Color photos today are as common as just about anything routine in your life. I can remember years ago when color photos from the drug store were special. But think about black and white photos - say ones you might see in the newspaper. The objects in the photos were a variety of colors, yet in the photos they come out various shades of gray. In modern computer graphics and television production, this is called gray-scale. There is a complimentary shade of gray for each and every unique color on the color palette.

It then goes without saying that if you determine the complimentary gray color for each color, then that color of gray will act as a unique and powerful primer that will not affect the final finish color that is applied over the special gray tone. This is the basic technology or thinking behind this new system. It works and it works well. I actually viewed test panels that were painted with the gray primers and the final color. They actually looked better than test panels that had two or three coats of just the colored paint!

You may get weird looks when you walk into a paint store and talk about these primers. This is cutting edge technology in the paint industry even though the concept behind it has been around for years. It simply was not applied to the paint industry. The two places where you should be welcomed if you ask about the special gray primers are listed below:

Sears Stores

Simply go to their paint department and ask about the new Bob Vila line of paints. Look at the brochures describing this new paint system.

Sherwin Williams Paint Stores

They also offer the new gray primer system. They may only offer several shades of gray, but that's OK. The shades they offer work with every color that you will find on their paint chips.

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Painting – Proper Equipment

Equipment

Consider purchasing fiberglass extension poles if you use paint rollers. With a little practice, you won t be jumping on and off a ladder to do those ceilings and high spots on walls. They really work well. Also, when using a pole, you don't get all those little sprinkles in your eyes!

Brushes and rollers: Simply put, buy the best that you can. There is a big difference in quality. A good brush, taken care of and cleaned properly, will last for years. Not only that, the finish will look much, much better. Good rollers don't shed their nap on your walls and ceiling. Nothing is more annoying!

Cleaning brushes and rollers to maintain them is easy. Consider buying a spinner. This is a cool tool that spins a roller cover. The cover slides onto the spinner and you push and pull a handle that makes the spinner operate. Once the roller is wet, it spins out the paint like a washing machine spins clothes. With some practice you can completely clean a roller cover in less than 90 seconds. One trick is to use a curved tool to scrape out excess paint from the roller before you start to spin it.


Do your white walls need some color? Find the professional painters by using my Interior Painting & Staining Checklist or my Exterior Painting & Staining Checklist. I offer a 100% Money Back Guarantee.


You can clean brushes with a spinner too but I prefer to clean them in an empty paint can. I swish the brush back and forth rapidly in warm soapy water. Don't mash the bristles down on the bottom of the can nor hold the brush upside down in a stream of water. You can permanently damage the bristles doing this.

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Applying Primer and Wall Paint

Priming

Painting new wood? Shifting from an oil painted surface to latex or water based paints? New drywall? If so, you must use primers, sealers or a combination of the two. These paints are specially formulated. They help even out textures and equalize porosity. Without them, the best finish paint will look lousy. I spoke about these primer paints in this linked article.

Applying Wall Paint

Most rookie painters make the same mistake. They simply put on too little paint. Many paint manufacturers recommend a minimum coverage for their products. They do this because they know that when first applied, a paint looks like it is covering well. But, an hour or two later, after the water or solvent has evaporated, the coverage looks horrible. You, the homeowner, then blame the paint. Well, it's your fault, not the paint's!


Do your white walls need some color? Find the professional painters by using my Interior Painting & Staining Checklist. I offer a 100% Money Back Guarantee.


This happened to me recently at my daughter's school. I test painted a wall that was previously light blue. We were changing to a wall paint that was almost white. I primed the wall and got good coverage on the first coat. After it dried, here and there you could see the blue through the paint. I knew this would happen. The next night some volunteers painted the other walls in the room while I was helping elsewhere. I specifically showed them the wall I had primed. It was made clear to them that they must not over-roll (apply too thinly) the paint. I even showed them how thick I was applying the paint. Oh well, what a waste of time! I came back into the room one hour later and it looked as if they had poured five gallons of water into one gallon of paint. The paint was applied so thinly that we had to paint everything they did an additional time. Don't let this happen on your job!

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Painting Tips

So you want your upcoming paint job to really be first class? Well, who doesn't? Painting always seems so easy, yet when completed the results are not often the greatest.

Prep Work - - It's the Key!

By far the most unglamorous part of painting is the work you should do before you pop the top to the paint can. In the trade it's called prep work. There is so much to do to achieve that really professional look. Surely you don't think it happens by accident?

First, you need to always start with clean surfaces. Invariably it says this on a paint can, but few people go to the trouble to wash walls. Remember, paints are simply glues. They stick to things.

Filling holes and patching cracks: The paint can only do so much. In fact, many people think that paint can fill or bridge small cracks, because they see how thick the paint is. Well, I can understand where this comes from. Paint companies know that much of the vehicle - the component of paint that makes it a liquid - in the paint evaporates into the air as the paint dries. This is why they recommend applying paint three times thicker - referred to as mil thickness - than the finished dry mil thickness. More on this in a moment. Take the time to fill all holes and cracks. The best time to do this, believe it or not, is at night time. Holes and lines show up much more when sunlight is not pouring through a window or door. Try this yourself, and see if I'm not telling you the truth!


Do your white walls need some color? Find the professional painters by using my Interior Painting & Staining Checklist. I offer a 100% Money Back Guarantee.


Caulking

This is where most people miss the boat. The pros use caulk like a runner drinks water. Lots of it. Each and every crack between woodwork and wall and woodwork and woodwork must be filled for that first class appearance. I always recommend priming the areas which are to be painted first. This way, the cracks always seem to be better defined.

Caulking is an art. For interior purposes, I recommend using an acrylic caulk, matched closely in color to what you are painting. Cut the end of the tube close to the size of the cracks you are caulking. Apply the caulk, 2 feet at a time. Wipe the bead with your finger to smooth the joint and to press it into the crack. Then *now here is the important part* wipe the part you just caulked with a damp sponge. This removes excess caulk from the areas adjacent to the crack. This step is often overlooked by the novice.

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Painting Fiberglass Doors Black

DEAR TIM:

I have a question about changing the color of a fiberglass exterior door. I purchased a mahogany fiberglass door for the front of my house. My shutters are black and I want to know if I can paint the door black? What would be your advice? Thanks!

Pam

- - -

DEAR PAM:

If the door gets lots of direct sunlight, it could be a huge mistake. The black paint can absorb a tremendous amount of heat and there may be an issue with the paint bubbling. But, if the door is shaded by a nice roof or faces north, you will be just fine. Be sure you use a paint that has a blend of acrylic and urethane resins.

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Termites Turn Wood to Dust

DEAR TIM: I know nothing about termites or the damage that they cause. My husband and I have been looking for a home to buy for almost a year. We found the house about a month ago. We were told by the Realtor that there were termites but the owner had treated the house. We have already paid for the appraisal and the home inspection. We were going to close this week.

But the Realtor called my husband on Thursday and told us that the seller was not going to have another termite inspection. We would not agree to this. So the Realtor agreed to pay for the termite inspection out of his pocket. So Friday we had our final walk through and my husband and a friend went under the house and found that approximately 24 feet of the face plate, the floor joist, and something else were just dust.

We do not have the money to invest in the repair. We have already paid almost a $1,000.00 that we may lose. Is this something that the seller should fix? And if they fix it will the home be just as good as before the damage, or should we just call it a bad experience and go on looking for another home to buy? And should our home inspector have seen this damage? Misty Dunfee

DEAR MISTY: Your home inspector blew it. I would call him and ask for the name of his insurance carrier. Or did you get this information before you hired him? If he has a good policy, the insurance policy may pay for the repair and all will be well and good.


Termite infestation? Pick the best exterminator using my Termite and Carpenter Ant Checklist. I offer a 100% Money Back Guarantee.


If you don't mind I would like to take a moment and sort of say I Told You So; if you would have read a column at my website about the home buying process and who the *best* inspectors are, you might not be in this predicament.

But that aside, you may have some negotiating power. Aside from being a home builder, I am also a licensed real estate broker. If you are lucky, your state laws may be such that you now have a leverage tool. Most states have property disclosure laws.

Now that the damage has been brought to the attention of the owner, he MUST disclose it to all future potential buyers. If he doesn't and a buyer finds out after a sale that the owner knew of the defect, the owner is subject to painful legal expenses, plus the cost of repairing the property.

To get the wheels in motion with respect to making this new termite damage work in your favor, write the owner a letter as well as any listing real estate broker. Send the letters certified mail and note in the letters that a paper trail of the defect has now been created. That letter, once received, will get some attention.

So now that he knows of the defect, this means he is going to have to fix it or lower the price of the house by the cost of the repair. Any savvy real estate agent who is working on behalf of the buyer's interest knows this and should be working this angle to get the house for the lowest price possible.

But the problem is more complex. Is there even more damage than what you have discovered? If so, then this may not be a great buy and you might want to think of the $1,000 as a tuition payment to the College of Hard Knocks. It may be smarter in the long run to move on and find a house that is in better condition.

Read about more termites damaging wood in my Little Termites Cause Huge Damage.

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Wall Anchors for Shelf Systems

Many people dread installing anything on concrete or concrete block walls. The same is sometimes true for drywall. Drywall is weak and failures are common, while concrete and concrete block can be difficult to drill. There seems to be no happy medium.

Anchors & Friction Fit

Just about every concrete anchor or anchoring system you choose works by employing friction. The object you are anchoring responds to the force of gravity - it wants to fall off the wall or get to a lower state of energy. The anchor works against this force.

The strength of the resistive force has many variables. Among them are the length of the anchor, the diameter of the anchor, its shape, the strength of the material in which the anchor is embedded, etc. You can see it is fairly complicated.

The size of an anchor is very important. The larger the shaft size of an anchor, the greater the amount of surface area of metal that anchor possesses. It can be significant! Take a 1/4 inch anchor as compared to a 1/2 inch anchor. The surface area of the 1/2 inch anchor available to grab is 100 percent greater than the 1/4 inch anchor.

A Multitude of Choices

There are tons of choices when it comes to anchors. You can use the old fashion lead shields, plastic tap in anchors, split bolts (a fat tipped blunt nail), stud anchors, sleeve anchors, concrete screws, etc.

Large cities have specialty stores that sell these high performance anchors. You can find some of these at high quality hardware stores, but your best selection will be at an anchor store. I recommend that you obtain a copy of the Business to Business Yellow Pages from your local phone company. This is THE book! You will almost always find these specialty companies under the FASTENERS heading.

Anchoring Tips - Methods

The ultimate strength of the anchor you install depends as much on the anchor you choose as it does the material in which you place the anchor. The concrete, concrete block, brick, mortar, wood, drywall, etc. must be sound for the anchor to perform at its highest design level.

What's more, it is important where the anchor is placed. If you place an anchor too close to an edge, the anchor can actually split the concrete, block or brick. I know, it has happened to me! The fastener manufacturers can provide you with excellent literature which tells you how close to an edge a particular anchor can be placed.

Corrosion

How long do you want that anchor to last? What kind of weather/ environment is the anchor exposed to? These are important questions, especially if the anchor is exposed to water, salt, sea water, etc. If the anchor fails because of rust, you could have a major problem. Often anchors are available in stainless steel versions that cost just a little more, but save you immense headaches in the future.

Dust Removal in Concrete

If you plan to anchor something in concrete, be sure to remove the dust from the holes you drill. Dust in the hole can actually act as a lubricant to a degree. It can interfere with the friction fit intended by the manufacturer. You can purchase a bulb type blower that has a nozzle. Squeezing the bulb directs a blast of air into the hole. You can also use a straw, but BE CAREFUL! Dust will immediately get into your face and eyes. Wear goggles or close your eyes while blowing into the straw.

In a Pinch?

Guess what really works well? Believe it or not, two 16 penny common sinker nails driven simultaneously into a 1/4 inch hole! I have used this technique for years to attach wall plates to concrete floors. You simply put the wall in place, drill right through the wood plate with a 6 inch long 1/4 inch hammer drill bit and into the concrete. Be sure that the bit penetrates two inches into the concrete.

You pull the drill out and hammer two 16d nails side by side into the hole. The nails bite ferociously into the concrete. Often it is impossible to extract them. It is an effective, inexpensive way to attach wood to concrete. Be sure to use a 20 oz. hammer when installing the nails!

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Hardware for Shelves on Concrete and Drywall

Shelf Hanging Tips

Size Shelves for Objects

Take a few moments to determine just what will go on the shelves. The object is to build a shelf wide enough for the objects being stored. Not only that, why build shelves that waste vertical space? If the objects being stored are a consistent or close height, then let's only leave an inch or two of space above them before the next shelf, not three to five inches!

Basement Shelves on Concrete Walls

I have extensive shelves on concrete walls. All I did was attach CCA treated lumber 2x2's on the concrete wall using my two nail technique. Then I ripped a 4x8 sheet of 1/2 CDX plywood into three shelves - 15 7/8 inch x 8 feet. I then attached a 2x3 on edge to the front of each shelf as a stiffening apron. This helps to keep the shelf from sagging. Then at each end I installed a vertical 2x4 from the floor to the ceiling. I screwed through this 2x4 into the 2x3 apron. It helps to add one additional vertical standard at the middle of the system for strength. These shelves are very strong!

Drywall Shelves

I have had the best luck using metal shelf standards. Books are enormously heavy. If you try to rely on drywall itself, you are making a grave mistake. Design your shelf system to attach to the wall studs behind the drywall. The key is to install the vertical standards perfectly level. If the standards are out of level, the shelves will be also.

The metal shelf standards come in different finishes. The shelf brackets can be adjusted for different heights every inch or so. Different width brackets are available that will fit on the same standard. You can have shelves that stagger inward as they get higher on the wall.

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