Functional Kitchen Design Ideas
Dishwashing
Consider elevating your dishwasher. If you elevate your dishwasher by nine to 12 inches, you will be surprised how easy it is to load and unload. Never again will you have to bend over! This idea causes the countertop, in many instances, to be interrupted. The resulting platform is an excellent height for a microwave, TV, or radio.
Lighting
Give serious consideration to both direct and indirect lighting. This means using recessed lighting to cast light on specific work areas and using indirect light for general lighting purposes. Fluorescent lights hidden above wall cabinets can produce magnificent results if disguised well and balanced within the room.
Sound Considerations
Kitchens are noisy places. The materials in kitchens also don't help matters much, as they easily reflect or bounce sound. Consider cork flooring, which is easy on your feet and absorbs sound (see Bulletin Cork Flooring Products). Also, if an island is in your plans, consider building walls around three sides. Make these walls 42 inches high and insulate the walls. The extra height walls provide a great place for electric receptacles. Also, insulate the walls between the kitchen and other rooms of the house if possible. Insulate the ceiling as well. Attempt to reduce sound producing activities. By using pull-out drawers for pots and pans, rattling will be kept to a minimum.
Windows
If you have a window at your sink, consider enlarging it so that the sill of the window becomes an extension of the countertop. It is a dramatic effect and also can serve in certain instances as a convenient pass thru for outside dining.
Avoid flaws and mistakes when planning your new kitchen. Use my Kitchen Remodeling Checklist as your remodel guide. I offer a 100% Money Back Guarantee.
Hidden Waste
Absolutely make every effort possible to put garbage cans and recycling cans in pull out or tilt out cabinets. Open waste containers in the room are unsightly.
Distinctive Cabinets & Countertops
Your cabinets and countertops make up the largest components of your new kitchen. Do whatever you can to personalize these items. For example, if your budget will permit choose a cabinet line which has matching complimentary trims such as crown molding, valances, etc. These items can dress up the tops of cabinets or the room by continuing the cabinet theme towards the ceiling.
Countertops can be highly customized. The edges of countertops, even plastic laminate, can be easily individualized. Different color laminates or pieces of wood can be added to countertops with dramatic results. Solid surface countertop material offers virtually unlimited design possibilities. These materials can be shaped just like wood. This means that you can use any router bit to create the edge of your liking. Countertops, when done properly, will make or break a kitchen design. Spend some time and find the best fabricator in your town.
Wholesale Residential Kitchen Cabinets
The KCMA Connection
The kitchen cabinet (and bath) manufacturers realized some time ago that they had to gain the respect of consumers and designers (those who specify certain cabinets). To do so, they had to develop minimum quality standards which acted as a yardstick by which to measure cabinet quality.
They did this through their association, the Kitchen Cabinet Manufacturers Association (KCMA, www.kcma.org). This association developed a set of guidelines by which cabinet quality could be measured. These guidelines are met by performing over 60 separate tests on cabinets. These tests measure performance characteristics of a cabinet's structure, construction and finish.
It is extremely important for you to realize several things. First, a cabinet manufacturer can manufacture several different lines of cabinets. Just because one line passes the test doesn't mean that the manufacturer is allowed to certify all of the cabinet lines he produces. Each line must pass the tests separately.
Also, the testing standards used establish minimum quality guidelines. This means that you might not be satisfied with the quality of a cabinet, even though it has passed all of the tests! I know that homeowners have a wide range of quality standards. Some people are perfectionists and demand perfection from every other human being. Perfection is a tough standard.
Remember that the quality standards can be exceeded. In other words, a high quality manufacturer can go way beyond the standards in an effort to produce a high quality cabinet. This will cost more, however, you may see that the value is there. When looking for cabinets, look at all the different lines and cost ranges. See what really distinguishes one line or manufacturer from another.
The Cabinet Tests
As I mentioned before, there are over 60 different tests which are used in the certification process. Following is a list of some of the major components that are tested.
Construction
Cabinet joints are checked. They look to see that they are tight.
Hinges are checked. The connection points between the hinge, cabinet, and doors are checked for tightness.
Doors are inspected for alignment. There must be no binding when doors operate.
Face-framed cabinets must have rigid frames.
Frameless cabinets (those with full overlay doors and drawers) must be constructed of thick enough material so as to be rigid.
The materials used in constructing the cabinets must be suitable to resist grease, water, steam, solvents, detergents, etc.
All exposed edges of plywood or composition board must be filled and sanded, edge banded or otherwise finished.
All exterior nail holes or staple holes must be filled.
Base cabinets (those that rest on the floor) must have a toe space. This space must be a minimum two inches deep and three inches high.
Structure
Cabinet shelves and bottoms are loaded to 15 pounds per square foot. After seven continuous days of loading, the cabinet is checked for deflection and separations.
Wall cabinets must be able to support 500 pounds without failure.
The cabinets are subjected to several different impact tests to see how they perform. These tests are designed to simulate everyday events which send objects crashing into cabinets.
Cabinet doors are tested for performance. They are opened and closed through 25,000 cycles. After this test is completed, the door must be in as good a shape as it was in the beginning. The hinges must not be loose and the door must still be in alignment.
Drawers are tested the same way. They are loaded with 15 pounds and opened and closed 25,000 times. They also must perform flawlessly at the conclusion of the 25,000 cycles.
Finish
One of the finish tests involves placing a door in a hotbox for 24 hours. The temperature inside the box is 120 degrees F and the humidity is 70 percent. At the conclusion, the finish must show no appreciable discoloration, no blisters and no checking.
A similar test is performed by subjecting the door to alternating hot and cold temperatures. After five cycles, the finish must not be flawed.
Finishes are tested by applying vinegar, 100-proof alcohol, mustard, lemon juice, etc. for one hour. The finish must survive unaffected. If minor blemishes are present, they must be able to be removed with ordinary polishing methods.
As you can see, the tests are tough. However, you and your kids may be able to dish out greater punishment. You simply need to use common sense prior to making a purchasing decision.
KCMA Certified Cabinet Manufacturers
For an up-to-date list of certified cabinet manufacturers, go to the "Directory of Certified Cabinet Manufacturers" page of the KCMA web site.
Important Note!
Many of the listed manufacturers make several different lines of cabinets. They may choose to have only one line or several lines certified. Be careful!! Insist on written documentation that the cabinet line you are purchasing has, in fact, been certified by the KCMA testing program.
Unscrupulous vendors have been known to use bait and switch techniques in selling. They may have KCMA cabinets on display, however, you may buy a slightly different cabinet or a line which is not certified.
Formica Repair with Tile
What is Involved?
To install ceramic tile in a countertop you first need a reason. Perhaps a hot pot scorched the surface or someone dropped a heavy frying pan that creates a large chip or ding. Deep scratches may be a good reason to consider tile.
The tile repair method is good looking and if you supply the labor, far less costly then buying and installing a new top. The supplies required to perform a ceramic tile inlay often cost less than $30.00.
The tools needed to accomplish this project are easy to acquire. Hopefully you will have a router, if not, just rent one for a few hours. You will need the following:
- A router with a straight 1/4 inch diameter carbide bit
- A framing square
- An accurate tape measure
- Hot glue gun
- Tile adhesive trowel
- Grout float
- Sponge
That is not an intimidating tool list by any means.
Get the Right Tile
When you select the tile for this repair project, look for one that is good looking and will also wear well. Try to avoid high gloss or shiny glazed tiles. These work fine on walls but not horizontal surfaces where things will slide across the tiles. You surely don't want your new tile to get scratched in a hurry. Select a flat tile or one that is designed as a floor tile. These have a special surface that resists scratches.
Also, look for tiles that look best with a 1/8 or 1/4 inch sanded grout joint. You can buy smaller 4x4 tiles that have rounded edges for this purpose. If you are lucky, you will find ones that are highly decorative. Take your time finding the tile. Visit many stores. All will have something different. Remember, you will be looking at these tiles for a while!
Border Tiles
Some tiles come with decorative border tile that actually frame a tile layout. See if you can find a tile that has these. The look is awesome.
Layout Lines
Once you have the tiles, it is time to lay them out. Obviously, you had to get a rough idea of how many to buy based upon the damaged area of the countertop. The key thing is to always work with full tile. Do whatever is necessary to make the repair area a square or a rectangle that uses full tiles. Cut tiles will stand out like a sore thumb.
Certain tiles are highly accurate in size but often some tiles can vary by as much as 1/16th inch. This may not seem like a lot, but it can make a difference if you are just using four tiles to make a square. This is why I like to use smaller tiles, even 2x2 inch tile if I can find them. The more grout lines in the repair area, the more places you can hide a small tile size defect.
Remember, a grout joint around the outer edges of the tile repair looks better. Butting tile against the top is tough to do and you will have problems at the rounded corners of the cut out.
Test Run
Once you think you know the size of your cutout, you are going to make a test cutout. This is absolutely essential as you only get one chance when you are working on your real countertop.
Get a scrap piece of plywood for this purpose. The first step is to determine the offset of the router. All routers have a plate at the bottom. When this perfectly round surface glides along a straightedge, the bit cuts a perfectly straight path a certain distance away from the straightedge. You need to figure out what this distance is.
Clamp or nail a straight piece of wood to the plywood. Mark the one edge carefully with a sharp pencil. Make a test pass with the router bit set at just 1/8 inch deep. Measure the offset. Use this dimension to expand your required opening on all four edges.
Set the router depth for 1/16th inch greater than the thickness of the tile. Proceed to make the test cutout by attaching wood strips to the plywood at your offset lines. I would actually make a box so that the router cannot travel beyond the desired cutout area.
Make your first cut all the way around the inside of the box to see if you get the desired rectangle or square. If you are successful, then just rout out an area big enough for one tile to check for the proper depth setting. If you are satisfied, then it is time to do the real thing.
Rounded Corners
The router will create rounded corners at each corner of the cutout. These are a must. I recommend a small 1/4 inch bit so that the radius of these corners is small. If you have multiple router bits you can change to a larger one to rout out the center portion of the cutout once the outer edge is created.
Waterproofing
The exposed particle board of the countertop must be protected from water. If you fail to do this, your repair area will blister and bubble in no time. Water based polyurethane works great for this. Be sure to coat the vertical sides of the cutout as well as the bottom. The sides are very important. Wipe off excess urethane from the laminate if you make a mess.
Adhesive
You can use the organic adhesive that looks like thick cake icing or cement based thinset. Thinset is better to use since it will not flex. If the repair area is large, and you set heavy pots on it, there is a remote chance tile may crack if you use the organic adhesives. The tile should set for several hours or overnight before you think about grouting.
Grout
Sanded grouts work fine if the grout line is 1/8 inch to 3/8 inch. I would never go larger than a 3/8 inch grout line. Try to go for 3/16 to 1/4 inch if possible. You can use a light colored grout with confidence. If the grout becomes stained or dirty in the future, just clean it with oxygen bleach. Oxygen bleach is color safe and can be found at www.stainsolver.com.
Tile Inlay Countertop Cross Section
The following illustrations should help clear up any confusion about what needs to happen to make the tile inlay work out. The most important aspect is making sure the cutout is the right size. You control the ease of this task by the tile you decide to use. Select a tile with tight grout lines and you could be in for a headache or two! The cross section below is scaled correctly for height but not for width. I have also left off the backsplash. Note the small 1/16th inch space for the adhesive under the tiles. The grout spacing needs to be the same on all four edges of each tile for the job to look right. Butting the tile against the top looks a little funny. A grout border seems to look better. Decorative tiles really are eye catching if you can find ones you like.
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Urethane Caulk Benefits
Steady Improvements
Solvent based caulks came under scrutiny by the EPA because they contain mineral spirits/solvents that contribute to air pollution as they dry and/or cure. The solvents that allow them to flow from the caulk tube evaporate into the air and create smog.
For years, the water based caulks have made steady improvements. The first generation ones were somewhat hard and had poor adhesion qualities. The water based caulks of today are awesome. They have better flexibility, better adhesion properties, and they adhere much better to smooth surfaces.
A water based caulk that has been around for nearly 40 years hidden back in the shadows is urethane caulk. Urethane caulks are exciting because they are similar in many respects to the popular silicone caulks. But, in my opinion, urethanes are better.
Urethane caulks will give you these benefits:
- Paintable
- High Tear Resistance
- Low Shrinkage
- Water Resistant
Urethane caulks adhere very well to vinyl siding, cedar wood, aluminum siding or gutters, and brick. The only thing they don't stick well to are the polycarbonate plastics. This plastic is the type used for those old fashioned bubble type skylights. Surely you don't have one of those, do you?
One of the reasons urethane caulks stick so well is that they actually bond to things by crosslinking on a molecular level. If you get some on your skin and don't wash it off quickly, it will be there for a few days until the oils from your skin finally loosen it.
Patience is Required
You will note that I said that urethane caulks are paintable. It is true, but you must allow them to cure before you paint them. The curing process can take up to 7 days. This is why you don't see many professional painters use them. They want to caulk and then be able to paint in a few hours. This is a shame since the urethane caulks perform much better than the acrylic caulks.
Ultraviolet (UV) Light Problems
Sunlight can degrade urethane caulks that are not painted. The caulks begin to chalk like old fashioned paints. They still bond well - they just don't end up looking so good. The urethane caulk that offers the best UV resistance is one that is made for marine use. OSI Sealants makes a marine urethane caulk.
You can stop UV degradation by just painting the caulk after it is cured. This is where patience pays off.
Warranties
Have you seen the caulks with the 20, 25, 30 and 50 year warranties? How can they make these claims? Well, most of it is marketing. I guess some of the manufacturers feel you will not keep the tubes, receipts, or even have a clue as to what you used when and if the caulk fails. I can tell you that the longer the warranty on the tube, they better the caulk is inside.
Preserving Caulk
How much caulk have you wasted trying to stick a nail in the end of the tip? I have sure wasted my share.
A top caulk chemist shared a secret with me that I have yet to verify. He said that if you wrap the end of an open caulk tube with Saran Wrap brand sheet plastic - a double layer mind you - and then tape it tightly, the caulk should not dry out for a long period of time.
Caulks can and do dry out in the tube. They have shelf lives of perhaps 12 to 18 months. Some manufacturers are beginning to put expiration dates on the tubes. Look for these when you buy caulk.
Related Articles: Urethane Caulk Companies, Cracks Need Urethane Caulk
Urethane Caulk Companies & Guns
Urethane Caulk Companies
The caulk displays I visited just had lots of silicone and acrylic caulks for sale. I even asked an experienced sales clerk at one home center if they had any urethane caulk. He said, "No way. You can only get that at automotive shops that install windshields." Well, while he was still talking I saw a case of urethane caulk. I said, "Look here, you DO have urethane caulk." The clerk was quite embarrassed.
If you call the folks at OSI Sealants, Inc. in Mentor, Ohio, they should be able to tell you who stocks their products. I am hoping someone close to you has it. If not, tell them you would like to buy it off of their website! Call 800-999-8920. You might find other brands of urethane caulks at large brickyards and commercial supply houses. Look in your Yellow Pages under Brick or Brick Supplies. Urethane caulks are used to seal joints in brickwork.
Here are the five types or brands of urethane caulk that OSI makes and the colors available:
- PL Polyurethane Concrete and Masonry Sealant - Gray
- PL Polyurethane Door, Window & Siding Sealant - White, Terratone, Cedar, Limestone, Sandtone
- PL Polyurethane Roof and Flashing Sealant - Black
- PL Polyurethane Concrete Crack Sealant - Limestone Gray
- PL Polyurethane Marine Adhesive Sealant - Ultra White
The other companies that make urethane caulk are:
- 3M Company - 800-234-8068
- Tremco - 800-321-7906 -- Their brand name urethane caulk is Velcum.
- DAP - 800-543-3840 -- You may have a hard time finding their urethane caulk in regular stores!
- Bostik - 414-774-2250 -- Several urethane caulks under Chem-Calk.
- Macklanburg - Duncan - 800-654-8454 -- Their brand name urethane caulk is Sika.
Professional Caulk Guns
There is a huge difference between the caulk gun I'll bet you have and a high quality one. Here is how you can tell if you have a low quality gun: #1 Price - if it cost less than $4.00 it is probably a loser. #2 If you pull back the plunger rod and squeeze the handle less than 15 times before the rod slides all the way into the gun, you have an also ran.
Professional guns have much greater force when you squeeze the handle, like 3M's Professional Caulking Gun. It takes 45 or more full handle squeezes to get the rod to fully push into the gun. This extra squeezing gives you much greater flow control when you caulk. OSI sells a pro gun that retails for $13. It is product number 92012. Call 800-624-7767 and ask for customer service. Hyde Tools also sells a similar caulk gun. Many quality paint stores sell Hyde Tool scrapers, putty knives, etc.
Related Articles: Urethane Caulk Benefits, Cracks Need Urethane Caulk
Masking Tape: Un-Du
Tape Revolution
Masking tape is a very interesting industry. For nearly 50 years, it just sort of grew without many major improvements or changes to the product. Rubber-based adhesives were applied to a paper strip and you have tape. The trouble is, the tape didn't play well with all of the different surfaces out there. As typically happens, the light bulb went off in someone's head and a new family of tapes was born.
Acrylic Adhesives
Did you know that standard wall paint is simply colored glue? It is a liquid that dries and sticks to surfaces. That is not much different than most other glues. The primary adhesive or glue in paints is an acrylic resin. Acrylic resins are durable and they also are flexible. These are qualities you might find desirable if you were a tape manufacturer.
The trick is to modify the chemistry of the acrylic adhesives to do a wide range of tasks. In fact, that is the message that you need to know. There is no one masking tape that is perfect for all jobs. You need an assortment of tapes to be prepared for all possible challenges.
The tape company chemists simply blend and modify the acrylic adhesives to develop tapes that exhibit different characteristics.
The Players
I am quite certain that there are different masking tape manufacturers out there. But I was only able to find two that are really players in the residential marketplace.
The first and foremost company happens to be the leader in tapes of all sorts. It is the 3M Company.
If my notes are accurate, a scientist at 3M actually invented masking tape back in the 1920's.
3M, as you might expect, has a full line of specialty masking tapes. Not only do they have a tape for every possible job, but the products come in all sorts of different sizes. If you saw their full line of products, you would be impressed to say the least.
The other major player happens to be a company called Henkel Consumer Adhesives. You might more readily recognize them by their logo of the yellow duck with the painters hat. Duck tape, get it?
Read the Labels
Some of the tapes you see may look identical but they indeed are not. Most have very specific purposes, and I highly recommend that you read the labels carefully before you buy. Be sure the tape fits your need and make certain that you can remove it from the work surface in the specified amount of time.
If you are in doubt about tape dwell time or temperature conditions, always call the tape manufacturer's technical help line. Look inside the roll of tape. You will often find this information with you all the time. That was a smart use of space - the inside of the tape roll!
Mildew-Proof Caulk Manufacturers
The list that follows was compiled several years ago, when this column was first written. We now think that the Federal Trade Commission believes that these "mildew-proof" claims are not realistic. You may not be able to find these mildew-proof products.
Mildew-Proof Caulk Manufacturers
The next time you get ready to purchase caulk for your bathroom or kitchen, look closely at the labeling. I am quite certain you will see the word mildew. Look again. My guess is that you will frequently see the word "resistant" just after the word "mildew". Mildew-resistant does NOT mean mildew-proof - plain and simple.
Virtually every caulk manufacturer incorporates a certain amount of mildewcides in their caulk products. These mildewcides are a costly item and if you want to make more profit, it makes sense to use as little as possible in the caulk. The big problem is that many, if not all of the mildewcides that are used are water soluble. This means that they can be dissolved and removed from the caulk by water. It just so happens that caulk is used to stop water infiltration, so contact with water is often a daily occurrence.
To make a mildew-proof caulk, a manufacturer needs to purchase the best mildewcides and use a significant amount in each tube of caulk. The strategy is to use more mildewcide in the caulk than can be dissolved by water over the projected life span of the caulk seam. Just about every manufacturer makes a mildewproof caulk. Here are several of the major players. Remember, look for the words "mildew-proof", not mildew-resistant.
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Multi-Colored Mildew-Proof Caulk
Would you like mildew-proof caulk in a color other than white? Polyseamseal makes it. They also specially blend colors to match Kohler Plumbing fixtures.
If you see "Kohler" brand caulks look closely on the back label and you will see the Polyseamseal name. The colors are prefect matches! You can use them for non- Kohler fixtures as well.
Related Articles: Caulk Removal, Create Caulk Joints, Mildew-Proof Caulks
Create Caulk Joints
Creating the Perfect Caulk Joint Every Time
On a recent trip, I observed a caulk joint in an airport bathroom. The person who applied it - I am convinced - used his big toe to smooth the joint. There was caulk 3/4 of an inch on either side of the 3/16 inch wide crack!
Getting the Tools Set Up
All too often people start to caulk with just the caulk tube and the caulk gun. They cut the tip and get going. Big mistake! If you are using a water based caulk, you need to have a bucket of clean water, some rags, a grout sponge and possibly some paper towels. If you are using silicone caulk, you will just need lacquer thinner and some rags.
The water and/or lacquer thinner are important. These are the solvents needed to wash away the smears from either side of the caulk joint once it has been tooled.
Suggested Tool List
Cutting the Tube Tip
Perhaps the largest cause of caulk joint messes can be traced to improperly sized caulk tube tip cuts. The caulk tube nozzle needs to be trimmed well if you want to prevent a mess. I like to cut the tip at a 30 to 45 degree angle.
You simply need to match the size of the tip opening to the crack you are caulking. I trim a little at a time and try to get the opening of the nozzle about 1/16th inch smaller than the width of the crack to be caulked. If the nozzle opening is wider than the crack, you will deliver too much caulk to the crack. ALWAYS cut the tip a little bit at a time. Enlarge the hole by shaving off additional layers of the tip. Don't hack away at it.
Deep Cracks Need Backer Rods
Professional caulkers use foam backer rods to fill deep cracks. The general rule of thumb is cracks over 1/4 inch deep must be filled first with foam backer rods. If you do not do this the caulk seam will most likely experience excessive shrinkage.
The backer rods can be tough to locate. The best place to find them is a store that sells masonry supplies and concrete supplies to professional contractors. Look in your Yellow Pages under "Concrete / Masonry Supplies".
A Good Gun
Smooth seams don't happen by accident. Spend the money and get a caulking gun that has a good trigger linkage. Don't buy the cheapest model. You need one that will have a good variable pressure trigger. The good guns have a thumb lever that quickly shuts off the caulk when you have finished the joint.
Just recently I began using a professional gun to apply caulk. For 25 years I had been using the same type you probably have. As soon as I switched to the good gun, my joint quality improved 50 percent! The good guns give you fantastic control as you inject cracks with caulk. Inferior guns push the caulk out too rapidly with each handle squeeze.
Apply Slowly
When you start to caulk don't get too much flowing at once. You want just enough caulk to flow out to fill the crack and hump up ever so slightly. Practice on some scrap lumber first.
Caulk Several Feet and Then Stop!
Apply caulk to several feet of crack and then stop. Use your finger to gently tool the joint. If lots of excess caulk starts to build in front of your finger, take the excess and deposit it in a paper towel.
If you are using water based caulks, get the grout sponge slightly wet and lightly wipe down the joint. Rotate the sponge to expose a clean face or edge. Lightly stroke the joint until you are satisfied with the appearance.
If you use silicone caulks you can't use water. You saturate a rag with lacquer thinner to tool the joint. BE SUPER CAREFUL! Lacquer thinner is highly flammable, explosive, etc. NO open flames, cigarettes, etc. are allowed while caulking. Burn the rags immediately after use.
If you live in Arizona and are doing exterior caulking with an acrylic caulk, it can skin over (dry) so fast it will make your head spin. I have had it happen to me here in Cincinnati, Ohio, in the summertime. When you think this might happen, just caulk a short stretch of crack and tool it. The caulk you apply next will stick readily to the freshly tooled caulk.
Strike the Joint Multiple Times
Do not use too much water or thinner. You can actually dissolve and ruin the caulk. The trick is to make multiple light passes with the sponge or rag. If you practice this technique, you will see how effective it really is. Each pass takes out just a little more caulk and/or removes the smeared part from the adjoining surfaces. Masonry surfaces are too coarse to respond to this type of treatment. When you caulk these joints you must go slowly and tool carefully. You can't rinse these joints!
Mildew-Proof Caulks
Disappearing Chemicals
My research for this column was fascinating. I talked with two caulk scientists. I found out that caulks contain mildewcides and fungicides. These chemicals happen to be water soluble. This means that water can dissolve them.
I also found out that even though caulk appears smooth to the naked eye, it is actually a somewhat porous surface where mildew spores can readily hide. Couple this with the fact that many body soaps contain ingredients that are food for mildew and you often have lots of water where you have caulk and you end up with perfect growth and survival conditions for mildew.
Caulks that mildew quickly contain small amounts of the mildewcides. Mildew-proof caulks contain lots of these chemicals. The intention is to add enough mildewcide such that it takes years for it to completely wash away from the caulk. The manufacturers hope that it is time to re-caulk before the caulk actually begins to turn black. I don't have any problems with that thought process!
Getting Caulk to Stick
Caulks are basically a first cousin to adhesives. Caulk, adhesive and paint chemistry is very similar. Stop and think. All three things basically 'stick' to something. If you want caulk to be waterproof, you need to make sure that the surfaces to be caulked are clean. They need to be dry.
It is usually not a problem to get caulk to stick to a crack. If a caulked joint does fail, the trouble can often be traced to dirt or dust that was not removed prior to the application of the caulk. Take time out and always clean the areas to be caulked.
Caulk Removers
If you visit a large home center or a major paint or hardware store with a good caulk department, you will often find caulk removers. These products work well if you follow instructions.
Often the largest hurdle is removing as much of the caulk as possible - with a razor or some other tool. The more caulk you can scrape away before applying the remover the better off you are.
You can often find caulk removers for each type of caulk. However, the tougher the caulk - like silicones - the harder they are to remove. One of my readers wrote to me just before this bulletin was written - a woman from Michigan. She reported to me that she had great success with a silicone caulk remover made by the 3M Corporation. I have not used it so I can't tell you what I think about it. The Michigan reader told me that she used it to "...get silicone caulk off our fiberglass trailer and it worked GREAT!" She convinced me!
Preventing Mildew in Baths
An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure it is said. This is true in bathrooms with respect to the war on mildew. You can reduce mildew growth in tubs and showers if you try the following things:
Keep the tub and shower surfaces clean. This means that you should wash them once or twice a month, not once or twice a year! The soap and body oils that come off of you are mildew food!
Consider using a squeegee in the tub or shower. Just after you turn off the water and before you jump from the bathing area, use it to remove 90 percent of the water from the tub and shower area. This water will go down the drain instead of evaporating into the air during the rest of the day. High moisture air content within the bathroom helps the mildew to live.
Leave the shower door or curtain OPEN after you leave the bathroom. Also leave the bath door open so that air flow can readily dry tub and shower surfaces. You want the mildew to die of thirst!
Related Articles: Caulk Removal, Create Caulk Joints, Mildew-Proof Caulk Manufacturers