Part I – How To Build a Screen Porch – Frame and Square the Floor

hodges bay antigua

You're looking at Hodges Bay through the screened porch where I spent lots of time working and sleeping! It was so glorious to be right next to the water. Photo credit: sleepy Tim Carter

Let's Go! It's Time to Work!

So - you made it through the building department maze. I know you are tired and your enthusiasm has been dampened, but let's get going. Now, before you get too far ahead, you need to realize that some things are going to be done out of order. In other words, you really have to think ahead. For example: we are going to partially frame the porch floor BEFORE we dig the foundation piers. We are going to possibly run some electric wiring BEFORE we even install the porch floor. We are definitely going to paint many pieces of wood an all sides and edges BEFORE we install them. I know this may slow down your momentum, but you will actually save time and money by doing these things.

A Simple Square or Rectangle

I sure hope you are going to design a screened porch that is somewhat easy to build. Squares and rectangles are the way to go for the DIY'r. Building the screened porch will be so easy if you just get the porch floor level and square. Both are easy to accomplish.

I assume that you are going to build a simple screened porch using a wood flooring assembly resembling a regular deck. This is the best way to go for a DIY'r. The first thing to do is to attach the band board or ledger board to the house. This board will support the floor joists (using joist hangers) as they project away from the house. Your local building code will likely address the attachment method. Here in Cincinnati, we have to use threaded through bolts. These are bolts that have a nut and washer on one end. Lag bolts, which are just giant screws, and simple nails can actually fail. A band board can pull away from the house if the nails loosen or the lag bolts gets over tightened and strips out. Through bolts require more work to put in but they are worth it. Be sure you layout on the band board BEFORE you attach it to the house where your floor joists are going to be! Otherwise, you may have a joist land on top of or next to a bolt head. If you really want to do the job right, determine where the interior floor joists are. Make your floor joist become extensions of the interior joists. This way the bolts can fall in between the centers of the joists on both sides of the wall.

Now, you must attach the two end floor joists to the band board. This will require you to hammer flat one side of a joist hanger. This flattened edge is nailed to the side or end of the band board. Be sure to use the proper joist hanger nails! Do not use roofing nails. Attach your outer rim joist or band board to complete your square or rectangle. To support the box in mid air, simply tack on some 2x4's to the joists. These 2x4's drop to the ground and can be placed on top of some scraps of wood so they do not sink into the soil. Try to get the box as level as possible.

Making it Square

If you want the roof, walls, and everything else to work out just fine, the floor of your porch had better be square. Square to a builder means that each corner is a 90 degree angle.

It is easy to square something. As long as the wood floor joists of your square or rectangle are straight (no bows), it will be easy to square. In addition, the opposing sides of the square or rectangle must be the exact same length. In other words a square box already has equal sides (10 x 10 x 10 x 10 feet). A rectangle would be say 12 feet on two sides and the other two would be 16 feet.

If you have accomplished this, take a tape measure and see what the diagonals measure. In other words, stretch a tape across the box corners to make two triangles. When the two diagonals equal one another, your box or rectangle is perfectly square. Brace the box to keep it square. You can figure out the diagonals mathematically if you choose. Just use the Pythagorean theorem (a2 + b2 = c2). The first way I mentioned works great. That is how we would square up walls we built every day in the field.

Read on to "Part II - How to Build a Screen Porch", where we tackle the "bones" of your structure.

CLICK or TAP HERE to get FREE QUOTES from local companies that can build your porch, if you just want to sit back and relax.

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Velcro Screen Manufacturer

Velcro Screen Manufacturer

As I researched this topic, I struggled to find more than one reliable company that makes the Velcro screens. You may have more luck than I did, and if so, I would love to hear from you. But, I feel very comfortable in telling you about the Canadian Company that ships screens to the USA each and everyday.

They are:

Screen Design
% Weso Products Inc.
14 Victoria Ave.
Smiths Falls, Ontario K7A 2P1
Canada
888-290-8277 or 613-283-1947

These folks have a superb system that allows you to take your own measurements and then install the screens on your own. The old problem of getting screens tight is gone forever with this system. Why? Because you stretch the screens yourself and the Velcro strips hold the screens in place.

The other cool thing is that you can span fairly wide expanses with their product. I believe, you can go up to 8 feet, but ask them to be sure.

The Velcro system allows you to roll the screens up and out of the way should you want to create a temporary open air pavilion. I really like this feature.

In addition, you can also buy clear plastic sheets to enclose the space as the weather gets cold. Install a heat source and perhaps the room can be used nine months out of the year!

I urge you to contact this company and get some information. You will not be disappointed with the product. Their turn around time is very good and you will have a screened in porch in no time. Visit their website and check out all of the photos of completed jobs. Perhaps it will stimulate an idea for your own porch.

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Soil

stumps removed and slash

This is the view looking from the road across the rough driveway cut. On the right side of the photo in the shade is a giant pile of slash - tree branches - that will be removed next week. Copyright 2018 Tim Carter

Geology and Soils

We interact with the Earth everyday. We really don't have much choice since we must move about on the face of this glorious planet. However, most of us pay little attention to the ground we walk or build upon. This can be a big mistake. The soil under your feet can change dramatically in type, quality, strength, fertility in as little as 500 feet.

Bedrock Geology & Soil

Soil in the simplest sense is a combination of small weathered pieces of rock, organic material, water, and air. The small pieces of rock determine, for the most part, the overall makeup of the soil.

For example, here in Cincinnati, we have 3 to 4 primary soil groups. These are directly related to the bedrock rock formations. Two of these formations and some of the glacial rock and soil material cause massive land slippage headaches around town. In fact, Cincinnati has the highest per capita damage per household in America due to landslides! I'll bet you didn't know that!

I was fortunate to learn all about this in college since I was a geology major. The trouble is, 99.95 percent of the home buyers in Cincinnati don't have a clue as to the dangerous soil conditions that face them everywhere.

You can almost always obtain free information about the soil conditions in your area from your county agricultural offices or building departments. Even counties that have lost all of their farmland to development have soil information. You simply have to make one or two phone calls to the county headquarters. Be persistent until you find the soil office.

Once you locate this division of your local government, ask for a county soil map. Usually these are books that are filled to the brim with useful information. The books often contain aerial photos which help you locate your street and often your house! The photos contain lines which create boundaries between the different soil types. The soil in a given zone has a symbol. You use this symbol throughout the book to find out all types of different positive and negative qualities about the soil.

For example, the actual description of the soil type tells you how thick the soil might be (in other words, how deep before you hit solid rock), color, depth to certain features within the soil such as perched watertables, etc. Deeper within the book, you get information pertaining to septic system suitability, strength of the soil for roadways and building, shrink/swell characteristics, and much more.

The best part is that this soil map/book is almost always free! Our tax dollars pay for it to be developed and distributed. Don't buy land without one!

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Lot Selection

NH lot clearedSelecting a New or Existing Building Lot

When my wife and I purchased our first house 22 years ago, I didn't give one ounce of consideration to the lot that it sat upon. I simply walked into the house to see if it was beyond repair. I was oblivious to the 15 steps it took to get to the front door. I didn't know exactly where the property lines were. There was a fence along the two sides and the rear, but I couldn't tell you if it belonged to the house or to the next door neighbors.

My wife and I were young and just out of college. We had no experience in dealing with real estate. Playing Monopoly had been my only previous exposure to deeds, mortgages and utilities! Let me tell you, there is no comparison to the real thing!

Now Tim is helping his daughter start the lot selection for her new home. Click here to read about this adventure.

"Real" Estate

When you own land, you have a real asset. More often than not, land tends to appreciate in value. Improvements upon land such as houses, barns, fences, etc. all tend to lose value immediately after construction due to depreciation. That is, they immediately start to wear out.

Of course, some building lots are worth more than others. They will appreciate faster. Why? Because the lots that grow in value at the fastest rate tend to have the highest number of positive qualities. A lot may have a great view. It may be in a desirable neighborhood. A lot may have mature trees. There are numerous positive qualities. Some of the qualities are subjective. Things that appeal to you may not appeal to me. Most of the qualities are objective. Things like utilities, zoning, flooding, etc. are a concern to just about everyone.

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Drainage

! ! ! See Author's Notes at Bottom of Column ! ! !

Make a Model Of Your Lot

If you take some scrap cardboard and trace the different patterns of a topo map onto the cardboard and then cut out each pattern, you can make a 3D model of a building lot or piece of land. You take the cut out patterns and stack them on top of one another. One of the things that becomes very apparent when you do this is the fact that topographic lines that are spaced closely together indicate a steep hill or a cliff in reality. When you build a model, you will find this out in a hurry! If you have kids and are looking for a neat science project, see if their teacher will let you create a 3D model from a topographic map.

Coastal Lots

If you live or are relocating to a low lying coastal area, you know that the land is usually very flat. Try to see if you can raise up your house 12 or 18 inches from the normal level that everyone else builds. Have some extra dirt brought in and use this to taper the soil away from your foundation out towards your lot lines. The end result will be a very gentle slope that offers you lots of protection if a heavy rain floods all of your neighbors' houses.

 Drainage solution- trench drain.

Drainage solution- trench drain.

Soggy Lots

If you have a swampy or soggy lot now and need relief, then you need to look at this drawing.It is a plan or side view drawing of a linear French drain. These simple drainage devices can dry out wet soil in a big hurry.

Keep in mind that water likes to take the path of least resistance. It will flow through gravel much more quickly than through soil. As water migrates from the soil into these trench drains, the water is wicked from adjacent soil towards the drains. The net effect is that your lot dries up.

The backyard of my lot was a swamp each spring. I installed a single linear French drain on the high side of my lot to intercept all of the water that was coming from the land above me. It worked instantly and continues to keep my lot dry as a bone while my neighbor's lot above me is soggy and wet! I keep telling them to install a linear French drain, but they don't seem interested. What was that saying about leading a horse to water?

Drainage issues are critical and they can cost you huge dollars after you move in. It takes some detective work and some thought to figure out what will happen after you move in. Study the land and look at existing subdivisions to see how land forms and shapes affect drainage.


Author's Notes:

You may wonder if my advice is worth anything. Well, read what Jim Sanders wrote to me when he was at the end of his rope:

"Hi, I just wanted to write to give you the results of my "Trench Drain". I have had a wet crawlspace for 15 years. Water would fill the crawlspace at times, so we actually had to drill weep holes at the base so that it would enter the basement and eventually, the sump pump.

I have tried everything. Several contractors said that the only thing we could do was to bring the water into the house via drainage tile and let it enter the sump pump. That would work, but because I live on a 6' elevation, there is no reason that I should have water problems. It became like clockwork...when it rained, we would rush home from the lake or wherever we were vacationing so that we could be prepared to start the backup generator, in case the power failed. We even had our alarm company put a sump alarm on our system, so they could notify us if we had a power failure. Battery backup was not an option, because sometimes we lose power for days and during any rain, our sump would run every 7 minutes...just like clockwork.

I found your site and read the article on the trench or French drain. At first, it sounded a bit like "holistic healing" to me. I failed to understand why a 2 ft. deep trench, 4 ft. away from the house would do any good. How could this simple thing correct an extreme water problem that has plagued me for years, cracked my foundation, settled my garage floor and ruined almost every vacation?

The Linear French Drain trench running from the house. PHOTO CREDIT: Jim Sanders

The Linear French Drain trench running from the house. PHOTO CREDIT: Jim Sanders

I decided "what the heck". I had to dig by hand using a trenching spade and a pick-ax, because the builder back-filled our property with brick and blacktop. It took quite a bit of time. Because the ground level varies so much on that side of the house, I was not able to achieve exactly 2 ft. deep. It varied from 18" to 30" in spots, but the slope was downhill. The trench is about 80 ft. long. At times, I thought about filling it all in, because I just didn’t believe that it would work.

I stoned it, put tile in, and filled it with #1 round stone. I socked the pipe just for safety measure and I also used geotextile fabric on top, so I could cover with dirt and grass. I also ordered some clay and pitched from the house to the drain.

After a short rain, water is running away from the house. PHOTO CREDIT: Jim Sanders

After a short rain, water is running away from the house. PHOTO CREDIT: Jim Sanders

Result? For the last month, we have had 7 or 8 torrential rains, the worst of which was last night. It rained so hard, that our lawn washed out in spots because of the high clay content. Our sump pump, that normally ran every 7 minutes during and after rain, has not turned on for 4 weeks. The silt at the bottom of the sump well is now dry and cracking. Our crawlspace has not shown a trace of water or even moisture.

Since I couldn’t see correcting the foundation cracks or the garage floor settling and tilting until I corrected the problem's source, I waited to see if the trench drain worked first.

This week, I had a company come in and perform sort of a "mud-jacking" technique on the garage floor, which worked perfectly. Also, during the past few weeks, I parged the cracks in the foundation.

A dry sump pump. PHOTO CREDIT: Jim Sanders

A dry sump pump. PHOTO CREDIT: Jim Sanders

I just wanted you to know how this worked. I stressed for many years over this issue and the solution was nowhere near as difficult as I thought it would be.

As a side note, I went to the end of the drain tile during a hard rain to see what was happening. Water was running out of the drain tile in about the same exact volume that it previously ran out of the weep holes in my crawlspace. This winter will be interesting, because last year, the ground next to the house was so saturated that during a thaw, my sump would run constantly. I'm guessing that the ground between the trench and the house will probably be drier now going into this winter."

- Jim Sanders, Upstate area - New York

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local drainage expert contractors.

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Topographic Maps

topographic map

Learning to understand a topographic map that shows elevations will be worth the investment of time.

Back in the early 1990's we had a huge 24 hour rainstorm in my village. I had a rain gauge set up and it indicated that we received about 5.75 inches of rain in that 24 hour period. We had widespread flooding of many houses in my village. Many people couldn't believe how small creek beds that usually only have a trickle of water in them turned into virtual rivers.

Numerous houses had extensive basement flooding caused by streams that overflowed their banks and crushed garage doors and even basement doors in a matter of moments.

The point of the story is that just about everyone of these people never thought they would have a problem. Their houses and building lots didn't seem to be in a danger zone. After the storm and flooding were over, it was obvious that the damaged houses were in low spots or near the bottom of shallow valleys. It took a 100 year storm to point out the problem. This is why you need to think ahead when you buy a lot.

Bathtub Ring

Have you ever notice rings inside of bathtubs? If the tub drains slowly, you will see a number of rings that stair step down toward the bottom of the tub. Each ring represents the level of the water within the tub at a given moment in time. The ring also represents a perfectly level line as standing water in a tub, bottle, pond or lake is level due to the forces of gravity.

You can use this same principal to help you understand the funny crooked, curved and squiggly lines you see on a topographic map. Each of these lines is like a ring in your bathtub. They represent a layer of land or earth that is the exact same height above sea level.

Topographic maps allow you to get an idea of the three dimensional (3D) configuration of the land while looking at a two dimensional piece of paper. It is that simple.

topo map 100 Swain Road

This is a topo map from Google Maps. You just select the Terrain option from the menu to see it. Note the red arrow pointing to the gray lines that have numbers on them. Any point on that line is the same distance above sea level as the number.

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Recessed Lighting Manufacturers

Recessed Light Manufacturers

Following is a list of some of the leaders in the recessed lighting industry. They have lights that span virtually any residential use you can imagine. If you live in a major metropolitan area, they will be represented by numerous lighting retailers. If you have lighting showrooms like those here in Cincinnati, you will find abundant literature, brochures, etc. at these retail lighting centers. Use the following names as an aid to identifying companies who have a track record in making these types of fixtures.

Finally, do not buy cheap fixtures. Make sure the UL label is clearly stamped on the fixture. Absolutely follow the installation instructions to the letter! Recessed lights often require a special type of plastic coated wire (Romex) that has a high temperature rating. If you use some old wiring from your basement, and/or wiring salvaged from a job it may be unsafe! It may not be rated at 90 degrees Centigrade. This is the temperature rating the wire must have. UL approved plastic coated wire that is stamped NMB is what you should look for. The letter B is the designation that indicates it can withstand temperatures up to 90 degrees Centigrade. This is vitally important. Be sure to look for this lettering on your wire.

  • Capri Lighting
  • Cooper Lighting - Halo
  • Juno Lighting
  • Lightolier
  • Prescolite
  • Progress Lighting
  • Thomas Lighting

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Recessed Lighting Design

kitchen with 3 levels of lights

There are three levels of light in this kitchen, four if you count the bright lights under the stove hood! Photo credit: Tim Carter

Wide Selection/Uses

What happens if you want to add recessed light in a finished ceiling? No problem! They make special housings that will slide in a hole you cut. What about low voltage recessed lights? They have those as well. What about sloped ceilings? Ever been in a room and have those lights aiming at your eyes? Well, that is not a problem anymore. You can purchase special housing that aims the bulb directly to the floor!

Want a super energy efficient recessed light that doesn't leak air? You can get those as well. A regular recessed light that is covered with insulation can leak up to 2.6 million cubic feet of air per year! That can equate to nearly 1 million BTU's of energy loss. Check out the air tight fixtures.

Recessed Light Suggested Uses and Installation Tips

I have used recessed lighting in just about every imaginable place you can think of in a residential house. My customers and myself have come up with some very imaginative uses. Many of them you might be familiar with.

Exterior Uses

Any covered porch is an excellent candidate for recessed lighting. It doesn't matter if the style of the house is contemporary or traditional. Of course, contemporary styling makes the choice a natural. But let's say you are building a period Victorian house. How would recessed lighting look? Well, consider using it on a covered front porch to wash the front porch walls with light to highlight the front door or ornate paint detailing for people who pass by your house when it is dark. Just like you might use landscape lighting to light trees to show them off, use recessed lights to wash your house with light.

Place recessed lights in soffits, cantilevered floors, etc. to illuminate or highlight features of your house. You will be surprised how striking the effect really is!

Interior Uses

I really like using recessed lighting in conjunction with other forms of light in rooms. I have already told you about my kitchen. Think of using recessed lighting in a study or den to create general mood lighting around the perimeter of the ceiling. If you plan your furniture layout and choices, you can place lights centered on these items to illuminate them fully. By using soft, low wattage bulbs you create a very soft low lighting mood. High intensity lights can be used at workstations or reading chairs.

Modernistic dining rooms offer a great place for recessed lighting. You can tray (layer) a ceiling and include recessed lights in the lower tray. The center of the ceiling can contain a chandelier as well. The recessed lights can be strategically placed to highlight furniture, paintings or decorative items. They can be turned on independently of the chandelier to create a glow in the room. Dimmer controls work great for this effect.

Recessed lights work great above tubs, showers, whirlpools, etc. I always installed recessed lights over the mirrors in my customers bathrooms. They could control these lights from a different switch that controlled the wall mounted decorative fixtures above or along side the mirrors.

Recessed lighting is often the safest choice for the interior of closets. Many house fires have been caused by objects (falling from shelves) coming into contact with unshielded bulbs from surface mounted fixtures.

Installation Tips

Have you ever installed a recessed light? If so you probably did it this way: open box, determine location, nail up fixture, begin wiring process, take muscle relaxant for strained neck muscles!

My electrician taught me the trick to avoid the muscle relaxants! It's simple. All you need to do is wire the fixture on the ground or floor level before you nail it in place. No more strained neck muscles. No more dropped wire nuts. You will be surprised how much easier this is.

If you are a DIY'r, please take the time to read the specific installation guidelines. If you didn't get any with the light, call the company and ask for some! If wired improperly, recessed lights can be hazardous. Do not underestimate the amount of heat a 150 watt bulb can produce!

Above all, please get your job inspected by a certified electrical inspector. People die every day in this country from electrical-related house fires. Don't you be one of them.

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Recessed Lighting Safety

Insulation + Lights = Fire?

Have you ever tried to change a light bulb that has been on for several minutes? Did you burn your fingers? Light bulbs get extremely hot. The surface temperature of a bulb can be hundreds of degrees.

This type of heat can cause fires. In fact, many residential fires have resulted from improperly installed or modified recessed light fixtures. This is especially true in older homes that have old recessed light fixtures. In these situations, homeowners have mistakenly covered older fixtures with insulation. This insulation traps the heat created by the bulb. This heat, in turn, can either melt the insulation on the electrical wiring or ignite combustible materials near the fixture.

This insulation craze, created by the energy crisis in the late 70's, caused the Underwriters Laboratories (UL) to respond. This is the organization that is responsible for the many improvements to our electrical fixtures, wiring and code requirements.

The individuals at UL mandated that recessed lights be equipped with a safety override switch within the fixture. This switch would sense when the light fixture was trapping too much heat. In such an instance, the safety switch would simply turn the light off automatically. Once the fixture cooled down, the light would then turn itself on.

Leaky Lights

But, this wasn't the total answer. The popularity of vaulted ceilings in the 80's created another problem. Recessed lights were installed in roof rafter spaces where insulation was absolutely necessary. However, the code and the lighting manufacturers said not to put insulation within several inches of the fixtures. As you can imagine, this caused major problems.

Every recessed light location was like a hole in your ceiling! Heat would leak out of the fixture as cold air blasted into your house. Many homeowners became disenchanted with recessed lights.The honeymoon was over.

In Contact (IC) Fixtures

Once again, the UL people responded. They developed guidelines that allowed manufacturers to build recessed light fixtures which could be completely covered and smothered with insulation. These fixtures carry an IC designation. The fixture will actually be labeled as such. This is your safety guarantee.

However, these lights often come with a slight penalty. They tend to use lower (less than 100 watt) wattage light bulbs. This is because the insulation covering or abutting the fixture will trap way too much heat from the higher temperature bulbs.

These IC fixtures are also equipped, as long as they are UL approved, with the thermal protection switches. So, if you install a bulb that is too powerful, the light will cycle on and off.

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Recessed Lighting – Hidden Lighting

kitchen with 3 levels of lights

There are three levels of light in this kitchen, four if you count the bright lights under the stove hood! Photo credit: Tim Carter

My wife designed the light layout in our kitchen. It was my job to install the lights. As I nailed up the 12 or so recessed light housings that she selected, I whined the whole time, saying that there would be too much light. After all, we had a decorative hanging fixture that would illuminate our island. Furthermore, there was a paddle fan over the kitchen sink that also had a light fixture.

Well, I was wrong. The recessed light fixtures created a ring of brilliant light over all the counterspaces. They compliment the softer light from the hanging fixtures. Kathy was right once again!

Hidden Light

The widespread use of recessed lights occurred in the 1950's. The contemporary housing trends of the 50's and 60's dictated that all aspects of a house were sleek. This meant that surface mounted fixtures were out and hidden, recessed lights that were smooth with the ceilings were in.

The advantages of recessed lights have stayed with us. The types of fixtures and the trims, however, have come a long way. The original recessed fixtures were very simplistic. There were very few trims available.

CLICK or TAP HERE to get FREE QUOTES from local companies that can help with your lighting needs.

Recessed Light Parts

Recessed lights are somewhat different than an ordinary light fixture. A recessed light has three primary components: the housing, the bulb and the trim. The housing is the main part of the light. It is installed early in a job, before the plaster or drywall is installed.

Bulbs for recessed lights are very specific. They do not resemble ordinary light bulbs, except for the treads. They are cone shaped and often come as spot or flood lights. Very often the inside of the glass surface is coated with a reflective material so that the light created by the filament is directed down, not sideways.

The trim is the part of the light that you actually see. There are a multitude of designs, shapes, finishes, etc. that are now available. Some of the most popular trims used today are those designated as spectacular. These trims have a highly polished interior surface which helps to reflect as much light as possible down into the room.

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