Headers, Beams and Wall Sensors

Posted on by Tim Carter

Learn More About Headers and Beams!

How would you like a booklet that contains a series of size selection and allowable load tables for choosing Southern Pine headers and beams? The Southern Pine Council has this booklet available FREE on their website for download in PDF format. Go to their Publications Depot and look under Southern Pine Use Guide.

Beam and Column Illustration

Following is a very simple cross section showing how you insert a wooden beam into a frame wall. The wood beam is supported by two 2x4s on each end. These are typically called jack studs and are nailed directly to a king stud that runs from the bottom plate continuous to the top plate. Note how the column on the right side of the wall does not fall on top of a floor joist below. In that situation wood blocking is added between the steel I- beam below and the subfloor under the column on the right. Most beams under six foot total span only require a single 2x4 for support at each end. Beams over six feet need two 2x4s at each end. Always verify this requirement with your inspector!

simple cross section showing how you insert a wooden beam into a frame wall

Electronic Sensing Device

You are thinking of remodeling ... What lurks behind that plaster wall? Wouldn't it be nice if you had the X-ray vision of Superman? Well, you don't - but you can have the next best thing.

The Zircon Company has a full line of sensors and scanners, some for the homeowner and others for the seasoned pro. Check out the scanner page on their website! One product has a very cool LCD screen and an audible tone that alerts you to studs, joists, pipes, electric wires, etc.

The tool can scan through 1.5 inches of plaster and can find metal up to three inches deep. It operates on a simple nine volt battery. This is a well made tool. It can save you from an expensive plumbing or electrical repair!

Related Articles:  Removing a Load Bearing Wall, Column & Beam Construction,  Column to Beam Connection,  Beam Installation

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Beam Installation

Posted on by Tim Carter

Beam Installation Tips

beam column construction triple laminated beam

Here's a great shot of a triple laminated beam. The columns supporting it are solid wood 2x6's. You can see them packed together on the far wall and the corner where the two exterior walls meet. What we can't see in the photo is if the carpenter put extra blocking under the exterior bottom wall plate, so the load is transferred to the poured, or cast, concrete foundation wall. The floor joists for the second floor will hang off this beam using galvanized joist hangers. This photo also shows three other beams in the exterior walls. They're made from 2x10s and pieces of OSB. They're over each window or door opening in the photo. © 2017 Tim Carter

Beams are not too hard to install, however it usually requires a minimum of two people to accomplish the task safely. Even a six foot long double 2x12 beam can be heavy. Here are some things I have learned over the years:

Get the Rough In Right

Beams are usually the top element of an opening. If you don't take the time to get the rough-in measurement right, you could be replacing your first attempt with a second, larger beam! All too often a rookie cuts the beam the same as the rough opening. At a bare minimum the beam should be three inches longer. Beams over six feet usually must be six inches longer than the rough opening width.

Build Wood Beams in Place

If you are using traditional 2 x material for the beam, why not install the pieces one at a time? If you assemble the beam on the floor it may be too heavy to lift. Simply secure the beam to the king studs until you can nail all members together in place.

Steel is the Strongest

If you have a long span and limited headroom for a beam, then consider steel. You can use a single steel plate sandwiched between two wooden 2 x ? . The steel company will provide holes in the steel plate that allow you to bolt the entire assembly together. A structural engineer will specify the steel plate for you. You can also buy four inch wide junior I beams that can often fit into a typical 2x4 wall!

Hidden Beams

How would you like a smooth ceiling in between two rooms? I have it in my kitchen and breakfast area. I also have a beam that is in the same plane as the floor joists! You can do this and use joist hangers to hang the floor joists from the beam. Remember, the beam doesn't always have to be under the floor joists!

Size and Scope-Out Your Material

Be careful when building built-up wood beams. Try to select lumber that is sized the same. Joists can vary in height by as much as 1/4 inch. This can cause concentrated loads on the wood columns at each end as one aspect of the beam transfers all of the load onto the wood columns.

Also look for crowns or humps in the beams. Make sure all of the wood members have a similar crown and that the crowns all have their humps pointed towards the sky. This curvature is similar to a standard archway.

Don't Guess the Size!

Beams need to be sized by professionals. Every week I get at least one email from someone wanting to know what size beam to use in an opening. A structural engineer will do this for you. The actual calculation often takes less than a half hour. I know because I have seen a good friend of mine, Bob Becker P.E., do it on several occasions!

CLICK or TAP HERE to get FREE QUOTES from local structural engineers that can size your beams properly.

Related Articles:  Removing a Load Bearing Wall, Column & Beam Construction,  Column to Beam Connection,  Headers, Beams and Wall Sensors

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Column to Beam Connection

Posted on by Tim Carter

Connecting Beams to Columns

post cap connector Simpson

Here's a post cap connector. Simpson makes them in all different sizes to connect different posts to different width beams.

Simple headers in walls often employ nails driven through the king studs that run up along side each end of a beam. This is a good method. However, a beam that simply sits on top of a column is a weak structural location. You can purchase very nifty metal post to beam connectors for just about any configuration. Many home centers or lumber yards stock these connectors.

Two companies that make them are:

  • Simpson Strong Tie Company
  • USP Structural Connectors

I urge you to look at both of these websites. You will be amazed at the different connectors available.

In the case of steel, I always suggest that you hire a welder to come out and weld steel beams to the steel columns beneath. This often costs less than $200 and can ensure that you have a long lasting connection.

If you live in an area prone to earthquakes, be sure to find out exactly how all beam/column connections should be done to prevent failure when the earth shakes, rattles and rolls!

Related Articles:  Removing a Load Bearing Wall, Column & Beam Construction,  Beam Installation,  Headers, Beams and Wall Sensors

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Plywood Attic Platforms

Posted on by Tim Carter
attic roof framing blown insulation gable end vent

Plywood Attic Platforms - see the plywood being used as a walkway in this attic?

Hello Tim,

I have a house with a 2x4 roof truss system. I plan on adding more insulation in the attic area. Can I walk on the existing 2x4's without causing damage to the ceiling?

Roy

- - -

Hello Roy,

You absolutely can walk on the edges of the bottom chord of each truss. But I feel you should cut a piece or two of 3/4 inch plywood that is 16 inches wide by 4 feet long to use as small platforms to work from. If you work without these, you may stumble and pop through to your family below.

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Rubber Roofing

Posted on by Tim Carter
rubber roofing

This dark gray material is a rubber roof. If you look closely you can read the tire company name that made it. PHOTO BY: Tim Carter

DEAR TIM: I just had a rubber membrane roof put on. Half my roof was stripped and plywood and insulation board were put down. The other half of the roof was scheduled to be worked on two days later. Before leaving my house, the contractor put a tarp down to protect the unfinished work.

That night the wind blew away a big piece of the tarp and the insulation board and plywood got rained on. The next day it was windy and overcast. When the contractor proceeded with his work, he said everything was dry as a bone and he put the rubber membrane on top of the insulation board and plywood. The amount of rain was enough that the water came into my kitchen. It had rained most of the night when the tarp had blown off.

The roof is now finished, but I know that some of the plywood and insulation board had gotten wet. The roofer used his tools to pry up the pieces of plywood to allow the space under the roof to dry. However soon after this was done the rubber membrane was applied. Do I have any reason for concern? Rachel A., Norfolk, VA

DEAR RACHEL: Believe it or not, rain-soaked roof sheathing can dry pretty quickly if exposed to some breezy wind conditions and even moderate sunlight. I have seen dew-saturated plywood dry within 45 minutes in the right conditions. My experience tells me the roof sheathing was probably just fine as the work continued.

But the insulation under the plywood should be the concern. It could take days to dry. Now that the roof is covered with a rubber membrane that completely stops the movement of liquid water and virtually all water vapor, I would have a heightened level of concern if I were you.

How can you tell if insulation is wet?

The first thing to do is try to open up the ceiling in the kitchen to inspect the hidden cavity. See if the insulation is wet. If you discover moisture, take videos of the wet material and take plenty of photos to document the damage. I also suggest you do this in the presence of a disinterested friend or neighbor who will be able to sign a sworn affidavit at some future time. I am afraid to tell you that the entire ceiling needs to be opened up so the ruined insulation can be removed and the framing allowed to dry.

I would then call the roofing company and see what they will do to assist you to repair any damage, even if you just have to patch a small inspection hole. If you meet a little resistance from the roofer, ask for a certificate of insurance.

Avoid repairing roof leaks yourself! Find a professional using my Roofing Replacement / Repair Checklist. I offer a 100% Money Back Guarantee.

What is a Certificate of Insurance?

Actually, you should have had this important document in your possession before you accepted their bid. A certificate of insurance proves that a roofing company has a valid liability insurance policy. Obtaining this proof is very important anytime you hire a contractor to work on your home. Never feel ashamed or embarrassed to ask for this document. Remember, it is your home and you want to know that damage to it will be paid for in the event of an accident or poor workmanship practices such as improper attachment of a tarp.

While the roofer had great intentions covering your unfinished roof with a tarp, Mother Nature thought he was building a sailboat. Tarps that are not expertly secured can become giant sails in a gusty rainstorm. If the wind gets a purchase under one corner of the tarp, it can tear loose in short order. Imagine what would have happened if it rained for days and you lost all of the ceilings in your home? Believe me, this has happened to many people.

CLICK or TAP HERE to get FREE QUOTES from local roofing companies that can address your roofing issues.

If the roofer gives you any trouble whatsoever, you should write a detailed letter to the roofing company telling them you have grave concerns about trapped moisture under the roof. Include a truthful time line of all of the events. Just state the facts. Do not editorialize or state things you think happened. Just state exactly what you know to be fact.

Write down the facts!

Reference the amount of rainfall and all facts including the loss of the temporary covering. Show photos of ceiling damage and the one you sent me. The roofer obviously was concerned about moisture under the wood since he is making an effort to get air under the wood by using his tools to lift up the edges of the plywood.

The letter you write to the roofer or any other contractor is part of the paper trail that is vitally important should the situation enter the legal arena. Attorneys, judges and juries love to see written correspondence.

If you want fantastic protection of your rights, the letter needs to contain a very important sentence at the end. I would write something like this:

If you disagree with any of the facts or the timing of the events that I have referenced above, please respond to me in writing within 10 business days. Be sure to include documentation that supports your statements and clearly shows that what I have presented above is in error.

The insurance company needs to be sent a copy of the letter to put them on notice of a possible claim. These letters need to be sent to both companies via certified mail with a return receipt being sent to you. Keep these very valuable receipts.

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Tips for Installing Insulation

Posted on by Tim Carter
Be sure to read the special Author's Note at the end of this column. It provides updated information on this topic.

Insulation Installation Tips

Insulation is a fairly easy material to work with. You do not need expensive tools or equipment for normal installations. A tape measure, utility knife, straight edge, insulation knife and a stapler are usually all you will need. It is also a good idea to protect your body. So, use lightweight work gloves, a long sleeved loose fitting shirt, goggles or protective glasses, and a dust mask.

Fiberglass insulation expands when it is opened. They compress the material at the factory. When opened, it may expand 500 to 1,000 percent! So, don't open the material until you are ready.

When installing insulation in cavities that contain wires, it is a good idea to partially split the insulation where it crosses the wire. The idea is to encapsulate the wire with insulation. If you (or the installer) do not do this, there will be a void space behind the insulation! The insulation will not be able to expand fully. I have seen installers fail to split the insulation on many jobs that I have visited. Don't let it happen on your job!

Insulation must be placed around all windows and doors to fill the gap between the frame and the rough opening. The entire gap should be filled, however, be sure it is not packed too tightly! It may bulge the frame and you lose insulating value when insulation is too tightly packed.

Learn even more secrets for successfully installing insulation with my Insulation Installation Checklist. I offer a 100% Money Back Guarantee.

Always use baffles when installing blown-in attic insulation. The air from the soffits or eaves must be able to pass over the insulation in the narrow area where the roof passes over the exterior walls!

Don't install a vapor barrier on ceilings!!!!!! Let the water vapor into the attic area and out of the house!

Author's Note:

Routinely I am blessed to hear from professionals and industry experts who share in-depth and updated information about a topic. You'll absolutely want to read the letter I received from the President of NAIMA (North American Insulation Manufacturers Association). It really helps clarify some of the points I just touched on in the insulation columns.

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R Value and Insulation Manufacturers, Associations

Posted on by Tim Carter

Insulation R-Value Recommendations

The U.S. Department of Energy has recently upgraded insulation R-value recommendations.These recommendations were the result of studies of energy costs for both heating and cooling by zip code. The United States, as a result of this study, was divided into eight zones. There is a wide range of R-values for ceilings. These R-values range from R-49 in the coldest locations to R-30 in the warmest parts of our nation. All areas of the nation require a minimum R-19 for exterior walls and floors over unheated crawl spaces.

Owens Corning has an extensive web site geared to consumers with information on insulation. Go to "Insulating At a Glance" and check out the wealth of information.

Insulation Manufacturers & Associations

  • ADO Products
    Fiberglass
  • Ark-Seal Inc. International
    Blown-in-Blanket System
  • Certainteed Corporation Insulation Group
    Fiberglass Batts & Blown-in
  • Guardian Fiberglass, Inc.
    Blow-in fiberglass
  • Owens-Corning
    Fiberglass Batts and Blown-in
  • Cellulose Insulation Manufacturers Association
  • North American Insulation Manufacturers

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Fiberglass – Newest Improvements

Posted on by Tim Carter
Be sure to read the special Author's Note at the end of this column. It provides updated information on this topic.

New Technology For Fiberglass

As I mentioned in a previous article, insulation manufacturers are responding with new products. Two exciting technologies have emerged in response to some of the problems that installers have experienced in using existing materials.

When installing fiberglass batts in standard width wall, floor or ceiling stud (joist) bays, you generally have no problems. However, wires, pipes and irregular framed areas make for big problems. Fiberglass batts depend upon a tight fit to achieve desired R-values. This is tough to do around pipes and wires.

This problem led to the development of blow-in-blanket fiberglass insulation. The loose fiberglass is treated with an adhesive and blown behind a tightly stretched plastic membrane. This allows the fiberglass to fill every void and plug all holes. Plus, it's guaranteed not to settle!

Manufacturers are also producing fiberglass batt insulation which is wrapped entirely in plastic. This minimizes airborne fiberglass particles which recently are thought to be a possible carcinogen.

Another advantage is comfort of installation. Fiberglass can and does irritate your skin. I never looked forward to installing it. The new plastic wrapped batts are a plus!

You can also purchase high density fiberglass batts. These products offer a higher R-value per inch because they have more fiberglass fibers per cubic inch. This means that there are more small air pockets available to slow down heat loss or heat transfer.

The new products are exciting!

Author's Note:

Routinely I am blessed to hear from professionals and industry experts who share in-depth and updated information about a topic. You'll absolutely want to read the letter I received from the President of NAIMA (North American Insulation Manufacturers Association). It really helps clarify some of the points I just touched on in the insulation columns.

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Insulation – Fiberglass and Cellulose

Posted on by Tim Carter
Be sure to read the special Author's Note at the end of this column. It provides updated information on this topic.

Fiberglass & Cellulose Insulation Facts, Installation Thicknesses, Manufacturers & Tips

Insulation is like just about any other building material with respect to changes. Major manufacturers spend millions of dollars on research and development in an attempt to make better and better products. Innovations and new products often result from these efforts.

One wouldn't think that insulation would be able to be greatly improved. After all, it is a very basic material, either fiberglass or cellulose. I mean, really, what can you do to those materials? The answer is simple. Lots!

Insulation Facts

Insulation is a really big business. For example, fiberglass insulation sales are close to from four to six billion dollars per year. Cellulose insulation sales are much smaller. The Cellulose Insulation Manufacturers Association quotes annual sales of cellulose ranging between 115 and 125 million dollars. It is obvious that fiberglass is the sweetheart building material preferred by builders, remodelers and homeowners. Part of the reason for the low cellulose sales figure lies in the fact that product quality suffered during the energy crisis of the 1970's. The number of companies making cellulose swelled and many of these companies made an inferior product.

Learn the secrets for successfully installing insulation with my Insulation Installation Checklist. I offer a 100% Money Back Guarantee.

Fiberglass Facts

Fiberglass is a very unique product. Its name describes exactly what it is. Fiberglass is simply spun glass fibers. Glass is melted and spun in a centrifuge that has small holes. It's pretty similar to making cotton candy, but on a much bigger scale.

Fiberglass is non-combustible. It simply won't burn. If a fire gets hot enough, it will just melt. However, fiberglass batts that are covered with kraft paper or a foil facing are combustible. The fiberglass won't burn, but the paper and foil facings will readily burn. In fact, many household fires are caused in this fashion. I, myself, accidentally started a fire in a crawlspace. Someone had installed kraft paper faced insulation between the floor joists with the paper facing out towards the ground. I was using a plumbing torch to solder some pipes. I was trying to be extremely careful, however, I glanced away for just a second and whoosh the paper was on fire! Fortunately, I was able to quickly extinguish the fire.

Fiberglass, especially batt type, will not settle with age. Because of this attribute, it will maintain its R-value (measure of insulating power) over the life of the product.

The R-value of blown-in fiberglass insulation can be affected by temperature differences in very cold climates. In fact, it can lose up to 50 percent of its R-value when the temperature differential between the heated space and the unheated attic is significant. The best defense in these situations is to install extra fiberglass to compensate for this loss.

The R-value of different types of fiberglass is not the same per inch. For example, you can expect R-values between 3.2 to 3.3 per inch in fiberglass batts and blankets when fully expanded. Loose fiberglass fill (poured or blown) usually exhibits an R-value of 2.1 to 2.7 per inch.

Cellulose Facts

Cellulose insulation is very easy to manufacture and the raw material, recycled newspapers, is very inexpensive. The equipment to blow it in is also very inexpensive.

There are two ways to install it. It can either be blown-in dry or wet. The wet application requires water and an adhesive.

The cellulose can also be blown before drywall or plaster is attached to walls. In these instances,a tough plastic fabric is stretched tightly across the wall framing members. The cellulose is then blown in at the top of the membrane. The installers need to make sure that the density is consistent, however.

Cellulose, especially when blown dry, can and does settle. Manufacturers recommend that you install cellulose until it reaches its 'settled' R-value. After settling, cellulose has an R-value of 3 per inch.

Cellulose is fire resistant. It is not fireproof! Cellulose treated with fire resistant chemicals has ignited in laboratory and real-life installed conditions. Cellulose insulation fires can sometimes smolder undetected for hours. Laboratory tests have shown that cellulose insulation, when heated to temperatures near 300 degrees F, can loose its fire retardant properties. Cellulose also has a tendency to produce large volumes of dust during installation. This is more of a problem when installing the material dry.

Author's Note:

Routinely I am blessed to hear from professionals and industry experts who share in-depth and updated information about a topic. You'll absolutely want to read the letter I received from the President of NAIMA (North American Insulation Manufacturers Association). It really helps clarify some of the points I just touched on in this column.

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Fiberglass Blankets and Blown In Insulation

Posted on by Tim Carter
Be sure to read the special Author's Note at the end of this column. It provides updated information on this topic.

truss framing and blown insulation

Fiberglass Blankets and Blown In Insulation

There are two or three fiberglass manufacturers that everybody knows. Each of these companies has tried to create an identity for themselves by coloring their fiberglass insulation products. However, did you know that there are a total of seven companies in the business? Some of the names you would readily recognize. Others are minor players. The bottom line, though, is that fiberglass is virtually the same no matter who makes it. The important part of the manufacturing process is how it is spun, cross-laminated and constructed.

Fiberglass insulation works as an insulator when it can trap and hold millions and billions of air bubbles or particles. This is accomplished by the intertwining of the fiberglass fibers. Too much fiberglass per given cubic measurement and you have no air. Too little fiberglass and the air can pass through rapidly. The trick is to get the correct balance. The major manufacturers perfected this process years ago. Recently their research has provided insulation which is less irritating, and batts which come wrapped in plastic. The scientists continue to work hard on new products. I can't wait to see when the space shuttle heat shield technology finally makes it to the residential market. When it does, we will be heating our homes with a candle!attic roof framing blown insulation gable end vent

Blown-in fiberglass is the same product as batt insulation. A DIY'r can easily install batt insulation. Blown-in fiberglass is not so easy. The biggest obstacle is finding installation equipment. The blowing machines for fiberglass are large and powerful. They are usually truck mounted, not portable. The engines that power the blowers are usually 10 horsepower or larger. You won't put this type of equipment in the back of your car, trust me! Call the professional. It is usually cheaper.

  • Ark-Seal, Inc. Int'l.
  • CertainTeed Insulation
  • Georgia-Pacific Corp.
  • Guardian Fiberglass
  • Johns Manville
  • Knauf Fiber Glass
  • Owens Corning

Learn the secrets for successfully installing insulation with my Insulation Installation Checklist. I offer a 100% Money Back Guarantee.

Insulation Association

If you need some generic information about fiberglass and other insulators, contact this association:

North American Insulation Manufacturers

North American In The NAHB (National Association of Home Builders) Research Center has developed an Insulation Contractor Certification program. To find a list of certified installers, go to nahbrc.org and click on Lab/Certification Services.

Author's Note:

Routinely I am blessed to hear from professionals and industry experts who share in-depth and updated information about a topic. You'll absolutely want to read the letter I received from the President of NAIMA (North American Insulation Manufacturers Association). It really helps clarify some of the points I just touched on in the insulation columns.

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