Condensation – Sources and Solutions

Posted on August 28, 2003 by Tim Carter

These gas logs look harmless. But when they are burning, they create vast amounts of water vapor. This vapor goes up my chimney. If you have a vent-free set of gas logs, the water vapor your logs create stays in your home!

DEAR TIM: I recently had siding and new insulated glass windows installed. The place looks great, but now I have mildew growing on my new windows and on the ceilings above a couple of the windows. I have electric baseboard heat which is very dry. We also installed a vent-free fireplace to minimize our use of electric heat. There is more condensation now than ever before. I thought I had it all figured out, but now I am crazy with frustration. Are the windows poor quality? What is the problem? Stacy J., Cambridge, OH

DEAR STACY: Don't admit yourself to the funny farm just yet. The excessive condensation may be traced to several problem areas. The recent home improvements you have completed have drastically altered the dynamics of air movement in and out of your home. In addition, the vent- free fireplace is adding more than heat to your indoor environment. You should be able to stop the condensation on the windows, but the solution may be painful.

Condensation can appear on new windows in just about any part of the nation. If you can get beads of water to form on a cold can of soda or an ice cold glass of tea while inside or outside your home, you can get windows to do the same. Homeowners who live in the South and Southwest can create condensation on the exterior surface of widows if they set their air conditioning too low. Condensation occurs when the temperature of a glass, metal, or any other surface reaches or drops below the dew point of the air in contact with the material.

Condensation, or dew, forms when the cold or cool surface chills the adjacent humid air and the water vapor in that air changes back to liquid water. To make matters worse, the dew point can fluctuate up or down without giving you any real notice. In very cold climates, the interior glass, metal, or plaster surface can get so cold that the condensation turns into ice or frost.

The new siding and windows of your home have probably helped to stop air infiltration into your home. Cold air can hold much less humidity or water vapor than warm air. Before you changed your windows, drier cold or cool air used to leak into your home and mix with the warmer more humid inside air. This lowered the overall relative humidity of the air in your home. Your new windows and siding have actually caused the humidity level to rise in your home because this mixing no longer takes place. Even though the windows may be top quality, the temperature of the inner pane of insulated glass may still reach or drop below the dew point of your interior humid air.

I actually feel the condensation problem is being caused by the new vent-free fireplace. These energy efficient devices keep all of the heat inside since they do not require a chimney, but they pump vast quantities of water vapor into your home as they burn. Water is a by-product of the combustion of natural or propane gas. For every 100,000 Btu's of gas burned, approximately 1.5 gallons of water is created and added to the air inside your home. If you stop using the fireplace for several days, the condensation problem should lessen considerably. Keep in mind that if the outside air temperature rises during this test period, you may be lulled into a false sense of security. Remember, as the outside air temperature rises, so does the surface temperature of the glass, wall, and ceiling surfaces adjacent to outside walls.

The water vapor that is causing the condensation may also be coming from a crawl space. Crawl space soil needs to be completely covered with high performance vapor barriers. Even though the soil inside a crawl space appears dry, it is releasing water vapor into your home 24 hours a day. High performance vapor barriers are made with two cross laminated sheets of high grade virgin polyethylene. They perform much better than standard polyethylene vapor barriers sold at most hardware stores and home centers.

The windows you purchased may also be part of the problem. Not all windows are made the same. Windows that are the least susceptible to condensation at a given dew point are those that pass voluntary manufacturing standards implemented by various organizations and associations. Top quality window manufacturers that submit their products to these independent tests use high performance glass and materials. Look for widows that have certification labels from either AAMA, NFRC, or Energy Star.

Column 301

Window Cleaning

Posted on August 28, 2003 by Tim Carter

Window Cleaning | Easy to Get Pro Results

Don't use blue window cleaner in a spray bottle
Use simple water with a small amount of liquid dish soap
Use a lambswool or sponge to clean the window
Remove water with a rubber squeegee

DEAR TIM: I have had it with cleaning the splattered and dirty windows in my new home. I have tried everything: off the shelf spray cleaners, vinegar and water, and ammonia and water solutions. The results are usually the same. The windows look fine until direct sunlight highlights all of the streaks. Switching from rags to paper towels does not make a difference. What am I doing wrong? There must be a way to get glass perfectly clean. Molly H., Yorba Linda, CA

DEAR MOLLY: As much as I hate to say it, the primary source of your problem is operator error. In addition, the cleaning solutions you are using are not what professionals use. I am convinced that you can get your windows crystal clear and with minimal effort. It may take some practice, but it is possible.

Can You Scratch Window Glass?

window cleaning Standard window glass must be treated with care when it is cleaned, especially glass exposed to the harsh new construction environment. Glass is actually relatively soft and it is porous. Cement, paint, urethanes, and sealers can penetrate the surface and stick tenaciously to the glass. Sand from brick mortar and stucco, asphalt shingle granules, heavy dust from an assortment of construction activities can all scratch new glass if one is not careful. The best way to avoid scratches on new glass is to protect it with a plastic covering during construction.

How Do You Clean Construction Splatter?

Windows that have construction splatter on them need to be cleaned with care. A new 3 or 4 inch wide sharp flexible putty knife that has no burrs on the edge when used with flowing water will help you get material off the exterior surfaces of the glass. A mist of soapy water used on interior glass surfaces will help lubricate the surface to help prevent scratches as you gently scrape off any built up deposits.

Why is Blue Spray Window Cleaner Inferior?

When you wash your car, I doubt that you spray it with a solution and then rub this solution with paper towels in a circular motion over the car's painted finish. It's no wonder, as a significant amount of dirt would still be left on the car. Your methods of cleaning your windows simply removed some of the dirt and spread the rest of it around on the surface. To get windows perfectly clean you must remove all of the dirt from the glass.

How Do Pros Clean Glass?

Professional window cleaners get glass clean by doing just that. They used to use a lambswool applicator, but microfiber applicator tools are now the tool of choice for pros.

The microfiber tool on the right is what you should use to clean your windows. CLICK or TAP HERE or the photo to order one and have it at your home in days.

As they wipe the glass, an enormous amount of the dirt is actually transferred to the sponge. The solution is usually just a mixture of water and a mild soap de-greasing agent. Professionals use squeegees to remove the solution that is left on the glass. The soap in the solution lubricates the glass surface allowing the squeegee to glide across the glass.

What is the Best Squeegee?

To achieve professional results, you need to use the right squeegee. A professional squeegee is often constructed with brass channel that holds a rubber blade.

The rubber often projects past the brass just 1/8 inch or so making it very rigid.

This is a professional squeegee and it's very affordable. They come in many different widths. CLICK or TAP HERE or the image to have it delivered to your home.

Why Should the Squeegee be Brass?

Brass is used to hold the rubber blade because it is a soft metal that will not scratch glass.

Some hardware stores may carry professional squeegees. You can also try businesses that sell janitorial supplies and equipment. These distributors may also sell concentrated glass cleaning solutions. You can make your own window cleaning solution using liquid dish soap and water.

Click here to watch my video on window cleaning tools.

Should I Hire A Pro?

You may want to consider hiring a professional window cleaner instead of fussing with your windows. They have all of the right tools and equipment that allow them to easily clean windows with minimal effort. The shocking thing to me is the relatively low cost.

Professional window cleaners in my city charge about $2.75 per side to clean an average sized window. Often an average home that has 15 windows can be cleaned for less than $90. When you consider the hassle, danger involved in working on ladders, and the amount of money you spend on paper towels, you may find that calling a professional is a much better way to go.

Column 302

Home Wiring for the Future

Posted on August 28, 2003 by Tim Carter

You should try to organize as much of your wiring as possible at one location. But be careful, it may be best to separate certain types of wiring to ensure there is no interference caused by the higher voltage wires.

DEAR TIM: I want my new home to be ready for all of the new technology that I feel is just around the corner. What is the best way to prepare a house for electronic technology? Are there special wires that need to be installed before the walls are covered up? Maybe there is no concern as all future appliances and communications will be wireless. What would you do if you were me? Becky P., Euless, TX

DEAR BECKY: I applaud you for your forward thinking! You will never regret getting your house ready for future advancements in home technology. All one has to do is simply look back ten years. Very few people were even remotely concerned about connecting different rooms of their house so that it would become a network. Networking home computers, sound systems, heating and air conditioning equipment, and intercoms are now the buzzwords of both new construction and those of us that live in existing homes.

A connected home is one that has excellent internal structured wiring that allows occupants to gain access to the Internet, telephone, cable TV, satellite TV, etc. in just about any room of the house, including outdoor patios, decks, and pools. The need for structured wiring is clear. Advancements in home entertainment allow high fidelity sound systems to be heard in multiple rooms at the same time. Home security systems can now be easily connected to personal computers and remote monitoring stations. Water, electric and gas utility meters can be read remotely. The list of appliances, house components, and personal communications devices that can be interconnected is growing daily.

Hard wiring solutions appear to be the direction that home technology is headed. Signals that travel through wire are often more reliable and can carry more data faster. They are certainly more secure, as some wireless signals can be captured, stored, and re-broadcast in your absence by pranksters or undesirables who are lurking just beyond your home.

You have certain options available when you wire your new home. The backbone of a connected home that contains structured wiring is a distribution panel that is nearly identical to a traditional electric service panel. This box can be located very near the electric service panel and should have excellent access to the exterior of your home so that service providers can feed their cables into the distribution panel. Certain boxes are made to accommodate multiple service providers.

The absolute minimum wiring you should extend from the distribution box to each bedroom, den, family room, kitchen, home office, etc. is a UTP CAT 5 cable that contains four pairs of twisted wire. This is the new standard wire used to feed telephone equipment. In addition, string a RG-6 coaxial cable to each room. Note that each room should be connected to the distribution box with its own separate cable. Do not loop one cable in between rooms in a series.

If you really want to prepare for the future extend two CAT5 or CAT5e cables into each room. Once this is completed, extend two RG-6 quad shielded coaxial cables into the rooms. This level of wiring will enable you to have a huge pipeline capable of carrying vast quantities of information to and from any activity center within your home. All of the cables have sleek outlet covers and connection plates that attach to walls in your home.

Even though you may wire each room adequately, there is always the possibility that a wiring standard may change in the future. Planning ahead for this possibility is simple. The trick is to install a minimum of three empty two-inch diameter plastic conduits from the distribution box area into the attic of your home. These conduits create pathways behind the walls that allow you to easily distribute future cables and wire. One of the conduits should be reserved for traditional high voltage wiring. Keep this conduit at least 4 feet away from the low voltage and communications wire conduits. This spacing will help minimize or eliminate electromagnetic interference created by high voltage wiring. The ends of the conduit need to be capped to prevent fire from spreading from one part of the house to another.

A structured-wiring panel should be in a convenient location.

Consider adding blank electrical rough-in boxes on exterior walls that have a plastic conduit that extends into an attic or basement. This flexibility will be genuinely appreciated by a future technician who needs to install a computer, modem, TV, or some yet-to-be-invented device on an outside wall. The cost to install the empty box and conduit will be a small fraction of what it will cost to restore the wall surface and baseboard after the frustrated technician works for hours to run the cable!

If you are looking for an great book for installing simple wall lights to running wire in new construction and in existing walls and ceilings, then Wiring a House is the book for you. With its wealth of practical know how this book, written by a master electrician, is sure to become an indispensable reference for anyone who wants a common sense guide to residential electricity. The black and white photos and illustrations featured in this book are clear, crisp and easy to understand. You must buy a copy of Wiring a House, a great hardback book published by Taunton Press.

If you are looking for a book with invaluable information on tools and materials, detailed instructions for how to repair or replace wiring in old buildings and bring them up to code then you need a copy of Old Electrical Wiring. This 400 plus page book tells you everything you could ever imagine about switch layouts, troubleshooting, and design change. It also has an extensive glossary of old wiring terms and slang. Packed with drawings and illustrations, including pictures of old devices, this practical book will tell you whether an old electrical system should be torn out or repaired. This book will really help you.

Here's a complete, full - color guide to all aspects of residential wiring and how to apply them to the wiring of a typical house. Electrical Wiring Residential, is another must have book. It's everything anyone could need to know, from wiring a lighting branch circuit, to installing a service entrance or swimming pool. Loaded with examples, wiring diagrams, spectacular photos and illustrations explaining all the new 1999 NEC requirements thoroughly. This book is easy to read and understand, yet has all the instructions and details needed to perform virtually any residential wiring job properly.

Column 303

Plywood and OSB

Posted on August 28, 2003 by Tim Carter

Plywood vs OSB
DEAR TIM: I am getting ready to build a new home and wonder about the difference between traditional plywood and the newer oriented strand board (OSB). Is one better than the other? Is my builder using OSB to save money? Are there special precautions one should take after installing either product or can they get wet on repeated occasions? What about cost? Harvey R., Marshall, MI

DEAR HARVEY: I'll bet the same sort of consternation existed when plywood was introduced years ago as a substitute for solid wood sheathing. The passage of time and success stories from millions of installations have clearly shown plywood to be a proven performer. Production figures indicate that OSB has finally been accepted by builders, remodelers and homeowners. OSB manufacturers produced 26 million square feet of OSB this year (2006). In comparison, plywood manufacturers only produced 16 million square feet of plywood.

In many ways plywood and OSB are virtually identical. But in many respects they are quite different. Possibly the most important thing to realize is that when each product is manufactured according to strict guidelines and standards, they both exhibit superior strength and long term performance properties. You can count on both plywood and OSB for strength and stability as long as your builder follows all installation recommendations and purchases the right product from the start.

Plywood is made by shaving thin strips or plys of veneer from logs. Over 70 different species of trees can be used in plywood. After the veneer has been dried and graded, adhesive is applied to the wood strips. Each layer of veneer is oriented at 90 degrees to the one just above or below it. The glued pieces of veneer are then placed in a hot press. The heat and pressure allow the glue to penetrate deeply into the wood fibers producing a lasting bond. The layering or cross lamination of the plys is vital as it gives the plywood superior strength and stiffness. The cross layering also minimizes expansion, contraction and eliminates splitting.

OSB is made in the basically the exact same fashion. Instead of using large sheets of solid wood veneer, thousands of 3 and 4 inch long strands of solid wood are combined to make each sheet of OSB. High technology manufacturing equipment has the ability to orient the strands so they overlap and interlock at a 90 degree angle. Each strand of wood is completely coated with a high performance resin glue. After the OSB leaves the hot press, you have a structural engineered wood product that maximizes our natural resources and has superior high strength characteristics.

OSB Plywood

Rain falls on many, many homes as they are being built. In fact, rain storms left standing puddles of water on my own home's plywood sub-floors for days. The plywood was not affected long term because I used the right grade. Make sure that you use plywood or OSB that is stamped EXPOSURE 1. This labeling is your guarantee that waterproof resins and glues were used to bond together the wood. EXPOSURE 1 plywood and OSB are made to withstand repeated rainfall with little or no damage during a normal time frame construction project. To prevent rot and loss of strength, they must be allowed to dry and then have permanent protection from moisture. If you want plywood or OSB that can be permanently exposed to weather and rain, then purchase those products that bear the EXTERIOR stamp or label.

Some OSB panels react differently from plywood when they get wet. When OSB is manufactured the cut edges are sealed with a special waterproof paint. Carpenters destroy the watertight integrity of OSB each time they make a cut that exposes wood fiber edges. These cut edges are prone to swelling after they get wet. It is possible to seal these edges after they are cut, but it may be tough to find a carpenter willing to take the time to perform this extra step.

Lumber products are true commodities. Prices of these products can fluctuate wildly with changes in supply and demand. Currently where I live the prices of plywood versus OSB are very close. A piece of one half inch plywood that a builder would use on a roof or a sidewall only costs $1.02 more than a similar piece of OSB. A sheet of 3/4 inch sub-floor plywood costs just $4.38 more than the same sized piece of OSB. If you desire to use plywood on your new home, the extra cost may only be several hundred dollars.

Column 304

Custom Woodwork – Easy to Find!

Posted on August 28, 2003 by Tim Carter

Custom Woodwork

DEAR TIM: I just visited several lumber companies and home center stores. The selection of wood work trim for baseboards, door and window casings, and crown moldings were just average. All of the molding profiles match what I see everywhere. I am looking for unique molding profiles and possibly ones that I have ideas for. I also desire solid wood moldings, not finger jointed pieces. Can it be made? Is it expensive? Where do you find woodwork like this? Kit R., Boulder, CO

DEAR KIT: I see that you are another person who is not pleased with the plain vanilla selection offered by many lumber yards and home centers. Certain molding profiles seem to be everywhere. I can remember back 20 years ago when a majority of new homes used the colonial profile. Prior to that ranch casings and baseboard were the rage. Personalized, unique, and custom wood work is readily available in many cities and towns.

All of the woodwork in my own home was custom milled. My wife drew the profiles and cross sections of how she wanted each piece of woodwork. She made sure that all of the different pieces complimented one another. Certain aspects of one piece of woodwork can be found duplicated or reflected in another. Many visitors to our home "Ooooo!" and "Ahhhh!" within minutes after seeing the woodwork and some of the specialty pieces of trim in our home.

The plain vanilla woodwork you see at the lumberyard and home centers is created on the same machine that makes custom woodwork. The mills that create woodwork have industrial shaping machines that generate woodwork moldings from flat pieces of solid wood stock. The only thing that differentiates the woodwork being created is the cutting knife that is inserted into the machine. The cutting knives are made from special hardened steel and can cut thousands of linear feet of woodwork with little effort or the need to be re-sharpened. It is not uncommon for a shaping machine to mill 1,000 or more linear feet of molding in just one hour.

The finger jointed woodwork you see is actually very environmentally friendly. Lumber mills take short scrap pieces of high quality trim lumber and glue them together. The finger joint is used to make the glue joint strong. Finger jointed trim is a good choice for woodwork that is to be painted. I would refrain from using it for trim that will be stained. The finger jointing process mixes pieces of wood with different grain. This makes for an unacceptable natural wood look in my opinion.

Custom milled woodwork is often not that expensive. The special knives that will be made to turn your ideas into reality cost on average about $150 apiece. This usually includes the setup charge to operate the shaping machine. You then just add the cost of the lumber that is going to be used for your trim. Oak, walnut, maple or cherry hardwood trim will of course be very expensive. If you intend to paint your woodwork, you can get very affordable paint grade poplar lumber. Poplar is a durable wood that mills with exceedingly crisp details. That is what I have used in my own home.

custom woodwork

The cost of custom milled woodwork drops dramatically as you have more made. Since the cost of running the shaping machine for a plain vanilla profile is the exact same as a custom profile, the only up-charge is the cost of the custom knife and the difference in price of the lumber you choose to use. Always be sure to order at least 100 linear feet more trim than your project needs. Mistakes, changes and other problems may create a need for extra trim. You want to avoid additional shaping machine setup charges.

Many of the lumber yards you visited have connections with architectural woodwork mills that produce custom woodwork. In certain cities and towns, individual people have the ability to create custom woodwork from small shops or even their own homes. Contact the salespeople at the lumber yards who deal with custom builders and remodelers. These salespeople know exactly where to get custom woodwork produced. You can also look under the Woodworking heading in your Yellow Pages.

Column 305

Do It Yourself – Sweat Equity

Posted on August 28, 2003 by Tim Carter

Nailing blocking into walls is a simple task.

DEAR TIM: My husband and I are building a new home soon. What sorts of things do you think we can do in order to take advantage of sweat equity? For instance, we have asked the builder not to lay the sod, because my husband likes to do landscape work. We are not interested in doing any heavy duty work, however, we would like to know what things are acceptable so that we may present the builder with these additional options. Laura W., Kansas City, MO

DEAR LAURA: I think this is a very smart idea that can turn into some serious savings. Finding the builder that will allow you to work side by side with him is going to be the hardest part. Seasoned builders will often shy away from sweat equity participation because they are afraid that you might not complete your part of the job(s) on time. If this happens, the delay(s) can impact the builders schedule and his profitability.

The best way to approach sweat equity jobs is to treat them like a real job. This means work at the job site from 7:30 a.m. until the late afternoon. This often means that you must use vacation days from your regular day job. If you try to work at your house during your off hours or on weekends, you will find that your productivity will often be less than 100 percent. Not only that, your performance at your regular day job may suffer if you work extended hours at your new home.

Your planning skills must also be sharp. You need to create written lists of all the tools and materials you need and have them assembled before you start your tasks. You can't afford delays of any type since other sub-contractors who work for the builder are relying on you to get your work completed.

If your local utility companies allow it, you should be able to easily install your telephone and cable TV cables. There is a good chance that you can install the rough alarm system wiring. It is quite likely that you can install a central vacuum system. The plastic piping is simple to fabricate and many manufacturers have excellent step-by-step guidelines.

I think you are also able to install the garage door opener. This is a great project that requires minimal tools. Simply make sure the electrician installs an outlet at the right location in the garage ceiling and that you install any low voltage wiring required to operate remote push buttons that activate the opener. I'll bet that you are able to install simple garage shelving. This is a simple sweat equity job that can often be complete in several hours. If you are ambitious, consider installing a storage loft in the garage.

If your new house includes a simple deck, consider tackling this job. Decks often can be completed over a period of weekends and not affect the work schedules of others. Be sure you build the deck according to all local codes. Treat the decking with a synthetic water repellent before you attach it to the joist system.

An often overlooked sweat equity job that you must do is blocking. Blocking consists of pieces of rough lumber installed between wall studs at strategic locations. Screws used to attach handrails, towel bars, shower and bath handicap grab bars, mirrors, large paintings, wall hooks, cloths and drapery rods, etc. bite into these pieces of lumber instead of the air found behind most new house drywall. After the blocking is in place, take photos of it before it is covered up. If your house has a crawl space, you can easily install a high performance vapor barrier that will eliminate musty odors in your new home.

Surely you are capable of installing your mailbox, house numbers, and closet shelves and clothes rods. You might also get a credit for performing extensive clean-up work each weekend. Scrap lumber, debris, etc. needs to be cleaned up on a routine basis and you are a perfect candidate. You can also protect the inside and outside of all window and door glass with sheet plastic so that you sweat less while cleaning them just before you move in!

A great book that is loaded with sweat equity jobs that the average to serious do-it-yourselfer can handle is Adding Value to your Home. In this book you'll learn do-it-yourself projects that add value to your house and yard while saving you money. This book gives a clear idea about what type of home - improvement projects will give the highest yield on investments. It is also written for those homeowners who need the basic skills instruction, clearly explaining step - by - step what to do as well as how to do it. The the illustrations and photos in this book are just fabulous.

Column 306

Vinyl Tile Choices

Posted on August 28, 2003 by Tim Carter

This isn't wood - it's vinyl tile!

DEAR TIM: I need a new flooring material for my kitchen, laundry room, and hallway. It needs to be virtually waterproof and easy to care for. In addition, I would really like it to be attractive, low cost, do-it-yourself friendly. Is there such a material? I was leaning towards the durable vinyl tiles I see in grocery stores, but I am turned off by the commercial look. Surely you have an alternative. Shelly A., Sarasota, FL

DEAR SHELLY: Let's see if I have it - attractive, low maintenance, waterproof, low cost and DIY friendly. Is that all? Are you sure you remembered everything? Your instincts are right on target because vinyl tile is the solution. You simply need to see the unbelievable new tiles, styles, and shapes. You can now install vinyl tile floors that will take your breath away. They are absolutely magnificent.

Vinyl tile, especially those that are 1/8 inch thick, are extremely durable and waterproof. The average vinyl tile commercial store floor may get one hundred to one thousand times more foot traffic per day than you would ever create in your house. When properly cared for, the vinyl tile floors in a typical residential home can be maintained to look as good as new for long periods of time. The tiles themselves are unaffected by water. The new adhesives that hold the tiles to concrete or wood underlayments are extremely water resistant.

I am getting ready to install vinyl tile in my own basement activity room where my kids will play. My wife and I have selected a vinyl tile that is unbelievable. It looks exactly like a wood strip floor. It is so realistic that when you stand on it, only a trained professional can tell it is not wood. Part of this illusion is created by the shape of the pieces. The flooring is not 12 inch by 12 inch square tiles. They are 3 inch wide by 36 inch long planks! When you install the planks in a random fashion by staggering the seams, it looks exactly like a wood strip floor.

The vinyl planks come in 20 different wood species, types and colors. They have a satin urethane finish that imparts incredible scuff and dirt resistance. By using two or three different wood species types, you can create an inlaid border look around the perimeter of the room. If you want the look of a larger wood plank, you can even buy 4.5 inch wide strips. The edges of all planks are micro-ground by precision equipment so that the when they are installed, the floor appears seamless.

Some manufacturers have vinyl tiles that simulate the look of the most expensive inlaid wood floors. Each tile has three components: a small square simulated wood corner block, a light strip of simulated wood on two edges, and the remainder of the tile is a simulated rich, burled wood. When you install the tiles in the recommend pattern, you create the look of a floor you might find in the library of an English castle or mansion.

This vinyl tile can fool a marble buyer.

If you don't want the wood look, perhaps marble tile might be of interest to you. You can now purchase vinyl tiles that will fool just about everyone who enters your home. The most elegant floor spaces are created by combining two or three different colors. The vinyl manufacturers have at least 30 other geometric styles, solid colors, and attractive patterns that will amaze you. I am quite sure you will find a color and pattern that will please you.

Once your floor is installed, it is easy to keep it looking perfect. The trick is to simply keep grit and dirt off the floor. If you walk on this material it acts like sandpaper. Sweep the floor regularly and wash it with a damp mop. You can maintain the satin or high gloss finish by purchasing clear coatings made by the manufacturers. These rapid drying products are easy to apply when the floor is clean.

Column 307

Kitchen Lighting – Mix It Up

Posted on August 27, 2003 by Tim Carter

Indirect lighting adds elegance and character to any kitchen.

DEAR TIM: I want my new kitchen lighting to be dramatic, functional and different. To make it a challenge for you, I am on a tight budget. Do you have some ideas that will give me what I am looking for? Do you think a ceiling fan is a good idea in kitchen? Sally M., Bolivar, TN

DEAR SALLY: The only challenging thing about this project is the planning aspect. I am quite certain I can deliver on all of your requests. If you are lucky enough to have a nine foot tall ceiling in the kitchen area, the end result is going to take your breath away.

The importance of kitchen lighting is often overlooked. All too often a builder or remodeler will just install a series of recessed lights and/or some surface fixtures to fulfill the need for general purpose lighting. The modern kitchen is often much more than just a work area. It can be a quiet area where you relax by yourself, a space where two people casually talk and get to know one another, or it can be an anteroom that is used to support activities in an adjacent space. An assortment of lighting types will allow you to maximize the mood in your kitchen no matter what you use it for.

I feel the most dramatic look you can achieve in a kitchen is to mix indirect lighting with direct lighting. Indirect lighting is created by hiding the light source from view. The light produced by the hidden fixture bounces off a ceiling or a wall and produces a warm glow that adds enormous amounts of atmosphere if done just right. The light fixtures can be hidden on top of or under wall cabinets or they can be installed in open troughs or layered ceiling areas that surround the entire kitchen space. Open soffits can be installed in a room with an eight foot ceiling height, but they look best if the ceiling is nine or even ten feet tall.

Direct lighting is achieved by using conventional recessed lights, surface lights or light fixtures that are on a pendant or chain. Many ceiling fans can be equipped with decorative light fixtures as well. These types of lights work well to provide bright lighting for work surfaces and general purpose lighting in the kitchen area.

To maximize the power and decorative effect of all of the lights you need to wire and switch them independently. Different sets of lights need to have separate controls so that you can add or delete layers of light as you would peel layers of skin from an onion.

For example, a ribbon of rope lights concealed in an open soffit that surrounds the entire kitchen can be the sole source of indirect light. Have this single light source on its own switch. Four or six small recessed lights in the central part of the kitchen ceiling may provide the next layer of light. Additional recessed lights that wash all of the countertops can be the third stage of light. A traditional surface mount fixture in the center of the room can provide the final boost of light energy when the kitchen needs to be at its brightest.

Ceiling fans in kitchen spaces are an excellent idea. Not only can they be a functional fixture, but they also can be a highly decorative item as well. I have a fan in my kitchen and it is a workhorse. During warmer weather it produces a gentle stream of cool air that keeps the cook, my wife Kathy, very happy. I use it every time I mop the floor. The air stream dries the floor before the cats or kids track up the floor.

If you decide to install a ceiling fan, make sure that you keep recessed fixtures away from it. If a fan blade passes underneath a light fixture, it can create a very annoying stroboscopic light effect. I like to keep recessed light fixtures at least 9 inches away from the edge of any of the fan blades. If you can maintain 12 inches clearance, that is even better.

Rope lighting and small recessed lights are budget friendly. A 20 foot long rope light and eight recessed lights with attractive trims can be purchased for about $300. If anything is going to break the budget it will be the ceiling fan. In case you can't afford the one you want, go ahead and install the approved ceiling fan electrical box and cable that will power it. Place a flush cover plate over the ceiling box and start saving your money and watch for sales or rebate offers.

If you are looking for a great book for installing simple wall lights, to running wire in new construction and in existing walls and ceilings, then Wiring a House is the book for you. With its wealth of practical know-how this book, written by a master electrician, is sure to become an indispensable reference for anyone who wants a common sense guide to residential electricity. The black and white photos and illustrations featured in this book are clear, crisp and easy to understand. You must buy a copy of Wiring a House, a great hardback book published by Taunton Press.

Here's a complete, full-color guide to all aspects of residential wiring. Electrical Wiring Residential is another must have book. It's everything anyone could need to know, from wiring a lighting branch circuit, to installing a service entrance or installing lights in a swimming pool. It is loaded with examples, wiring diagrams, spectacular photos and illustrations explaining all the 1999 NEC requirements. This book is easy to read and understand, yet has all the instructions and details needed to perform virtually any residential wiring job properly.

Column 308

Retractable Window Screens

Posted on August 25, 2003 by Tim Carter

Retractable screens improve your view and let in more light. This popular column was shared in Tim's June 6, 2021 Newsletter.

DEAR TIM: Spring is here and the bugs around my house are a nuisance. I have traditional full panel screens that I leave in place year round.

They're hard to clean, block the view when dirty, and are in bad shape. Is there an alternative?

While I was walking past a booth at a recent home and garden show I could have sworn I saw a retractable screen that worked like a traditional window blind. Was I dreaming? If not, do these things really work? Debbie S., Kettering, OH

DEAR DEBBIE: You were not dreaming, not by a long shot.

Disappearing Window Screens!

Window screens that disappear when not needed are available. What's so fascinating is that they are by no means a new product. They have a rich history and have been around for 75 years. It is amazing to me that this wonderful window option is not offered by more window companies as part of the original window installation.

Free & Fast BIDS

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local window screen companies that can install retractable disappearing screens!

Full view fixed window screens attach to windows in many different ways. Some attach on the inside of the house while others fit the outside frame of the window. Fixed screens that are in the inside of a house can block some beautiful trim elements of the window. Those that fit on the exterior of windows can do the same. Exterior screens, in my experience, seem to get dirty at a much faster rate than those that fit indoors.

Not only do screens block bugs from entering your house but they also block a considerable amount of natural light from entering. Many standard window screens can block up to 20 percent of sunlight from entering indoors. This may not seem like a big number until you do a quick experiment. If you have two windows that are side by side, temporarily remove the screen from one window to see the difference!

Retractable screens solve lots of problems. They stop bugs just like any other fixed window screen. In addition, they can be retracted when not needed. This allows you to enjoy the view of the great outdoors without anything blocking your vision. If you operate air conditioning on days when the temperature and humidity make it stifling indoors, you can quickly retract the screen. As soon as the weather cooperates and you want to let Mother Nature ventilate your home, simply pull the screen into position. It is that simple. While the screens are retracted, they can't get dirty.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local window screen companies that can install retractable disappearing screens!

Almost all of the retractable screens are housed in a sleek housing that fits snugly in the top of the window opening. Because the screen housing is only a few inches in height, they rarely block the view out of the window. When pulled into place, some screens are held in place by snap clips while other ones are secured by magnets. A spring mechanism within the housing provides the necessary tension to make the screen fit snugly across the opening.

CLICK HERE to SEE Retractable Screens of all types.

Some retractable screens are available that only block 15 percent of natural light. The housings that hide the screens are available in different colors. White, dark brown, and almond are standard colors. Some installers offer custom colors that include black, forest green, a handsome beige, and a deep grey. The plastic coated fiberglass screen is woven so that it is very strong and stops bugs, but yet allows an enormous amount of air to pass through the window opening.

I need to warn you. If you decide to install these wonderful retractable screens as I intend to do, be aware that they are made to fit on doorways as well. The housing that holds the screen is simply mounted on the side of the door jamb and the screen slides side to side instead of up and down like it will on your windows. Retractable screens are quite possibly the best kept secret that I know of!

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local window screen companies that can install retractable disappearing screens!

Column 319

Quality Dream Home Specifications

Posted on August 21, 2003 by Tim Carter

Plastic plumbing drain lines are noisy. Cast iron is a much better choice.

DEAR TIM: We bought a new builder's inventory house about six months ago. Now that we have been in the house, we have noticed all sorts of things that seem sub-standard. The floors are bouncy, the plumbing system is loud, the windows are drafty, etc. When we mention these things to the builder, he responds that the house was built to code and that we shouldn't expect perfection. We intend to build our dream home in several years. What can we do to avoid future disappointments? Kim Lee, Franklin, TN

DEAR KIM: I hear complaints like yours on a more frequent basis as each year passes. It is easy to get discouraged and think that the quality standards and craftsmanship of the entire construction industry is in a state of decline. The truth of the matter is there are still builders, tradespeople, and manufacturers who strive for perfection and try to do the best job possible on a routine basis. Unfortunately, I believe this group is a minority. To make matters worse, competition for sales and the creation of affordable housing for all segments of the marketplace often are the source of problems like yours.

The residential one and two family dwelling building code is a wonderful document. Over the years it has become more refined and detailed so that the consumer gets a better product. But keep in mind that the building code is a set of minimum standards. Frequently manufacturing and trade associations publish more stringent and detailed guidelines that exceed building code requirements. Sometimes it can be quite costly to build to a higher standard. But in many, many instances it doesn't cost that much to include different materials or labor practices that produce a finished house that will rarely disappoint a homeowner.

When you get ready to develop specifications for your dream home, consider the addition of inexpensive one half inch diameter steel bars to concrete sidewalks, driveways and patios. They will greatly enhance the strength of concrete and will help hold the concrete together when it cracks. If your house will include a basement, make sure the exterior of the foundation has a true waterproofing treatment, not the hot asphalt damp-proofing I see being installed on many foundations in my area. Consider extra height walls that produce taller finished basement ceilings.

How would you like me to build your new home? It's probably impossible for me to fit your job into my schedule, but I will gladly share hundreds of my tricks and building secrets with you and your builder. Check out my New House Specifications.

Your bouncy floors probably do meet code. If you want stiff, rigid floors, then you need to purchase joists that are wider or deeper. In other words, if your current house has 2x10 floor joists, then you might want to upgrade to 2x12 joists. You can also use engineered floor joists or floor trusses. To make sure the floors will be stiff, have a residential structural engineer verify your selection.

Plumbing system noise can be stifled by substituting cast iron for plastic in drainage pipes that handle water. To save money, the plumbing vent pipes and drainage piping below slabs can still be plastic. Water supply lines can be noisy if they are undersized. Consider increasing the size of the main feeder lines that deliver water to all fixture groups. Larger diameter pipes slow the velocity and minimize turbulence of water as it travels towards a sink, toilet, or shower. Simple fiberglass sound insulation batts wrapped around the pipes that are hidden in walls and ceiling will also muffle noise.

Not all windows meet voluntary industry standards. Purchase windows that carry the AAMA/NWWDA, or NFRC, or Energy Star label. Windows and doors can be the largest source of energy loss in the average home. You want to buy the best possible product for your dream home.

If you live in all but the driest parts of the nation and intend to use asphalt roofing, make sure you purchase algae resistant shingles. Have the roofer use 40 lb tin instead of 20 lb tin for all flashings. The high performance ice and wind blown rain barriers are excellent upgrades as well if your budget has room. Request that all face nailed exterior siding and trim be fastened with stainless steel nails instead of traditional galvanized nails.

To protect yourself completely, I urge you to obtain a copy of the residential building code. The new code is written so that it is easy to understand. It also contains many helpful diagrams and illustrations. It is in your best interest to monitor the construction process and match sections of the code to the building process. Although you are not a trained inspector or builder, you may be able to spot problems or deficiencies before they are hidden or become major problems that are expensive to correct.

A realistic and well-illustrated book for teaching basic skills needed to read, study and understand construction plans is Construction Print Reading. In this book you will find a Unit on Specifications. The sample specifications are well-organized but I don't necessarily agree with some of the technical aspects of some of them. For example, they have a sentence about concrete thickness. It states that driveways should be 4 inches thick. I feel the minimum thickness should be 5 inches. So, I suggest you use the book to give you the outline for the specs, but use my past columns and Builder Bulletins to provide you with the actual numerical value or level of quality for each area of the specifications.

If you are like me you have dreamed of owning a home away from home. Imagine when the weekend comes, hanging out in a hammock at your own lakefront cottage, boating, antiquing in a charming little town, or whiling away an afternoon on your ocean-view porch. If you have imagined these things you need Second Home: Find Your Place in the Fun (Better Homes and Gardens).

This inspiring volume will help you turn your second home fantasy into the real thing. This book will take you through tours of gorgeous homes to see how other people have created their own great escapes. There are expert tips on everything from real estate shopping to building, remodeling, and decorating. There are hundreds of spectacular color photographs of beautiful homes and great locations. As for me, I'll keep dreaming ... until those lottery numbers come through or some forgotten relative leaves an unexpected inheritance, the book will have to suffice.

Column 309

Window Cleaning | Easy to Get Pro Results

Can You Scratch Window Glass?

How Do You Clean Construction Splatter?

Why is Blue Spray Window Cleaner Inferior?

How Do Pros Clean Glass?

What is the Best Squeegee?

Why Should the Squeegee be Brass?

Should I Hire A Pro?

Expert Advice For Your Home