Leaky Outdoor Faucets

Posted on by Tim Carter

outdoor faucet leak

DEAR TIM: My outdoor frost proof hose faucet is stuck in the off position. It is dripping and I want to repair it. This same valve has always been a source of trouble and I would like to have one that is easy to operate and allows for full water flow. How can this be accomplished? My children have requested an easy way to fill water balloons as well. Any suggestions? John D., Derry, NH

DEAR JOHN: You are not alone my friend. I have had all sorts of problems in the past with outdoor hose faucets. Some of them are knuckle busters that cause scrapes on my fingers when I operate them and others just leak after a few years. Just about every traditional residential outdoor hose faucet uses old technology washers and repairing them can be a hassle. I permanently solved the problem at my own home recently. It was inexpensive and took me less than one hour.

Maximizing water flow can be achieved by using a standard ball valve. These valves are easy to find and commonly used by plumbers as shut off valves when they wish to isolate a water supply line branch. Copper tubing is soldered into each end of the valve to make a leak proof connection. These valves do not have a traditional round handle that you rotate several times to open and close the valve. A ball valve has a simple lever handle that only turns 90 degrees. (See above photo.) The handle is easy to operate, especially for older people who have arthritis.

Inside the rust proof solid brass valve is a stainless steel ball. The ball has a one half inch hole drilled through it. These valves will provide a lifetime of leak free performance. When the valve is open completely there are no obstructions nor any convoluted pathways within the valve. Water flows freely to your garden hose. On the contrary, the inside of a traditional valve often resembles a maze that the water has to twist and turn through before it exits the valve. A simple ball valve often costs less than $5.00.

You will need two valves - one for outdoors and the other one will be used indoors to make the new outdoor valve frost proof next winter. The indoor valve will need to be turned off before cold weather and the outdoor valve should be opened and left open all winter to prevent a burst pipe.

You will not be able to directly connect your garden hose to the ball valve. A special adapter is needed. To save you time and trouble finding this adapter, consider visiting a real plumbing supply house or a traditional hardware store that has a full line of plumbing fittings. This brass adapter has male three quarter inch garden hose threads on one end and male three quarter inch and female one half inch threads on the other end. This multipurpose fitting will work for either one half or three quarter inch water supply lines and costs less than $1.50.

The adapter is soldered to the ball valve with a standard copper tubing fitting that matches your ball valve pipe size. I happened to use a one half inch male adapter. Instead of using Teflon tape or pipe dope to make the connection between the two adapters I soldered them together for a permanent leak-proof connection.

The valve and these parts need to be securely fastened to your home. I happen to prefer copper stand off pipe clamps for this purpose. Match the size of this clamp to the size of your water supply line. Be sure to use stainless steel or solid brass screws to attach these clamps to your home. I use two clamps, one on either side of the valve. The two clamps also hold the valve far enough away from the house so that scraped knuckles will be a thing of the past.

I solved the water balloon filling problem at my house with a special hose nozzle. I found mine at a hardware store that had a great assortment of brass hose nozzles. This simple nozzle looks like a midget old fashioned fire hose nozzle. There is no on/off mechanism and the end of the valve reduces down to the size of a standard pencil. The balloons easily fit onto the end of this midget nozzle and the ball valve allows for rapid filling in the event you are overrun by the enemy.

Column 362

Cracks in Wood Siding

Posted on by Tim Carter
cracks in wood siding

The splits in the siding material concern me. My guess is that the siding was not installed correctly when the houses were built.

DEAR TIM: I live in a landominium development where we all have separate houses. Each house is covered with beveled cedar wood lap siding that splits for no reason. Our maintenance committee insists that all split boards be replaced before the outside of a unit is painted. This seems extreme to me. I thought cedar would be a long lasting material. Do the boards really need to be replaced or can the splits boards be caulked? Jim G., Riverside, CA

DEAR JIM: The maintenance committee is doing the right thing. The boards with splits should be replaced. These splits allow rainwater to penetrate deeply into the wood and in some instances behind the wood. Water is an enemy to painted finishes and wood that has not been treated to prevent rot. A new paint job can blister and peel within six months if enough water gets behind the wood siding. You are correct about the longevity of cedar siding. It is a wonderful renewable forest product that contains natural preservatives. But water that saturates the wood sheathing or framing lumber behind the siding may start to rot in a short amount of time.

The splits in the siding material concern me. My guess is that the siding was not installed correctly when the houses were built. Inexperienced carpenters often nail lap siding so that each piece of siding is unable to move. Lap siding is installed so that each piece overlaps the one below it. This overlap creates an excellent weather barrier so that rain water is shed from the siding. Rookie carpenters often nail along the bottom edge of the siding and this same nail pierces the top portion of the piece of siding just below.

This method of nailing pins each piece of siding and makes it nearly impossible for the siding to expand and contract with changes in the weather. Experienced carpenters know that the nails from one piece of siding must not pass through the siding below. If the overlap of the two pieces of siding is one and one quarter inches, then the nail for a piece of siding should be one and three eighths above the bottom edge. This nail spacing allows each piece of siding to float and move easily. Be sure that the painters nail the siding properly as they replace each split board.

When the split board is being replaced look to see if a water barrier membrane is in place. Years ago tar paper was used by carpenters beneath beveled lap siding. It is still a very effective material to use if you do not want water to contact the framing lumber and wall sheathing. Modern fabric water and air infiltration barriers can also be used. These products come in large rolls and are easy to recognize. If you do not see any water barrier behind the siding, then it is vitally important that new siding be installed. In this case, the siding is the only weather barrier. Felt paper and the modern fabric barriers offer an important second line of defense.

If you want to maximize the life of the houses and the paint jobs be sure that the siding is nailed with hot dipped galvanized nails or better yet, stainless steel nails. These nails have the highest corrosion resistance and are worth the extra cost. Be sure the nails are long enough so that the nail shaft penetrates at least one and one half inch into solid wood once it passes through the siding.

The paint job on the replacement piece of siding will last a very long time if the painter can paint both the back and cut edges of the wood before it is installed. When wood siding is completely covered with paint, water has a difficult time getting into the fibers. If you keep wood completely dry using this method, it becomes dimensionally stable. High quality paint will adhere to this wood for many years.

Column 363

Install Ceramic Tile

Posted on by Tim Carter

installing ceramic tile

Install Ceramic Tile

 

DEAR TIM: I would like to install 12 inch by 12 inch ceramic tile over my existing sheet vinyl floor. The cushioned vinyl would provide a wonderful flexible membrane that would absorb impact. What kind of glue should I use? What else should I do to make sure my tile floor will look like it was installed by a professional? David R., London, KY

DEAR DAVID: Stop! Installing rigid ceramic tile over something that might move is a huge mistake. The resilient vinyl flooring you now have must be removed before you install your ceramic tile. If you don't I guarantee you that numerous floor tiles will crack over time.

I discovered this the hard way years ago. One of my jobs required ceramic tile floors to be installed in a restaurant kitchen. The tile was installed over a concrete slab. But instead of using cement based thinset that dries hard, I used the trowel-on organic mastic that resembles cake icing. Organic mastic retains a slight amount of flexibility once it dries. When the kitchen equipment was placed on the floor, the tiles beneath the equipment legs cracked in short order.

Ceramic tile is very strong if you try to compress it. But if you bend it, it is very weak and will readily crack. The sheet vinyl floor will allow the tile to bend ever so slightly just as the organic mastic gave way beneath the heavy kitchen equipment. Do whatever it takes to remove the sheet vinyl and any glue that is holding it down. Adhesive removers can commonly be purchased at paint stores. These chemicals work just like traditional paint strippers to soften old glue.

If you're putting ceramic tile in your home, check out my Ceramic Tile Installation Checklist to learn exactly what you should know about the process. Avoid making costly mistakes with the help of this document. I offer a 100% Money Back Guarantee.

The large tiles you are working with are very susceptible to cracking. They are highly sensitive to imperfections in the subfloor beneath the tile. Installation instructions often tell you to make sure the floor is level. What this really means is make sure that the floor is in the same plane - as if the floor was perfectly smooth like a new piece of plate glass. Humps or dips in the floor can create small void spaces under each tile. Walking across these spots or concentrating loads at these points will cause future cracks in the tile.

You can eliminate the humps and dips by using a straightedge and floor leveling compounds. I prefer to use the cement based products that mix with water. Most of them will readily adhere to concrete floors or wood subfloors. If you intend to apply your tile on a cement board product that will be nailed to the wood subfloor, you should remove the humps and dips before you nail the cement board in place.

I use three different straightedges and my drywall finishing tools to apply the floor leveling compound. My six foot and four foot long aluminum levels make a wonderful straight edge. I also use my aluminum framing square. Place the tools at various spots on the floor to determine where the humps and dips are. These same tools can be used as large spreading tools that act like bulldozers to evenly apply the leveling compound.

Mix approximately one half gallon of the floor leveling compound with cold water. Many of them are rapid set and you must spread and tool the material within three to five minutes of mixing it. If it starts to get hard in the bucket do not add more water to try to liquify it. This will make the final product weak. Be sure the floor is dust free and slightly damp to achieve the best bonding.

If your getting ready to install tile in a shower, especially the floor of the shower, you must read my Shower Pan eBook. Failure to do so will result in possible water leaks and mold growth at your home. Who wants that?

Using regular drywall tools and a little bit of water you can achieve a smooth glass like surface as the compound hardens. Gently float the wide drywall tools over the hardening compound and it will get smoother and smoother with each stroke. Sprinkle a few drops of water on the compound to make this task easier. Practice on a small spot first until you feel like a pro. Use the straightedges to check for humps and dips in the flooring as you proceed.


Author's Note: We've received other questions with similar problems or questions. Here's one from Krystina G. of San Sebastian, PR, dealing with floor levelness.

"My husband and I have a home made completely out of cement and we want to put ceramic tiles throughout our home. The floor is not level and we wanted to know the best way to go on with leveling floors."

Column 365

Programmable Thermostats

Posted on by Tim Carter
Programmable Thermostat

My programmable thermostat works very well. It is dependable and has four different time periods that will cycle on and off each day.

Programmable Thermostats

DEAR TIM: Electricity and heating fuel prices are soaring. I need to conserve energy. Will a programmable thermostat really help me save money? How can you maximize energy savings when using one? Robin T., Auburn, NY

DEAR ROBIN: You bet a programmable thermostat can save you energy dollars. The amount of savings depends upon many factors. Some people save more than others because they fine tune the thermostat for maximum performance. But keep in mind that these wonderful thermostats can't make a silk purse out of a sow's ear. In other words, if your furnace and air conditioning system is poorly designed and not sized properly to match the heating and cooling needs of your home, the thermostat may struggle to deliver the savings and comfort you desire.

Programmable thermostats are not new. They have been around for years in one form or another. But advancements in electronics and small computer chips have allowed these instruments to become more reliable and affordable. These devices allow you to adjust the temperature in your home up to four times a day. The thermostats have a memory and will raise and lower the temperature at different times so that when you wake up or come home the house is at the desired temperature. When programmed correctly they will also adjust the temperature in the home when you have left for the day or are sleeping.

The typical programmable thermostat has four setting periods: Wake, Leave, Return, Sleep. You simply enter these times into the thermostat and then set the desired temperatures for both the heating season and cooling season if you use air conditioning. To optimize energy savings, set the thermostat back eight to ten degrees when you are away and sleeping. These work best in the heating season. You probably will find that these setbacks are too much if you are using air conditioning. For the most part, air conditioners do not recover as quickly as furnaces.

It often requires a few days to properly adjust these thermostats. You need to learn how quickly your furnace or air conditioner can recover from the set back temperature. In my own home, I have found that it takes just 30 minutes for my furnace to make up the eight degree difference. But it takes 90 minutes for it to drop the temperature just four degrees when cooling. Once you learn how long it takes to go up and down, you can program the furnace or air conditioner to turn on at the right time so that when you wake up and/or come home, the house is at the perfect temperature.

You also need to learn how long it takes to go the other direction. There is no reason why the furnace or air conditioner should be still running just before you leave the house or go to bed. The thermostat should set the temperature back some time before so that you are out the door or under the covers just before it gets uncomfortable.

Not all programmable thermostats are created equal. I suggest you buy a high quality one. Some poor quality thermostats contain electrical components that create false heat. This can cause up to an eight degree temperature difference between the actual air temperature and what the thermostat reads. The best thermostats carry an Energy Star label and cost more money because they contain high quality components.

If you have an existing programmable thermostat, look to see if it contains batteries. If so, change these batteries annually. Be sure the thermostat has indeed been programmed. Often a programmable thermostat is operating as a normal one and the interior temperature never changes. Check the thermostat periodically to see if indeed it is raising and lowering the temperature. Come home early one day to see what is going on ... or off!

Related Column: Programmable Thermostat Sources

Column 367

Brighten up Rooms with Mirrored Doors

Posted on by Tim Carter

Mirrored Closet Doors

DEAR TIM: I need to brighten up the bedrooms in my house but am really concerned about energy costs. Is there a way to add more light or create the illusion of light without giving more money to the utility company? I am on a fairly tight budget and can't afford to hire someone to make the improvements. What do you have in your bag of tricks for me? Ron F. Amelia, OH

DEAR RON: Magicians often employ smoke and mirrors to create a spectacular illusion. Forget about the smoke and consider using mirrored closet doors in the bedrooms. Not only will these doors make the rooms brighter, they will also make the rooms feel bigger. The best news of all is that these products can be very affordable and they are quite do-it-yourself friendly. You don't have to limit the use of these in bedrooms. They are excellent choices for entry hall closet doors.

Mirrored interior doors are really nothing new. For many years builders and homeowners simply purchased a large plate glass mirror and use different clips and channels to mount the mirror on the back of a door. The trouble is when the closet door was closed, the mirror was hidden from view. Placing the mirror on the room side of the door is a modern application that looks smart and distinctive. The glass is available with beveled edges and special decorative V grooves as well.

You can often add a mirror to an existing door but I feel switching out your doors and installing new mirrored door kits may be a better long term solution. The mirrored door kits tend to look much better and the glass is far safer than traditional large mirrors.

The new mirrored door kits are available in either hinged bi-fold doors or sliding by-pass doors. They are available with either full coverage frameless mirrors, doors that have a narrow metal frame, doors that have an attractive wood molding frame or doors that have a rich wood surround that are very traditional in appearance. The wood framed doors are available in cherry, whitewash oak and white ash. They will take your breath away.

Mirrored door kits come in various sizes to fit most standard openings. Standard kits reach up to eight feet tall. If you need a custom size door, some of the manufacturers will make it. This is a great option in case your current door opening is an odd size. You can get doors that fit openings as wide as twelve feet and as high as eight feet. The extra cost to make a custom door above and beyond the door kit cost is usually just $75.00.

The installation of these doors is not difficult. The doors have excellent hardware that is often pre-assembled at the factory. Typically you just have to install a top and bottom track. The by-pass or sliding doors are easier to install than the bi-fold doors. Bi-fold doors simply require tighter tolerances with respect to the opening being square and plumb. If you try to install a bi-fold door in an opening that is out of square the gap at the outer edges of the door adjacent to the wood or drywall jambs will not be consistent. The door will operate fine, but the gaps may look a little unsightly.

The mirrored door kits are not budget breakers. A simple door kit can often be purchased for less than $70.00. The top of the line wood door kits that fit the largest openings can cost over $500.00. But if you are building a new home, the eight foot tall floor to ceiling mirrored doors can actually save you and your builder money. By eliminating the drywall and framing above the doors a builder can often save up to $170.00 per closet. That is a significant savings.

Be sure to look for mirrored doors that offer jump proof rollers for the tracks. Not all mirrored door kits offer this hardware. This hardware will keep the doors on the tracks for many years to come. Poorly designed tracks and roller systems allow mirrored doors to jump the tracks regularly. There is no need for this to happen if you simply purchase the best door kits.

Companion Articles:   Mirrored Door Sizes, Specifications & Tips, Mirrored Doors & Manufacturers

A Patio of Concrete – the Right Way

Posted on by Tim Carter

A Patio of Concrete

Concrete Patio

DEAR TIM: I am building a new concrete patio. It is important to me that the patio is sized correctly and built to last a lifetime. Do you have some important design tips for patios? Does the end of the slab away from the house have to be thicker than the rest of the slab? How can I prevent the slab from tilting towards the house over time as the backfill along the house settles? Steve C., Riverside, CA

DEAR STEVE: I can't tell you how many enjoyable evenings I have spent on my patio with my wife and family. My wife and I spent a great deal of time planning the patio and it paid off. There is a special area for our table and chair set, a planting bed in one part that has a wonderful paper bark maple shade tree in it, a secondary sitting area with a glide rocker and two chairs, a barbecue grill area and still plenty of extra room to spare. You can achieve the same or similar results if you just take your time and sit and think.

Patios and decks are nothing more than outdoor rooms. The trouble is many people stake out an area 12 feet by 20 feet and think that this is a huge expanse. It does indeed look big without furniture on it. But once you place furniture on a patio this size, it starts to shrink rapidly. The truth is a 12 foot by 20 foot patio is not that big at all.

Start your planning by determining just what you want on the patio. A standard round table with chairs requires an area 12 feet by 12 feet. This will give you enough room to walk around the table as people are sitting in the chairs. Keep in mind that the patio will have paths within it that allow you to cross the patio to get to the house or to the yard. Do not place furniture in these critical areas. Use graph paper and scale cutouts of the furniture to help you plan. Pay attention to your existing dining and living rooms. Note how much space there is between chairs, end tables and your couch.

Your local building department may have special recommendations with respect to code requirements and the actual concrete slab. If there are no code requirements then I would do several things. Because you live in a very mild climate you don't have to worry about frost heaving. It was a concern of mine so I placed three inches of small rounded gravel beneath my slab to prevent water buildup under my patio. I installed a hidden pipe in the gravel at one end of my patio. This pipe extends about ten feet and eventually comes to the surface. This pipe helps keep soil moisture to a minimum and this helps to minimize, if any, frost heave.

You should pour the slab at least five inches thick. I would use nothing less than a 7 bag mix or specify 4,500 pounds per square inch strength. The more cement you have the stronger the concrete will be. Remember cement is the ingredient that holds the sand and gravel together!

In addition, I would use both steel reinforcing and fibermesh secondary reinforcing in the slab. One half inch thick steel reinforcing rods placed at two foot centers in both directions will help make your patio enormously strong. The fibermesh consists of virgin polypropylene fibers that are added at the concrete ready mix plant. These fibers help prevent plastic shrinkage and settlement cracks. Specify about two pounds per cubic yard. Place the steel rods in the center of the concrete. The steel rods will help keep the patio in one piece in the event of a crack or settlement. You can drill into the house foundation and place steel dowels that extend into the slab as well. These will help prevent settlement if the backfill does drop alongside your home.

Be sure the soil beneath the patio is compacted. Consider treating the soil for termites if you are permitted to do so. If you have a well, you need to have a professional exterminator do this chemical treatment. Avoid pouring the concrete on hot, sunny and breezy days. The best concrete pouring conditions, in my opinion, are damp overcast days with the temperature hovering around 57F. The slab must have a clear curing compound applied to it immediately after you have given it its final finish.

Column 371

Solving Low Water Pressure Problems

Posted on by Tim Carter
water line valves

Low Water Pressure - Now here is a thing of beauty. It is my main shutoff valve with a system drain cock just above it. As you can see, it would be no problem to work on this aspect of my system. I'll never have to as I installed a ball valve for the main shut off.

DEAR TIM: All of the fixtures in our three year old home have had horrible water pressure since the day we moved in. If you have two garden hoses on the second floor toilet will not flush. Our builder has not done a thing to help us. Our next door neighbor's house was built the same year and has excellent water pressure. What in the world could be so different between our two homes? Is there a way to easily diagnose the problem? Shelly W., Spokane, WA

DEAR SHELLY: What a shame your builder is ignoring the problem. An abundant supply of water is one of the most basic essentials in a new home. There most certainly is a problem and the good news is that you will have pressure and volume equal to that of your neighbor's house in short order. Since you are both tied into the same water main and their pressure and volume is fantastic, it is not unreasonable to expect identical results.

There are several things that can cause a low pressure and volume problem. Some are easy to spot while others are hidden. The first thing I would look at are all of the shut off valves from the street into your home. You need to make sure these valves are in the full open position. Two critical valves to look at are the ones on either side of the water meter. If you have an outdoor meter that is in an underground pit, you may have to purchase a special socket wrench to open the meter box cover. Visit a plumbing supply house for one of these special five point sockets.

The shut off valves at a water meter usually have a long bar on top of the valve. This bar needs to be pointing towards the center of the water meter if the meter is centered between the two valves. Often this valve rotates just 90 degrees. To make sure it is in the full open position simply turn the valve to the off position and rotate it backwards 90 degrees until it is totally open. If you choose not to operate these valves, simply call your local water works and ask them to assist you. Frequently they will do this for no cost.

In-ground water meter

You are looking at my water meter. It is in a pit in the ground. There is very little room to work. Don't mess around here if you are a rookie!

Next, check the indoor main water shut off valve. See if it is also in the full open position. Believe it or not, someone may have partially closed it years ago and never fully opened it. Stranger things have happened. If this valve is an old fashioned gate valve or one with a traditional washer and rising stem, a malfunction within the valve can cause the valve to appear to be in the full open position and yet the valve could be partially closed. This is why I prefer to use full sized ball valves that open to the full diameter of the pipe size that they are connected to. If you do not have a ball valve at the main shut off, I urge you to install one.

If all of the valves are fully open and the water pressure is still low at all locations within the house, this indicates that there is a restriction in the line. The buried portion of the water line leading to your home from the street could be crushed or crimped in one or more locations. The plumber that installed the buried line could have accidentally dropped a large rock on the line while backfilling the trench.

Although remote, there could be a large stone or pebble blocking the water line or one of the valves. The only way to determine this is to break open the water line at the water meter and see if you have excellent volume and pressure at that location. If so, you know the trouble lies between that point and your home.

The problem could also be the actual water meter. It may have an obstruction within it. This can be verified by taking the water meter out of its saddle and installing a bypass pipe. If you have excellent pressure and volume you know that the meter was the offender. But do not attempt to perform this test yourself. Virtually all meters are sealed to prevent tampering. You must have your local water works personnel perform this bypass test. Some local plumbing codes may also restrict you from working on the water lines. Be sure to consult your local plumbing inspector to find out what you can and can not do yourself.

Termite

Posted on by Tim Carter
termite floor joist

When checking for termites, closely inspect the rim joists around a home and the first two or three feet of floor joist. Use an ice pick or other sharp metal probe to see if the joists are solid.

DEAR TIM: I am interested in buying a home that has a history of termite infestation. The pests were treated by a professional but I am unsure of what type of treatment was done. Is it foolish to buy this house? Are there other tests I should perform before making an offer? Is there a way to permanently eradicate termites from a home? Barry H., Scranton, PA

DEAR BARRY: Many pest control professionals have a saying that I feel is highly accurate - "There are two types of houses. Ones that have had termites and those that will." But there are precautionary measures homeowners can take to hopefully prove the professionals wrong. As for the merits of purchasing the house, I would say that you still need to gather more data before consummating the deal.

Termite Colonies

Termites are a highly intelligent and destructive insect. Each year, new termite colonies form and these along with existing ones cause hundreds of millions of dollars in damage to businesses and homes. Even steel and concrete skyscrapers are not immune. Termites don't discriminate. They will eat the paper on the back of drywall in these buildings as easily as they might eat a wood stud or floor joist in a single family home.

The social system within each colony is impressive. At its center is a queen termite that stays busy laying thousands of eggs. In addition to the queen, colonies have reproductives, soldiers and worker termites. The reproductive termites are the ones that swarm each spring and summer and leave a colony to form a new one. Soldier termites always stick around the nest and defend the colony against invaders. The worker termites are the ones with an appetite.

Termite infestation? Pick the best exterminator using my Termite and Carpenter Ant Checklist. I offer a 100% Money Back Guarantee.

Worker Termites

We all need to worry about the workers. Worker termites travel from the colony through a vast network of underground tunnels and gather food for themselves and all of the other termites who stay back at the colony. The workers forage for food constantly and randomly. They munch on your wood and then take it back to the rest of the colony. The workers are always in search of new food sources. This is a self-preservation mechanism and provides them with wholesome fresh food on a regular basis. Just because termites have visited this home in the past - and may show up again in the future - doesn't mean you should walk away from the deal. If repairs can bring the house back to sound condition, the house may be a good buy.

To determine the condition of the home I would make an offer to purchase contingent upon the inspection of no less than two different individuals. A top quality pest control person can often be hired to inspect for the presence of active or past termite activity. In your case you know that the house has had past activity but a new colony may have formed nearby and possibly defeated any past termiticide treatments. I would also insist on an inspection by a registered professional structural engineer.

This person can assess the structure of the house and tell you if the house needs any repair work. Use the reports generated by these two people to help you arrive at a fair purchase price. The reports may recommend additional termite treatments and structural repairs. It is not uncommon for the purchase price to be reduced by the total sum of these goods and services.

Termite Infestation

There are numerous methods to minimize and eliminate termite infestation. Professional pest control companies can inject traditional barrier chemicals in and around the soil to repel foraging termites. You can also install colony elimination system that actually kill off a colony by slowly killing the worker termites who ingest poisonous bait. This method has become highly popular and over 50 percent of all termite treatments done in the USA today use a colony elimination system.

Not all colony elimination systems are created equal. Some are chemicals that are injected into the ground, some are chemical laden stakes that are driven into the soil and others have monitoring stations that require periodic inspections. Price is generally a great barometer of performance. The more money you spend for a colony elimination system, typically the better it will perform.

Keeping termites away from your home forever may be a daunting task. New colonies form each spring. You need to constantly monitor your home and inspect periodically for infestation. A colony elimination system may kill one colony now but it may need to be permanently maintained to kill future invaders.

Author's Note: We've received other emails with similar problems or questions. Here's one from Aaron S. of Los Angeles, CA, regarding termite fumigation.

"My house was fumigated for termites covered with a tent etc. After removing the tent two days later, we entered our house but there was no odor of gas at all.  A while later, we saw insects, spiders, roaches etc. moving around. The fumigation company claims that they mix a substance with the gas so that it will not have an odor. My question: Shouldn't there be a gas odor and dead insects? We can't see the termites inside the wall, but we feel that if all the insects are still alive, probably the termites are not dead either. Please, let us hear you opinion. Thank you very much!"

Doing a little online checking, the chemical used during termite fumigation is targeting only termites. It will not kill spiders, ants, bed bugs or cockroaches. So Aaron, you may still see other insects moving around.

Column 373

Roof Maintenance

Posted on by Tim Carter

roof maintenance

Roof Maintenance

DEAR TIM: In a perfect world, I would think that a roof would require little or no care. Is that the case? Do I need to maintain my roof just like other parts of my home? If so, what should I do and how often should I do it. What are the common roof trouble spots? Frank M., Portland, OR

DEAR FRANK: There are a few perfect places on the planet, that have ideal conditions for those who have no interest in roof care and maintenance. One of them is the Atacama Desert in Chile. Portions of this desert rarely, if ever, get rainfall. It is considered by many to be the driest place in the world. Since most of us don't live there, our roofs are quite possibly one of the most important components that keep us and our possessions protected from the weather. I suggest you pay attention to your roof, if you want to stay dry on a regular basis.

Not all roof materials are created equal. Some materials require very little, if any care. Among those are slate, metal, tile and other similar durable materials. Metal roofing materials, that contain steel, need to be protected with a tin or zinc alloy or highly durable paints to stop rust. Copper and stainless steel roofing is rustproof, but it can wear out over time as will all roofing materials. Unfortunately, the roofing materials that are the most durable come with a price tag that will take your breath away.

Asphalt based materials are by far the most common roofing product in the USA. Many of these will last for 35 years or longer, if applied according to manufacturers specifications. I think they are an incredible bargain. Asphalt shingles also last longer on steeper sloped roofs. These roofs shed water faster and this helps extend the life span of the asphalt products. Excellent under roof ventilation will also help extend the life of an asphalt shingle roof. This air movement in the attic space allows the roof deck to stay as cool as possible.

It is a good idea to perform at the very minimum an annual roof inspection. Mother Nature always bats last and she can force water into your home any number of ways. Furthermore, workmanship defects can cause problems to appear at any given time.

The biggest problem areas tend to be roof flashings. Flashings are transitional roof materials that connect roofs to other parts of the house. You will find flashings at chimneys, plumbing vent pipes, and locations where roofs touch up against a vertical wall that rises above the roof. Inspect these flashings and look for rust, cracks, or other openings where water may enter. In my opinion tin and copper make the best flashing material because these metals can be soldered. Never use aluminum flashing material in brick or masonry. The alkaline chemicals in the mortar corrode the metal. If you see caulk or roofing cement around flashings, it is a strong possibility that trouble is just around the corner.

Have a leaking roof? Find a professional to fix it using my Roofing Replacement / Repair Checklist. I offer a 100% Money Back Guarantee.

 

nail pop on roof shingleCheck the entire roof surface and look for nails that have popped up through the roofing. Believe me, it can and does happen! Look for loose or cracked shingles. Pay attention to the recessed groove areas in between each individual shingle. The top of this knockout or groove is usually the first place you will see loss of the small colored granules. Once the colored granules disappear, the asphalt below is subject to accelerated deterioration.

roof shingle mold

 

Moss and lichen buildup on roofs can also be a problem, especially on asphalt roofing. These organic materials can keep the roofing material damp for extended amounts of time and this causes premature failure of the roof. Moss and lichen buildup can often be removed by using a garden hose with a good nozzle. Direct a concentrated stream of water at the growth deposits, but always aim the water down the roof. Never direct water up under roofing materials. Once the roof is clean, you can minimize future growth by installing copper strips near the top of the roof. Each time it rains, small invisible amounts of copper are deposited on the roof. This acts as a poison and inhibits moss and lichen growth.

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Pre Hung Interior Doors

Posted on by Tim Carter
3 in screw into door jamb

Prehung Doors | Here is a trick worth its weight in gold. Drive a 3-inch long screw behind the upper hinge through the door jamb and into the rough frame.

Prehung Interior Doors

DEAR TIM: I want to save some money on an upcoming project. It seems to me that I could successfully hang interior pre-hung doors if I had some guidance. Surely it can't be that hard to do. Of course I want the doors to operate smoothly from now on. What must I do to get trouble free door operation? Scott J., Tiffin, OH

DEAR SCOTT: Hanging interior prehung doors can be somewhat challenging. Don't underestimate the complexity of the job by any means. Fortunately it requires a few simple tools and a minimum of materials. Gather up a two and a four foot level, a hammer, a nail set, a screw-gun, a small square, a bundle of wood shims, a pound of eight penny finish nails and several three inch long drywall screws.

Prehung interior doors have much of the work done for you when you receive them. But there is still some work to do to get a perfect fit. Typically the manufacturer will leave some extra length on each of the side jambs. This is done on purpose so you can adjust for a floor that is out of level across the width of the door opening. This is the first thing to check for.

You do this with a two foot level. If the floor is out of level across the opening, this means that one of the jamb legs - the one on the high side of the opening - will need to be shortened. If you fail to make this adjustment in length, one of the jamb legs will end up floating in the air as you begin to secure the jambs to the rough opening.

The door slab itself is almost always perfectly square. The trick is to adjust and support the jamb in the rough opening so that the spacing between the jambs and the door is consistent all the way around the door. You start the job on the hinge jamb.

Use the four foot level to check the hinge side rough opening to see if it is plumb. If it is not, don't worry too much. If it is out of plumb, try to measure how much and where it is out of plumb. You will need to know this so that you can insert the proper amount of shims between the jamb and the rough opening as you start to hang the door.

(Editor's Note: Read about Don's issue with his door opening not being square.)

Position the door and the jamb in the rough opening and use one or two eight penny nails to temporarily tack the hinge jamb into place. Use the level and necessary shims to get the hinge jamb as plumb as possible. Be sure that the door jambs are flush with the finished wall surfaces on both sides of the wall. Ideally you would like to see the jamb project beyond the finished wall surface by about 1/32nd of an inch.

Slide shims as necessary between the jamb and the rough frame at each hinge location. Tack the door in place with additional nails and close the door. Stand on a ladder and check the top of the door to see if the spacing between the door and jamb is equal across the entire width. It should be a 1/8 inch gap or so. You should have a similar gap on the hinge side. If the top gap is not consistent, you need to readjust the length of one of the side jambs.

Once the gap on the hinge jamb and top is the same, you work on the latch or door knob jamb. Simply slide shims between the jamb and the rough opening until the gap is consistent and the door operates smoothly. If you are satisfied, nail the jamb in place at the shim locations. The space between the shims should not exceed 24 inches if possible.

The key to years of trouble free service is to screw the hinge jamb to the rough opening. Without screws, repeated operations can cause the door to sag slightly. I prefer to hide the screws behind the hinges. All you have to do is remove the screws from one hinge at a time on the door jamb. Gently pry the hinge out of the jamb and install a long drywall screw through the jamb into the solid wood of the rough opening. It is an old carpenter's trick I learned long ago.

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