How to Repair Chipped Tile

Posted on February 9, 2017 by Tim Carter

How to Repair Chipped Tile TIPS

Use Stain Solver to clean the chipped tile
Paint with high-gloss paint to match tile
WATCH tile repair video below
Fill depression with clear epoxy
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DEAR TIM: I dropped a glass on our new tile and put a chip in one of the tiles. The chipped tile is part way under the refrigerator and we don't want to put in a new tile.

The inside of the tile is very dark, but the top glazed surface on all of the other tile is a white/tan color. Is there anyway we can fill the chipped place and do some kind of repair job? Ann A., Estero, FL

DEAR ANN: It's absolutely possible to repair this chipped tile.

If you're patient and have some decent hand-eye coordination, you can very possibly accomplish a repair that will fool everyone unless you draw their attention to the exact spot of the accident.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local handymen who can repair your chipped tile.

Simple Materials

The first step is to gather the needed materials for the job. You'll need the following:

CLICK HERE to get a wonderful primer / sealer that's easy to use and dries fast.

This clear primer sealer is perfect to seal the absorbent inner core of the chipped tile. CLICK THE IMAGE NOW TO ORDER SOME.

You'll get the finish paint at a top-quality local paint store. Your challenge will be to get a great color match. This may take a few attempts.

Hopefully you have a piece of spare tile you can take with you to the paint store. If not, you'll have to use the color chip samples and get as close as possible.

CLICK HERE to get a great two-part quick-setting epoxy I've used for years. It's a great product.

I use this brand of clear epoxy all the time. It's a great product and will work well on your chipped tile. CLICK THE IMAGE NOW TO ORDER IT.

Clean Tile

Stain Solver is MADE in the USA with USA ingredients that are food-grade quality. CLICK THE IMAGE to order some NOW.

I prefer to use Stain Solver to clean tile and grout. It's a deep cleaner that's certified organic.

You mix Stain Solver with warm tap water and stir. Apply some of the solution to the chipped area of the tile and allow it to soak.

After 15 minutes, scrub the tile and chipped area and rinse. Use a hair dryer for several minutes to ensure the tile is completely dry.

Even when you think it is dry, continue to blow warm air over the chipped area for 15 minutes. The exposed tile can soak up lots of water and it may take a while to wick out all of the moisture from the tile. It's best to wait 24 hours before proceeding.

You need the tile and chipped area perfectly clean so the next materials bond permanently to the tile.

Seal Porous Tile

Once the tile is dry, use a very small brush and carefully apply some of the primer/sealer to just the chipped area of the tile. Don't get any on the upper glazed surface immediately adjacent to the chipped depression.

Don't apply so much that you end up with a puddle of paint in the chipped area.

The primer / sealer is going to allow you to make sure you get a perfect color match with the glossy paint you'll be using.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local handymen who can repair your chipped tile.

Finish Paint

Wait an hour and then apply a coat of finish paint in the same manner as you applied the primer/sealer. Once again do not get any on the glazed surface of the tile and don't apply any excess paint so it puddles in the chipped area.

The purpose of this step is to see if you've got a perfect color match. You don't want to discover at the final step the paint doesn't match.

Wait for the paint to dry and check the color against the adjacent tile that's not chipped.

Be sure to check the color in different light, both night and day. If the color is off, do what you need to do to get the paint to match.

Epoxy

Once you have a great color match it's time to install the epoxy. The epoxy is going to be built up so the depression created by the chip is filled in.

Carefully squirt out equal amounts of each part of the epoxy onto a scrap of cardboard and mix it very well. I prefer to use a toothpick for this task. Be sure the chipped tile area is lighted very well so that you can see what you're doing.

Tile Repair Video

I taped this video a few years before refined my method of repairing chipped tiles. That means what you see in the video will not match exactly what you read here. Follow the steps you read here for perfection, but still watch the video.

The video shows you how to use the Stain Solver and how easy it is to use the clear epoxy. It's worth watching.

Precision Work

Apply the epoxy with the tip of a toothpick being very careful to only get it in the chipped area. Carefully dab a small amount of epoxy at a time and add just enough so the top of the epoxy is level with the top of the tile. It usually takes an hour for the epoxy to fully set.

You may need to apply two layers of epoxy to get the surface to match the adjacent tile. You can apply the second layer in just 30 minutes.

Final Paint

Allow the epoxy to set for about eight hours. Paint the epoxy patch and sit back and pat yourself on the back for a job well done!

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local handymen who can repair your chipped tile.

Column EM0007

New Home Construction Checklist

Posted on February 9, 2017 by Tim Carter

New Home Construction Checklist

Prevents oversights & poor practices
Saves money
Easy to use
Links to more information
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Would you like to have a checklist of some of the top things I've discovered make the perfect, or near-perfect home?

Can you imagine waving a magic wand and having my years of experience at your fingertips?

It's possible. You can access the tips just below.

Must-Have Tips

I've tried to collect as many of the tricks and tips I've discovered from building new homes and fixing defects in those that weren't build so well by other builders.

The top tips are in my checklist. When you see them all, you'll understand why it's important to make sure you include as many of them as you can in your new home.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local architects and designers that can help you plan the perfect home.

Save Thousands of $$$

Just one of the items in the checklist could save you thousands of dollars in the future. Here's an example:

Ceramic Tile Backer Board - Avoid using green board drywall. It's not waterproof. When the paper rots after getting wet, the tile WILL FALL from the wall.

Use pure cement board or GP DensShield, or equivalent, waterproof board.

If you're forced to use green board, you can try to make the green board more water resistant, but it may not last forever. CLICK HERE for more information about this topic.

Peace Of Mind

See how that one tip could save you vast amounts of money? What do you think it's going to cost you in five years to replace all that ceramic tile in all your bathrooms that were placed over the crap green board?

Here are four more checklist items:

Building Lot - Does your lot have superb drainage? Is your lot susceptible to flash flooding?

The ideal lot has at least 4 feet of fall across it so water runs away from your home.

Lots at, or near, the bottom of a V-shaped gentle valley are where water runs. This valley, before homes were there, had water in it during periods of heavy rain.

CLICK HERE for more information about building lots.

CLICK HERE for more information about how to read topo maps about ground slope.

Concrete Slabs - Will your new concrete driveway and patio resist large cracks? Will the surface of the concrete not crumble?

Outdoor concrete should contain reinforcing steel, either 1/2-inch rebar or mesh. This holds the concrete together.

Slab thickness should be 5 inches minimum for driveways and patios.

Water added at the job site can dilute the Portland cement in the concrete mix. Don't allow finishers to sprinkle water on the concrete as they finish it.

CLICK HERE for more information about reinforcing steel in concrete.

CLICK HERE for more information about finishing concrete.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local architects and designers that can help you plan the perfect home.

Bath Fan Vents - Will your bathroom fan vents exit the house at the right location? Will the builder use inferior flexible accordion-style plastic pipe or solid-steel pipe?

Bath fan exhaust needs to be vented to the outdoors. The best place is out of the roof if you live where you get little snow. If you're in a snow region, vent it out a sidewall away from a roof overhang. Never vent a fan at a soffit.

Bath fans should be vented using solid galvanized pipe or smooth PVC pipe. Joints need to be sealed and the pipe needs insulation if in a cold climate.

CLICK HERE for more information about bathroom exhaust fans.

Roof Ventilation - Will your new home have continuous ridge vents? Did you know these don't work to exhaust hot air in the summer?

Continuous ridge vent is over hyped. You can have it installed but you should also install at least two 14-inch turbine vents. Turbine vents can suck all the air out of an attic in less than an hour providing excellent ventilation. They're inexpensive too.

CLICK HERE for more information about time-tested turbine vents.

Instant Hot Water - Will your new home have a simple return loop so you can have a gravity hot-water recirculation system? Are you being pressured to buy a tankless water heater?

A good plumber can install a simple length of pipe from the fixture farthest away from the water heater back to the heater in just a few hours. This pipe creates a loop so you can have hot water in two seconds each time you need it.

Tankless water heaters consume energy at a rate three times higher than a traditional storage water heater. They burn at this rate for however long you have a hot water faucet open. Many people who have tankless water heaters see higher fuel bills.

CLICK HERE for more information about a gravity hot-water loop.

CLICK HERE for more information about tankless water heaters.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local architects and designers that can help you plan the perfect home.

CLICK HERE to purchase many other tips, checklist items and helpful suggestions that will guide you as you plan your new home!

Small Engine Care and Storage Tips

Posted on February 9, 2017 by Tim Carter

Gum and varnish build-up inside a small engine carburetor will eventually lead to problems. The secret tips below are SO GOOD I shared them with 31,000 subscribers who read my November 15, 2020 FREE newsletter. Copyright 2018 Tim Carter

"Gasoline begins to degrade about thirty days after it's pumped."

Small Engine Care and Storage TIPS

Use ethanol-free gasoline
Thousands of stations sell it
Use best fuel stabilizer
Keep gas tanks filled all the time
CLICK HERE to Get Tim's FREE & FUNNY Newsletter!

Want to listen to this column? Use the following audio player:

DEAR TIM: Spring has finally arrived in the high country here. It's time to cut the grass, but the small gasoline engine on my lawn mower refuses to start. I use the same gasoline that goes in my truck, and my truck always starts.

My guess is that you work with small engines all the time and know what the problem might be and how to prevent it.

What's the best way to store a small engine for months so when it's time to use it you can depend on it starting? Don G., Baker, NV

DEAR DON: I used to have hard-start issues with small engines. I've also had small engines that refused to start no matter how much starting fluid you squirt in the air filter.

How Can I Start Engine First Pull?

You can have your small engine start first pull if you do the following:

store the engine with a full tank of gas
use 91 octane or higher gas with stabilizer
start the engine every 30-45 days to keep fuel in the carburetor

Years ago I discovered a trick that ensures my small engines start the first pull each time I take them out of winter or summer storage.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local handymen that can clean your small engine carburetor.

Your truck starts all the time because you drive it frequently and the gasoline in the tank and fuel system are almost always fresh. If you add gasoline to your truck every thirty days, you'll rarely have problems.

People that don't drive their cars much should absolutely continue reading because they need to do what I do with my small engines.

Did You Talk With a Briggs & Stratton Engineer?

I decided that I'd blend my years of personal experience with the vast knowledge base of Briggs & Stratton's Wayne Rassel, an engineer, to shed some light on how to store small engines. I have small engines in snow blowers, a lawn mower, a hydraulic log splitter and a standby generator. All the engines sit idle for months at a time, so it's important that they respond when I need them.

What are the Best Storage Practices?

I discovered a simple trick years ago that allows my engines to start each time I pull the starting cord. But information I got from Wayne has caused me to modify my approach to storing small gasoline engines.

Now I incorporate the best practices known to woman or man about how to ensure small engines start.

Is Ethanol BAD for Small Engines?

Yes, ethanol is very bad for small engines and even larger ones like in your car or light truck.

The gasoline you and I purchase contains 10-percent ethanol. Using gasoline that contains more than 10-percent ethanol can cause significant damage to small engines, so avoid it at all costs.

If you want to put the best gas in your small engines, get ethanol-free gasoline.

Where Can You Find the Best Gasoline?

There is a website called pure-gas.org that has a list of over 10,000 locations, broken down by states or provinces, that sell pure, ethanol-free gas.

If you can't locate a station near you, just visit your local small airport. All aviation gasoline is ethanol-free. You can buy great gasoline at any small airport.

Some boat marinas may also sell ethanol-free gasoline.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local handymen that can clean your small engine carburetor.

Does Gasoline Break Down?

Gasoline begins to degrade about thirty days after it's pumped. If you've not used all the gasoline in your gas cans within that time frame, pour it into your truck's fuel tank and drive to the gas station to get fresh fuel for your small engines.

That's what I do. I never put gasoline in my small engines that's older than thirty days.

What is the Chemistry of Gasoline?

Understand that ethanol-based fuels tend to attract water. Water is heavier than gasoline.

IMPORTANT TIP: If you don't operate your engines on a frequent basis, a layer of ethanol-enriched water can settle to the bottom of the tank and be drawn up into the carburetor and engine.

This water-ethanol blend is highly corrosive to small engine parts.

How Does Gum & Crap Form?

Gum and varnish, chemical compounds in the gasoline, form as the fuel degrades. This gum and varnish can lead to stuck intake valves, clogged fuel lines and jets in the carburetor.

This could be why your engine is refusing to start. It could be clogged with this gunk.

Should the Tank Be Filled at All Times?

I keep my small engines in great shape by keeping the gas tank filled to the brim at all times. I do this after I shut the engine off.

I do this even if I'm going to use the engine in a week. Keeping the tank filled with fuel minimizes the oxygen in the tank.

Oxygen reacts with gasoline causing degradation.

BEST Storage Tip - Fill 'er Up With Stabilized 91-Octane Gas

At the end of each season, I discovered that if I ran the engine completely out of gas right before storing it for months, I'd be able to restart the engine with no issues. However, after talking with Wayne, I've decided that state-of-the-art fuel treatments and stabilizers are probably the best way to protect my small engines throughout the entire year.

You also want to use 91-octane gasoline too unless you go to a local small airport and get higher octane gas with NO ethanol in it. Ethanol is NOT permitted in small-aircraft engines so I'm told.

What About Modern Stabilizers?

Some modern fuel additives have a triple anti-oxidant formulation that slows down the fuel degradation issue. The chemicals in the additives react with the gasoline preventing outside water vapor from causing the gasoline to deteriorate.

The additives protect the entire fuel system and all engine parts exposed to the gasoline. Metal parts receive a protective coating that prevent rust and corrosion.

This is the brand I use to keep my small engines in great shape. CLICK or TAP HERE or the image to have it delivered to your home.

Metal deactivators in the additives stop aggressive chemical reactions caused by dissolved metal ions in the fuel. Detergents in the additives help prevent the formation of the gum and varnishes that cause hard or no-starting issues.

You can get long-lasting results if you decide to use the advanced formula fuel stabilizers. If you want two years of protection, just add one-half ounce to each 2.5 gallons of gasoline. Double the amount of stabilizer and you can protect gasoline up to three years.

Since I take a conservative approach to small engine care and maintenance, I'm going to start to add the fuel stabilizer to all my gasoline. I want to protect the metal parts in my engine. The fuel stabilizers are not expensive, and one 8-ounce bottle treats up to 40 gallons of gasoline. Believe me, I can blow lots of snow and cut lots of grass with 40 gallons of gasoline!

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local handymen that can clean your small engine carburetor.

A small engine reminder was featured in my June 25, 2013, April 13, 2014 and my January 25, 2017 AsktheBuilder Newsletter.

Column 992

Washing Machine Water Valve Stuck

Posted on February 9, 2017 by Tim Carter

Here are two ball valves that control the hot and cold water into my washing machine. I have them up above the machine in view so it's easy to operate. I also exercise them once a month so they don't get stuck. Copyright 2017 Tim Carter CLICK THE IMAGE NOW TO ORDER BALL VALVES.

Washing Machine Water Valve TIPS

Locate main water shut-off valve
Install ball valves
WATCH soldering videos below
Keep valves visible
CLICK HERE to Get Tim's FREE & FUNNY Newsletter!

DEAR TIM: One of my washing machine water valves is stuck and I can't turn it. The other water inlet valve that supplies cold water to our washing machine drips slowly and water accumulates on the round handle.

I see a hex nut at the base of the stem that connects the handle to the valve body. What happens if I turn that nut?

Will I be forced to replace the valve? If so, what is the best type of valve to buy and why? How do you solder the new valve? Greg H., Atlanta, GA

DEAR GREG: Let's stop the leaking valve first then deal with the stuck valve.

Turn The Nut

If you turn the nut counterclockwise looking down on top of the valve, the leak will get drastically worse. If you turn it clockwise, perhaps one-eighth of a full revolution, there is a good chance the leak will stop.

See far below some additional tips from Connie on dealing with old packing nuts.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local plumbers who do repair work.

Packing Nuts Old Technology

The nut in question is called a packing nut. It's the component of an old, and old-technology, valve that serves to keep water from squirting into the room. The actual stem that connects the handle to the valve is surrounded by a packing material.

This material must be compressed around the stem and the inside of the valve to keep pressurized water from leaking out of the valve body past the stem. The nut you see provides this compression when it is tightened.

Packing Dries Out

The packing material can dry out over the years and lose it's leak-stopping super powers.

IMPORTANT TIP: The packing around a valve stem can wear out. You may stop the leak as soon as you tighten the nut, but the next time you open and close the valve be sure to inspect it every hour or so.

It's possible for the valve to leak again and again. At some point you will reach the limit of tightening the packing nut and water will drip no matter how tight you have turned it. This happens when the packing material has reached the end of its useful life.

Stuck Valves

I got my master plumber certification before I was thirty years old. I've always loved plumbing.

Before you even attempt to open that stuck valve, go and locate your main water shut-off valve. Be sure that valve works. In fact, turn off all the water to your home before you try to wrestle with the stuck valve.

Many a homeowner has caused a massive gushing mess by breaking a valve or pipe where it connects to the valve by applying too much pressure to unstick it.

Don't be that person filing an insurance claim.

Use A Wrench

Get a pipe wrench and attach it to the valve handle. If the valve is inside on of the tiny recessed washing machine boxes, you're pretty much toast. You'll never get a wrench into that spot to be able to do any good.

You can try any tool you can think of to turn the valve. I'll wager you'll have less than a 25% chance of success.

And even if you do get it unstuck, there's a chance the calcification inside the valve parts will not work to completely shut off the water.

If the valve is really old, you'll end up snapping the valve stem.

Cheap Stem Valves

Based upon your description of the existing valve, it sounds like you have a fairly common shut off valve. These valves are very inexpensive and fraught with maintenance headaches as you now know.

Often when you want the valve to stop the flow of water, it will not do so as the rubber or plastic washer hidden within the valve has worn out. The valve seat inside the valve can also become encrusted with sediment.

Ball Valves Are Best

If you want a shut off valve that is virtually maintenance free, you should seriously consider replacing your existing valve with a ball valve. These shut off valves are constructed differently than the valve you have.

The inside of a ball valve is just that - a stainless steel ball that has a hole bored through the middle of the metal sphere. A shaft is welded to this ball that connects to a flat handle.

When you rotate the handle just 90 degrees, the valve turns completely on or off. If you rotate the handle anywhere in between, you get partial or controlled water flow.

Hard Plastic Seat

Ball valves have a wonderful hard plastic seat that surrounds the entire ball. It's not much different than the hip joint in our own bodies.

The fit between the ball and the plastic seat is so precise that each time you move the handle, the valve cleans itself of any and all deposits.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local plumbers who do repair work.

Full Flow

Another advantage of ball valves is full water flow. The diameter of the hole in the ball is often identical to the size of the water line that feeds the valve. This full-bore opening provides for unrestricted water flow through the valve. The valve you have now does not offer this advantage.

New Nylon Packing

Ball valves also have a small packing nut that sometimes requires adjustment. But once tightened, they rarely leak again.

The packing is a synthetic hard plastic or nylon. They can last for decades with no leaks.

Low Cost

The ball valves also cost just one or two dollars more than a conventional shut off valve, so in my opinion they are worth every penny. In fact, I would gladly pay even more money for the years of leak and trouble-free performance they deliver.

My washing machine is served with ball valves that give me enormous peace of mind.

Exercise the Valves

To prevent valves from getting stuck, you need to exercise them. This means you need to operate the valve. It's a good idea to do this twice a year. With modern technology, there's all sorts of ways you can set reminder to do this.

Burst-Proof Hoses

Furthermore, I installed burst-proof water supply hoses from the valves to the washing machine. These rubber hoses are sheathed with stainless steel fabric that prevents them from breaking. I urge you to install these hoses when you replace your valves. CLICK HERE to see an assortment of burst-proof stainless-steel washing machine hoses.

This is the brand of stainless-steel braided washing machine hose I use. I've never had a failure with this brand. CLICK THE IMAGE NOW TO BUY THIS HOSE. You may need two of them.

Soldering

Soldering a ball valve onto copper water lines is easy. The water lines must be void of any water so be sure to turn off the main water valve in your home and drain the system.

Soldering Copper & Valves Video

Watch these videos to see how to solder and a great torch to use to solder.

Clean Fittings & Pipe

The ball valves and copper tubing must be cleaned with sandpaper or a wire brush to remove all oxidation. Apply a light coat of soldering flux paste to the copper tubing and the inside surface of the ball valve.

Close Ball Valve

Insert the copper tubing into the valve and make sure it is fully seated. Rotate the handle and close the ball valve. Doing this helps maintain the shape of the plastic seat within the valve as you heat the valve with the torch.

Solder Both Sides

Be sure to insert an additional piece of copper tubing into the other end of the valve and solder both sides of the ball valve at the same time.

Lead-Free Solder

Use lead-free solder to create the soldered joint. Apply uniform heat with a torch to the ball valve body and to the tubing. You should heat the valve so that solder will melt and flow freely into the joint when the torch flame is removed from the valve and tubing. Once you have soldered both joints, use a dry rag to gently remove any molten solder drops that are hanging from the joint.

Cool Down Quickly

Immediately apply a damp rag to the body of the ball valve. Be very careful since hot steam will be created as the stored heat in the valve flash heats the water in the rag. This moist rag cools the ball valve slowly so that you do not overheat the plastic seat within the ball valve body.

Install Balls Everywhere

Ball valves can and should be used at many locations within a home. A ball valve absolutely should be used as the primary shut off valve for the main water line of your home.

It's easy for plumbers to install a ball valve for use as the shut off valve under every plumbing fixture. A simple adapter can be soldered to the copper tubing leaving the valve that allows you to attach a flexible water line between the valve and any fixture.

Reliable

One of the best things about ball valves is their reliability. As a traditional valve ages, the inner parts can corrode and fail as you turn the valve handle. The inside of most ball valves are made from plastic and stainless steel.

Neither of these materials will corrode. I have turned the handle of a ball valve that had not been touched for fifteen years and it worked as if I had installed it the day before. Ball valves rock!

Author's Notes:

I was very fortunate to receive a letter from Connie Dearolf who lives and works in Trenton, NJ. Connie works for the Trenton Water Works as a meter repair person and read the above column with great interest.

She scolded me for not including the following tips. I did write her back and tried to explain that newspapers hold me to a specific column length and one simply can't include all of the information one might like to. But here are some helpful things Connie thought all should know:

"....three things you didn't mention regarding stopping leaks at a valve packing nut:

If tightening the nut does not stop the leak you can put Teflon tape on the stem threads. Wrap the tape clockwise.
If Teflon tape doesn't stop the leak, you can purchase packing at a local plumbing supply store. Use the string-like packing to repack the nut.
Be careful about tightening the nut too tight! It can crack and you will be forced to replace the packing nut or the entire valve.

Additionally, you didn't mention another common problem with gate valves, especially older ones. If you close a gate valve too tightly, the gate may drop and break off of the stem. It will be permanently in the closed position......" Connie Dearolf, Trenton, NJ

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local plumbers who do repair work.

Column 484

How To Connect Cabinets

Posted on February 9, 2017 by Tim Carter

How to Connect Cabinets

Correct tools are a must
Ratchet or screw clamps, not squeeze
Pilot hole and countersink bit needed
Wall cabinets first
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DEAR TIM: I’m on a very tight budget and remodeling my kitchen by myself. I’m having great difficulty connecting my cabinets together. After numerous attempts, there are gaps in between the face frames and the front faces of the cabinets don’t line up.

What am I doing wrong? How can I get professional results? Also, what’s the best order to install cabinets, both wall and base cabinets? Amy M. Waterville, OH

DEAR AMY: Your question brought back strong flashback memories of my early days in the remodeling and building business.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local finish carpenters who install cabinets.

My First Attempt

I clearly remember the first job I had installing kitchen cabinets. I was pulling my hair out having the exact same issues as you’re experiencing. Once I saw the face of the cabinet frames go out of alignment, I knew I had to do something different.

Then there was the time I split the cabinet frame because I failed to drill a pilot hole deep enough.

Oh, and then there was the time I snapped off a screw halfway because the pilot hole was too narrow and the dense oak wood frame won the battle of friction.

Only through trial and error did I finally develop a system that produced professional results every time.

No Clamp Syndrome

My guess is you’re having issues because you’re trying to hold the cabinets together with your hands as you drill the screw pilot holes through the edges of the face frames. No matter how hard you squeeze all seems well until you then drive the screw. As you tighten the screw, the cabinet face frames move out of alignment. Am I close?

Shavings - You Gotta Hate Them

To add insult to injury, my guess is you’re getting small shavings of wood from the drilling operation in between the cabinets. That makes it impossible to have a tight seam between the cabinet frames.

The only way to prevent shavings is to have the face frames be as tight as possible with no gap as you drill the pilot hole through the one frame and then into the adjacent cabinet frame.

The clamps never are removed until the screws are tight.

Ratchet Or Screw Clamps

The solution I’ve used for years are ratcheting squeeze clamps that have hard rubber pads that won’t harm the cabinets. These clamps, when installed properly, temporarily hold the cabinets together stronger than the grip of Ironman™! The best clamp I've ever used is the one you see in the photo below.

It's got a unique cam on the rotating handle. You open the handle so it's in the same orientation as the long bar.

The next step is to adjust the jaws so they're pretty tight on the two things you want to clamp. You should have the two face frames as tight as possible at this point. You then rotate the handle and as you approach about 60 degrees, the clamp really begins to squeeze tightly.

If you can't locate a cam ratchet clamp, then go with the screw type but be sure you use a block of oak wood to protect the one face frame. You can crush the wood fibers if you don't spread out the pressure from the metal foot.

This is a screw-type clamp. These work really well too, but you need to protect the sides of the cabinet face frames from wood crush. Yes, you can screw them so tight you can crush the wood! CLICK THE IMAGE NOW TO BUY THIS SET OF FOUR. You may need more than four!

IMPORTANT TIP: Don't think that a simple squeeze clamp is going to work. Most of these clamps don't have enough squeeze power and leverage to do the job. The screw clamp or a ratchet clamp with a cam is the only way to go. I'm finding it increasingly difficult to find the cam-type ratchet clamps.

Shim Base Cabinets

It’s imperative you have the cabinets shimmed to the proper height before you start the connection process. The cabinet face frames need to be perfectly aligned and touching with no gaps before you apply clamping pressure. Expecting the clamps to make up for an out-of-level floor or a wavy wall is asking too much.

Two Or More

I use two clamps to squeeze the cabinet frames together. I then drill the screw pilot holes. I put a minimum of two screws in each one about 1.5 inches from the top and bottom of the face frame opening. Cabinets 24 inches or taller always get three screws connecting the face frames.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local finish carpenters who install cabinets.

The Screws

I've had great success using 2.5-inch drywall screws to hold the cabinet face frames together. The bugle-shaped head of the drywall screw works perfectly with the countersink bit you read about in a moment. This provides lots of contact area for the head of the screw which is important.

This is a fine thread drywall screw. They work great. Be sure you drill a pilot hole that's 1/32 of an inch smaller than the diameter of this screw. CLICK THE IMAGE NOW TO ORDER THESE PERFECT SCREWS.

Countersink

Once the pilot holes are drilled, I create the countersink cavity for the screw head. Using my drill/driver or an impact driver I then install the screws. CLICK HERE to see the great impact driver I use to install cabinets.

After all that, I remove the clamps. If you do everything right, the cabinets are locked into position and the seam between the two cabinets should look superb.

Here's a marvelous set of countersink bits. You match the diameter of the bit to the head of the screw. CLICK THE IMAGE NOW TO ORDER THESE.

Wall Cabinets First

I’ve found it’s far easier installing wall cabinets first. You don’t have to reach over the base cabinets risking damage to them. Interestingly enough you’ll have other carpenters or builders tell you just the opposite. They prefer to put in the base cabinets first.

Hold Back

When I install wall cabinets that need to be screwed together, I don’t drive the screws holding them to the wall completely in. I want the cabinets to have a small amount of play in them so I can pull them together with the squeeze clamps.

Couple Cabinets

If you have plenty of muscle power or a few helpers you can also do what I’ve done for years. Screw the wall cabinets together on the ground - as many as you can safely lift - and then install the solid mass of cabinetry as one unit. This same trick can be done with base cabinets.

Screws Into Studs

You’ll have to have lots of help to do this and it really pays to do the math ahead of time as to drilling the holes in the back of the cabinets so the screws go into the center of wall studs or pre-installed solid blocking that’s hidden behind the drywall or plaster.

Be sure to use screws long enough to penetrate at least 1 and 1/2 inches into the wall studs. The weight of the cabinet and the items in the cabinets can be hundreds of pounds. Special screws like the ones just below are made for hanging wall cabinets.

These are the screws you use to mount the cabinets to the wall. Do NOT use these to screw cabinets together. CLICK THE IMAGE NOW TO ORDER THESE GREAT SCREWS.

Remove Doors

I also recommend removing cabinet doors, especially wall cabinets, when you’re trying to connect them. It’s mandatory if you need to screw together cabinets where the hinges connect to the face frames. The cabinet doors need to be out of the way for the squeeze clamps to grasp the cabinet face frames.

Removing the cabinet doors minimizes the chance of damage to them as you work. In the case of wall cabinets, it also decreases the weight of them as you lift them into place.

Practice Countersink

If you’ve never used a countersink bit to create the cavity for the screws, I beg you to practice. You want to discover the correct depth of the countersink hole so the screw head is flush with the inside edge of the face frame. It’s a precision task. If you drill to deep, the diameter of the countersink hole will be too large. Drill too shallow and the screw head will be proud of the cabinet frame.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local finish carpenters who install cabinets.

Column 1024

Treated Wood Foundation Problems

Posted on February 8, 2017 by Tim Carter

Lookie lookie, Can you see the extensive termite damage on the right side of the post? Imagine my reaction when I pulled this treated lumber post out of the ground. I was told it wouldn't rot and that termites couldn't eat it. How would you like to have your foundation built out of this wood???? You'd have to be NUTS to take that chance. ©2017 Tim Carter

Treated Wood Foundation TIPS

Treated wood rots
Concrete can last hundreds of years
QC at lumber treatment plant suspect
My treated lumber rotted
CLICK HERE to Get Tim's FREE & FUNNY Newsletter!

DEAR TIM: Several years ago, there was a movement toward the use of wood foundations due to the rising cost of labor and concrete. I toured a couple of newly constructed homes in the Toledo, Ohio area at the time that had used this technique.

My question is "How have these structures fared over time?" Are they still considered sound and what has become of the idea of wood frame foundations?

Are there any contractors using this method actively today? At the time I thought it a good idea, but being the skeptic I am I thought it was better left to someone else to prove the concept.

I've built several homes over the years (for my own use) and have given thought to another project. Your thoughts and insight are always appreciated as I am an avid reader of your column in the Toledo Blade. Roger Puppos, Toledo, OH

DEAR ROGER: I absolutely remember that movement promoting wood over masonry for foundations. The thought back then that rushed through my head was the fable about the Three Little Pigs. As many of us know, the big bad wolf ate two of the three little pigs - the ones that used straw and wood to build their homes. The pig that used masonry was not harmed by the wolf.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local foundation contractors.

Castle Clues

Have you ever seen photos of ancient castles in Europe? Often the walls are still standing, but the roof is long gone.

The roofs were made from wood. The walls were made from stone. They didn't have treated lumber a thousand years ago, but believe me the timbers they used to construct those castle roofs were the densest and most rot-resistant lumber available at the time. Water always wins with lumber if there's oxygen around.

Cast, or poured, concrete is artificial rock or stone. You can order it with more Portland cement and make it incredibly strong so it lasts hundreds of years if that's the legacy you want to create.

Wood Is Strong

My problem with the wood foundations was never one concerning engineering. I was convinced a properly constructed wood foundation could easily act as a retaining wall against all soil pressures that were trying to push it over. Wood shoring has been used for years to protect workmen who install piping in deep trenches and those who work in mines.

I have no doubt that the treated wood manufacturers still promote wood as a viable material for foundations. I also believe there are builders who still use wood for foundation work.

Insects & Rot

My real concern was long-term degradation caused by water and insects. The thought that kept playing in my head like an endless loop of video tape was an image of a workman at a plant that makes treated lumber. There were two episodes in this short documentary.

Human Error

The first one was of the workman coming to work with a very bad head cold or the flu. In this episode, he starts to blend the chemicals that are used to preserve the wood, but because of his lack of concentration he makes a serious mistake and that batch of lumber does not receive enough chemical treatment.

Hoping

The wood certified for wood foundations is supposed to contain a higher amount of the preservatives. That's a given. But how do you know if it does?

Do you want to hope your treated lumber foundation has enough preservatives? Hope is the emotion of last resort. You hope for things you can't control.

You can control your foundation. You can make your foundation wall last as long, or longer, than castle walls.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local foundation contractors.

Anger Issues

Episode two is a little different but the result is the same. The workman who mixes the chemicals goes and asks his boss for a raise. The plant manager tells the worker that he is not deserving of a pay increase. The disgruntled worker goes back to the work station and decides to take his anger out on the next load of pressure treated lumber.

Quality Control?

I don't doubt for a moment that plants that make pressure treated lumber have quality control measures in place and follow them making sure mistakes don't happen. That's just good business. But mistakes do happen and I have proof.

How many food recalls or other product recalls can you remember in the past year or two?

How did those mistakes happen? Who was in charge of the quality control that day at the factory?

Impossible Test

The questions you have to ask yourself, since you can't easily test the lumber at your job site, might be:

Is the treatment in this lumber the correct mixture and will it LAST?
Was the lumber mislabeled?
Was the correct amount of preservative used and was the pressure high enough in the vessel?

Tim's Failure

In the early 1990's when CCA treated lumber was still being produced, I built a large play structure for my daughter. The main supports were 4x4 posts that I placed directly into the ground and backfilled with the soil.

These posts were approved for direct ground burial. The treated lumber came with a lifetime warranty against rot or decay.

Fifteen years later, I took the play structure apart so I could build a large Queen Anne Victorian garden shed for my wife. To my amazement, two of the six 4x4 posts had significant termite damage to that portion that was buried in the ground.

To say the least, I felt vindicated about my suspicion that treated lumber was not to be trusted 100 percent of the time.

Great Wonders Of The World

When it comes to building for a lifetime, I have a tendency to lean on my college degree in geology. Look at the great temples, tombs and castles that are still standing in the world today. One thing they all have in common is they all are made from rock.

The Great Pyramids are still standing after thousands of years as are temples in Central and South America. Europe has castles that are hundreds of years old that are still in excellent condition. Remember, concrete is nothing more than artificial rock.

Build your foundation from concrete and sleep well at night.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local foundation contractors.

This column was mentioned in the May 12, 2015 AsktheBuilder Newsletter.

Column EM0013

Can I Cut My Roof Trusses?

Posted on February 8, 2017 by Tim Carter

Attic trusses are complex structural elements of a building. They’re designed by registered engineers in almost all situations and you should never cut any part of a truss without consulting an engineer first. © Copyright 2017 Tim Carter

Can I Cut My Roof Trusses TIPS

Trusses can be cut
A structural engineer will create a plan
WATCH the truss videos below
Call a structural engineer to prevent roof collapse
CLICK HERE to Get Tim's FREE & FUNNY Newsletter!

DEAR TIM: My family is growing and I need to move my home office. I looked up into the attic over my garage that’s built with standard roof trusses. There’s plenty of room to create a room.

How do I cut and modify the trusses to create an open space like the attic in the old house I grew up in? It doesn’t seem to be that hard to do.

I need to get started soon as the new baby will be here before you know it. Kevin B., Silver Spring, MD

DEAR KEVIN: If you want to live to see that new addition to the family, make sure your reciprocating saw stays in its case for now. The good news is you can convert that space above your garage into a room, but you’re going to go about it with some help from a registered structural engineer.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local structural engineers who can help you cut your trusses.

Trusses vs. Common Rafters

Let’s compare common roof trusses with the roof framing materials that were used in your parent’s house. While they look the same, you probably didn’t notice the subtle differences.

Most common attic trusses for homes and garages are made with 2x4’s. Your parents' roof rafters were probably made from 2x8's and could have been 2x10's or 2x12's. My own home I live in now has 2x12 rafters.

Strong Wood Species

Typically the truss designer will specify a very strong wood species like southern yellow pine or even Douglas fir. A 2x4 on it’s own can’t support lots of weight without cracking. So how do they do it when you consider how heavy shingles are and possibly 2 feet of snow on a roof?

Webbing Support

Trusses will have angled pieces of 2x4 that connect between the sloped top chord member and the horizontal bottom chord. These are referred to as webbing. Each piece of webbing where it contacts the sloped top chord acts like a support beam to the otherwise flimsy 2x4.

Triangles

You’ll notice a common truss is almost always a series of interconnected triangles that make up one giant triangle. A triangle is an incredibly strong structural shape. This is why you see this same design used in massive bridges that span hundreds of feet over rivers and canyons.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local structural engineers who can help you cut your trusses.

Wood Truss Videos

Watch these two videos and pay attention to the angled webbing pieces that extend from the bottom chord up to the top chord. These are VITAL to a truss's overall strength.

Common Roof Framing

Let’s look at the attic in your parent’s house. Typically you’ll have a long common rafter that extends from the roof peak down to one of the exterior walls. This rough lumber is not a 2x4. At the very least it’s a 2x6, and it’s probably a 2x8 or 2x10.

The attic floor you walked on as a kid was no doubt made with similar larger dimensional lumber. These pieces of lumber, when spiked together with long nails, also created a giant triangle.

Collapse Hazard

The horizontal bottom chord of the truss, as well as the attic floor lumber at your parent’s home, hold the sloped top chords and common rafter is position so the roof doesn’t kick out and collapse.

Possible Engineering Solution

A structural engineer who knows all about roof truss design may be able to come up with a design that allows you to modify all the small angled pieces of 2x4 that connect between the top and bottom chords.

I guarantee you he’ll come up with a design that requires you to install a much larger bottom chord. This will not be easy to do, but it’s possible.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local structural engineers who can help you cut your trusses.

Take Measurements

I suggest you take measurements of your garage as well as great photos of the exterior and photos of your existing trusses. You’ll need the width of the garage and the height of the trusses measured from the tip of the peak down to the bottom of the bottom chord.

Truss Plant Visit

Take all of this information to your local truss fabrication plant. You can locate these via a trip to your local old-fashioned lumber yard. The lumber yards order the trusses they sell from these local plants. Call and make an appointment to meet with the plant engineer. Most will accommodate you as they don’t want to read about you in the newspaper.

Quick Consult

The engineer can look at your photos and measurements and tell you within minutes if there’s a chance at modifying your existing trusses. If you get good news, ask how much it would cost for him to complete a design drawing that you can follow.

Be sure to ask for the step-by-step directions on how to provide temporary support to a truss as you start to modify it. You just can’t start to cut and hope all works out!

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local structural engineers who can help you cut your trusses.

Attic Trusses

To get a quick idea of what you’re trying to do, you can get a drawing of the truss that should have been installed above your garage when it was built. Attic trusses don’t cost that much more than a common truss and it’s a shame more builders don’t use them all the time.

Your local lumber yard often can produce this drawing while you wait using computer software. You’ll see what the engineer may come up with before you even meet with him.

My Man Cave

I have attic trusses that span my garage giving me a room that’s 12 feet wide and has a ceiling height of 8 feet. Part of the walls of the room are sloped, but that’s okay. My cozy man cave is inside the room created within the attic trusses. It's a great room.

I’ve also used attic trusses on jobs where a standard rectangular room was created that had straight walls floor to ceiling. Good luck, take your time and be safe!

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local structural engineers who can help you cut your trusses.

Column 1042

How to Wallpaper on Drywall

Posted on February 8, 2017 by Tim Carter

How to Wallpaper on Drywall

How to Wallpaper on Drywall TIPS

Apply special primer / sealer
Creates extra working time while hanging
WATCH wallpapering videos below
Use special sealer to repair damaged drywall
CLICK HERE to Get Tim's FREE & FUNNY Newsletter!

DEAR TIM: I was thinking of wallpapering several rooms in my house and installing a few borders in others. But after talking with some friends who have removed wallpaper from their houses, I think I might not do it.

As they removed the paper, they ruined their walls. The paper facing on the drywall was ripped off! Is there a way to prevent this? What can my friends do to restore their drywall? Darcey R., Brookville, IN

DEAR DARCEY: Ouch! I absolutely know how frustrated your friends must be. Tell them not to panic as there is an easy repair method that will restore the walls to like new condition.

Drywall Damage Preventable

The sad thing is that all of the damage to the drywall face paper could have been prevented. Whoever installed the paper skipped a vital step. They failed to size the walls before they hung the paper.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local wallpaper hangers who use the special sealers. Ask them!

Sizing = Ancient Process

Sizing walls is a mystical process that generates lots of puzzled looks from clerks at paint stores as well as homeowners who wonder what it is. I can remember clearly the first time I heard the term.

I thought it meant you had to carefully measure the walls before you hung paper so that you purchased a sufficient amount of wallpaper. The truth of the matter is that sizing is a process that allows wallpaper to be installed with ease and at the same time allows it to be removed at some future time with little or no effect on the wall substrate.

Primer / Sealer = New Method

The word sizing tends to be used by older professional wallpaper hangers. New paper hangers just entering the field talk about priming and sealing walls instead of sizing them.

Many years ago paper hangers applied diluted wheat-paste adhesives on plaster walls to size them before they hung paper. This adhesive soaked into the fresh plaster and acted as a crude sealer. Modern technology has produced some amazing products that work much better than applying a thin wheat-paste to a wall.

Just A Few Tools

Let's get started with the tools. Fortunately, you don't need many tools to wallpaper.

Here's a list that will get you going on this job:

retractable razor knife with snap-off blades
4.5 or 6-inch drywall taping knife
smoothing brush or plastic smoother
4-foot level
grout sponge
measuring tape
paint roller & pan
paint brush

Click the Image Below to get all, or some, of the tools now:

CLICK HERE to get all the tools I recommend in one place. It's easy and fast.

Plaster Wall Suction

Without the diluted adhesive coating the adhesive on the back of the paper sucked into the bare plaster too quickly. This made it difficult to adjust and smooth the paper. In some instances the wallpaper adhesive soaked so deeply into the plaster little glue remained behind to hold the paper to the wall.

Wallpaper Videos

Watch these wallpaper videos to get an idea of what you're up against. It's not that hard, but I'd start on a small room first to get your skills honed.

New Adhesives

Modern wallpaper adhesives are very different than the old wheat-paste glues. Some are so strong that they can actually penetrate through many porous wall paints and actually grab onto the wall surface beneath the paint.

This is where many rookie paper hangers and homeowners get into trouble. They look at a painted wall and think that the wall has been primed and sealed. Indeed the wall may have a paint primer on it but this is not the right type of primer.

The new sealers create a barrier the glue can't get through. You absolutely need this if you're applying wallpaper over drywall.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local wallpaper hangers who use the special sealers. Ask them!

High-Tech Sealers

To prevent the high-strength paper adhesives from bonding to the drywall paper you must apply specialized primer/sealers made for wallpaper. These water-based low-odor products form a tough barrier that paper adhesives can not penetrate. CLICK HERE to buy some of this special primer / sealer now.

This is the new high-tech wallpaper primer / sealer. It's an amazing product. I've used it and like it very much. You can tint it. CLICK THE IMAGE NOW TO BUY SOME.

The primer/sealers are perfect for painted drywall, bare drywall, paneling, and even existing walls that already have wallpaper on them. The products look just like paint and apply the same way.

Tint The Sealer

What's more, some brands are tintable. You can colorize the primer to match the background color of the wallpaper. This feature comes in very handy if a paper seam spreads apart in the future.

Extend Hang Time

The new primer/sealers also help you when you hang paper. They help to slow the drying time of the adhesives so that you have plenty of time to adjust and trim the paper as you work each sheet.

This characteristic is very important if you're double cutting paper as you install inlaid borders within a paper pattern. Not all wallpaper sealer/primers are created equal. If you want the best performance you will have to pay slightly more per gallon for it.

Seal Damaged Drywall

The damaged drywall at your friend's house can be salvaged with a similar product. Advise your friends to purchase a similar water-based sealer formulated specifically to seal unpainted or damaged drywall surface. CLICK HERE to buy this special primer.

This is the fantastic clear drywall primer made to stabilize drywall that's lost it's top layer of paper. This is easy to apply and dries fast. CLICK THE IMAGE NOW TO BUY IT.

Before they apply this special sealer they need to sand off any loose or ragged paper edges. The special sealer is blue when wet but dries clear. Your friends will appreciate this once they begin to apply the necessary skim coating that will transform the ugly mess into smooth walls once again.

Blisters & Bubbles

If you don't seal the damaged drywall, the water from the joint compound used to skim coat the walls creates horrible blisters and bubbles. If you think your friends are upset now, just wait till you see their faces when the walls resemble a life sized mural of blister packing material!

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local wallpaper hangers who use the special sealers. Ask them!

Column 377

Roof Ventilation with Turbine Vents

Posted on February 8, 2017 by Tim Carter

Roof Ventilation with Turbine Vent | This turbine vent spins with just the slightest breeze. It is but one tool to use when you want superior attic ventilation. The top part of this vent was made from durable plastic. The vent was manufactured in Australia. It was on my Queen Anne Victorian garden shed in Cincinnati. PHOTO CREDIT: Tim Carter

Roof Ventilation With Turbine Vent TIPS

Ridge vents are inferior
Hot air rises but doesn't go down
WATCH install videos below
Turbine vents suck lots of air from attics
CLICK HERE to Get Tim's FREE & FUNNY Newsletter!

Is Roof Ventilation Important?

Yes, roof ventilation is very important. The more you can get the better.

The roof-ventilation rage over the past fifteen years has been continuous ridge and soffit ventilation. These systems are nearly invisible and they create a system through which air enters your attic space and then gently floats through the attic space.

But I've discovered over the years there's a much better product to use to ventilate an attic.

Do Ridge Vents Work All the Time?

Ridge vents do not work all the time. In hot weather with no wind, no air floats out of your attic space.

The companies that make the ridge ventilation products claim that no matter what the time of year, the air exits the attic space through small gaps at the peak of the roof. I've tested this claim, or hypothesis, and it doesn't work in the summertime.

IMPORTANT TIP: I'll explain more in a moment, but realize that hot air rises, it doesn't go down.

At the peak of your roof there's a gap in the wood sheathing.

This gap is covered with any number of different products that allow air to pass, but prohibit rain, snow and insects from entering your attic area. You can't see these vents as they are almost always covered by the roofing shingles at the peak.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local roofers who can install turbine vents in an hour or less.

Ridge Vent Gap Video

Watch the video just below to see this gap. You'll see it about 1:40 into the video. If you want to advance to that point, just do so. Realize this gap you see is where the air comes out of the underside of the roof.

What is the Physics of Hot Air?

The mechanics of the air movement are quite simple. During warm weather, the air inside your attic heats up. Since warm air rises, it tends to float out of the highest ventilation spaces. As air leaves your attic, more air has to replace it.

The conventional wisdom is to put in soffit vents down at the bottom of the roof so the replacement air can enter here and flow up under all the roof sheathing. This convection movement naturally draws in cooler outside air to replace the air that just exited.

Does Wind Suck Air From Attics?

Yes, wind does suck air from attics. It's called the venturi effect.

Wind that blows across the roof anytime of year also acts to vacuum air from the attic space. The wind blowing across a roof can create a partial vacuum on the leeward side of a roof. When the wind blows and at the right angle a significant amount of air can be pulled through the attic space by the vacuum created as wind blows across the peak of the roof covered with a ridge vent.

Can You Test Ridge Vents With Incense?

I loved taking physics in high school and college. There I discovered that hot air rises and cold air falls down.

For a ridge vent to work, the hot air has to rise up to the peak under the shingles, then it needs to go down several inches in altitude to get out of the ridge vent.

That seemed impossible to me. I decided to test it.

I went up into my attic on a blistering hot day around 1 pm. The sun had been beating on my roof for hours and it was probably 145 F up there.

I made sure there was no wind outdoors. It was a calm humid Cincinnati summer day.

I lit a stick of incense and held the stick about 10 inches down from the underside of my continuous ridge vent.

Smoke from the incense floated lazily up but it was NOT drawn out of the ridge vent. It just sat up near the peak of the roof.

Are Turbine Vents The Best Ventilation?

In my opinion, turbine vents are the best ventilation. They work with just the slightest breeze.

Turbine vents can vacuum vast quantities of air from an attic space on a windy day. It's the common turbine vent. Some people call them whirlybirds or whirlybirds.

These balance ventilators have a dome that spins on high-quality ball bearings. Just hot air rising out of one will make it spin.

If the wind is blowing and catches the fins, then the turbines act like giant vacuum pumps sucking hundreds of cubic feet of hot air out of an attic per minute.

The faster the wind speed, the faster the turbine rotates.

This is a standard turbine vent. They come in different colors. Some have external braces. This one you see is Made in the USA. CLICK THE IMAGE TO ORDER ONE OF THESE GREAT TURBINE VENTS.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local roofers who can install turbine vents in an hour or less.

Turbine Vents are Time Tested

Turbine vents have been used for many years in both residential, commercial, agricultural and industrial buildings. The vents are very affordable, easy to install, and they pump vast amounts of air from attic spaces.

CLICK HERE to see an assortment of turbine vents that I've used on my jobs. Made in the USA!

A Small Turbine = Lots Of Air

A small 12-inch diameter turbine vent with a constant wind speed of 5 miles per hour (mph) can remove 347 cubic feet of air per minute (cfm) from the attic space.

A single 14-inch diameter turbine vent that is subjected to 15 mph winds can expel up to 1,342 cfm of air! If the winds are still, the vents still allow air to drift up and out of the attic space, although not nearly as much.

How Much Attic Air Change is Required?

Those amounts of air might not mean much to you at first blush. But consider a moderately sized home whose attic space is 36 feet deep, 50 feet long and 10 feet high at the peak. This attic space contains 18,000 cubic feet of air.

A single 12 inch diameter turbine vent could provide a complete change of air in the attic space every 52 minutes if the outside breeze was just 5 mph.

The 14 inch diameter unit could provide a complete air change in the attic every 14 minutes at 15 mph. Imagine what happens if you install two or three of these simplistic turbine vents on the back side of your roof out of view!

Can You Achieve a Leak-Proof Installation with Turbine Vents?

It's easy to install a turbine vent and have no roof leaks.

The roofer your builder hires can install a turbine vent in less than 15 minutes. The average cost of a high quality turbine vent is just $50. The best ones provide years of maintenance-free service since they have permanently sealed ball bearings.

Roof Flashing Video

Watch this video of me installing a bathroom vent fan hood. It's the EXACT SAME process for a roof turbine vent. Nothing about the install is different.

If your roof is not too steep and you have asphalt shingles, this is a DIY project. Once again, watch this video and imagine I'm installing a turbine vent. The base flashing of the turbine vent is IDENTICAL to the bath fan flashing you'll see.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local roofers who can install turbine vents in an hour or less.

No Leaks

Many people look at the vents and think they will leak during a rainstorm. The wind that almost always accompanies a rain shower or storm actually causes the turbine to spin and blow rain drops away from the vent. The same is true for snow.

If you want the strongest turbine vent, be sure to buy one that has external braces. These are simple metal braces that extend out beyond the spinning turbine. These visible braces do a fantastic job of stabilizing the turbine when the winds are really blowing.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local roofers who can install turbine vents in an hour or less.

Column NH039

February 8, 2017 AsktheBuilder Newsletter

Posted on February 8, 2017 by Tim Carter

This is going to be VERY FAST since I reached out yesterday.

You may have missed the exciting news about True Value Hardware.

CLICK HERE to see what I had to share.

Look over what I sent yesterday and consider doing both of us a huge favor.

Would you consider forwarding / sharing my email I sent you about the paint videos to all of your friends and relatives? Let them know about the great paint and the rebate offers.

Send them this link:

http://go.askthebuilder.com/TwoGreatPaints

Let's try to get this to go viral. Spread the news on social media if you use that.

Here's a url you can use on all your social media channels:

http://go.askthebuilder.com/TwoGreatPaints

Woodprix SPAMMERS

I wanted to warn you about a suspicious website that sells plans.

It's called woodprix.com.

I've been having a HORRIBLE time deleting their SPAM comments from many of my videos.

They open up countless false, or empty, accounts on YouTube so they can comment on videos.

It's like playing Whack-a-Mole. Each time I block the account from commenting a new name pops up.

I can tell you based on this activity I'd NEVER BUY ANYTHING from this website.