Deck railing posts are the foundation of a deck railing system. They must be strong.
It's easy to connect deck railing posts to the floor joists of the deck.
No Lag Bolts!
Don't lag bolt a deck railing post to the outer band board that's nailed to the ends of the floor joists. The nails that pass through the band board into the ends of the floor joists have minimal holding power.
The reason why nails driven into the end of a stud or joist don't hold well is because the nail is parallel to the micro grow tubes that make up the tree. If you could look at the end of a deck joist with a high-powered microscope it would resemble what the end of a bundle of unwrapped drinking straws would look like.
Here's the connector I used on my own deck posts. You need two per deck railing post. WATCH the VIDEO above to see how it goes in. CLICK THE IMAGE HERE NOW TO BUY THESE CONNECTORS.
"I think it's reasonable for a person to wonder how in the world the sink will stay permanently attached to the countertop with this kind of weight regularly trying to pull the sink down into the base cabinet."
DEAR TIM: Are undermount kitchen sinks a good idea? I have never had one, and am worried about leakage where the undermount sink contacts the underside of the countertop.
I want a granite undermount kitchen sink, but am worried the sink will pull away from the granite countertop. This would be a nightmare, especially if the sink was filled with water.
What undermount sink installation tips can you share that will allow me to buy one with complete confidence? Christy F., Flemington, NJ
DEAR CHRISTY: The first thing I can tell you is an undermount kitchen sink will give you a lifetime of leak-free performance if it is installed correctly. I have several undermount sinks in my own home, and they simply do not leak where the sink touches up against my granite countertops.
It's important to note I felt the same way you did about undermount kitchen sinks. It was the plumber in me that made me a Doubting Thomas. After all, a standard double-bowl sink that has a disposer on one side and is completely filled with water weighs well over 100 pounds.
I think it's reasonable for a person to wonder how in the world the sink will stay permanently attached to the countertop with this kind of weight regularly trying to pull the sink down into the base cabinet.
High-strength epoxies, anchors and clips, and silicone caulk are used to attach the sink to the underside of the stone tops.
The undermount sinks are held in place with metal anchors that are glued to the underside of the stone with a two-part epoxy that cures rapidly and has incredible tensile strength once cured.
Furthermore, a bead of silicone caulk helps bond the sink to the stone to prevent water leaks between the sink and the underside of the countertop.
What is a Great Epoxy to Use?
PC-7 is a great epoxy that will not sag or drip when installing the anchors to the underside of a stone countertop. Remember, blow out all the dust from the holes before applying the epoxy.
I've used epoxies made by this company for both inside and outside projects. PC Products makes a superb epoxy right here in the USA! CLICK THE IMAGE TO ORDER SOME NOW.
Does the Stone Need to be Dust-Free?
Another key point is to make sure the underside of the stone countertop is dust-free. Dust will cause the epoxy bond to fail.
Any installer worth his salt will take a brush to remove stone dust from underneath the countertop. Dust in this location is a strong possibility because of the cut made to create the hole for your sink.
How is the Sink Cutout Created?
It must be remembered the granite countertop fabricator had to cut a special-shaped hole in the stone top to create the hole for your undermount sink. The undermount sinks come with a cutout template that's traced onto the stone.
Once the cut is made, the fabricator has to polish the rough stone edge.
What Generates the Thick Dust Under the Top?
Cutting out the hole for the sink and polishing the edge generates thick dust under the top.
The water that is used during the polishing process gets very small pieces of stone in it, and this slurry can roll to the underside of the countertop. Once the water component of the slurry evaporates, the stone grit or dust is left behind.
There's no real standard as to how much overhang the stone should be beyond the actual sidewalls of the sink. I always tried to have no less than 1/8 inch for an overhang and certainly no more than 1/4 inch.
No, caulk is not to be used as the adhesive to hold the sink to the stone. Caulk is just used to create a waterproof seal between the sink and the stone top.
Most undermount sinks come with very clear written installation instructions. Every set of instruction I have seen calls for a bead of clear silicone caulk to be placed around the flat lip of the undermount sink. This continuous bead of caulk acts as the waterproof seal between the sink and the countertop once the undermount sink is pressed permanently against the stone countertop.
Every month or so I get an email from a homeowner who's undermount sink has crashed down into their cabinet. Each autopsy report shows the idiot installer cut corners and just used caulk to hold the sink. They never bothered to use anchors and epoxy.
How Long Does it Take To Install the Sink?
Most professional installers can install an undermount kitchen sink in 30 minutes or less. The tools required are a 2x4 longer than the sink cutout is wide, one or two bar clamps, the special two-part epoxy and the caulk and caulk gun.
Once the installer knows the underside of the stone top is dust-free, he applies the silicone caulk to the sink lip. The sink is then pushed up against the underside of the stone top and centered under the polished cutout.
The 2x4 is then placed on top of the countertop spanning across the sink. One end of the bar clamp goes through the large drain hole in the sink and the other end goes on top of the 2x4. A double-bowled sink needs two clamps, one for each drain hole.
The clamps are partially tightened and the reveal of the sink is checked to make sure it is even around the entire cutout of the granite. The clamps are then fully tightened.
It's now time to mix the two-part epoxy and apply it to the small bolt posts that are glued next to the lip of the undermount sink. The installers are on their backs in the sink base looking up when they do this.
What are Different Undermount Kitchen Sink Anchors?
There are several types of anchors that can be used to mount an undermount sink. One type you have to drill holes for.
Another anchor has a wide round base at the bottom of the threaded stud. This base has holes in it that allow the epoxy to ooze through. These are very good if you make sure the underside of the stone / granite is dust-free. Here's a good example of this anchor. CLICK HERE to see all the different types of anchors.
This is a common undermount sink anchor and clip. You can see the round base of the threaded stud. Use this type with the PC Products epoxy above. CLICK THE IMAGE TO SEE MANY ANCHORS.
The epoxy sets rapidly, usually in ten minutes or so. After this wait period, the rest of the hardware that clamps the sink to the bolt posts is installed. It is good to wait at least one day before the plumber arrives to connect any drain piping or a heavy disposer to the undermount sink.
Before the drain piping is attached to the sink, it is wise to tighten the nuts that hold the clamps in place. Do not over tighten. Simply make sure they are snug. The adhesive properties of the silicone caulk in conjunction with the epoxy hold the sink permanently in place.
How Long Should the Epoxy Cure?
The epoxy should cure at least 24 hours before you apply tension forces to it.
The biggest mistake you or an installer can make is trying to rush the job. All too often an aggressive plumber, remodeler or homeowner will try to finish the entire job the same day.
They will wait six or seven hours thinking the epoxy is plenty hard, only to discover that the weight of a heavy disposer pulls the sink away from the countertop.
There's another way to support an undermount sink and it doesn't involve using epoxy. The undermount sink is supported by a wire harness that's snugged up against the bottom of the sink using an ingenious drawbar.
Here are all the parts for the Hercules Universal Sink Harness Kit. You just need a simple screwdriver and a wrench to install it. EASY! CLICK THE IMAGE TO ORDER ONE NOW.
DEAR TIM:Lately I’ve seen roofers install a strange product that looks like traditional felt paper, but it’s not. It has a peel-away backing paper, and this material sticks to the wood sheathing.
What is it? Why would you use this on a roof? Is it something that can be added to an existing roof in case I’m adding another layer of shingles? Connie G. Columbus, OH
DEAR CONNIE: Without being there, I’m willing to wager that you saw ice and water shield being installed. It’s an amazing roofing product that was introduced in the 1980’s and has quickly become the gold standard for creating leak-free roofs in all climates.
Ice and water shield is different from felt paper because it's a rubberized membrane that sticks to itself and the wood roof sheathing. It creates a waterproof barrier to standing water if installed correctly.
Felt paper does not stick to anything.
Roofing ice and water shield may look like traditional felt paper, but it’s vastly different in performance. Ice and water shield is a far superior product compared to basic roofing felt paper.
What Does Felt Paper Do?
Traditional felt paper does a decent job at stopping most leaks where water gets under shingles, tiles, metal or slate. It does this by using gravity.
Gravity allows the water to flow over the tar paper down to the edge of the roof. As long as the water doesn't travel horizontally or along the shaft of a roofing nail, the water will not come in contact with the wood beneath the actual roofing material.
How is Felt Paper Installed?
Felt paper is installed so each higher row overlaps the row below. In a perfect world water can't get to the wood roof sheathing.
How Does Felt Paper Allow Leaks?
The overlapping seams of the felt paper can't protect against water that flows BACKWARDS up the roof.
But felt paper has problems where it overlaps the sheet below and where the nails penetrate the felt. If water backs up under the roof as happens with ice damming, water can flow up and under the lap joints of felt paper.
Are the Nail Holes in Felt Sealed?
No. The nail holes through felt paper are not sealed.
Where the nails used to attach the roofing materials penetrate felt paper, the actual hole created by the nail is not sealed where it passes through the felt paper.
Water can get under the head of the nail and seep down the shaft of the nail where it passes through the felt paper. When this happens, you get leaks into your home.
Ice and water shield contains asphalt cement, a special stretchable membrane, and a fancy co-polymer called styrene butadene styrene (SBS).
The SBS component makes the product very sticky.
The ice and water shield roofing material is made with a rubberized asphalt mixture that solves these problems. Because the product has a very sticky backing, it not only adheres well to the wood roofing sheathing, but it also sticks well to the layer below when you overlap the pieces.
Does the Air Temperature Cause Problems During Installation?
Yes, the air temperature, as well as direct sunlight, causes problems when installing ice and water shield.
When the air temperature is above 60 F and the sun is shining on the ice and water shield product, it's extremely sticky. It acts just like contact cement and whatever the sticky side touches, it will not pull off.
You'll have an impossible time pulling it off of anything it touches.
Do Nails Seal with Ice and Water Shield?
Yes, the nail holes through certain brands of ice and water shield do seal. Be sure you get that guarantee in writing before you purchase a product.
When nails penetrate the ice and water shield on the roof, the rubberized nature of the material creates a gasket effect on the shaft of the nail. Leaks simply don’t happen. But not all ice and water shield products offer this!!
I covered the ENTIRE roof of my New Hampshire house with Grace Ice and Water Shield. I never have to worry about a roof leak - EVER. CLICK THIS IMAGE NOW TO ORDER SOME AND HAVE IT DELIVERED TO YOUR HOME.
Do Other Roofing Products Go Over the Ice and Water Shield?
Ice and water shield products are hidden by the finished roofing materials. Not only does ice and water shield installation stop leaks caused by ice dams, but it also stops leaks created by fierce wind-driven rain.
Does Ice and Water Shield Protect Against Hurricanes?
Yes, ice and water shield will protect your home from leaks caused by hurricanes.
If you live in an area that’s frequented by hurricanes or severe thunderstorms that can drive rain sideways, then you need this material. These storms can easily push water under many finished roofing materials.
You can cover the entire roof with the ice and water shield, but in many instances, it’s applied where leaks frequently happen. The problem is a leak can occur just about anyplace on a roof for any number of reasons.
How Far Up a Roof Should it Be Installed to Prevent Ice Dam Leaks?
To prevent leaks from ice dams, you may want the product to extend up from the edge of the roof at least 3 feet, but 6 feet is better. I put it over my entire roof because ice dams can form far up a roof.
If the roof has a low slope, you absolutely want to extend the barrier product up the roof quite a distance. I would also apply it in any valleys you may have where two roof planes intersect.
Do You Use It Around Skylights & Flashings?
Ice and water shield is perfect to use around skylights, chimneys, plumbing vents, ventilation caps, or anything that penetrates up through a roof. The roofer laps the material up onto the object and cuts it at corners or curves in a special way to create a leak-proof barrier. Traditional roof flashings then cover this sub-flashing made from the shield product.
Can I Apply It Over Existing Shingles?
No, you can’t apply it on top of the old shingles. You must apply this product as indicated by the manufacturer. Typically you’ll discover that you must apply the material directly to the wood roof sheathing that’s under the shingles and any old felt paper.
Is it Hard to Work With in Hot Weather?
Working with ice and water shield can be challenging, especially in warm or hot weather. In these conditions, the back of the material is very sticky. If you start to unroll it and you’re not aligned correctly, you can install it crooked. If you try to straighten it out, you’ll almost always get a wrinkle.
Be prepared for a slight learning curve when using the material for the first time. If you’re not astute at how it should be installed, by all means read all the tips from the manufacturer and watch any videos they may have about how to best handle the material.
If you’re working on a steep roof, you need to be very careful. Wear all required fall-protection equipment and watch out when stepping on the material if it’s damp, frosty or cold. It can be very slippery. Falling from a roof can really ruin your day. I know, as it’s happened to me on more than one occasion.
It's Friday! If you're retired, that's inconsequential.
The rest of us know what it means!
I just looked at the extended weather (WX) forecast for central New Hampshire where I live. Holy Tomato! You'd think it was early March!
If the WX stays like this, the lake by my house will not freeze solid. Here's a photo I took earlier in the week.
The red line is the boundary between open water, above the line, and ice. In the past few days, some of the ice is melted. I'd say we have about 50 percent open water at this time.
In past years, the lake would freeze over completely by about now. Freezing depends not only on temperature, but wind.
I live on Lake Winnisquam, the third largest lake in NH, and it's got a significant amount of fetch. What's more, the lake is oriented north / south which means the wind really gets the water moving.
When the water is choppy, it's not going to freeze unless the temperature really gets below zero and stays there. The forecast temperatures are daytime highs of 40+ F with brilliant sun starting in a few days. Need I say more?
New Products to Share
If you're a new subscriber, you're in for a real treat. The same goes for you if you're in the group my buddy Dick Daniels is in.
Dick Daniels is a US Navy Captain, former fighter pilot from the Vietnam War. He's been a subscriber since 1997, maybe before. I've had the good fortune to meet Dick and his wife Sue on a few occasions over the years.
What a blessing it is to have subscribers like Dick and Sue and I hope to meet you one day. Always open each newsletter because when I travel, I try to set aside time for meet ups. For example, my son and I are thinking of doing a BBQ road trip this spring in the south, and each time we go to a restaurant we're going to have a meet up.
Here's the treat. One week ago today, I embarked on a massive project. I'm revising each and every column on AsktheBuilder.com.
You have no idea how many months this is going to take, but it's really worth it.
Here's what's in in for YOU:
Fresh content
New Product links
Bullet-point list at top of column for FAST TIPS
Links to Contractors in your city/town
New large-format photos when possible
I decided a few days ago to share a link with you to each revised column so you don't miss ANYTHING.
Remember, just about all the columns now have great LINKS to products I LOVE and USE at my own home. Don't guess if about a product, always see what I use.
A list of columns revised in the past 48 hours is just below and let me tell you, a few of the columns have amazing information you should scan.
Go ahead, click ALL of the links below.
LAST CALL - Asphalt Shingle WARRANTY Survey
If you've not yet taken my Asphalt Shingle Warranty Survey, this is your LAST CHANCE to be part of my Roofing Ripoff expose' book.
You'll be able to say you were one of the people that's in one of the colorful pieces of the pie charts!!!
If you take the survey, you're going to get a 20% discount on the .pdf version of the book. My sophisticated newsletter software has the ability to track who takes the survey. That's how I'll get you the secret promo code.
Stain Solver is MADE in the USA with USA ingredients that are food-grade quality. CLICK THE IMAGE to order some NOW.
If you want the repair to last for years, you need to apply the epoxy to a clean, dry surface. I've found that Stain Solver is the best cleaner. It's non-toxic and does a great job of removing soap scum, body oils, mildew, and other grime.
If the chips are on the bottom of the tub, just fill the tub with enough water to cover the chips and sprinkle in one cup of Stain Solver per two gallons of water that are in the tub.
Allow it to soak for three hours. At the end of the three hours, scrub the tub with a stiff brush, rinse and let dry.
Cast iron fixtures are probably the easiest fixtures to care for, as they have the hardest finish of all plumbing fixtures. The porcelain glaze that is bonded to the iron achieves a hardness very near that of actual glass. We all know that glass, because of its hardness and smoothness is really quite easy to clean. Porcelain, when cleaned on a regular basis, will shine like new glass forever. However, many people simply wait too long to clean things as mentioned above.
For example, The Kohler Company publishes the following instructions for caring and cleaning of their cast iron products:
Do use only non-abrasive cleaners and a soft nylon brush to clean the slip resistant surface of tubs.
Do use cleaners with a Ph of between 3 and 8. (Ph is a measurement of how acidic or alkaline a cleaner is.) The following cleaners are recommended: Earth Rite All Purpose, Earth Rite Tub & Tile, Glass Plus, Green Windex, Pinesol Broad Spectrum, Sparkle, Top Job, and Enviro Care Neutral Disinfectant.
Do NOT use steel wool, wire brushes, metal scrapers, or abrasive sponge pads!!
Do NOT use buffing machines on the slip resistant surfaces on tubs.
Do NOT use high alkaline or strong acidic cleaners!
Do NOT use abrasive cleaners.
Repair Products
Here are a few products you can use to repair your cast-iron tub. If you go the route of the clear epoxy and paint, you'll need high-gloss paint mixed to match the color of your cast-iron tub. That's somewhat easy to do.
The trick when using the clear epoxy is to mix it up well and only put in enough so the epoxy is flush with the surrounding porcelain. The epoxy does NOT shrink as it dries. Work with great light and don't overfill the chip. Paint it the next day.
This is the clear rapid-set epoxy that I've used for years to repair many things, including cast iron. I LOVE this product. CLICK THE IMAGE ABOVE TO ORDER IT NOW.
This may be a great product if you need a one-step process. You have to find the right one that matches the color of your tub. CLICK HERE TO ORDER THIS NOW.
"You install a deck post using special metal connectors and fasteners that have a thick coating of zinc. Cheap connectors can corrode and the deck will collapse."
DEAR TIM:This is the year of the deck at my home. I’ve scheduled the time off and I’m ready to build, however, I need your help on several things.
How do I connect the deck posts to the deck? How do the posts connect to the concrete pier, or do they just rest on the concrete? Should the posts be buried in the soil?
How do you calculate where to place the concrete piers so the posts are centered on them? Can you just come over hand help me do all this? Catherine R., Uncasville, CT
DEAR CATHERINE: I’d love to help you, but you know what happens next, right? “Tim, you helped Catherine with her deck, so surely you can help me install my water heater.” I’m going to do my best to answer your questions and I urge you to visit my AsktheBuilder.com website where I have an entire category titled Deck Construction.
I’m hoping your deck is a small one and not too high off the ground. That’s a good beginner’s project, especially if the deck is just one level and a rectangle or a square. As decks become more complex, you need quite a bit of carpentry experience to ensure everything comes out as it should.
The deck building boom started in earnest in the early 1970s with the widespread availability of CCA treated lumber.
When I first got into the building business decks were just starting to explode in popularity. It makes sense as many love to be outdoors and a deck can be an excellent outdoor room if designed properly and outfitted with shade structures and sometimes screening.
One of the coolest decks I ever built was the platform for a gorgeous screened porch for an older woman. The vaulted ceiling along with the wood floor made for an ideal spot to spend all day and night.
As the deck industry exploded, one or two manufacturers responded by developing engineered metal connectors that allowed carpenters and homeowners to safely and securely connect the parts of decks so they don’t fall down.
What About Deck Collapse Issues?
Deck collapses are real, they happen annually and people get killed or severely injured when decks suddenly fall to the ground. For this reason, you MUST be sure your deck is code-compliant and you get the necessary permits from your local building department. Not all towns require building permits for decks but check to make sure.
How Do I Install a Deck Post?
Deck posts must rest on something solid. The deck post must be connected to a concrete pier if possible using metal connectors and fasteners.
How Much Do Decks Weigh?
The average deck can weigh several tons or over 4,000 pounds.
The amount of weight being transferred to two or three deck posts that are just 4x4s or even 6x6s is enormous.
The average deck is rated for 60 pounds per square foot. Let's say you have a deck that's 12 x 20 or 240 square feet. It's possible the total weight of the deck with people, furniture, etc. on it could be 14, 400 pounds.
Half of that weight could be transferred to the two 4 x 4 posts. That means each post is supporting about 3,600 pounds.
If the post were just resting on the soil, it would transfer about 293 pounds per square inch to the soil. The post could easily sink into the soft soil.
Concrete deck piers have large footprints often being 24 inches in diameter or 24 inches square. That means the load from the post resting on a pier like this would exert only 6.25 pounds per square inch on the soil. Isn't that crazy the difference?
Cold Climates and Frost Heaving Deck Posts
The soil in cold climates can and does lift up as it freezes. At my own home here in central New Hampshire, the soil can lift as much as four, or more inches!
The dashed lines represent the frost line in different parts of the USA. It can be a few inches or a few feet! Copyright 2018 Tim Carter
You don't want a deck moving up and down as it can cause all sorts of issues. You solve this by placing the bottom of a concrete deck pier BELOW the frost line for your area.
The frost depth in central New Hampshire is about 54 inches. It can be six feet, or more, in northern Minnesota! Check with your local building department for the frost depth at your home.
Should I Install a Deck Post with Galvanized Structural Deck Post Connectors?
You’re going to use approved galvanized metal connectors sized to your deck lumber to connect the vertical posts to the outer beam that supports your deck joists. The most common connector is a plate that has two tabs of metal that point up and two that point down creating the letter U.
Special corrosion-proof fasteners are used to connect this metal bracket to the post and beam. These brackets come in various sizes for the different sized posts and beams. You’ll find these connectors online, at home centers and at lumberyards that sell lumber for deck construction.
My favorite brand, and I've used it for decades, is Simpson Strong-Tie. I have many of their connectors on my own giant decks here in New Hampshire. The photo just below is a common connector you'd use to connect a wood post to a concrete pier.
This is a very common post base made by Simpson Strong-Tie. These can be used to connect a deck post to concrete or a wood deck under-carriage. The small rectangle on the right fits inside the larger metal square. You turn over the smaller square and set the post on top of it. The giant square washer connects the entire assembly to the anchor bolt in the concrete. CLICK THE IMAGE TO ORDER ONE NOW.
The deck posts connect to the concrete piers using similar metal connection post bases. There are several types of metal post bases, but they all connect to the concrete pier and to the wood post. Once again, you’ll size the metal post base to the wood post that you’re using.
Can Wind Lift Up a Deck?
It's possible for wind to lift up a deck.
You don’t want the deck posts to just rest on the concrete pier. Wind uplift, shifting soil, garden tractor accidents, etc. could cause the post to shift off the pier contributing to the deck collapsing. Connecting the post to the concrete pier anchors the deck to the earth.
Should Deck Posts Be Buried in the Ground?
In my opinion, it’s not a great idea to bury the deck posts in the soil even if they’re resting on concrete piers. I’ve seen lumber that’s treated for ground contact succumb to rot and insect infestation.
Keeping the treated lumber above grade allows it to dry rapidly thus extending its useful lifespan.
Here's a post cap connector. Simpson makes them in all different sizes to connect different posts to different width beams. CLICK THE IMAGE TO SEE ALL THE SIMPSON PRODUCTS YOU'LL NEED FOR YOUR PERGOLA.
What is the Correct Concrete Pier Spacing?
Some lumber yards have great computer software that can calculate the size of your deck beams and the number of posts you need. This will tell you what the spacing between the posts will be.
Generally speaking, you probably won't exceed 10 feet between posts/piers. You can exceed that if you incorporate steel beams into your deck design.
How Do I Get Piers in the Right Spot?
The placement of the concrete piers that support your deck posts is very critical. I discovered long ago from a fellow carpenter a fairly easy way to get them perfect each time. Once again, if your deck is low to the ground, this will be very easy to do.
I’ve found it best to create the actual outline of the deck using the deck lumber. This means you’ll connect the ledger board to your home using all the approved flashings and internal metal connectors ensuring this board will not pull away from your home.
You then attach the two end joists that extend out from the house and cap those with the band board joist that runs parallel with the ledger board along the house. You now have a square or rectangular box. Suspend this box in the air with temporary posts made from 2x4s or 2x6s. Make sure the box is level and square.
To square up this box, lay flat 2x4s on the top of the box that extends from the center of the end joists to the ledger board and to the outer band board. These should be oriented roughly at a 45-degree angle across the top box. When the diagonal measurements from one corner to the opposite corner across the box are equal, the box is square. Making sure the measurements are the same, put two nails at each end of the flat 2x4s.
You can now suspend an old-fashioned and reliable plumb bob from each corner of the box to the ground. These two points on the ground can be used to help you calculate the exact position of your concrete piers based on the deck plan you’re using. Let me know how it works out!
I can call you on the phone to solve your bathroom fan leaking cold air problem. The call is FREE if you're not satisfied with my solution.CLICK HERE to set up the call.
DEAR TIM:My husband and I purchased a small ranch home built in the 1950s. A year ago we installed new exhaust fans in the bathrooms, kitchen, and basement. Last winter I noticed cold air would fall out of the fan covers when the fan was not operating. The small bathroom is now the coldest room in the house. Did we make a mistake? Why is cold air coming into the house? What's the best way to exhaust the air from the bathrooms? Because heating costs are rising, we must stop or minimize the cold air infiltration. Jill L-H., Maumee, OH
DEAR JILL: My gut reaction is that you did nothing wrong. My experience tells me that you probably didn't do some extra things that would have made a big difference.
Unfortunately, these extra added touches don't come as part of the written instructions with many exhaust fans. I have never seen these tips on a sheet of paper. When you install as many fans as I have, you start to learn what works best.
Let's briefly discuss the dynamics of what is happening with the exhaust fans. I assume you used the suggested smooth-metal piping to connect the fan to the exterior of your home. My guess is the bathroom fan exhaust pipe is located in a cold attic space.
If so, the pipe gets very cold when the fan is not in use. This cold pipe can cause the air inside the pipe to go from warm to cold.
Cold air is denser and heavier than warm air and wants to go down, not up. This is why you feel it fall down out of the exhaust fan cover.
Should Pipe Joints be Sealed?
Metal pipe joints should be sealed with special metal duct tape used by professional HVAC contractors.
Cold air from the attic can also be entering the joints in the metal piping if they are unsealed. It is an excellent idea to use aluminum duct tape that heating and cooling contractors use to seal ducts.
This is an inexpensive special tape you often can only find where furnaces, air conditioners and ductwork are sold. Do not confuse this professional tape with the common duct tape sold at home centers and hardware stores.
This is very cool duct tape. Pros never use the crap tape you see at home centers. This tape is thin aluminum with a strong adhesive. CLICK THE IMAGE NOW TO ORDER SOME.
Should a Bath Fan Vent Outdoors?
All bath fans should vent or exhaust to the outdoors. Never allow a bath fan to dump moist air into an attic.
Should Bath Fans Have an Internal Damper?
Bath fans should have an internal flapper damper that blocks cold air. These dampers usually fit poorly inside the fan housing and the cold air can seep by them. If you want to stop cold air, you need to have a great damper, or double damper at the exhaust hood where the air leaves your home.
Should Vent Hoods Have a Sealed Door?
Some vent hoods made by the fan manufacturers have swinging doors that have a felt seal. These are not bad. I've had decent success with these.
But the best vent hood I've ever used to stop cold air is one that exits the sidewall of your home and has a double damper. These are ingenious and inexpensive bathroom exhaust vent hoods that are very easy to install. Here's the one I have at my own home:
Look at the double doors. This keeps pests out and prevents cold air from backdrafting into your home. CLICK THE IMAGE to order it now.
Where Should a Bath Fan Exhaust Outdoors?
A bath fan can exhaust through the roof or you can go out a sidewall of your home.
Exhausting bath exhaust out a roof is the safest and best method. This ensures all humid air from showers and baths will never rot any wood. If you exhaust bath air under, or near, a roof overhang, the humid air can get sucked into the attic through soffit vents. This moisture can condense on the trusses, roof rafters and roof sheathing and cause wood rot and mold growth.
What Vent Flashing is Used on the Roof?
I prefer to install a roof vent that is made to compliment the high-quality exhaust fans I install. Most high-quality exhaust fans, and I've installed Fantech in my own home with great results, come with a special hood that's made to be used with shingles, shakes, or metal roofs. The Fantech exhaust fans are very quiet because you install the motor up in an attic or at some other location away from the bathroom. These fans vacuum the air out of the bathroom and you simply don't hear much noise at all.
Here's a typical Fantech bath exhaust fan setup. The odd cone-shaped metal thing is the fan. The two boxes that have the round white covers are place up in the ceiling joists of the bathrooms. All you see are the sleek round white covers. They come with and without lights! I LOVED these in my last house. CLICK THE IMAGE TO BUY the SET NOW.
These self-flashing exit caps have a great flapper damper with a felt seal that really closes tightly when the fan is not in use. Virtually no air works its way back down my exhaust pipes so long as the flapper is checked annually for dirt and debris buildup.
It is also a great idea to insulate the metal pipe in any unconditioned space where it passes. If the metal pipe is not insulated, the moist humid air in the pipe will condense on the side walls. Often this water finds its way back to the fan and drips into the bathroom. Many a homeowner thinks they have a roof leak, when in fact the issue is condensation inside the pipe.
I prefer to spray the metal exhaust pipes with foam insulation. This insulation is available in aerosol cans and is quite easy to work with. Be sure to clean the exterior of the metal pipe with soap and water as the metal pipe often is coated with a fine film of oil from the manufacturing mill. Wear very old clothes when working with the spray foam. Many foams have a urethane component and if the urethane foam gets on the clothes and dries, you can't get it off.
Be sure the entire length of the exhaust pipe is insulated all the way from the fan to the underside of the roof where it exits the house. This insulation will provide a secondary benefit by preventing or minimizing condensation inside the exhaust pipe. Many people think they have a roof leak during winter months as the exhaust fans operate. In most cases the water is simply condensation that forms against the cold sidewalls of the exhaust pipe and then runs downhill back to the fan.
WATCH these Bath Fan VIDEOS:
Not all exhaust fans are created equal. Some have low-powered fans that can barely push open the first flapper damper much less the second flapper at the roof. As with many consumer products, the things that work better and are more reliable often cost more. When you shop for fans you will be shocked to discover it only costs a little more money to get a very high-quality fan.
Can I Install a Remote Fan in an Attic?
You can install a remote fan in an attic. The advantage is the fan noise is not above your head in the bathroom. The remote fan can be 10, 20, or 30 feet away from the bathroom.
If you want the best bathroom exhaust fan, I recommend you get the Fantech fan that I had in the last home I built. I loved them so much, I had two of them, one for the master bathroom and another one exhausted the air from two back-to-back bathrooms in my home.
Do I Need a Makeup of Fresh Air Intake?
Your house should also be equipped with a makeup or fresh-air intake vent. When exhaust fans, clothes dryers, central vacuum cleaners, fuel-burning furnaces and water heaters and fireplaces operate, they consume vast amounts of air. It is entirely possible that back drafting is happening in the bathroom fan exhaust pipe as it becomes the point of entry for air needed by another appliance that is sucking air from the house.
This fresh-air intake vent will do a great job. You may need several to get enough air indoors to satisfy all fuel-burning appliances. Pipe them with solid 4-inch metal pipe. CLICK THE IMAGE TO ORDER THIS VENT NOW.
Makeup air intake ports can be as simple as a clothes dryer exhaust cap that has holes drilled in the flapper. I have also seen small hoods where the flapper is removed and small galvanized hardware cloth is inserted in its place. These makeup air intake points should be located in the utility room where furnaces and water heaters are located.
DEAR TIM:The builder of my new home has a punch list that is two months old. I've grown tired of waiting for him to come and make these minor adjustments. But several things need immediate attention:
1. An interior door swings closed when I want it to stay opened.
2. The joint between the tile and bathtub is open and needs caulking again.
3. A hall light fixture consumes light bulbs. I have put in three bulbs in two months.
How can I fix these things or how can I twist the arm of the builder to fix them? Frances D., Redmond WA
DEAR FRANCES: I think many builders fall down when it comes to punch lists for several reasons. First, many lose interest in the job. They need a new challenge and move onto the next home to be built. Second, they're poor business people.
Many builders fail to realize that happy customers generate new sales. Happy customers tell their friends and neighbors about great contractors who finish jobs.
Your builder's absence could be a money issue. If you've already paid the builder all money that is due, only his honor will bring him back to your doorstep. You must ALWAYS hold onto enough money to finish whatever things are not done at your home. When the builder has completed the job and you're happy, then pay him immediately.
Believe me, the money that's withheld is a strong incentive for the builder to finish.
Less Stress
As much as I would like to see the AWOL builder do this work, I think you can fix the three things you mention and many others on your list in the time it might take you to call the missing builder several times.
Not only will this lower your stress, but you'll also possibly achieve a level of quality equal to or greater than what the builder might produce.
Bend the Pin
The pesky door that has a mind of its own is very easy to remedy. You will need a flat-bladed screwdriver and a hammer for this task. The door is closing because its weight is overpowering the well-lubricated hinges. You solve the problem by introducing extra friction into the hinges.
Bending one or more of the hinge pins will create this needed friction. I prefer to start with the top hinge as it typically has more lateral force on it than the middle or lower hinges. Use the hammer and screwdriver to remove the hinge pin from the hinge. To insure that you do not stress the remaining hinges, fit several wood shims under the bottom of the door so it does not droop when the hinge pin is removed.
Once the hinge pin is removed, take it outdoors and lay it on a concrete surface. Using your hammer, strike the pin in the center of the shaft. This blow will create a bend in the hinge pin. Insert the bent pin into the hinge, remove the wood shims and test to see if the door closes on its own. If it does, remove another hinge pin and bend it as well. Typically you just have to bend one hinge pin to get the desired result.
Caulking the tile joint at the tub is a simple chore. Buy a tube of water-based mildew-proof caulk and follow the directions on the tube. Carefully rim the tip of the tube so the hole is the same size as the crack.
Watch the following Easy DIY Caulking Tutorial VIDEO:
Apply the caulk carefully so that just a little extra caulk is left above the actual crack. Slide your finger across the fresh caulk to force it into the crack and to smooth its surface. Immediately wipe the joint with a damp sponge several times to remove any excess caulk that smeared onto the tub or the tile.
Bend the Tab
The electrical light that eats light bulbs is a common problem. The brass tab at the base of the socket has been bent down too far.
This may have been a manufacturing defect or the first person who inserted the original bulb over-tightened the bulb. Electrical arcing is probably taking place between the bottom of the bulbs and the brass tab because of poor contact.
It doesn't take long before the arcing eats a hole in the bottom of the bulb. When this happens, the gas in the bulb escapes and the filament burns up rapidly.
Turn off the circuit breaker that supplies current to this fixture. Use a voltage tester to make sure the current is off.
Once you are positive there is no current, use a needle-nosed pliers to pull the tab back up. Do this carefully so as not to break the brass tab. You generally only have to pull the tab back up one quarter inch or so. When you insert a new bulb, do not over-tighten it!
A residential steel beam is very common in most homes. Most are 8 inches tall, but 10 or 12-inch-high beams allow you to span greater distances with fewer pesky columns.
Revised February 2018
Residential Steel Beam TIPS
Beams come in all sizes, thicknesses, weights, lengths and galvanized
Steel columns supporting beams should be welded and the columns filled with sand
Watch VIDEOS below about beams & columns!
Taller beams allow you to put columns farther apart
Structural engineers or architects must size beams
DEAR TIM:My house plan calls for steel beams that will support the floor joists and even parts of a brick wall. Can I substitute wood beams for steel? Is a steel I beam hard to handle on the jobsite?
Do you think I can install one with some friends? How can you get the best steel beam prices as my budget is pretty tight? If I find a used steel beam, do you see any problems incorporating that into my new home? Steve B., Cinnaminson, NJ
DEAR STEVE: Steel I beams are pretty husky structural components used sparingly on a residential building site, because wood is the primary structural material found in most homes.
However, steel is a ho-hum material on a commercial or industrial construction project as it’s the mainstay of these larger projects where wood is scorned because of its inherent fire danger and limited characteristics as buildings get big.
Residential Steel Beam Video - Exposed Beams For Modern Look
This video has lots of great photos of steel beams used in homes. You may get inspiration from watching this. It's worth it.
Architects and engineers employ steel beam design in homes for both beams and columns because it’s so strong. You can typically hold up the same loads with wood, but you need more of it and usually the size of a wood beam is much larger than a steel I beam, that’s holding up the same amount of weight.
Termites and other wood-destroying insects don’t eat steel, so that’s a distinct advantage if you want certain parts of your home to remain standing.
You can substitute, in many cases, a wood beam for a structural steel beam. If you desire to do this, be sure you have a structural engineer, or an architect, specify the material and the needed supports.
If you do use steel, pay close attention to the connection details at the steel beam support. The connections between the beam and columns must be secure.
Steel is Heavy - Human Crane Lifts Kitchen Steel Beam Video
Watch this video to see how many men can lift a steel beam. Better have people you can TRUST doing this!
Don't rely on simple thin straps on top of columns that bend over the bottom flange of the beam. These tabs are just temporary measures until a welder shows up.
Do NOT Put Masonry On A Wood Beam
I would never install masonry on a wood beam. There's too great a chance the wood will deflect and cause failures in the masonry. What’s more, it may be a building-code violation in your area.
Steel beams, as you might suspect, are heavy. Steel beam dimensions and sizes are not the same. You can have two different beams that are nearly identical in height and length, but one may weigh twice as much as the other beam.
Typically, you’ll see beam sizes called out in numeric form like 8x17. Usually this means the steel beam is very close to 8 inches tall and weighs 17 pounds per linear foot. This is a very common size found in many residential homes. But you can get 8-inch-tall steel I-beams that weigh over 35 pounds per foot. I installed 10x31 beams in the last house I built for myself.
Two Men Setting a Residential Steel Beam
Watch these two corn-fed men put a steel beam in place in less than two minutes! WOW!
The issue with the typical 8x17 steel beams you find in many homes is they require support columns about every 8 feet on average. If you go to finish a basement, these columns are problematic.
You can avoid lots of columns by installing a taller beam. The taller the beam, say 10 or 12 inches rather than 8 inches, the greater the distance you can span between support posts. I had spans as great as 14 feet in my own basement using the 10x31 steel beams.
Heavier beams can sometimes span greater distances between posts. An 8x35 steel beam can carry more weight than an 8x17. A structural engineer or savvy architect can refer to his steel-beam guide and determine all of this for you.
Rust Prevention for a Residential Steel Beam - Galvanize or Paint
If you're going to be using steel in a wet area and are worried about rust, you can order them hot-dipped galvanized. I worked with galvanized beams and columns for a job I did at an orphanage in Jamaica. The cost is higher, but if you need that rust protection, realize it's available.
If you can't afford galvanizing, then prime and finish paint the steel beams and columns before you install them. Put on three coats of paint for the best protection and use a special rust-preventative paint made for steel.
Here's a spray paint that's great for steel beams and columns. It contains a metal primer. This brand also is available in quart or gallon cans if you have LOTS of steel to paint.CLICK THE IMAGE TO ORDER IT NOW.
But take a moment and do the math. Let’s say you have a ranch home and a 40-foot-long 8x17 beam is called for in the plans. You can have that beam delivered to your building site.
Don’t try lifting it yourself, as it weighs almost 700 pounds. A smaller beam that long presents handling challenges as well because it will be like a wet piece of spaghetti when you pick it up with all your friends. If you’ve never handled beams before, it’s best to work with smaller ones before trying to handle long pieces of steel.
Steel Is Cheap - Well Worth The Investment
Steel is a commodity, and its price fluctuates. The current steel beam price you have to pay for new steel may not be bad as you might think. Currently, the market is depressed and supply may be far greater than demand. You may be pleasantly surprised to discover that you can purchase a construction steel beam for not much money.
You may be able to find decent steel beams from a demolition contractor who routinely salvages them from buildings. They sell them for scrap, so the price you pay will usually be much less than that of a new beam. However, you have all sorts of challenges when dealing with used beams. You might not get the exact size you need, the beams can be bent and you have to figure out how to transport it to your job site. My guess is a demolition contractor is not set up to do this for you. But stranger things have happened.
At the end of the day when you compare all the costs involved in obtaining a used beam instead of a new one, you may discover there’s not that much of a difference in price. In any event, be sure the beams you use are primed and painted to prevent or minimize rust. Scroll up to get the best paint.
Steel Columns
I'd never use wood to support a steel column. It's best to use steel. Round steel columns are the universal standard in residential construction. The issue is in a fire, the steel columns can soften and the beam can collapse.
You can avoid steel columns from bending and failing in a fire by filling them with dry sand. Just order the steel column with a 1/2-inch hole drilled about two inches down from the top. Use a plastic tube and a funnel to pour the sand into the column.
Be sure you have a welder weld the steel column to the underside of the beam for the best connection. You can also have the steel fabricators drill holes in the bottom of the beam flange and bolt the column to the beam. You'll have to price out each option to see what's the most economical in your area.
If you decide to try to erect the steel yourself on a job site, be very aware of the dangers. The pockets in a poured concrete foundation are not that deep and if you’re not careful the beam can slide out of one end while you’re futzing with the other end of the beam.
To level beams in pockets you need solid-steel shims of different thicknesses. Never use wood shims, even treated lumber that is not supposed to rot. The heavy loads on the beam can compress the wood over time.
Steel beams can be blown over by wind if they are not secured. I’ve seen beams collapse after a rainstorm saturated clay soil causing it to expand and lift up columns that are supporting the beams. Hundreds of pounds of weight floating above your head and body on a construction site are never to be underestimated.
The size of steel beams and the size and spacing of the steel columns that support the beams needs to be done by a trained and educated professional. You can't guess and hope the beams and columns will work. Hire a structural engineer or an architect that has deep experience in sizing beams and columns when you decide to install or modify any you might be working with in your home.
Author's Notes
I received the following email from James Calhoun, who is an Architect. He wrote:
"Tim, something you might want to know. Most municipality building codes do now allow used structural elements, like old steel beams, to be placed into new constructions without certifications by an Architect or Engineer (who in their right mind would do that...) or a serious (50%) devaluation of the rated structural capability of the member. Otherwise, you did a good piece on the advantages of steel in residential structures. I design steel for homes all the time."
