Brown Stains on Side of House

Posted on January 9, 2017 by Tim Carter

Brown Stains on Side of House TIPS Below

Brown Stains on House TIPS:

Cedar has natural preservative chemicals that dissolve in water
Stains originate just above metal z-flashing
Weather conditions before stain appeared are critical
Carpenters installed z-flashing wrong
Cedar was not painted on back and edges
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Pete lives near the seacoast in southeastern New Hampshire.

He emailed me the following photos on January 8, 2017, showing brown stains on the side of his house. This date provides a very important clue as to the problem. Here's what he had to say:

"My family and I built our new home (we general contracted it) and we moved into it in November of 2015. Since then there haven't been any issues with the siding, however a week ago I noticed a bunch of brown streaks/stains on the east side of the house. I thought it was bird droppings at first so I power washed it off. Fast forward a week later and the stains have reappeared in the same spot. After further research, it looks like I likely have water getting behind the cedar shingles, and from there it is going down the OSB (ZIP System) until it hits a horizontal trim piece which you can see from the pictures. From there, the water is flowing out over the trim piece and down the white James Hardie board siding.

There is a window directly above where the stains are occurring so I'm wondering if somehow water is getting in from above or directly below the window. I haven't had a chance to get a ladder out and take a closer look yet. I don't think the water is getting behind the cedar from way up above the window because you can see a horizontal trim piece above the window and there is no staining on it. If the water was getting in above that point, I expect the water would flow out once it got down to this trim piece and cause some staining up there.

It also looks like there is some very minor staining elsewhere at the corner of the house about 15 feet away from the main staining under a gutter. I'm thinking these may not be related but I'm not sure. What does everyone think is causing the staining and where is the water getting in if you had to make an educated guess?

Also, I didn't mention that the walls are insulated with closed cell spray foam and under the cedar is Benjamin Obdyke Hyrdrogap wrapping and Zip System OSB with taped seams."

Here are the photos Pete sent. Below them I'll address the possible issues and what I think is going on.

Here's my autopsy report dated January 9, 2017.

Here are important facts:

The siding is cedar
The previous year in New Hampshire was very dry and extreme drought conditions were happening where this house is located
The stains first appeared after one year
The stains appeared in cold weather, although there has been some rain in southeastern NH in the past month
The z-flashing above the top white horizontal fascia board that goes behind the siding extends over to the soffit adjacent to the gutter

Cedar and redwood contain natural chemical preservatives that dissolve in water. The technical name for the stains on Pete's house are extractive chemical stains. Because they dissolve in water, that's why Pete was able to wash them off the first time.

I'm at a disadvantage because I've not been on a ladder to inspect the problem closely, but my first suspicion is improperly installed z-flashing above the topmost white horizontal fascia board.

The carpenters could have installed this flat with hard 90-degree bends instead of making the part on top of the flat edge of the white trim slope towards the outer bend. By making the bend in the metal flashing more than 90 degrees, it creates a tilted profile so water rapidly drains off.

The z-flashing also has another obvious defect. The front edge that's visible should have come down across the face of the horizontal white fascia board about 3/8 inch and then had a 30-degree bend on the last 3/8 inch of material so the bottom edge of the metal in no way touches the white board.

Allowing the metal to touch the board creates a capillary attraction issue for the water that comes to the bottom tip of the z-flashing. This water can be drawn back up underneath the metal because of the natural surface tension in water.

My guess is the carpenters didn't work with the painters on the project. the cedar siding should have been pre-painted on all sides and edges two coats before it's installed. This would prevent water from soaking into the wood and dissolving the extractive preservatives.

I'm also quite certain the carpenters probably placed the starter row of cedar shingles/shakes in contact with the z-flashing. This is a critical mistake. They should have been held up off the back bend of the metal at least 3/8 inch. If the shingles/shakes are in contact with the 90-degree metal the unpainted bottom of the shingles/shakes readily absorbs the rainwater that collects on this ledge.

The stained water on the flashing is then running over to the end corner of the house and running down to the soffit and getting onto the gutter.

Finally, my guess is the z-flashing has simple overlapping joints. I'm guessing it's also made from aluminum coil stock. You can't solder aluminum. Any lap joints should have been made with interlocking hammered flat seam joints to prevent water infiltration.

Properly Size Your Water Lines

Posted on January 9, 2017 by Tim Carter

Size water line - The red arrows point to a large-diameter 1-inch feed line for all the hot water in a home. Behind it on the wall are smaller-diameter 5/8-inch supply lines to each fixture. Copyright 2021 Tim Carter

"Waterline size determines the amount of water flowing from a pipe. Bigger is better if you want lots of water in a short time."

Revised February 2021

Size Water Line TIPS

Larger diameter water lines create less friction
1-inch pipe less than 100 feet to a house is good
Size Water Line Videos BELOW
8-inch-diameter water main supplies hundreds of homes
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My guess is that most people don't think twice about the water that will flow from the faucets in their new homes. You may not even give a second thought to the noise water makes when rushing through water lines.

Because you are moving into a new home, my guess is you might assume a waterfall of water will cascade from each faucet and hose bib.

Don't count on it. Your builder or plumber may have made a few mistakes that can restrict the amount of water that flows from faucets. These same mistakes can also cause significant water pipe noise that drowns out conversation and other pleasant sounds around your home.

Size Water Line Video

This short video is fantastic. Pay attention to the first two numbers he quotes!!! HUGE difference in volume for just a tiny increase in pipe diameter!

If you live near a water tower, you want to be as far downhill from it as possible. Usually, these towers are placed at high points in the landscape. To have the best water pressure, you want to be in a valley with as much vertical distance as possible between you and the bottom of the tank. The greater this distance, the greater the hydrostatic pressure.

High Water Pressure From Elevation

In Cincinnati, Ohio for example, if you have a home in the Mill Creek valley below all the hills above you where the water tanks are, your water pressure could easily be in excess of 200 pounds per square inch (PSI). The land above the valley is 400 feet higher in elevation. The weight of the water in the pipes between the valley and the hills above presses down and creates very high pressure.

If you are trying to push water up a pipe from a basement to a second floor, gravity is doing its best to exert an opposite force against the water pressure. Gravity becomes your friend and increases water pressure if you store your water up on your roof, but how many people do you know have 5,000-gallon storage tanks in their attics?

This is what you'll find in large office towers, hotels, hospitals and other buildings where lots of people could be using the plumbing system at the same time.

3/4 Inch Is Okay | 1 Inch Is Better

You need to have lots of water capacity coming into your home, even if you don't need it all the time. For most homes in most cities, a 3/4-inch line might be sufficient, but if you have the opportunity to specify the pipe size, put in a 1-inch line. I'm a master plumber and believe me, you'll never regret doing it.

Plumbers and builders know that people rarely turn on more than three or four plumbing faucets at the same time. But it can happen.

If you want a plentiful supply of water to flow from each faucet, you must be certain that the main water line entering the house and the main feed line within the house is at least three-quarter inch in diameter or possibly one-inch in diameter. This larger sized pipe can carry a significant amount of water.

Size Water Line Software

Watch this short video to see computer software that will help you SIZE your water lines. It's from Australia, but the principals are the same all over the world.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from plumbers in your city or town to help increase your water pressure.

Rural Well Water Pipes

Be sure your well digger puts in a 1 and 1/4-inch plastic line from the well to the inside of your home. Usually, it's a short distance and you'll never regret the larger pipe. Remember, it's easy to put in the right size pipe when the trench is open. If you try to do it later, it's an enormous, expensive, job.

If your home is far away from the water main, up a hill and it's a monster job to install a water line, you can't make a mistake. It's well worth a $500 fee, even $750, to pay a mechanical engineer to size the water line you need. It's very possible you may need a 2 or 2.5-inch diameter water line if your home is 500, or 1,000, feet from the city water main. Do NOT GUESS. You'll regret it.

Install Large Pipes to ALL Bathrooms!

All too often, a rookie plumber might start to prematurely reduce the size of the water lines in a home. If you see one-half inch diameter water lines that serve two or more fixtures, trouble may be just around the corner. If your new home has three or more bathrooms, consider keeping the cold water pipe size one inch until it has served the water heater, the first bathroom group and possibly one or two outdoor hose bibs.

The main water line can then be reduced to three-quarter inch diameter to serve the remaining bathrooms, laundry room, hose bibs, etc. One-half inch diameter pipes can branch off the three-quarter inch line to serve individual fixtures. Extend the three-quarter inch line until you get to the final two or three fixtures in the house.

This is very important if you want great pressure and volume in all bathrooms.

Large-Diameter Pipes are Quieter

Pipe noise is also a function of pipe size. Larger diameter pipes create less noise because the velocity of the water moving through the pipe towards the fixture is lower. You can also minimize pipe noise by specifying a thicker pipe size.

If you are using copper tubing in your new home, it is very likely that type M copper will be used indoors. This is the thinnest pipe allowed by most plumbing codes. Thin pipes transmit noise more readily than thicker-walled pipes.

Use Thicker Pipes Too

The next thicker pipe type is L copper. Look at a piece of L vs. M copper and you will not see any difference. But pick up a 10-foot long piece of each and you will immediately realize the type L copper weighs more. This extra copper absorbs sound.

The fantastic news is that the cost upgrade for type L copper in a typical residential home is less than $275.00. (2017 prices) This is a one-time fee that allows you to have quiet water supply piping for the life of the home. It is a very small price to pay for peace and quiet.

Drill Large Pass-Through Holes

Finally, be sure the pipes are not in a bind as they pass through wall studs, wall plates and floor joists. The holes need to be slightly oversized so the water pipes can expand and contract freely.

Pieces of rubber that absorb vibration can also be installed between the pipes and any wood framing. Installing the strips of rubber can be a hassle, but any acoustical engineer will tell you it helps to stop noise transmission.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from plumbers in your city or town to help increase your water pressure.

Bulletin NH007

Coal Fire on Titanic Sinks Ship No Way

Posted on January 8, 2017 by Tim Carter

Coal Fire on Titanic

There was a recent story floating around the Internet that a coal fire may have contributed to the sinking of the HMS Titanic.

CLICK HERE to read one of the stories.

I'm a master plumber, albeit not a PhD metallurgist, and am here to tell you that if you try to unsolder a fitting from a copper pipe that's filled with water, you'll get nowhere fast.

The water sucks all the heat out of the copper never allowing it to get to the several-hundred-degree temperature needed to melt the solder.

So think now about the HMS Titanic. Put on your high school physics hat.

A large fire in the coal bunker would create all sorts of horrible smoke. Were there any historical mentions of this smoke?

If the fire was immediately next to the steel hull, the ship passing through icy water the entire journey would not have seen the steel temperature get very hot at all. The ship moving through the water provided constant cooling to the steel, quite unlike an acetylene torch aimed at a tiny copper pipe filled with a small amount of water.

In other words, the steel hull was being cooled constantly much like you see water flowing over a spinning wet-diamond cutting blade. I'll mention the water used to cool these blades is rarely at 34 F.

Whenever you read sensational stories about things like this, stop and use some common sense.

Extension Cords Size Chart

Posted on January 8, 2017 by Tim Carter

Extension cord sizing is not a guessing game. This is a beefy 12-gauge extension cord. This is the male end in my hand and the female end has a small glowing light in it when energized. Copyright 2018 Tim Carter

"Electricity encounters friction as it travels through electrical wires. Knowing this, use only as much extension cord as you really need. I can call you on the phone to answer your extension cord questions so you don't get KILLED or BURN DOWN YOUR HOME. The call is FREE if you're not satisfied with my answers. CLICK HERE to set up the call."

Extension Cord Sizing Checklist

Determine the amperage of the tool/appliance
Calculate cord length - use the shortest possible cord.
Wire gauge determines amperage load
Watts = Amps X Volts Example: 2,400 watts = 20 amps X 120 volts
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The size of your extension cord is very important. If you under-size one, you can start a fire or ruin an expensive tool.

CLICK on my face to ensure you get the CORRECT extension cord so you or your family doesn't DIE IN A FIRE.

Fortunately, many common small hand-held electrical tools can operate without danger of motor damage when powered by a 16 gauge cord that is 100 feet long. To make sure you're properly protected, use the following sizing guidelines below.

How Do You Start to Size an Extension Cord?

You start to size an extension cord by obtaining the motor amperage from the plate on the tool. You'll find this information on the small metal plate where the serial number and model number is listed.

Usually, you will see an amperage rating. A tool may say it's rated for 8 amps. That's amperage.

What is Ohms Law?

Ohm's law is a physics principle that helps keep you safe with electricity. In its simplest form Ohm's law is:

Volts X Amps = Watts

This simple formula helps you to understand the sizing of extension cords because you may be required to convert an amp rating on a tool or appliance to watts.

Think about a light bulb. They're often sized by watts. The voltage in most circuits in USA homes is 120 volts. You may have a circuit breaker panel in your garage that has 15 or 20-amp breakers. All of these things concern Ohm's Law.

If for some odd reason, you see watts listed instead of amps, you can convert watts to amps easily!

Here is how you do that: The formula for the conversion is:

Voltage x Amps = Watts

120 x 20 = 2,400

120 x 15 = 1,800

Because we use 120 volts as an electrical standard here in the USA, that means that every 600 watts equal 5 amps (120 x 5 = 600).

What is Voltage Drop?

Voltage drop is the loss of voltage as it travels down a long wire.

Voltage drop is real. Electricity encounters resistance as it travels through electrical wires. Knowing this, use only as much extension cord as you really need. Resistance in the real world often creates friction which in turn almost always creates heat.

You can do your own simple experiment to demonstrate somewhat how this works. Use your one hand to rub your forearm back and forth. Go slowly at first and you may not feel much. Increase the speed of going back and forth and press down harder as you rub. That increased resistance will make your skin feel HOT for sure!

In other words, don't use a 100-foot cord for a project that is only 20 feet away. Purchase and maintain an assortment of different length cords.

Can I Have Multiple Tools On 1 Cord?

Yes, you can have multiple tools operating on one extension cord. You just have to be sure the cord is large enough to handle the loads.

I was guilty of this infraction many years ago before I fully understood all that was involved.

On construction sites, we'd commonly feed multiple saws and drills from one cord. If the circuit breaker at the panel is working fine, then you'll pop the breaker if there's a current overload.

But, if you've got a smaller-gauge extension cord, it's possible to overheat the cord and melt the insulation before the circuit breaker would trip!

However, if the breaker is bad you can either burn up the cord or damage tools from voltage drops. Use common sense.

How Do You Size an Extension Cord?

You size an extension cord by first determining the appliance or tool that will be plugged into the cord.

Determine the amperage of the tool(s) being used. Here is a handy list of some common electric power tools. The average amperage is listed below the tool. Always check on your tool label for its specific amperage.

Here are some COMMON amperage ratings of tools around your home:

Circular saw: 12-15 amps
Power drill: 3-7 amps
Hedge Trimmer: 2-3 amps
Weed Wacker: 2-4 amps
Electric Chain Saw: 7-12 amps
Leaf Blower: 6-12 amps
Electric Lawn Mower: 6-12 amps
Table Saw: 14-20 amps!
Reciprocating Saw: 6-8 amps
Router: 4-6 amps

Is the Length of the Cord Important?

Yes, the longer the cord is the greater the voltage drop will be. If you must go a distance greater than 100 feet, then upsize the extension cord.

Calculate the length of the cord you will need. Of course, you want to determine the maximum distance you think you will be from a permanent electrical outlet.

What Does Wire Gauge Mean?

Wire gauge is the measure of the diameter of the metal conductors in the extension cord. Common extension cord wire gauges are:

Use the following list to select the proper gauge extension cord. Remember, wire gauge refers to the thickness of the actual copper wire. As a wire gets thicker it can carry more electricity (amps). To confuse us, some idiot decided that as a wire gets thicker (bigger) the gauge number should get smaller!

The orange cord is only 18 gauge. Look how thin it is compared to the yellow cord that's 12-gauge. NOTE the 18-2 before the word TYPE in the red oval. That's how you know it's 18-gauge wire. Copyright 2018 Tim Carter

Here's what I mean. A 14-gauge wire can handle LESS current than a 12-gauge wire. The number 14 is bigger than 12. Confused? You should be!

What Load Can Each Gauge Wire Handle?

16-Gauge Cords: Any 16-gauge cord between 0 and 100 feet long will adequately handle tool loads up to 10 amps.

14-Gauge Cords: Any 14-gauge cord between 0 and 50 feet long will adequately handle loads between 10 and 15 amps.

12-Gauge Cords: If your tool load is between 10 and 15 amps and the length of the cord is 50 to 100 feet, you need a 12-gauge cord to safely power any tool.

This is a great extension cord for many purposes. CLICK THE IMAGE NOW to have it delivered to your home.

Why Does my Circuit Breaker Trip With the Right Cord?

Your circuit breaker may trip because the tool you're trying to power draws too much current. This is very common if you're trying to operate a large table saw cutting thick wood.

CAUTION: Most circuits in ordinary houses are wired with 14-gauge solid copper wire. This means you'll see a 15-amp breaker on the circuit breaker panel.

You may purchase a 12-gauge extension cord thinking that you'll be able to operate a powerful table saw but the breaker will probably trip when you load the saw. Remember, the circuit is rated for the SMALLEST SIZED cable or wire in the circuit.

Do Other Things on a Circuit Add to the Load?

Yes, other things, like a garage light or some other appliance, could be on the same circuit you've plugged the extension cord into. This adds to the total load on the circuit! You may think you have 15 amps available going to your extension cord, but several of those amps might be in use from something else.

B174

Asphalt Shingle Warranty Survey

Posted on January 7, 2017 by Tim Carter

Please take the following survey below.

Sewer Gas Smell – There are Many Sources

Posted on January 6, 2017 by Tim Carter

Sewer gas smell often comes from a floor drain like this one. Sewer gas smell can also come from a rooftop vent pipe and I show HOW TO SOLVE the problem on this page. This is a floor drain inside a Men's Room at a hotel. Under the metal grate is a water seal you can't see. Water evaporates allowing the gas to enter the room. Custodians and cleaning personnel need to pour a gallon of water into floor drains like this at least once a week. Copyright 2018 Tim Carter

Sewer gas smell is caused by invisible gas that enters your home from your plumbing pipes. The most common source is dry floor drains. The second-most common source is a bad wax seal under a toilet.

Sewer Gas Smell Tips

Source of the odor is usually where it's strongest
What happened just before you started smelling the odor?
Did you get a new washing machine or have a drain cleaned?
Does something happen just before you smell the odor?
CLICK HERE to Get Tim's FREE & FUNNY Newsletter!

DEAR TIM: My daughter's house has a chronic sewer gas smell problem. The odor is strong when it rains and the furnace or air conditioner is operating.

The odor gets so bad my daughter and her family evacuate the house. Three plumbers have not been able to solve the problem and we have checked all plumbing fixture traps, caulked where the basement floor meets the foundation, etc.

My daughter is ready to sell the house for a loss. Can you help? Dave S., Shelby Township., MI

DEAR DAVE: Sewer gas can be a vexing problem to solve, but it is by no means impossible. As much as I hate to say it, the three plumbers that were consulted are either inexperienced or they do not keep up with technology.

The good news is I doubt your daughter has to move and take a loss. It is my guess the source of the odor can be found and repaired for less than what a moving company would charge just to move your daughter and her family.

Before you read more of my answer, I can SOLVE your sewer gas problem on the phone in less than 15 minutes. I've been a master plumber since age 29 and have solved hundreds and hundreds of sewer gas problems.

satisfaction guaranteed

I've helped HUNDREDS of suffering homeowners just like you and the odor goes away in hours.

CLICK or TAP HERE to order a phone consult from me now.

Tim Carter, Master Plumber and Founder of AsktheBuilder.com

Free & Fast Bids

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local plumbers to stop sewer gas.

Sewer gas smell can enter a room if the water level in a toilet bowl drops this low. Always keep the toilet bowl filled with water to its normal level. Read Sewer Gas Smell in the January 4, 2011 Newsletter. © 2017 Tim Carter

What Causes Sewer Gas?

Sewer gas is created by the decomposition of waste materials that are found in public and private sewer systems and private septic systems. The characteristic odor can be overpowering and it is toxic. To add further insult to injury, the gas is explosive as it often has a methane component.

Are Plumbing Pipes Designed to Prevent Smell?

Plumbing drainage systems are designed to keep this sewer gas inside the pipes and any that does exit to the atmosphere happens outside the home through the vent pipes that poke up through the roofs of houses.

Are Roof Vent Pipes Sewer Gas Exhaust Pipes?

No. Vent pipes on the roof are intake vents, not exhaust vents as most people believe.

When a large volume of water enters a plumbing drain pipe it pushes air in front of it towards the sewer or septic tank. This air must be replaced and it is sucked into the plumbing system through the roof vents.

Can a Dry Trap Cause Sewer Gas Smell?

Yes, a p trap under a fixture that has dried out and lost its water seal will cause sewer gas to enter your home.

The source of the sewer gas can be plumbing fixtures whose traps have gone dry or have lost enough water that the water seal within the trap has broken.

How Fast Can Water Evaporate From A Trap?

Water can evaporate very fast from a trap depending on the temperature and humidity in the house. In the arid Southwest, a trap could dry out in less than a week.

You'd be surprised to discover that water can rapidly evaporate from toilets and the traps below tubs, floor drains and just about any fixture within a few weeks or months in most cases. In fact, when my daughter is away at college I have to flush the toilet in her bathroom every three weeks to keep the bowl filled with water.

If I don't keep the toilet seat down, I have to flush the toilet weekly as some household pets seem to love to drink water from clean toilet bowls.

Is the Wax Gasket Under Toilets a Source of Sewer Gas Smell?

A common source of sewer gas smell is a failed wax gasket seal under a toilet. The wax gasket, when installed correctly, forms both a water and gas-tight seal between the toilet and the plumbing drainpipe system.

A toilet that rocks back and forth as you sit on it is a clue the sewer gas is leaking past a failed wax gasket. Toilets should never move and should have tile grout between them and the floor. Caulk is an inferior sealant because it's flexible.

Can Cracks in Pipes Cause Sewer Gas Odor?

Cracks in either plumbing drain lines or vents pipes are the other source of sewer gas leaks. If the crack is in a drain line, you often see an associated water leak.

But vent pipe cracks are far more elusive. They can leak vast amounts of sewer gas and you might not be able to locate the source easily without a special machine.

Can an AC Drain Pipe Cause Sewer Gas Smell?

Yes, an AC condensate drain pipe can create a foul sewer gas smell. A rancid biofilm can form on the inside of the pipe.

The furnace and air conditioner clue tell me the leak might be in a vent pipe that is close to a return air duct. The leaking sewer gas is being sucked into the return air system and then broadcast throughout the entire house by the air handler in the furnace.

STOP!

Before you read more of my answer, understand now I can SOLVE your sewer gas problem on the phone in less than 15 minutes.

I've helped HUNDREDS of suffering homeowners just like you and the odor goes away in hours.

CLICK HERE to order a phone consult from me now.

Tim Carter, Master Plumber and Founder of AsktheBuilder.com

Can a Smoke Test Find the Sewer Gas Leak?

Yes, sewer gas leaks can be quickly discovered by a plumber who owns a very cool machine that generates artificial smoke. The smoke is simply visual and does not create a lasting odor nor does it stain any surfaces in a house.

The plumber connects the smoke generation machine to the plumbing drain system and then blocks off the drain pipe leading to the sewer and caps off all roof vent pipes.

Once the smoke machine starts, it begins to slightly pressurize the plumbing system. If there is a cracked pipe or a fitting joint that is loose, the smoke readily exits at that point before it would bubble up through a fixture trap filled with water. Usually, the source of the sewer gas leak can be discovered in less than one hour.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local plumbers to stop sewer gas.

Can Vent Pipe Clogs Cause Sewer Gas Smell?

Yes, sewer gas problems can also be caused by plumbing vent pipes that are clogged. This can happen in old homes where a cast iron vent pipe gets clogged by years of rust scale that falls off the inside of the pipe and clogs a 90-degree bend in the pipe.

Tennis balls, leaves, and all sorts of other debris can clog plumbing vent pipes. When a vent pipe is clogged, the replacement air needed by the system will get sucked into the pipes through a fixture inside the house.

When a large amount of water is placed into the drain pipes by a toilet or a powerful washing machine pump, it can readily suck the water out of a nearby bathtub trap or even a kitchen sink trap. Once this happens, sewer gas immediately enters the room through the dry fixture trap.

What Can Be Used to Slow Evaporation in a Trap?

Mineral oil can be used to slow evaporation in traps.

Fill them with water and then slowly pour four ounces of mineral oil into the fixture or floor drain. This mineral oil will evaporate far more slowly than water and the trap will remain wet for many months.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local plumbers to stop sewer gas.

Author's Notes:

I received these emails after my column was printed.

"Tim:

In regard to the sewer odor problem in Shelby township Michigan: If they have a sump pump in the basement and have a french drain around the perimeter of the house, there could very easily be a broken sewer pipe right outside the basement wall. When it rains, tainted water gets in the drain, goes to the sump, odor is in basement, return air to the furnace distributes odor throughout house.

Enjoy your column in the Telegraph Herald."

Dave B., Dyersville

"Hi Tim:

My name is Gary Whiteman of Whiteman Land Service, Curtice, OH. We do pond construction and new home site development.

I read your article in the Toledo Blade, Dec. 18 and noticed that there was no mention of possible sewer gas from homes that have a leach field system. We have had many people complain of sewer gases from their basements. We have found that the cause was due to other contractors who did not remove previous farm drainage tile from under the leach field area and to the home foundation or basement.

Thus, the waste water travels through the farm tile under the leach bed to the drainage tile around the footer and into the sump crock inside the basement. To solve this would be to remove the farm tile between the leachfield and home.

Contractors excavating for the basement or foundation, and also the leach field, should remove these tiles at least twenty-five to thirty feet away from the home area. I hope this info will be helpful.

Regards,"

Gary

"Dear Tim,

We had a perplexing sewer gas odor in our home. After spending over $3,000 in fees with plumbers, locators and other experts, we still had no answer.

Finally a very knowledgeable plumber discovered an illegal connection in our drain system. The person who installed the condensate drain line from our air conditioner installed it without a vent line. Each time our washing machine would pump water into the drain system, the rush of water would siphon out the water in the small trap of the condensate line.

The sewer gas from the main sewer line would then travel up through the condensate line and into the actual air conditioning air handler. When the air conditioner would run, the moving air would suck vast amounts of sewer gas into the ducts and broadcast it through all of the air vents in our home.

Once the condensate line was disconnected from the drain line and piped directly outdoors, our sewer odor disappeared immediately."

Sandra Farmer, Paradise Valley, AZ

Column 599

Ten Secret Drywall Finishing Tips

Posted on January 6, 2017 by Tim Carter

How to finish drywall you ask. Drywall finishing may look easy, but it requires a deft touch. This small section of wall has just about every drywall finish challenge in it: flat and tapered seams, inside and outside corners and an archway! Copyright 2018 Tim Carter

"Drywall finishing requires hand-eye coordination. Some people have it and others simply don't. One of my employees couldn't finish drywall to save his life."

Secret Drywall Finishing TIPS

The joint compound must be creamy like pudding
Leave 1/16-inch layer of mud between drywall and paper tape
Don't try for perfection during second coat
WATCH my drywall finishing videos below!
CLICK HERE to Get Tim's FREE & FUNNY Newsletter

How To Finish Drywall?

You finish drywall with great skills. It takes lots of practice to get professional drywall finishing results. Even if you follow my ten drywall finishing tips that follow, you may not get professional results.

Why? Drywall finishing requires hand-eye coordination.

Some people have it and others simply don't. One of my employees couldn't finish drywall to save his life. I tried and tried to get him to hold the broad knife the right way, but he never could get just the right smooth gliding motion with that knife.

How Are Drywall Taping and Mudding Skills Acquired?

Drywall taping and mudding skills are acquired by lots of practice. You need to be trained by a professional or watch a few of my videos below.

It's important to realize this is a talent that's acquired. It's much like driving. You get to where you know the feel of a car and a road surface.

Finishing drywall is the same. You get a feel for the flexibility of certain tools and the consistency of the joint compound. I say we give it a try. Here are my Ten Tips:

Does the Drywall Need to be Hung Well?

Great drywall finishes begin with superior hanging jobs. The drywall must be tight against the wall studs or the ceiling joists. All screws need to be countersunk just enough to where they do not tear the paper.

There need to be enough fasteners. I like to see screws every 16 inches on walls and every 12 inches on center on ceilings. Tapered seams should be tight. Corner joints or other joints should have a gap of approximately 1/4 inch. A tight seam is best but a slight gap is acceptable.

How Do You Mix the Mud?

You mix drywall mud by adding a small amount of water and then stir it with a paddle attached to a power drill.

Most people use pre-mixed mud in a bucket or a box. This mud is simply too stiff to use. You need to add a little water and whip the mud up to the consistency of creamy cake icing.

It must be lump free. Be careful not to mix too much air into it. If you do, sometimes you get tiny air bubbles in your seams as you apply and finish the mud. Just try to mix the mud slowly. Do NOT add too much water.

Watch this video to see what the mud should look like:

Paper or Mesh Tape?

I have used both. I prefer to use the paper tape in corners and the self-adhesive mesh tape is superb for tapered seams. I will use paper for both with no hesitation. If you have lots of taping to do, fabricate a belt holder using a coat hanger that holds the roll of tape. Or you can buy a handy holder at a drywall supply house.

What are the Best Drywall Finishing Tools?

The best drywall finishing tools are:

a stainless-steel mud pan
a 10-inch stainless-steel broadknife
a 5-inch wide taping knife

I prefer stainless steel broad knives for finishing. I have 10 and 12-inch knives. For taping, I use a flexible steel blade that is about 5 inches wide. My trusty one that's over 25-years old is not stainless steel, but you can now get them.

It's important to use a file to slightly round off the corners of your taping knife. A brand new knife has very sharp corners and they will tear the paper tape as you glide it down a corner seam.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from drywall finishing pros in your town if you're not confident you can do it.

What are the Drywall Finishing Steps?

Here are the drywall finishing steps:

tape flat seams
do inside corners walls and ceilings
tape corner bead corners (see video below)
coat corner bead
second coat
light sand second coat ridges
third coat and skim

I do all of my flat seams first and run the tape to within one-half inch of the corners. I then do the inside corners last so that this tape overlaps the flat seam tape. Before you start to tape, all metal and curved corner bead should be nailed in place.

How Do You Tape Drywall by Hand?

On flat seams, I will apply mud to just about four or five linear feet of seam. I do the same in corners.

I press the tape in place and start to scrape the seam to remove excess mud. I stop about six inches from the end of the excess mud. I then apply more mud to the drywall to proceed.

When Do You Apply the Second Coat of Mud?

You can second coat immediately after you have finished taping. The tape does not have to be dry. It will dry out as the second coat dries.

How Do You Second Coat Inside Corners?

You second coat inside corners one side at a time.

You can't apply the second coat of mud on both sides of a corner at the same time. You do one side on one day and then the other side on day two or after the mud is dry.

You can finish three corner surfaces where a ceiling meets the inside corner of two walls at the same time. If I was looking at an inside corner I could do the right side vertical wall seam of the inside corner, the ceiling side of the right wall/ceiling intersection and the top wall side of the left wall/ceiling intersection.

On the following day, you would coat the remaining three corner surfaces. Corner tape should have a 1/16th-inch layer of mud over the tape once complete.

Does the Second Coat Have to be Perfect?

No, the second coat of mud does not have to be perfect. You should have a slight ridge in the center of taped seams. This ridge gets sanded off later.

Everyone tries to get the second coat perfect! Big Mistake!

The feathered edges where the mud stops and the drywall paper begins must be clean with no excess and the mud must build up from there to a high point at the center of wall and ceiling seams. You will see this ridge line and any lift marks where you pull the knife away from the wall.

Once the mud dries you will quickly sand these off before applying the third coat of mud.

Should Drywall be Primed and Sealed?

Yes, finished drywall should be primed and sealed. This paint coating evens out the porosity and texture of the drywall so the finished paint looks superb.

After you have third coated and finally sanded the seams, corners, and nails, you MUST apply a superb sealer/primer to the walls before you paint. USG Corp makes a fantastic inexpensive paint called First Coat®.

It's ideal. It eliminates joint banding and texture problems that happen when the regular paint is applied to freshly finished drywall. The primer sealer is applied like any other paint and looks milky as you roll it.

But somehow an hour later the wall is snow white! Failure to apply a primer/sealer before painting will negate all of your hard work.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from drywall finishing pros in your town if you're not confident you can do it.

Column B387

How to Toilet Repair

Posted on January 6, 2017 by Tim Carter

Toilet Repair TIPS

Partial Flush - flapper dropping too fast
Phantom Flusher - toilet fills by itself
Noisy Filler - sediment in filler valve
Poor Flush - sediment clogging syphon jet or under-rim holes - see below for EASY DIY fix
CLICK HERE to Get Tim's FREE & FUNNY Newsletter

Weak Toilet Flusher Solution - Easy Cheap Fix

Your weak flushing toilet could be a first-generation 1.6-gallon flush toilet that had horrible engineering. Look inside the tank for a manufacture date stamped in the clay. If it was made during the time period from January 1, 1994 to mid-1997, this could be the problem. No matter what you do, it will not flush right. You may need to install a new toilet.

Newer toilets built just before and after 1998 were much better and allowed the water to flow from the tank into the bowl faster. This is what produces a great flush.

You need LOTS of water to flow into a toilet bowl fast for a toilet to have a vigorous flush. That's why toilets in commercial buildings with a pressurized connection to the water supply system flush so well you think you'll be sucked into the sewer too!

If the toilet was made before 1994, hard water deposits in the siphon-jet hole at the base of the bowl or the angled bowl-rim swirl holes may be the source of your frustration. These deposits reduce the size of the openings and SLOW the flow of water from the tank to the bowl.

You can try to clean them out with wood sticks and oversized toothpicks, but a muriatic acid wash will really do the job.

Watch this video to see the siphon-jet hole and under rim holes:

Here's how to get the old toilet choked with hard-water deposits to flush like new:

Pour four gallons of water AS FAST AS POSSIBLE into the bowl to get most water out of the bowl
With water level low in the bowl, pour in pure muriatic acid into the bowl up to the normal fill level
Allow acid to work for hours or overnight if possible - put lid down to keep pets safe - open a window for fresh air
Neutralize acid by slowly adding small amounts of baking soda to the toilet bowl before you flush toilet
Use a small wood stick to scrape soft deposits from the siphon-jet hole at bottom of bowl AFTER acid is flushed away

IMPORTANT NOTE: Muriatic acid is toxic. Read all safety warnings on the bottle. It will NOT HARM the toilet. If you neutralize it after it works for hours, it will NOT HARM the plumbing pipes nor city sewer system or your septic tank.

Muriatic acid is powerful and needs to be treated with lots of respect. CLICK THE IMAGE TO ORDER SOME NOW.

You should immediately hear fizzing and such. BE CAREFUL of the fumes! Run the bath fan, open a window. DO NOT splash this solution on you, in your eyes, on your clothes, on the carpet, etc. It will not hurt the toilet at all.

Septic System Harm?

You may wonder if the muriatic acid will harm your septic system. The answer is NO if you neutralize it before flushing it out of the toilet.

Let the acid work for hours if possible.

After working to dissolve the hard water deposits, use small amounts of baking soda to neutralize the acid. Add the powder until you no longer see fizzing and bubbling.

Cleaning Toilet Bowl Rim Holes

Mix up a quart of acid and water solution. Mix it one part water to one part acid.

Pour this solution down the overflow tube as fast as you can using a large funnel. Do NOT splash this on you!

The solution you put down the overflow tube in the toilet tank will help open the small holes under the rim of the bowl. These get clogged with hard water deposits too.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local plumbers to fix your toilet.

Strong but Partial Flush

The flapper valve may be waterlogged and dropping too fast. Observe the flapper valve during a flush. It should stay up until about 80 percent or more of the water has drained from the tank. If it drops sooner, install a new flapper.

Phantom Flusher

This is really a phantom filler, as the toilet tank fills with water as if it was just flushed. It simply means that the tank is leaking water. The food coloring dye test will confirm this. Add food dye to the tank after all water has stopped running into the tank. After 5 or 10 minutes, look at the bowl water to see if it is colored. If it is, the flapper is not sealing completely. Time for a new one! CLICK HERE to get the BEST FLAPPER VALVE. Easy DIY install!!!!

The flapper valve is the red item. The blue and black part is the fill valve. You might as well replace both for years of TROUBLE-FREE toilets! CLICK the IMAGE TO BUY IT NOW.

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local plumbers to fix your toilet.

Bowl Water Level Drops

You flush the toilet and all is well. After a period of time, a significant amount of water has left the bowl. Two things may be wrong. Water could be slowly siphoned from the bowl by a partial clog of toilet paper up in the colon of the bowl. You can demonstrate this phenomenon by filling a small soup bowl with water and putting it in the center of a cooking jelly pan. Drape a strip of paper towel from the bottom of the bowl, over the bowl edge and into the jelly pan. Watch what gravity and capillary attraction does in several hours. The bowl will be nearly empty. To see if your toilet has a rag, toilet paper, or something else causing the drainage, empty the bowl of water and then use a flashlight and a mirror to look up inside the colon of the toilet.

In rare cases, the bowl may actually have a crack in the interior colon or piping of the bowl. This problem can only be solved by installing a new bowl.

Double Flusher

The water level in the tank may be set too high. Lower the level and look for improvement.

Whistling Tank Fill

You must have an old technology ball cock valve with a ball float on the end of a rod. As the ball floats higher it begins to slowly close the water fill valve.

This can cause vibrations and all sorts of noise. Toilet tank fill valves that stay wide open until the tank is filled have been around for over 20 years. They are wonderful and they are inexpensive. I use the Fluidmaster valve. Get the best one, not the economy model. CLICK HERE to get the BEST ONE.

Slow Tank Fill

This problem may be a partially closed shut off valve under the tank. A previous owner or a plumber may have restricted the flow of water into the tank for some reason.

Dripping and Tank Filling

After the tank has filled, you hear dripping. Then several minutes later, the tank partially fills with water and the dripping starts again. Then the tank fills and so on and so forth. This problem can be a syphon problem caused by someone who installed a new tank fill valve.

There is a small flexible tube that runs from the bottom of the valve to the top of the toilet overflow tube. As the tank fills, water is also sent through this tube. It is used to refill the toilet bowl since it lost its water during the flush.

If this tube drops down inside the overflow tube, it can, in some instances, syphon water from the tank. New toilet fill valves often have a clip that attaches to the top of the overflow tube and points the water flow down into the tube without actually having the tube enter the tube. Pretty slick? It works too! Use the clip!

Sluggish Flush

The toilet could have a partial clog or the actual clog could be downstream from the toilet. Fill a 5-gallon bucket of water and dump it into the toilet as fast as possible with minimum splashing. If the water disappears fast, then it's not a clog. If water backs up into the bowl and drains slowly, it is a clog.

If the water does disappear fast, then it means the syphon-jet hole is clogged with hard-water deposits. Older toilets had this hole near the bottom of the bowl. Some modern toilets have it up under the rim of the toilet.

Water is not able to exit the tank fast enough to produce enough energy to produce a great flush.

You can solve this issue by dumping another 5 gallons of water in the toilet FAST. Then put into the toilet bowl 12 ounces of muriatic acid. CLICK HERE NOW to order this great product.

Muriatic acid is powerful and needs to be treated with lots of respect. CLICK THE IMAGE TO ORDER SOME NOW.

Put the seat down and don't allow anyone to use the toilet for three hours. The acid will dissolve the calcium deposits.

If the syphon-jet hole is up under the rim, you need to use a turkey baster and squirt an acid solution down into the overflow tube in the tank.

Mix one part acid to five parts water for this solution.

READ all the safety instructions on the acid label.

Suction Sounds in the Tub and Sink

You flush the toilet and gurgling sounds come from your tub and/or bath sink. This means the toilet vent pipe is clogged or partially clogged. A tennis ball, dead bird or twigs thrown by a mischievous son might have dropped down into the rooftop vent pipe may be the problem. Drop a small flashlight that is SECURELY attached to a strong string or wire down the pipe. Look for a clog. Run garden hose water down the rooftop vent pipe to help clear the clog. Be sure you have spotters inside the house who are looking for leaks. You may have to call a professional to solve this problem.

This popular column was shared in the November 20, 2013 AsktheBuilder Newsletter.

Column B332

Installing Drywall In Wet Locations

Posted on January 6, 2017 by Tim Carter

The drywall used around this utility sink should have been the special water-resistant drywall. Instead, the homeowner has had to initiate damage control by sealing the peeling-paint spots on the wall with clear urethane. © 2017 Tim Carter

"Some people think that several coats of high-quality paint will protect the drywall from moisture, but this is not always the best strategy."

Installing Drywall in Wet Locations Checklist

Green board is *not* waterproof - it's water resistant
SECRET TIP: Paint it with CLEAR water-based urethane before finishing
After finishing, apply two coats of CLEAR water-based urethane then paint as desired
WATCH video below for finishing drywall
CLICK HERE to Get Tim's FREE & FUNNY Newsletter!

DEAR TIM: My church group is restoring a house and all of the walls and ceilings in the bathroom and laundry area have been stripped down to the wall studs.

How much water-resistant drywall should we install? Is it best to use it just behind the plumbing fixtures and appliances or should all of the walls and ceiling be covered? John G., Detroit, MI

What is Regular Drywall?

Regular drywall that most people are familiar with is made with a gypsum-based core that is very strong when it is dry. Typically the drywall panels have a thick-paper wrapping that protects the gypsum core from impact and abrasion damage.

But the paper readily absorbs water and can transmit it to the gypsum inside the panel. When this happens, the panel loses its rigidity and either falls apart or it becomes very mushy.

What is Best Drywall Wet Locations?

With this in mind, I don't like to use regular drywall in areas where I think water might come into contact with the wall surface on a regular or even somewhat-regular basis. Some people think that several coats of high-quality paint will protect the drywall from moisture, but this is not always the best strategy.

If water gets behind the paint where the paint stops and a sink top or cabinet edge begins, you have an Achilles heel and damage to the drywall may start if water finds this entry point from time to time.

What is Green Board Drywall?

Green board drywall is a special drywall that's water resistant. The gypsum core has been treated with a water-repellent similar to silicone and the outer paper is reported to be somewhat moisture resistant.

Green board has been in use for decades. I was first introduced to it around 1975 if you can believe that! Many people recognize it from the green-colored paper facing. In fact, it is affectionately called green board by builders and drywall hangers.

It's not a bad product, but I discovered a SECRET TIP (see below) years ago to make it nearly invincible when it gets splashed with water.

Can Green Board Fail?

Yes, the green board can fail if it gets lots of water on it. It can fail faster if it's not allowed to dry out in between periods of getting wet.

What is MMR Drywall?

MMR drywall is mold, mildew, and moisture-resistant drywall. It's the modern name for green board drywall. Look at the features sticker and note what's above the red line:

This is the giant label at a home center listing the features of MMR drywall. Note where NOT to use it! That wording means DO NOT use MMR drywall under tile in tub and shower areas. Copyright 2018 Tim Carter

What is the Best Bathroom Drywall?

The best bathroom drywall is green board. I'd install it on all walls and ceilings in a bathroom so long as you follow the manufacturer's installation instructions. On ceilings, be sure to space the fasteners on 9-inch centers.

Use galvanized drywall screws to attach the green board to the wall studs. Coat the green board with water-based urethane before you start to finish the green board.

I've had great success using this green board drywall behind sinks, toilets and on walls with ceramic tile backsplashes. But before I thought about my SECRET METHOD, I had horrific failures when I used it behind ceramic tile in tub and shower areas.

What is the Best Source of Drywall Facts?

The Gypsum Construction Handbook published by USG, Inc. is the bible of drywall and plaster information. It contains all you need to know to pick the best drywall and how it should be installed.

This is the Bible of hanging and finishing drywall. I recommend you buy this and read the section on drywall. CLICK THE IMAGE to have a copy delivered to your home.

Can Water Vapor Ruin Drywall?

Water and water vapor can readily pass through ceramic tile grout and cause the drywall paper facing to disintegrate. Water-resistant drywall is simply not recommended for areas that are subject to constant moisture. Well, that is unless you think about doing what I've been doing for years. Keep reading!

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local drywall contractors.

Can Green Board Sag on Ceilings?

The water-resistant green board drywall is sensitive to stud spacing. If you decide to use the green board drywall for a ceiling, the joists must be spaced 12 inches on center for 1/2 inch thick drywall. If you have 16-inch on-center spacing, then you need to increase the thickness of the drywall to 5/8 inch for ceilings.

Do You Need a Vapor Barrier With Green Board?

Yes, you need to use a vapor barrier with green board. In bathrooms or other wet locations, water vapor will try to penetrate into wall cavities. This will cause wood rot in cold climates.

Some drywall manufacturers also state that a vapor retarder should not be used under the water-resistant drywall if the visible face of the drywall is covered by a product such as ceramic tile or other water-vapor impervious finish. I believe they are very afraid that water might get trapped within the drywall and cause damage. I don't know that I'd follow this advice on exterior walls in a cold climate. You MUST STOP water vapor from getting into wall cavities.

SECRET TIP is to coat the drywall BEFORE finishing with this amazing urethane product. It WILL STOP water from penetrating into the paper of the drywall. CLICK IMAGE TO ORDER IT NOW.

Can You Make Drywall Waterproof?

Yes, you can make drywall pretty much waterproof if you coat it on all sides and edges with water-based urethane before you install it. After it's installed and finished, then coat it two more times.

The secret tip to making the drywall waterproof is to coat the paper surfaces of the drywall, including the edges, with clear water-based urethane BEFORE you finish the drywall.

This coating soaks into the paper on the drywall so water can't get to the gypsum core and cause deterioration or the delamination of the paper from the core. That's what happens over time is the paper rots away causing the failure you see.

How Soon After Applying the Urethane Can You Mud?

To get the best bond between the urethane-coated drywall paper and the joint compound used to finish the drywall, apply the joint compound within thirty minutes of rolling or spraying on the urethane.

You'll get both a chemical and mechanical bond between the urethane and the glue that's in the joint compound. The bond will be nearly as strong as epoxy if you can do the applications back to back!

Is Urethane a Great Waterproof Coating?

Urethane is a great waterproofing coating. This is why it's used on bar tops and hardwood floors that can get wet.

Any part of the moisture-resistant drywall that's coated with urethane and then painted will do super well. Urethane is extremely sticky. If at all possible, apply the urethane over the drywall that's to be painted and paint/prime within an hour for a chemical and mechanical bond.

What Drywall Fasteners Prevent Rust?

Hot-dipped galvanized fasteners or even stainless steel nails and screws prevent rust. Use these to fasten the drywall panels to the wall studs and ceiling joists. If you use raw steel fasteners, they will rust in time and the wall panels can fall off the walls or ceilings.

At the very least, you will find yourself dealing with unsightly rust stains that appear through the painted surfaces should you cut corners and use the wrong fasteners.

The gypsum core of the water-resistant panels is often treated with a silicone chemical or wax-like substance. You can readily see water bead up if you wet the exposed gypsum core. The problem for years was the failure of the green-colored paper, not the actual gypsum inner core.

Is Mold a Concern With Drywall?

Mold is a concern with any wall covering including drywall. Mold can grow on just about any surface except for solid copper or copper-coated

Because mold is in the forefront of the news, wall and ceiling panel manufacturers are constantly rolling out products that are both water-resistant and even inhibit the growth of mold on the surface of the panel. But as with any new product, always be sure to read the technical literature produced by the manufacturer.

Make sure you use the product as it was designed to be used. Always pay attention to the use of the words: water-resistant and waterproof. Waterproof means liquid water or water vapor will not harm the product. Water-resistant means limited amounts of water will not cause harm.

Can You Create a Waterproof Wall?

You can create a waterproof wall by using a wall covering that is waterproof. Cement board is one option and there are other coverings like fiberglass.

In areas of these rooms that will get heavy concentrations of water, you need to use a waterproof wall material. Remember, the green board drywall is water-resistant, not waterproof.

You can purchase interior panels that match the thickness of regular and water-resistant drywall that are made with cement and sand or a combination of cement, sand and other ingredients.

Furthermore, there are other innovative gypsum core products that are 100-percent waterproof. Use the waterproof wall panels behind the tile and in any location where you expect water to be regularly splashed onto a wall surface.

This column was SO GOOD that I shared with the 31,000 subscribers who read my January 8, 2017 AsktheBuilder Newsletter.

Column 560

January 5, 2017 AsktheBuilder Newsletter

Posted on January 5, 2017 by Tim Carter

Happy New Year! I hope yours is off to a good start. Mine is.

Three hours ago, I was having breakfast with two friends, Jim and Janey. I worked with both on the scenic train. It was good to see their smiling faces.

We talked about lots of things, but I shared with them a story about some old books I salvaged from an old home I purchased about thirty-five years ago. The home had been owned by an architect.

The books must have been textbooks of his or books he used in his practice. They contain vast amounts of useful information and I've kept them all these years.

For example, the one book has a huge section in it about hydrated lime, how it's made, how to mix it and most importantly WHY it makes such a great mortar for brick and stonework. CLICK HERE to read a column where I talk a little bit about hydrated lime.

I decided to go onto Amazon.com to see if these books had any value. GULP!

Click here to see the one book.

Click here to see the second book. This book shows as out of stock but another seller on Amazon has it for $500.00.

Do you have old textbooks like this around your home? If you don't want them, I'll take them! I'm serious. I'll pay to have them shipped to my home if they're ones I desire to add to my collection.

Survey or Polling Professional

Have you been trained as a professional, perhaps it's in your math or marketing background, to write unbiased survey questions?

If so, I need your IMMEDIATE help. Can you reply to this email and would you let me ask you some questions over the phone?

Work and Hiking Boot Review

How many pairs of work boots do you think I've worn over the years?

I believe my quest to locate the best pair of work boots, and ones you can use for hiking too, has ended.

CLICK HERE to read the my review.

Are You a Flight Attendant or Airline Pilot?

Are you a working flight attendant or pilot / first officer for a domestic US airline? Or currently retired?

My youngest daughter Kelly is thinking about becoming a flight attendant, and I'm wondering if you'd be willing to offer some guidance to her with respect to this career choice.

Simply reply to this email if you're not opposed to answering some of her questions. Thanks in advance.

Cold Air in Bathrooms

David emailed me wondering how in the world to stop the cold air from seeping into his bathroom via his exhaust fan.

I think you'll be interested in my answer.

What's more, you may not be aware of a product I discovered that will absolutely stop cold air from entering your home via a bath fan.

CLICK HERE to stay warm!

Judy's Peeling Tub Drain

Judy has a problem with her old cast-iron tub. She did her best to repair it, but was probably sold down the river.

CLICK HERE so you don't make the same mistake she did.

GET FREE BIDS for ANY JOB

Now that the New Year has blown by us, you may be thinking about doing jobs around your home.

I don't care if it's a new roof, new bathroom, furnace repair, concrete repair, painting, etc.

If you want FREE BIDS FAST then all you have to do is CLICK HERE. Fill out the form and magic will happen.

Built-in Bookcase Design Ideas

Harald, who lives in Norway, reached out to me about a project he was about to undertake.

I want you to CLICK HERE to see a photo that will make your eyes pop. You'll also discover one or two tips about bookcases you might not have ever thought of.

I plan to have a BIG SURVEY I'd like you to take this Sunday. I say this hoping a survey pro steps forward to help me craft the perfect questions.

Until then, I remain in your loyal service -

Tim Carter
Founder - www.AsktheBuilder.com

Do It Right, Not Over!