Framing Square Video

A simple tool like a framing square can help with laying out cuts for building a swing set or play house. The framing square is good for making sure things are cut square. But it can do much more. If you have to make a plumb cut or a seat cut, the framing square will assist you.

There are a lot of numbers on a framing square. The numbers that go from 1 to 16 on the smaller arm relate to the pitch or slope of the roof. As the roof gets steeper, the numbers get higher. To get from the framing square to the piece of wood your are cutting, work with the numbers on just one side of the square. Either the outside numbers or the inside numbers. Don't confuse them.

For example, if you want a 7/12 pitch roof, hold the 7 on the outside edge of the framing square on the piece of lumber. On the other leg of the square, align the 12 with the other side of the lumber. Mark the lumber and make your cuts. It is that simple to get the proper cuts for your roof.

Underground Wire Tunnel Video

If your project calls for running a small cable or wire under an existing patio, sidewalk or driveway, there is an easy way to do it, without laying on your stomach with a shovel. Use a piece of PVC pipe with a chisel cut. This will serve as your drill bit.

First, create a small trench perpendicular to the sidewalk to create some working room for the pipe. Once the trench has been cut, use a sledge hammer to drive the PVC pipe a few inches into the ground. Twist the pipe to break off the dirt and remove the pipe. The end will have dirt in it from under the sidewalk. Take another small diameter pipe or rod and drive the dirt out of the chiseled pipe. Continue driving it in a very inches at a time until you have reached the other side.

You now have your tunnel to run the cable or wire under the sidewalk. If you leave the PVC pipe under the sidewalk, it will serve as a nice conduit if you need to run another wire at a later date.

Tim received an email from a reader about a water line under a foundation. Read about the solution in the September 6, 2011 AsktheBuilder Newsletter.

Crown Molding Cutting Tips

Crown Molding - Traditional Cutting Methods

Cutting crown molding has driven many a person nuts! Years ago, I was one of them. In fact, I just received a wonderful note from Milton Grant in Clinton Township, Michigan. Milton wrote, "...I have tried your system of cutting the moldings in a miter box while it is sitting as it hangs on a wall. I have also used a Delta Sidekick compound saw. Results - My greatest product is sawdust, for which I have no market."

Well Milton, your days of producing vast quantities of useless sawdust are over! Once you have finished reading this article, it is my hope that you will completely understand the process!

Test Pieces

I think one quick way to success is to cut some small test pieces of crown molding so that you can see how the joints actually work. With these test pieces in hand, you can use them to check the corners you are about to work in. The test pieces tell you whether or not the corner is square. If a corner is out of square - and most are - you can see how much you need to adjust your saw cut to make the joints perfect or nearly so.

Get Some Junk Trim

Go to a lumber yard and buy the least expensive crown molding you can find. You are going to use this to experiment with.

I would get possibly two 8 or 10 foot long pieces. I would cut 16 inch long pieces until you get very good at the process. This tutorial material will really come in handy as you teach yourself how to adjust the saw angle to compensate for corners that are not 90 degrees.

Odd Angles

Okay, so you mastered cutting inside and outside corners that are 90 degrees or nearly so. Now you ask, "Tim, I have a 45 degree and a 30 degree bay window area in a room. How do I make the angles work there?" No problem! If you know the intersection angle of the walls, then you simply divide that by 2 to get the saw cut angle.

Let me prove it to you. Your 45 degree angled bay is actually just part of an octagon, or eight sided object. To install crown molding at any of these 45 degree corners you just set the miter box saw at 22.5 degrees. The cut on the molding will look similar to your other cuts, it will just not be as long. Go ahead, cut two test pieces as I have shown on the other pages of this bulletin. They will look a little odd, but I bet you they will meet very closely or perfectly up in that bay corner.


Would you like step-by-step photos and instructions that show you how I install crown molding anywhere in a home? If so, you might want my Instant Download Crown Molding eBook.

But, if you want to actually see me install crown molding in all the same places while watching an action-packed interactive DVD that was filmed in High Definition, then you may want my Crown Molding DVD.


Positioning is Critical

When you hold the crown molding upside down in the miter box saw, you must position it very carefully. If you do not hold each piece you cut the same way in the saw, the angled face will get longer and shorter and this will make for an imperfect joint. Use your scrap inexpensive crown molding trim and test this. Twist a piece ever so slightly and see what happens. You may have only rotated the trim one sixteenth of an inch in the saw but the angled cut grows by an eighth of an inch or more!

 

Click here to watch a video on cutting crown molding the easy way.

 

The Hidden Triangle

Cutting crown is bad enough, but nailing it can be even worse. If your nerves are on edge from cutting frustration you will TILT when you go to nail it if you have not installed the simple triangular piece of rough lumber in the void space behind the trim. If you are using the standard 3 and 1/4 or 3 and 5/8 crown, a 2 x 2 cut diagonally on a table saw yields two perfect pieces. I like to leave a 1/8 inch gap between the back of the molding and the block for adjustment purposes.


Remember, my Crown Molding eBook has complete step-by-step instructions with tons of color photographs that show you exactly how to cut crown molding. 100% Satisfaction Guarantee!

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Crown Molding Installation On A Sloped Ceiling

"Steeper sloped ceilings are problematic because the horizontal pieces of crown molding may not fit well against the wall or the sloped ceiling."

Crown Molding Sloped Ceiling - It's Not Easy

You may need to install crown molding on a slanted, sloped, or vaulted ceiling. I want to tell you right not it's not easy.

The slope of the ceiling can create all sorts of challenges for you.

Related Links

Cutting Crown Molding - Standard Basic Cuts

Crown Molding DVD - Tim Carter Shows You How!

Are There Different Methods?

Yes, you have multiple methods to chose from. The slope of your ceiling will determine which method works best for you.

Steeper sloped ceilings are problematic because the horizontal pieces of crown molding may not fit well against the wall or the sloped ceiling.

Free & Fast Bids

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local trim carpenters who can install your crown molding.

Is the Triangular Transition Piece Necessary?

No, it's not necessary to cut and use the complicated triangular piece. Standard 45-degree cuts can be used on a sloped ceiling.

It's best to cut a standard inside corner template as you see in the video above. Use that to determine the exact low point of where the two pieces of crown will touch in the corner on the wall.

How Do You Cut the Triangular Transition Piece of Crown?

Watch the video below to get your head around how to cut the triangular piece of crown molding. You may like the look and choose to do the job this way.

The best way to do it is to make a small transition piece of crown molding that acts like the crown is being installed on a flat ceiling on one side of the piece, but on the other edge, it is making a transition as if the crown molding is climbing a stairway making the bend that happens as you transition from the sloped ceiling along the stairs to the flat ceiling below or at a flat landing.

What About Adding Flat Stock to the Slope?

Yet another option - and it is much harder - is to make a flat area that simulates a traditional flat ceiling. This flat surface is created using regular lumber. The regular lumber can just extend out and above the crown molding or it can do that and actually return vertically to intersect the vaulted ceiling.

Either way, you better have some moderate to expert carpentry skills. These illustrations should help you visualize what you need to do to accomplish the task.

crown molding vaulted ceiling

CLICK HERE to get FREE & FAST BIDS from local trim carpenters who can install your crown molding.


Would you like step-by-step photos and instructions that show you how I install crown molding anywhere in a home?  If so, you might want my Instant Download Crown Molding eBook.

But, if you want to actually see me install crown molding in all the same places while watching an action-packed interactive DVD that was filmed in High Definition, then you may want my Crown Molding DVD.


 

Click here to watch a video on cutting crown molding the easy way.

This popular column was mentioned in the December 8, 2010 Newsletter.

Column B354

Dream Home Tips

Building the Perfect Home

I believe the old saying goes, "Every now and then even a blind pig finds an acorn." Well, this particular Builder Bulletin appears to be one of those rare acorns or as I call them grand slams. The response for this bulletin has been nearly overwhelming. I would have bet money that the response would have been just slightly above normal. Every time I go out on a limb and predict that a particular Bulletin will indeed be popular, it generates a humdrum response. I have decided to give up predicting after this bulletin!

Perfection - It Can be Costly

Some people look at perfection in two different ways. Some want perfect workmanship that is flawless. This is almost always impossible but it can be achieved. If you want perfect workmanship then communicate this from the get go and be prepared to open your wallet. The status quo, unfortunately, is that many people want great results for low cost. This is the same as mixing oil with water. It can't be done!

But some people want the perfect home with respect to function. Imagine a house that fits you like a glove. I have gotten very close on several occasions, but have yet to achieve it even with my own home.

To get perfection in this way you almost always need to build the same home twice. Once you have moved in, you will start to uncover pesky flaws. Often they are minor. Perhaps it is just a matter of inches. Maybe it is an electrical outlet that is in the wrong place. Maybe there is an outlet missing. Perhaps you had trouble moving furniture into or out of a particular room. Maybe there aren't enough hose bibs around your home or the ones that are in place are in poor locations. You get the idea.

A Little Trick

Very few people have the required discipline to do what it takes to achieve the perfect house. You need to maintain a list of the flaws in your current home. It is hard to take a moment out and write something down, but if you do it, it will pay huge dividends. Every time a pesky flaw causes you a problem write it down. When you go to buy an existing home or plan for a new one, use the list to make sure these mistakes do not happen again.

Be sure to write down even the craziest things. For example, do you like the location of the soap dish in your shower? Would you like a tall shelf in one or more corners to store shampoo and other body care products? Who says they have to be down low on the back corners of the tub? It is simple to install triangular marble shelves in tile showers!

When you travel write down things you like in hotel rooms. Do you like that coffee machine in the bathroom? Do you want coffee as soon as you jump out of the shower? It is possible. Just plan for enough counter space to comfortably place the coffee machine!

Outdoors is Important

Don't forget the outside of your home. Do you need more space for cars? Do you like to shoot hoops? If so, you need to plan for a nice level basketball area. Do you like to sit outdoors at night? What about bugs? Will your screened in porch be big enough?

Is your grill going to be in the right location? Can you cover it somehow so you can grill when it rains? Is your patio going to be in the blazing sun? Is there a way to orient it or plant a tree to provide some shade? What about screening neighbors? What about stopping outdoor noise from getting inside? There are all sorts of things you need to think about. Keep writing things down on your list!!!!! Check out my list in 50 Dream Home Design Tips column.

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Home Office

Built-In Office Desk and Shelves

Okay, we don't have a lot of space or time to chit chat so l vote that we get to work. You have looked at the store bought kit type computer desks and shelves. They simply don't interest you. If you have a few tools like a circular saw, a screw gun, a drill and a few bits, some squeeze clamps, and a small miter box you can build some very slick office platforms/desks and some incredibly strong wall shelving. What's more, it will actually look good!

The Materials

The primary material I like to use is 3/4 inch thick A/C grade fir plywood. The A means one side is clear veneer and the C means the backside has knots. If you can obtain and afford A/B plywood get it. Once the plywood is urethaned it develops a beautiful reddish brown tint. You can stain it if you like, but I prefer the natural look. The only other wood you will need are a few 2 x 2's and some thin 1/4 inch thick by 3/4 inch wide solid wood clear molding.

You will also need some hardware. Four inch long 1/4 inch lag bolts and three inch, two inch and inch and one quarter inch long drywall screws are also required.

Dimensions

The desktop or work surface needs to be a minimum of 30 inches deep to comfortably hold a computer and monitor. You can make it 32 or 34 inches deep, but never exceed 34 inches. The deeper the work surface the harder it is to access shelves above the work surface.

The top of the work surface should be 30 inches off the finished floor. This is standard desk height. This is too high for computer keyboards though. You need to make a lower platform that is 27 inches off the floor for the keyboard.

The back edge of the work surface is supported by simply screwing the 2 x 2's to the wall. Always stop the 2 x 2's at least 3 inches from the planned ends of the desk top. This allows you enough room to sneak in an end support bracket. You don't want the bracket to be flush with the end of the work surface. Whenever surfaces are flush, your craftsmanship must be perfect. Overhangs disguise small flaws in your cutting or fitting of the pieces.

Cutting

If you use a circular saw to cut the plywood, position the wood so the best side faces down to the ground. Since the saw blade rotates up through the wood when cutting, this reduces or eliminates splintering on the good side. If you have access to a table saw, then cut it good side facing the sky since those blades rotate down into the wood.

To cut long straight lines use clamps to hold a straightedge in place. All you have to do is to figure out the offset of the circular saw plate so the saw cuts where you want it to cut. Take a scrap piece of wood, draw a line on it, clamp the straightedge to the line and then make a quick cut. Remove the clamp and measure from the cut back to the line. This tells you how much to add or subtract to a measurement so you place the clamped straightedge at the correct location. Get it?

Assembly

You already know that the 2 x 2's support the back edge. The top of the 2 x 2 should be 29 and 1/4 inches off the floor so that the top finishes out at 30 inches. Cut the top and set it on the 2 x 2. Be sure to have several 29 and 1/4 inch pieces of scrap lumber that you can use to temporarily support the front edge of the top. Use 1 and 1/4 inch drywall screws to screw down through the top into the 2 x 2. You can countersink them if you like and fill them with wood putty. I prefer to leave them exposed. Once stuff is put on the work surface, they disappear beneath books, cables, etc.

End Brackets

The ends of the desk are supported by simple triangular pieces of scrap plywood. See Home Office Desk Plans for a detail of this. You attach these to the wall by screwing 2 x 2 pieces of wood to the side that will touch the wall and the side that fits under the top. You screw through this blocking into the plywood so that you see no screw heads in the end brackets. Use the 2 inch drywall screws for this. I like to space the screws about every 12 inches. These brackets then must be positioned over a wall stud or solid blocking behind the wall. The most critical attachment is the top of the bracket. Drill a hole about 2 inches down from the top of the 2 x 2 and insert the 1/4 inch lag bolt. Drive this bolt into the 2 x 2 and the wall stud and crank it down tightly with a wrench. This bolt will keep the bracket from rotating towards the floor when the work surface is loaded with weight. You can use 3 inch drywall screws to attach the lower parts of the bracket to the wall.

Finishing Tips

After the desk is built, finish exposed plywood edges with the wood molding. I glue it and nail it. Use small 3 penny finish nails or brads to hold it in place. It is critical to glue this strip. Nails alone will not work as the strip will come loose as you slide things across the desk.

If you are in a rush to finish the wood, use water based urethane. You can apply four coats in just one day!

Companion Articles:  Maximize Small Home Office Space, Home Office Desk Plans

Column B341

Home Office Shelves

Super Home Office Shelves

After you build the desk top you are definitely going to be impressed with the strength and appearance. You can build very strong wall shelves using the same materials and techniques. The key is figuring out how to suspend them. I will cover this in a moment.

Most rooms have eight foot ceilings. Standard computer monitors sit about 18 inches high. If the work surface is 30 inches off the floor this means that the absolute bottom of a wall shelf would be 48 inches off the floor. Sounds too low to me so lets go 50 inches. If you sit in a chair you will see that this is a very convenient height to reach the first shelf while sitting. You will appreciate this in the future.

Since the shelves start at 50 inches off the floor, there is limited vertical space to deal with in a standard room. Plus, you don't want the top shelf too high or else you can't reach it. Thus I have found that a 2 foot high system works perfectly. This puts the top shelf about 75 inches off the floor. Most people can stretch and reach things at this height.

The Method

The shelves I like to build are just boxes. They are 2 feet high and whatever width you want them to be. If they are wider than 5 feet and you have heavy books that will rest in the middle portions of the shelves, you will need vertical supports to stop the shelves from warping. I like to make the sides over lap the top and bottom shelves. When you do this and add the thin wood molding, you do not see any exposed plywood edges. The two foot system allows you to apply adjustable standards on the insides of the box that allows you to add at least one shelf and possibly two.

Hanging Them

I think the best way to hang the box is to use a French cleat. This is a 7 inch wide piece of 3/4 inch plywood that is ripped down the center of its length at a 45 degree angle. The cleat is as long as the shelves are wide. It fits at the inside top of the shelf system. One part is screwed to the wall and the other half is screwed to the inside of shelves. The two resulting pieces look like magnified ends of a wood chisel. Here is a diagram of one. This is a side view and the wall would be to your left and the room side of the shelves are to the right. If you could imagine the lower half of the cleat screwed to a wall by itself, see how it creates a trough? As you slide the top piece down so it touches you can see how the top could not fall down or away from the wall. Pretty clever!

These shelves are simple to do once you build the work surface. If you have any questions simply email me.

Companion Articles:  Maximize Small Home Office Space, Home Office Desk Plans, Home Office

Column B341

Home Office Desk Plans

Built-In Office Desk Plans

Office Plans Top View

 

Office Plans Side View

Desk Photos

Office desk

Here is my corner desk. I clipped the closest corner to allow easy access for a nearby doorway. Note the temporary support in the center of the photo. A two drawer horizontal file cabinet will slide under the top after the floor is complete. I will put a solid piece of wood between the file cabinet and the top to give the top solid support.

Office desk

Here is a good side view of a support bracket. Note how it stops above the floor to allow baseboard to pass beneath it. The 2 x 2's are hidden on the other side.

Office desk

Here is a close up of the recessed area for the keyboard. I used scrap plywood to create the sides of the platform. The platform is larger than the above cutout by an inch on each side and the rear. Use 1 and 1/4 inch drywall screws to screw the sides to the platform. The top side and rear of the platform have 2 x 2 blocks that allow me to screw it up into the bottom of the work surface.

Office desk

This is the underside of the top and back of the bracket. See the 2 x 2's? I could have stopped the vertical one a little sooner. It doesn't need to extend that close to the bottom of the bracket.

Companion Articles:  Maximize Small Home Office Space, Home Office Shelves, Home Office

Column B341

Tub Faucets

DEAR TIM: What can you tell me about tub faucets? I am remodeling my own bathroom, and my friend is building a new home. Are bath tub faucets all the same or are there big differences in quality? I also need to know how to install a shower faucet that will be in the same bathroom. What tips can you share that will guarantee years of leak-free performance?  Maura K, Windsor, CT

DEAR MAURA: Talk about open-ended questions. I could write for days and days about tub and shower faucets. In fact, I have seen books about the subject that don't cover each detail you might need to know about. But that said, let's roll up our sleeves and get to work so you have some great faucets that will perform perfectly for many years.

This tub faucet looks great with its polished nickel finish. Follow a few simple steps and it can last for 30 or more years. PHOTO CREDIT: Tim Carter

This tub faucet looks great with its polished nickel finish. Follow a few simple steps and it can last for 30 or more years. PHOTO CREDIT: Tim Carter

Tub faucets come in a wide variety of styles and types. Almost all modern tub and shower faucets are made without old-fashioned washers. The new faucets have cartridges that control the flow of both hot and cold water. Many of the faucets are singe handle where the inner cartridge allows for the flow of just hot or cold water or an infinite amount of either so you get warm water. Tub faucets with a separate handle for hot or cold water are still made if you want the classic look of old.

Some people confuse regular tub faucets with roman tub faucets. A roman tub faucet is one that often sits on the flat deck adjacent to a large soaking tub. Many people have standard bathtubs and the faucet and filler spout are on the wall just above the tub drain. Since this is the most common tub faucet, I suggest we focus on that type of plumbing fixture.

I have been a master plumber for many years, and one thing I have learned is that you can't spend too much money on tub faucets. These plumbing fixtures are frequently overlooked workhorses that are used daily, and often several times a day. To get years of trouble-free performance, you should buy a high-quality faucet. Quality comes with a price tag, so look for a tub faucet that is above-average in price.  You do not have to buy the most expensive faucet to get great quality.

The steps to install either a tub or shower faucet are nearly identical. The first thing you need to do is read the written instructions that come with the faucet. All too often this is not done, and afterwards when the faucet malfunctions, weekend warriors and rookie plumbers wonder why things don't work right. Once the job is complete, do not throw them away. Place the instructions and any parts list in a plastic bag that is taped to the inside of the bathroom vanity cabinet. A future plumber or homeowner will thank you, as this written information will contain valuable model and part numbers.

Make sure you know the exact centerline of the tub drain and the shower. The drain hole in tubs is not always the halfway point of the tub's overall width. You want the tub faucet centered over the drain hole of the tub.

This is what a tub and shower faucet looks like undressed. Not much to it behind the walls! PHOTO CREDIT: Tim Carter

This is what a tub and shower faucet looks like undressed. Not much to it behind the walls! PHOTO CREDIT: Tim Carter

Many tub faucets are made to accept copper pipe. The pipe size is almost always one-half inch. You need to be very careful when soldering, so that you do not apply too much heat to the faucet body. If you leave the cartridge in the faucet while soldering and you overheat the faucet body, you can cause permanent damage to the inner parts of the tub or shower faucet.

Be sure you have a small pail of water in the bathroom with some old rags. Keep a wet rag piled on the opposite side of the faucet while you are soldering. This rag will help keep the faucet body cool but still allow you to get a leaf-free solder joint where the copper pipe enters the faucet. Once the soldering is complete, wipe the joint with a clean wet rag to remove all traces of soldering flux.

Pay attention to the finished-wall thickness. Many tub faucets come with a disposable plastic plate that is supposed to be flush with the finished wall surface. If you install the faucet too close or too far away from the rough wall stud face, the tub faucet trim plate will not seal properly. This can create serious leak problems.

Try to do what the architects of old did. Install an access panel on the opposite side of the wall behind the tub or shower faucet. This was very common years ago, and access panels can still be found inside closets of many an older home. The access panel should extend one foot above the top of the faucet and all the way to the floor. It will prove invaluable if you have to replace the faucet or work on the drain trap at the base of the tub.

Be sure to remove the cartridge from the faucet to flush the water lines. Small balls of solder and other debris can clog the ports inside the cartridges. If this happens, you may end up buying a new cartridge before you take your first soothing bath or shower. It only takes a few moments to remove the cartridge. Be sure you buy a faucet that has built-in shut off controls so you can flush the lines by yourself. If you don't have shut off controls, a helper is needed to operate the main water valve while you stand in the tub with a bucket to catch the debris-filled water.

Companion Articles:  Low Water Pressure in Faucets, Low Shower Head Water Pressure

Column 669

Tim’s Deluxe Bookcase

Bookcase Cut List, Photos and Plans

Below is the completed bookcase. You can clearly see that there is room for an additional shelf if you have lots of books that are only 7 or 8 inches tall. Adding an extra shelf can be done in less than a minute. Just add the four clips and place the additional shelf where you want it.

 

The Material Cut List

The materials needed to build the bookcase are minimal. The tools are simple as well. If you know someone with a power miter box, using it will produce a much better job. The wood I like to use is Poplar. It is a very attractive hardwood that is quite affordable. It stains easily and is very strong. Here are the necessary materials and the exact sizes:

  • Top = 1 pc. 1 x 8 - 48 1/8" long
  • Sides = 2 pc. 1 x 8 - 47 1/4" long
  • Bottom = 1 pc. 1 x 8 - 46 5/8" long
  • Toe Kick = 1 pc. 3 1/4" x 46 5/8" long
  • Top Apron = 1 pc. 1 3/4" x 46 5/8" long
  • 2 or 3 Adjustable Shelves = 1 x 8 - 46" long
  • Backing = 1/4 inch luan plywood 48" wide x 47-1/2" high
  • Cap Molding = 6 linear feet
  • 1/2 pound 6d finish nails
  • 1 small box 7/8" round headed brass nails
  • Four 4' long shelf standards - cut to fit
  • 8 or 12 shelf standard clips

This photo shows the recessed toe kick that provides interesting depth and support for the bottom shelf. The front edge is back 1 inch.

This photo shows the top shelf support that is flush with the sides and top. You also see the decorative molding.

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