Extra Wall Insulation

Posted on by Tim Carter

The first day the column associated with this bulletin ran, I knew I was in for trouble. My email box was overflowing with messages both pro and con about the column. Every now and then, I decide to write about a topic that REALLY gets people's critical and judgmental juices flowing. This particular topic - extra insulation in exterior walls - is obviously one of them! There seems to be lots of people out there who think they are energy experts.

While doing research for the column I spoke with energy experts - people who study the topic and do research 40 - 60 hours a week, 50 weeks a year - at the Oregon State University Extension Service and scientists at the Building Research Council at the University of Illinois. I knew that it made sense to add insulation in exterior walls, I just didn't know where the dividing line meandered east to west across our fine nation. These people provided me with the data I needed to make that determination. Too bad I didn't follow their recommendations myself! Of course, I didn't have access to their results - the studies weren't done when I built my house. I happen to have 2x6 walls with a total R-value of 26. If you look at the total heating degree days for Cincinnati, it looks like I might have done better to keep my money in the bank!

Controversy

Many factors were considered when the scientists at the University of Illinois came up with their magic number of 5,750 heating degree days. Among them were the current and projected costs of energy. If energy costs rise faster than they predicted, then the 5,750 number is wrong. The "make sense" number would drop. If energy costs actually become less in the future, then the "make sense" number would rise! The skeptics or those who scoff at their method may use different inflation, interest, or energy cost numbers. Some critics don't even like to use the heating degree method in the first place! Anytime mathematics and big money is part of a column, watch out!

Calculating Added Costs

Let's say you want to figure how much it is going to cost to add 2x6 walls to your new home. What do you need to consider and just how do you arrive at the total cost number?

There are three elements that you have to consider when you modify the thickness of your exterior walls: added framing lumber, insulation, and window & door jamb costs. Labor costs for all of these is practically negligible. Rough carpenters have to bang a few more nails when using 2x6's but it doesn't really add much.

Column B217

Tarnish Free Brass Faucets

Posted on by Tim Carter

Changing a kitchen sink faucet might not be for you if you are claustrophobic and/or are 6 foot 5 inches tall and weigh 240 pounds or more. The space inside a kitchen sink base cabinet is often limited. Add a disposal to the brew and it can be a real challenge.

The job really isn't too hard to do but you can develop a backache or headache from strained muscles. By the time you are finished, you will feel like Harry Houdini trying to escape from a straight jacket.

One Simple Tool

If you are attempting to change out an existing faucet, you must have one necessary tool - a basin wrench. This weird looking tool has a spring loaded swivel head that allows you to loosen and tighten faucet body and faucet supply tubes in the narrow space between the sink bowl and the back of the sink base cabinet.

Forget about using traditional wrenches in this dark space! You may be lucky and find an adjustable wrench that will work, but a basin wrench will do the job in a flash. Purchase one at a plumbing supply house.

Is the Water Really Off?

Boy did I learn something important about 20 years ago! Turning off a shutoff valve under a sink doesn't always mean the water is off! In fact this just happened to me recently in our second floor hall bath. I shut off a 12 year old valve so I could change out a faucet cartridge. But when I turned on the faucet to insure the water was off, guess what? There was still a decent flow! Don't make this mistake! If you cut into a supply line or loosen a supply tube nut backed up by a faulty valve, a flood may ensue.

Is It REALLY Tarnish Proof?

Have you seen old technology brass kitchen faucets? They can really look bad in a short amount of time. A kitchen is a harsh chemical environment. Tomato juice, orange juice, vinegar, etc. can really cause problems with traditional brass.

The new tarnish free brass faucets are really great. The beauty, however, is only skin deep. But that is all the deeper it has to be. At the surface, the brass is really not brass. It is a brass alloy. The brass faucets are bombarded by special metals in a vacuum chamber. This process creates the tarnish-free alloy.

The finish will not corrode, tarnish, nor discolor. It is quite abrasion-resistant. Steel wool will not harm the finish but those kitchen Scotch-Bright pads will! So, watch how you clean the faucets.

Filtering Faucets

Water quality is a big issue in many parts of the nation. You should be concerned as water can contain all sorts of chemicals. One of the most common chemicals that is used to kill bacteria in water is chlorine. It is effective but often can leave an odor or bad taste in water.

For years you have been able to buy under sink filters, inline water supply filters, and even large add on filters at the point of use. You can now get a new kitchen faucet that has a hidden slim filter in the tubular faucet arm. This nifty filter is designed to remove chlorine taste and odor from water.

This filter will only work if you turn a discrete knob at the end of the faucet. This way you can use water that still contains chlorine to clean and rinse dishes and for other cleaning chores. When you want filtered water for drinking or cooking you simply twist the knob and filtered water flows from a tiny diversion port next to the main aerator. You can't mistake the two flows, trust me!

Who Makes It?

At the time this bulletin was published, only one company made such a faucet. It is:

  • Price Pfister
    818-896-1141

You can bet that the other faucet companies will respond to this challenge!

15 Kitchen Faucet Installation Tips

Read the Instructions

If I've typed this once, I've done it a thousand times. It is vital that you follow instructions in order and to the letter. If you don't pay attention, you can damage some parts and actually have to disassemble the faucet. For example, you might forgot to put on the spray trim nut BEFORE you attach the hose to the base of the faucet......been there / done that....

Right Tools

You often must have a basin wrench to install a kitchen sink faucet. This handy wrench is made to fit in the narrow channel between the sink and the back of the sink base cabinet. Two adjustable wrenches, a screwdriver, and a flashlight will usually be all that you need to complete the job.

Plumbing Supplies

Don't start the job without pipe dope or liquid Teflon thread sealing compound, plumber's putty, extra supply tubes - an assortment, extension tubes (known as Delta tubes here in Cincinnati), and paper towels. The Delta tubes are simply bendable tubes that have a male end and a female end. These tubes are simple compression type fittings that allow you to reach from the faucet to the shutoff valve in case your regular supply tubes are a tad short.

Faucet Spray Attachments

These devils usually have to be installed first. You need to install the holder in the sink top. Use plumber's putty under this coned shaped housing. The putty prevents water from leaking into the sink cabinet. Put the hose down the holder and bring it up into the center faucet hole of the sink. Connect the female nut of the hose to the male port on the faucet body. Use pipe dope or liquid teflon here! Failure to make this connection NOW instead of AFTER the faucet is in will save you a migraine headache.

Set the Faucet

This is really simple if you are installing a new sink. Why? Because I always mount the faucet to the sink before the sink is installed in the top! If you are changing out a faucet, you will be on your back. Most faucets come with a gasket that fits on the bottom of the faucet. Be sure you put it on right side up and facing the right direction. Also be sure the faucet is pointed towards the front of the sink! Look for the name brand on the face of the faucet base as a guide.

Supply Tube Connections to the Faucet

Using the new nuts provided by the manufacturer, attach the supply tubes to the faucet body. These are simple compression fittings. As you tighten the nuts, you will make the connection leak proof. You don't have to be Hercules to get a leak proof joint. One turn past finger tight is often plenty.

Supply Tube Connections to the Valves

This is where most leaks originate. The supply tubes must enter the valve compression port head on - not at an angle. If you are changing out a faucet, you will need to buy a new compression nut and brass ferrule. You will not be able to salvage them from the old supply tubes. If you use plastic supply tubes, they require a special plastic ferrule. Don't try to use a brass one here. I guarantee a leak!

Tighten Compression Nuts With TLC

Tighten the compression nuts on the valves slowly and with care. Make sure the supply tube is not bent as it passes the compression nut on the valve. One turn past finger tight is good enough before you turn on the water.

Remove the Aerator

Before you even think about turning on the water, remove the faucet aerator. Look for a black washer that might be stuck up in the faucet arm. If you forget this, it might be blasted out of the sink when the compressed air in the lines is released.....been there...done that.....

Failure to remove the aerator will usually cause an ugly flow of water, Disturbing old water lines or working with new copper will undoubtedly send grit, flux, etc. out of the pipes once the water is turned back on. It is really tough to clean those little filters in the aerator!

One Valve at a Time

Turn the water on one valve at a time. Turn the valve slowly. If you have to turn the water back on at a remote location, do it ONLY if a helper is at the faucet to warn you of a major malfunction in your work. 5 - 10 gallons of water could be everywhere before you can make it back to turn the water off! Check for leaks and then turn on valve number 2!

Veggie Spray Air Locks

If you have a spray attachment and no leaks, be sure to discharge water through it once you have flushed the faucet lines. The trapped air in this hose can sometimes cause sluggish water flow at the faucet.

Low Flow? Trouble is not in your Pipes

Do you have low flow once the faucet is in? This could be a result of a flow restrictor within the faucet ...... It is a water conservation measure.

Reinstall the Aerator

Once you have flushed the lines for 5 or 10 minutes, you can reinstall the aerator. If this is new construction let the hot water flow for 2 - 3 minutes to help flush out any hardened flux in the lines.

Shut Off Valve Packing Nuts

Once the water is back on, you may have a slow drip in the center of a shut off valve. This often happens because the valve packing was disturbed. You will see a nut that surrounds the valve stem. Turn it clockwise 1/8 turn or less to stop the leak.

No Leaks? Great, But Test for the Slow Ones.....

Small pin hole leaks can take hours to develop and drip. Install paper towels on the floor of the sink base cabinet to act as targets and a handy device to tell if you have a leak. Always look high for a leak. The leak may run down the supply tube and make you feel the connection at the valve is faulty when in fact the leak is where the supply tube meets the faucet. Feel with your hand to locate dampness if necessary.

Related Articles: Brass Kitchen Faucet, Brass Faucet Manufacturers

Column B216

Building Simple Staircases

Posted on by Tim Carter

I could have easily written a short book on constructing stairs. It is really complicated. I sure wish I could build yours with you side by side. Pay attention because we are going to move quickly.

The first thing I want you to do is to go look at an existing set of stairs. If they were built correctly you can put a straight board down the middle of the steps and each tread nosing (end) will just kiss the board. In other words, the tread nosings are in line.

Check out how each tread is parallel with the tread above and below. The same is true for the risers. Not only that, the intersection of any tread and any riser is a 90 degree angle. The only time this is not true is in a set of concrete or stone steps. The risers in these steps should actually be slanted so that a one inch overhang is created by the slant. See what I mean about complications?

This is The End

A common stumbling block for most beginners is how to determine the cut line for where the stairs begin and end. These lines are very simple. They are just an additional line that is parallel with the risers and treads! Look at your existing stairs and see how this is true.

Calculating Risers and Treads

Just yesterday, I received an email from a builder who is constantly stumped by doing the math for calculating risers. In a perfect world, we would love for these measurements to come out simple fractions or an even amount each time. That is not always the case.

You have to be careful about riser heights. A riser that is too small - say 4 to 5 inches will make a staircase too shallow. A riser over 7.75 inches (current CABO code maximum riser!) can make for a steep staircase. I remember, in the not too distant past, that an 8 inch riser was allowed! Check your local code as an 8 inch riser may be permitted where you live.

Let's pick a random number for the total height distance between two floors. How about 103.5 inches? How can you quickly figure out equal risers for this total rise? Simple! Since I LOVE 7.5 inch risers lets do the math. Divide 103.5 by 7.5......Bummer, the result is 13.8. That means you would have 13 risers at 7.5 inches and the final one would only be .8 of 7.5 inches. I can tell you that this is unacceptable and someone would trip.

The calculation tells us that we NEED 14 risers since we came up with 13.8. So, let's divide 103.5 by 14. the result is 7.3928. This means our risers need to be 7.3928 inches. Well, you won't find that number on a framing square! So how does .3928 inches convert to a fraction on a square? Well the decimal equivalent for 1/8th inch is .125 this means that 3/8 inch is 3 times .125 or .375. So our treads are just a tad over 7 and 3/8 inches. In reality they are actually 7 and 50/128 inches. Heck don't even try to look for 128ths on a framing square! The point is this: See how simple it was to do the math? Always shoot for 7.5 inch risers and then go whatever direction you have to go to make them work out equal keeping in mind your local code's MAXIMUM riser height.

Author's Note: If you need step-by-step color photos of the stair-building process, you should consider my Stair Building eBook. This helpful guide is the answer to all of your frustration over the stair building process. Click the link and you will be amazed at what you will discover.

Stair Building Products

Several companies make some products that will make stair building easier. You will never be able to get away from doing the layout with a framing square but you can eliminate the need for notching stringers or routing grooves for stringers as I always did.

Two companies make simple L shaped metal brackets that you nail to the sides of the stringers. The treads rest on top of these metal brackets. The brackets contain holes on each edge of the L so that you secure the treads and risers. These are very nifty products that allow you to bang together a set of steps in a flash once you have the stringers marked out and cut. the two companies are:

  • Simpson Strong Tie
    800-999-5099
  • USP Structural Connectors
    800-328-5934

Another company makes a triangular wood gizmo that you nail onto stringers. These triangles are adjustable for any tread length and riser height within codes. These create the notched look. You simply nail the treads on top of the triangle blocks.

This product is not meant for outdoor deck steps as the wood brackets are not made from treated lumber. The product comes with easy to follow instructions. Perhaps this is why the product is called EasyRiser!

Call this company for information:

  • Building Components Mfg.
    800-475-9304

The A, B, C's of Simple Stair Building

Building stairs is a fairly challenging task. It involves mathematics, precision, often difficult measuring, and patience. The concept is fairly straight forward - create treads of equal length and risers of equal height in a given space. However, it confounds many apprentice carpenters! I can only imagine how a homeowner might feel when faced with creating stairs.

The most common stair building errors include:

  • First or last riser off by 1 inch or more
  • Stair treads not level because of inaccurate total rise measurement
  • Top tread depth too shallow because of failure to observe / incorporate top floor nosing depth

90 Degree Angles

Stair building can be simplified if you just learn to trust and understand the relationship of treads / risers/ and a standard framing square. The angle where treads meet risers is simply a 90 degree angle. It just so happens that a standard framing square is permanently set at this angle. How convenient!

Look at Figure 1 for a moment. It is a drawing of a framing square that is resting on the side of a long stair stringer. The tread depth and riser height are not indicated in the drawing. That is OK, because it doesn't make a difference!. No matter what the measurements are, the angle between them (treads and risers) will be maintained at 90 degrees.

Figure 1

Figure 1

The angle that does change depending upon your situation is the angle of the staircase in relation to the floor lines. If the staircase is steep, then this angle will be greater. For example, if you were crazy and built a staircase with a 12 inch tread and riser, then the angle of the stringer to the floor would be 45 degrees. A more common angle is about 37 degrees. You can achieve this if you build a staircase with a 7.5 inch riser and a 10 inch tread.

You generally don't have to worry about the degrees of this angle? Why? Because the framing square will automatically calculate it for you. Your challenge is to do the math that permits you to create a staircase that gets you as close to the tread and riser limits as set forth in your local building code. I can't quote for you what the standard is, simply because there are different codes across the nation! Here in Cincinnati, we use the CABO One and Two Family Dwelling code. That code stipulates that the ".... maximum riser height shall be 7 and 3/4 inches and the minimum tread depth shall be 10 inches."

Making Things Work Out

To build steps, you have to calculate your total run (the sum of all of the treads) and your total rise (the sum of all of your risers). If you have existing floors you simply measure the distance from floor to floor where the staircase connects at each floor. Failure to do this will goof up your measurements if the floors are not level! You can see how important this is by looking at Figure 2.

Figure 2

Figure 2

If you are lucky and have no obstructions in front of the staircase where it hits the lower floor, you can let the staircase "run out" some even measurement. For example, choose a 10 or 11 inch tread. Imagine if you will, that the distance between the two floor levels happens to be 112.5 inches. If you choose 7.5 inch risers, this will work perfectly. You end up with 15 risers. Remember, you will always have one less tread than risers. In this case, you end up with 14 treads. So, if you choose the 11 inch tread, the nosing of the lowest tread ends 154 inches away from (14 inches X 11 inches = 154 inches) the top of the staircase opening. To measure your total rise, you need to go out this 154 inches and measure up and back to where the stairs end at the floor above.

The Layout

Look again at Figure 2. See the dashed lines that represent the treads and risers? Perhaps you have seen staircases with notched stringers like this. These notches cut away wood that reduces the weight carrying capability of the staircase. Imagine if you simply slide the dashed lines to the right so that the treads fall within the stringers? That is how we are going to build our staircase. The framing square allows us to do just that.

Look again at Figure 1. Notice how the framing square operator is drawing the second tread line. It is parallel to the first tread line. Note how the framing square rests on the stringer. See the 90 degree relationship between the riser and th tread? The vertical distance once the stringer is in place will be the actual riser height. Thus, the treads and risers are simply a series of parallel lines.

Look, once again, at Figure 1. One of the most confounding tasks is cutting the vertical plumb cut at one end of the stringer, and the flat or bottom seat cut where the stringer rests on the bottom floor. Can you see that these lines are simply a "riser line" and a "phantom" tread? The vertical plumb cut of the staircase is simply a line that is the final riser! The bottom seat cut is simply the top of a tread if your basement floor were another tread in a very long staircase. Are you starting to see that this job is not as hard as it appears at first blush?

Setting The Square on the Stringer

A typical framing square has two different sized legs. Not only are they different lengths, they are different widths. The tongue of a square is the thinner blade (usually 1.5 inches wide) and the body is the 2 inch wide part. The tongue is almost always 16 inches long while the body is 24 inches in length.

For stair construction, you orient the square so that the riser measurement will be on the tongue and the tread on the body. Look at Figure 1. See how the square is placed on the stringer? The 90 degree corner hangs out over the edge. The ruler part of a square always starts at this outside corner and the inch marks proceed each direction out towards the end of each leg. In our previous example (7.5 inch riser and 11 inch treads), you would orient the square so the 7.5 inch mark on the tongue and the 11 inch mark on the body would line up with the long edge of the stringer. ALWAYS use the markings on the same edges of the square. In other words, use the inside rulers of the square or the outside rulers of the square. NEVER mix them up. Don't use the outside ruler on the tongue and the inside ruler of the body!

Start at one end of the stringer, and align the square. If you are using the outside rulers (the method I prefer), then draw a pencil line on the outside edge of the tongue and the body. The tongue pencil marking would be your first riser or the plumb cut, where the string butts against the floor header. The body marking is the top of the first tread. Slide the square down the stringer, until the 7.5 inch marking of the outer edge ruler of the tongue is touching the end of the pencil mark that was created by the body(top of first tread). Align the square so the 11 inch mark of the body is on the edge of the stringer. You have now "stepped" the square down one more riser and tread. Note how the body of the square is parallel with the first tread line you just drew - just as the dashed lines are parallel in Figure 2! Continue making your marks for the rest of your treads & risers. You can do it!

Column B215

New Home Construction Cost Breakdown

Posted on by Tim Carter

Evidently, I have become numb to the wonder of building a home. What I mean is that it is no great shakes to me to take a vacant piece of ground, dig a hole, pour some concrete, transform stacks of lumber into a frame and then complete the job with glowing lights and a fire in the hearth. Just the thought of having the ability, knowledge, and know-how to do this really excites some people I talk to. They REALLY want to build things. Maybe I have been doing it too long......

I can say that certain aspects of the process create a fantastic feeling of self satisfaction. For example, there is no feeling (a good sneeze comes close...) quite like that of cutting and fitting complex roof rafters instead of using trusses. Some jobs require this and I LOVE to do roof framing. I also enjoy installing cast iron plumbing waste lines and black iron natural gas lines. Rough plumbing is like a 3 dimensional puzzle. It is very challenging to install piping so that it looks great, functions perfectly with no leaks, and doesn't compromise the structure one bit. I'm getting excited just writing about it! No doubt about it, construction work is fulfilling!

Be Careful Out There

The home-building process is comparable to skydiving - tremendous thrills but at a great risk. This is even true for experienced builders and skydivers. Building a home is complex. There are many things that you can't completely control. Here are just a few: the weather, production of cabinets & tops, inventory of items at the local supply houses, the schedules of sub-contractors, the quality of the vast amount of materials you are expected to install.

Stop and think of how many different trades and different parts go into a house. You or the builder needs to be familiar with each one. If a mistake is made early in the job (say an out of square foundation), it will handicap the rest of the project. What about hidden mistakes? I know of a job where a builder failed to inspect the inside of a fireplace heatilator. Hidden inside was a plastic bottle. Once the fireplace was built and a fire placed in it by the homeowner, a horrible odor was generated. Guess how much trouble that was to fix! In other words you or the builder must always be on your toes.

The Project Foundation

Houses require excellent foundations. The same is true for the entire home-building process. The foundation of the process is an excellent set of plans and written specifications. Many people think that any plan is a good one. There is something magical about blueprints. Unroll any set in front of some people and they start to dream. A bad or incomplete set of plans that has little detail allows a builder to construct an incomplete job.

Great plans leave little to speculation. They include lots of detail, there are separate pages for electrical and mechanical layouts, and there are many schedules or tables that outline what is supposed to happen where.

Specifications are a must. Written specifications are just detailed notes and explanations about various aspects of the actual drawn plans. For example, there can be a paragraph about the exact nature of the mortar used for the brick. Other notes can mention the process of finishing the hardwood flooring. Think of specifications as the written instructions you find on any installation guide as you assemble a model, toy, lawn mower, or outdoor grill. The assembly instructions come with drawings AND words. Specifications are words, lots of words!

Always make sure that the drawings and specifications have a date on them. You'll see why in a moment.

Contract Documents

If you are building a home, you need a simple, clear contract. There is little need to include lots of words about what is going to be built if you already have an excellent set of blueprints and specifications. You simply need to make sure the plans and specifications are PART of the contract. You can do this easily with a simple line in the contract like this:

"Bozo the Builder agrees to construct the house for the Smiths exactly as outlined and described in the plans and specifications dated (insert plan & spec dates here) _________. There are to be NO deviations or changes made unless authorized in writing by the Smiths."

Technically, I am not allowed to practice law. I am not an attorney. So, you need to run this clause by your attorney to make sure it fits in your state. If you are going to invest $250,000 in a house (it is really more like $650,000 when you make ALL the mortgage payments...), don't you think it is worth $250 - 500 to get a solid contract from an attorney? You BET it is! Where do you get a good contract attorney? Find an attorney in your town that specializes in contracts. How do you do that? Well, you call and ASK them what is their specialty? "Hello. Mr./Ms. Attorney, I was wondering what your specialty is. Do you do lots of divorces? Defend lots of criminals? Or do you practice tax law?" See how easy it is. Don't let the attorney start asking the questions. You want to be in control of the conversation.

Once you have found two attorneys that do contracts, ask for 2 references. That is, ask for the names and phone numbers of two clients who have had construction contracts produced within the past 6 months. What? He/she can't produce those names? Keep looking! Get another attorney! Once you find one, call the homeowners and ask if the contract appears well written. You think this is hard and too much work? Then you better turn back now.......

Building your own home whether you do it yourself or use a builder is one of the toughest jobs you will ever do. It can be lots of fun and filled with excitement IF you are prepared. If you don't get ready for the experience, it will be like going down a mountain road with no brakes..... Sub-Contractors - They Make or Break the Job

Who really does the work on the job? It is the sub-contractors. These are the soldiers in the trenches. When I was still building everyday, my subs helped me do the finest work. It took me nearly 15 years to locate the best subs in Cincinnati. When I did find them, I took care of them and they did the same to me.

You can find good subs by going to the specific supply houses where builders and subs buy materials. Remember, we DON'T always go to the home centers! That is where YOU go..... In just about every town you will find specialized supply houses that sell just to plumbers, electricians, roofers, etc. In other words, the supply houses have specialized inventory - just plumbing or roofing stuff.

Go to these businesses and see if you can't talk with the general manager or owner. Tell them what you are looking for - the names of 3 top subs. Here is what you ask: What subs have been in business for over 12 years? What subs buy your top quality products on a regular basis? Which subs pay their bills on time? Which ones routinely take advantage of your 2 percent quick-pay discount? Which ones would YOU (the owner / general manager) have work on your house? In many instances they will offer up names for you.

Construction Tips - Nip Problems in the Bud

If you want a solid house with few problems, then you are going to have to work side by side with the builder. This means that you will need to do lots of reading. Many of the aspects of construction are well documented by numerous associations. In other words, if you want to know some details about concrete, why not contact the Portland Cement Association or the American Concrete Institute? I list all of the building associations on my website. There are simply too many to list here.

You might also want to read all of my past columns and builder bulletins. If you do, I guarantee you that you will have more knowledge than 98 percent of the builders out there. You can decide to read two columns and two bulletins per night. If you do this, you can get through all of them in about 3 months....... See what I mean about time..... Read them in order of construction. In other words, don't read the hardwood flooring ones first. The flooring will be one of the LAST things installed in your house.

Major Points

Your foundation MUST be square! Your footer needs to be at least 8 inches thick with 2 number 5 bars run continuous. Spend the extra money and get vertical steel in addition to the horizontal steel in your foundation.

Don't allow the house to be built too deep into the ground! I always make sure that the top of foundation is a MINIMUM of 18 inches above the highest point of soil within 10 feet of the foundation. This allows me to leave 6 inches of foundation exposed and provide 1 foot of slope away from the house within 10 feet. You use the dirt from the hole to create this slope. If done correctly, it will appear that the house is on nearly level ground.

Use cast iron pipe for your plumbing drain pipes that carry water within the walls. You will have a quiet house!

All roof flashings must be tin or copper and be soldered! 95 percent of all roof leaks happen at flashings. Make sure yours are the best and installed properly.

Watch for my upcoming book on building a new house!

100 Plus Item Cost Breakdown List

One of the biggest nightmares with new home construction is failing to identify a cost item. I once goofed up on a bid (I was in a rush), because I was using a hand held calculator with no tape instead of my own list! The mistake cost me $8,000! Ouch!

To obtain an accurate total price, you must have two things: 1. Each major and many minor items listed 2. Accurate prices for each item - not guesses or allowances! I don't list every single nut and bolt item, however, I'll bet that you will be surprised at the detail of the list. If you have a specialized job and know of an item I could include, please contact me. I have provided extra blank spaces at the end of the list in case you need to add items.

To obtain a copy of this helpful New Home Checklist, click here to view the details.

Column B211

Manufactured Housing

Posted on by Tim Carter

Manufactured Housing

I decided to write this column about manufactured housing nearly one year ago. My research started at a Christmas party where I met the owner of the largest manufactured home dealership in Cincinnati. He really opened my eyes as to the dramatic changes and forces that were at work within the industry.

I toured several of his models just after Christmas. The quality of the traditional"single and double wides" impressed me. However, I was more impressed with the design possibilities of the modular homes. These structures are identical to just about any site built home you have ever seen. I can tell you that modular housing is going to be a major force in the housing industry as we proceed past the year 2000. You have to see it to believe it.

Production Problems

I built site built homes for nearly 15 years. I (as well as many of my past customers!) can tell you stories about frustrating delays, weather problems, magical sub-contractors who disappear without a trace, etc. All of these things cause site built housing to be an ordeal. Projects can last for months and months. In fact, the custom homes I built commonly took about 6 months to complete.

Add to this the fact that many custom home builders have little - if any - business management training. Most of us are carpenters who have risen through the ranks. This lack of training causes all sorts of problems!

Manufactured housing solves many if not all of these problems. The major manufactured home builders are huge corporations. They are run by shrewd business people who know how to schedule, negotiate great deals on materials, and manage labor forces. In other words, they get the job done! The result is that you can have a home built in ideal, climate controlled conditions in far less time than a site built home.

An Example

Here in the Cincinnati market you can be in a custom designed modular home sipping wine in less than 56 days! To put this number in perspective, it would generally take me about 30 days just to get a bid to you. Then I would have to get you into my schedule.

If you have your financing in place or a pre-qualification letter from a lending institution, you can order a modular home today here in Cincinnati. The factory can build it and deliver it in about 16 to 21 days. During that time, the local distributor is getting the permit and pouring the foundation. Once the house is delivered and set by crane, it only takes about 30 days to finish the home.

The quality will be better than any comparable priced home. There is a good chance that you will also save 10 to possibly 15 percent. These savings can be plowed into a larger home or possibly better fixtures.

Tons of Information

I could write a book about manufactured housing. There is so much to say. There are many outlets of information. Virtually every state has its own association of builders. To find out the Association in your state you have two choices. Contact a local manufactured home dealer. There is a good chance he is a member or can give you their number. If this doesn't work, start at the national level and ask them for the number of your local state association.

To get information about manufactured housing, I suggest you start with the following group:

Manufactured Housing Institute
2101 Wilson Boulevard
Suite 610
Arlington, Virginia 22201-3062
703-558-0400

www.mfghome.org

When you call or write, be sure to ask for any and all free information. They will gladly accommodate you. Ask for a list of all publications that they sell in their bookstore.

If you desire information about modular housing, then contact the following group. They will send you all sorts of stuff if you send them a check or money order for $3. Make the check out to Building Systems Councils of the NAHB. Send your request to:

Modular and Panel Homes
Building Systems Council NAHB
1201 15th Street, NW
Washington, DC 20005

www.nahb.com

Seeing is Believing

If you are getting ready to build a new home, I URGE you to visit every manufactured home dealer in your area. Ask to see all of their products or those that interest you. Be sure to ask for addresses of modular homes that are completed. Drive by those to see for yourself the possibilities of a home built in a factory. I am quite sure that you will seriously consider a manufactured home after seeing one!

 

Manufactured Housing Industry Statistics - Facts

The Big Boys

Who are the major players in the manufactured housing market? First let me say that as of August of 1997 there were 88 corporations building manufactured homes of one type or another across America. These companies had a combined total of 322 factories producing product. The number of corporations was down from a total of 98 a year before. I suspect this could have been the result of growth by acquisition - not necessarily company failures. In other words, the big companies were possibly buying up smaller companies.

During 1996 the entire manufactured housing industry constructed and shipped 363,411 homes. 89 percent of these homes were built by just 25 companies. The Top 10 companies produced 258,613 houses or 71 percent of the total. Here is a listing of the Top Ten producers for 1996:

Fleetwood Enterprises
Champion Enterprises
Oakwood Homes
Clayton Homes
Skyline Corporation
Cavalier Homes
Palm Harbor Homes
Horton Homes
Belmont Homes
Southern Energy Homes

67,313
59,650
26,212
24,676
18,791
14,529
13,394
12,006
11,103
10,939

Square Foot Costs

You can get much more space for less money. That is a fact. If you just look at the average sales price of all lengths and widths of manufactured houses for 1996, you get a square foot cost of $27.83. Modular housing will be more because of the complexity of the house and system. However, the modules will almost always cost less than site built housing. The average square foot cost for site built housing for all of America for 1996 was $58.66. That is a big difference! Statistics courtesy of Manufactured Housing Institute

Manufactured Housing Companies

The following manufacturers of manufactured housing are all member of the Manufactured Housing Institute. There are other manufacturers out there, but for one reason or another, they decided not to be part of the huge national organization. Each of the manufacturers may make different types of housing. Some may only do one type. For example, Patriot Homes was doing more full blown manufactured housing until recently. It has seen its modular division produce 85% of its gross sales in the past 18 months alone! You can see that modular housing is the wave of the future.

To find out about manufactured or modular housing in your area I want you to do several things. First, I doubt that you will ever be able to buy DIRECTLY from a manufacturer. They almost always deal with local distributors. There are many, many reasons for this. You should first call the manufacturers below that build or distributes in your state or region. If they don't have a TOLL FREE number, ask the operator as soon as you connect. Often they have TOLL FREE numbers you can use to call back. Once connected, ask if they build the type of home you want. If so, ask for literature and a list of all local distributors.

You should also open your Yellow Pages. Unfortunately, the dealers in your area will probably be found in "Mobile Homes". This probably makes them cringe, but that is the name most people associate them with. This will change in time. Call your local dealers and ask what they carry or build. Ask for sub-division locations or addresses of completed homes. Drive by and see what you think. Be SURE to tour a model. You won't believe how nice they are.

 

Regions

Region 1 Maine, Vermont, New Hampshire, Massachusetts, Connecticut, and Rhode Island

Region 2 New York, Pennsylvania, and New Jersey

Region 3 Maryland, Delaware, West Virginia, Virginia, North & South Carolina, Georgia, and Florida

Region 4 Michigan, Wisconsin, Illinois, Indiana, and Ohio

Region 5 Mississippi, Alabama, Tennessee, and Kentucky

Region 6 Minnesota, Iowa, Missouri, Kansas, Nebraska, and South and North Dakota

Region 7 Texas, Oklahoma, Arkansas, and Louisiana

Region 8 Montana, Idaho, Wyoming, Colorado, Utah, Nevada, Arizona, and New Mexico

Region 9 Washington, Alaska, Oregon, California, and Hawaii

Manufacturers

American Family Homes Regions: 4, 6 & 7
Anderson, Missouri 417-845-3311

American Homestar Regions: 4, 6 & 7
Arlington, Texas 817-695-0100

Buccaneer Homes Regions: 3, 4, 5, 6 & 7
Hamilton, Alabama 800-264-2822

Burlington Homes of Maine Regions: 1 & 2
Oxford, Maine 207-539-4406

Cavalier Homes, Inc. Regions: 1 through 7
Addison, Alabama 205-747-1575

Champion Home Builders Regions: ALL
Auburn Hills, Michigan 248-340-9090

Chief Industries Regions: 6, 7 & 8
Aurora, Nebraska 402-694-5250

Clayton Homes Regions: 4, 6 & 7
Knoxville, Tennessee 423-970-7200

Commodore Group Regions: 1 through 7
Goshen, Indiana 219-533-7100

Crestline Homes Regions: 3 & 5
Laurinburg, North Carolina 910-276-0195

Fleetwood Enterprises Regions: ALL
Riverside, California 909-351-3838

Fleming Homes Regions: 3, 4, 5 & 6
Flemingsburg, Kentucky 606-849-4119

Franklin Homes Regions: 3, 4, 5, 6 & 7
Russelville, Alabama 205-332-4510

Golden West Homes Regions: 6, 8 & 9
Santa Ana, California 800-888-1382

Guerdon Industries Regions: 5, 6, 7, 8 & 9
Lake Oswego, Oregon 503-624-6400

Heartland Homes Regions: 3 & 5
Henderson, North Carolina 919-492-1151

Hi-Tech Housing Regions: 2, 4 & 6
Bristol, Indiana 219-848-5593

Keiser Industries Regions: 1
Oxford, Maine 207-539-8883

Kit Manufacturing Regions: 7 & 9
Caldwell, Idaho 208-459-1575

Mid-America Homes Regions: 4, 5, 6 & 7
Benton, Kentucky 502-527-5006

Mobile Home Estates Regions: 1 through 7
Bryan, Ohio 419-636-4511

Moduline International Regions: 8 & 9
Lacey, Washington 206-491-1130

New Era Building Regions: 1, 2, 3, 4 & 5
Strattanville, Pennsylvania 814-764-5581

Oakwood Homes Regions: 3 through 9
Greensboro, North Carolina 910-664-2400

Patriot Homes Regions: 2 through 8
Elkhart, Indiana 219-293-6507

R-Anell Custom Homes Regions: 3 & 5
Denver, North Carolina 704-483-5511

Redman Homes Regions: ALL
Dallas, Texas 972-353-3600

Rochester Homes Regions: 4
Rochester, Indiana 219-223-4321

Schult Homes Regions: ALL
Middlebury, Indiana 219-825-5881

Skyline Corporation Regions: ALL
Elkhart, Indiana 219-294-6521

Sphere Industries Regions: 3
Hallandale, Florida 305-456-2200

Victorian Homes Regions: 2, 4, 5 & 6
Middlebury, Indiana 219-825-5841

Virginia Homes Regions: 1, 2 & 3
Boydton, Virginia 804-738-6107

Wick Building Systems Regions: 4, 6 & 8
Mazomanie, Wisconsin 608-795-4281

Column B206

Certificate Of Insurance

Posted on by Tim Carter

Insurance Certificates

There is a possibility that there are millions of dollars wasted each year by people who attempt to use the justice system to extract money from contractors who have performed poor work. I realize that in some instances the contractor is so malicious that a court room appearance is necessary. I happen to know several contractors who are so slippery that I still can't see how they manage to stay in business and out of jail! I think the fact that Cincinnati is such a big town helps them.

Insurance Proof is Easy

I was a practicing contractor for over 20 years. Never once in my career did a homeowner ask me to produce proof that I did - in fact - have Workman's Compensation insurance. It took me 12 years in the business to find out that I could even obtain a Certificate of Insurance from my agent! My agent didn't bother to tell me about these wonderful documents. I wonder how many jobs I might have sold had I produced it along with my bid! I can see now that it would have been an excellent selling tool. There is no substitute for being up front and forthcoming with information.

Some states allow independent insurance companies to write Workman's Compensation policies. Other states offer their own government run programs. In either case, the company that has coverage gets a dated certificate from the insurer. In Ohio, the coverage extends into the future for 6 month periods of time. Thus, I can prove to a customer that I have coverage at the time the job begins and often for months into the future.

Any contractor who has such a certificate can easily make copies for you. If you get an excuse rather than an authentic copy, run away from that contractor.

Extended Warranties

Have you purchased an electronic device or an appliance lately from one of those big box stores? Often you are asked if you want to purchase an extended warranty on the item. These warranties offer different types of protection beyond the normal manufacturer's warranty. All they really are are insurance policies. Nothing more, nothing less.

You can get the same things for new houses and in many instances existing houses. As you might expect, these warranties offer different types of coverage. Some of the warranties are very limited in the coverage they offer. You have to really read the entire policy to see if you feel the coverage is worth the purchase price.

These polices can be life savers if you have a severe problem after the regular warranty expires. They are helpful because they possibly will cover the defect that causes all sorts of other problems. Remember, the Contractors General Liability policy will rarely, if ever, cover the cost to repair the original defect.

Two Warranty Companies

Here are two extended warranty companies. The one company, Residential Warranty Corporation, has a rigorous program they use to qualify contractors. In other words, there are only certain contractors who meet their standards. My guess is that the other one does the same thing.

I urge you to call these two companies and see what they have to offer. Be sure to read the entire fine print of the exact policy / warranty. Don't just go off the pamphlets or brochures. Often the policy has much more definitive language.

  • Residential Warranty Corporation
    5300 Derry Street
    Harrisburg, Pennsylvania 17111
    800-247-1812
  • Home Buyers Warranty
    800-488-8844

Show Me the Certificate

I know you have heard this before from countless articles. But it is true. Take the time and ask for AND get the copies of all insurance documentation. It will help you eliminate the Loser contractors. Losers often do not carry insurance.

Insurance is necessary. You need it to cover problems. The professionals will readily offer you a copy. A true professional gives it without you asking!

 

Finding the Professional Contractor

It is a real jungle out there and it is getting worse. All of the trade publications and contractors I know personally complain of a huge skilled labor shortage. This means you - the consumer - are at a great risk of getting poor quality work for every dollar you spend. Here are some tips that will help you spot the professional. The bottom line for ultimate protection is product knowledge. This means that YOU must take the responsibility to get educated on the proper materials to use and the methods used to install something. With the Internet, this has never before been easier. If you know how something is supposed to be installed - even just the basics - you will quickly spot a cad who is a lost ball in the high weeds. Try the following tips:

Experience - There is NO substitute for experience. However, it is by NO means a guarantee of quality work. Why? - because I know concrete contractors with 20 years experience who still install it wrong! However, time tends to weed out the weak and financially unstable contractors. Basically it is Darwin's law of Natural Selection at work within the marketplace. Watch out for the 24 year old contractor. Look for a person with 15 years under his or her belt.

Licensed Contractors - Many states require a contractor to have a license. This is a good start. If your state requires this, then hiring a licensed contractor is your first, basic requirement. Remember that the license doesn't equate to quality - it merely means that the contractor has at least gotten to first base with respect to meeting many of the requirements it takes to be a professional.

Pay in Cash for a Discount! - If your contractor offers you this option, watch out! Cash payments are often schemes to avoid paying taxes. A professional will never ask for cash. If you want to get a "rebate", consider calling the IRS to report contractors who make a regular practice of asking for cash.

Detailed Estimates - Clearly written detailed estimates for work are usually a sign of a pro. Their clear proposals offer two way protection. You know exactly what you are getting. Watch out for those standardized one -page forms!

Start / Stop Dates - Does your contractor offer realistic start and stop dates? If so, this is a good sign. A real professional will produce a simple schedule telling you when certain things will happen. Those contractors who can't do this are impostors!

Questions and Answers - Do you get clear answers to your questions? Do they make sense? Does the contractor get defensive if you ask many questions? Use common sense here. You can't ask too many questions. Don't ASSUME ANYTHING!

Advance Payments - Professionals do NOT ask for giant, up-front deposits. They have enough financial strength to carry a job between periodic payments from you. The only time a deposit is necessary is when your job requires custom - special ordered goods at the beginning of the project.

High Pressure "Tonight Only" Offers - Need I say more....... These are schemes to trick you. Why would the contractor make such a ridiculous claim? ? ? ?

Insurance Documentation - Because we live in a society that has an abundant supply of attorneys who need to buy food and pay for cell phones, we ALL need insurance. You need to make sure that a falling ladder will not harm a neighbor's child. You need to make sure that you are protected when that injured worker laying on his couch one afternoon calls one of those accident attorneys.

Knowledge - It is the Root of Power - Contractors who possess product knowledge are very visible. You immediately sense their ability to perform well. You can trust them. On the other hand, if you possess knowledge, you can readily spot those who don't have it. I urge you to read about how and why things work in building and remodeling. Read a product brochure. Ask questions. You will see quickly who is up-to-date.

 

Certificate of Insurance

A blank certificate of insurance form can be downloaded from Acord Forms website at http://www.formsboss.com/index.html. There is a place on the form for the Insurance company's name and the person/company who is insured. Be sure to ALWAYS call the listed insurance company to make sure the policy is in force and paid.

Column B204

Sump Pumps – Backup Pumps

Posted on by Tim Carter

Basements are common in many parts of the United States. These "inground" empty swimming pools have a tendency to fill up in periods of wet weather. If the ground around your house slopes away quite nicely, you can often control this seepage with a linear French drain setup. I have written about these in two past bulletins. However, many houses sit on level or nearly level ground. The only hope of draining water around these foundations is with a sump pump.

The Sump in Pump

A sump is simply a pit or recessed area that collects a fluid. The fluid is then pumped from the pit. If there was gravity flow away from the area, there would be no need for the sump! Years ago in many of the older houses in Cincinnati, basement drainage water was directed into the public sewer system. You didn't need sumps. However, the engineers soon figured out that this water was overloading the sanitary sewer system. New laws were enacted that outlawed the introduction of storm water or sump water into sewage systems across the nation. You simply have to collect this water from the inside of your house (or outside with a linear French drain) and redistribute the water to the surface downslope from your house.

As you might imagine, these laws and the ease of building on level land has created a huge need for sump pumps.

Sumps and Sewage

Probably one of the biggest beefs that manufacturers of sump pumps has is their misuse. Some people buy a sump pump and try to use it as a sewage ejection pump. This is a big mistake!

Regular sump pumps are designed to handle liquids and some solid particles. Usually the largest object that can make it through a sump pump impeller is a 1/2 inch diameter sphere.

Sewage ejection pumps will handle much larger objects. Often they can pass a 1.5 inch or larger object. Don't make the mistake and place a sump pump in a sewage ejection pit!

Common Problems

Sump pumps fail for several primary reasons. Often the sump pit is too small. It is not uncommon for an uneducated homeowner to create a sump with a 5 gallon bucket. This is too small. The float rod that controls the pump can rub against the side of the bucket. Make sure you install your sump pump in a pit that is 18 inches in diameter and 22 inches deep.

Pumps can also fail to operate because of check valve problems. Sometimes a homeowner will fail to install a check valve. This simple device is just a one way valve. It only allows water to travel out of the sump. You install a check valve just above the top of the sump. This minimizes the amount of water that flows backwards into the sump after it pumps. Without a check valve all of the water in the vertical discharge pipe flows backwards into the sump. This can cause the sump to fill up again and you just make the pump work too much for nothing.

The power supply to a sump pump should be a dedicated outlet. This means the sump has its own circuit breaker. You don't want the pump to trip the breaker if the toaster or microwave or TV is drawing current at the same time! The outlet should also be a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter as well. The presence of an electrical pump that close to water is simply asking for trouble.

Never use an extension cord with a sump pump. Install the dedicated outlet directly above the sump pump if at all possible. If you ever work on the pump or decide to clean the sump pit, ALWAYS disconnect the cord from the outlet.

Checking the Pump

If you rely on your pump to keep your basement dry, you had better clean the pump every 3 - 4 months. This is especially true if your pump discharges water from a washing machine. Lint from your clothes can clog the intake filter on a sump pump very quickly.

If debris can somehow enter the sump pit, you need to install a screen to keep the largest pieces from interfering with the sump pump. Remember, the pump will fail to operate when you most need it! They rarely fail to operate during dry weather.......

Pump Power

If I were buying a pump today, I would purchase as much power as possible. More power means faster pumping and pumping capabilities to greater heights. A fierce storm may create a deluge in your basement one night. You may need that extra $20 worth of pump. Don't try to save money when buying a sump pump, check valve and sump basin. These items are critical defense weapons you need in your battle against Mother Nature. Remember, Mother Nature always bats last...........

Sump Pump Discharge Piping Tips

Pumping Basics

When a specific sump pump is built, there is a maximum amount of work it can do. After all, pumping or lifting water is work. Lifting water against the force of gravity causes a pump to work harder. The higher the discharge point is above the pump, the less water it will pump in a given time.

Furthermore, if you install lots of turns and bends in the pipe, these fittings create additional friction. To maximize the amount of water discharged by a pump, you need to limit the amount of fittings in the discharge pipe AND minimize the height between the pump and the discharge point.

The size of the discharge pipe should never be less than the discharge outlet port on the pump. Many standard residential pumps have a 1.5 inch discharge port. Standard 1.5 inch inner diameter PVC pipe can be used to pipe the water out of the sump.

The Discharge Water

A common mistake made by builders and homeowners alike is to simply expel sump water alongside the exterior of the foundation. I have seen this done hundreds if not thousands of times. This water simply enters the soil, travels down the side of the foundation and re-enters the sump!

Sump discharge water needs to be piped far away from your house. I always install a solid 4 inch sloped drain pipe for this purpose. The pipe does not have to be deeply buried. Direct this pipe to a low spot in your lot beyond the boundaries of your foundation.

If you live in a cold climate, you will want to install a wye fitting in this discharge pipe at or near the house. This wye fitting will allow you access to the drain pipe to clean it out AND to pour a warm salt brine in the pipe should it freeze up during the winter months. It is not uncommon for the end of the pipe to get clogged with ice as the sump water drains from the end. A strong salt brine poured into the wye will melt the ice. NEVER pour this brine into the sump! Salt water can accelerate pump corrosion!

Backup Sump Pumps

I can't tell you how many times basements have flooded when a power outage results from a severe rain storm. However, I can tell you that it is very frustrating and expensive. If you have a finished basement or valuables you wish to protect, then you might be very interested to know that two primary backups sump pumps are available.

The first backup sump pump can be installed anywhere. It derives its power from a standard 12 volt high output car or marine battery. Many of the pump manufacturers listed here make a battery backup model.

Some of the battery backup pumps come with lights and alarms that will tell you the status of the power supply. For example, the Zoeller model will produce a continuous steady beep if the battery is low. If the battery has a partial charge, it will produce a chirp similar to that of a smoke detector with a low battery. Depending upon the size battery and the height of the pump to the discharge point, some models can pump up to 8 or more hours.

If you are fortunate to have a reliable municipal water supply with moderate (50 PSI) to high (80 PSI) pressure, you can purchase a backup sump pump that operates on water pressure alone! The only pump manufacturer that had this model was Zoeller. This little pump can quite possibly get you through an emergency until such time as the power is turned back on.

These backup pumps are not as powerful as a standard sump pump that operates on 115 volts of standard house current. For example, a standard 115 volt 1/3 horsepower pump can almost always discharge about 34 gallons of water per minute assuming the discharge point is 10 feet above the pump.

Depending upon the model you look at, a battery backup model will pump up to 21.6 gallons per minute with a 10 foot discharge height. The water powered pumps are the weakest. If you have 60 PSI of water pressure at your house, you can get the water powered pump to discharge only 6.35 gallons of water per minute.

Remember that the backup pumps are just that - a backup. Do not use one as a primary pump. The intent of the pump is to get you through the emergency. If you get a backup pump, read and follow the installation instructions carefully!

To discover some of the manufacturers I found, just CLICK HERE.

Column B195

Air Conditioning Sizing Tips

Posted on by Tim Carter

Air Conditioning for Old Houses

How in the world did people survive 60 years ago without air conditioning? I have worked in older brick buildings in the inner city of Cincinnati during the summertime. They can be stifling. My guess is that the people back then didn't know any better. Since there was no alternative, they simply sweated and took it easy.

Business productivity had to suffer. Air conditioning has to be one of the most innovative and useful inventions of the 20th century.

The Most Complex Aspect

Heating and air conditioning is by far the most complex aspect of building and remodeling. It involves physics, fluid mechanics, electricity and much more. A technician must have thousands of dollars of specialized testing and monitoring equipment. The equipment is constantly changing and improving. Plumbing and electrical work pale in comparison.

Few homeowners are prepared or able to make even the most simple diagnosis when a air conditioning problem strikes. The equipment is simply too technical. I myself am challenged when it comes to air conditioning troubleshooting and repair. I'm so glad that my best friend, Richard Anderson owner of Sergeant's HVAC, is a top notch heating and air conditioning service technician!

Environmental Control

Did you ever stop to think that your heating and air conditioning equipment and ductwork are probably the second most important component of your house? The first and most important is the roof - it keeps you and your possessions dry.

Your air conditioner keeps your environment ("house") comfortable and at a stable temperature - that is if it was designed and installed correctly. All too often builders and homeowners try to save money when selecting a heating/air conditioning contractor or air conditioning equipment.

This is a HUGE mistake. I have been in new houses where the room to room temperature can vary by 8 - 12 degrees! Air whistles from the ductwork or doesn't come out at all.

Your comfort level is directly related to the ability of the person you choose to install and service your air conditioning equipment. Low prices often mean low service and ability.

All Things Must Be Right

Air conditioning is so complex that all aspects of the system must be designed and installed right for you to be comfortable. This means that the condensing unit, the air handler and fan, the interior coil, the ductwork and the refrigerant must be right.

Imagine if all of the components are perfect except for the ductwork. If you have a two story house and the second floor is hotter than the first floor, something is wrong! Don't let a technician tell you this is normal. My two story house has the same temperature (+/- 2 degrees) in each room day or night.

This didn't happen by mistake. My friend Richard made sure that the supply duct to each room delivers enough cool air to handle the heat gain. He also installed a return air duct that vacuums the hot air from the ceilings. Do you have this design in your house?

Maintain Your Equipment

Air conditioning often performs poorly because of homeowner neglect. You hear it all the time about changing / cleaning air filters. The reason for this is simple. Air filters protect your equipment. They stop the buildup of dirt on the interior coil and the fan blades that move air throughout your house. If dirt builds up on the interior coil or the fan blades the coolness on the coil can't be delivered to the hot air that passes over the coil. It is that simple.

If you have the old technology fiberglass filters, you may want to consider newer polyester rinsable filters. I have these type in my system. I love them. You can readily see the dirt within the filters. They rinse easily. Many air conditioning contractors sell these or they are available where air conditioning equipment is sold.

Annual or bi-annual checkups may not be a bad idea. The service technician can check to make sure your refrigerant level is perfect. He can look for loose electrical connections. Fan speeds can be tested and adjusted. The drain line from the interior coil can be checked for cleanliness. Fans and motors that require lubrication can be oiled.

All of these things can prolong the life of your air conditioning equipment. Remember, air conditioning equipment breaks down when you most need it. You may have to wait for days for a repair person to help you. All of this can often be prevented with regular checkups BEFORE the cooling season arrives.

Do you cover your outdoor unit in the winter months? This may be a bad idea. Check with the manufacturer before continuing this practice. A cover may trap condensation. Just a quick tip........

 

Checklist for Locating Air-Conditioning Problems

What happens if one day your air conditioner just doesn't cool well or doesn't work at all? It worked fine last season or last week but all of a sudden acts up. The problem may be complex or it may be simple. There are some things you should check before you call the repair company. The simple fix items may save you a $100 service call. Some things you can't check easily. These have to be performed by a professional. I hope your air conditioning problem turns out to be something minor. If it doesn't and it is time to purchase a new outdoor unit, be sure to consider two things: Try to buy a unit with the highest SEER rating. This is a measurement of efficiency. The higher the SEER #, the more cooling you will get for your electricity dollar. Also make sure that the interior coil is matched to the outside unit! Don't underestimate the importance of this fact. Without proper matching you may loose your warranty AND the outdoor unit will NOT operate at the SEER rating as advertised! You must ask questions....!

Air Conditioning Operates - But Little Cool Air

  • Check Furnace or Air Handler filters. Clogged or dirty filters slow air flow past the interior coil.
  • Check tension of belt on Furnace or Air Handler Fan if belt driven. A loose fan belt slips. This causes insufficient air to pass by the interior coil.
  • Look for a water puddle below furnace or air handler. Water may be a sign that the interior coil has frozen. If ice forms on the interior coil, the air passing by the coil just doesn't get cold enough. Ice formation can usually be traced to dirty filters.
  • Check interior coil for dirt buildup. This is only possible by removing the inspection panel on the ductwork that surrounds the interior coil. This is not always easy. A dirty coil is only a problem if your filters have not been changed regularly.
  • Outdoor condensing unit maybe low on refrigerant. This can only be checked by a professional.
  • Check interior registers. These may be blocked by boxes or furniture or are closed/restricted.

System Will Not Function - No Cool Air

  • Check all circuit breakers. Look at main electric panel and outdoor disconnect switch at condensing unit. Turn to off position then back on.
  • Check thermostat switch / setting. The switch to cool position mat not be engaged. Thermostat may need adjustment. Turn switch off then on again.
  • Startup capacitor may not be functioning properly or worn out. Can only be checked/serviced by a professional.
  • Check furnace on/off switch. It may have been turned off inadvertently. This will shut off the power to the furnace/air handler fan.
  • Check Compressor Auto Shut Off. Compressor may be failing. Can only be checked/serviced by a professional.

 

Air Conditioning Sizing Tips

Quite possibly the biggest reason for air conditioning discomfort is that the equipment is simply too small. Imagine using a lawn mower engine to power a freight train. It just simply can't do the job. Air conditioning condensing units (that big mechanical 'thing' outside your house) are sized like shoes. They are measured in tons. A ton is a unit of measure. One ton equals the amount of BTUs (12,000 BTUs) it takes to melt one ton of ice in a 24 hour period. You will often here your air conditioning person tell you that you need "...a 3.5 ton unit.." or something like that. Well, how in the world did they know that?

Heat Gain

The only way air conditioning equipment can be sized PROPERLY is to perform a heat gain calculation. 20 years ago I used to have to do these by hand. It could take hours. Air conditioning companies now have nifty computers to do it quickly. You need to feed the computer data. It wants to know how large your house is - that is, how much wall area is exposed to the outside temperatures. It wants to know how large and what type of windows/doors you have, the amount of wall and attic insulation, which direction your house faces, how many people live in the house, etc. Once all of this data is fed into the computer, it will tell you the heat gain in BTUs for your house. This is exactly how to do it. There is NO OTHER WAY. Don't let the person tell you that your neighbor's house across the street is the same design and square footage and as such requires the same AC unit. That is not necessarily true! The reason lies in the fact that the house orientation is different. They may have more glass surface facing west!

Interior Coils and Fan Speed

The big machine outside that makes noise compresses the Freon or other refrigerant into a liquid. The liquid is pumped or suctioned into your house. There it passes through a coil inside of your furnace or air handling unit. Within this coil the refrigerant evaporates into a gas. This makes the interior coil very cold. The air passing over the coil creates air conditioning! We need this component to be sized correctly as well. If the interior coil is not matched to the outside unit, it will not evaporate all of the refrigerant. It will not produce enough "cooling effect". The fan that forces air through the ducts must be sized right too. If it is not large enough or does not spin fast enough then not enough air will get cold to combat the heat gain your house is experiencing.

Ask Questions

If you are building a new house or installing new air conditioning, you must ask all of these questions. Make the air conditioning technician prove to you that they have all of the components sized correctly. The simple fact that you are asking the right questions will frighten the non-professional. Look for numbers on the nameplate of the outdoor unit. It will often have a number like 42,000 or some multiple of 6,000 in it. These refer to BTUs. If you have a 3.5 ton unit, then you better see the number 42,000 somewhere! Some manufacturers may drop the three zeros, look for that as well - you may just see the number 42.

 

Air Conditioning Systems for Old Houses - Ones Without Ducts

Do you own an old house - one with hot water heat? Installing large traditional sheet metal ducts may be impossible. Two companies in the USA make very nifty systems to overcome this hurdle. The systems use high velocity air that passes through smaller flexible ducts. The main trunk line (it's flexible too!) is often 9 inches in diameter or less! the individual branch lines that feed into the rooms are only 2 inches in diameter. Small holes are cut into the ceilings to accommodate the piping. Special liners and orifices are used that reduce and eliminate air noise. The principles of cooling the air are the same as with traditional units. It is just the delivery of the cool air that differs. These companies have been in business for years. The techniques and equipment are time tested and reliable. Often the installers in each city have undergone rigorous training. Make sure you ask about this when you call for information and installers in your city. I would absolutely call both companies and ask for information.

  • SpacePak
    260 North Elm Street
    Westfield, Massachusetts 01085
    800-465-8558
  • Unico, Inc.
    7401 Alabama Ave.
    St. Louis, Missouri 63111-9906
    800-527-0896

Column B182

Drywall Finishing Video

Posted on by Tim Carter

Drywall Finishing Video

Going from a taped seam to a perfectly smooth wall is not that hard. You have to have the right tools A 10 inch broad knife with rounded edges is a must. Be sure the edged are rounded so they don't dig into the drywall. Apply a heavy second coat of drywall joint compound over the seams. The edges of the drywall mud should be thinner than the center. Leave a hump in the middle of the compound.

When the joint compound is dry, take a sanding pole and knock down that high spot in the middle. Then apply a third thin coat of joint compound. When dry, sand it down and you will have a smooth joint.

Follow these steps for a professional looking finish on your drywall projects.

Central Vacuum Video

Posted on by Tim Carter

Why lug around a heavy vacuum when central vacuum systems can do the work for you? Central vacs have the motor and filter located in a remote part of the house. There are outlets available where you just plug in the hose. There are vacuum hoses or pipes located inside the walls that carry the dust and dirt to the filtering system.

Worried about clogging the system? Don't. The piping inside the wall is a larger diameter than the vacuum head. So a clog can not happen inside the walls.

Place the filter canister in the basement or garage. This keeps the dirt out of the house. Just empty the canister into the garbage can. If you place the motor in the garage, this keeps all the noise out of the house.

Central vacuum systems can be installed in an existing home in as little as a day. Check your local yellow pages for a vacuum equipment and systems company.

Central vacs last a long time; they are affordable and you will love the ease of cleaning your carpets.