Kitchen Remodeling Video

Posted on by Tim Carter

Remodeling an old kitchen can be fun if you use some creativity. Older kitchens were designed with the sink in front of the window, small countertops and few cabinets. But during your kitchen remodeling project, think modern. Move the sink to the corner, turn that small counter into a bar top.

After six months and a lot of sweat equity, the kitchen looks great. The room footprint was not changed, but the room looks bigger. The walls have been lightened up, light fixtures added, the cabinets are lighter and even the floor has been brightened up. In addition, by opening a wall or doorway to another room will help increase the apparent size of the kitchen.

This kitchen project added four layers of lighting. Indirect ceiling lights, recessed can lights, decorative hanging light fixtures over the bar and a ceiling fan with spotlights.

The kitchen sink has been moved to the corner and features a double bowl set 90 degrees to each other. Now the sink is in a position that it can be used and you can still face other people in the room.

All this makes a larger, more useable and friendly kitchen.

How to Repair a Downspout Video

Posted on by Tim Carter

Does your aluminum gutter or downspout leak? Or do you need to remove them temporarily while painting your house? All you need is a drill with a 1/8 inch drill bit. Most of these aluminum downspouts are held together with a pop rivet. Center the drill bit in the hole in the pop rivet and drill it out. Once the pop rivet has been removed, the downspout can be disassembled.

When it is time to reinstall it, you will need a pop rivet gun and some aluminum rivets. Get the colored pop rivets that match your work and they will blend right in. The holes are already drilled in the downspout and the house. This makes putting them back up very easy.

This video was featured as the Tip of the Week in the May 28, 2014 AsktheBuilder Newsletter.

Mixing Concrete Video

Posted on by Tim Carter

Doing concrete work or masonry work can be hard work. Mixing the concrete is very hard when done by hand. By the time you mixed it, you are too tired to do the work properly. There is an easier way.

A new tool is available that looks like a small rotary tiller and a plastic tub. However, this one is designed for mixing your concrete. This gas powered tiller can make easy work of the mixing chore. Just pour in the concrete mix in the tub, add water and start up the mixer. Place it in the tub and start mixing.

These new power tools do the work and saves your back. You will be ready to work with the concrete, mortar or sand mix.

Garden Arbor Video

Posted on by Tim Carter

You have a photograph of the garden arbor but not plans. Check the article to see if they provide any overall dimensions. If you have those, start working backwards. Gather the materials required. For best results outdoors, use redwood because it is naturally rot resistant. If all the pieces are painted before assembly, they will last even longer.

If your project has curved cuts in it, check the house for cans or bowls with a similar size curve. Use this as a template for drawing your curves. If the desired curve is larger than any household item, get a thin, flexible piece of wood. It can be bent in match your curve.

Cut the rest of the material and check them for fit. Paint all the pieces before assembly. Start putting your garden trellis together and add pieces as required.

With just a few dimensions or measurements, you can create a wonderful garden arbor from a photograph or drawing.

Antique Door Hardware Video

Posted on by Tim Carter
antique door hardware egg and dart

Antique Door Hardware - This antique egg and dart hardware is featured in the video below. It comes in all sorts of FINISHES, including bright brass. CLICK or TAP HERE or the photo to purchase it.

Antique Door Hardware - It's Stunning

If you want to have that antique look in your home, you don't have to distress your own hardware. You can purchase solid brass locksets that take your doors back a hundred years in looks. Backplates, doorknobs, including the old crystal ones, and even skeleton keys are available. The best thing is they fit in the existing holes in your doors.

CLICK or TAP HERE to see the exact antique door hardware I used in my home.

Just remove your existing hardware. Slide in the new hardware and you are ready to go. To complete the look, be sure to change your door hinges to match. There are special decorative tips available for the hinge pin.

Add the skeleton key and deadbolt locks and you will have that new antique door hardware that looks old.

How to Paint a Door Video

Posted on by Tim Carter

If you need to paint a new wood door or an existing interior door, and want long lasting, professional results, remove all door hardware first. The time spent trying to mask off all the hardware will be longer than simply removing it. Plus, you won't get paint on the door knob or plates.

Remove the door knobs and back plates first. Remove the lock set and don't forget the hinges. To help with the hinge removal, open the door slightly and place a shim under the corner to support the door. Then unscrew the hinges, starting with the bottom and working your way up. Once the hinges have been removed, you can take the door down and lay it on the latch edge. This will allow access to the top, bottom and hinge edges. It is important to paint these edges so moisture does not get into the wooden door and cause it to warp or twist.

Once all the hardware is off, paint the door getting all the sides and edges. The removal of the hardware will help with that professional looking finish.

This video was featured in the May 23, 2014 Weekend Warrior Tips. Tim asked for a YES or NO.

Sanding Molding Video

Posted on by Tim Carter

How do you sand a curved piece of wood? Use glass! No, not a drinking glass. There is a new sanding block made out of recycled glass. Up to 98% is recycled material.

These sanding blocks will conform to the surface you are sanding. So you can effective sand a curved details door molding or crown molding. As you sand, some of the block is worn away and the resulting surface with match your molding. The sanding blocks are available in various grits, type and sizes to match your sanding requirements. There is even one designed for rust removal from metal.

The glass sanding blocks will conform better than regular sandpaper. These sanding blocks are great for those odd shaped or curved objects.

Rust Repair Video

Posted on by Tim Carter

Did you leave those metal tools or objects outside all winter? A little rusty now? To get these items ready for painting, you have to remove the rust and have the right tools.

Scrap any loose paint off with a thin, flexible, metal putty knife. Then sand the rusty area with a wire brush or sanding block.

Next, you will need a good rust inhibitive primer. Some of these primers can be used over slightly rusted metal, so you don't have to remove all the rust. The primer labels with have instructions as to how much rust it will cover and any other preparation that is required. A primer with zinc or chromate is a better choice. Use an industrial type primer if the others can't be found.

Following the directions for the primer is critical in getting the desired results.

Stainless Steel Sink Care

Posted on by Tim Carter
stainless steel sink

Stainless Steel Sink Care | This is my own undermount sink at my own home. My wife loved this countertop and sink. We sold the house and moved to New Hampshire. © 2017 Tim Carter

Stainless Steel Sink Care

Can you imagine how amazed Harry Brearley must have been the day he noticed that his scrap steel samples were not rusting? You see, back in 1913, he was working for the British Steel Corporation trying to develop hard steel for gun barrels. He had been experimenting by adding varying amounts of chromium to ordinary steel. Evidently it didn't take long to notice that the material had incredible corrosion resistance. Stainless steel was further enhanced by adding nickel as well.

How Many Types of Stainless Steel are There?

Stainless steel is by no means a simple compound. There are over 60 different types that are readily known and formulated! All have varying amounts of different chemical elements in them to impart different characteristics. However, chromium and nickel are by far the most important elements which give stainless steel its excellent reputation. Certain types of stainless steel may also contain smaller amounts of copper, aluminum, silicon, and molybdenum. These elements all produce different characteristics when mixed in varying amounts. However, for common household everyday use, stainless steel contains 18 percent or more chromium in content and approximately 9 percent nickel does quite well.

Is Stainless Steel The Ultimate Sink?

I don't know if there is a perfect sink for kitchen or bath purposes. All seem to have positive and negative qualities. Take my house for example. We happen to have a cast iron sink with a bright yellow porcelain finish. The sink is no doubt colorful. However, the porcelain finish is susceptible to chipping and scratches. Solid surface sinks can be chipped and harmed by hot objects. Stainless steel is virtually carefree, but yet it can be dented, scratched and harmed by certain chemicals. However, stainless steel is affordable, and probably the easiest of all choices to maintain.

Does the Metal Thickness Vary?

Stainless steel sinks are by no means all created equal. Some use steel which is nearly twice as thick as others. Of course, the thicker sink will cost more money. However, it may prove to be a better investment over the long run. Thicker sinks will resist denting. They also will flex less than their thinner counterparts. Thickness is measured by gauge. Residential sinks will range from 18 gauge (.047 - .052 inch) to 23 gauge (.027 - .029 inch).

Can You Make Stainless Sinks Quiet?

Some people object to the metallic sound which is produced when working with or in a stainless steel sink. Some manufacturers spray a thin insulating compound on the underside of sinks to control this noise.

You can retrofit or add additional insulation if you find noise to be an issue. Spray foam insulating compounds will often readily stick or adhere to the bottoms of stainless steel sinks. Once installed, you can foam the undersides of the sink to control noise. The foam will also insulate and keep washing water hotter for longer periods of time. Be sure to wear eye protection as the foam will drop into your eyes as you lay on your back.

Can Stainless Steel Corrode?

Stainless steel sinks can corrode. Chlorine bleach is a very aggressive chemical. It can and will corrode stainless steel. Remember, stainless steel is primarily steel, chromium, and nickel. Chemicals can and will discolor these materials. Certain acids, etc. will cause problems. Don't allow family members to perform chemistry experiments or other strange brew mixing operations in your new sink. Do these operations in the basement or some other sink!

Remember, many, many ordinary household cleaners contain chlorine bleach. Look on the label for the words chlorine bleach or sodium hypochlorite. These are the keywords!

Stainless Steel Do's and Don'ts

Do's

Rinse, Rinse, and Rinse Again ...

Rinse your sink well after each use. Rub the metal with a clean cloth or paper towel as the clean water is flowing. Simply spraying will not remove all residue or harmful deposits.

Perform Weekly Cleaning With Approved Cleaner

It is very helpful to clean the sink with an approved mild or ultra-mild abrasive cleaner on a weekly basis. This will help keep the sink look shiny and new. Remember to follow grain marks that are already present. Here's my favorite stainless steel cleaner:

stainless steel cleaner

I've used this cleaner for years on my stainless steel. It's fantastic. CLICK or TAP HERE or the image to have it in your hands in days.

Dry the Sink after Rinsing

Unless pure distilled water flows from your faucet (usually this happens only in chemistry labs), there will be dissolved minerals and salts in your rinse water. When the rinse water evaporates, the minerals/salts are left behind. These are the same water spots you see on your car finish. If you dry your sink after rinsing, these spots will not form. If you have hard water deposits, try to use a little white vinegar to remove them. After removal, rinse and dry the sink.

Don'ts

Rubber Mats .... No Way!

Rubber mats cause big problems with stainless steel. They can trap harmful cleaning chemicals that will not be rinsed away. The water and cleaners is trapped between the rubber and the steel and never dries.

Scrubbing Across the Grain

Certain new sinks come with a factory grain or fine polish lines. Always scrub parallel to these marks.

Allowing Cleaners or Detergents to Dry on Surface

Cleaners and detergents can and do contain harmful chemicals that can corrode stainless steel. You can use them, but they must not be allowed to sit on the sink surface. In addition, do NOT fill the sink and allow a strong solution of chlorine bleach and water to sit in the sink. This chemical brew can cause problems. If you want to sanitize an object in a solution of chlorine bleach, use a bucket or other non-stainless steel sink.

Steel Wool Pads .... No Way!!

Never use steel wool to clean a stainless steel sink. Small steel fibers will be left behind which will rust. Always use a nylon or some other synthetic cleaning pad to scour the sink. These pads used in conjunction with approved abrasive cleaners will do anything that you might have attempted with steel wool.

Stainless Steel Sink Stain Troubleshooting Guide

Virtually every stain that occurs in a stainless steel sink is a result of operator error - that is, the homeowner or user has created the problem. High-quality stainless steel is very resistant to staining, but problems can happen. Here are some common problems:

Rust Marks / Rings in the Sink

Traditional orange/red rust marks in a high-quality stainless steel sink can almost always be traced to one of three sources - steel wool pads used for cleaning, tin-coated steel cans or cast iron pots left in the sink while wet, or iron deposits that actually are found within the water. The rust stains are not usually a part of the stainless steel, they are simple deposits on the surface of the sink. Scrubbing the stains with an abrasive cleaner along the grain lines of the finish will almost always immediately solve the problem.

Scratches

Unless your sink is made from diamonds, it is going to scratch. I found this out in my college course in geology. Stainless steel is hard but it can and will scratch. Unfortunately, some sinks come with a fine grain or brushed pattern. If a scratch goes across this grain is shows much more readily had there been no grain. Scratch removal can be very tough to accomplish. If there is a grain in your sink, you must remove while scrubbing in the same direction as the grain. Fine scratches can be removed with some buffing with ultra-fine abrasives and/or using a white 3M pad and Shiny Sinks or Inox Cream. Do not attack the sink surface or be too aggressive.

Pit Marks or Obvious Corrosion

Corrosion is a real threat. Your builder, plumber, or ceramic tile installer, or you may be responsible! Construction chemicals, solvents and household cleaners contain chlorides and acids which can react and damage stainless steel. Chlorine bleach (chloride!) or products that contain it (many ordinary household cleaners do!) can stain/corrode a stainless steel sink. Muriatic acid which may be used by a ceramic tile person to clean grout, etc. Plumbing PVC solvents etc. can possibly cause problems. If a dangerous chemical gets on the sink, wash it immediately with water. Rinse well and dry the sink with a towel or paper towels.

Standing Water in the Bottom of the Sink

High-quality sinks are formed so that the bottom surface is not level. It is pitched to the large drain hole. However, strainer baskets are installed by plumbers that sometimes have a thickness greater than the recessed ledge created for the strainer. This can cause a small backup of water. Be sure the strainer you pick is compatible with the sink.

Multicolored Stains or Residue on the Bottom of Sink

These problems are most commonly traced to minerals contained in your water. They can also be caused by salts from water softeners. Even cleaners can cause the problem, ones that have an oil base! These stains can be removed by using Shiny Sinks or Bar Keepers Friend in most cases. Rinse well and then dry the sink to see what happens.

Stainless Steel Sink Cleaners

Your grocery store will usually stock useful and approved stainless steel sink cleaners. Always, always get written information from your specific sink manufacturer to see what they recommend. Some sink manufacturers actually private label certain ultra-fine abrasives to clean and buff their sinks. Take the time to call your manufacturer before you try to become a metal finisher of your own right!

Many manufacturers approve the following cleaners. Once again, check your product literature to see what they recommend. If you do not know the manufacturer, experiment on a small section of the sink to see what happens. I always recommend the sidewall of the sink which is closest to your body. Why? Because you don't readily see that surface unless you bend over and look down at it.

Soft Scrub, Shiny Sinks, Bar Keepers Friend, Inox Cream, Cameo Stainless Steel Cleaner

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Carpet Pads Insulating Underlayment

Posted on by Tim Carter

Carpet Pads / Cushions Insulating Underlayment

Carpet pads or cushions literally make or break a carpet. I must admit that I did not fully understand the importance of carpet cushion until I did the research for this column. Once it was explained to me, it made perfect sense. I'll try to do the same for you in this short space.

Carpet Backing

Carpets are simply thousands of threads or fibers that are held in place by a backing. The threads or pieces of fiber are sewn through the backing. If the backing flexes or bends too much, the fibers become loose. The same thing can happen if there is no flex to a carpet backing. The fibers can actually come out of the backing. If this happens, the carpet looks worn and it can actually fall apart.

Cushions are the Foundation

A carpet cushion works to absorb the impact of foot traffic on carpets. This keeps the fibers tightly bound into the backing. However, if you allow the backing to flex too much by using a thick pad, the backing can actually stretch or break allowing the carpet fibers to separate from the backing. You walk a fine line in order to preserve the carpet integrity.

Thinner is Better (Often)

It stands to reason that a thinner carpet cushion will flex less than a thicker cushion. If you want your new, expensive carpet to last in high traffic areas such as stairways, hallways, or other high volume traffic areas, select a thinner, denser cushion (no thicker than 3/8 inch). This will protect your carpet.

Carpets Over Concrete Slabs

The stimulus for this column and bulletin was based upon several letters I received from people whose houses sit on slabs. They complained about cold floors in the winter time. Upon researching the topic I found that you can insulate beneath a carpet quite effectively. Not only will the carpet cushions act as insulators, you can also install a fantastic recycled fiberboard insulation product.

The fiberboard insulation product is comprised of recycled newspaper. It is extremely dense and offers an R value of 1.2 for a 1/2 inch thickness. This means that if you install this fiberboard and then use a 1/2 inch prime urethane cushion, you can achieve an R-value of 3.3 beneath a carpet. That is an outstanding accomplishment. Cold carpeting or floors will be a thing of the past.

Sound Control

Carpet cushions and the above mentioned insulating board will also help control noise. This may be a consideration if a bedroom is over a family room. It may also be helpful in an office or light commercial environment. Carpet itself helps absorb the air borne sound waves. However, a cushion beneath a carpet will further absorb and dampen the vibrations which transmit noise to another room or space. If you are building a new home and are concerned with sound transmission between floors, you should pay close attention to the sound deadening properties of the insulation board coupled with a resilient cushion.

Selecting a Carpet Cushion

All too often homeowners pay little or no attention to their carpet cushion or pad. They let the sales person do this task. It can be a costly mistake. However, as you continue to read this bulletin, you will find it is not necessarily a simple decision.

The carpet cushion industry formed an association to help promote the benefits and importance of carpet cushion. They have some excellent literature which I suggest you read. One article in particular is a must. It is titled Benefits Of Carpet Cushion. It tells you exactly the minimum type and specifications of carpet cushion to select for each room of your house. I suggest you check this article and one titled Cushion Criteria on their website under Consumer Info.

Carpet Cushion Council
P.O. Box 546
Riverside, CT 06878
203-637-1312
www.carpetcushion.org

 

Insulating Fiberboard

As hard as I tried, I could only locate one manufacturer of carpet insulating fiberboard. That is not to say another is not out there. However, one New Jersey company specifically manufactures and markets a board for this purpose. They have great literature. The Carpet and Rug Institute is in the process of certifying this underlayment. Call the manufacturer and ask about ComfortBase.

Homasote Company
Box 7240
West Trenton, NJ 08628-0240
800-257-9491

 

Carpet Cushion Insulating Values

The following is a listing of the thermal performance of carpet cushions. You will notice a huge difference among different types. The values listed are R-values. R value is a measure of resistance to heat loss. To put the cushion values into perspective, ordinary fiberglass wall insulation has an R value of a little over 3 per inch - 11 for 3.5 thickness.

Cushion Type Ounces per Square Yard R- Value
Rubberized Jute 40 oz.
50 oz.
56oz.		 0.97
1.55
1.73
Synthetic Fiber 20 oz.
28 oz.
36 oz.		 0.99
1.00
0.98
Rubber
(Waffle Pattern)		 56 oz.
64 oz.
90 oz.
100 oz.		 0.63
0.61
0.63
0.67
Rubber
(Smooth)		 62 oz.
68 oz.
80 oz.
100 oz.		 0.21
0.36
0.36
0.59
Bonded Urethane
Foam		 1/2 inch thick 1.86
Prime Urethane . 1/4 inch
3/8 inch
7/16 inch
1/2 inch		 . 1.11
1.63
1.86
2.10

Data courtesy of the Carpet Cushion Council, P.O. Box 546, Riverside, Connecticut 06878, 203-637-1312 Send them a regular#10 self addressed stamped envelope and ask for free carpet cushion information!

Carpet Cushion Types / Descriptions

A huge majority of carpet cushions will fit into one of the below categories. As you might expect, there are different grades of material within each category. The higher grades are often used in commercial installations where foot traffic over carpet is extreme. Be sure to ask what will do best in your residential application. As with most things, higher cost often means better quality.

Fiber Carpet Cushions

Perhaps you have seen a fiber pad before. Possibly it was a natural fiber pad such as jute or animal hair. You can also purchase synthetic fiber cushions and ones that are resinated recycled textile fiber. These cushions tend to produce a firm foundation for the carpet. The grade of this type of cushion is measured by ounces of cushion per square yard.

Sponge Rubber Cushions

Sponge rubber cushions come in two basic types: flat or waffled. The flat cushions tend to be stiffer or more firm than the rippled or wavy cushions. Once again, the grade is measured in ounces of rubber per square yard.

Prime Urethane Foam Cushions

Now it gets confusing! You can purchase three types of prime urethane cushion: conventional prime, grafted prime, and densified prime cushion. The first two (conventional and grafted) are made by mixing chemicals to produce the urethane. There is a wide range available. They have different densities and different levels of firmness. You will have to consult with the carpet people to see what will work best for you.

Densified foam is a special cushion which can be made to certain specifications. If a carpet company needs a cushion with a specific density, this can happen using this material. Its grade is determined by foam density or weight of foam per cubic foot.

Bonded Foam Cushions

These are the types that most people are familiar with. Bonded foam cushions are multicolored in nature. Shredded pieces of urethane foam are fused together into a giant sheet. As with all of the other cushions, density is measured by weight per square yard of material.

Frothed Urethane Foam

These are commonly higher density foam cushions. Urethane is bonded to a non-woven sheet of material much like the foam backings you find on padded carpeting. They can give a nice, firm foundation for carpeting.

Carpet Cushion Buying Tips

The greater the traffic which will traverse the carpet, the thinner the cushion should be! Select a cushion no thicker than 3/8 inch. Purchase as much weight per square yard as you can afford.

Bedrooms, dens, and other low traffic rooms can have a thicker cushion. A 1/2 inch cushion will deliver high resiliency and protect the carpet if it has a high density.

Don't cut costs on the cushion or buy it because it looks nice. The cushion is the foundation of the entire system! Laying an expensive carpet over the top of a cheap cushion is nonsense. Don't be swayed by a salesperson. Ask about density, weight, etc. If the salesmen looks puzzled, go to another store!

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