Painting Cabinetry

Posted on by Tim Carter

Painting Cabinetry
Brushes & Tool Cleanup Tips

Paint is a very interesting material. Is reminds me of a show I used to watch on television as a child. A friendly witch would twitch her nose and presto, something would change (usually for the better)! Paint isn't as fast, but it can really transform an object, room, or set of cabinets.

What's more, if you incorporate multiple colors, stenciling, or specialized painting techniques, you can really accomplish some inexpensive redecorating.

Common Complaints

Painting cabinets can lead to problems. There are two primary reasons for this: surface contamination and previous gloss or slick surfaces.

Surface contamination (a fancy term for dirt, cooking grease, old food, dust, etc.) interferes with the ability of paint to hold onto the new surface. If you paint a dirty surface, the paint sticks to the dirt, not the surface below the dirt. Peeling paint is a reality. I have seen it happen many times.

Previously painted or stained kitchen cabinets almost always have a slick or glossy surface. Why? Because this makes them easier to clean. A glossy surface doesn't have those microscopic grooves that trap dirt. This is great for cleaning, but bad for paint! Paint needs lots of tiny grooves or scratches to grab onto.

Successful paint jobs are based on thorough preparation. Clean, sand, fill all holes, caulk where necessary and your paint job will really look professional.

Small Surface Area - Big Project!

Painting kitchen cabinets is a tough job. I can paint 2 bedrooms in the time it takes to do an average set of cabinets. To achieve really good results on cabinets, you need to break them down. This means removing all hardware (door knobs, hinges, drawer pulls, etc.). Skip this important step and your paint job will suffer!

Once the hardware is removed it is time to clean and sand. Any name brand liquid soap will do just fine. However, DON'T immerse the wood in water or subject it to excessive water, especially raised panel doors. Water can get in hidden spaces and cause swelling, warping, twisting, etc.! Use damp sponges or rags to clean. Rinse immediately and dry with a dry rag. Do not let the cabinets air dry.

Sand with medium sand paper to roughen up the surface. Coarse sandpaper can be too harsh and cause deep scratches. On wide open spaces use a sanding block or vibrating sander to maintain a level sanding surface. Sand paper in your hands is a mistake. You will sand more areas than others, trust me.

 

Click here to watch a video on painting those kitchen cabinets.

 

Choose Your Weapon ....

It is time to paint. What will you use? Most choose ease and convenience - water based paints. Why? Because they think it is easier to clean up when using water based paints. Well, that is not necessarily so. More on this later.

Oil based and water based paints will produce superior results. However, many experts will agree that oil based finishes will yield a glossier surface and will harden more rapidly than water based finishes. These are important characteristics if you want clean cabinetry as well as a functioning kitchen in a short period of time.

To Prime or Not to Prime .......

This is a tough call. If you are painting over a clear finish like urethane or varnish, it is mandatory that you use a bonding primer. If you are painting over previously painted surfaces that will require two coats, then it is a great idea. If you are just applying a fresh coat of the same color or nearly so, then you might be able to get by with a top coat only. Be sure to clear this move with the manufacturer. Check the label of the finish paint. See what it has to say about the use of a primer. When in doubt, always read instructions (That's a joke! Read before acting at all times!).

Remember, primers are formulated to bond well to the surface being painted. They also are made to even out the texture between bare wood and painted wood. Primer/sealers will also even out porosity in the event that bare wood has been exposed during sanding.

Final Gratification

This is what everyone always want to do first - paint. It is really the second last step in the process. The application of paint is an art. Most people that I watch paint do a miserable job. Why? Because they were never really taught. They think that anyone can do it. Well, anyone can do it, but not necessarily well!

Let's do the doors and drawer fronts first. We can really make up some time with these articles first.

If you are using oil based paint, you will need two brushes: a 1.5 inch and a 2 inch wide brush. Buy the 1.5 inch one as a tapered brush. Be sure they are china bristle or a synthetic fiber brush that is suitable for oil! If you use water based paints, NO china bristle brushes! You will ruin them with the water. It swells the natural hair bristles.

Oh yes, we also need a roller pan and a small 2 or 3 inch wide fine nap roller. What? You are confused? You mean to tell me that you have never used a small roller to apply trim paint? See what I mean by everyone thinking they could paint....! Come on now, don't go away angry....

We are going to use the roller to apply the paint on any flat surface which will accept paint from the roller. The brush is used to smooth the paint after it is applied.

Painting Doors

Raised panel doors should be painted from the inside out. In other words, paint the flat center area first. Then paint the beveled areas of the raised panel. Finish the outer frame last.

Detailing is everything. See where one piece of wood joins another? Those are the same places that brush strokes should end and begin. Speaking of brush strokes, do you know how to avoid them on long pieces of wood work? It is easy.

You avoid brush strokes by working from an unpainted area towards an area that was just painted. The final brush stroke is towards the painted area. Just as you finish the stroke you gently lift the brush off the surface while your arm is still moving. You will see the lift off mark for a few moments, but if you have a great self leveling paint, it will disappear!

As soon as the door is painted, set it flat on a can or some other surface that is smaller than the door. This will allow you to get all edges painted. It will also reduce the risk of runs in case you put too much paint on. If you set the door on the floor, on paper, etc. the paint at the edges will stick and cause a big mess.

Drawers - A Piece of Cake

Paint the drawers in the same fashion. Set them on end to allow the paint to dry. Try not to get too much paint inside the knob or handle holes. If you do, remove the paint with toothpicks as soon as possible.

Let's talk about open time for a moment. High gloss paints require that you keep a wet edge. If you try to paint too large an area and the paint starts to set, you will have problems when you try to blend the fresh paint to the drying paint. Flat wall and ceiling paints are very forgiving. If you are used to this, you had better get ready for a BIG surprise. Paint one door or one drawer from start to finish. DON'T try to get an assembly line going with that roller. Cover the roller pan or brush with aluminum foil to minimize exposure to air if you are worried about the paint drying.

Paint Indoors or in a Garage

Paint the doors and drawers in a covered area. Avoid direct sunlight and breezes. You will find it easier to keep the before mentioned "wet edge".

Cabinet Frames - Gravy!!

The cabinet frame is a cinch. Use the roller on the flat fronts. Use that tapered brush for all tight spots and cutting in against walls and countertops. Remember, no brush strokes!

Paint Brushes - Types & Tips for Lifetime Service

Paint brushes are like anything else. There are different types and different levels of quality. There is absolutely no one Wonder Brush that works for all paints and surfaces.

One thing is for sure, if you currently have or purchase a pure china bristle brush, you can not use it with water based paints or clean it with water. It will ruin it. The natural animal bristles will swell when they come into contact with water. The oils in oil based paint do not cause this same problem.

Some synthetic brushes are multi-purpose. They can be used with either oil or water based paints. However, you must read the label to make sure the brush can be used for oil and water paints. Always choose the brush for the surface. In other words, DON'T use a wimpy 1.5 inch brush for painting clapboards on a house! That calls for a 3.5 or 4 inch brush. You will wear out a small brush on a large surface.

Never try to clean a brush with hot solvents or liquid brush or paint removers! This will absolutely ruin the body or strength of the bristles.

DON'T hammer the brush on any surface. Never hammer the ferrule, or metal band against anything. This band is what holds the bristles in place! If you distort it, you can loosen the bristles.

Never allow a brush to "stand" on its bristles in a bucket or paint can. You can bend them permanently. Use the hanger hole found in the end of every brush.

DON'T allow a brush to "finger". This happens when the bristles separate into clumps when cleaning. It is a sure sign that paint is still present up near the ferrule.

NEVER turn a brush upside down into the flow of water from a faucet! This will bend bristles back and permanently ruin the brush. Proper cleaning information is just below - keep reading......

After cleaning, always store the brush in the cardboard protective casing. What? You threw it away? What were you thinking? Those things are nifty. They really do a wonderful job of protecting brushes in between painting jobs. Make sure you keep that cardboard wrap the next time.

Author's Note: I have a wonderful step-by-step EBook that shows you how to get professional results when painting cabinets. It is easy to follow and affordable. Plus, you get the EBook instantly!

Paint Tool Cleaning Tips

Preventative Measures

Are you going to paint with water based paints? If so, get your brush wet and remove excess water before you dip it in the paint can! This will prevent the paint from drying up near the ferrule. This is where many problems start with cleaning brushes. You can do this same thing with paint thinner and china bristle brushes.

Cleaning More Than Once

Who says you have to wait until the end of each day to clean a brush? If you want to really preserve an expensive brush, you may choose to clean it or partially clean it when you take a break or eat lunch. Rig up a 5 gallon bucket with water and a stick over the top. Suspend the brush from the stick so that just the bristles are immersed in the water. You can do this same thing with oil paints, just use a small narrow vessel to limit the amount of paint thinner you use.

Cleaning Tools

A spinner and a curved scraper are the two tools you must buy. A curved scraper allows you to remove vast quantities of paint from rollers before the cleaning process. A spinner is a device that allows you to spin a brush or roller rapidly by pumping a handle. These devices work just like your washing machine in the spin cycle. The centrifugal force of the spinning throws out the paint contaminated solvent or water from deep within the brush or roller. You can clean a roller, for instance, in about 45 seconds with a spinner, I'm serious! Brushes take a little more time. Maybe 2 - 3 minutes.

Spin the paint out of the brushes or rollers inside a bucket. If not, you will have paint everywhere! When cleaning oil paint, use separate rinses, don't saturate the roller or brush each time you spin it with fresh thinner. This can get expensive. Save used paint thinner! The paint solids will settle to the bottom and the cloudy liquid is perfect for using the next time! Always comb brushes after they are clean and return them to the cardboard covers. Store roller covers on end to prevent pile crush!

Brush Cleaning Techniques

Brushes can be ruined if you turn them upside down and force water into the bristles. They can also be ruined if you bend the bristles by forcing the brush against the bottom of the sink. So how do you do it?

Take a one gallon can and fill it half way with warm water for latex paints. Rapidly shake the brush back and forth in the water without jamming the bristles against the bottom. Dump the water and do this again for about 10 seconds each cycle. Spin the brush every other cycle until the water remains clear in the can while shaking. You will be shocked how easy it is!

Column B149

Housewrap Air Barrier

Posted on by Tim Carter

Air Infiltration Barriers Housewraps
Manufacturers - Installation

Christmas in July. That is what I used to think when we put housewrap on a summertime project. In fact, I would, depending upon the outside temperature (if it was too hot, I would be grumpy), even make a big flat bow(using the seam tape) on the front of the house when the installation was complete. The housewrap, the colored tape for the seams, and the bow made a new home look like a big Christmas gift box.

Plastic Wrap - - That's It!

All of the new housewrap products are simply thin plastic in big rolls. There is poly this and poly that but the bottom line is that the plastics are specially formulated to stop air infiltration and act as a water barrier. Because they are plastic, you need to handle them differently and use special tapes, fasteners and care when installing. Without this care, you are wasting your time as well as future energy dollars.

The housewraps must not be compared to plastic food wrap you use in your refrigerator. These do not usually allow water vapor transmission. Housewraps, however, must be able to breathe. Water vapor created inside your house must not be blocked as it makes its way to the outside atmosphere. Some housewraps actually let water vapor pass between the fibers, while other have very tiny holes poked in them.

Felt Substitute? ... Maybe

Housewraps were introduced in the late 1970's. Prior to that the only way to prevent water from getting to wall sheathing or the inside of your house was to use asphalt saturated felt paper. It has a proven track record and is still used in many applications.

I renovated many a home in my career. Most of these houses had felt paper beneath the wood siding, cement stucco, or other outer covering. Sure, after 50 - 70 years the felt was brittle, but it could still repel water! In fact, in many instances, felt paper does a better job of keeping out water around the actual fasteners. Some of the plastic housewraps can and do leak if concentrated amounts of water are directed at fastener locations. As far as I'm concerned, this isn't a major problem, since the housewrap is not supposed to be the primary water barricade!

Tough To Compare Brands

If you are shopping for a housewrap, good luck! It is almost impossible to compare performance characteristics. Why, you ask? Because the manufacturers do not have to use the same testing procedures, that's why. Each manufacturer can use a test which makes their product look the best in each aspect of testing. Thus, you are comparing apples to oranges to onions.

Not to worry, however. All in all, just about any housewrap, properly installed, will significantly help you with regards to air & moisture infiltration.

Saving Energy

Housewraps save you energy by slowing down or stopping the movement of air through insulation. You know those R- values you hear so much about? Well, those R-values are achieved in test cells where there is virtually no air movement! Air moving through insulation lowers its R-value, plain and simple.

Installation Is Critical

If you think a bunch of bottom feeders are going to install your housewrap, you had better take the day off and supervise them! If the installation is sloppy, you are simply not going to achieve the many benefits these wonderful products offer.

The products must be installed so pieces higher on a wall overlap lower pieces. All holes, seams, edges, etc. must be taped. Flashing details at windows and doors are critical. Tight installation at inside corners is a must. Minimal exposure to sunlight is also important depending upon which product you choose. Just about every one of these plastic wraps begins to degrade when exposed to sunlight. Top performance occurs when you cover them rapidly with brick, siding, or stucco.

Whether you decide to build a new home or a room addition, seriously consider the use of these great products. They can save you money and prevent moisture problems. The old master builders who used felt knew what they were doing. We need to continue in their footsteps when building. Fortunately, we now have a product that can do just a little bit better than felt paper!

Air Barrier Installation Tips & Suggestions

Cheap Sunglasses ......

Have you got your air barrier? Is it a white product? If so, you had better get some sun-glasses. These products are brilliant white and will hurt your eyes, trust me! The darker products are definitely easier on the eyes.

Read The Instructions

You might know that I am a big fan of reading instructions. Not all housewraps install in the same fashion. Certain brands have a definite inside and outside face. Install it backwards and you might not get any water protection! Also, specific tapes have to be used for different housewraps. You can not simply use duct tape or masking tape!!! Nails are important. Some housewraps require large headed fasteners.

Start At The Bottom

Housewraps shed water. This means that the lowest level piece must be overlapped by successively higher pieces, much like roofing shingles. Also, the housewrap needs to overlap brick flashing. If you are using vinyl or wood siding, make sure the housewrap overlaps the top of the foundation. A 3/4 inch overlap will prevent water from getting on top of the foundation and into your house.

Proper Timing For Installation

Housewraps go in before the windows and doors! You simply cover over these openings as you install the material. After the house is wrapped, you come back and slice an X at the window/door locations from corner to corner. Wrap the material inside the opening, fasten to the face of the rough jamb, and trim off excess. Do not put nails within 4 inches of the top of the openings over windows and doors. Why? If your windows and doors come with preformed /flashed vinyl or aluminum nailing flanges, I would like to see you carefully slice the housewrap at the top of the window opening. Slide the window nailing flange (TOP ONLY!) under the housewrap. Tape it to the window after this is complete. This prevents water from getting behind the window.

Inside Corners

Watch those inside corners!! The house wrap MUST be very tight. If it pulls away because you do not nail it tightly in the corner, your bricklayers, and/or siding people will slice it!

Keep It Level

When you start, put one single nail at the top. Unroll 15 - 20 feet and align with the top of the foundation (1 inch over, remember!). After the housewrap is aligned, then nail. Nail sideways from top to bottom to remove wrinkles.

You will not be able to install housewrap by yourself. Count on using a minimum of one helper. It takes one person just to hold the roll and keep it taut.

Install the top of the housewrap between the top two wall plates if possible. If not, be sure the top is taped to the wall or else soffit downdrafts will keep you cold!!!

 

Manufacturers & Comparative Data

The following is a listing of manufacturers of air infiltration housewraps. Remember that there is NO uniform standard for comparing performance! Accckkkk!!! So, you need to look for which characteristic (air infiltration, tear resistance, UV degradation, water vapor transmission, etc.) is of most importance to you. All of the products will perform well in my opinion. They KEY to performance is based much more so on installation than the product itself. You can buy the best air barrier and it will be worthless if installed poorly.

 

  • ABTCO, Inc. ... 800-521-4250
    They make Prowrap. It is a perforated cross laminated polyethylene. Prowrap is 3 mils thick, white in color, and should not be exposed to sunlight for more than 6 months. ABTCO sells special sealing tape.

  • Amoco Foam Products ... 800-241-4402
    They make Amowrap. It is a perforated, polyolefin-coated woven polypropylene. Amowrap is 8 mils thick, green in color, and should not be exposed to sunlight for more than 12 months.
  • Celotex Corp. ... 813-873-1700
    Celotex makes Tuff Wrap. It is a perforated polyethylene-coated woven polyethylene. Tuff Wrap is 5 mils thick and white in color. It is a good idea to cover this stuff within 3 months.
  • Du Pont ... 800-44-TYVEK
    Du Pont makes Tyvek, the original housewrap. Tyvek is a spun bonded polyethylene. Tyvek is about 4.5 mils thick and brilliant white in color. It should not be exposed to sunlight for more than 4 months. 3M makes a special seam tape for Tyvek. It is fire engine red.
  • Parsec, Inc. ... 800-527-3454
    They make Airtight Wrap. It is a perforated, cross laminated polyethylene. It is blue in color and 4 mils thick. You can leave this product exposed for about 4 months.
  • Raven Industries ... 800-635-3456
    Raven makes Rufco-Wrap. It is a perforated, cross laminated polyethylene. Rufco-Wrap is white in color and 3 mils thick. Evidently, it can be exposed to sunlight for up to 6 months.
  • Reemay, Inc. ... 800-321-6271
    Reemay makes Typar. Typar is a perforated spun bonded polypropylene coated polypropylene. It is silver colored and is about 7 mils thick. Reemay says that you can leave it in the sun for a long (unlimited) time without damage.

 

Air Leak Alternative Product

By now you figured out that air leakage occurs primarily at joints - where things abut one another. So, you might ask, why not simply tape these joints? Well, good idea! One company makes a product that claims to be able to do just that. Benjamin Obdyke 800-523-5261 makes a tape called Gap Wrap. It sticks to virtually anything and is applied using a handy dispenser just like you see people use to tape shipping boxes. The reasoning behind this product is sound - i.e. tape the gaps where air is entering. However, I feel that the installation of a water barrier is just as important. This tape method does not address this concern. If you tape over plywood joints, the plywood is still exposed behind brick veneer, vinyl siding, and/or wood siding. Water that gets behind these things can and will rot cellulose based products.

Column B311

Dishwasher Installation & Energy Savings

Posted on by Tim Carter

Standard & Electronic Dishwashers:
Installation & Energy Guidelines

My wife came from a family that had a dishwasher. I lived on the other side of the railroad tracks and had no machine. When we were first married, Kathy hated to wash dishes by hand. So, I ended up doing them as often as I could. I kept saying it wasn't that bad (what a fool!). Of course, I didn't know any better. It's like the people who used to live in Phoenix in the early 1900's without air conditioning.

On or about out 6th wedding anniversary, I remodeled our kitchen and installed a dishwasher. WOW! what a great machine! I was hooked.

Technology Marches On

There has always been a difference in the quality of dishwashers. Not all machines do a great job of cleaning. There are economy models that many tract builders use that simply squirt water around the inside of a plastic tub. I have received numerous complaints from friends who have been stuck with such machines.

You can spend a little more money and get a machine that does a lot more. They clean better and require little maintenance. In fact, I installed a new machine in my "new" home that I built 10 years ago. The machine has been used no less than 3,500 times and I haven't done one thing to it. Not only that, it does a great job of cleaning.

The new machines are different than my 10 year old machine. Some have electronic sensors that attempt to help you save money and do a better job of cleaning your dishes. This technology is very recent. In fact, not all manufacturers have embraced it just yet.

Big Brother Is Watching!

Take apart one of the new machines and you would think it is used in the espionage and spy industry. You will find electric eyes, and a multitude of sensors that spy on your daily habits, water temperature, and quantity of cleaning soap you use. This is a far cry from the dishwasher I use. My machine, I figure, has a grand total of one sensor. I believe it has a built-in thermostat that detects the temperature of the incoming water. It then knows how long to heat the water before starting to work. My machine is a Model T Ford compared to the new dishwashers!

Energy Savings

We need to be concerned about energy. There are several reasons. Number 1, saving energy usually means saving money. Number 2, saving energy means saving natural resources. However, proposed energy savings can sometimes actually cost you money. How you might ask? Well, I'll tell you.

Take the new dishwashers for example. Two of the models claim to save between 21 and 24 percent on your energy bills. Furthermore, the units may save on water usage as well. The trick is to determine if you actually get a reasonable payback on the extra money you have to spend to achieve these savings.

A Sample Calculation

Energy cost fluctuate seasonally and regionally. There is no way for me to calculate an across the board savings for every person in every city. You need to do the simple calculations yourself. All you need is a copy of your electric bill and water bill.

I just looked at my most recent bills. Here in Cincinnati, I pay $.077 for each 1,000 watts of electricity I use. I pay $.000267 for each gallon of water I use.

Remember how I said that my dishwasher has been used about 3,500 times. OK, lets do a rough calculation.

Every dishwasher has different water usage amounts. They can range from 4.8 to 9.0 gallons of water per load. For sake of discussion, let's say a machine uses 7 gallons.

Electricity usage varies as well, as the machine draws different amounts of electricity during the washing, rinsing, and drying cycles. For sake of discussion, let's say the dishwasher operates at 60% total load capacity over the entire washing cycle.

In my case, I would have used 24,500 gallons of water in 10 years. At today's cost, that would be $6.54 worth of water in 10 years!

Electricity will be more, that's for sure. Let's assume that a dishwasher runs for 1 hour total each load. In my case, at current rates, I would have used 2,100,000 watts over 10 years (3,500 x 1,000 x.6). The cost for this electricity at current rates would be $161.00. This means that the total utility cost over tens years of use is roughly $170.00. If a new dishwasher claims to save you say 30 percent on your utility usage, BIG DEAL! That would mean I would save $51 over 10 years. Would you pay $200 more for a dishwasher that saves you $51? I didn't think so. Wait for the prices to drop as technology improves. It will be worth the wait!

Manufacturers of Electronic and Standard Dishwashers

At the time this bulletin was published, there were only two manufacturers who made electronic dirt sensing "smart" dishwashers. These two happen to be General Electric and Maytag. The two machines accomplish the same task, but do it in a different manner. The General Electric machine has an electric eye that looks at the water passing through the water pump. The Maytag machine has numerous different sensors such as a detergent sensor and a fuzzy logic sensor that memorizes your washing habits and times of day that the machine is loaded.

I think that you will gradually see the other leading manufacturers bring an electronic dishwasher to the marketplace. As this happens, the technology will improve and the cost will eventually drop. As it stands, the current models are somewhat pricey. However, this is always the case with new technology. I recommend that you call these companies and request product literature. A few minutes of your time will yield impressive results.

  • Admiral ... 515-792-7000
  • Amana ... 800-843-0304
  • Frigidaire Co. ... 800-685-6005
  • Gaggenau ... 617-255-1766
  • General Electric ... 800-626-2000
  • Jenn-Air ... 800-JENNAIR
  • KitchenAid ... 800-253-3977
  • Magic Chef ... 800-536-6247
  • Maytag ... 515-792-7000
  • Rohl Corp. ... 800-777-9762
  • Sears ... 800-359-2000
  • Tappan ... 800-685-6005
  • Viking Range Corp. ... 601-455-1200
  • Whirlpool Corp. ... 800-253-1301
  • White-Westinghouse ... 800-685-6005

 

Installing A Dishwasher - New Or Remodel

Less Complicated Than It Seems

Dishwashers can appear to be intimidating appliances to install. this is especially true if you are used to dealing with toasters and refrigerators. A dishwasher has three "hard" (permanently) connected items that can confound an unprepared homeowner. These three items are the power supply, the incoming water supply, and the drain line. These connections are really quite easy if you possess the ability to read, have some patience, and own a few basic tools.

Replacing An Existing Or New Machine

If your task is to install a new dishwasher in place of an existing machine, much of the work is already completed. The first job is to remove the old dishwasher.

Start by locating the fuse or circuit breaker that powers the dishwasher. Turn it to the off position. If you do not do this, there is the possibility of a serious and/or lethal shock hazard. I guarantee you that the power line will touch the metal part of the dishwasher as you detach the wire. You will get zotted if you don't turn off the power!

Now, find the water turn off valve that supplies hot water to the dishwasher. If you had a first class plumber install your first machine, the tee fitting that supplies water to the machine should be after the cutoff valve that controls the hot water to your kitchen sink. This means that you should be able to turn that valve off and the dishwasher and the hot side of the kitchen sink will be the only things without water. If you had a bad plumber, well, you may have to shut off all the water in the house!

After the water is off, it is time to take things apart. All of the necessary disconnections can be made by removing the lower front panel of the dishwasher. This panel is usually held in place by two screws on the kickplate. Remove them and jiggle the cover off. The power supply (electric line) enters a little box. Remove the cover, and disconnect the power. Take the wire from the box and immediately attach a wire nut to each bare wire. This is a safety measure in case some one turns the power on too early.

Now disconnect the water supply. The water line is usually a small diameter soft copper line that enters the front of the dishwasher. Use an adjustable open end wrench and rotate the brass compression nut counterclockwise. Once, loose, the pipe should pop right out.

The drain line is simply a flexible black hose that often is near the center of the work area. Loosen the clamp and pull it off.

The only thing stopping you from removing the machine are two screws that are located at the top of the dishwasher right where the countertop passes over the machine. Do you see them? Remove them and the machine should slide right out!

Installing The New Machine

The new machine should go in just like the old one came out. Make sure the adjustable leveling feet are not too high. This may cause the dishwasher to jamb as you slide it in place.

Get the machine level and make sure the reveal along each side looks good with the door closed. Be sure all of the leveling feet are touching the floor so the machine doesn't wobble. When you are satisfied with the fit, screw the dishwasher to the countertop.

I always recommend that you install a completely new flexible rubber drain line. The old one could rupture and cause a flood. Replace this line before you slide the dishwasher into place. Leave plenty of extra hose. It can be trimmed for length after you have the machine in place. Make sure the hose is not crimped!

Most dishwashers do not come with a special required fitting - a "dishwasher ell". This is a small 90 degree angle fitting that allows you to make a compression fitting connection to the machine. The outlet size of this fitting is critical! They come in two sizes: 3/8 and 1/4 inch. Take your old one off the other dishwasher and go to a plumbing supply house. From that fitting, they will be able to tell you the size. Don't forget to apply Teflon tape or pipe dope to the male threads when you install the new fitting into the dishwasher. Don't over tighten!! The place you attach this is often plastic. If you over tighten, you will split the plastic!

Reconnect the water line and power supply. Turn on the water first and check for leaks. Be sure the compression nut and brass o-ring are centered on the pipe when tightening! If you have no leaks, then turn on the power. Be sure all of the packing material is taken out of the machine before operating. Absolutely, read all the instructions before turning the machine on for the first time.

Read a tip about the dishwasher door gasket in the December 17, 2010 Newsletter.

Column B131

Furnace Payback

Posted on by Tim Carter

Heating Equipment Life Cycle Costs
Air Conditioning Purchasing Tips

Don't ask me why they do it. I don't know! Furnaces seem to have a service life of 20 to 25 years, whereas air conditioning condensing units (that big box outside your house) seem to only last for half that amount. This wasn't such a big deal 25 years ago. Energy conservation was not a big concern. Fuel costs were moderately low. Well, times have changed.

Thousands of people will be pondering what to do this year. Their air conditioning unit will give up the ghost. The salesperson will tell them how they should switch out that older 75 percent efficient furnace. Heck, the new furnaces operate at 90 percent or better, the salesperson will say. In fact, the furnace I'm going to let you have operates at 95 percent efficiency! Fuel saving will be enormous. Happy days are here again! ..... I can hear it now.

The Illusion

Here in Cincinnati, we have a 5 month heating season, November 1 through March 31. Some years, it stretches a little each way on chilly mornings. The point is this. To determine whether it is a good idea to switch out a furnace, you need to see if it makes sound economic sense.

Sometimes furnace and air conditioning people lead you to believe that you can save big bucks by switching out a furnace and/or air-conditioner that is still working fine. The numbers don't always add up. You need to do some math.

Let's look at a heating calculation. The first thing to do is to calculate what it actually costs you to heat your home. Select two bills from your last year's records. One should be from the early fall and the other from the late spring. These bills will show what your base load is for your utilities. Base load simply means all other costs less heating and cooling costs. If you add the two bills together and divide by two you will get an averaged value.

Now, take your bills from last year when you know the furnace was running for any period whatsoever. Subtract the averaged base load amount from each bill. This will give you the extra each month you are paying to heat your house. This is not an exact science, as your electric bills will tend to be higher as you get deeper into the winter, less daylight you know.

If you total the overage for each month, you will arrive at your annual heating cost. Let's consider this number. For sake of discussion, let's assume it is $800.

The Real Savings

Remember our salesperson? He talked about enormous savings. Is it true? Not really. Your existing 10 -12 year old furnace is possibly operating at a 75 percent efficiency level. The new furnace will operate at 95 percent. This is a 20 percent difference. The actual savings is 21 percent because you divide the 20 percent by 95 percent.

How does that relate to our example? Well, let's do the simple math. $800 times 21 percent savings per year equals a whopping $168. This isn't bad, but what does it really mean? You have to look a little deeper to find the answer. Interest Income - Significant

So what happens if you don't switch and get the new furnace? Will you go bankrupt? Will the utility company stockholders love you? How are you going to pay for that new furnace? From your savings? I thought so.

If you buy the new furnace your income stream gets slightly interrupted. In other words you loose the earning capability of the money you just gave to that salesperson!

Let's assume the new furnace will cost $3,500 (a reasonable amount). If you put that money in a certificate of deposit now, it will generate approximately 5 percent per year. That is $175.00 before tax. Accckkkk! You will loose money (before tax) if you buy the furnace!

If you have any investment success whatsoever (stocks, mutual funds, etc.), you can actually make significantly more money by not buying the new furnace, Many people fail to perform this vital second step in the analysis.

Another common mistake is to fail to recognize the payback time. In other words, how many years does it take to pay off the new system? For this calculation, you need to consider the rising cost of fuel. Assuming a 2 percent per year inflation in fuel costs, you need to multiply your annual cost by 11.07 to arrive at the total cost for the next 10 years. In our example, our fuel costs over the next ten years would be $800 times 11.07 which equals $8,856.

Our savings, remember, was 21 percent. So, we should expect to save $8,856 times 21 percent or $1,859.76. Yikes!!!!! In ten years, we have barely paid for half the cost of the new furnace. Not to mention the fact that we haven't offset the extra money we still have in the bank plus the interest it generated. It doesn't appear that switching a furnace that still works at a higher level of efficiency really pays.

Alternatives

OK, so your furnace has 10 - 15 years of useful life. Does that mean you do nothing to save money? No. There may be some options available. For example, you may choose to install a flue damper. These devices automatically shut off the flue trapping residual heat left in the furnace after the burner shuts off. These help save money and energy.

What about replacing that old standing pilot light with a spark ignitor? This might pay for itself. If you have an oil furnace, you might think of installing a flame retention burner. This can sometimes improve the efficiency of your oil furnace by 10 - 15 percent.

Talk to your heating contractor. See what options they recommend. Do the math. It is simple and only takes a few moments. You might be surprised by the figures.

A Quick Sample Calculation

OK, Ok, I'll show you how really simple it is to do one of these calculations. For your own situation, you need to just follow along. You will see just how simple it is to save money!

Late Spring Utility Bill
Early Fall Utility Bill

Total of both bills

 $85.00
$95.00
---------
$180.00
Average Monthly Cost for Base Load utilities
(no heating or cooling costs)  ($180.00 divided by 2)		 $90.00
Total Sum of Utility Bills for Nov., Dec., Jan., Feb. & March $1,250.00

Less (minus) the Base Load for those 5 months (5 times $90.00)		 $450.00
Annual Heating Cost (actual cost to heat with existing furnace) $800.00
Projected Energy Savings with new furnace:

  • Existing Furnace is 75 percent efficient
  • New Furnace is 95 percent efficient
  • 20 percent difference
Actual Savings is 20 percent divided by 95 percent which equals 21 percent
Savings per year with New Furnace ($800 current cost times 21 percent) $168.00

You can take it from here. To finish the calculation, simply obtain a quote from the heating salesperson for the cost of the new furnace. Then find out what your local bank is paying for their CD's. Or, use the rate of return you have been averaging on your stocks, bonds, or mutual funds. Do you make more money in interest each year than what you will save? I thought so!

Tips on Purchasing a New Air Conditioner

Efficiency Ratings - Watch Out!

Air conditioners are not all created equal. Some perform much better than others. They are rated using a numeric system referred to as a SEER rating. The higher this number, the better the machine is at converting electricity to cooling. SEER ratings of 12 to 14 are not uncommon.

However, if your air conditioner fails and you replace it, the new unit may not deliver this promised efficiency. The SEER rating is calculated using specific inside matched coils and air velocity. It is very complicated. In order for you to achieve the high efficiency performance promised on the yellow sticker, you may have to make modifications inside your house. Discuss this possibility with your heating/cooling contractor. If this person looks puzzled or says "Huhhhh?" when you bring this issue up, I suggest you call another contractor immediately.

Extended Warranties - Be Careful!

Just about every manufacturer of air conditioners offer extended warranty programs on parts and labor. However, you must be careful. Often a third party company handles this 'insurance'. That's what extended warranties really are. If you make a claim, it is no different than any other insurance loss. A manufacturer who backs its own warranties may be a better choice. Look before you sign!

Sizing Air Conditioning Equipment

Did your last air conditioner not work too well? Don't blame it on low efficiency! It may not have been sized properly! A new unit sized the same will perform poorly no matter how efficient it is! I covered this topic extensively in Builder Bulletin 31. You may wish to send in for it if you don't already have it. Heat gain calculations are a must! Make your contractor perform these important calculations! It is not uncommon in new subdivisions for all the houses of a similar size to have the same sized air conditioner. Did you know this is possibly a mistake? The size of the air conditioner is a function of many thing, including but not limited to, the number of occupants, the compass direction the house faces, the number of windows, and types and quantity of interior lighting. If you have made changes in your windows and have new Low-E glass, your cooling requirements may even be less! All of these things need to be calculated. Computer programs do it very quickly. Ask for proof of these calculations before you sign the contract for the new unit. Remember, the first guy could have goofed. If they simply put in the same sized unit as you have, it could be wrong.

Projected Energy Savings Table

This table says it all in my book. I have already shown you how to determine your real annual heating costs. See where your costs plug into the table in the first column. The second column shows you the savings the HVAC sales person tells you that you will achieve should you switch from a 70 to a 95 percent efficient furnace. They quickly say that within X years you get a payoff and start saving money. Not so fast! What happens if gas rates go down? The payoff takes longer. Well, gas rates doubled in some areas this past winter. What happens if they are cut in half and drop down to where they were last year? The payoff time could double or triple OR extend beyond the life of the furnace!

 

Annual
Heating Costs		 Savings Switching
from 70% to
a 95% Efficient
Gas Furnace		 Annual Savings if
Gas Costs DROP
10%		 Annual Savings if
Gas Costs DROP
20%		 Annual Savings if
Gas Costs DROP
30%
$1,200 $300 $270 $240 $210
$1,000 $250 $225 $200 $175
$800 $200 $190 $160 $140
$600 $150 $135 $120 $105
$400 $100 $90 $80 $70

Column B346

HVAC Payback Tips

Posted on by Tim Carter

Don't ask me why they do it. I don't know! Furnaces seem to have a service life of 20 to 25 years, whereas air conditioning condensing units (that big box outside your house) seem to only last for half that amount. This wasn't such a big deal 25 years ago. Energy conservation was not a big concern. Fuel costs were moderately low. Well, times have changed.

Thousands of people will be pondering what to do this year. Their air conditioning unit will give up the ghost. The salesperson will tell them how they should switch out that older 75 percent efficient furnace. Heck, the new furnaces operate at 90 percent or better, the salesperson will say. In fact, the furnace I'm going to let you have operates at 95 percent efficiency! Fuel saving will be enormous. Happy days are here again! ..... I can hear it now.

The Illusion

Here in Cincinnati, we have a five month heating season, November 1 through March 31. Some years, it stretches a little each way on chilly mornings. The point is this. To determine whether it is a good idea to switch out a furnace, you need to see if it makes sound economic sense.

Sometimes, furnace and air conditioning people lead you to believe that you can save big bucks by switching out a furnace and/or air-conditioner that is still working fine. The numbers don't always add up. You need to do some math.

Let's look at a heating calculation. The first thing to do is to calculate what it actually costs you to heat your home. Select two bills from your last year's records. One should be from the early fall and the other from the late spring. These bills will show what your base load is for your utilities. Base load simply means all other costs less heating and cooling costs. If you add the two bills together and divide by two you will get an averaged value.

Now, take your bills from last year when you know the furnace was running for any period whatsoever. Subtract the averaged base load amount from each bill. This will give you the extra each month you are paying to heat your house. This is not an exact science, as your electric bills will tend to be higher as you get deeper into the winter, less daylight you know.

If you total the overage for each month, you will arrive at your annual heating cost. Let's consider this number. For sake of discussion, let's assume it is $800.

The Real Savings

Remember our salesperson? He talked about enormous savings. Is it true? Not really. Your existing 10 -12 year old furnace is possibly operating at a 75 percent efficiency level. The new furnace will operate at 95 percent. This is a 20 percent difference. The actual savings is 21 percent because you divide the 20 percent by 95 percent.

How does that relate to our example? Well, let's do the simple math. $800 times 21 percent savings per year equals a whopping $168. This isn't bad, but what does it really mean? You have to look a little deeper to find the answer. Interest Income - Significant

So what happens if you don't switch and get the new furnace? Will you go bankrupt? Will the utility company stockholders love you? How are you going to pay for that new furnace? From your savings? I thought so.

If you buy the new furnace your income stream gets slightly interrupted. In other words you loose the earning capability of the money you just gave to that salesperson!

Let's assume the new furnace will cost $3,500 (a reasonable amount). If you put that money in a certificate of deposit now, it will generate approximately 5 percent per year. That is $175.00 before tax. Accckkkk! You will loose money (before tax) if you buy the furnace!

If you have any investment success whatsoever (stocks, mutual funds, etc.), you can actually make significantly more money by not buying the new furnace, Many people fail to perform this vital second step in the analysis.

Another common mistake is to fail to recognize the payback time. In other words, how many years does it take to pay off the new system? For this calculation, you need to consider the rising cost of fuel. Assuming a 2 percent per year inflation in fuel costs, you need to multiply your annual cost by 11.07 to arrive at the total cost for the next 10 years. In our example, our fuel costs over the next ten years would be $800 times 11.07 which equals $8,856.

Our savings, remember, was 21 percent. So, we should expect to save $8,856 times 21 percent or $1,859.76. Yikes!!!!! In ten years, we have barely paid for half the cost of the new furnace. Not to mention the fact that we haven't offset the extra money we still have in the bank plus the interest it generated. It doesn't appear that switching a furnace that still works at a higher level of efficiency really pays.

Alternatives

OK, so your furnace has 10 - 15 years of useful life. Does that mean you do nothing to save money? No. There may be some options available. For example, you may choose to install a flue damper. These devices automatically shut off the flue trapping residual heat left in the furnace after the burner shuts off. These help save money and energy.

What about replacing that old standing pilot light with a spark ignitor? This might pay for itself. If you have an oil furnace, you might think of installing a flame retention burner. This can sometimes improve the efficiency of your oil furnace by 10 - 15 percent.

Talk to your heating contractor. See what options they recommend. Do the math. It is simple and only takes a few moments. You might be surprised by the figures.

A Quick Sample Calculation

OK, Ok, I'll show you how really simple it is to do one of these calculations. For your own situation, you need to just follow along. You will see just how simple it is to save money!

Late Spring Utility Bill
Early Fall Utility BillTotal of both bills		 $85.00
$95.00
---------
$180.00
Average Monthly Cost for Base Load utilities
(no heating or cooling costs)  ($180.00 divided by 2)		 $90.00
Total Sum of Utility Bills for Nov., Dec., Jan., Feb. & March $1,250.00

Less (minus) the Base Load for those 5 months (5 times $90.00)		 $450.00
Annual Heating Cost (actual cost to heat with existing furnace) $800.00
Projected Energy Savings with new furnace:

  • Existing Furnace is 75 percent efficient
  • New Furnace is 95 percent efficient
  • 20 percent difference
Actual Savings is 20 percent divided by 95 percent which equals 21 percent
Savings per year with New Furnace ($800 current cost times 21 percent) $168.00

You can take it from here. To finish the calculation, simply obtain a quote from the heating salesperson for the cost of the new furnace. Then find out what your local bank is paying for their CD's. Or, use the rate of return you have been averaging on your stocks, bonds, or mutual funds. Do you make more money in interest each year than what you will save? I thought so!

Tips on Purchasing a New Air Conditioner

Efficiency Ratings - Watch Out!

Air conditioners are not all created equal. Some perform much better than others. They are rated using a numeric system referred to as a SEER rating. The higher this number, the better the machine is at converting electricity to cooling. SEER ratings of 12 to 14 are not uncommon.

However, if your air conditioner fails and you replace it, the new unit may not deliver this promised efficiency. The SEER rating is calculated using specific inside matched coils and air velocity. It is very complicated. In order for you to achieve the high efficiency performance promised on the yellow sticker, you may have to make modifications inside your house. Discuss this possibility with your heating/cooling contractor. If this person looks puzzled or says "Huhhhh?" when you bring this issue up, I suggest you call another contractor immediately.

Extended Warranties - Be Careful!

Just about every manufacturer of air conditioners offer extended warranty programs on parts and labor. However, you must be careful. Often a third party company handles this 'insurance'. That's what extended warranties really are. If you make a claim, it is no different than any other insurance loss. A manufacturer who backs its own warranties may be a better choice. Look before you sign!

Sizing Air Conditioning Equipment

Did your last air conditioner not work too well? Don't blame it on low efficiency! It may not have been sized properly! A new unit sized the same will perform poorly no matter how efficient it is! I covered this topic extensively in Builder Bulletin 31. You may wish to send in for it if you don't already have it. Heat gain calculations are a must! Make your contractor perform these important calculations! It is not uncommon in new subdivisions for all the houses of a similar size to have the same sized air conditioner. Did you know this is possibly a mistake? The size of the air conditioner is a function of many thing, including but not limited to, the number of occupants, the compass direction the house faces, the number of windows, and types and quantity of interior lighting. If you have made changes in your windows and have new Low-E glass, your cooling requirements may even be less! All of these things need to be calculated. Computer programs do it very quickly. Ask for proof of these calculations before you sign the contract for the new unit. Remember, the first guy could have goofed. If they simply put in the same sized unit as you have, it could be wrong.

Projected Energy Savings Table

This table says it all in my book. I have already shown you how to determine your real annual heating costs. See where your costs plug into the table in the first column. The second column shows you the savings the HVAC sales person tells you that you will achieve should you switch from a 70 to a 95 percent efficient furnace. They quickly say that within X years you get a payoff and start saving money. Not so fast! What happens if gas rates go down? The payoff takes longer. Well, gas rates doubled in some areas this past winter. What happens if they are cut in half and drop down to where they were last year? The payoff time could double or triple OR extend beyond the life of the furnace!

Annual
Heating Costs		 Savings Switching
from 70% to
a 95% Efficient
Gas Furnace		 Annual Savings if
Gas Costs DROP
10%		 Annual Savings if
Gas Costs DROP
20%		 Annual Savings if
Gas Costs DROP
30%
$1,200 $300 $270 $240 $210
$1,000 $250 $225 $200 $175
$800 $200 $190 $160 $140
$600 $150 $135 $120 $105
$400 $100 $90 $80 $70

Column B346

Water Saving Toilets Installation and Manufacturers

Posted on by Tim Carter

Almost three months ago, I was involved in an inspection. A homeowner hired me to look at some problems in their year old home. They had numerous complaints. The main reason I was there was to determine the source of water which was pouring through their brick walls.

At one point in our discussion, the homeowner indicated how frustrated he was with the whole house. He even mentioned his dislike of the toilets! Evidently, the toilets required more than one flush to rid themselves of waste products. The homeowner was dissatisfied. His problem was the inspiration for this column and bulletin!

Interesting Facts

Once I started doing my research, I found out some very interesting things. Older toilets used up to 5 gallons of water to flush. Not only that, they used additional water as the tank filled. Engineering requirements were at a minimal since there was so much water to do the job.

Further research found that the siphon and swirl action of toilets was an engineering innovation that helped to clean the bowl. Toilets made prior to WW II didn't have this feature. The water would rush straight down from the bowl rim. As a plumber, I have serviced many of these straight flush toilets.

Furthermore, the more water that sits in the bowl prior to a flush, the more energy is required to replace this water and get it moving towards your sewer or septic line.

Water Shortages

Water shortages in the mid 1980's in various parts of the country caused local officials to institute water conservation measures. It had long been known that toilets consumed the greatest amount of water each day in the average home. The pressure was on to reduce this water usage. Regional changes in the plumbing codes caused plumbing fixture companies to create low flush toilets. These dudes only were to use 1.6 gallons of water per flush. The manufacturers weren't prepared.

Big Changes

Two things immediately changed in the toilets: the quantity of the water in the bowl and the size of the trapway in the bowl were reduced. This led to two problems: the water 'spot' or surface area of water in the bowl shrank and solid matter was more prone to clogging in the bowl. The manufacturers had to play catch-up baseball. Their engineers started putting in some long nights.

The reduced amount of water per flush also brought another problem: less energy. 1.6 gallons of water dropped from the same height as 5 gallons can only perform about one-third the work. Yikes!!!!!

 

Click here to watch a video on how a toilet works.

 

Using Available Resources

Every plumbing system I'm aware of uses pressurized water lines to get the water to your faucets and toilets. A few engineers thought to use this available resource. They designed a simple tank which begins to fill with water. Soon the pressure of the waterline can force no additional water into the tank.

The tank now holds a certain volume of water (never more than 1.6 gallons) and pressurized air. As soon as the tank lever is pressed, the water is rapidly forced from the tank into the bowl. It has lots of energy. You have seen this happen at most commercial bathrooms. The result is dramatic. Water and waste are jettisoned into the sewage system.

Function vs. Form

The toilet company engineers have been working hard to match the performance of these pressure assist devices. They are making progress. We are now in the third generation of low flush, gravity 1.6 gallon toilets.

Both toilets have their pluses and minuses. The gravity flush toilets are quiet. They often have a sleek profile. The pressure assist toilets make a brief loud rush of noise. They get the job done. They are available in a wide range of designs, both one and two piece.

The good news is this. If you have a poorly performing 1st generation toilet, you can possibly retrofit a pressure tank to make it work properly.

Water conservation is important. Take your time to acquaint yourself with the two types. See which one will work best for you. Time will continue to supply us with better models.

Manufacturers of Water Saving Toilets

Because of building and plumbing code changes virtually every toilet manufacturer has a water saving toilet. Those that don't can't sell here in the USA! As you would expect, each manufacturer has several different models. Most manufacturers have gravity flush and pressure assist flush models. There are pros & cons to each one. If you want to be assured of great flushes, choose a pressure assist model. If you don't like the sound of a commercial toilet and want to gamble on sewer clogs, choose a gravity model. The pressure assist mechanism that virtually every toilet manufacturer uses is made by the same company. It is called Flushmate which is a division of the Sloan Valve Company. If you want some great literature on this pressure assist system, call 800-875-9116. Often you can retrofit an existing poor performing gravity toilet with the Flushmate pressure assist device. There may be no reason to buy an entirely new toilet! Consider calling the following manufacturers for fantastic literature & distributors in your area.

  • American Standard 800-524-9797 x100
  • Briggs Industries 813-878-0178
  • Eljer Plumbingware 800-42-ELJER
  • Gerber 708-675-6570
  • Kohler 414-457-4441
  • Mansfield 419-938-5211
  • Peerless Pottery Sales 866-457-5785
  • Universal Rundel 800-955-0316

Comparison Study

As you might expect there have been comparison studies done on these toilets. The best one I have seen was in the February 1995 issue of Consumer Reports. I encourage you to get a back issue or visit your local library. This particular study was extremely thorough.

Every imaginable thing that could be compared between manufacturers was compared. There is even a chart which illustrates possible payback periods based on water costs and usage. This study is a must see if you are going to replace all of your toilets or are building a new home.

Installing a Residential Toilet (A piece of Cake!)

A Creampuff

Toilets are intimidating plumbing fixtures. Just look inside one. What about the mysterious connection at the floor. Oh, don't forget, there is the supply tube you have to bend just so. Time to call the plumber? Not so fast! You can do it. Toilets are simple.

Connection Components

Residential toilets connect in almost all instances to a 3 inch drain line. At the floor level, this drain line converts to a toilet flange. This flange is basically a flair fitting that does two things: It provides a way to make a positive air/watertight seal and a way for you to bolt the toilet to the floor. The flange must be a certain distance away from the back wall if you want your toilet to fit snugly against the wall. The standard measurement for most toilets is 12 inches. If a floor joist is in your way, you may need to go 2 inches in either direction (10 or 14"). If so, you would need an a special toilet bowl. Beware, as these are usually much more expensive. If faced with this situation try what is called an offset flange. It may allow you to use a standard 12" toilet.

Click here to watch a toilet flange installation tip video.

 

A Dry Run

I always want my toilets to be level. As such, I uncrate the bowl (the tank and the bowl are two parts - unless you have a 1 piece toilet) and simply set it on the flange. Do not use the wax gasket at this point (don't worry, I'll explain)! Set your level across the bowl side to side and front to back. Using shims if necessary, make the bowl level. Gently lift the toilet off the flange keeping the shims in place.

The Wax Gasket & Bolts

A wax gasket is used to make a permanent seal between the flange and the bottom of the toilet. Without this gasket, sewer gas or wastewater would flood your house. They come two ways: with and without a plastic horn. The horn is a simple funnel which directs the wastewater into the flange. I always get a gasket with a horn. Place the gasket onto the flange pointing the horn down into the flange. Now install the new closet bolts that attach the toilet to the flange. Take the bowl, straddle the flange and guide the bowl onto the gasket and the bolts. Be careful!! You only get one chance. Use a friend to help guide you or to position the bolts. The toilet will hit the gasket and seem to rock. Gently push the toilet down to the shims trying to keep it reasonably level. Attach the necessary trim washers, brass washers, and tighten the nuts. Remember, you are tightening against glass so don't go crazy and overtighten!

The Tank

This is the easy part. Reading the toilet instructions you will see that two or thee bolts, rubber washers, and brass nuts hold the tank to the bowl. There is a foam washer that fits on the bottom of the tank to provide a seal to the bowl. This is easier than a kid's erector set. As you tighten the tank bolts, be sure to level it. It is a breeze.

Supply Tubes

If chrome supply tubes make you pull your hair out, why not use a PVC tube? They bend easily. In either case, once you have the tube attached loosely at the bottom of the toilet and in the valve, tighten the nut up at the tank first. Now, make sure that the tube is leaving the valve squarely. If the tube is at an angle, there is a very good chance you will have a pin hole leak once the compression nut is tightened around the o-ring. This connection is the toughest to make, so take your time. If all goes well, there will be no leaks. However, leaks at compression fitting sometimes show up hours or days later. Put a paper towel under it and check it periodically.

Grout

Finish the installation with tile grout. Fill the space between the toilet and floor with grout. Grout up to the shims. Let this grout dry, remove the shims and grout the remaining holes. Total toilet project completion time: 1 to 1.5 hours!

Column B120

Must Have Construction Photographs

Posted on by Tim Carter

Fifty Must Have Photographs

One day, I received a phone call from a homeowner who was frantic. It seems that water was leaking into her basement. I indicated that I could come right over. Upon my arrival, I determined the cause of the leak within a few minutes. Apparently the homeowner was hanging a picture on a wall. The nail they used punctured a water line leading to the second floor bathroom. The repair was simple. It could have been avoided had the homeowner been able to view photographs of what was behind the drywall.

The Facts

Do you know someone who has been involved in a dispute with a contractor? I do. This individual was awarded $5,000.00 in an arbitration dispute based on one photograph. Now that was a valuable photo! Cameras don't lie, people do. The arbitrator believed what he saw in the photograph.

Establishing an entire set of construction photographs is important. Early in a job, you may catch something on film that may turn out to be extremely important at a later date. Remember, no one plans to square off with their contractor in a dispute. Having the facts on film may be your saving grace.

Improved Versatility

Still photography works fine for certain things. However, sometimes you need an instant photo. Instant photography has come a long way. The quality of the images and the cameras themselves are really quite good. Instant photos allow you to verify that you did, in fact, get the shot. This can be very important for things that are in the process of being covered or buried.

Video cameras have even greater powers. You can couple a verbal description or sound of the shot with the moving picture. Zoom lenses allow for detailed closeup images. Construction activity comes to life on video tape. Saws, drills, backhoes, and any other mechanical device creates construction noise that will bring back memories when you play back the video.

Still photos with a conventional camera offer you the best opportunity to get crisp shots. Often you may need a closeup shot of a trim molding detail. Or, you may want a crisp photo of a chimney under construction. Instant photos and video shots are sometimes fuzzy. Use conventional photography for those really important photos.

Before & After Shots

It is always a delight to compare before shots and after shots of a project. All too often, however, people forget to take the before shots. Remember, these shots can't be reproduced! Once demolition commences, you are out of luck.

I always recommend that you take the before shots a week in advance of the start up of a job. Get these photos developed to insure that you are pleased with the lighting, focus, etc. Take photos from different angles. That single photo you see in a magazine may have been selected from over 15 or 20 shots! Don't be miserly with the film.

Using A Scale

If you are taking a closeup shot of an object, wall, etc., always use something in the photo to denote the size of what you are shooting. A coin, a ruler, yardstick, or some other common standard sized object will work well. I learned this trick in my geology classes. We always had to have a scale in the photo. If not, the photo got an instant "F".

The scale in the photograph allows you or an independent third party to accurately determine the size of what you are shooting. This can really be useful if photographing cracks, holes, or other defects.

Establish A Routine

The trick to successful construction photography is establishing a shooting routine. Take your cameras to the jobsite daily. Photograph as much activity as you can each day. Remember, a photo may reveal an important clue to a problem that develops years from now.

Consider using a camera that imprints the date and time on your film. These cameras will establish a time frame of job progress. This can be used to recreate a diary of daily or weekly activity.

Be sure to photograph every wall of the house just before it is insulated or covered with drywall or paneling. You want to know what is behind every wall. Trust me, it may save you from making an embarrassing call to a plumber.

50 Construction Photos Every Homeowner Should Have

The following list is a basis for your construction photography album. In actuality, I would like to see you have 200 or more photos of a job. Create a budget of $100 for photographing your next project. This will buy at least 300 photos at my local film developer. This investment will pay off at a later date. I guarantee it!

  1. Get a shot of footer form work before it is poured. This photo should show the thickness of the footer, and the steel rods which are a must!

  2. Shoot the footer after the forms are stripped. You can see the keyway in the top of the footer and any honeycombing on the sides.
  3. Try to get a shot of the foundation as it being constructed. Look for steel rods in the forms. Look for steel in concrete block work.
  4. Shoot the drain tile in various stages of installation.
  5. Shoot the foundation waterproofing.
  6. Get a shot of utility trenches. Include permanent landmarks to help locate trenches at a future date. Shoot quality of backfill. Note rocks in fill.
  7. Shoot closeup of mud sill treated lumber and sealer material on top of foundation.
  8. Shoot anchor bolts with nuts securely tightened.
  9. Take shoots of rough framing as house is built. Get closeups of typical joist hanger installations.
  10. Shoot photos of structural headers over windows and doors.
  11. Shoot photos of any and all structural connectors such as hold down anchors, hurricane clips, etc. Be sure to get closeups of nail heads.
  12. Shoot installation of vapor barriers beneath concrete work.
  13. Shoot photos of concrete finishers, especially if they are sprinkling water on a slab while they are finishing it! This photo(s) could be worth thousands or a new driveway, take your pick!
  14. Shoot pictures of all plumbing piping that will be covered by gravel or concrete. You need to know the layout of the pipes!
  15. Photograph all rough plumbing after it is completed.
  16. Photograph the wood ceilings and attic spaces. This will show bridging and truss bracing.
  17. Shoot all exterior downspout drain pipes. Shoot the trenches before the pipes are covered.
  18. Shoot all electric wire locations before insulation or drywall is installed.
  19. Photograph all other mechanical, electrical, etc. installations which will be covered.
  20. Shoot location of exterior underground wiring to post lamps or any other exterior fixture.
  21. Shoot inside photos of windows after installation. Note shims and nail locations.
  22. Shoot inside photos of exterior doors after installation. Note shims, nails, and presence of under door caulk or flashing.
  23. Shoot exterior before covering with brick or siding. Is air/water barrier in place? Is it taped properly?
  24. Shoot brick or stone as it is first laid.
  25. Get closeup shots of brick or stone flashings. Especially at corners and overlapping joints.
  26. Get a shot of mortar droppings behind first courses of brick or stone.
  27. Verify that masonry weep holes are NOT clogged.
  28. Shoot installation / spacing of brick & stone wall ties.
  29. Shoot numerous photos of chimney/fireplace construction.
  30. Photograph drywall BEFORE it is finished. Note number of nails/screws in each panel. Do walls and ceilings. Get a typical shot.
  31. Shoot the wood subfloor. Note nailing pattern.
  32. Shoot underside of wood floors. Look for nails that missed joists.
  33. Shoot insulation in walls.
  34. Get close up shots of insulation around windows and doors.
  35. Shoot vapor barrier installation.
  36. Photograph exterior painting process. Was trim wood & siding backprimed?
  37. Shoot driveway installation. Verify thickness of concrete or blacktop. Note steel or gravel thickness.
  38. Shoot photos of all wood blocking locations in bathrooms before drywall is installed. Blocks are for towel bars, TP holders, etc. They provide a solid area for fixture attachment.
  39. Shoot close ups of can or bottle labels of important products. May need this info at a later date.
  40. Shoot roof felt installation.
  41. Shoot shingle installation for pattern purposes.
  42. Shoot chimney and wall flashings.
  43. Shoot ceramic tile installation.
  44. Get photos of storage of materials on site. How is lumber covered / elevated off ground?
  45. Shoot photos of mortar bags. Need brand for matching purposes at a later date.
  46. Shoot brick labels on cubes. See above!
  47. Shoot weekly progress photos of job. Try to shoot from same vantage point.
  48. Shoot anything that you know will be hidden or covered by any building material.
  49. Photograph landscaping process at foundation.
  50. Photograph Happy Completion Party! (I hope!)

Column B108

Saving Trees During Construction

Posted on by Tim Carter

Ten years ago this month, Kathy and I purchased the wooded lot where we now live. It was an incredible find. A one acre lot with all underground utilities which backed up to an undeveloped portion of a city park. The lot also contained a variety of specimen trees: American beech, pin oak, ginko, tulip, fir, and maple. One tree, a pin oak, was huge, approximately 4 feet in diameter and about 80 feet tall. The challenge was to build the house and save the trees.

Several trees had to be cut down. One was a maple tree that was in the center of the dining room. Another, a cherry tree, was in the breakfast room. Several others were dangerously close to the foundation of the house. One of them was the giant oak tree.

Calling the Arborist

Kathy has the green thumb in our family. She has always been interested in plants and trees. Fortunately, she knew that we had to obtain the advice of a professional in order to save the trees. She called Dave Stang, a certified arborist who worked for one of the largest nurseries in the area. Dave said he would come to visit our site.

It is important to note that I had not yet started to build the house. All that I had done was to clear the lot of underbrush and cut down the two previously mentioned trees. I had laid out where the house foundation lines on the ground. This would allow Dave to see exactly where the house would be in relation to the trees.

Dave showed up and quickly sized up our situation. To make a long story short, he said that all of our trees could be saved, even the huge oak tree which was only 6 feet away from the laundry room foundation! The American beech tree, Dave said, was the most susceptible to damage. Any work beneath this tree which would compact the soil or cut its roots would spell disaster.

The Outcome

We followed Dave's advice. He said that it would take a minimum of 5 - 7 years to see if all of the trees would survive. To this date, all of the trees are alive and healthy! Kathy and Dave saved the trees. Without their advice, I'm sure that my construction activities would have killed several, if not all of the trees.

Construction + Trees = Trouble

Trees that grow in a forest are usually in perfect balance with their surroundings. This is especially true of the soil in which the tree is growing. The quality of the soil and its makeup are critical to the survival of a tree. Simply said, if you alter the soil beneath a tree, you risk temporary or permanent damage to a tree.

Soil, especially topsoil, contains a tremendous amount of air. You can demonstrate this by pouring water on some soil. If it readily soaks into the soil, there is lots of air in the soil. The water is flowing into the empty air spaces around the soil particles.

Trees need the oxygen located around the feeder roots in the topsoil. They use this oxygen in the chemical reactions necessary to pick up nutrients from the soil.

Construction activities can remove this air. The most common cause is compaction of the soil. You can easily compact topsoil by rolling over it with a heavy object. Heavy objects include dump trucks, concrete trucks, bulldozers, delivery trucks, and repeated compaction by "light" weight pickup trucks and cars.

The compaction of soil causes a secondary problem for trees. Compacted soil does not readily accept rain water. There simply is no where for the water to go. Remember, water enters soil that has air. Trees deprived of moisture can become weak. They are more susceptible to disease. It can lead to death.

Digging up & around Roots

Trenching activities in and around tree roots can cause massive problems. Tree roots serve two primary purposes. They extract food and water from the ground. This is taken to the leaves and turned into energy. This energy is then stored in the roots to be used the following spring to create new leaves and seeds. It's that simple. If you cut off the roots to a tree, you remove this life line.

Some trees can take more abuse to their roots than others. For example, in my case, Dave the certified arborist, told Kathy and I that our pin oak trees could have up to 50% of its roots disturbed. However, he said that our American beech tree could only withstand minimal root disturbance. I told him that I had planned to trench a gas line right under the tree disturbing a good 40 percent of the roots. Dave said that I would have plenty of beech firewood within 3 years!

Soil Chemistry

Certain trees like certain soils. Soils have different chemistry, that is, one soil may be more acidic or alkaline than another. Construction activities can radically affect the chemistry of soil.

Concrete and brick mortar are very alkaline. Every time a concrete truck delivers concrete to a jobsite it must be cleaned before it leaves the jobsite. The chute is cleaned as well as every other object that got concrete splashed on it. Bricklayers clean out their mortar mixers at the end of each day. If this washout water from either the concrete or mortar soaks into soil around a tree, it can kill the tree.

Fuel oil spills from bulldozers or other heavy equipment can affect the soil as well. Often, scrap materials from a job are buried on site. Drywall scrap is very alkaline. Paints and thinners can change soil chemistry. These things simply poison the soil.

Protective Measures

You might be surprised as to how much a mature tree is worth. Next time you talk with your house insurance agent ask him or her. Depending upon its species and age, an insurance company might pay you thousands of dollars if you loose a tree on your lot . Furthermore, you simply can't replace large trees. It pays to protect trees on a construction site. They add value and beauty to any building site.

Historically, only the trunks of trees were protected during construction. Heavy equipment might scar a trunk. Now we know that it is far more important to protect the root zone which lies underneath the drip line of the branches. There are many ways to do this.

All too many people simply install small flags or caution tape stapled to wooden stakes. Construction workers scoff at these flimsy barricades. You might consider the bright orange vinyl construction fencing for starters. If you really want to get serious, lightweight chain link fencing will offer the highest form of protection. Attach signs to the fencing indicating that the root zone is off limits.

The problem that you face is serious. Unless you communicate clearly and effectively that you want the trees protected, construction workers will simply drive beneath them. They will unload materials there, work in the shade of the tree, or do just about anything. If you want to save your trees you must become aggressive.

Penalties

The smart homeowners negotiate penalties in their construction contracts. These penalties are assessed to the builder or sub who violates a fenced in area. Your certified arborist can help you establish realistic penalties depending upon the tree which is being protected.

It is important to post signs on the construction fencing to notify all visitors to the sight of what will happen should they cross the fence. One concrete truck crossing the soil one time could possibly kill a tree.

The Certified Arborist

Let's see, what does a small ten foot high specimen red oak tree cost installed? Maybe $800 -1,000. It could take 25 -35 years for the tree to mature.

Knowing this, do you think a $1,000 consultation fee would be worth it to save a tree or numerous trees on your new home lot? I thought so. Who knows, maybe the consultation fee will be half that or less.

The point is this: you are talking pennies on the dollar. Hire a certified arborist before your builder shows up. He will develop a plan to help you save your trees. You will never regret spending this money.

Tree Associations

  • American Forests (AF)
    P.O. Box 2000
    Washington, D.C. 20013
    202-667-3300

  • International Society of Arboriculture (ISA)
    P.O. Box GG
    Savoy, Illinois 61874-9902
    217-355-9411
  • National Arbor Day Foundation (NADF)
    100 Arbor Avenue
    Nebraska City, Nebraska 68410
    402-474-5655
  • National Association of Homebuilders (NAHB)
    1201 15th Street NW
    Washington, D.C. 20005
    800-223-2665
  • Scenic America (SA)
    21 Dupont Circle NW
    Washington, D.C. 20086
    202-888-4300
  • World Forestry Center (WFC)
    4033 SW Canyon Road
    Portland, Oregon 97221
    503-228-1867

Publications concerning Trees and Construction

The following publications are available from the associations listed above. The initials following each publication should match the initials behind one of the associations listed above. Simply contact this association for costs (if any), availability, and ordering information.

A Reader for Global ReLeaf Natural Resource Experts AF

"Construction Damage to Trees", Journal of Arboriculture, Compendium Volume 1 ISA

Municipal Tree Ordinance Manual ISA

Building with Trees NADF

How to Save Trees During Construction Tree, City USA Bulletin #7 NADF

A Systematic Approach to Building with Trees #20 NADF

Trees and Parking Lots #24 NADF

Trenching and Tunneling near Trees NADF

How to Save Trees Resource Guide NAHB

Tree Conservation Ordinances SA

A Technical Guide to Urban and Community Forestry WFC

Videos concerning Trees and Construction

The following publications are available from the associations listed above. The initials following each publication should match the initials behind one of the associations listed above. Simply contact this association for costs (if any), availability, and ordering information.

Effects of Construction Damage to Trees in Wooded Areas ISA

Avoidance of Construction Damage to Trees on Wooded Lots ISA

Evaluating Trees for Hazard ISA

Trees are Treasure, Sustaining the Community Forest SA

 

The associations, publications, and videos listed on this page were compiled from an article that appeared in the January 1994 issue of Tree Care Industry. The article was titled Trees and Construction authored by Scott Cullen.

Column B93

Water Softener Salt Types

Posted on by Tim Carter

Have you ever stayed in a motel or hotel that softened their water? If so, you probably experienced that "soapy" feeling when you took a shower. In other words, you probably wasted 20 gallons of water trying to get the soap off your skin that had been rinsed off 5 minutes earlier. People accustomed to hard water showers often complain about the feeling of being soapy.

That is a small price to pay (even though all the soap is off) when you factor in all of the benefits of using soft water.

Hard vs. Soft

The water that comes out of the faucets in your home has lots of things in it. It very likely has some bacteria in it. It could also have dissolved gases in it such as oxygen or carbon dioxide. Dissolved gases are easy to see. Simply fill a clear glass with some hot tap water. Within a few moments you will see very tiny air bubbles cling to the inside surface of the glass.

The tap water also has, depending upon your water source, varying amounts of dissolved elements.

The dissolved elements most common in water seem to be calcium, magnesium, and iron. Often there are others. However, these three cause fits in many household plumbing systems.

Iron in water can cause stains on your clothes and plumbing fixtures. Calcium and magnesium cause the common white, hard water deposits on plumbing fixtures. These same deposits can form on the insides of pipes, boilers, hot water heaters, and plumbing fixtures.

The quantity of dissolved elements is not same for given sources of water. The water from a well in the country may have 5 times the dissolved minerals than water from a river or stream.

You measure water hardness by determining the amount of dissolved elements in a gallon of water. This measurement is usually referred to as grains, one grain equaling 1/7000th of a pound. The weight of one grain equals that of a singular standard grain of wheat. Evidently, it takes approximately 7,000 grains of wheat to equal a pound.

The Big Switch

The Soviets, back in the early 1900's, figured out that you could make hard water soft. They did this through a simple substitution. It seems that certain other chemical elements will readily take the place of calcium and magnesium. These being sodium and potassium. They will also substitute for iron. It is not quite unlike some athletic games.

In a nutshell, hard water enters a tank which contains small resin beads. The surface of the beads contains the sodium and/or potassium. As the hard water (containing the calcium and magnesium) passes by the beads, the sodium jumps in. Well, this forces the calcium and magnesium to jump onto the beads. BINGO, the hard water becomes soft. Eventually, the beads fill up with calcium and magnesium.

Through a regeneration process, the calcium and magnesium are flushed from the tank. During this process, the substitution process occurs again. Sodium, from a separate brine tank is injected into the resin bead tank. At this point, the tank is ready to start softening water again.

The Sodium Salts

Based upon the process I just described, you can see that you need to periodically "feed" your water softener with salt (sodium and or potassium). If you have purchased salt for a softener, you may have noticed that there are different kinds of salt.

There are basically three different types of salt that you can purchase for a water softener. While the purity of the different salts is similar, there are significant differences.

The least pure salt that you can purchase is standard rock salt. This is salt which is simply mined from underground deposits and crushed. It receives absolutely no processing. The highest grade of rock salt is found in mines in the state of Louisiana. There are other salt mines in the USA, however the salt is less pure.

The second type of salt you can purchase is solar salt. This salt has a higher purity than common rock salt. It is produced by evaporating sea water. This is done by pumping sea water into very shallow ponds. The sun and wind rapidly evaporate the water leaving salt behind. They continue this process for about one year until a thick layer of very pure salt has formed. The salt is scraped from the pond areas, washed, and then set out into the sun again to dry. It is then ready for crushing and packaging.

The highest quality water softening salt is a processed salt which comes in the form of processed pellets. This salt goes through a purification to remove almost all impurities. Furthermore, some brands are available with extra ingredients. These ingredients work inside the exchange tank of your water softener to cleanse and protect the resin beads. If the resin beads become fouled with impurities, they do not perform very well. It is a good idea to invest the extra money to purchase the salt which contains the resin cleansing chemicals.

At the very least, possibly alternate between the different salts, so that every other bag, you use the salt which contains the cleansing chemicals.

Pumping Iron

Many people who have wells pump iron each and every day, that is, they pump water containing high amounts of iron into their houses each day. This iron can stain fixtures and clothes, give the water a metallic taste, and even cause the water to have a harsh odor.

The salt manufacturers have a special salt that not only softens water but will help to remove massive quantities of iron from the water. It is a good idea to remove this iron, as it can damage the resin beads in your water softener.

Low Sodium Diets

There is a myth circulating that soft water contains massive quantities of salt. People on low sodium diets shy away from soft water. If you are such a person, have another talk with your doctor. Ask him (her) to review the facts. For example, if you have average hard water, an 8 ounce glass of water may only contain 35 milligrams of sodium. To put that in perspective, a 1 ounce serving (that's small, about one link!) of pork sausage has over 400 milligrams of salt. Now, when was the last time you ate just one sausage link at a breakfast. If you drank a half-gallon of soft water, you would have consumed 360 milligrams.

Is there an alternative? Yes! You can purchase a special salt for your softener. It doesn't contain sodium. It contains potassium. The salt is called potassium chloride. It usually is available from feed mill stores or other stores that specialize in water softening salts. It does the same job in softening water, but without the presence of sodium.

You will pay slightly more for this product. However, if you are concerned about your health, how can you put a price tag on this substitute?

Soft Water and Soap

Do you remember the last time you washed a brand new car? Did you let it air dry? Was it rinsed with hard water? If so, I'll bet you ended up with water spots on the hood. Those spots were the calcium and magnesium in the water. It is the same process that causes stalactites and stalagmites to grow in caves.

This same thing happens in your clothes. When you dry your clothes, the calcium and magnesium stay behind. After a period of time, colors fade because the dyes are simply coated with these elements. The dye hasn't washed away. White clothes turn dingy and an off shade of light grey. All because of hard water deposits.

What's more, hard water interferes with the cleaning action of soaps. Soap simply doesn't work well in hard water. You may find yourself using more soap than necessary to clean something.

Ask anyone who uses a water softener. They will tell you that they use small amounts of soap to clean themselves and everything else in their house. What's more, just about everything washed and rinsed with soft water looks good. Give water softeners serious consideration in your house.

Water Softening Salt Purity

The best water softening salt would be one that 100% pure sodium chloride. This means that there is absolutely nothing else being introduced into your softener. Well, it's almost impossible to get 100% pure sodium chloride. But guess what? You can get pretty darn close!

The lowest grade of water softening salt is often referred to as rock salt or salt crystals. Remember, this is the salt which is derived from underground mines. It usually contains 98.9% sodium chloride! The other 1.1% contains impurities.

The next highest grade of salt is solar salt, that being derived by evaporating seawater. This produces salt which is just slightly better. The sodium chloride content of solar salts is usually 99% or 99.2%. That's a little better, however there are still impurities.

The processed salts offer the highest purity available. They are very nearly pure. Just about each salt supplier boasts a purity of 99.8% for their processed salts.

The potassium chloride substitute salt has a purity of 99.1%

Column B89/p>

Carpet Types and Characteristics

Posted on by Tim Carter

Full Disclosure Carpet Manufacturers Harmful Household Cleaners

Carpet ..... What a great invention! Have you ever had the pleasure of falling asleep on a soft piece of carpeting? How about the ability of carpet to set the 'mood' of a room? There is no doubt in my mind that carpeting, when chosen with patience and care can become an asset to a home.

Oooooooooops! Did I mention something about patience and choosing? Carpet shopping in the past required lots of patience, as it always seemed like the carpet showrooms were smoky and filled with mirrors. Your decision was often based upon look and feel. There was little crisp, definitive information available to assist you in making an informed purchase.

Trust

I am a firm believer in the philosophy that people make their buying decisions based upon trust. Sure, every now and then you might be attracted by low price. But, an informed buyer 'trusts' that an item will perform, suit his/her needs, last, etc. before handing over the money. Buying carpet should be no different, especially since the purchase may involve a large sum of money.

Give Me The Facts

Carpet buying is tough. Take the materials used to make carpet: nylon, polyester, olefin, and wool. Are all great fibers. Each has distinctive positive qualities. However, these fabrics can be made into a carpet that performs poorly. It can depend upon how the material is used to make the carpet and where the carpet will be used.

Different areas of your home receive different amounts of traffic. Bedrooms traditionally receive much less traffic than a family room. Certain carpets will perform well in each room. However, how do you determine what carpet and fiber will perform well without knowing the true facts about each piece and type of carpet?

Things You Should Know

To make an intelligent decision when purchasing carpet, you need to know about things such as carpet pile, fiber type, face weight of fibers (measured in ounces per square yard), fiber density (how many fibers in a given area), twist and tuft bind, and durability rating. Without comparing these features, you will be basing your carpet purchase on hope. That's a dangerous thing to do.

Fibers

We already talked about the four primary fibers used in carpeting. Nylon probably is the most widely used fiber in modern carpets. It is tough and resilient. Nylon is also very soil resistant.

Polyester fibers are the softest available. It accepts coloration very well, which explains why many vibrant colored carpets are made using polyester.

Olefin fibers is a very strong fiber. It is extremely stain resistant, as often the color dyes are actually heated and fused into the actual fiber.

Wool is a high cost natural fiber that accepts colors well. It stains more readily. Wool carpeting is considered by some people to be the most luxurious carpeting available.

Face Weight

Face weight is quite simple. It simply is a factual measurement of how many ounces of fiber are present in each square yard of carpet. For the most part, common sense tells you that the more weight, the more carpet you are receiving. Sub standard carpet manufacturers can 'fluff' a carpet to make it look like it has many ounces of fiber. The best way to measure is not look, but by actual weight.

Fiber Density

Density is simply a measurement of how close one fiber is next to another fiber. Think of a balding person like me. The density of my hair is not remotely close to what it was 15 years ago. My wife constantly reminds me of this every time she cuts my hair! The greater the density, the better, as your carpet should withstand a greater amount of abuse.

Twist / Tuft Bind

If you look very closely at a carpet, you will notice that the fibers are twisted. Some carpet fibers are twisted more than others. This twist is usually measured by seeing how many times in 1 inch the fiber makes a full 360 degree turn. Four or more twists per inch is good.

Tuft bind is a measurement used for carpets that are loop pile carpets. These carpets take the fibers and tie them into the backing of the carpet. You walk on the tops of the loops. Well, if the fibers aren't tightly tied into the backing, they will pull out, similar to a snag in a piece of fabric. So, look for a carpet that has the highest tuft bind strength, especially if you have animals with claws!

Durability

"How long do you think this carpet will last in my house?" How many millions of times do you think this question has been asked in carpet showrooms? How could it be definitively answered? In all fairness to carpet salespeople, they can't predict, or know, how you will treat your carpet.

But, what if a carpet is subjected to an actual wear test where real humanoids walk on the carpet? Believe it or not this happens! My guess is that there are no mall walkers to contend with in Dalton, Georgia, as they are all getting paid to walk on carpets in test centers.

What happens is that a carpet sample is put down and subjected to exactly 20,000 steps (who counts???). Then the walked on carpet is compared to an identical piece of the same carpet which was not walked on. The examiners look at shedding, matting, crushing, and overall appearance. After these things are measured according to industry standards, a rating is assigned. The rating scale is from 1 to 5, 5 being perfect. As you might imagine, no carpet made yet has received a 5. If that happens, that carpet company will go out of business, the same as the company that made light bulbs that lasted 50 years (there actually was such a company!).

Seriously, no carpet, after 20,000 steps, will look exactly like a piece not walked on. That's why a 5 rating is impossible.

Carpets that are rated 2.5 and above should provide normal durability, while carpets rated at 4.5 or higher can have tanks driven across them. 🙂

Padding

Padding is very much misunderstood. Many people think that thicker is better. No way! A thin, firm pad is the best. In fact, manufacturers have very strict guidelines with respect to padding. Never install a pad thicker than 7/16 of an inch.

Thick pads allow the backing of a carpet to flex too much. This can lead to product failure.

Carpet selection can be very easy when you look for a carpet that carefully measures all of the things we have talked about. If the information we discussed is not printed on the back of a carpet sample, keep shopping!

Full Disclosure Carpet Manufacturers

At the time of publication of this column, I could locate only one manufacturer who markets their products using a full disclosure policy. This has to be a first with respect to my columns, as normally I can list five or more manufacturers in a product class. My research indicated that many of the other major carpet companies are waiting to see if this method of selling will work. Can you believe that? What do you think? Don't you feel that you would be more willing to buy if you had the facts? My guess is that within 6 - 9 months the other carpet manufacturers will follow suit.

Shaw Industries, Inc. Dalton, Georgia 30722, 800-441-7429, www.shawfloors.com

Visit their web site or call them and ask for How to Make Sense Out of Carpet. It is a great pamphlet that will help you select carpet. You can also ask to be connected to Shaw's technical department in the event you need other literature or have specific questions concerning carpet. Good luck with your purchase!

Common Household Cleaners and Products that can Damage Carpeting

People often freak out when something is spilled on carpet. And well they should! Certain common household liquids can in fact harm a carpet. The worse thing you can do is try to clean a spill without knowing how or what to do.

You can obtain some fantastic carpet care literature from the Carpet and Rug Institute (www.carpet-rug.org). Call them at 706-278-3176. Ask for two pamphlets in particular. Hopefully, they will send them to you at no charge. Ask for: Carpet and Rug Care Guide and Carpet Spot Removal Guide. Both of these are fine pamphlets that will come in handy one day. Additional information can be found on their web site. Check it out.

Harmful Products

Ever seen those horror movies where someone gets dumped into a vat of acid and dissolves? Well, neither have I, but I have heard about it. Strong acids can dissolve things, weak acids can also damage things but not always to the same extent. Many foods, drinks, and liquids contain acids. For example, citrus fruits and drinks contain citric acid. Vinegar is a weak acetic acid. Certain toilet bowl cleaners contain hydrochloric acid. The list goes on and on. Acids can hurt carpeting. They can alter the color of your carpet very quickly.

Medications also can contain harmful chemicals. Take acne medication as an example. Some acne products contain benzoyl peroxide. This chemical is the opposite of acid, as it is a strong oxidizing agent. It can destroy carpet dyes!

Common ordinary bleach can hurt your carpet. Most people would make this connection, as bleach 'whitens' clothes. Well, anyone who has used it on a new pair of jeans knows that it also rapidly removes color! Guess what has bleach in it? Most swimming pool water! Ever walked into a house with a dripping bathing suit? Hmmmmmmmm, bet you'll think twice about doing that again.

Insecticides contain chemicals that can actually alter the dyes in carpets and change your carpet colors. Has an extermination company ever sprayed your house for some insect? Think again before letting them spray the baseboards near your carpeting. If they must, make them sign a paper stating that they will replace your soon to be two toned carpet with the racing stripe!

Are you a plant lover like my wife? Do you ever fertilize your indoor plants? Better not spill that water or plant food onto your carpet! These drippings or spills can oxidize your carpet. You will have stains that are impossible to remove in most cases.

Do you use oven cleaner or drain cleaners? These products contain highly caustic chemicals that react just like acid does on your carpet. Watch out!

Urine from animals contains uric acid. Do I have to say more?

People or animals that get sick on carpet can cause huge problems. The regurgitated food is often accompanied by gastric juices from your stomach. Guess what is in that juice? Yep, you're right, hydrochloric acid. This is a strong acid that, in a different form, is sometimes used to clean bricks. Think of what it does to your carpet.

Removing Stains

I could write a book about removing carpet stains. But why? The Carpet and Rug Institute has done a great job! Besides, they are the experts. Call immediately and order the two pamphlets I spoke of. They are unbelievable and will come in handy.

A quick word of advice: Read the pamphlets when you get them. Do not wait until a spill happens! You need to act fast when a spill occurs. Time is of the essence. You will fumble through the pamphlet wasting valuable time.

Column B83